I used to deal with a little seepage on the figure of 8's but I switched to
using blue Hylomar in place of Permatex and I haven't had an issue since. It's
expensive but they actually had some at Harbor Freight the last time I was
there.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com@autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+rkramer=rdoequipment.com@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Babcock
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 2:11 PM
To: Randall; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] sump problems
Not an uncommon thing, and not worth pulling the head for. Depending on the
type of head gasket you have you might retorque. If you have a steel or solid
copper it probably won't help. It's just water leaking up the bolt. I use a
little RTV or "right stuff" around the bolt holes when I install a head
gasket
to minimize this, but no big deal.
The screens are available from all the usual sources. When you replace it's
worthwhile improving the solder joint with a little added reinforcement. I
thread thin safety wire through the holes and around the pickup tube to make
a
stronger joint--vibration makes these buggers break.
________________________________
From: fot-bounces+billb=bnj.com@autox.team.net on behalf of Randall
Sent: Sun 5/4/2008 1:57 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] sump problems
> In the process of replacing the pan gasket on my TR3 I
> noticed that there is a drop of coolant that repeatedly
> collects on the left rear main cap bolt head.
Sounds more like a 'Figure 8' gasket weeping a bit to me. If it were mine,
I'd button it up and try first some fresh anti-freeze, then maybe some
"Aluma-seal"; before tearing it down to change the gasket.
> Also, I noticed that the metal screen filter on the oil pump
> pickup has torn loose from the spot where it was soldered to
> the pickup tube. There is now a hole in the screen about the
> size of a lima bean. Does anyone have an extra of these
> filters that they would be willing to send me right away for
> a reasonable price?
They are available new from TRF (100682, $30); all my originals are at least
as bad as yours. However, I was able to repair an original using a
technique I heard from Ken G. (I think). Thread several loops of copper or
stainless (safety) wire through the screen and around the tube, to support
the screen and keep it from vibrating. Then solder the broken ends back
into the original solder blob.
Randall
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