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Re: FOT Project Pulley

To: "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: FOT Project Pulley
From: "Scott Janzen" <s.janzen@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 11:21:24 -0500
Don't know about adaptability to a TR4 since I have GT6 but I bought some
very nice round tooth belt drive pulleys, hubs etc from Jones Racing
Products.  (JonesRacingProducts.com).  They had an expanding collet that
slipped onto the water pump shaft and permitted that pulley installation.
The crank is fitted with a Ford harmonic balancer for their small block, and
the pulley set-up was a bolt on for that.  Jones was very helpful in
figuring out offsets, pulley combinations, etc to get the right pump speed
and a tight belt.  I don't run a generator/alternator, but they have pulleys
for those too.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Young" <cartravel@pobox.com>
To: "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: FOT Project Pulley


> I made my current pulley by turning down a big (approx. 4 or 5 inch
> diameter) chunk of steel.  It took forever.  It would be much simpler to
> machine a hub and bolt an off-the-shelf pulley and harmonic balancer to
> it. I don't know what off-the-shelf items would work. Suggestions?
>
> Does anyone run an electric pump?  Would it be vintage legal?
>
> If you're running hot enough to form steam, you can always increase the
> block pressure by changing the radiator cap. However, I've seen problems
> which I suspected were due to too much block pressure.  I'm hard headed,
> so it took a while for Kramer to convince me not to run more than a 7
> psi cap. With separate liners that protrude above the block deck, our
> engines have many places to develop leaks at high pressure.  A better
> solution is to install a higher capacity radiator.  This is one of the
> best mods I've done.  Mine is a commodity Chevy radiator that I got from
> Speedway Motors for about $150.  For a TR3, you'll have to cut off the
> filler neck and weld a patch over the hole.  I fill thru an expansion
> tank mounted on the firewall, but it would be better to have a neck
> welded into the thermostat housing.  I have enough to worry about when
> I'm racing, this eliminated one of them.
>
> Henry Frye wrote:
>
> > At 07:45 PM 03/25/2005 -0800, Bill Babcock wrote:
> >
> >>  It would be a very worthwhile endeavor to get a smaller crankshaft
> >> pulley
> >> or a larger waterpump pulley. We probably need about 60-70 percent of
> >> the
> >> pump speed we have now. It would require some testing and some
> >> engineering,
> >> but it seems like a worth project. Ken--have you ever considered doing
> >> something to fiddle with the pulley ratios?
> >
> >
> > Remember, slowing down the water pump will further reduce the coolant
> > pressure in the block. You want decent coolant pressure in the block
> > to quench the steam bubbles that will form, and the inherent poor
> > coolant flow towards the rear of the block makes #4 the target for
> > localized overheating.
> >
> > I'd be cautious with this approach to finding more ponies, especially
> > if you have had cylinder #4 overheating issues.

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