do you have any sign of water in the oil?
Racer Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Horstkorta" <vintage.racer@comcast.net>
To: <Fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 5:45 PM
Subject: [Fot] Engine Problem
> Hello:
>
>
>
> OK, here's a TR4 engine situation I'd like to receive some feedback on.
> During the winter layoff, no major engine changes just routine
> maintenance.
> Engine always started quickly and ran smoothly up and down rpm range while
> in the garage. However, at this past weekend's vintage race at Infineon
> Raceway, I encountered the following:
>
>
>
> 1. Saturday's first practice session, the car began hesitating at
> 4,000rpm and reluctantly would edge its way up to 5,000. Engine oil
> pressure and water temp normal
>
> 2. In paddock, checked fuel pressure with a gauge, it was high at
> 3.0
> lbs for my 1.75" stock SU carbs. Reset to 2.0.
>
> 3. Saturday's race, same problems. Checked fuel level in carb at
> the
> needle jet orifice without the "dome" on and fuel pump running. Level was
> uneven, one carb flooding the other low. Reset floats so even fuel level
> just below the orifice opening.
>
> 4. Sunday morning practice the problem was worse and now the engine
> would almost die around left hand turns but run strong around right hand
> turns. Checked everything from fuel pickup in fuel cell all the way up
> through the carbs, all seemed OK. However, the car would barely start,
> run
> badly then die.
>
> 5. Out of desperation we turned to the ignition system which is
> Mallory dual point dizzy and coil. Replaced coil - no change; replaced
> plugs - no change; checked timing - OK; replaced distributor with stock
> Lucas, engine started and ran fine. Huh??
>
> 6. Road test up a steep hill at full throttle and down a road, no
> problem except acceleration was not crisp.
>
> 7. Ran race and engine was steady around all corners but car was
> down
> on power and after three laps, water temp was higher than it normally runs
> but stable at 200 degrees. Four laps later sudden fluctuation of water
> temp
> gauge meant I'd lost water. Shut the engine off
>
> 8. Towed pack to pit, able to start the car and put it into the
> trailer, running OK but with a "rattling" sound from the engine.
>
>
>
> Back in the garage, inspection of the valve train showed nothing obvious.
> Removed plugs which were all black and sooty, turned engine over by hand
> then by the starter, no obvious problems or sounds. Ran a compression
> test
> with the following numbers: cylinder #1 160; #2 155; #3 210; #4
> 170. Also noticed a different mechanical sound from down in the engine
> when
> cranking for #3 compression test, not present when testing other
> cylinders.
>
>
>
>
> OK, so that is where I am right now. We (myself and two friends - one a
> long-time Triumph racer/builder and a the other a British car mechanic)
> initially felt this was a fuel problem, however, after the problem
> disappeared by changing the distributor, we're all a bit baffled. Next
> step
> is to remove the head and pan for inspection. Anyone experience a similar
> set of problems, ie, seemingly a fuel problem but turns out to be
> electrical? What would cause a dizzy to work around some turns and not
> the
> other? What would cause such a high number on cylinder #3? Thanks.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 1962 TR4
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