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I am hoping to upgrade the front suspension on my (street/AutoX) TR3 this
summer by changing out the upper A-arm, vertical link and trunnion to TR6
parts. I will use "the" Jag ball joint and shim it as required. Due to the
complexity of shortening the upper A-arm or moving the inner pivot point
inward, I am considering welding an extension to the upper A-Arm ball joint
mounting tabs on the inside to mount the ball joint further inward and
produce a similar result to shortening the A-arm. I have not removed my TR3
A-Arms yet, but it appears there is room to move the ball joint inward at
least an inch in this way. I know I can't go as far as those of you who
have shortened the upper arms, but it seems like it could be a decent
compromise. I am concerned though, as this seems too easy. None of you
guys have done it. Instead you have shortening the upper arms which, from
what I have read, is challenging, as is moving the inner pivot point and
retaining substantial structure.
So, the question is. . . . . . . Why is simply moving the ball joint further
inboard not a good solution? What am I missing?
Thanks in advance,
Jack
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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>I am hoping to upgrade the front suspension on my =
(street/AutoX) TR3 this summer by changing out the upper A-arm, vertical =
link and trunnion to TR6 parts. I will use “the” Jag =
ball joint and shim it as required. Due to the complexity of =
shortening the upper A-arm or moving the inner pivot point inward, I am =
considering welding an extension to the upper A-Arm ball joint mounting =
tabs on the inside to mount the ball joint further inward and produce a =
similar result to shortening the A-arm. I have not removed my TR3 =
A-Arms yet, but it appears there is room to move the ball joint inward =
at least an inch in this way. I know I can’t go as far as =
those of you who have shortened the upper arms, but it seems like it =
could be a decent compromise. I am concerned though, as this seems =
too easy. None of you guys have done it. Instead you have =
shortening the upper arms which, from what I have read, is challenging, =
as is moving the inner pivot point and retaining substantial =
structure.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>So, the =
question is. . . . . . . Why is simply moving the ball joint further =
inboard not a good solution? What am I =
missing?<br><br></span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>Thanks in =
advance,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>Jack<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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