Hi Nick -- I use the same system and it has worked in my car very
well. I've replaced the rear mount only once in ten years, and that
probably wasn't necessary. This system lets the engine vibrate but
not move radically. I also put a small piece of bent sheet metal
between the aluminum transmission and the frame mounting plate, right
angle, hole in one leg through which the bolt passes. I read about
that somewhere. I'm not sure it helps, but the whole thing works for me too.
At 11:26 PM 8/28/2006, malaboge@aol.com wrote:
>Fellow gear bangers-
>
>Here is a thought on how to maintain a bit of flex, and yet thwart
>the feared "tranny flop". I've used this for some time and it seems
>to just keep keepin on...but then I'm kinda lo-tech.
>
>Drill about a 7/8" hole into the trans mount crossmember directly
>below each trans mount hole. Obtain bolts long enough to go thru the
>trans, mount and all the way down thru the crossmember. The bolts
>must be treaded all the way (I've even used threaded rod to make up
>some "bolts"). Drop the bolt down thru the trans and run a washer
>and nut all the way up to bolt the trans and mount together. Then
>run another washer and nyloc nut up on the bottom side of the trans
>and stop before the nut actually contacts the trans crossmember.
>This keeps the trans and mount isolated as was designed, but the
>longer bolts keep the whole magilla from shifting so far as to break
>the rubber mount apart. This setup also protects against major
>movement when unintended impacts are encountered, while still
>allowing the unit to "float" when "normal" driving is desired.
>By changing the size of the holes in the crossmember, you can vary
>the amount of movement desired.
>
>
>Stock mounts seem to last forever with this setup.
>
>
>
>Broken Gears and Tears...
> Nick in Nor Cal
>
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