Frame is in pretty good shape. The rear end is welded and it does have bar on
the rear. I do plan to beef up the frame in the diff and shock area but it
doesn't seem like there is not much I can do to beef up the trailing arm.
These
Konis have a built in bump stop. Jim
________________________________
From: Robert M. Lang <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To:
sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116@att.net>
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Sent: Thu,
February 14, 2013 9:17:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Series 80 Koni adjustment
Hi,
I'm a long-time TR6 autocrosser.
My suggestion would be to go to full
stiff on the settings and then try to back
off 'till the car isn't completely
tail-happy.
You are much better off with stiff shocks / springs in the rear
than with a big
roll bar because with the roll bar you'll lift the inside
wheel and get wheel
spin (unless you have a Detroit locker or maybe a
Salisbury type). I know this
from experience. With a Quaife or open diff, you
will get wheel spin. I've done
the big bar on my street TR6 (used to run that
car in SCCA FSP) and with the
race car (SCCA F Prepared).
Stiff springs get
you less body roll, less "squat" on take-off at the expense of
making the
back a little bit more loose (depends on how stiff the springs are).
On rough
courses, the car will be really tail happy, but that's the tradeoff.
I hope
this helps.
rml
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