I did manage to fry one mini alternator by having a 50 amp charger on the
battery and the car running at the same time, so now I disconnect the
battery whenever it's on the charger. I've found with Auto-x that the
alternator doesn't really get a chance to charge the battery so it still
runs down after a while. Makes a great tensioner pulley though :-)
Matthew Wilder
'67 TR4a Ep auto-xer
http://home.webryders.com/teamwild/
> Allen,
>
> This is a tough one.
>
> Buy a one wire alternator. Put a big, fat wire on the only terminal on the
> alternator, and connect it to the hot side of your battery. Since most
race
> cars have the battery in the trunk or passenger compartment, connect it to
> the hot side (unswitched) of the solenoid.
>
> Done.
>
> Does not get much easier than that, unless you want to get one of those
> fancy master cut off switches that has two sets of contacts, one for the
> main battery load and one for the alternator. I use a standard master
> switch with one set of contacts and I break the ground. Nobody has ever
> given me a good reason to do it any other way, and so far my alternator
> seems fine. I never shut off the engine with the master, only with the
> ignition switch.
>
> Tony Drews has a schematic on his website on how to wire one of the master
> cut off switches with two sets of contacts.
>
> http://www.tonydrews.com/Kill_Switch2.jpg
>
> Thanks, Tony!
>
> At 08:07 PM 06/04/2003 -0500, Allen Washatko wrote:
> >Greetings!
> >
> >I've decided to run an alternator on my 1971 TR6 for vintage racing. Can
> >anyone give me a quick wiring diagram/lesson?
> >Thanks for any help.
> >
> >Allen
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