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You don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8 but=
what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons=20
Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under
Sent from my iPad
> On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:=
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> One more vote for a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is balanced and ni=
trided, but with a stock "damper". No issues reving safely north of 7,000. =
Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for high rpm.
>=20
> I have Pauter rods, a little heavier than Carillo's, but have larger bolt=
s. (5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly)=20
>=20
> I'm running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone out=
of business.
>=20
> If you are going the custom rods/custom pistons route, consider having th=
e pistons made with a shorter compression height than stock, and longer rods=
to match.
>=20
> Jason
>=20
>> On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> w=
rote:
>> I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided, with a vibration d=
amper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently. I=E2=80=99m not s=
ure you need billet on a GT6. Never had a bottom end failure.
>> Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts that need to be torqu=
ed by stretch gauge. If you use the wrong lube on them you can overtorque t=
hem easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 each (ask me how I know).
>> Pistons - I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with Wiseco making them for me - rea=
sonable price, good specs, will make them any way you want them.
>>=20
>> On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>=
wrote:
>>=20
>> Hi all.
>> Am looking for info on GT6 billet crankshafts. Also looking for opinion=
s on connecting rods and forged pistons. Starting with the bottom end this t=
ime..
>> Thanks . P.J.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>=20
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen@me.=
com
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>=20
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>=20
>>=20
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>=20
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>=20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">You don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in th=
e 2litre motor mine revs to 8 but what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and t=
hen use TR 6 pistons <div>Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under<br><br><div=
dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPad</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D=
"cite">On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <fot@autox.team.net=
> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"=
ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"auto"><div>One more vote for a properly prepared s=
tock crank. Mine is balanced and nitrided, but with a stock "damper". N=
o issues reving safely north of 7,000. Auxiliary oiling to the front m=
ain bearings is a must for high rpm.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div d=
ir=3D"auto">I have Pauter rods, a little heavier than Carillo's, but h=
ave larger bolts. (5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly) <=
/div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I'm running Venolia forge=
d pistons, they work well but have since gone out of business.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">If you are going the custom rods/custo=
m pistons route, consider having the pistons made with a shorter compr=
ession height than stock, and longer rods to match.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><=
br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Jason<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"au=
to"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scot=
t Janzen via Fot <<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net";>fot@autox.team.ne=
t</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:=
0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"word-w=
rap:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">I run a stock crank, crack test=
ed, balanced, nitrided, with a vibration damper - no problem revving into th=
e sevens, consistently. I=E2=80=99m not sure you need billet on a GT6.=
Never had a bottom end failure.<div>Rods - Carillo - only drawback is=
little tiny bolts that need to be torqued by stretch gauge. If you us=
e the wrong lube on them you can overtorque them easily, and the little bugg=
ers cost about $40 each (ask me how I know).</div><div>Pistons - I=E2=80=99v=
e had good luck with Wiseco making them for me - reasonable price, good spec=
s, will make them any way you want them.<br><div><br><div>On Dec 5, 2021, at=
10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"=
target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div=
><br><div><div dir=3D"ltr">Hi all.<div> Am looking for info on GT6 bill=
et crankshafts. Also looking for opinions on connecting rods and forge=
d pistons. Starting with the bottom end this time..</div><div> &=
nbsp; &=
nbsp; Thanks . P.J.</div></div>
_______________________________________________<br><a href=3D"mailto:fot@aut=
ox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">fot@autox.team.net</a><br>=
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