One set up I am looking at for the future of my Gt-6 is the Miata set up. I
am going to use Steve Smith nicely done conversion first to get me by for a
couple of years then I am going to completely redesign the rear of my Gt-6
to accept the Miata set up with disc brakes. I intend to use everything from
a miata exept the diff. The Miata axles/ suspension have more than enough
meat to handle the Gt-6. Plus you can get parts just about anywhere.
Andy Stark
72 EP-Gt6
>From: "Bill Bartlett" <billbartlett@homerebuilders.com>
>Reply-To: "Bill Bartlett" <billbartlett@homerebuilders.com>
>To: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@gte.net>
>CC: <fot@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: Rotoflex rear Hubs
>Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 11:00:27 -0500
>
>Hello Joe,
>From our previous conversations I think you are on the right path. Due to
>the history of failures in this area and the "extreme" consequences I think
>that your efforts are valid.
>From the inspection on my failed stub axles and hubs I think that your
>failure point is accurate. Does the nut loosen and the create a wear point
>which leads to a stress fracture, or does the hub create a bending moment
>which causes the thin end of the axle to work harden into the very brittle
>Marstenic condition which then leads to failure? I am not sure, but am
>working on this. However it would seem that both solutions lie in the hub /
>stub axle connection. The Datsun solution takes this into account. Like you
>I am not keen on the mix of parts, nor the resulting inertial mass, nor the
>difficulty in balancing the parts. So we continue to look for a better
>solution.
>
> How do you propose making the hub / stub axle connection?
>
>Good to hear from you.
>
>Bill B
>Ps: that new article on the Ro-Spit rear suspension is due to come out
>shortly.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist@gte.net]
>Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2002 4:13 PM
>To: Friends of Triumph
>Subject: Rotoflex rear Hubs
>
>Here I am again trying to reinvent the wheel (or maybe just what it
>connects to).
>
>The application is the Hub, outer axle and vertical link (upright) on a GT6
>rotoflex application.
>
>The trouble with the original design as I have been informed is that the
>forces being applied to the hub causes the threads holding the hub onto the
>shaft stretch, loosen and start wearing on the hub. Ultimately it ruins
>either the shaft, hub or both.
>
>After Receiving the two assemblies from Team Triumph (thanks Scott) I have
>been thinking a lot about how best to approach a solution. Here are my
>thoughts exposed to the list for critical review. Go ahead and take your
>best shot. In the end, I am hoping that I will achieve something that will
>cure the problems and do so at a very affordable price.
>
>1. One solution that is already in use is to use a Datsun hub that has the
>securing bolt on the inside of the upright. This appears to be a good
>solution but I am afraid that availability of parts is going to be reduced
>in the future. Also, it involves a lot more parts than what I think are
>necessary.
>
>2. My vision involves the use of Clive Averill's CV-Joint conversion with a
>different twist. I have already had Moser make a pair of inner axle
>shafts to connect from the GT6 flanges to the VW Diesel Rabbit CV-Joint, so
>I am looking to replace the outside axle and hub with a different bearing
>configuration.
>
>3. By having a shaft manufactured with the hub integrated onto the end, and
>having the retaining hardware on the inside of the upright, I am thinking
>that the forces will be better contained and less likely to cause the
>normal problems. By using the CV-Joint rather that the rubber donut, the
>tripod
>end of the shaft can be changed over to a splined end and allow the shaft
>to be threaded further up to accept a pair of jamb nuts to keep the shaft
>properly aligned with the bearings. I am thinking that aircraft type nuts
>with safety wire holes will keep them from separating.
>
>4. In examining the upright, I see that there is a lot of room to position
>the bearings further apart. I am thinking that the further apart they are,
>the better able they will be resist wobbling within the bearings and
>contain the forces that try to tear up the bearings and hub. I am also
>thinking
>that by replacing both bearings with straight rollers instead of the
>tapered variety, it would further control these forces.
>
>5. With all the above taken into consideration, It remains to find bearings
>that are the correct size and strength for the job and have a pair of
>axles machined with the hubs permanently attached, threaded for retainer
>nuts and splined for the CV-Joint and grooved for the retaining circlip.
>
>If I can have these shafts made for around $200 each, it would make the
>project very affordable. This seems to be well within reason since I had
>both
>the inner axles with splines on both ends made for $227.
>
>So, There you have it. I appreciate any input, especially anything that
>would shoot holes in my theory. I'd rather find out before investing a
>great
>deal of money.
>
>Regards,
>Joe (C)
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