Great stuff to find a valve that WORKS. Just an observation though, I don't
think the brake pads know if the rotors are thin or thick except in the
matter of recovery time (heat) as long as they are not warped or have hard
spots.SO......my vote is for the valve you installed.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack W. Drews <vinttr4@geneseo.net>
To: <fot@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 11:15 AM
Subject: pedal drop
> We used to have this problem but decided we had to fix it after
> Dentinger complained about all the brake light flashing going on down
> the straights. He thought he was coming to a railroad crossing signal.
>
> We made two changes at the same time, so I don't know which one did the
> trick.
>
> 1) We bought new rotors. Old ones were thin from being turned too many
> times.
>
> 2) We installed a residual pressure valve in the front brake line. It
> does the same thing as the stock (40 year old) ones did. Except this one
> is made by Wilwood, is new, and works. They make two pressures -- get
> the low pressure one. They are available from your local speed junkie or
> through mail order outfits like JEG's that cater to the hot rod set,
> since street rodder systems tend to have the same problem.
>
> Since doing these two things, we have had the problem only once or twice
> in a year-and-a-half.
>
> This may not work for you, no guarantee stated or implied, don't try
> this without professional help, and do not spindle, fold, or mutilate
> this message.
>
> --
>
> TR6 -- 29 and still running
> TR4 -- 39 and still racing
> uncle jack -- 59+ and still learning
>
>
>
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