Siince the distributor is a vacuum retard type. The vacuum normally retards
the timeing from about 12 degrees before tdc to 4degrees atdc. Without the
retard connected the timing should be about 12 degrees btdc at idle speed.
when you rev the engine up, with all vacuum lines to the distributor
disconnected, you should get about 36 degrees total maximum mechanical
advance. You may be able to get away with up to 38 or 40 degrees, dependiing
on the compression ratio of the engine. You will have to slow down the idle
considerably when you advance the timing. That should make the engie run
cooler and have more power and be more responsive.
Greg Solow
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Franco" <gaf3@charter.net>
To: "Friends of triumph" <fot@autox.team.net>; <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 18, 2011 3:15 PM
Subject: [Fot] Hot Running 6
> Hi
> I just finished rebuilding a club members 74 TR6 that I had bored .060"
> over due to cylinder wall damage.
> The owner had the radiator cleaned out, provided a new water pump,
> thermostat, temp sending unit and so on.
> The car has a set of DGV Webers (downdraft) on it.
> There are a couple of issues now with the engine I'm trying to sort out.
>
> Engine runs on the warm side with the gauge between 1/2 and 3/4 some
> excursions to 3/4 when left idling for a _long_ time. When the engine is
> revved to 1,500-2,000 rpm it settles back down to 5/8ths on the gauge.
>
> * I suspected a faulty replacement temp sending unit and
> replaced it with one from my car and it brought the temp down
> slightly.
> * I also tried to burp the system by bleeding the air out at the
> sending unit but I can't seem to get it out. When I remove the
> sending unit there's just air.
> * Any better methods of getting air out of the head?? Doesn't
> seem to purge after thermal cycling the engine. New cap as well.
> * The replacement thermostat was a 165 deg. I suspect that it's
> higher than that. Can't measure actual coolant temp since I
> broke my Temp Tester.
> * My next step is to remove the thermostat.
>
> Engine backfires through the carbs cold when when snapping the throttle
> when the chokes are off and not quite warmed up. Not a problem at
> operating temp/No backfires.
>
> * Distributor is the vacuum retard type and the vacuum line is
> disconnected.
> * Base timing set at ~1deg BTDC
>
> Any Ideas?
> Thanks in Advance
> Glenn Franco
> Too Many TR's they keep multiplying
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