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[Healeys] 100 stamped aluminium trim screws

Subject: [Healeys] 100 stamped aluminium trim screws
From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2017 02:49:23 -0500
References: <488416443.3962672.1483759156719.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net>
Ken, might be what you are looking for from the 2017 Austin Healey Concours 
Guidelines released yesterday:

"Door Seals and Alloy Trim Plates   

On BN1/2's, door seals consisted of one hard "Furflex"-covered rubber bulb on 
the forward door pillar edge with the tail of the furflex glued to the back 
edge of the inside kick panel, but as it reached the dashboard mounting flange, 
it was notched to skip over to the outboard edge of the flange where it was 
sandwiched between the windshield post bracket and the door pillar edge to 
continue to the top of the door pillar, with the top end hidden behind the 
scuttle seal assembly.  A second strip of furflex was sandwiched between the 
door trim panel and door casing at the front of the door, and a third and 
fourth strip was fitted to the back edge of the door, one above and one below 
the door lock aperture.  The lower edge of the door was sealed by a strip of 
quarter-round rubber along the outer lower edge of the door casing.  Furflex 
generally matched the interior trim panel colour, though shades may have 
varied.  On blue interiors, it was a light gray color.

On BN1/2s and Longbridge-built BN4s, screws on the aluminum door shut facing 
have the same head as those used to attach the door trim panels (countersunk 
chromed #6 oval Phillips head sheet metal screws as opposed to the unique style 
used on the 6 cylinder cars).  From the introduction of the Abingdon BN6 
through possibly the end of BJ7 production, the shut facing was fastened with 
small, #4 truss-headed Phillips screws with very small cross-head screwdriver 
slots.  Starting around 1963 or 1964 the screw head was changed from Phillips 
to Pozidriv. This type of head has been seen on an original BJ8 built in 1966. 
On late BJ8s some cars have been found with a "washer" molded into the screw 
head. It is suggested that you look at the predominant type of screw head on 
your car to try to determine which style was original. This will only work if 
you have good reason to suspect the trim screws are original, or mostly so. 
(See Photo ? Figure VI-2). 

On BN1/2s and Longbridge BN4 models the door shut plate has grained vinyl 
piping, which usually approximately matches the colour of the car exterior, 
separating it from the rear fender.  On later 6-cylinder models the door shut 
plate has black, grained vinyl piping separating it from the rear fender.


On the 4-cylinder cars, the door shut face piping simply tucks under the alloy 
trim plate as it reaches the top edge of the trim plate. "

Randy

Randy Hicks
Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee
AHCA 100 Registrar
www.austinhealey100m.com <http://www.austinhealey100m.com/>

> On Jan 6, 2017, at 10:19 PM, goldengt at cal.net wrote:
> 
> I am confused by the Roger Moment articles, Moss catalog, and BCS catalog on 
> the proper screws for the aluminium sill and shut face plates for a BN2. 
> Should it be #6 or #4 and should it be pan head, truss head, or pozidrive 
> with integral flange?
> I did #4 truss head on my BJ8 which might be wrong.
> Thanks,
> Ken Freese
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