John - I good friend, Max Jaffe (original owner - 1960 TR3A) in Pacific
Palisades, Calif. once told me how he did it with eye-bolts into the threads
in the inside ends of the seized bolts. Then with lots of penetrant and a
huge turn-buckle, he tighened it and they came out - after trying for a
week. They came out towards the center of the TR. I couldn't get mine out
in 1987 when I did my body-off restoration but that was no problem as the
body was off. I left them in and re-used the originals with 80,350 miles on
them from new.
In 2000, while I was driving home from VTR in Portland, Oregon having done
over 7200 miles, I was 7 miles from home when my RHS rear spring broke. I
limped the last 7 miles home. I loosened the 12 body to frame bolts and
removed the 2 at the rear plus those holding the rear over-rider bumperettes
and lifted the rear end of the body about 6" with my rolling jack. That
gave me enought lift to slide off the old springs and slide on my new ones.
Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A, Montreal, Canada
-------------------------------------------------------
Neil Revington in England sells stainless steel bolts as replacements.
http://www.revingtontr.com/
PIN RR SPRING FF SUPPORT TR2-4
TR2-4 front eyebolt, stainless steel. When you eventually get the old
ones out, don't chance them being seized again, replace them with this
stainless item. Product Code: 106231SS Price Ex VAT: #15.95 Price
Inc VAT: #18.74
----------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Herrera" <jrherrera90@hotmail.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2003 7:58 PM
Subject: TR3 Leaf Spring Front Attachment Pin
> Amici:
>
> I tried to remove the pin that holds the front of the rear suspension
spring
> to the frame on my TR3. As some of you are probably well aware, removal of
> this pin must be accomplished by pulling it toward the center of the car.
> The body blocks access to the outside of the pin so that it cannot be
driven
> towards the center of the car from outside, save by removing the body or
> drilling a hole in the body. To facilitate removal with the body on the
> frame, the inner side of the pin is drilled and tapped for a 5/16 fine
bolt.
>
> First I applied Penetrating Oil, then I put fastened a fender washer to
the
> inner side of the pin with a bolt in the hole provided. I used a "pickle
> fork" as a lever with the tines resting on the fender washer and
straddling
> the pin, and, using the frame as a fulcrum, beat on the other end of the
> pickle fork to pry the pin toward the center of the car. It came out about
> halfway and stopped, and no amount of beating and name-calling would budge
> it any further.
>
> I have asked a few people how they removed this pin. They say they had no
> problem, but the body was removed when they did it! Cutting the pin with
a
> sawzall has been suggested, so I bought one. This will get the spring off,
> but won't half of the pin stay in the frame?
>
> I'm sure this is not the first time this pin has gotten stuck. Does anyone
> have a favorite method for removing it with the body in place?
>
> Thanks!
>
> John Herrera
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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