Make sure you do not have a Quinton Hazel clutch setup. They stick just like
you describe. Next, check the diameter of your clutch hose, it should be
bigger than your brake line. Clutch hoses need to be bigger to allow the
pressure to release quickly. If the master cylinder took the same size fitting
as before, it is probably correct for the clutch, it should have a bigger line
fitting than a master brake cylinder. An adjustable pushrod is useless. The
only way it would have any effect on the situation is if you adjusted it so
far that the piston is bottomed out in the slave cylinder and then you would
be putting constant pressure on the TOB, not good. TR 3-6 hydraulic clutch
systems will always, when in good condition, push the piston out as far as it
will go just by the small internal spring. It just keeps very light pressure
on the pushrod. If you lengthen the pushrod, all you do is push the piston
back into the slave cylinder, until you go so far as
to bottom it out.
________________________________
From: Mike Moore
<mmoore@wave1.net>
To: 'FOT' <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013
8:24 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school
At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If I
go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.
Problem started
after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as was
in car) slave is
stock from Roadster Factory.
Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and
pressure plate and contact disc
look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not
bent.
Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly
loose, I
can't shift easily.
Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?
I can drive 5
hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to waste
the time since
this one looks ok.
Thanks
Mike
Michael T. Moore, CPA
2007 West 32nd
Street
Erie, PA 16508
Phone: 814-868-4831 ext 103
Fax:
814-864-7383
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