fot
[Top] [All Lists]

Fwd: triumphs@autox.team.net digest #1292 Wed Sep 16 02:35:01 MDT 1998

To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Fwd: triumphs@autox.team.net digest #1292 Wed Sep 16 02:35:01 MDT 1998
From: TR3197@aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 15:37:08 EDT
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--part0_905974628_boundary
Content-ID: <0_905974628@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

 

--part0_905974628_boundary
Content-ID: <0_905974628@inet_out.mail.autox.team.net.2>
Content-type: message/rfc822
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
Content-disposition: inline

Return-Path: <owner-triumphs@autox.team.net>
Received: from  rly-zb01.mx.aol.com (rly-zb01.mail.aol.com [172.31.41.1]) by
        air-zb02.mail.aol.com (v49.1) with SMTP; Wed, 16 Sep 1998 06:21:21
        -0400
Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu (triumph.cs.utah.edu [155.99.188.52])
          by rly-zb01.mx.aol.com (8.8.8/8.8.5/AOL-4.0.0)
          with ESMTP id FAA16830;
          Wed, 16 Sep 1998 05:10:47 -0400 (EDT)
Received: (from mjb@localhost) by triumph.cs.utah.edu (8.8.8/) id CAA18204;
        Wed, 16 Sep 1998 02:35:01 -0600 (MDT)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 02:35:01 -0600 (MDT)
Message-Id: <199809160835.CAA18204@triumph.cs.utah.edu>
From: triumphs-owner@autox.team.net
Reply-to: triumphs-owner@autox.team.net
Errors-to: triumphs-owner@autox.team.net
Subject: triumphs@autox.team.net digest #1292 Wed Sep 16 02:35:01 MDT 1998
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: multipart/mixed;
        boundary="part1_905974628_boundary"

--part1_905974628_boundary
Content-ID: <0_905974628@inet_out.mail.autox.team.net.3>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

[Only the first 2K of this message is displayed, as it is too long to view
through AOL. The entire message has been turned into a text attachment, which
you can retrieve by selecting Download. Once downloaded, open it with a word
processor or text editor for reading.]


triumphs-digest #1292                Wed Sep 16 02:35:01 MDT 1998

       Collection of mail from triumphs@autox.team.net list.

           Mark J. Bradakis, Digest Coordinator


Send submissions to triumphs@autox.team.net
Send requests to majordomo@autox.team.net

e.g in the BODY of a message to majordomo@autox.team.net put
unsubscribe triumphs-digest

Articles sent to the triumphs-owner and majordomo address and address
changes sent to the whole list will be tossed into the bit bucket.

Contents:

  Help with SUs on TR4A (Cliff Hansen)
  Re: TR3 gauges wanted (KTRIUMPH)
  SPIT: Cylinder Heads (Bill and Sal Birney)
  Re: British Car Day ("Keith R. Stewart")
  Re: TR4/4A differences (ArthurK101)
  TR6 Antenna Connection ("Mr. Michael D. Fatsi")
  RE: Help with SUs on TR4A ("Bob Hutton")
  Insurance thanks (Troy Johnson)
  TR3 or TR3A? (Cliff Pike)
  Re: TR3 gauges wanted (Malcolm Walker)
  Re: Duct Tape, very non-TR ("\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti")
  Re: TR3 or TR3A? (Chip Old)
  TR6 DIFF (john_mcmaster)
  TR 6 Rear Sway Bar (john_mcmaster)
  Re: thanks and more info ("James H. Davis, Jr.")
  Orange TR3 and Web Site Update (Henry Frye)
  TR6 Woes Cont'd (Trmgafun)
  re: 4/4A differences (Chris Kantarjiev)
  Re: TR4/4A differences ("Peter J. Thomas")
  Re: TR6 Woes Cont'd (Michael Ferguson)
  Re: TR6 Bonnet Latch Adjustment (Joseph Sholtes)
  RE: TR4/4A Differences (Tony Rhodes)
  Re: TR4 boot lid lettering (Joseph Sholtes)
  Parts FS (John Richardson)
  Orange TR-3 ("Sumner Weisman")
  Re: TR3 or TR3A? (George Richardson)
  Re: Motor in the boot (DANMAS)
  Stuck TR4 visors!! (Malcolm Walker)
  Re: Orange TR3 and Web Site Update (Joseph Sholtes)
  Re: Manchester Show ("Sumner Weisman")
  Re: e mail opinions (Alan Myers)
  Re: TR6 rear anti-sway bar (Alan Myers)
  Re: TR3 or TR3A? (KTRIUMPH)
  Re: TR4/4A differences (ArthurK101)
  Re: TR4 boot lid lettering (ArthurK101)
  Re: TR4/4A Differences (ArthurK101)
  Re: TR4 

--part1_905974628_boundary
Content-ID: <0_905974628@inet_out.mail.autox.team.net.4>
Content-type: text/plain;
        name="triumphs.txt"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
Content-disposition: inline


triumphs-digest #1292                Wed Sep 16 02:35:01 MDT 1998

       Collection of mail from triumphs@autox.team.net list.

           Mark J. Bradakis, Digest Coordinator


Send submissions to triumphs@autox.team.net
Send requests to majordomo@autox.team.net

e.g in the BODY of a message to majordomo@autox.team.net put
unsubscribe triumphs-digest

Articles sent to the triumphs-owner and majordomo address and address
changes sent to the whole list will be tossed into the bit bucket.

Contents:

  Help with SUs on TR4A (Cliff Hansen)
  Re: TR3 gauges wanted (KTRIUMPH)
  SPIT: Cylinder Heads (Bill and Sal Birney)
  Re: British Car Day ("Keith R. Stewart")
  Re: TR4/4A differences (ArthurK101)
  TR6 Antenna Connection ("Mr. Michael D. Fatsi")
  RE: Help with SUs on TR4A ("Bob Hutton")
  Insurance thanks (Troy Johnson)
  TR3 or TR3A? (Cliff Pike)
  Re: TR3 gauges wanted (Malcolm Walker)
  Re: Duct Tape, very non-TR ("\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti")
  Re: TR3 or TR3A? (Chip Old)
  TR6 DIFF (john_mcmaster)
  TR 6 Rear Sway Bar (john_mcmaster)
  Re: thanks and more info ("James H. Davis, Jr.")
  Orange TR3 and Web Site Update (Henry Frye)
  TR6 Woes Cont'd (Trmgafun)
  re: 4/4A differences (Chris Kantarjiev)
  Re: TR4/4A differences ("Peter J. Thomas")
  Re: TR6 Woes Cont'd (Michael Ferguson)
  Re: TR6 Bonnet Latch Adjustment (Joseph Sholtes)
  RE: TR4/4A Differences (Tony Rhodes)
  Re: TR4 boot lid lettering (Joseph Sholtes)
  Parts FS (John Richardson)
  Orange TR-3 ("Sumner Weisman")
  Re: TR3 or TR3A? (George Richardson)
  Re: Motor in the boot (DANMAS)
  Stuck TR4 visors!! (Malcolm Walker)
  Re: Orange TR3 and Web Site Update (Joseph Sholtes)
  Re: Manchester Show ("Sumner Weisman")
  Re: e mail opinions (Alan Myers)
  Re: TR6 rear anti-sway bar (Alan Myers)
  Re: TR3 or TR3A? (KTRIUMPH)
  Re: TR4/4A differences (ArthurK101)
  Re: TR4 boot lid lettering (ArthurK101)
  Re: TR4/4A Differences (ArthurK101)
  Re: TR4 boot lid lettering ("Brad Kahler")
  Re: TR6 Woes Cont'd (KTRIUMPH)
  Re: Manchester Show (KTRIUMPH)
  Frame Question ("Patrick Bitton")
  Re: Spitfire and TR7 wheels ("unicorn7")
  Thrust washers ("Brad Kahler")
  TR3 / TR4 lug nuts and wheel studs ("Brad Kahler")
  Leon's incredible journey begins (DANMAS)
  Re: TR3 / TR4 lug nuts and wheel studs (Malcolm Walker)
  Bronte show (Eileen Kramer)
  RE: Insurance Questions ("Musson, Carl")
  Needed: TR7 Headlight ("Andy T Harrison")


FTP archives available on ftp.team.net
WWW access through http://www.team.net/


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 18:16:10 -0400
From: Cliff Hansen <chansen@exis.net>
Subject: Help with SUs on TR4A


OK I fancied myself a home-taught expert on these carbs,
but now I'm puzzled.

Where I'm at: Ignition working well and timing set.
Valves adjusted.  Carbs have about 2000 miles on new throttle
shafts.   The engine idles a little bumpy at 700, but runs smooth 
at 1200 rpm or higher.


After balancing with a Unisyn and setting the mixture the old
way (lifting the piston and listening), I have noticed that the
front piston lifts noticeably more than the rear when maintaining
3000 rpm.  The front is up about 1/2", the rear is about 1/8" lower.

My question: is there anything here to worry about?  What does
it indicate about my engine's health?  What adjustment is
needed (if any)?

Thansk for the help.

FWIW here's what I learned from my last questions:

1) Original floats are no longer available.  Replacement floats are
all one piece plastic made by Rover; they do not have a copper arm
that you bend to adjust float level.  Instead, you need to put copper
washers under the valve housing to set the right float level.  I've
done this.

2) When you switch to heavier dashpot oil, you will effectively
richen your mixture.  I switched from ATF to 10-30 about a week
ago.  During the last week, I noticed the car was much harder to
keep running when cold, but accelerated more smoothly when
warm.  I have some burbling when decelerating, indicating
unburned fuel in the exhaust.  Also, plugs that were clean are 
now a little sooty.  I have found and will try the 3-1 blue can oil
(20 weight equivalent, made for electric motors.)


Cliff Hansen
chansen@exis.net
1966 TR-4A CTC 64615L


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 18:18:03 EDT
From: KTRIUMPH@aol.com
Subject: Re: TR3 gauges wanted


In a message dated 98-09-15 16:42:50 EDT, you write:

<< It's starting to bother me that the amp and water temperature gauges 
 are not the original Jaeger units that would match the rest of the 
 instruments.  Does anyone have either or both of these units laying 
 around?  Especially looking for the water temperature.  The amp gauge 
 is a lucas.  The needle jumps all over the place anytime anything 
 electrical occurs, I really can't tell anything about the charging 
 system from this lucas gauge, so it has some appeal.  The water 
 temperature gauge appears to be a US made unit that just happens to 
 fit in, reads very accurately, brightly lit.  It's annoying.  Maybe I 
 can find a lucas temperature gauge, more authentic and totally 
 useless?
 
 My TR3 is a 59, TS52320L if that is helpful in matching gauges. 
 
 Thanks,
 
 Geezer
 
  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Geeze
I presume your temp gauge is not original capillary type? All TR3's came =
with
a rather antiquated temp guage - a flexible tube went from the back of th=
e
gauge, thru the firewall, and into the thermostat housing. It is not elec=
tric.
If your car does have this sort of gauge, don't be too upset - the origin=
al
types are getting rather rare and pricey. I believe these animals are all
Jaegers.
The ammeter is gonna jump around no matter what type of gauge. It fluctua=
tes
all over with turn signals, brake lights, etc. At constant speed tho' (sa=
y
3000 rpm) it should be pretty stable. If not you may have some other grem=
lins
to deal with.

Ken Nuelle
58 TR3A
62 TR3B
64 TR4


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 08:29:02 +1000
From: Bill and Sal Birney <birneybs@onaustralia.com.au>
Subject: SPIT: Cylinder Heads


Barry, Joe, Bill

Thanks for the replies. You are all with me on this one (the guy is
claiming different combustion chamber shapes, not just vlve sizes), so I'=
ll
just have to see what he says about the motor. I have a feeling that he m=
ay
not really be interested in buying in, and want's an 'easy way out'.

Thanks again for the replies, and let the list live on




Bill and Sal Birney
Melbourne, Australia

'67 Spitfire  MkII - Under resto
'70 GT6+ (RHD)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 18:42:31 -0400
From: "Keith R. Stewart" <kstewart@wwdc.com>
Subject: Re: British Car Day


Right on Vic...I'll go you one better...I'll be there with Joe Curry's
decals on my wheel hubs AND Spitfire and Triumphs MailList decals on my
windshield! BTW, I'm not sure about it being the largest show in North
America, but I think I once saw something about it being the largest ONE
DAY car show in North America...regardless, it is a great show...see you
there <G>.

Keith Stewart

- ----------
> From: Vic Whitmore <vicwhit@idirect.com>
> To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>; Spitfires Maillist
<spitfires@autox.team.net>
> Subject: British Car Day
> Date: Tuesday, September 15, 1998 9:24 AM
> 
> For all the listers in reach of the Toronto area, the biggest British c=
ar
show
> (possibly in North America) happens this weekend. Last year's event dre=
w
over
> 1000 LBCs of all descriptions. What a sight!
> 
> The Toronto Triumph Club is hosting the British Car Day on Sunday
September 20
> at the Bronte Creek Provincial Park. The park is located on the north
side of
> the Queen Elizabeth Way between Oakville and Burlington (follow the
signs). For
> those not familiar with these towns, it is midway between Toronto and
Hamilton.
> 
> I'll be there with the "reddest" Spit and will be sporting Joe Curry's
decals on
> my wheel caps. Look forward to seeing you there.
> 
> Vic Whitmore
> 76 Spitfire
> Thornhill, Ontario

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 18:38:33 EDT
From: ArthurK101@aol.com
Subject: Re: TR4/4A differences


Chris, I was only trying to gently set him straight about OBVIOUS differe=
nces.
You are correct in some of what you say.  However: 

In a message dated 98-09-15 16:43:51 EDT, you write:

> I think the six blade fan was still an option on the 4A. Here on the ea=
st 
> coast, a 
>  rare one at that. If anyone has one for sale, contact me immediately. =
;>) 

My reference shows the 6 bladed fan as standard on the TR4A.  That refere=
nce
might be wrong for the early TR4A's.  We know how Triumph liked to use up
those "old parts."

>I don't know 
>  about the rad "size". No 4a rads have the long neck or hole for the cr=
ank. 

The long neck and hole for the crank disappeared about the middle of the =
TR4
run.

> 4A's switched 
>  back to SU's at some HOTLY debated point... (CTC67XXXX ?)

Right.  But it is not so "HOTLY debated."  My reference shows CT 62191.
  
>  Did anyone mention the parking brake? It moved to the center console.

Correct as is the fact that the center console was new.  No console was i=
n
TR4's.

> the totally new different, chassis frame. I think two speed wipers beca=
me
standard. 83mm (2000cc) liners were no longer an option on the 4A. 

Right on all that.

>All 4A dashes were wood. This was optional on 4's. 

Nope.  Wood dash was standard on the last approx. (my interpolation) 10,0=
00
TR4's.  It became standard in early '64 for US export cars.

>  Convertible tops and hardware are way different. 4A's have a "safety" =
latch
> on the "hood catch".

True.

> I met a guy who swears that that the original leather in his 4A is 
> ALL leather, not just the seat faces. Mine aren't. Seats different. 

Correct. I don't know about the leather BUT the seats LOOK different.
Actually they are the same frames.

> Door locks in handles, not  separate. 

TR4 locks were in the handle.

>The center dash support is now a vinyl covered console rather than 
> simply painted.  4A's are negative earth. Alt was option on 4A. (Never =
seen
one--
> original one with external regulator anway. )

True.

> Different jack. No holes in floor for old style jack. 

True.  Although the holes are there if you look carefully.  The floor pan=
s are
the same is why.

>  Early 4A's had "twin" exhaust. Late4a's have "transverse" single muffl=
er. (
> not mine though, hee hee.)

Agree.

>  Different car. Everything but the engine and body tub. 

I don't agree with that broad a statement.  Many differences but MANY
similarities.  Also remember I am constantly telling the list that the ca=
rs
are not the same.
  
>  Chris Lillja
>  Spit MkIV
>  Norton Commando
>  TR4A   << snip >>

No hassle here.  I'm just trying to keep the record straight.  Regards.

Art

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 18:45:33 -0400
From: "Mr. Michael D. Fatsi" <mdfatsi@erols.com>
Subject: TR6 Antenna Connection


Dave:=09

To get to the antenna wire you need to remove the carpeted kick panel,
this will either be screwed and or glued in. There should be a antenna
hole in the inner front fender (wing). You can get to the wire through
this hole with your finger a coat hanger, or any thing else you can
stick in the hole. Then pull the wire through the hole and connect it to
your radio. Good Luck.
 -MF

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 08:55:06 +1000
From: "Bob Hutton" <bob@calc.com.au>
Subject: RE: Help with SUs on TR4A

Cliff,
It's possible that there is a difference in the piston spring tensions, t=
he
front one being weaker than the rear one. Might pay to buy two new spring=
s.

Regards,
Bob Hutton

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 18:16:47 -0700
From: Troy Johnson <clancy@softdisk.com>
Subject: Insurance thanks


Just wanted to say thanks to those who responded to my request for
insurance info. I will have at least 4 leads to research because you
wonderful people on this list took the time to send a note with a name
or a phone number.......Thanks a bunch, you guys!!!!!

Troy Johnson
78 Spitfire


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 19:26:52 -0400
From: Cliff Pike <cpike@mgl.ca>
Subject: TR3 or TR3A?


I have just bought a TR3 for restoration, and have received differing
opinions as to whether it is a TR3 or a TR3A. It is a large mouth, with
overdrive and SU carbs. The commission number is TS30767. Can anyone
help me determine what it is?
Cliff
Ontario
59TR3  TS30767    (under restoration)
66 Spitfire4 MKII  FC85K63  (Driver)
64 Spitfire4  ( Parts)  ( May be restored if anyone's interested)

- --
..........Come visit us at  http://www.mgl.ca/~cpike/home1.htm



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 16:25:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Malcolm Walker <walker05@camosun.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: TR3 gauges wanted


On Tue, 15 Sep 1998, Coday Family wrote:

> It's starting to bother me that the amp and water temperature gauges 
> are not the original Jaeger units that would match the rest of the 
> instruments.  Does anyone have either or both of these units laying 
> around?  Especially looking for the water temperature.  The amp gauge 
> is a lucas.  The needle jumps all over the place anytime anything 
> electrical occurs, I really can't tell anything about the charging 
> system from this lucas gauge, so it has some appeal.  The water 

For all I know, all TRs with an ammeter use a Lucas unit.  My car, which
appears to have original gauges, sports a Lucas ammeter.  The rest are
Jaeger.

As for your temp. gauge, see if you can swap the bulb inside it for one o=
f
a lower wattage (less bright).  Or, if you can pull apart the gauge, pain=
t
the inside with a less reflective paint than what's in there.

 -Malcolm
* There is a FAQ for this list!  Its temporary home is:
http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/walker/triumph/trfaq.htm


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 18:31:03 -0500
From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Subject: Re: Duct Tape, very non-TR



>>>>> "Malcolm" =3D=3D Malcolm Walker <walker05@camosun.bc.ca> writes:

    Malcolm> I picked up a roll of "Original Duct Tape", which
    Malcolm> is triple the thickness of the stuff used to put
    Malcolm> up church notices and to wrap lunches.  Probably
    Malcolm> could substitute for rope or chain.

    Malcolm> There's also "Gaffer's Tape", which is like duct
    Malcolm> tape (but better!) and used in the film industry,
    Malcolm> and "Gun Tape", which holds most of the boats in
    Malcolm> the Canadian Navy together.

Don't forget "Racer Tape", which is like Gaffer's, but comes
in more pretty colors, and has beter thermal numbers.  It
holds NASCAR together ;-).

    Malcolm> Duct Tape is like the Force: It has a light side,
    Malcolm> a dark side, and it binds the galaxy together.

    Malcolm> I have a duct tape pennant on the antenna on my
    Malcolm> TR4.

I held the fender on my subaru with it for severa weeks before
I got out the fender washers and "wonder screws".

=09=09=09=09=09=09=09-MM


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 19:36:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: Chip Old <fold@bcpl.net>
Subject: Re: TR3 or TR3A?


On Tue, 15 Sep 1998, Cliff Pike wrote:

> I have just bought a TR3 for restoration, and have received differing
> opinions as to whether it is a TR3 or a TR3A. It is a large mouth, with
> overdrive and SU carbs. The commission number is TS30767. Can anyone
> help me determine what it is?
 
If the large-mouth front end is original to the car, it's a TR3A.

The clincher is the commission number.  TR3A production began at TS22014
(September 1957).

Yours is a 3A.

- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Chip Old                      1948 M.G. TC  TC6710  NEMGTR #2271
Cub Hill, Maryland            1962 Triumph TR4  CT3154LO
fold@bcpl.net


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 09:44:54 +1000
From: john_mcmaster@dpa.act.gov.au
Subject: TR6 DIFF


     Lee,  I've installed a 3.45 diff from a 2500 TC into my '6.  The dif=
f 
     is the same but the mountings are different.  ALL sedans have a 'qui=
ll 
     shaft' set up from the front sub frame assembly.  All you need to do=
 
     is take this shaft from the front and use your existing flange 
     assembly.  You will also need to change the rear cover over as well.=
  
     
     John Mc
     '71 TR6 PI
     'Fast is First'


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 09:54:47 +1000
From: john_mcmaster@dpa.act.gov.au
Subject: TR 6 Rear Sway Bar


     Peter, 
     
     Your set up sounds pretty similar to mine.  Fitting the rear 
     stabiliser will not produce great amounts of oversteer as suggested.=
  
     It does, however, reduce the level of understeer which is very 
     desirable.  If you can, get a copy of Kas Kasner's Tuning Book - it 
     explains in detail what to expect of the different sway bars.  I hav=
e 
     a copy at home, let me know if you want more detail.  Go ahead and f=
it 
     the rear bar - you won't be dissapointed!
     
     John Mc
     '71 TR6 PI
     'Fast is First'


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 19:59:38 -0400
From: "James H. Davis, Jr." <jhdavis@fiac.net>
Subject: Re: thanks and more info


Bryan,
Paint Code 23 is Sienna, a medium brown color. I don't believe I've ever =
seen
a Sienna TR6 with black interior. Sienna usually comes with a shade of ta=
n,
either 13, 33 or 74.
Hope this helps,
Jim Davis
Fortson, GA
CF38690UO
CF37325U

Bryan Loy wrote:

> Hi, and thanks to all who responded to my query as to the color of my T=
R6.
> I looked on the B pillar as was suggested, and the
> paint # is 23 and the trim # is 11.  I figure the trim is black, and th=
e
> #23, well that's what I'd like to know.  Thanks in advance,
> Bryan


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 20:36:21 -0400
From: Henry Frye <thefryes@iconn.net>
Subject: Orange TR3 and Web Site Update


Greetings fellow scions,

The post about my Orange TR3B today gave me the push to finally update my
website. The wonderful driver that my good friend Tom O'Malley is ribbing
me about is there for all to see...

Note my ISP decided to change the URL for my web site. I have no idea why=
,
but the new link is below. I noticed many people have linked my site to
their pages, the old link will not work. Sorry. 

Plus, I put up a page of pictures I took at Gaydon at the Triumph 75th
anniversary. Worth a look.

Enjoy!
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - _
 Henry Frye - thefryes@iconn.net - Connecticut, USA
 TR3B   TCF1927 L   =09Driver          
 TR250  CD690 L     =09Soon to be Driver
 TR250  CD8096 L    =09Someday Driver
 TR250  CD1074 L    =09For Sale (soon!)
 =09=09=09
 Homepage         http://members.iconn.net/thefryes/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 20:36:42 EDT
From: Trmgafun@aol.com
Subject: TR6 Woes Cont'd


Hi,

Well, as suggested by several of you, I checked my crankshaft end float t=
o
find out if that is why I was getting a clicking noise whenever I depress=
ed
the clutch.  Sure enough that is the problem.  When I press the clutch it
causes the flywheel to come in contact with the starter gear.  To determi=
ne
this I pushed on the fan pulley toward the rear of the car and thought I =
felt
the crankshaft move.  I then took a measurement between the face of the f=
an
and the face of the radiator.  I then had my Son press the clutch to the =
floor
while I took another reading.  The difference was .163" OUCH!  

Now.....it appears as though I have lost a thrust washer somehow, someway=
.  Is
this a normal event for this engine?  As far as I know the engine has nev=
er
been torn apart.  Is it possible that it has been driven like this for a
period of time and the PO's didn't realize it?  What kind of damage may h=
ave
occured?  Also, is there a ?simple? procedure for replacing the thrust
washer(s)?

Thanks again, any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated as usua=
l.

Scott Helms
Northern Indiana  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 17:43:23 -0700
From: cak@dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Subject: re: 4/4A differences


A few more items ...

They may have different jacks, but *my* 4A has holes in the floor for
the 4 jack. But I can't swear that they're original floorpans,
since I'm about the 7th owner of the car.

The overriders are different *and* they are placed differently
in front. In particular, the 4 had the overriders spaced close
together, where the 4A has them spread farther apart. 

The hood (top) mechanism is completely different.

My 4A has a loop for the safety catch on the release bracket,
but no safety catch on the bonnet. Again, I can't swear 
it's original. I had always assumed that someone had put
a TR6 release bracket on the car.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 20:20:03 -0400
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pjthomas@ntplx.net>
Subject: Re: TR4/4A differences

ArthurK101@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-09-14 23:22:14 EDT, you write:
>
> > When you say top, do you mean the drop top or the bonnet (hood to
> Detroit's).
>
> I mean top as in "rag top" - (the cloth cover that goes over the driver=
 and
> passenger).  Brits call it the "hood."

> >  I'm not sure, but I believe the TR4 (not A) has a more rounded bonne=
t.
>
> Not so.  Bonnet (hood in the American dialect of English) is the same o=
n the
> TR4A as the later TR4's.  Same shape for all TR4 and 4A's - shorter hoo=
d bulge
> on early TR4's.

Sorry, I stand corrected.  The hood appears to be the same.  I have the M=
oss
Motoring Spring 1998 issue with the beautiful yellow TR4 on the cover.  F=
rom the
picture the TR4 seems to have a more rounded nose than the TR4A in the ga=
rage.  It
could be just the perspective of the picture.  I should have done more
investigation than before posting.

The shop manual states the overall length of the TR4A is 2 inches longer =
and the
overall width is 1/2 inch wider.  I incorrectly assumed the two inches wa=
s because
of a slight body change.  What accounts for the increase in overall dimen=
sions?

> >  TR4A's also have a wider track and 60 spoke wheels instead of the 48
> narrower
> > wheels of the TR4 (not A).
>
> Not so on the track.
>              TR4                             TR4A
>
> Front    4'  1"        disk                4'  1"
>             4'  2"    wire wheels         4'  1 3/4"
>
> Rear     4'  0"        disk                4'  0 1/2"
>             4'  1"    wire wheels         4'  0 3/4"

Now to pull a Clinton.  Technically I was I did not lie. There is a sligh=
t error
in this chart.  Should be:

             TR4                                              TR4A
                                                 live axle               =
  IRS

Front    4'  1"        disk                4'  1"                    4' 1=
"
            4'  2"    wire wheels         4'  1 3/4"             4' 1 3/4=
"

Rear     4'  0"        disk                4'  0"                    4' 0=
 1/2"
            4'  1"    wire wheels         4'  0 3/4"              4' 1 1/=
4"

The TR4A with wire wheels lost 1/4" front and the live axle with wire whe=
els also
lost 1/4" rear.  But, the TR4A IRS wire wheels gain a 1/4" in the rear.  =
Phew, had
the lawyers working on that one all night.

I remembered that something on my car, got wider.  I should have looked i=
n the
manual before posting.  Again, sorry.

> Also not so on the number of spokes on the wire wheels.  Triumph went t=
o the
> 60 spoke wheels (for export) early in the TR4.  Most LHD TR4's with ori=
ginal
> wire wheels would have had 60 spokes.

Were any delivered with 48 spokes in the States?   If so, when was the ch=
ange
over?

> Other differences - TR4 hood (bonnet) badge is blue color but same desi=
gn as
> TR3 (the "open book" design). TR4A's have globe on bonnet.  Also the
> overriders on bumpers are smaller for the TR4A.

Lighting switch in on the column and the rheostat move into the lighting =
swich
position of the TR4.

The dash support also changed between the TR4, TR4A and the TR250.

BTW, I have a TR250 dash support (yoke?) looking for a new home.  It's no=
t
perfect, but not bad either.  Free to a good home, provided the adoptive =
parent
comes and picks it up.  I live in western CT (yes, there is a western and=
 eastern
CT).

> As well as a larger radiator for the TR4A, the TR4A had a six bladed ra=
ther
> than a four bladed fan (as on the TR4).

> Cheers.
>
> Art Kelly  '64 TR4 CT33118L (original owner/ factory delivery)
> Vintage Triumph Register (VTR) TR4 vehicle consultant
>

Applogies for the incorrect data.

Peter Thomas




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 20:58:08 -0700
From: Michael Ferguson <fergie@ntplx.net>
Subject: Re: TR6 Woes Cont'd


Trmgafun@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Well, as suggested by several of you, I checked my crankshaft end float=
 to
> find out if that is why I was getting a clicking noise whenever I depre=
ssed
> the clutch.  Sure enough that is the problem.  When I press the clutch =
it
> causes the flywheel to come in contact with the starter gear.  To deter=
mine
> this I pushed on the fan pulley toward the rear of the car and thought =
I felt
> the crankshaft move.  I then took a measurement between the face of the=
 fan
> and the face of the radiator.  I then had my Son press the clutch to th=
e floor
> while I took another reading.  The difference was .163" OUCH!
> 
> Now.....it appears as though I have lost a thrust washer somehow, somew=
ay.  Is
> this a normal event for this engine?  As far as I know the engine has n=
ever
> been torn apart.  Is it possible that it has been driven like this for =
a
> period of time and the PO's didn't realize it?  What kind of damage may=
 have
> occured?  Also, is there a ?simple? procedure for replacing the thrust
> washer(s)?
> 
> Thanks again, any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated as us=
ual.
> 
> Scott Helms
> Northern Indiana

Scott, if this keeps up, you're going to have to change your email ID!
This does NOT sound like "fun"!! Sorry, couldn't resist...

Michael Ferguson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 21:03:04 -0400
From: Joseph Sholtes <joeiv@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: TR6 Bonnet Latch Adjustment


Mike,


     Besides the rubber bumpers at the rear corner of the bonnet
being too high, you may have too much sping tension at the post.
The post (in the hood part of the latch) is adjustable via the screw
slot in its concal end.
  Adjust everything so the hood just, lightly pops open when the release
cable is pulled, as this prolongs the life of the cable.

                                       JOE IV
                                       TR 250
                                 WALLINGFORD, CT USA



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 19:31:15 -0400
From: Tony Rhodes <ARhodes@compuserve.com>
Subject: RE: TR4/4A Differences


Message text written by Art Kelly
>As well as a larger radiator for the TR4A, the TR4A had a six bladed
rather
than a four bladed fan (as on the TR4).<

I hate to correct the man I look to for MY info, but
I think the fan varied through the 4A run.  I have CT73336L (fairly
late in the run) and I have a metal 4 blade fan that I am positive is
original to the car.  (1 previous owner - my father- and only 28448
miles.)  Maybe very close to the end of the run (when they were
gearing up for the 6 cyl engine) they used the 6 blade plastic fan.

I wonder when/how the change-over was made.  Was it
random fitment with the first fan the mechanic laid his hands on,
or was there an abrupt cut-off.

 -Tony

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 21:11:25 -0400
From: Joseph Sholtes <joeiv@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: TR4 boot lid lettering




ArthurK101@aol.com wrote:

> >
>
> I believe I've been misquoted.  We had a thread going awhile back about=
 the
> markings on the TR4 boot lid.  The answer was that very early TR4's had=
 NO
> "TR4" chrome lettering.  The "TR4" letters did become standard pretty e=
arly,
> (we never did determine exactly when that occurred however.  The "TR4" =
marking
> was put on at the factory.  Cheers.
>
> Art Kelly

Art,

  I was involved in that thread.  I have a road test of an early  TR4 in =
a Road and Track
magazine (Feb. '62), and the pictures showed no TR4 lettering  on the boo=
t lid; just the
T R I U M P H letters accross the lid.

                                                             JOE IV
                                                             TR 250
                                                    WALLINGFORD, CT. USA



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 18:19:12 -0700
From: John Richardson <johnr@intellicorp.com>
Subject: Parts FS


Would anyone be interested in any parts I have stripped off of a TR250.
The car had no doors, no engine, no interior, so basically I have a bunch
of suspension parts and some fenders.  Generally, I'd like to sell the
parts for 50% of Moss prices if the part is in good condition, otherwise
less.  

Also,  I need to dispose of the frame and tub.  The frame has some damage=
,
rusted and bent, in the front.  The tub is fairly rust free and straight,
but a PO has punched two holes in the front kick panels for speakers.  I
will take best offer for these even if that offer is nothing, as I need t=
o
move them soon and wouldn't want to junk something someone else can use.


John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 21:38:25 -0400
From: "Sumner Weisman" <sweisman@gis.net>
Subject: Orange TR-3


Henry,

ISTR that they used to make Volkswagen bugs the same orange also.

Sumner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 21:50:25 -0700
From: George Richardson <gprtech@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: TR3 or TR3A?

It's a TR3A. I've got a TR3A parts car, comm. # TS30702L

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 21:49:22 EDT
From: DANMAS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Motor in the boot


In a message dated 98-09-15 10:47:12 EDT, coday@localaccess.com writes:

> Don't give up so easily.  
>  We need to check with Dan on this one, I bet we could fit a V8 
>  transverse in the boot with a bit of bondo and duct tape.

Geezer,

If it can be conceived, it can be.............well, maybe not.

Dan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 18:50:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Malcolm Walker <walker05@camosun.bc.ca>
Subject: Stuck TR4 visors!!


I now have the drivers' seat in my TR4, and while sitting in it and makin=
g
"vroom vroom" noises I noticed that the sun visor is stuck down.

I got it to move (and make an awful noise) a bit, but it seems to want to
stay in the down position.  Is there an easy way to free up the clamps
(without making the visors too floppy!!), or do I have to pull them off
the car and do some ritual?

I think the mechanisms inside the works are sticking somehow, I can move
them one way but not the other.  I think some gearless ratchets work this
way (but I don't want it to, in this case!)

 -Malcolm
* There is a FAQ for this list!  Its temporary home is:
http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/walker/triumph/trfaq.htm


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 21:50:00 -0400
From: Joseph Sholtes <joeiv@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Orange TR3 and Web Site Update

Henry,

   The pic at http://members.iconn.net/thefryes/TR250.html is aptly
subtitled- it is indeed a tease   ;^)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 21:56:45 -0400
From: "Sumner Weisman" <sweisman@gis.net>
Subject: Re: Manchester Show

Listers,

Now that I think about it, what is involved in adding an overdrive to a
non-overdrive TR-3B transmission?  I never actually considered it before,
but am getting braver these days.  Keep in mind that I am "transmission
technology impaired" when you reply.

Thanks!

Sumner Weisman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 19:00:41 -0700
From: Alan Myers <reagntsj@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: e mail opinions


Dennis,

I have also attempted to do business with some of the vendors via
e-mail. I don't think they are "dissing" you. I think the problem is
that they don't check for e-mail often and many don't know what to do
with it when rec'd. I'd suggest just picking up the phone.

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 #CT17602



Dennis Barr wrote:

> Need your opinions: A few weeks ago, I e mailed a "want" list of items
>
> for my TR4. I sent the request to three companies used by this list.
> At
> least they are mentioned. Only one replied; Atlantic British-they said
>
> we will look and see, but that was three weeks ago.
> Neither Triumphs Only or a place in Ohio had even the courtesy of
> responding.
> My questions: have any of you experienced this behavior, or was my
> timing(sorry), just wrong. I want to believe that suppliers other than
>
> the big three are interested in helping us.
> Just wondering.
> Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 19:09:03 -0700
From: Alan Myers <reagntsj@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: TR6 rear anti-sway bar


Peter,

I can't address the TR6 specifically, but would suggest trying a small
diameter bar, 1/2 or 2/3 the thickness of  the front bar on your car.
Rear bars are not the hot setup on the solid axle cars, but used "in
moderation" can help keep an independent rear suspension under control.

Is "tail happy" a bad thing? (Sorry, I couldn't resist}

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 #CT17602



Peter Wilson wrote:

> Hi list,
>
> Does anyone out there have any real-life EXPERIENCE with the benefits
> (or
> otherwise) of rear anti-sway bars? I have heard that they can reduce
> the
> heavy understeer characteristic of the TR6, but am concerned that it
> may
> make the car tail-happy and unpredictable.
>
> My TR6 is basically stock, with only the following changes:
>         Suspension lowered about 1" all round
>         Increased spring rate at rear (front standard)
>         Konis on front, lever-arms on rear
>         Yokohama 205/65 A-509 radials
>
> Any feedback or suggestions welcomed.
>
> Peter Wilson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 22:12:06 EDT
From: KTRIUMPH@aol.com
Subject: Re: TR3 or TR3A?


In a message dated 98-09-15 19:24:52 EDT, you write:

<< I have just bought a TR3 for restoration, and have received differing
 opinions as to whether it is a TR3 or a TR3A. It is a large mouth, with
 overdrive and SU carbs. The commission number is TS30767. Can anyone
 help me determine what it is? >>

Cliff
According to the commission # it's a TR3A, "large mouth". Probably built =
in
'57 or '58.

Ken Nuelle
58 TR3A - TS22690
62 TR3B
64 TR4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 22:37:54 EDT
From: ArthurK101@aol.com
Subject: Re: TR4/4A differences


In a message dated 98-09-15 20:45:19 EDT, you write:

> Applogies for the incorrect data.
>  

Peter, no problem.  I just have a hell of a time convinving everyone that
although the two models are similar there are differences.  If someone is=
 not
aware of what the differences are, they could get wind up with the wrong =
part.
Thanks for your concern and corrections, especially the differences betwe=
en
the "live axle" and the IRS.  Also - I don't know if any early TR4's were
shipped with 48 spoke wheels but since Triumph seemed to use up any "left=
over"
parts, it would not surprise me if a few early TR4's managed to get them.
Cheers.

Art Kelly '64 TR4 CT33118L (original owner)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 22:38:08 EDT
From: ArthurK101@aol.com
Subject: Re: TR4 boot lid lettering


Joe, thanks.  We agree.  This thread keeps popping up - I guess that we m=
ust
remember that new folks keep coming onto the list.  Cheers.

Art

In a message dated 98-09-15 21:22:12 EDT, joeiv@concentric.net writes:

> ArthurK101@aol.com wrote:
>  >
>  > I believe I've been misquoted.  We had a thread going awhile back ab=
out 
> the
>  > markings on the TR4 boot lid.  The answer was that very early TR4's =
had
NO
>  > "TR4" chrome lettering.  The "TR4" letters did become standard prett=
y 
> early,
>  > (we never did determine exactly when that occurred however.  The "TR=
4" 
> marking
>  > was put on at the factory.  Cheers.
>  >
>  > Art Kelly

  
>  Art,
>   I was involved in that thread.  I have a road test of an early  TR4 i=
n a 
> Road and Track
>  magazine (Feb. '62), and the pictures showed no TR4 lettering  on the =
boot 
> lid; just the
>  T R I U M P H letters accross the lid.
>  
>                                                               JOE IV
>                                                               TR 250
>                                                      WALLINGFORD, CT. U=
SA
>  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 22:38:05 EDT
From: ArthurK101@aol.com
Subject: Re: TR4/4A Differences


In a message dated 98-09-15 21:07:42 EDT, you write:

> I wonder when/how the [fan] change-over was made.  Was it
>  random fitment with the first fan the mechanic laid his hands on,
>  or was there an abrupt cut-off.
>  
>  -Tony

Tony, good queston.  Let's see who else chimes in.  SOME records show the=
 TR4A
as having a 6 bladed fan.  2nd edition of the Workshop Manual shows the
"modified radiator" but does not mention the 6 bladed fan.  So the jury i=
s
still out.  Cheers.

Art Kelly '64 TR4 CT33118L (original owner/factory pickup)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 21:49:05 -0500
From: "Brad Kahler" <Brad.Kahler@141.com>
Subject: Re: TR4 boot lid lettering


Art,

I may have missed this answer so I'm going to ask, is there any 
consensus as to when the TR4 logo was finally installed on the boot 
lid at the factory?  

Inquiring minds want to know<g>

> 
> Joe, thanks.  We agree.  This thread keeps popping up - I guess that we
> must remember that new folks keep coming onto the list.  Cheers.
> 
> Art
> 
> In a message dated 98-09-15 21:22:12 EDT, joeiv@concentric.net writes:
> 
> > ArthurK101@aol.com wrote:
> >  >
> >  > I believe I've been misquoted.  We had a thread going awhile back
> >  > about 
> > the
> >  > markings on the TR4 boot lid.  The answer was that very early TR4'=
s
> >  > had
> NO
> >  > "TR4" chrome lettering.  The "TR4" letters did become standard pre=
tty
> >  > 
> > early,
> >  > (we never did determine exactly when that occurred however.  The
> >  > "TR4" 
> > marking
> >  > was put on at the factory.  Cheers.
> >  >
> >  > Art Kelly
> 
> 
> >  Art,
> >   I was involved in that thread.  I have a road test of an early  TR4=
 in
> >   a 
> > Road and Track
> >  magazine (Feb. '62), and the pictures showed no TR4 lettering  on th=
e
> >  boot 
> > lid; just the
> >  T R I U M P H letters accross the lid.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 23:00:25 EDT
From: KTRIUMPH@aol.com
Subject: Re: TR6 Woes Cont'd


In a message dated 98-09-15 20:38:42 EDT, you write:

<< Well, as suggested by several of you, I checked my crankshaft end floa=
t to
 find out if that is why I was getting a clicking noise whenever I depres=
sed
 the clutch.  Sure enough that is the problem.  When I press the clutch i=
t
 causes the flywheel to come in contact with the starter gear.  To determ=
ine
 this I pushed on the fan pulley toward the rear of the car and thought I=
 felt
 the crankshaft move.  I then took a measurement between the face of the =
fan
 and the face of the radiator.  I then had my Son press the clutch to the
floor
 while I took another reading.  The difference was .163" OUCH!  
 
 Now.....it appears as though I have lost a thrust washer somehow, somewa=
y.
Is
 this a normal event for this engine?  As far as I know the engine has ne=
ver
 been torn apart.  Is it possible that it has been driven like this for a
 period of time and the PO's didn't realize it?  What kind of damage may =
have
 occured?  Also, is there a ?simple? procedure for replacing the thrust
 washer(s)?
 
 Thanks again, any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated as usu=
al.
 
 Scott Helms
 Northern Indiana  
  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Scott
If you've lost a thrust washer, do not run the motor. I believe it is pos=
sible
to fit new t-washers with the engine in situ. I could be wrong but I thin=
k a
friend of mine did on his TR6. 
Probably best is an overhaul.
I have heard that this is a common occurance on some later Spitfires, too=
 big
of a clutch. This happened to someone I know and the crankshaft wore into=
 the
block to the point where his engine wasn't salvageable.
Good Luck!

Ken Nuelle 
58 TR3A
62 TR3B
64 TR4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 23:11:48 EDT
From: KTRIUMPH@aol.com
Subject: Re: Manchester Show


In a message dated 98-09-15 22:16:03 EDT, you write:

<< Now that I think about it, what is involved in adding an overdrive to =
a
 non-overdrive TR-3B transmission?  I never actually considered it before=
,
 but am getting braver these days.  Keep in mind that I am "transmission
 technology impaired" when you reply.
 
 Thanks!
 
 Sumner Weisman
  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
SW
Easy part - installing OD onto existing gearbox. Involves rebuild of gear=
box,
as you have to put in a different mainshaft.
Hard part - finding a good working A type OD and all the associated parts=
,
pieces & wires. Also the expensive part!

Ken Nuelle
58 TR3A
62 TR3B
64 TR4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 23:20:30 -0400
From: "Patrick Bitton" <pbitton@axess.com>
Subject: Frame Question


Hey all,

    I am about to either blast or POR-15 my frame. Can someone tell what =
is
the better way to go? If I blast, how can I get into the inner part of th=
e
frame(square tubing)? I also noticed that one of the differential support=
s
was eaten by rust. Can I simply arc weld it? Do I have to check and adjus=
t
the retainer bolts or could I just weld it to make it more solid?

Thanks in advance,

Patrick



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 22:23:49 -0500
From: "unicorn7" <unicorn7@mail.icnet.net>
Subject: Re: Spitfire and TR7 wheels

Jack, If they fit any one of those, they'll fit all of them.  The only
difference is in lug size, the Spitfire and GT6 use a 3/8" lug, while the
TR7 and 8 use a 7/16" lug - they are the same bolt spacing (I have a set =
of
5 1/2" TR7 steel wheels on my '69 GT6.

Dave Korzun

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 22:24:09 -0500
From: "Brad Kahler" <Brad.Kahler@141.com>
Subject: Thrust washers


All this talk about thrust washers has me wondering about TR4 and 
4A engines.  Are thrust washers a common problem with these 
engines?  Do you check them the same way, pushing the crank 
towards the back of the car and then pushing the clutch in to push the 
crank back the other way?

TIA

Brad  (Lincoln Nebraska 402-464-1502)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 22:29:18 -0500
From: "Brad Kahler" <Brad.Kahler@141.com>
Subject: TR3 / TR4 lug nuts and wheel studs


I'm trying to determine what is really the correct size of lug nut one 
these two cars.  The lug nuts on my TR4 can be removed with an 
11/16" wrench.  I picked up a lug nut wrench that was supplied with 
the TR3's.  It seems to be sized for nuts that are 7/8" in size.  

Can someone verify the proper dimension for me?

TIA

Brad  (Lincoln Nebraska 402-464-1502)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 23:46:16 EDT
From: DANMAS@aol.com
Subject: Leon's incredible journey begins


Fellow Listers in America!
Here I am again, in Tennessee at Dan Masters place.

Tomorrow: Wednesday 16th September 1998

I will be setting off in Dan Masters red TR6 from Alcoa, Tennessee
on Interstate 75 north via Lexington & Cincinnati to Columbus 
where I will be staying with Bill Blake (owner of red TR6 with 350 ci V8
engine)
so if anyone should see me and the TR6 passing by on my journey
Give a hoot of appreciation !!! or at least recognition :->

All the Best
Leon F Guyot

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 21:44:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Malcolm Walker <walker05@camosun.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: TR3 / TR4 lug nuts and wheel studs


On Tue, 15 Sep 1998, Brad Kahler wrote:

> I'm trying to determine what is really the correct size of lug nut one 
> these two cars.  The lug nuts on my TR4 can be removed with an 
> 11/16" wrench.  I picked up a lug nut wrench that was supplied with 
> the TR3's.  It seems to be sized for nuts that are 7/8" in size.  

You could easily have a bunch of replacement lug nuts.  The important par=
t
is the inner thread (7/16 NF I think), and of course the tapered part tha=
t
really tightens down on the wheel.

The lug nuts on my TR4 appear to be TR6 spec.  They are chromed, rather
tall, and have a plastic circle around (which retains the "hub cap").  I
use a breaker bar w/ a 7/8 socket for my lug wrench.

Also in my possesion is what I beleive to be the original lug wrench for =
a
TR4.  It fits a 7/8 nut as well.  Can't really describe it as a precision
tool, but it's a lot more gadgety than yer usual OEM-spec lug wrench.
Stamped on to the shaft is "PENNANT BRITISH MADE" and "325 PAT No.
589794".  On the socket, '325' and '7/8" A/F'. It has a rotating jobbie a=
t
the end (like a speed wrench) and an excessivly complicated folding
handle.  Not sure if it's an original TR fitment, but it fitments my
lugnutments.

 -Malcolm
* There is a FAQ for this list!  Its temporary home is:
http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/walker/triumph/trfaq.htm


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 00:56:29 -0400
From: Eileen Kramer <ebk@buffnet.net>
Subject: Bronte show


Hi TR Listers! My computor has been down for 10 weeks. I've been bussy
down loading the digest reports & trying to catch-up on all the
reading.Are there any of you going to the car show in Bronte,[outside of
Hamalton] Ontiaro, Canada? -Cosmo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 02:12:33 -0400
From: "Musson, Carl" <musson@satie.arts.usf.edu>
Subject: RE: Insurance Questions


Barney - I want to commend you on your excellant evaluation of the
situation.   There can be quite a bit of mis-understanding between
"declared" value and "agreed" value.  My only addition would be to make
sure the insurer you are talking to is using the same definition as you
are.    I received a quote from a company who was saying "agreed value"
and when you read the policy it was more of a "declared value" policy.
Also, some carriers are extremely narrow in their definition of when the
car can be used/driven.  Again - read the fine print.

Carl Musson
'58 TR3A - TS25264L - Daily Driver
'61 TR3A - TS81603LO - Concours Wannabe...
Tampa, Florida
http://www.arts.usf.edu/~musson/triumph/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 02:28:01 -0400
From: Eileen Kramer <ebk@buffnet.net>


Input on the thread of using silicone brake fluid again. Yes, I have
reused the fluid when flushing an ALL new brake system. I did let the
fluid stand over night in an enclosed containor. I also have seperated
the caliper halves on order to removed the seized brake pistion out. Now
just because one person has done this, dosen't mean that it should be
concered a good pratice.
=09On the thread of differances between TR4's & TR4/A's, I don't recall
reading about the TR4/A front suspention being beefed up abit, as well
as the wheel alingment stats being different. A slight differance in the
rear view mirrows, stiching in the seats, & style, ect. -Cosmo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 09:20:16 +0100
From: "Andy T Harrison" <atharrison@wavetek.com>
Subject: Needed: TR7 Headlight


Help! Just noticed last night that one of by headlights has gone. On clos=
er
examination  it looks like some stone chipping has made a hole in the fro=
nt
of it. Of course, cos it's just one sealed unit bulb, once it was damaged=
,
the vacuum leaked out and the filiment slowly burnt itself out. Can anyon=
e
tell me what the part number / bulb type is that I need to replace it, an=
d
where (UK) would be the best place to get a replacement. Is this going to
be a TR7 specific headlamp, or are they common across several Triumphs?
Does anyone have a spare one that they are willing to part with?

Andy Harrison
'79 TR7



------------------------------


End of triumphs@autox.team.net digest
************************


--part1_905974628_boundary--

--part0_905974628_boundary--

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>
  • Fwd: triumphs@autox.team.net digest #1292 Wed Sep 16 02:35:01 MDT 1998, TR3197 <=