Following a thread some months ago, to overcome a slight leak in the
steering box, I have filled it with steering box grease.
My question is, as the steering idler does NOT leak can I leave it filled
with oil or are there problems with having the box containing grease and the
idler oil ?
Thanks in advance
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 10:37:43 -0500
Subject: Thermo-electric choke on 60 BT7
Please excuse me if this message has shown up on the list previously.
Due to an email glitch, I'm not sure what was getting sent and what
wasn't.
I have recently become the owner of a 60 MkI. Altho' it has some serious
metal work to be done, I intend to try to save it. It has the weird
thermo-electric choke set-up still on it. Has any one out there restored
that system on their car, and made it work properly. Don't think I've
ever seen one at a car show before.
Allen Williams
63 BJ7
60 BT7 the "Fred Flintstone Special"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 12:04:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Thermo-electric choke on 60 BT7
In a message dated 5/1/01 8:41:58 AM, awill@bama.ua.edu writes:
<< Has any one out there restored
that system on their car, and made it work properly. Don't think I've
ever seen one at a car show before. >>
For all intents and purposes, it's the same as the thermal choke on Jaguars
of the period. Find a good Jaguar mechanic who's used to working on Mark II
and E-type engines and he should be able to fix it, put an electric bypass
switch on it (way it's set up on my MkII), or remove it and replace it with a
standard pull-choke.
Cheers
gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 15:40:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Thermo-electric choke on 60 BT7
The electric choke are rebuildadle the biggest problem was the thermal switch
was not available for a long time, but since they are available now there is
no problem rebuilding the auto choke carbs.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 16:45:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Thermo-electric choke on 60 BT7
Allen wrote:
> I have recently become the owner of a 60 MkI. Altho' it has some serious
>
> metal work to be done, I intend to try to save it. It has the weird
> thermo-electric choke set-up still on it. Has any one out there restored
>
> that system on their car, and made it work properly. Don't think I've
> ever seen one at a car show before.
> Allen Williams
As David Nock has stated, the thermostat switch is again available. The
starting carb is rebuildable and can be adjusted for the needs of the
engine.
With the engine cold, the thermo switch operates a solenoid plunger,
activating the enriched mixture to feed via the tubes and the cold engine
can start. The thermostat is adjusted to a preset temperature, where as the
engine warms up, the switch deactivates the solenoid plunger, and the
enriched starting unit shuts off the richer mixture flow. This leaves the
two HD6 carbs to carry on with the job by themselves.
The only drawback to this system is the fact that while the engine is
warming, but has not reached a full heat saturated temperature and the
starting carb deactivates, there is an in between range where if you step on
the throttle, the engine may cough back through the carbs, indicating a weak
mixture. Heck, BJ8's are notorious for spitting back through the carbs when
the manual choke is released too soon!
Alternately, if you adjust the system richer, the mixture will be too rich
when the engine is fully warmed up.
The best scenario is to adjust the carbs for the best running when the choke
is fully deactivated and the engine is at full operating temperature, and to
tread lightly on the throttle when the switch first deactivates the starting
carb, 'till it's fully warmed.
Jaguars of the 1950's used this system extensively, and you rarely hear them
having problems, beyond a possibly failed temp. sensor on the engine
cylinder head.
I would urge you to keep the car as original as possible. To replace the
system with a manual choke arrangement seems to me to be the wimps way
out!<grin>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DavidNLonsdale at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 17:13:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Steering Lube
Dear Greg,
Are you sure this is wise? The grease will not settle to the bottom of the
steering box with gravity. If you spin the steering wheel fast, the grease
will come out of the bearings and will not be replenished as it will stick to
the box wall.
Years ago I had a Jaguar with independent rear suspension. The hubs were
carried in an aluminium housing. I filled them with grease. Both hub bearings
failed after about 5000 miles. All the grease had spun off the bearings. I
later read the manual and discovered why the carriers were fitted with an oil
level plug, not a grease nipple.
By the way, I am keen to have some carburettor data off a BN4. Could you
please tell me the distance between the carburettor centres, and any details,
such as a diagram or digital image, of the throttle spindle arrangement.
Regards,
David Lonsdale, UK
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 14:26:33 -0700
Subject: Electronic Ignition...
There was a thread earlier on the subject of electronic ignition failure.
Specifically the Pertronics units. Has anyone found this happening to them
and what are the symptoms other than complete failure, which is obvious. My
car has been missing slightly and I have gone through everthing and it's
pointing to the ignitor. I seem to recall someone mentioning "missing" and
when they put back their old points, problem went away. Any thoughts....Neil
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 17:40:23 -0400
Subject: Tommy bar for Shelley jack
Shelley is absolutely broken hearted without Tommy.
I need to a Tommy bar for the Shelley jack handle in my BN7's trunk
(boot). I am willing to reward greatly including a bottle of rare
Chinaco tequila. That's how serious I am. It's all I need, I think, to
complete my concours car.
If you have one, I suddenly will become very grateful.
Bob Denton
foxriverkid@earthlink.net -or- finewatch@aol.com -or- (800)669-7808
during the day.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Keith <mr-reeds at home.com>
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 14:55:00 -0800
Subject: Sticky BJ8 vacuum brake servo
Hi list,
Pardon me if this has been recently discussed (I'm fairly new to the list).
Was wondering if anyone else has had my *reoccuring* problem:
A sticky vacuum brake servo. Mine has a tendency to stick in the
'assist' direction which has the effect of locking-on the
brakes,...very disconcerting when try to go somewhere. The brake
system otherwise work fine (although not 'easy') with the vacuum line
disconnected and plugged (obviously not the preferable means of
operation).
I recently rebuilt the servo unit (original late BJ8 Girling unit)
with the rebuild kit available and checked out everything
mechanically internally (seems ok), but after reinstalling and the
unit and driving the car, the problem persists. I can sometimes get
the brakes to release by tapping hard on the brake pedal, but this
doesn't always work. I suspect the large leather-gasketed disc
inside the vacuum chest may be sticking, but haven't ruled out other
posibilities such as weak return springs (vacuum and/or hydraulic),
or a plugged (ambient) air intake. The shop manual says to replace
the little intake air filter unit after every re-lining of the brakes
(to my knowledge, it has never been replaced), but the problem is, I
haven't seen these units available in any of the parts catalogs and
there was none in my rebuild kit. Can these elements be cleaned? If
so, how and with what? Are there any other air filter elements from
industrial supply houses that may work as a replacement? What other
parts in the servo unit should I check/trouble-shoot for this
problem? I really don't want to replace the unit with a new one
(~$500) obviously if I can get the old one to work.
I hope some of you folks can give me some pointers or advise on this.
Thanks.
Alan Keith
'67 BJ8
--
Recycle your old pets ....make bagpipes. :-)
Maker & player of a whole slew of the smelly beasts.
----------------------------------------------------
Visit Alan's Homepage -"Mr. Reeds of Cyberspace" -
http://members.home.net/mr-reeds
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From AHMCMLIX at aol.com
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 20:50:52 EDT
Subject: Italy
Hi Folks:
Going to Italy the end of May. Would like to connect with Healey folks while I
am there. Interested in knowing if they have a club in Italy?
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 17:58:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Electronic Ignition...
Neil, et al,
I have the Pertronix unit and experienced intermittent missing. At least one
Lister pointed
out that "if the Pertronix fails, you walk ..."
Finally inspected the distributor with the engine running, in a dark garage,
and there was
stray electrical activity around the dist. cap. Replaced with genuine Lucas
cap and car
runs fine now.
Note that the cap I replaced was only a year or two old, probably a Bosch.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 2:26 PM
Subject: Electronic Ignition...
>
> There was a thread earlier on the subject of electronic ignition failure.
> Specifically the Pertronics units. Has anyone found this happening to them
> and what are the symptoms other than complete failure, which is obvious. My
> car has been missing slightly and I have gone through everthing and it's
> pointing to the ignitor. I seem to recall someone mentioning "missing" and
> when they put back their old points, problem went away. Any thoughts....Neil
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Seigrist <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 18:03:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Sticky BJ8 vacuum brake servo
Alan -
Sticky brakes on a servo assisted car can be caused by
four things (ordered in rank of probability, my bet is
#2):
1. The rubber sealing ring provided with most servo
rebuild kits are typically too thick (this is the foam
rubber that goes underneath the leather sealing ring
on the big vacuum piston). Ideally, the thickness of
this rubber ring should be cut to about 2/3 - 1/2 of
its normal thickness. Just take a pair of scissors
and cut the thing down the middle. It sounds crude,
but it'll work to stop the vacuum piston from
sticking.
2. The caliper pucks (pistons) on your front disc
brakes can become corroded around the outside,
sticking against the rubber caliper puck sealing ring
and sticking closed. There is a very good chance that
this is be your problem (even if it doesn't stick with
the servo disconnected - when the servo is connected,
it puts more pressure on the system... possibly
causing the pucks to stick only when the servo is
connected). This is especially true if your car sits
(or has sat) for long periods of time or isn't driven
regularly. Healeys originally were supplied with
chrome plated pucks, which inevitably corrode
underneath the chrome plating over time and cause the
pucks to stick shut (tapping the brakes will loosen
them if this is the problem). If this is your
problem, buy new stainless steel pucks (everyone sells
them, not too expensive), not the chrome plated ones,
and also install a caliper rebuild kit while you're at
it (it's very easy to do).
3. The main servo casing is dented. If this is the
case, you can't fix it. Replace the servo.
4. Your rubber brake lines are old and have
gunk/loose rubber in them. This is unlikely, but does
happen.
Good luck!
Alan
'66 BJ8, '53 BN1
--- Alan Keith <mr-reeds@home.com> wrote:
>
> Hi list,
> Pardon me if this has been recently discussed (I'm
> fairly new to the list).
> Was wondering if anyone else has had my *reoccuring*
> problem:
> A sticky vacuum brake servo. Mine has a tendency to
> stick in the
> 'assist' direction which has the effect of
> locking-on the
> brakes,...very disconcerting when try to go
> somewhere. The brake
> system otherwise work fine (although not 'easy')
> with the vacuum line
> disconnected and plugged (obviously not the
> preferable means of
> operation).
>
> I recently rebuilt the servo unit (original late BJ8
> Girling unit)
> with the rebuild kit available and checked out
> everything
> mechanically internally (seems ok), but after
> reinstalling and the
> unit and driving the car, the problem persists. I
> can sometimes get
> the brakes to release by tapping hard on the brake
> pedal, but this
> doesn't always work. I suspect the large
> leather-gasketed disc
> inside the vacuum chest may be sticking, but haven't
> ruled out other
> posibilities such as weak return springs (vacuum
> and/or hydraulic),
> or a plugged (ambient) air intake. The shop manual
> says to replace
> the little intake air filter unit after every
> re-lining of the brakes
> (to my knowledge, it has never been replaced), but
> the problem is, I
> haven't seen these units available in any of the
> parts catalogs and
> there was none in my rebuild kit. Can these
> elements be cleaned? If
> so, how and with what? Are there any other air
> filter elements from
> industrial supply houses that may work as a
> replacement? What other
> parts in the servo unit should I check/trouble-shoot
> for this
> problem? I really don't want to replace the unit
> with a new one
> (~$500) obviously if I can get the old one to work.
>
> I hope some of you folks can give me some pointers
> or advise on this.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Alan Keith
> '67 BJ8
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 21:16:13 -0400
Subject: Title Question
Hello Folks,
I recently purchased a 60 BT7 from out of state that is in a million pieces.
I am having trouble transferring the title here in Florida because the tag
office insists that I must wait until the car is completely back together
again before they will transfer it. Of course this is ridiculous. No way
am I going to spend thousands of dollars and wait several years only to find
out I have some title problem. The PO has clear title and has owned the car
for over 30 years. Anyone else been through this? Other states with the
same idiotic rules? I can't seem to make them understand that there is no
difference between seeing the VIN plate now or seeing it in a couple of
years when it is back on the car. There is no way they are going to know in
either case whether the car is pieced back together, stolen and chopped,
etc. I even explained that I had the BMIHT Certificate with all the
matching numbers. Deaf ears.
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 09:24:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Bugeye Clutch Qustions
Brian Chapin wrote:
> I recently purchased a 1961 Bugeye Sprite.
> <desciption of clutch problems snipped>
> Anyone out there have experience with this?
You might want to ask the Spridget list, too.
To subscribe, see:
http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
HTH,
Kent McLean, '56 BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 11:30:14 +1000
Subject: Re: Rear Ends
G'day Don and Fred
Great anecdote about the late Jayne.
Now if my memory serves me right, beneath that dumb blond exterior didn't Jane
have a couple of university degrees and could speak five languages?
She certainly saw through you Don.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> Fred Hunter 1/05/01 5:43:12 >>>
> Reminds me of when I worked for a Standard Station at the corner of Sunset
> and Barrington back in 1960. A beautiful lady wanted her car lubed and oil
> changed.
>
> When she came to get it she asked "Did you check my rear end?"
>
> I said, "Ma'am, your rear end is just fine!"
>
> She got mad as hell. Told the boss. I almost got fired.
>
> He told me who she was. It was Jane Mansfield.
>
> Don
> BN7
Don:
I love it! Come clean, now...that REALLY happen?
Jane Mansfield?
DUUUUDE! That's too cool!
FH
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 21:38:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Title Question
Actually not a bad problem. Tell Florida to stuff it. Look in Hemmings for one
of the Alabama dealers who specialize in "undocumented titles. For $125 or $150
you will get, by mail, plates and a title for the car. That puts it in your
name. When it's done then you get your Florida tags and title.
Bob denton
Heard wrote:
> Hello Folks,
> I recently purchased a 60 BT7 from out of state that is in a million pieces.
> I am having trouble transferring the title here in Florida because the tag
> office insists that I must wait until the car is completely back together
> again before they will transfer it. Of course this is ridiculous. No way
> am I going to spend thousands of dollars and wait several years only to find
> out I have some title problem. The PO has clear title and has owned the car
> for over 30 years. Anyone else been through this? Other states with the
> same idiotic rules? I can't seem to make them understand that there is no
> difference between seeing the VIN plate now or seeing it in a couple of
> years when it is back on the car. There is no way they are going to know in
> either case whether the car is pieced back together, stolen and chopped,
> etc. I even explained that I had the BMIHT Certificate with all the
> matching numbers. Deaf ears.
>
> Thanks,
> Heard Saxon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Seigrist <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 20:22:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: It's on the road, but...
Mike -
1. BN1s and BN2s leak. It's normal. The BN1 tranny
(I assume that's what's on it) does not have a modern
front oil seal and it leaks. It's normal - replace
the tranny oil often. Making sure the proper paper
gaskets are installed and sufficiently coated with
permatex silicone gasket sealer will serve to help
alot (but not absolutely necessary). The oil dribbles
down the inside of the bell housing and will not foul
your clutch. No worries.
2. Considering the short distance you drove, the rear
end is making noise now because you probably galled
the ring & pinion (i.e. scored the gear tooth
surfaces). Bearings are probably fine if you only
drove it a few blocks. The galling should be nothing
major, and as long as the noise doesn't bother you,
you won't have to replace it. The ring and pinions
are pretty strong. You can get good used rear ends
for BN2s (they're pretty cheap & plentiful)... but
only replace it if the rear end whine bothers you.
Good luck!
Alan
'53 BN1, '66 BJ8
--- michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham@juno.com> wrote:
>
> Finally. Car went down the road first time Saturday.
> Been in restoration
> for...a very long time.Some problems.FORGOT TO PUT
> OIL IN REAR END! Went
> 3-4 blocks. Noise!Figured it out , put oil in- much
> quieter, but still
> audible. What did I wreck- bearings or gears?
> Transmission blowing oil-
> drooling out of bell housing at a good clip. What's
> the chance of it
> getting on the clutch? I don't see
> seals-specifically called out for the
> front of ( 3 speed, don't ask) tranny, least that
> any of my sources sell.
> Gross embarassment to friends/relatives who had
> Champagne, etc. set up
> for event.
> TIA for anything that will help save face.
> Mike Gougeon 55 BN2 (except trans)
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 23:03:37 -0500
Subject: Body work web sights
Hi Listers,
Can I get a few web sights that might be able to help show me how the
shut plate areas around the doors of a 60 Bt7 should look after reassembly
but before the aluminum trim plates are installed.
My car is missing a lot of metal in that area and its a little confusing
with out a pattern to know how it should be. The sill plates are pretty
much gone also, any pictures would really be appreciated.
As far as sheet metal goes is Kilmartin the only way to go, what about
SC etc.from Moss. My fenders are reusable but its the under
structure(sills,shut plate, hinge plates, outriggers) that needs attention.
And I don't want to have to play to much with poor fitting parts unless
totally necessary.
Thanks in advance, Mark
60 Bt7 ( 5 yr. program)
58 MgA
76 MgB
60 MgA (retirement project)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 00:40:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Thermo-electric choke on 60 BT7
In a message dated 5/1/01 1:52:50 PM, rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca writes:
<< Jaguars of the 1950's used this system extensively, and you rarely hear
them
having problems, beyond a possibly failed temp. sensor on the engine
cylinder head.
I would urge you to keep the car as original as possible. To replace the
system with a manual choke arrangement seems to me to be the wimps way
out!<grin> >>
I've had experience with most permutations of this system and would add a
couple of thoughts: First, from having helped rebuild and then traveled 1400
miles with the concours BN7 of Alex Zanini, who chose to preserve his thermal
system: Once you have started the car, you want to make sure you let it run
until it's fully warm before shutting it down (we got in the cars to go a few
blocks from the motel to get gas our second day on the road and Alex had a
hell of a time getting the car restarted after he filled up the car and
wanted to go to breakfast).
Second, same experience with my MarkII which has had the thermal switch
bypassed and replaced by an electrical activation switch, the thermal choke
is really important in getting the car started, and needs to be left engaged
for just a bit, but if you switch it off, and then the car stalls, you are
going to have to sit and wait 5-10 minutes before you can start the car
again.
Bottom line, when they are adjusted properly, they are terrific in getting
the car started, but experience with my just-post thermal choke BN7 suggests
that the manual choke is a lot more controllable (you can use it to alter
mixture as well as choking, for example) and very dependable for getting the
cars started. I think the system was just a little too complicated for its
own good. Give me a nice choke knob and cable anytime.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 14:59:36 +1000
Subject: The Works Big Healeys by Peter Browning
G'day
If anyone is interested in a new copy of "The Works Big Healeys" by Peter
Browning for $69.95 Aust or around $34.00 US (plus postage) have a look at:-
http://www.pitstop.net.au/pitstop.nsf/plu/0?open&pid=7596
The book is worth adding to your collection of AH books and while it does focus
heavily of the BMC Works cars and just touches on the DHMC competition cars I
would recommended it.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alex Hope <ahope at jaques.com.au>
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 18:34:09 +1000
Subject: Removing the knobs. 100 to 3000 Mk2 light and wiper switches.
Hi guys.
My crusty 100-6 dash is about to get a freshen up.
I'm having a lot of trouble pushing in the pins that secure the knobs to
the light and wiper switches. Assume it's a combination of crud and
rust that is causing the problem. Don't want to break the knobs or ruin
the switches.
Any advice on offer ?
Alex Hope
Australia
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 05:36:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Title Question
hi heard-
check into the "antique" plate situation in your state. in texas, antique
plates do not require a safety inspection. it's the safety inspection rule
that gets you . if you already have a title from another state, an additional
title from alabama isn't going to do you any good. good luck !!
Arjay wrote:
>
>
> Actually not a bad problem. Tell Florida to stuff it. Look in Hemmings for one
> of the Alabama dealers who specialize in "undocumented titles. For $125 or
>$150
> you will get, by mail, plates and a title for the car. That puts it in your
> name. When it's done then you get your Florida tags and title.
>
> Bob denton
>
> Heard wrote:
>
> > Hello Folks,
> > I recently purchased a 60 BT7 from out of state that is in a million pieces.
> > I am having trouble transferring the title here in Florida because the tag
> > office insists that I must wait until the car is completely back together
> > again before they will transfer it. Of course this is ridiculous. No way
> > am I going to spend thousands of dollars and wait several years only to find
> > out I have some title problem. The PO has clear title and has owned the car
> > for over 30 years. Anyone else been through this? Other states with the
> > same idiotic rules? I can't seem to make them understand that there is no
> > difference between seeing the VIN plate now or seeing it in a couple of
> > years when it is back on the car. There is no way they are going to know in
> > either case whether the car is pieced back together, stolen and chopped,
> > etc. I even explained that I had the BMIHT Certificate with all the
> > matching numbers. Deaf ears.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Heard Saxon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 05:44:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Italy
bob-
you are checking on the wrong brand in italy -- check out the black horse.
jerry
AHMCMLIX@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi Folks:
>
> Going to Italy the end of May. Would like to connect with Healey folks while
>I
> am there. Interested in knowing if they have a club in Italy?
>
> Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 07:06:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Title Question
Heard,
Title and registration are separate in Kentucky. Normally what we do on
project cars is apply for a title only. That secures ownership and basically
a chassis with VIN passes inspection. After completion we go back and apply
for registration which gives us the licensee plate.
Maybe Florida can allow a title only transfer easier than a title and
registration, just a thought. If this problem can't be resolved perhaps you
could transfer your Kentucky title to a new Kentucky title in your name to
secure ownership. That does not require any vehicle inspection and can be
done by mail.
Let me know if I can help.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 09:01:07 -0700
Subject: WIND-WINGS
Hello,
Does anyone know where I can pick up a set of "Wind-Wings" (Not e-bay)?
They are those triangle shaped Plexiglas windows that clip onto the windshield
of
a 100 and supposedly stop the constant wind lashing.
Brian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 12:12:09 EDT
Subject: Re: WIND-WINGS
In a message dated 5/2/01 9:04:20 AM, brianmix@home.com writes:
<<
Does anyone know where I can pick up a set of "Wind-Wings" (Not e-bay)?
They are those triangle shaped Plexiglas windows that clip onto the
windshield of
a 100 and supposedly stop the constant wind lashing. >>
You have a bit of a contradiction, there -- Since the 100's had dismountable
windshields, I don't believe anyone ever made or makes wind-wings for them,
and I'm not sure how you would mount them if you had them, because of the
construction of the windshield posts, pivots, etc.
On the other hand, if you're talking about a 100-6 (or a 3000 roadster) the
windwings that are sold by Moss and others work just fine. They have clips
that are screwed under the existing screws on the windshield frame -- no
holes to be drilled -- and when they're folded flat even fit under the
sidescreens. They do seem to help a bit, as well.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 12:17:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Sticky BJ8 vacuum brake servo
Alan,
Your problem sounds like a mis-alignment between the vacuum chamber and the
cylinder. You may have to remove the unit and "selectively torque" the
three bolts holding the two pieces together until the leather-lipped piston
moves completely freely, and jumps all the way out of the vacuum chamber
when you release it after compressing. Another thing I have found very
helpful for intermittant sticking is to back off the brake adjusters 1/4
turn, or one click, to give the brake shoes a little more distance to travel
between full on and full off. This back-feeds slightly more fluid to the
servo when the brakes are released, and gives the activating piston a bit
more travel in the "release" direction.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Keith" <mr-reeds@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 6:55 PM
Subject: Sticky BJ8 vacuum brake servo
>
> Hi list,
> Pardon me if this has been recently discussed (I'm fairly new to the
list).
> Was wondering if anyone else has had my *reoccuring* problem:
> A sticky vacuum brake servo. Mine has a tendency to stick in the
> 'assist' direction which has the effect of locking-on the
> brakes,...very disconcerting when try to go somewhere. The brake
> system otherwise work fine (although not 'easy') with the vacuum line
> disconnected and plugged (obviously not the preferable means of
> operation).
>
> I recently rebuilt the servo unit (original late BJ8 Girling unit)
> with the rebuild kit available and checked out everything
> mechanically internally (seems ok), but after reinstalling and the
> unit and driving the car, the problem persists. I can sometimes get
> the brakes to release by tapping hard on the brake pedal, but this
> doesn't always work. I suspect the large leather-gasketed disc
> inside the vacuum chest may be sticking, but haven't ruled out other
> posibilities such as weak return springs (vacuum and/or hydraulic),
> or a plugged (ambient) air intake. The shop manual says to replace
> the little intake air filter unit after every re-lining of the brakes
> (to my knowledge, it has never been replaced), but the problem is, I
> haven't seen these units available in any of the parts catalogs and
> there was none in my rebuild kit. Can these elements be cleaned? If
> so, how and with what? Are there any other air filter elements from
> industrial supply houses that may work as a replacement? What other
> parts in the servo unit should I check/trouble-shoot for this
> problem? I really don't want to replace the unit with a new one
> (~$500) obviously if I can get the old one to work.
>
> I hope some of you folks can give me some pointers or advise on this.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Alan Keith
> '67 BJ8
> --
> Recycle your old pets ....make bagpipes. :-)
> Maker & player of a whole slew of the smelly beasts.
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Visit Alan's Homepage -"Mr. Reeds of Cyberspace" -
> http://members.home.net/mr-reeds
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dyaarl anderson <dyaarl at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 14:20:41 -0400
Subject: Title Question
I had a problem in Jacksonville getting a Florida Title for a non
running TR3. I went to tag agency and they told me I need a Notarized
bill of sale , a Title or registration and have a police officer come to
my home and verify my Vin number. I called the JSO and within a few
minutes a officer arrived and sighed off to my Vin Number and then back
to tag agency and presto a title.
Dyaarl
BN4
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature which
had a name of smime.p7s]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 12:55:12 -0700
Subject: Golden Gate AHC web site
The Golden Gate Austin-Healey Club web site, listing Healey events in
the Bay Area, Central Valley and Northern California, has been updated
and can be accessed at www.jtpr-inc.com/ggahc
John Trifari 1955 BN1/1966 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 18:20:49 EDT
Subject: fenders off
In the process of doing a paint job, I have pulled fenders and doors off of
my car. Amazingly found only a small bit of bondo in each of the doglegs. The
drivers door is completely untouched, no dents, dings or filler. Not bad for
a 45 year old car! My question is what else (non paint related) should I take
care of before I put those fenders back on? Is now a good time to fool with
heater and fresh air hoses? Just trying to be efficient. I should have some
pictures up next week. TIA, Scott McPherson
Scott McPherson
BN4 (stripped)
BT7 sold(again)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 11:01:24 +1000
Subject: Pain in the neck
G'day
Sorry to be a pain in the neck but the IT boffins have just change our email
system and I'm checking that my +ves are still talking to the -ves.
To satisfy my ego, if anyone really needs to know my email address it's as
follows:-
patrick.quinn@det.nsw.edu.au
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 21:06:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Removing the knobs. 100 to 3000 Mk2 light and wiper
Hi Alex,
Tough problem that one.
If the dash is still in the car you are going to have a hard time. I was
successful with an original BN2 heater knob after I immersed the knob in
penetrating oil for several days then squeezed the lock button in with a pair of
pliers and a short piece of coat hanger wire. Amazingly after the knob was
pulled
off the little button popped back out when I tapped on the hex switch drive.
Good luck.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Alex Hope wrote:
> Hi guys.
>
> My crusty 100-6 dash is about to get a freshen up.
>
> I'm having a lot of trouble pushing in the pins that secure the knobs to
> the light and wiper switches. Assume it's a combination of crud and
> rust that is causing the problem. Don't want to break the knobs or ruin
> the switches.
>
> Any advice on offer ?
>
> Alex Hope
> Australia
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 18:09:15 -0700
Subject: question on lubricating BN1 wiper motor and gearbox bearings
One of the chores -excuse me: opportunities - that comes with
resurrecting a long-immobile BN1 is making the wipers work again. The
motor wouldn't run so I took the top off the gearbox. There was some
pasty yellowish stuff inside, about the consistency of grainy window
putty - hard in the corners and softer in the middle. I suppose that
47 years ago it was some sort of lubricating grease. Freed of the
gearbox the motor decided to work. After overnight soaks in kerosene
the yellow stuff released its hold on the gears and gearbox. I looked
at the bearings in the gearbox. One is a brass or bronze sleeve
bearing, the other a double roller bearing setup with lots of little
loose rollers. With luck I'll get everything back together properly.
Here's my question: Both the motor and gearbox plain bearings appear
to have a provision for lubrication. There is a shaft in both cases
that leads from outside to the center of the plain bearings. These
shafts are closed at the outer end by what may be a ball bearing or
simply a rounded end plug. I can't tell because I haven't been able
to budge them with some gentle pushing. The shop manual doesn't even
mention lubricating anything in the wiper system except the ends of
the wiper arms where they fit into the blades. So the manual is no
help at all. I can get to the inside of the gearbox bearing and
grease it with the best moly-laden grease and hope for the best, but
maybe there is a better way, one that would let me get some fresh
lubrication to the motor bearing, too? If there are end plugs there,
maybe I could pull them, inject some lube, and close the holes with a
threaded plug? If there are spring loaded ball bearings sealing the
hole I can apply more persuasive measures to make them move again.
I imagine that someone has done this job before and found a good
solution, or maybe your wiper assembly wasn't as frozen up as mine.
At any rate I need some advice on how to proceed.
-Roland
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Eli <eke at attglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 21:49:33 -0400
Subject: BJ8 brakes..... Help
I'm losing brake fluid very quickly..... When driving 45 minutes I lost most
of the fluid from the
supply tank.
I can't see any leak on the floor or under the carpet. I suspect that the
fluid is leaking to the
servo.
Any suggestion?
Should I try to do it myself with a kit or just buy a replacement?
Any suggestion on a good source for a kit or replacement servo?
Any suggestion on taking the servo off the car will be appreciate.
Eli
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 20:25:20 -0700
Subject: Dyno testing
Where does one go to test a car on a Dyno?
Is it expensive?
Would it help me figure out why my '62 BT7 Tricarb seems to misfire at
around 80 MPH in 4th with overdrive?
I suspect airflow problems or a lack of petrol at speed.
TIA for any information
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 23:14:38 -0500
Subject: Thanks Re: Advise on Thermo-electric choke on 60 BT7
Thanks to all on the list who gave me advice on the thermo-electric choke.
Seems like an interesting challange to pursue.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Seigrist <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 23:56:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: SPARK PLUG GAP? Pertonix Ignition & Sports coil - BJ8
Hi -
I've already posted this once, but doesn't seem to
have registered on the list. Sorry if you've received
this twice from me.
For several years now I've been running a Pertronix
ignition module (works great) and a 40,000 volt lucas
sports coil.
I've been running with the original factory specified
spark plug gap, but was wondering if anyone had some
advice on the size of the gap I should be running with
this set up? Would a larger gap setting improve
performance at all? or fuel consupmtion?
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:39:57 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 brakes..... Help
Eli,
If you have never rebuilt a Girling servo before I would recommend against
trying. They are far more complicated than a master cylinder or a caliper,
and unless you have a PERFECT core and the right parts you will most likely
be wasting your time. Hemphill's sells a very nice Lockheed replacement
servo with a mounting bracket that bolts right up to the original mounting
brackets on the car ($440). You will need new in and out lines, which you
can fabricate yourself or get from me.
For a rebuild, you might try the Power Brake Exchange in San Jose, CA,
(408) 292-1305. An MGC customer of mine just had his original Girlings
rebuilt there for an amazing $225 each. I don't know if they do Healey
servos there, or what the price or warranty might be, but they ARE power
brake specialists. Might be worth an inquiry.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eli" <eke@attglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 9:49 PM
Subject: BJ8 brakes..... Help
>
> I'm losing brake fluid very quickly..... When driving 45 minutes I lost
most of the fluid from the
> supply tank.
>
> I can't see any leak on the floor or under the carpet. I suspect that
the fluid is leaking to the
> servo.
>
> Any suggestion?
>
> Should I try to do it myself with a kit or just buy a replacement?
>
> Any suggestion on a good source for a kit or replacement servo?
>
> Any suggestion on taking the servo off the car will be appreciate.
>
> Eli
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "E & J Smith" <bluechip at comcastnet.com>
Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 08:02:18 -0400
Subject: Re: SPARK PLUG GAP? Pertonix Ignition & Sports coil - BJ8
I set my plug gap to 0.040 with a lucas 40,000 Volt sport coil...Works great
for me. Standard Lucas points.
Good Luck, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Seigrist" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 2:56 AM
Subject: SPARK PLUG GAP? Pertonix Ignition & Sports coil - BJ8
>
> Hi -
>
> I've already posted this once, but doesn't seem to
> have registered on the list. Sorry if you've received
> this twice from me.
>
> For several years now I've been running a Pertronix
> ignition module (works great) and a 40,000 volt lucas
> sports coil.
>
> I've been running with the original factory specified
> spark plug gap, but was wondering if anyone had some
> advice on the size of the gap I should be running with
> this set up? Would a larger gap setting improve
> performance at all? or fuel consupmtion?
>
> Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 07:47:32 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 brakes..... Help
Power Brake definitely does Healey servos, and usually has fully rebuilt
ones ON THE SHELF! With your old booster in trade, the cost is the same
$225. Mine has worked perfectly since I installed it. This was after an
"expert" tried to rebuild it several times and it locked up each time.
Unless you really want the headaches of doing it yourself, I'd go with the
rebuild. You avoid making any mods to the lines and hoses, just drop it in,
bleed, and be on your way.
BK
----------------------------------------
At 04:39 AM 5/3/2001, Mr. Finespanner wrote:
>Eli,
>If you have never rebuilt a Girling servo before I would recommend against
>trying. They are far more complicated than a master cylinder or a caliper,
>and unless you have a PERFECT core and the right parts you will most likely
>be wasting your time. Hemphill's sells a very nice Lockheed replacement
>servo with a mounting bracket that bolts right up to the original mounting
>brackets on the car ($440). You will need new in and out lines, which you
>can fabricate yourself or get from me.
>
>For a rebuild, you might try the Power Brake Exchange in San Jose, CA,
>(408) 292-1305. An MGC customer of mine just had his original Girlings
>rebuilt there for an amazing $225 each. I don't know if they do Healey
>servos there, or what the price or warranty might be, but they ARE power
>brake specialists. Might be worth an inquiry.
>Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Eli" <eke@attglobal.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 9:49 PM
>Subject: BJ8 brakes..... Help
>
>
> >
> > I'm losing brake fluid very quickly..... When driving 45 minutes I lost
>most of the fluid from the
> > supply tank.
> >
> > I can't see any leak on the floor or under the carpet. I suspect that
>the fluid is leaking to the
> > servo.
> >
> > Any suggestion?
> >
> > Should I try to do it myself with a kit or just buy a replacement?
> >
> > Any suggestion on a good source for a kit or replacement servo?
> >
> > Any suggestion on taking the servo off the car will be appreciate.
> >
> > Eli
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 13:40:16 -0400
Subject: BN7 Waterpump rebuild kit?
Does any one know of a rebuild kit available for a BN7 water pump? I
keep getting told to buy a readily available "NOS" water pump. The pump
that everyone sells as NOS is not correct. It is designed for a press-on
pulley not the original bolt-on set up.
The bearing is fine. The seal just started to drip slightly.
Bob Denton
foxriverkid@earthlink.net
(800)669-7808
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 14:05:25 -0400
Subject: Re: BN7 Waterpump rebuild kit?x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
We have seals in stock.They are of a slightly later design and different
in appearance but work perfectly. $US5.77 ea.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 14:33:01 EDT
Subject: Re: WIND-WINGS (Moss catalog - PDF's)
In a message dated 5/2/01 8:14:52, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< <<
Does anyone know where I can pick up a set of "Wind-Wings" (Not e-bay)?
They are those triangle shaped Plexiglas windows that clip onto the
windshield of
a 100 and supposedly stop the constant wind lashing. >>
On the other hand, if you're talking about a 100-6 (or a 3000 roadster) the
windwings that are sold by Moss and others work just fine. They have clips
that are screwed under the existing screws on the windshield frame -- no
holes to be drilled -- and when they're folded flat even fit under the
sidescreens. They do seem to help a bit, as well.
Cheers
Gary Anderson >>
Brian,
When I last looked at the Moss (about the only source for Windwings) catalog,
the Windwings that they carry were said to require drilling. Maybe you could
get some "L" brackets or something to make em work on your very nice 100.
There is a picture in the online viewable PDF catalog of British Accessories.
Which is one reason why I posted here... The online Moss catalog is an
excellent source for the BMC set of exploded assembly drawings of pretty much
the entire car for those of us who don't have the shop manuals, or those that
would like to see the assembly order of things. The entire catalog-or
sections-are downloadable as Acrobat PDF's.
PDF's are Adobe's "Portable Document Format" and I highly recommend
downloading Acrobat reader (FREE) from adobe.com, if you haven't already. The
files are relatively small and allow magnification, cut and paste of text,
etc. For a sample, see http://www.users.bigpond.com/acmefluid/wheels54.jpg
(80k) and then compare to http://members.aol.com/wilko/100ad.pdf (96k). Use
the magnifying glass on the text to see the difference.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 14:45:43 EDT
Subject: Bolt on wheel question
Hi list,
Does anyone out there know the actual number for the lug pattern on the Big
Healey?
Is it a simple 5 x 4.75(120) inches, or is it 5 x 4.72(120.65)?
I was considering a plus 1 (16") or plus 2 (17") upgrade using a BBS or
Jaguar lattice style alloy wheel.
I currently have two sets of the stock wheels and a set of Minilite replicas,
so there is no need for worry about originality stuff.
Thanks,
Rick
San Diego
BN6
BN6 (Basket case, sold to a good home)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 17:24:21 -0600
Subject: BN2 Bonnet
Anyone out there have a rust free, louver free bonnet for a BN2 that
they care to part with? I was just informed that it is probably better
(READ CHEAPER) to buy a different hood than to repair mine. Does anyone
make a steel skin for the BN2 bonnet? Does it pay to get an aluminum
hood? Yor opinions are gladly accepted.
Thanks in advance.
Ward Stebner
1956 BN2
Saskatoon, SK Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 15:20:01 +0100
Subject: A new one for your links list - Austin Healey Club UK
Ladies and Gentlemen
The full web site for the UK's national Austin Healey Club was launched
on May 3, to replace the very basic information previously published.
Find us at: http://www.austin-healey-club.com
Though this has been some time in the making, it is one of those things
(like a Healey restoration!) that is never complete, will always need
tweaking, and can always be improved.
We hope, in time, to make it a significant resource in the Austin Healey
world, both in the home of Austin Healey and around the world.
We have a page where we list Austin Healey Clubs worldwide. Some of the
entries have web links; some do not. If your Club is listed, I'd be
grateful if you would check the web address if it is there, or supply
details to me if the name is not linked. If you would like your Club
added, please drop me a line.
Do pay the site a visit, and feel free to email me (its webmaster) if
you have any comments - positive or negative!
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 10:28:21 -0700
Subject: Cross country locations
To the List: I will be driving a duelee pickup from the Fresno CA area
back east (New Jersey) sometime this summer. I was wondering about
Austin Healey parts places (used) or wrecking yards to stop during my
trip. It would be a shame to bring an empty truck all that way......(My
wife will not be with me!!). TIA ED S
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 17:04:00 +0100
Subject: Dirt in fuel line
Dear all,
I have a new & aluminium tank, so I doubt if I am getting
corrosion in\from my tank...........
however, I notice that my filters pick up a lot of small black
bits of ??? They are very small, black and hard.
Where can they be coming from? I can only surmise that they are
from the fuel line itself....how can this be?
Some of them are minute...I used to find a fair few in the filter
of my first carb, less in my second filter and even less in my
third. Smaller bits finishing in carb no.3, obviously.
I have installed a (old) glass bowl type filter from the local
Jag breaker\restorer place. (Place is a goldmine). Has "AC" on
the top and will be familiar to most of you. I was unaware that
one can buy paper elements for these bowls now - a good thing as
each element comes with a new rubber gasket for the bowl. A lot
of the bowls that I've seen in the past had no element - relying
on gravity, I suppose - and seemed to have a permanent bubble,
caused perhaps by faulty, old seals or no seals at all.
Have had the car out quite frequently with it's 3 HD6s etcetc.
First impressions were fair enough....
it goes much better. Is considerably quicker all through the
range.
it has a nice easy tick over, about 800.
I don't think it uses any more fuel than before.
sounds better than before. (after the exhaust manifold work).
Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 09:17:51 -0700
Subject: Penetrating oil
>From recent postings, it would appear that "Kroil" and "Busty" are the
preferred names in quality penetrating oils. Would someone please
suggest a source for these products on the west coast.
Speaking of Busty, wasn't there a radio station DJ in the St. Louis
area named "Busty" a few years back?
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California . . . . . .land of little gas and electricity
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Goodman" <mkgoodman at att.net>
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 12:01:03 -0400
Subject: STICKY BJ8 BRAKE SERVO
I thought that my servo was sticking and spent the $ for a rebuild kit, got
the proper lubricant, and even substituted the too large foam seal retainer
piece with silicon tubing of a smaller diameter, to find that my brakes still
were locked on.
Upon further investigation, I found that an old rubber brake hose had eroded
and an internal piece that had separated, was acting as a check valve which
kept the pressure to a caliper on constantly. So, before you go to the
trouble to rebuild the servo, check or replace the rubber brake hoses.
Mark Goodman
BJ8 35503
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 12:23:46 -0400
Subject: Fw: A new one for your links list - Austin Healey Club UK
I visited their site and it is really nice -- one to bookmark for future
surfing.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "Nigel Unsworth" <Nigel_Unsworth@FWUK.FWC.COM>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 10:20 AM
Subject: A new one for your links list - Austin Healey Club UK
>
> Ladies and Gentlemen
>
> The full web site for the UK's national Austin Healey Club was launched
> on May 3, to replace the very basic information previously published.
>
> Find us at: http://www.austin-healey-club.com
>
> Though this has been some time in the making, it is one of those things
> (like a Healey restoration!) that is never complete, will always need
> tweaking, and can always be improved.
>
> We hope, in time, to make it a significant resource in the Austin Healey
> world, both in the home of Austin Healey and around the world.
>
> We have a page where we list Austin Healey Clubs worldwide. Some of the
> entries have web links; some do not. If your Club is listed, I'd be
> grateful if you would check the web address if it is there, or supply
> details to me if the name is not linked. If you would like your Club
> added, please drop me a line.
>
> Do pay the site a visit, and feel free to email me (its webmaster) if
> you have any comments - positive or negative!
> Alan F Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
> H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
> See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
> http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 12:30:28 EDT
Subject: Electrical
Did I see here there was a PDF electrical schematic online somewhere? I need
one for a BN4. TIA, Scott.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 12:41:11 EDT
Subject: Noggin & Natters
I've always wondered where the term Noggin & Natters comes from and what does
it actually translate to.
I've heard it used often in MG and Healey Circles and was wondering, just out
of curiosity, where it comes from.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 13:43:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Noggin & Natters
Both terms my Dad used to use....
Your noggin is your head
Nattering is chatting
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
> I've always wondered where the term Noggin & Natters comes from and what does
> it actually translate to.
>
> I've heard it used often in MG and Healey Circles and was wondering, just out
> of curiosity, where it comes from.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 18:40:28 +0100
Subject: Joining AHC UK
In message <01C0D49C.637D0BE0.J_L_Sims@msn.com>, John Sims
<J_L_Sims@msn.com> writes
>Is it possible for some of us across the pond to join. I would like to receive
>the magazine as it appers to be very informative.
>
>John Sims
>Aberdeen, NJ, US
>
John,
Of course, we'd be delighted to welcome you. Your default Centre would
be 'Midland & Overseas', though the choice is entirely yours. The
advantage of 'Midland & Overseas' is that they can take payment via
credit card.
Email me if you have any problems with the on-line membership forms -
they've yet to be tested on the track!
Regards...
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 14:17:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Penetrating oil
Terry,
You can order Kroil right from their web site: www.kanolabs.com . Busty
is available from Ed at Just Brits, along with other Herdor products.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 12:17 PM
Subject: Penetrating oil
>
> From recent postings, it would appear that "Kroil" and "Busty" are the
> preferred names in quality penetrating oils. Would someone please
> suggest a source for these products on the west coast.
>
> Speaking of Busty, wasn't there a radio station DJ in the St. Louis
> area named "Busty" a few years back?
>
>
> Terry Blubaugh
> Southern California . . . . . .land of little gas and electricity
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 14:20:42 -0400
Subject: 100-6 plug wires
Does any know where to get, or have, a set of 100-6 plug wires. I need
the proper kind with cylinder numbers molded into the boots.
Bob Denton
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 20:23:58 -0400
Subject: that feeling
Well, I now know that spectrum of emotion that accompanies the
first attempt to start a rebuilt engine. While I thought it
would be a quick 2 month job, it turned into a 4 month
experience. But the rewards all came to roost today.
Looking back on it, I was probably a bit crazy. My engine ran
ok, but there was some smoke, not much, but a little, and there
was that annoying oil drip... but the car did run, and everytime
I turned the key, I was quite confident that the wonderful
Healey serenade would begin to sound out from the exhaust
system..... Nevertheless, I decided to give the engine a "spruce
up".. Taking the engine out was easy... taking it apart was
mostly easy... then deciding to go first class was a bit of a
luxury, but I decided to get the engine boiled.. and then it
happened... I found a machinist I liked, and the next thing I
knew I was having the intake manifold ported, the head rebuilt,
the all the bearings replaced and a Dennis Welch cam
installed....
Of course, with the engine out, I decided to rebuild the shock
towers.. (an earlier email described the joys therein...:-)....
And of course the clutch and brake master cylinders were easy to
access, so rebuilding them was logical... well, if you're going
to rebuild the masters, might as well rebuild the slaves... Then
of course the problem of the booster... it was not a standardly
observed version... and the vacuum chamber was unbelievable!!!..
there was no logical way to open it.. there was an illogical
way. So, of course, that is the course I took (hacksaw)... and
reassembly was going to be a challenge, but my TIG welding
skills have improved and I had some confidence that I could
restore the hacksawn band if I was careful... That turned out to
be true, so I was successful at rebuilding the booster (and
reassembling it).
Of course a spiffy new engine ought to be treated to an
efficient radiator. So I had a new core installed. Then there
are the wheels... Lots of people like the Yokohama... so I am
trying those (on new mini-lite wheels)... And, of course, there
was the opportunity for paint touch up... and replacing any hose
that might be even slightly aged...
Ok... four months into the project and the car is all assembled
(except for the interior console, and the bonnet)... Time to try
to see if she will start....(no joy!!!!)
Oh, my gawd!!!.. all that work, and the engine won't start!!!...
No panic... I was sure I'd done things carefully, tightened
everything to torque specifications, lathered parts with
assembly lube, cam lube, oil, etc... It had to be something
electrical... So I attack the distributor.. seems to work fine,
without the rotor in place, I get sparks from the distributor
points as the engine is turned, but nothing from the
plugs......(One of the truly wonderful thing about the Healey
solenoid is the little hidden starter button on its backside....
I'll not complain about Lucas again... from inside the engine
compartment, one can do whatever one needs to test, turn, or
start the car...:-)..)
So, it isn't the fuses, it isn't the capacitor or points... must
be the coil... I take a spark plug and stuff it into the high
tension output of the coil.. when a ground wire is aligator
clipped to the thread washer of the plug and the engine is
rotated, I get sparks... and the same trick with the spark plug
touching the carbon plug on the radiator cap seems to work
too... (so now I'm at a loss... ) I reassemble things and try
seeing if the spark plugs are now giving a spark... They
are!!!.. (I used dialectric grease on the coil high tension
lead, and some of it got spread around when I used the plug to
test for spark with the coil and cap. (that must have been the
problem... getting spark from the coil wire to the rotor wasn't
happening before, but after my little grease contamination, it
was doing fine)... So, I stuck the plugs back in the car and
tried again...
This time the damn starter motor won't make the engine turn
over...(it was doing fine before, but no more...) I decide the
battery might be weak so I give the car a jump start from
another battery... Whooom!!!... We've got POWER
SCOTTY!!!..:-)... A few tweaks of the timing, a few tweaks on
the carbs, and we've got SMOOOOOOTH POWWWWERRRRR!!!...:-)... and
that wonderful symphony of six cylinders through the exhaust
system...
Wow!.. the relief... It is an exhilarating feeling to tear an
engine down, and then to bring it back to life. It seems
better than ever. So, I'm a happy boy again...:-)
Too bad the weather is supposed to shift from the 90 degree days
we've had for the past couple of days to 60 degree days over the
weekend... (what the heck... why should I care.. My Healey and I
are going to go out for a spin tomorrow...:-)....(oh, yeah, I
did visit Dr. Sears and buy another battery... that does seem to
make a difference on the restarts....:-)...
Hope everyone of you who attempts a rebuild has the same joys
that I've had.
-Skip-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 20:42:56 EDT
Subject: Re: WIND-WINGS (Moss catalog - PDF's)
In a message dated 5/3/01 11:35:24 AM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
<< When I last looked at the Moss (about the only source for Windwings)
catalog,
the Windwings that they carry were said to require drilling. >>
The moss windwings do not, repeat, do not require drilling. Don't know why
the catalog still says that.
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 20:46:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Noggin & Natters
In a message dated 5/4/01 10:40:08 AM, magicare@home.com writes:
<< Your noggin is your head >>
Nope - a noggin is a flagon, or a tankard, or a pint and is drunk while one
natters.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 21:18:22 EDT
Subject: Re: that feeling
I too have an engine story.
Restored a BN1, but not the engine, ten years ago. Drove it happily for
many years. Decided to do the engine, had everything done to it. While
picking it up the shop dropped it four feet on cement, chipping the flywheel.
The shop checked it out, lightened the flywheel. Car has been fine ever
since.
I have another engine story.
Bought a BJ8 from a man who said it had irregular oil pressure even
though he had replaced the pump twice. I planned to rebuild the engine
anyway. Driving it home, sure enough, the oil pressure dropped to zero when I
made left hand turns. At home I discovered that the oil dipstick spacer was
missing. There was less than a quart of oil present. The seller was too nice
a man for me to tell him. Bill Huck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 18:57:02 -0700
Subject: camber question
I just notice that my new tires (less than 1000 miles) are wearing
significantly on the outside edge. Looks like the camber is out too far.
But if I remember correctly, this is not adjustable. How do I fix it? Any
suggestions?
Jerry
BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 22:27:07 -0400
Subject: Radiator overflow
My radiator has taken to dumping a significant quantity of water
out of the overflow hose when I park the car after my 30 minute
commute on the parkways here.
Here are the details:
The car has always done this if I overfill the radiator. In the past,
however, it would correct itself, working down to a level where it
did not overflow.
My temperature guage shows about 185 by the time I get to work
(I am going to check it for accuracy this weekend).
The radiator cap was new last year and it does hold some pressure.
If I start to open it, CAREFULLY, holding it with a rag, when the
car is hot some water starts to come out under pressure.
I have a 160 degree thermostat and a stock fan.
As far as I can tell, it only overflows after I shut the engine off.
However, by the time I have snapped the tonneau cover in place and
turned off the battery cutoff switch, in the parking lot at work,
there is a noticable puddle under the car.
My commute has increased from 15 miles one way to 26 miles one way
since last summer.
So, my question is, assuming that my temperature guage is correct, should I:
1. Simply let the car dump water out until it gets down to a level where it
does not do it anymore?
2. Keep refilling the radiator to keep the water level up to about an inch
from the bottom of the filler neck and let it dump water if it feels the
"need"?
3. Buy a Texas cooler?
4. Other suggestions?
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 00:12:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Radiator overflow
> My radiator has taken to dumping a significant quantity of water
> out of the overflow hose when I park the car after my 30 minute
> commute on the parkways here.
>
> Here are the details:
>
> The car has always done this if I overfill the radiator. In the past,
> however, it would correct itself, working down to a level where it
> did not overflow.
>
> My temperature guage shows about 185 by the time I get to work
> (I am going to check it for accuracy this weekend).
>
> The radiator cap was new last year and it does hold some pressure.
> If I start to open it, CAREFULLY, holding it with a rag, when the
> car is hot some water starts to come out under pressure.
Make sure the rad cap is at least a 7 lb one and that it has a correct full
1" reach. Sounds like the new cap is probably seating alright, but is
allowing the coolant to overflow too easily. Interestingly, the specs for
the later cars called for replacing the cap with a 10 lb one, likely for
exactly this reason.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 00:06:50 -0400
Subject: Re: camber question
> I just notice that my new tires (less than 1000 miles) are wearing
> significantly on the outside edge. Looks like the camber is out too far.
> But if I remember correctly, this is not adjustable. How do I fix it?
Any
> suggestions?
>
> Jerry
> BN4
Check for correct toe in adjustment. Believe it or not, it has a big effect
on camber. Toed out will wear the outer edges significantly.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 18:20:06 +1000
Subject: Re: camber question
Jerry,
Firstly, check toe in/ toe out - too much toe in will also cause wear on the
outer tyre edges - which is probably the culprit if you have a road only
Healey. A fraction of toe in (1mm) is about right. Go to a place with a
computer laser aligner and they'll get it exact. You will never get it right
by eye.
Secondly - what do you use your car for? If you just drive it around on the
street - then I can't help you too much past this point. Most big Healeys
have 1 degree positive camber as standard, and toe in - so the outer edge
must be the edge that wears first in straight line driving (ie - lets ignore
the dynamics of cornering for a minute). Negative camber and toe out will
wear the inner edge in straight line driving.
If you want front negative camber - to make the front of the car 'bite'
better, and grip harder - I can help - but this will just move the wear from
the outside edge to the inside edge of your tyres if you drive around on the
street.
As a tyre corners hard, the outside tyre rolls over in a positive camber
fashion. As you turn the wheel - the caster applys some negative camber -
and the final goal is to have the loaded tyre as 'vertical' as you can get
it - to get more rubber on the road. You actually need about 8 degrees total
negative camber at 20 degrees turn in to achieve a vertical, fully loaded
tyre on a Healey. This total required negative camber is effectively caster
plus static camber. Most standard Healeys have 1 degree positive camber, and
somewhere between 0 degrees and 3 degrees of negative caster..... so getting
this much neg camber is a bit of a task - and most never achieve anywhere
near it...
If you want to change your camber to negative - there are four methods I am
aware of:
1. You can bend the front shock arms, effectively shortening them - but I
wouldn't ever recommend this - no one seems to know what the arms are
actually made of - or how they are made (cast? forged?) - and the metalurgy
could be a bit risky. I know many guys who have done this - I won't.
2. The better way is to fit the shorter front shock arms off other british
cars - Wolesley sedans are the 'best' donors I've found.
If you measure the length of your shock arms, centre to centre, with the
shock arms installed on the shock, and you'll find that healey ones are
'about' 216 - 218mm long - try to measure them, and you'll see what I mean.
You can get shock arms off other British sedans which are around 208mm, down
to about 200mm long, center to center.
About 4.5mm = 1 degree of POSITIVE camber - so if you have a standard Healey
setup (1 degree positive camber) - and you go to 200mm Wolseley arms - you
get nearly 3 degrees NEGATIVE camber. But this modification requires a few
other changes - like making your fixed length idler arms adjustable - you
can't adjust the centre fixed steeering rod. This is what I have done on my
BJ8. I am almost finished a full explanation of this and will post it on my
website soon.
3. Use 'camber pins' - eccentric adjusters on the top of the king pin. I
haven't used these - they only give minor amounts of adjustment.
4. Move your front shock locating plates inwards - same scale of distances
as in 2. above. If you do this - then also move them "back" - and get some
more caster while you are at it..... Healeys don't have enough caster to
start with - and more caster = less negative static camber is required. But
do your maths before you try this!!
Although I have 3 degrees caster, and 3 degrees static negative camber
(giving six degrees negative at 20 degrees turn in ) - my tyres still have
more wear on the outside edge from hard track driving - because - as I said
earlier - you need closer to 8 degrees to achieve a vertical fully loaded
tyre. If I just drove the car on the road - I would get excessive wear on
the inner edge (from the 3 degrees negative static camber) The shock plates
weren't moved 'back' during the restoration to get more caster - and I'm not
doing it again........ More caster = heavier steering - but better grip.
As always - measure accurately - know what you are trying to achieve, and
what you weant your car for. Everything is a compromise...
Hope this helps
Chris
_______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1964 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0@attglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 11:57 AM
Subject: camber question
>
> I just notice that my new tires (less than 1000 miles) are wearing
> significantly on the outside edge. Looks like the camber is out too far.
> But if I remember correctly, this is not adjustable. How do I fix it?
Any
> suggestions?
>
> Jerry
> BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:04:23 +0100
Subject: Noggin & Natters - as in the Austin Healey Club (UK)
Someone asked the meaning of this, as it is a listed activity in the
UK's Austin Healey Club. My reply on this didn't seem to reach the list
(or at least didn't make it back to me), so here it is again....
A "noggin" is a small quantity of spirits, usually one gill (quarter of
a pint), or a small mug or cup (17th Century, obscure origin). Hence a
beer or two (but definitely no more than that in our case!)
To "natter" is to talk idly and at length, chatter or gossip, hence the
noun (19th Century, changed from gnatter: to grumble(!), so my
dictionary tells me).
So "Noggin & Natters" describes what we do "to a T"! (do you have that
expression over there?).
Any of you from around the world are very welcome to drop in to any of
our 'Noggin & Natters' evenings if you are visiting the UK. We'd be
delighted to meet you.
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 03:15:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Scuttle Shake Revisited
I finally cured the violent shaking and shimmying between 55 and 65 mph,
that I have fought for the past 33 years, by balancing my left rear
brake drum.
One of my friends agreed to chuck my brake drum up on his balancer at
his engine rebuilding shop to see if it was out of balance. As with
everyone else, he claimed that brake drums aren't usually off.
He couldn't run his sensitive high tech balancing machine it was so far
off. He checked to see if it was concentric and it was within three
thousandths. He put it on the balancer and let the heavy spot turn
down. He then ground off the outer heavy ridge enough to be able to use
the balancing machine. By the time the drum was perfectly balanced he
had removed 250 thousandths of an inch for about a three inch area
around the circumference. The ground area tapers almost half way around
the drum. That is 1/4 inch of steel removed from the big cooling fin on
one side.
Examining the drum there is no indication of any manufacturing defect or
different looking metal anywhere. Just a really heavy spot somewhere in
the drum.
I re-painted the brake drum and remounted it on the car. At about 11:00
p.m. I drove out onto the freeway and ran it for about 5 miles. The
steering wheel is perfectly still and there is no shaking at all up to
the 70 mph speed limit. I held it at about 60 mph coming back and it
was smooth as glass, even with 30 year old Michelins. What a delight to
drive finally.
As I posted last year, my efforts to cure this shaking over the pst 33
years of ownership have included new 60 spoke wire wheels, new 72 spoke
triple laced wire wheels, new Michelin tires, new front shocks, new
kingpins, new clutch, replacing the transmission and overdrive,
balancing the driveshaft, replacing rear springs . . . nothing
eliminated the violent shaking from 55 up to almost 70.
I tried spin balancing the tires on the car with a strobe light system a
few years ago. The fronts balanced easily. We jacked up the right rear
with the left rear tire still on the ground and ran the car in gear to
balance the right rear with no problem. When we jacked up the left rear
with the right rear tire on the ground, the car almost shook off the
jack when we tried to spin the left rear tire in gear. We had to take
the tire and wire wheel off and balanced them off the car mounted to a
computer spinning machine.
The tire and rim were within 3/32 on my runout gauge, so it wasn't
caused by wobbling. I began to suspect the heavy brake drum, since the
problem had existed through the past three different rims and tires.
I have owned the car since 1968, so the brake drum may have come from
the factory this way. No wonder the first owners down in Los Angeles
beat the poor thing so much before I bought it for $775.00 off a used
car lot.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 07:04:18 -0400
Subject: Re: camber question
Jerry,
Sounds like you are toed in too far. If your camber is also bad it can be
corrected using the upper trunnion bushings with the offset bores, but you
can't just "eyeball" it, to set it you need a proper camber measuring tool.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0@attglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 9:57 PM
Subject: camber question
>
> I just notice that my new tires (less than 1000 miles) are wearing
> significantly on the outside edge. Looks like the camber is out too far.
> But if I remember correctly, this is not adjustable. How do I fix it?
Any
> suggestions?
>
> Jerry
> BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 06:05:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Scuttle Shake Revisited
hi pete-
now that you have that vibration problem solved, it might be time to replace
those 30 year old michelins before taking any more drives.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
Pete Cowper wrote:
>
>
> I finally cured the violent shaking and shimmying between 55 and 65 mph,
> that I have fought for the past 33 years, by balancing my left rear
> brake drum.
>
> One of my friends agreed to chuck my brake drum up on his balancer at
> his engine rebuilding shop to see if it was out of balance. As with
> everyone else, he claimed that brake drums aren't usually off.
>
> He couldn't run his sensitive high tech balancing machine it was so far
> off. He checked to see if it was concentric and it was within three
> thousandths. He put it on the balancer and let the heavy spot turn
> down. He then ground off the outer heavy ridge enough to be able to use
> the balancing machine. By the time the drum was perfectly balanced he
> had removed 250 thousandths of an inch for about a three inch area
> around the circumference. The ground area tapers almost half way around
> the drum. That is 1/4 inch of steel removed from the big cooling fin on
> one side.
>
> Examining the drum there is no indication of any manufacturing defect or
> different looking metal anywhere. Just a really heavy spot somewhere in
> the drum.
>
> I re-painted the brake drum and remounted it on the car. At about 11:00
> p.m. I drove out onto the freeway and ran it for about 5 miles. The
> steering wheel is perfectly still and there is no shaking at all up to
> the 70 mph speed limit. I held it at about 60 mph coming back and it
> was smooth as glass, even with 30 year old Michelins. What a delight to
> drive finally.
>
> As I posted last year, my efforts to cure this shaking over the pst 33
> years of ownership have included new 60 spoke wire wheels, new 72 spoke
> triple laced wire wheels, new Michelin tires, new front shocks, new
> kingpins, new clutch, replacing the transmission and overdrive,
> balancing the driveshaft, replacing rear springs . . . nothing
> eliminated the violent shaking from 55 up to almost 70.
>
> I tried spin balancing the tires on the car with a strobe light system a
> few years ago. The fronts balanced easily. We jacked up the right rear
> with the left rear tire still on the ground and ran the car in gear to
> balance the right rear with no problem. When we jacked up the left rear
> with the right rear tire on the ground, the car almost shook off the
> jack when we tried to spin the left rear tire in gear. We had to take
> the tire and wire wheel off and balanced them off the car mounted to a
> computer spinning machine.
>
> The tire and rim were within 3/32 on my runout gauge, so it wasn't
> caused by wobbling. I began to suspect the heavy brake drum, since the
> problem had existed through the past three different rims and tires.
>
> I have owned the car since 1968, so the brake drum may have come from
> the factory this way. No wonder the first owners down in Los Angeles
> beat the poor thing so much before I bought it for $775.00 off a used
> car lot.
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 08:08:27 -0400
Subject: RE: Radiator overflow
Rich,
Is there any reason not to use a 10 lb radiator cap on my engine?
It was rebuilt about two years ago so everything should be solid,
but I would not want to start blowing out freeze plugs or anything
like that.
Where can I get a 10 lb. cap with the proper reach?
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich C [mailto:rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca]
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 12:12 AM
To: Peter Schauss; Healeys@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: Radiator overflow
> My radiator has taken to dumping a significant quantity of water
> out of the overflow hose when I park the car after my 30 minute
> commute on the parkways here.
>
> Here are the details:
>
> The car has always done this if I overfill the radiator. In the past,
> however, it would correct itself, working down to a level where it
> did not overflow.
>
> My temperature guage shows about 185 by the time I get to work
> (I am going to check it for accuracy this weekend).
>
> The radiator cap was new last year and it does hold some pressure.
> If I start to open it, CAREFULLY, holding it with a rag, when the
> car is hot some water starts to come out under pressure.
Make sure the rad cap is at least a 7 lb one and that it has a correct full
1" reach. Sounds like the new cap is probably seating alright, but is
allowing the coolant to overflow too easily. Interestingly, the specs for
the later cars called for replacing the cap with a 10 lb one, likely for
exactly this reason.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 08:51:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Noggin & Natters
The plot thickens...
I guess my Dad, not being a drinking' man was not entirely wrong
Canadian Oxford Dictionary
noggin/'nogin/n. 1 Informal the head. 2. a small mug. 3. a
small measure, usu. 1/4 pint, of hard liquor. {17th c.: origin unknown}
I guess some of you guys are a lot older than I am . ;-) LOL
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 09:18:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Noggin & Natters
Thanks to all who responded about my inquiry concerning Noggin & Natters.
Sounds like it is a lot like my Scottish Grandmothers friends "wee taste and
a gab".
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 06:35:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: AHCUSA Affiliation Program
Hi Team,
Just a brief message to announce that the Austin-Healey Club of Oregon has
become the latest club to enter into the Austin-Healey Club USA's
"Affiliation Program" wherein we work together as independent partners to
better serve the marque and the members.
You can learn all about the program beginning here:
<http://www.healey.org/affiliation.shtml>
We'd love to welcome more clubs into this mutually beneficial program. It
brings very significant benefits and only very minimal requirements. Please
check it out. Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://www.healey.org
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 07:04:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Scuttle Shake Revisited
I had my drums balanced also, except the balancer welded 1/4" (approx.) steel
rod
onto the drums (between the "fins") instead of removing metal. Both took 2-3
inches
of rod, probably 50-100 grams (or more). Have also balanced the prop shaft,
replaced swivel
pins, etc. Still have a little shake at 56-62, but tolerable (haven't done the
scuttle mod).
Interesting that the drums (front, at least) on the M appear to have been
balanced at the
factory, by removing some of the ridge along the circumference.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Cowper" <pcowper@webtv.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <mgbrattland@gerlecreek.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 3:15 AM
Subject: Scuttle Shake Revisited
>
> I finally cured the violent shaking and shimmying between 55 and 65 mph,
> that I have fought for the past 33 years, by balancing my left rear
> brake drum.
>
> One of my friends agreed to chuck my brake drum up on his balancer at
> his engine rebuilding shop to see if it was out of balance. As with
> everyone else, he claimed that brake drums aren't usually off.
>
> He couldn't run his sensitive high tech balancing machine it was so far
> off. He checked to see if it was concentric and it was within three
> thousandths. He put it on the balancer and let the heavy spot turn
> down. He then ground off the outer heavy ridge enough to be able to use
> the balancing machine. By the time the drum was perfectly balanced he
> had removed 250 thousandths of an inch for about a three inch area
> around the circumference. The ground area tapers almost half way around
> the drum. That is 1/4 inch of steel removed from the big cooling fin on
> one side.
>
> Examining the drum there is no indication of any manufacturing defect or
> different looking metal anywhere. Just a really heavy spot somewhere in
> the drum.
>
> I re-painted the brake drum and remounted it on the car. At about 11:00
> p.m. I drove out onto the freeway and ran it for about 5 miles. The
> steering wheel is perfectly still and there is no shaking at all up to
> the 70 mph speed limit. I held it at about 60 mph coming back and it
> was smooth as glass, even with 30 year old Michelins. What a delight to
> drive finally.
>
> As I posted last year, my efforts to cure this shaking over the pst 33
> years of ownership have included new 60 spoke wire wheels, new 72 spoke
> triple laced wire wheels, new Michelin tires, new front shocks, new
> kingpins, new clutch, replacing the transmission and overdrive,
> balancing the driveshaft, replacing rear springs . . . nothing
> eliminated the violent shaking from 55 up to almost 70.
>
> I tried spin balancing the tires on the car with a strobe light system a
> few years ago. The fronts balanced easily. We jacked up the right rear
> with the left rear tire still on the ground and ran the car in gear to
> balance the right rear with no problem. When we jacked up the left rear
> with the right rear tire on the ground, the car almost shook off the
> jack when we tried to spin the left rear tire in gear. We had to take
> the tire and wire wheel off and balanced them off the car mounted to a
> computer spinning machine.
>
> The tire and rim were within 3/32 on my runout gauge, so it wasn't
> caused by wobbling. I began to suspect the heavy brake drum, since the
> problem had existed through the past three different rims and tires.
>
> I have owned the car since 1968, so the brake drum may have come from
> the factory this way. No wonder the first owners down in Los Angeles
> beat the poor thing so much before I bought it for $775.00 off a used
> car lot.
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:34:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Scuttle Shake Revisited
I understand from Allen Hendrix of Hendrix Wire Wheel that the brake drum
balancing only applies to the later models. He said that my BN4 would not
benefit from balancing. Does anyone have anything more on this?
Rudy Streng
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:54:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Scuttle Shake Revisited
In a message dated 5/5/01 6:17:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pcowper@webtv.net
writes:
>
Hi Peter-
I would be very careful at any speed even w/o scuttle shake on 30 year old
Michelin or any 30 year old tires.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 11:07:43 EDT
Subject: NTAHC NM Tour
Sorry to bomb the list, but I lost some e-mail addresses.
The NTAHC will be touring North Central New Mexico the middle of May and
would like to keep the guys in NM informed.
If you want info please reply off line to <<A HREF="drtrite@aol.com">
drtrite@aol.com</A>> and I will get you back on the list for the tour.
This isn't a structured tour, just out for a weekend drive for people that
enjoy driving their Healeys.
Thanks,
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:50:41 -0700
Subject: camber update
Since most of your suggestions related to checking the Toe-in first. That
is what I did. I had check with the archives under camber and was worried
that I would be taking the shock mount off. The toe in was 3/8" off and has
been corrected. It is strange that it was that far off since both my wife
and I remember checking it when we rebuilt the front end. I will be
checking all the mounting bolts and other front end pieces to make sure they
are still in place.
Now for rotating the tires.
thank for your help
Jerry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 14:31:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Website Update
Hi Team,
Just a note that I have updated and expanded my little corner of the web.
I've updated the home page and added three pages. Please take a look,
especially at the three new pages. It starts at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
It's all Healey stuff. Hope you enjoy.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 17:24:10 -0500
Subject: Re: camber update
i believe you will find the general rule of thumb is, if running radial tires,
no toe-in. set the wheels straight ahead. the old settings were for bias ply
tires.
Jerry Costanzo wrote:
>
>
> Since most of your suggestions related to checking the Toe-in first. That
> is what I did. I had check with the archives under camber and was worried
> that I would be taking the shock mount off. The toe in was 3/8" off and has
> been corrected. It is strange that it was that far off since both my wife
> and I remember checking it when we rebuilt the front end. I will be
> checking all the mounting bolts and other front end pieces to make sure they
> are still in place.
>
> Now for rotating the tires.
>
> thank for your help
>
> Jerry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 19:15:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Bolt on wheel question
In a message dated 5/3/01 2:48:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, WilKo@aol.com
writes:
> Hi list,
> Does anyone out there know the actual number for the lug pattern on the Big
> Healey?
> Is it a simple 5 x 4.75(120) inches, or is it 5 x 4.72(120.65)?
>
>
The bolt pattern is 5X5 on the big Healey and 4X4 on the little ones.
Peter S.
Charlotte NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 10:48:12 +1000
Subject: Web Site Update
Hello
I have just added to my site, an Austin Healey "Mini Manual" you will
find it on the page below.
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 18:12:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Web Site Update
larry -
Pretty crazy (and somewhat morbid) history your car
has - unique nontheless. I'm sure anyone and everyone
ever involved with the car would be thrilled to see
what you've done so far.
Regards,
Alan
'66 BJ8 '53 BN1
--- Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
>
> Hello
> I have just added to my site, an Austin Healey "Mini
> Manual" you will
> find it on the page below.
> Larry Varley
> Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 20:18:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Scuttle Shake Revisited
Marion S. Brantley, Jr. et al:
Yeah, yeah, yeah . . . get in line. I have been soundly scolded by most
of the list already.
Now that I can go over 50 mph and leave town I will replace the 1960-70
Michlin tires. I have only driven a few hundred local miles a year the
past two decades.
I'm Scotiish for heavens sake . . . there's still some tread left.
Peter Macintosh Cowper (1960 BT7) Past Area Governor - Central
California Scottish Society
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 22:11:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Scuttle Shake Revisited
So I probably shouldn't take my 84 year old Mother for a Healey ride on
my 30 year old Michelins on Mother's Day?
Pete Cowper (smoooth riding 1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From frank yow <frankyow_99 at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 02:45:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: pertronix ignitor
I have a BT7 with the original distributor, would like a source for a pertronix
ignitor to fit that distributor. Happy to have a reply off list. Thanks
Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stuff like Dave Matthews Band Tickets &
more!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 07:12:40 -0400
Subject: Fender opening height
Hi all:
Anyone know what the distance would be from the top of the rear tire to the
fender opening on a bn1? Been driving the Healey alot in the past couple of
weeks. Great weather here in the mid-atlantic area lately. TIA
lance
54 bn1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 07:03:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Fender opening height
variable depending upon tire size and rear spring condition.
Lance Werner wrote:
>
>
> Hi all:
> Anyone know what the distance would be from the top of the rear tire to the
> fender opening on a bn1? Been driving the Healey alot in the past couple of
> weeks. Great weather here in the mid-atlantic area lately. TIA
> lance
> 54 bn1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 13:23:28 +0100
Subject: Link banner to the new UK Austin Healey Club web site.
If any of you who are running A-H web sites would be willing to include
a link banner to the new UK Austin Healey Club web site, here is the
necessary source code:
<A HREF="http://www.austin-healey-club.com/"; TARGET="_blank">
<IMG SRC="http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/Linkbanners/AHC-banner.gif";
ALT="Austin Healey Club"></A>
If you do not have access to your source code you'll need to do the
following:
Insert an image with a source of:
"http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/Linkbanners/AHC-banner.gif";
Link it to:
"http://www.austin-healey-club.com/";
Give it the TARGET attribute of:
"_blank" (or whatever your other preference)
Give it the ALT TEXT of "Austin Healey Club"
We have an extensive link list of Clubs wordwide on the AHC site. We are
of course happy to include a banner for your A-H site if you have
produced one, and tell us where to find it.
With grateful thanks to those who are happy to do this to help us get
this new site known. If you have time to drop me a line to say you have
added this link, it would be good to hear from you.
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 22:39:48 +1000
Subject: Re: Web Site Update
Hello Alan
The brother of the guy that was killed in the car is still around and I
believe kept up to date on the restoration. Recently I had the original
floor carpets and side curtain bag passed on to me, which were for some
reason not in the car at the time.
Larry
International Investor wrote:
> larry -
>
> Pretty crazy (and somewhat morbid) history your car
> has - unique nontheless. I'm sure anyone and everyone
> ever involved with the car would be thrilled to see
> what you've done so far.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '66 BJ8 '53 BN1
>
> --- Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
> >
> > Hello
> > I have just added to my site, an Austin Healey "Mini
> > Manual" you will
> > find it on the page below.
> > Larry Varley
> > Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 11:40:53 -0400
Subject: Was: Re: that feeling, Now: Lubrication advice
funny you should say that... I did use assembly lube on the rings, but
I washed the piston walls with 30weight non-detergent oil.... I also
put about 1/2 quart of marvel mystery oil in the oil pan when I added
the other 7 or so quarts of 30weight non-detergent oil to the engine
block. (I have a Fram filter on the car and plan to replace it and
the oil after the first 200 miles or so..)
I'm under the impression that assembly lube is really just a fancy
name for vaseline...but I'm not really certain as to all the
mysterious fluids that were recommended. Years ago, I just used
grease on gaskets and lots of oil on bearing/wearing surfaces whenever
I did mechanical work.
This time I used a special "cam lube" (some sort of red stuff) on the
wearing surfaces of the cams and cam-followers. I used acetone to
clean the bearings before I inserted them in their seats, and wore
latex gloves to be sure I added no fingerprints to anything. I used
assembly lube on the wear-side of the bearings. I used Hylomar on
most of the gaskets, except the head gasket which went on dry (it
appeared to have a kind of lacquer finish). I used anti-sieze
compound on most of the bolt threads involved in the rebuild, the
head studs were just lightly oiled (per my machinist's
recommendation). I used my Snap-On dial type torque wrench to
measure the torque forces on all the stud-nuts or bolts that have
specifications in the book or for which I could find torque
recommendations from the healey list. I did add that bit of Marvel
Mystery Oil I mentioned above.... not sure exactly why, but it claims
(on it's bottle) that it is good for the initial wear-in period. And
lastly, I tried to prime the oil pump by squirting oil into the oil
galleries and into the supply pipe for the oil filter. I'm not sure
if that made a difference or not, but I had oil pressure right away.
(Before inserting the spark plugs, I gave the engine starter a few
seconds to spin the engine, in the hopes that would get the oil pump
primed and a first coat of oil flowing through most of the
passageways.)
No problems so far.
Part of my reason for this long response to you though is to get your
reaction to all the juices and concoctions I used. I read as much as
I could about rebuilding engines, using both library and internet
bulletin boards to collect recommendations. I never did find a
definitive guide to the proper use of lubrications however, so I came
up with what I did on the basis of what sounded logical or safe to me
at the time. I'm by no means confident that I've done the best that
could be done. I'm likewise not convinced that anyone knows what the
definitive best processes are either. There appear to be a lot of
folk tales and myths involved too. Regardless, I'm going to open up
another engine shortly, so I am interested in what people think is the
"right lubrication regime" to follow for an engine rebuild...(or
perhaps there are several recipes that one can follow, but one needs
to be careful not to mix and match incompatible suites?) ... For
example, I'm not sure when one should use anti-sieze vs plain oil vs
blue locktite.... Those choices seem to be radically different, but I
have observed recommendations (from different sources) to use one or
another of those choices for the head studs. Somehow using blue
locktite didn't sit well with me for the head studs... Similar
discussion for the bolts which secure the shock absorbers to the
shock-towers, should one use oil and a torque wrench? or should one
use lock-tite and a torque wrench?
Maybe if you and others respond with suggestions, I'll try to assemble
a spreadsheet that displays the different recommendations for
different parts of the rebuild.
It seems to me that interesting lubrication issues relate to:
1. mating surfaces on bearings... (on the wear side, I used assembly
lube, on the friction side I used Acetone)
2. mating surfaces for cam lobes and tappets.
3. mating surfaces for tapets and rods, and between rods and rockers
4. freeze plugs... (my machinist inserted those, and it appears he
used some sort of black sealant for those, but I forgot to ask him
what that was... I'll ask him later when I show off the car to him.)
5. mating surfaces for water gaskets ...(water pump, heater valve,
etc.)
6. mating surfaces for front/rear plates
7. mating surfaces for oil seals... (I added the oil seal kit on the
rear part of the drive shaft, and for both that kit and for the front
oil seal on the timing cover I used regular grease on the mating
surfaces)
8. oil pan gasket ... (should one put hylomar on one side of the
gasket and "form-a-gasket" on the other?... I used hylomar everywhere)
9. rocker cover gasket... (hylomar everywhere? or use something
else?)
10. threads of oil distribution pipe between the head and the
rocker...(I didn't use anything, but should I have used teflon? or
thread compound with teflon in it?, or hylomar?, or ????)
11. threads of oil pressure plug (I used nothing on the threads but
hylomar around the copper washer)
12. threads of spin-on-oil adaptor...(I used nothing on the threads,
but hylomar on the mating surfaces)
13. threads of the clutch plate, flywheel, etc. ... (should I have
used locktite?... I torqued it to specification, but used only a thin
coating of oil on the threads)
14. anyplace where gaskets were originally specified but where
gaskets are no longer available.... ( I used a razor and shopping bag
paper to cut out replacement gaskets.)
If anyone has any other special lubrication points, I'd like to
include those too...
Thanks
-Skip-
-----------------------------------------------
"Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
> Skip,
> >lathered parts with assembly lube<
> Hope you didn't use that on the pistons.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 09:27:25 -0700
Subject: Re: camber update
Could be wrong (of course!), but I always thought at least a smidgen of toe-in
was
required ... since the wheels want to track straight ahead, I thought this was
to produce a
little tension on the suspension components to keep things tight.
Or is that "old school" thinking?
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <costan0@attglobal.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: camber update
>
> i believe you will find the general rule of thumb is, if running radial
>tires, no toe-in. set the wheels straight
ahead. the old settings were for bias ply tires.
> Jerry Costanzo wrote:
> >
> >
> > Since most of your suggestions related to checking the Toe-in first. That
> > is what I did. I had check with the archives under camber and was worried
> > that I would be taking the shock mount off. The toe in was 3/8" off and
>has
> > been corrected. It is strange that it was that far off since both my wife
> > and I remember checking it when we rebuilt the front end. I will be
> > checking all the mounting bolts and other front end pieces to make sure
>they
> > are still in place.
> >
> > Now for rotating the tires.
> >
> > thank for your help
> >
> > Jerry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 09:55:31 -0700
Subject: Re: pertronix ignitor
I'm replying to the list since the Pertronix subject seems to be popping up a
lot lately.
I got mine from Skip at ShadeTree Mechanic in Pleasanton, CA. He had the best
price and --
at the time at least -- provided free shipping. He advertises in Austin-Healey
Magazine, but I
don't have a copy here ... maybe another lister can provide a phone number or
address.
No commercial interest, just a happy customer. Skip is very pleasant to deal
with.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "frank yow" <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 2:45 AM
Subject: pertronix ignitor
>
> I have a BT7 with the original distributor, would like a source for a
>pertronix ignitor to fit that distributor. Happy
to have a reply off list. Thanks
> Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stuff like Dave Matthews Band Tickets
>& more!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 10:14:48 -0700
Subject: Re: pertronix ignitor
Thanks to Ed Kaler for providing the correct name for Skip Kelsey's business:
ShadeTree Motors
www.shadetreemotors.com
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "frank yow" <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: pertronix ignitor
>
> I'm replying to the list since the Pertronix subject seems to be popping up a
>lot lately.
>
> I got mine from Skip at ShadeTree Mechanic in Pleasanton, CA. He had the
>best price and --
> at the time at least -- provided free shipping. He advertises in
>Austin-Healey Magazine, but I
> don't have a copy here ... maybe another lister can provide a phone number or
>address.
>
> No commercial interest, just a happy customer. Skip is very pleasant to deal
>with.
>
> Bob
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell
>bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.
>robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
>PP/ASEL
> ***********************************************************************
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "frank yow" <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 2:45 AM
> Subject: pertronix ignitor
>
>
> >
> > I have a BT7 with the original distributor, would like a source for a
>pertronix ignitor to fit that distributor.
Happy
> to have a reply off list. Thanks
> > Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stuff like Dave Matthews Band
>Tickets & more!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 13:26:37 EDT
Subject: Steering Wheel Wobbles
Looking for advice on this problem: The Steering Wheel on my Early BN4
wobbles. Not a suspension problem but something between the steering column
and the steering wheel because it does this when parked. I have an adjustable
steering column fitted with a Motolita Steering Wheel by the previous owner.
The problem occurs where the steering shaft comes out of the tube behind the
dash. The shaft has excessive play within the tube. Seems like I am missing
something. Something should center and support the shaft within the tube. Is
this where the felt bush should be and is that all that centers the shaft in
the tube?
>From the top of the shaft I have a dust cover support for the spring like
cover for the original spring from when it had adjustable steering, and then
the boss for the Motolita Steering wheel clamps on.
Any ideas out there?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 14:24:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Radiator overflow
My experience is that after I shut off my car the temp will continue to rise
about 5-10 degrees before it starts to settle back down, I assume this is
becuase the engine is still giving up heat to the antifreeze and without the
circulation to get rid of it the temp. goes up. I find my BJ8 will continue
to leak out the overflow until it reaches a happy level and then never leaks
again unless I try to overfill it again. Once it reaches a level in the
radiator that it is happy with it does not overflow again. I also have a
new 7 lb. cap on my Healy. Just keep checking the level to see that it is OK
and don't add if you don't need to. Gary S.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 14:58:10 -0400
Subject: mike salter
Would Mike Salter contact me off line. Lost e-mail address. Thanks Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Joseph Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 16:6:3 -0400
Subject: Is this a Healey motor?
--- Joseph Smathers
--- healey27@mindspring.com
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
On a drive to the grocery store on Saturday I was stopped by a fellow who
stated that
he had a never installed Healey engine in a crate in his garage. He
stated he bought
the engine along with a motorcycle from a doctor three years ago. I
asked him to email
me the engine serial numbers and what was in the crate. The email is
below.I can find
no reference to these
numbers in any of my Healey books. Any ideas?
Thanks, Joe
Thanks for the e-mail. I had to partially dismantle the crate to
get these
numbers. On one side of the block was:
12 B 766
M
and on the other side of the block was: G 9LT
I am hoping that the first number is the serial number. Your knowledge of
Healey's is obviously greater than mine, but I am thinking the 66 might
stand
for the manufacture date.
The wooden crate
has: Half
Engine
68G 275
Qty 1
stamped on it.
There is bag of what I believe to be head bolts, and a shaft with a gear on
one end of it that looks like it might be for a distributor. This bag is in
the crate separate from the short block. The short block has
pistons, crank
shaft, and bearings installed, a timing chain installed from crank to cam
gears, and there is a brass petcock on the manifold side of the
block.
That's about it. The short block is coated in cosmoline.
I am glad we happened to meet.
Sincerely,
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 16:28:28 EDT
Subject: BN6/BN7 gear box parts.
Hi All. In an effort to located the source of a persistent gearbox leak, I
used the dye sold by Eastwood and a cheap $10 black lite (post Halloween
sale)! and located the problem. #1 leak and easily fixed was at the rear
required the O/D solenoid bracket cover to be tightened. The other, not so
easily fixed seemed to emerge from around the clutch fork area between the
bellhousing and gearbox case. I removed the gearbox today and discovered a
couple of things, a broken off bolt but even more nasty was the 2 shims
trapped under the bellhousing and mangled since they were not in alignment
when the bellhousing was tightened, hence the broken bolt too. (Not my work!)
Anyway, in looking around I can't locate new shims, they are NA in Moss's
cat. and not in the Nock's or SC spares catalogues. Anyone have a source?
As always,
Thanks and
Cheers,
John Wright
BN6 sideshifter.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 18:31:04 -0400
Subject: RE: Radiator overflow
Gary,
What is the your car's "happy level". The water level in my radiator is at
least
an inch below the neck.
BTW, although the puddle of antifreeze under my car appears dramatic, after
five days of a 50 mile round trip commute, the water level in my radiator
does not
appear to have dropped significantly.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Rebeltown@aol.com [mailto:Rebeltown@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 2:24 PM
To: rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca; schauss@worldnet.att.net;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Radiator overflow
My experience is that after I shut off my car the temp will continue to
rise
about 5-10 degrees before it starts to settle back down, I assume this is
becuase the engine is still giving up heat to the antifreeze and without
the
circulation to get rid of it the temp. goes up. I find my BJ8 will
continue
to leak out the overflow until it reaches a happy level and then never
leaks
again unless I try to overfill it again. Once it reaches a level in the
radiator that it is happy with it does not overflow again. I also have a
new 7 lb. cap on my Healy. Just keep checking the level to see that it is
OK
and don't add if you don't need to. Gary S.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Eli <eke at attglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 18:47:59 -0400
Subject: question about steering idler/gearbox and grease
Hi,
Summer is around the corner and I'm getting my BJ8 ready......
I opened the plug on top of the steering idler and it's empty.... I put
something down I see sign
of grease !!!
Should I just feel it with grease or ????
What should I do about the steering gearbox.... I didn't open it yet....
Please reply to me directly eke@attglobal.net
I appreciate any help.....
Eli
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From D Job <djob at home.com>
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 19:33:51 -0400
Subject: Rick Lees
Could Rick Lees contact me off list
thanks
Derek
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 20:16:03 -0400
Subject: Still Shaking, Boss
During my recent major mechanical rebuild, I had the "scuttle shake mod"
done. Until today I had not driven it up to 65 - 70. Below that I seemed
to notice a firmness up front that i hadn't noticed
before--------------------------however, it still shakes some at 65.
I have new tires and balance--New shocks, various bushings, etc. It's a
little fustrating after waiting all this time for the "cure" just to find it
really wasn't the cure.
Someone here just wrote about the rear brake drums being out of balance.
Maybe I'll try that next.
Tom
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:13:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Fender opening height
Lance -
The distance will be close no matter what sort of tire
you are running on the car. BN1 fenders were cut
lower than BN2 and later healey fenders. Most people
assume front BN1 fenders are the same as all other
healeys, but in acutality this is not the case.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
>
> variable depending upon tire size and rear spring
> condition.
> Lance Werner wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi all:
> > Anyone know what the distance would be from the
> top of the rear tire to the
> > fender opening on a bn1? Been driving the Healey
> alot in the past couple of
> > weeks. Great weather here in the mid-atlantic
> area lately. TIA
> > lance
> > 54 bn1
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:15:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Scuttle Shake Revisited
You might try taking your mother-in-law for a spin!
--- Pete Cowper <pcowper@webtv.net> wrote:
>
> So I probably shouldn't take my 84 year old Mother
> for a Healey ride on
> my 30 year old Michelins on Mother's Day?
>
> Pete Cowper (smoooth riding 1960 BT7)
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:27:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Fender opening height -oops
oops, sorry, was talking about the front fender.
Alan
--- International Investor
<international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Lance -
>
> The distance will be close no matter what sort of
> tire
> you are running on the car. BN1 fenders were cut
> lower than BN2 and later healey fenders. Most
> people
> assume front BN1 fenders are the same as all other
> healeys, but in acutality this is not the case.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> >
> > variable depending upon tire size and rear spring
> > condition.
> > Lance Werner wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi all:
> > > Anyone know what the distance would be from the
> > top of the rear tire to the
> > > fender opening on a bn1? Been driving the
> Healey
> > alot in the past couple of
> > > weeks. Great weather here in the mid-atlantic
> > area lately. TIA
> > > lance
> > > 54 bn1
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great
> prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 22:42:55 -0400
Subject: overdrive accumulator
Hello Listers;
I am rebuilding an early BN1 28% overdrive for a friend. This
overdrive came to me in boxes of parts and was minus the accumulator and
piston. The owner purchased a new accumulator and piston but the new
accumulator has only one O-ring around it`s o.d. and not the two that his
manual says it should have. All the parts books I have seen only show the
style with the one O-ring. I was wondering if this newer style will work or do
I need to find the original double O-ring type accumulator? Thanks in advance
for your help and information...Russ Bamsey
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 00:24:24 -0400
Subject: short lived feeling... help?
Well, my joy at the sound of the motor has been attenuated.
I took the car out for a spin and while the motor seems to just
purr, there is a clicking sound coming from either the bell
housing area or the rear of the motor. It will do it at a rate
that seems about equal to once per revolution.
I removed the valve cover and readjusted the valve clearances.
I thought that perhaps one of the valves/rockers was
misadjusted, but that was not the case, the valves were all at
.012" except for one which was at .010, and three which were at
.014"... I adjusted them all back to .012". Then wiith a
mechanics' stethoscope I listened to each rocker. They all
sound about the same and they are not the source of the
clicking... It must be coming from somewhere else. I double
checked the spark plugs and I'm certain the click of a stray
spark is likewise not the source of the sound.
One of the reasons that I really doubted the valve, rocker,
tappets were not the source of the problem was that the clicking
is not continuous. It doesn't seem to start clicking when the
engine is first started. It seems to wait until I sit in the
car and give the clutch a couple of pumps.... but I'm not
certain of this. Once the clicking does appear, it still does
not run continuously.
Using the mechanic's stethescope, I think I can hear the
clicking coming from either the back end of the engine or the
bell housing... It is very hard to distinguish any difference in
the intensity. I drove the car down the road to a gas station
and filled it up with gas. Upon the return home, the clicking
seemed to be more intense and more steady... but it still would
have moments when there was no clicking at all.
Further checking revealed that I can hear the clicking whether
the car is in neutral or not. It does not seem to care at all
about which gear or whether the overdrive is on or not. The
pace of the clicking is matched to the engine revolution, it
does not seem to change when the car is in different gears.
The clicking is also present whether the clutch is in or out.
It is present when the car is in neutral, when the clutch is
depressed, when the clutch is not depressed, and when the car is
in gear. The intensity of the clicking does not change under
any of the above conditions too. The clicking doesn't seem to
care whether the car is warmed up or not. And under all of the
above conditions, the clicking is not steady... It comes and
goes at it's own whim.
I had installed a new clutch driven plate and a new diaphragm
clutch assembly (including cover with straps and diaphragm
spring, pressure plate, release plate, etc.... all of which were
preassembled) I did not change out the release bearing since
there was almost 0.25" material remaining... (the manual says
the release bearing should be changed if it is down to 0.125"...
I've a long way to go.) The old pressure plate had been
contaminated with a little oil, and the pressure plate had some
scoring plus a little damage in one spot on it's friction
surface. That is why I decided to replace them. There was some
slight scoring on the flywheel, but it was very slight and so I
did not bother to have that reground. When I installed the
clutch driven plate and diaphragm assembly to the flywheel, I
used the little clutch alignment tool that is sold by Moss for
that purpose. I also used a torgue wrench to check on the
tightness of the bolts. I also applied a little grease to the
splines of the layshaft prior to assembling the gear box to the
engine. I have two of the special machined bolts which are
used to align the bellhouse to the engine, and I used them as
the first bolts for aligning the transmission to the engine.
With all of the above steps being taken, I am at a loss for the
source of the clicking sound.
I went into a panic at 7pm this evening and decided to pull the
engine.... I think I set a new personal best record for getting
the engine out of the car. It was certainly a lot easier since
I'd just installed the engine a couple of days ago and all the
bolts were both clean and fresh. By 10pm the engine and
transmission were out of the car and on the garage floor.
(removing the carburetors is still the most challenging part of
the task....getting one's fingers between the carbs for those
inside nuts and washers is a bear!!) After getting the
engine/tranny out of the car, I took the engine and bellhousing
apart and inspected for any stray washers etc. I can not find
any. Further: Every bolt on the clutch assembly was not only
tight, it was at the torque specification listed in the car
manual.
So, now I'm really at a loss or what is the cause. I've
removed all the spark plugs (to reduce compression and allow the
engine to turn easier) and manually cranked the engine a few
times. I can't get it to start clicking again though.
Inspection of all bolts revealed them to all be at their torque
specification. The bell housing is completely clean of dirty
oil or grease. I can find nothing wrong with any of the bolts,
the release bearing has a smooth motion from its "release"
position through its "engage" position, and the flywheel bolts
are all tight and locked with their locking straps.
The only source of clicking that I can find is in the bearing
that surounds the main gear shaft inside the flywheel. That
"bearing" is really a sleeve that seems to reside within the
center of the flywheel, and which seems to centre the gearbox
layshaft inside the flywheel assembly. I can make that
bearing give a sound that seems similar to the clicking by
sticking my finger in it and moving the bearing backwards and
fowards inside the flywheel center hole. There is a little
side to side play too, but very little.
So, with all that information, can someone figure out what is
wrong with my car?.... I have now removed the new clutch
housing, and am tempted to reinstall the older version of the
clutch.
But, before I reassemble the engine and reinstall it into the
car, I thought I'd ask for help. Have any of you encountered
a similar problem?....Do any of you have ideas for more
diagnostic tests?
Thanks in advance
-Skip-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 21:59:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: short lived feeling... help?
Skip -
That little bearing in the crank you are talking about
is actually a bushing. It's called the spigot-bush.
It shouldn't rotate or move at all. Sounds like you
found your problem.
To get at it, I think you have to pull off the
flywheel (can't remember). Since it is loose, you can
probably pull it right out. The bush is soft brass,
and you should be able to tap a new one in using a
copper/plastic punch & mallot. Sounds like you gotta
wait for new one to come by mail! Let me know if you
need suggestions on suppliers.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- skip <tfsbj7@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
> Well, my joy at the sound of the motor has been
> attenuated.
>
> I took the car out for a spin and while the motor
> seems to just
> purr, there is a clicking sound coming from either
> the bell
> housing area or the rear of the motor. It will do
> it at a rate
> that seems about equal to once per revolution.
>
> I removed the valve cover and readjusted the valve
> clearances.
> I thought that perhaps one of the valves/rockers was
> misadjusted, but that was not the case, the valves
> were all at
> .012" except for one which was at .010, and three
> which were at
> .014"... I adjusted them all back to .012". Then
> wiith a
> mechanics' stethoscope I listened to each rocker.
> They all
> sound about the same and they are not the source of
> the
> clicking... It must be coming from somewhere else.
> I double
> checked the spark plugs and I'm certain the click of
> a stray
> spark is likewise not the source of the sound.
>
> One of the reasons that I really doubted the valve,
> rocker,
> tappets were not the source of the problem was that
> the clicking
> is not continuous. It doesn't seem to start
> clicking when the
> engine is first started. It seems to wait until I
> sit in the
> car and give the clutch a couple of pumps.... but
> I'm not
> certain of this. Once the clicking does appear, it
> still does
> not run continuously.
>
> Using the mechanic's stethescope, I think I can hear
> the
> clicking coming from either the back end of the
> engine or the
> bell housing... It is very hard to distinguish any
> difference in
> the intensity. I drove the car down the road to a
> gas station
> and filled it up with gas. Upon the return home,
> the clicking
> seemed to be more intense and more steady... but it
> still would
> have moments when there was no clicking at all.
>
> Further checking revealed that I can hear the
> clicking whether
> the car is in neutral or not. It does not seem to
> care at all
> about which gear or whether the overdrive is on or
> not. The
> pace of the clicking is matched to the engine
> revolution, it
> does not seem to change when the car is in different
> gears.
> The clicking is also present whether the clutch is
> in or out.
> It is present when the car is in neutral, when the
> clutch is
> depressed, when the clutch is not depressed, and
> when the car is
> in gear. The intensity of the clicking does not
> change under
> any of the above conditions too. The clicking
> doesn't seem to
> care whether the car is warmed up or not. And
> under all of the
> above conditions, the clicking is not steady... It
> comes and
> goes at it's own whim.
>
> I had installed a new clutch driven plate and a new
> diaphragm
> clutch assembly (including cover with straps and
> diaphragm
> spring, pressure plate, release plate, etc.... all
> of which were
> preassembled) I did not change out the release
> bearing since
> there was almost 0.25" material remaining... (the
> manual says
> the release bearing should be changed if it is down
> to 0.125"...
> I've a long way to go.) The old pressure plate had
> been
> contaminated with a little oil, and the pressure
> plate had some
> scoring plus a little damage in one spot on it's
> friction
> surface. That is why I decided to replace them.
> There was some
> slight scoring on the flywheel, but it was very
> slight and so I
> did not bother to have that reground. When I
> installed the
> clutch driven plate and diaphragm assembly to the
> flywheel, I
> used the little clutch alignment tool that is sold
> by Moss for
> that purpose. I also used a torgue wrench to check
> on the
> tightness of the bolts. I also applied a little
> grease to the
> splines of the layshaft prior to assembling the gear
> box to the
> engine. I have two of the special machined bolts
> which are
> used to align the bellhouse to the engine, and I
> used them as
> the first bolts for aligning the transmission to the
> engine.
>
> With all of the above steps being taken, I am at a
> loss for the
> source of the clicking sound.
>
> I went into a panic at 7pm this evening and decided
> to pull the
> engine.... I think I set a new personal best record
> for getting
> the engine out of the car. It was certainly a lot
> easier since
> I'd just installed the engine a couple of days ago
> and all the
> bolts were both clean and fresh. By 10pm the
> engine and
> transmission were out of the car and on the garage
> floor.
> (removing the carburetors is still the most
> challenging part of
> the task....getting one's fingers between the carbs
> for those
> inside nuts and washers is a bear!!) After getting
> the
> engine/tranny out of the car, I took the engine and
> bellhousing
> apart and inspected for any stray washers etc. I
> can not find
> any. Further: Every bolt on the clutch assembly
> was not only
> tight, it was at the torque specification listed in
> the car
> manual.
>
> So, now I'm really at a loss or what is the cause.
> I've
> removed all the spark plugs (to reduce compression
> and allow the
> engine to turn easier) and manually cranked the
> engine a few
> times. I can't get it to start clicking again
> though.
> Inspection of all bolts revealed them to all be at
> their torque
> specification. The bell housing is completely clean
> of dirty
> oil or grease. I can find nothing wrong with any
> of the bolts,
> the release bearing has a smooth motion from its
> "release"
> position through its "engage" position, and the
> flywheel bolts
> are all tight and locked with their locking straps.
>
> The only source of clicking that I can find is in
> the bearing
> that surounds the main gear shaft inside the
> flywheel. That
> "bearing" is really a sleeve that seems to reside
> within the
> center of the flywheel, and which seems to centre
> the gearbox
> layshaft inside the flywheel assembly. I can make
> that
> bearing give a sound that seems similar to the
> clicking by
> sticking my finger in it and moving the bearing
> backwards and
> fowards inside the flywheel center hole. There is
> a little
> side to side play too, but very little.
>
> So, with all that information, can someone figure
> out what is
> wrong with my car?.... I have now removed the new
> clutch
> housing, and am tempted to reinstall the older
> version
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 06:26:10 -0400
Subject: Re: short lived feeling... help?
Thanks Alan, I see that Moss has them for about $6... I'll get
them to fedex one to me tonight. You suggest tapping in the new
one with a soft mallet... Question: Is there some kind of
dressing one should use before inserting the Spigot Bush?...
Should there be some locktite or something put on it to keep it
from moving?... Thanks in advance....
Roland Wilhelmy reminded me about the special stud/bolts.
However, I have two (actually I have 6 in the house!!!!... only
two on this car) of those and I had installed them. One is on
the upper driver's side holes in the engine
back-plate/bellhousing and the other is on the lower passenger's
side holes. Those seem to be the only holes in the engine
plate in which the stud/bolts have a tight fit. The other
bolt-holes seem to be a sloppy fit.
Tim Moran makes a good arguement against the First Motion Shaft
Bush (as it is shown in the Bentley Manual), or the Spigot Bush
(as it is known in the Moss Catalog for 3000 engines, or Pilot
Bush (as it is known in the Moss Catalog for 100-4 engines....
interesting that the Pilot Bush and Spigot Bush have the same
part number).
He points out that all of these parts are rotating together when
the car is in gear. I'm certain that I heard the clicking with
the car in gear, when the car was not in gear, and also when the
clutch was dis-engaged. The first two circumstances in the
previous sentence have the clutch engaged and indeed the first
motion shaft and crankshaft should be turning as a unit, and the
third circumstance should have the first motion shaft still
while the crankshaft is spinning. I could not really tell a
difference in the intensity of the clicking sound among any of
the three configurations, but suspect that if it is indeed the
spigot bush, the noise is coming from the bush being able to
move fore and aft in its hole.
Tim suggests that I double check the rod caps for tightness.
That is probably a good idea and will be my next move.
However, I doubt that I have a problem inside the engine block
because the clicking is not consistent.
After more thought, I'm thinking that Tim may have hit on a
reason why it is the Spigot Bush.... He noted that with the
clutch engaged, all the parts are spinning together. I think
I'm remembering that I mostly don't notice the clicking until
the car has been running for a short while and I depress the
clutch... That might imply that indeed when the engine
crankshaft/first motion shaft are turning as a unit, I don't
have any clicking initiated. Not until but I depress the
clutch is there enough wobble in the spigot bush that it starts
to move around a bit. However, once it has started to wobble,
it can continue to wobble (intermittently) in either
configuration (clutch in or clutch out). That might explain
the intermittent nature of the sound.
With the engine and bellhousing disconnected, I've tried to turn
the engine by hand (can't do that very fast though...:-) ) I
can not reproduce the clicking or anything that remotely sounds
like it. So, I'm again feeling pretty good that the innards
of the engine are ok. Nevertheless, I'm taking Tim's advice
and going to look inside just to be sure...
I'm still open to suggestions of course, so if anyone else has
ideas... I'm "all ears"...
Thanks in advance
-Skip-
International Investor wrote:
> Skip -
>
> That little bearing in the crank you are talking about
> is actually a bushing. It's called the spigot-bush.
> It shouldn't rotate or move at all. Sounds like you
> found your problem.
>
> To get at it, I think you have to pull off the
> flywheel (can't remember). Since it is loose, you can
> probably pull it right out. The bush is soft brass,
> and you should be able to tap a new one in using a
> copper/plastic punch & mallot. Sounds like you gotta
> wait for new one to come by mail! Let me know if you
> need suggestions on suppliers.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 21:00:10 +1000
Subject: Re: Is this a Healey motor? - Sure is - its a 'late' BJ8!!!
Hi Joseph,
Congratulations!!
12B766 indicates to me you have a late model 3 litre block, almost in your
hot little hands....
It is, I believe, the 'high dipstick' 3 litre block - ala BJ8 or late model
3 litre Austin / Wolseley Sedan (I have a spare "High dipstick' Wolesley 3
litre engine under my bench - it has the same casting number). I can't
check the casting number on my original BJ8 engine in my car - the casting
number is high on the block, on the manifold side, and I can't see past the
triple webers & extractors!!
However, according to my BJ8 parts list (AKD 3523 issue 7, page MA 1.1,
1969), part number 68G275 is "Engine unit - half 2912cc from engine
number 29K/H279 on, engine number 29KFA/H224 on" - so I think that confirms
it!!
So now - tell us you have a 4 cylinder Healey - and you don't want this
engine!!!
Best regards
Chris
_______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1964 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Smathers" <healey27@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 12:00 AM
Subject: Is this a Healey motor?
>
> --- Joseph Smathers
>
> --- healey27@mindspring.com
>
> --- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
>
>
>
> On a drive to the grocery store on Saturday I was stopped by a fellow who
> stated that
>
> he had a never installed Healey engine in a crate in his garage. He
> stated he bought
>
> the engine along with a motorcycle from a doctor three years ago. I
> asked him to email
>
> me the engine serial numbers and what was in the crate. The email is
> below.I can find
>
> no reference to these
> numbers in any of my Healey books. Any ideas?
>
>
> Thanks, Joe
>
>
>
> Thanks for the e-mail. I had to partially dismantle the crate to
> get these
>
> numbers. On one side of the block was:
>
>
>
> 12 B 766
>
> M
>
>
>
> and on the other side of the block was: G 9LT
>
>
>
> I am hoping that the first number is the serial number. Your knowledge of
>
>
> Healey's is obviously greater than mine, but I am thinking the 66 might
> stand
>
> for the manufacture date.
>
>
>
> The wooden crate
> has: Half
> Engine
>
>
> 68G 275
>
>
> Qty 1
>
> stamped on it.
>
>
>
> There is bag of what I believe to be head bolts, and a shaft with a gear
on
>
>
> one end of it that looks like it might be for a distributor. This bag is
in
>
>
> the crate separate from the short block. The short block has
> pistons, crank
>
> shaft, and bearings installed, a timing chain installed from crank to cam
>
>
> gears, and there is a brass petcock on the manifold side of the
> block.
>
> That's about it. The short block is coated in cosmoline.
>
>
>
> I am glad we happened to meet.
>
>
>
> Sincerely,
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 04:07:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: short lived feeling... help?
Skip -
Up late I see!
If the spigot bush is loose, it can flop around inside
the crank whether the clutch is engaged or not.
Stepping on the clutch will probably make it flop
around more actively...
As far as pressing bushes in... I've never used
dressing to install a bush. The outsides are usually
nice and soft and will slip right in with light
tapping. The key, however, is to make sure that the
implement you use to tap it in is even softer than the
bush... a copper mallot, or ideally a nice rubber
mallot. The rawhide mallot should work pretty well
also.
If the mallot is too big to get it flush to the
surface, see if you can find either a plastic or
copper punch at your local hardware store (it should
have a wide surface on it, not a point). The best way
is to have the thing pressed in, but with the motor
assembled, I think tapping it in will be much easier.
Don't dissassemble the engine to press it in, it's not
that important! This particular bush is the least
stressed of any on the car, so tapping it in with a
soft mallot/punch shouldn't represent any problems.
Just be sure you put a fair amount of high quality
grease (moly lube?) inside the bush once it's in.
This should help to significantly extend the life of
the bush.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- skip <tfsbj7@mindspring.com> wrote:
> Thanks Alan, I see that Moss has them for about
> $6... I'll get
> them to fedex one to me tonight. You suggest tapping
> in the new
> one with a soft mallet... Question: Is there some
> kind of
> dressing one should use before inserting the Spigot
> Bush?...
> Should there be some locktite or something put on it
> to keep it
> from moving?... Thanks in advance....
>
> Roland Wilhelmy reminded me about the special
> stud/bolts.
> However, I have two (actually I have 6 in the
> house!!!!... only
> two on this car) of those and I had installed them.
> One is on
> the upper driver's side holes in the engine
> back-plate/bellhousing and the other is on the lower
> passenger's
> side holes. Those seem to be the only holes in the
> engine
> plate in which the stud/bolts have a tight fit. The
> other
> bolt-holes seem to be a sloppy fit.
>
> Tim Moran makes a good arguement against the First
> Motion Shaft
> Bush (as it is shown in the Bentley Manual), or the
> Spigot Bush
> (as it is known in the Moss Catalog for 3000
> engines, or Pilot
> Bush (as it is known in the Moss Catalog for 100-4
> engines....
> interesting that the Pilot Bush and Spigot Bush have
> the same
> part number).
> He points out that all of these parts are rotating
> together when
> the car is in gear. I'm certain that I heard the
> clicking with
> the car in gear, when the car was not in gear, and
> also when the
> clutch was dis-engaged. The first two
> circumstances in the
> previous sentence have the clutch engaged and indeed
> the first
> motion shaft and crankshaft should be turning as a
> unit, and the
> third circumstance should have the first motion
> shaft still
> while the crankshaft is spinning. I could not
> really tell a
> difference in the intensity of the clicking sound
> among any of
> the three configurations, but suspect that if it is
> indeed the
> spigot bush, the noise is coming from the bush being
> able to
> move fore and aft in its hole.
>
> Tim suggests that I double check the rod caps for
> tightness.
> That is probably a good idea and will be my next
> move.
> However, I doubt that I have a problem inside the
> engine block
> because the clicking is not consistent.
>
> After more thought, I'm thinking that Tim may have
> hit on a
> reason why it is the Spigot Bush.... He noted that
> with the
> clutch engaged, all the parts are spinning together.
> I think
> I'm remembering that I mostly don't notice the
> clicking until
> the car has been running for a short while and I
> depress the
> clutch... That might imply that indeed when the
> engine
> crankshaft/first motion shaft are turning as a unit,
> I don't
> have any clicking initiated. Not until but I
> depress the
> clutch is there enough wobble in the spigot bush
> that it starts
> to move around a bit. However, once it has started
> to wobble,
> it can continue to wobble (intermittently) in either
> configuration (clutch in or clutch out). That
> might explain
> the intermittent nature of the sound.
>
> With the engine and bellhousing disconnected, I've
> tried to turn
> the engine by hand (can't do that very fast
> though...:-) ) I
> can not reproduce the clicking or anything that
> remotely sounds
> like it. So, I'm again feeling pretty good that
> the innards
> of the engine are ok. Nevertheless, I'm taking
> Tim's advice
> and going to look inside just to be sure...
>
> I'm still open to suggestions of course, so if
> anyone else has
> ideas... I'm "all ears"...
>
> Thanks in advance
> -Skip-
>
>
>
>
>
> International Investor wrote:
>
> > Skip -
> >
> > That little bearing in the crank you are talking
> about
> > is actually a bushing. It's called the
> spigot-bush.
> > It shouldn't rotate or move at all. Sounds like
> you
> > found your problem.
> >
> > To get at it, I think you have to pull off the
> > flywheel (can't remember). Since it is loose, you
> can
> > probably pull it right out. The bush is soft
> brass,
> > and you should be able to tap a new one in using a
> > copper/plastic punch & mallot. Sounds like you
> gotta
> > wait for new one to come by mail! Let me know if
> you
> > need suggestions on suppliers.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 07:33:46 -0400
Subject: Re: short lived feeling... help?
Thanks Chris,
Yes the cam/cam followers are all new... fresh from Dennis Welch.
Good idea though.... thanks
You mention that "it doesn't matter if it turns inside the crank"... hmmm do you
know how much slop is acceptable?... I've not yet run across a spec, but that
would be interesting to discover.....
thanks
-skip-
Chris Dimmock wrote:
> Hi Skip,
>
> > I'm still open to suggestions of course, so if anyone else has
> > ideas... I'm "all ears"...
>
> A ticking sound from the engine can also be worn little ends/ gudgeons: or
> badly worn cam lobes /cam followers. My BJ8 had a ticking noise - the
> general consensus was little ends. When I stripped the engine - I found 2
> 'flat' cam lobes, and 4 cam followers were through the case hardening -
> little ends were fine....... the noise was the cam/ cam followers.
>
> Did you check the cam/ cam followers? Were they ok? Did you replace the cam,
> or get it reground ?
>
> I'l replace the spigot bush anyway - grease it lightly with a high melting
> point grease, inside & outside (you don't want the grease - and thats why
> you don't use oil - on your clutch.) It will probably slip in on the end of
> your finger. Its phosphor bronze - so it really doesn't matter if it turns
> inside the end of the crank, as well as the shaft turning inside the bush -
> ie inside & outside are both bearing surfaces (unlike, say, big end
> bearings).
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Chris
> _______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
> 1964 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
> 'one of the first and one of the last'
> http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
> ______________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:42:06 -0400
Subject: Re: overdrive accumulator
Russ,
The single O-ring type accumulator piston sleeve will work fine.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549@worldchat.com>
To: "Healeys@autoxteam.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 10:42 PM
Subject: overdrive accumulator
>
> Hello Listers;
> I am rebuilding an early BN1 28% overdrive for a friend. This
> overdrive came to me in boxes of parts and was minus the accumulator and
> piston. The owner purchased a new accumulator and piston but the new
> accumulator has only one O-ring around it`s o.d. and not the two that his
> manual says it should have. All the parts books I have seen only show the
> style with the one O-ring. I was wondering if this newer style will work
or do
> I need to find the original double O-ring type accumulator? Thanks in
advance
> for your help and information...Russ Bamsey
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 09:53:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Still Shaking, Boss
Tom,
Did you check your steering side rods? Worn ball joints in these or the
center cross rod can also contribute to scuttle shake.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
p.s. -- How many hard-boiled eggs can you eat at one sitting?
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 8:16 PM
Subject: Still Shaking, Boss
>
> During my recent major mechanical rebuild, I had the "scuttle shake mod"
> done. Until today I had not driven it up to 65 - 70. Below that I seemed
> to notice a firmness up front that i hadn't noticed
> before--------------------------however, it still shakes some at 65.
>
> I have new tires and balance--New shocks, various bushings, etc. It's a
> little fustrating after waiting all this time for the "cure" just to find
it
> really wasn't the cure.
>
> Someone here just wrote about the rear brake drums being out of balance.
> Maybe I'll try that next.
>
> Tom
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 10:22:36 -0400
Subject: spoke paint color
I just finished having my rims rebuilt by Dayton Wirewheel.
BTW, they did an excellent job and the price was very reasonable.
What I would like to know is what is the paint color for touching up
the rim and spokes when they get chipped? Any help would be
appreciated.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road......finally
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 10:04:51 -0800
Subject: Crane Electronic Ignition for 6-Cyl. Healeys
Anyone tried this? I am considering Crane ignition, so would appreciate any
shared experiences with installation, performance, reliability, etc. Thanks -
John, BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 09:01:55 -0700
Subject: Best Healey ebay add ever...
You have got to go read this. It makes me want to buy another 100!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=587042250&r=0&t=0
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RCT2BNC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 12:22:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Best Healey ebay add ever...
Does anyone know the origin or history of this car. BTW the salesmanship is
incredible.
Ben Cohen
Tucson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Cowan <terry at toyshop-resto.com>
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 10:13:00 -0700
Subject: Fwd: ALERT!!! LOST STOLEN OR WHAT???
>Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 10:00:04 -0700
>To: owner-vintage-race@autox.team.net
>From: Terry Cowan <terry@toyshop-resto.com>
>Subject: ALERT!!! LOST STOLEN OR WHAT???
>
>>Dear fellow racing/car people I need some help with a situation that has
>>not happened to me at a
>>Vintage Race ever before someone picked up a bag containing some snap on
>>tools, my fanny pac
>my point and shoot camera fender cover and misc hand tools.
>
>The bag was a doubled up Trader Joe's brown paper shopping bag with a
>large round red trader Joe's
>Logo we were pitted at the North East end of the Buttonwillow race track
>near the skid pad. This was
>this last weekend May 5&6 for the Moss Motors Extravaganza car show etc etc!!
>
>We had Rick Snover's blue Speedwell Roadster #17 and my Red/Orange Sebring
>Coupe Sprite #22
>with a ford box van with British Speedwell Racing on the side and next to
>that was Ricks teal blue 95
>Mustang GT
>
>The Bag Contained the following
>
>Snap on tuning screwdriver set in long flat red bag that snaps in the
>middle and open out to access
>the ten black handled screwdrivers.
>
>Engine stethascope and extension red/ aluminum & stainless
>
>Brown cloth fender cover
>
>Black point & shoot camera Canon with tape holding the battery cover on.
>
>Craftsman timing light Chrome & Black
>
>Black Sierra fanny pack torn on top, with all the usual stuff inside, car
>& house keys
> with small Swiss Army knife, & can opener key fobs. Honda keys x 2, PO
> box key
>
>Small black organizer with all my personal #s etc not replaceable.
>
>Wallet grey with felcro edge with all the kid/family photos not relaceable
>
>Nascar check book cover with checks, Blue
>
>Reading Glasses in tan case
>
>Hair brush etc
>
>Thanks for any help anyone can offer, I will pay a reward for its return
>and no questions asked
>perhaps someone just picked it up for safe keeping.
>
>I can be reached at 619-477-2906 or 800-798-6469 please leave a message if
>I don't answer.
>
>Thanks in advance Cheer's Terry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 14:12:51 -0400
Subject: Re: short lived feeling... help?
Thanks Mark....
The noise was present during acceleration, during coasting, during
straight driving,... (or it was not there, depending???... the noise is
definitely intermitent...) Oil pressure seems solid... runs at about
55lbs when the engine revs are above about 2k, and drops to about 40lbs at
idle (800 rpm). The sound isn't a "knock" it is more a "click". And,
the click seems to be in pace with the engine revs, not the driveshaft....
So, I'm pretty sure there is nothing contributing to the click from the
tranny. (I never opened or touched the tranny, so I'd have been
surprised if that were malfunctioning anyway...)
... Being impatient, I've already removed the engine, disconnected it
from the transmission and seem to be able to make a sound somewhat similar
to the clicking by sticking my finger in the pilot bush and
pulling/pushing it back and forth in the crankshaft seat where the pilot
bush resides... I've ordered a new one from Moss and expect to have it
installed and the car running by tomorrow night....:-)...
Meanwhile, I followed the advice from the archive and used the "old
mechanic's trick of packing the hole with grease and striking a wooden
dowel with a hammer"... what a neat thing that is. I found a broom
handle that would just fit inside the pilot bearing. I cut off about 8
inches of it and pumped a couple of strokes from the grease gun into the
hole. Then inserting the dowel into the bush hole, I just gave it a
couple of light taps and the bush just eased right out!!.. wonderful...
The bush is scored (but only very slightly) around about 80% of its
depth. The inside of the bush looks very smooth and the layshaft is in
excellent condition. The inside of the crankshaft looks to be in
excellent condition too... only the bush has had wear. The portion of
the bush wear appears to be only about a mil or two, but it is enough (I
guess) for the bush to be quite loose in the crankshaft seat. (It
wasn't quite loose enough for me to be able to pop it out by hand, but the
grease trick worked like a charm.)
Anyway, taking some other lister's advice I also popped open the oil
pan. It has very fresh oil in it (only have about 10 miles on the
rebuilt engine) and virtually no debris in the oil.. I checked the torque
settings on the rod and main bearings and everything looks wonderful. I
know there is no slop in the bearings, because my machinist did a very
good job at sizing the big ends and reassembling the pistons/wrist pins
for me... those all looked perfect when I assembled them, and so I'm
confident there are no internal oil related issues. I also checked the
thrust bearings and they are within tolerance too...
One thing struck me though.... the dipstick is incredibly close to one of
the rod big ends. If I twist the dipstick in its little pipe, it moves
to within about 1/8" of one of the rod caps...(when the crankshaft is in
the position that moves the rod assembly close to the side of the block on
which the dipstick resides)... If I twist the dipstick 360 degrees in it's
pipe its nearest approach appears to be about 1/8" and it's furthest
distance is about 3/4"... I was wondering if perhaps the clicking was the
sound of the dipstick getting some light love taps from the rod end
cap.... There were no marks indicating such an event on the dipstick, but
perhaps they were very light touches and I arrested the problem before it
had a chance to make permanent scratches?...
Anyway, I won't know if that is the culprit until I reassemble the engine
and try again. (I hope the pilot bearing is really the issue and this
thread can end...:-)
Alan Schultz suggested I check on the starter assembly to be sure there
aren't any stray pieces of a split pin or something that is coming in
contact with the flywheel... I did check that, but I didn't notice
anything out of whack there...(but I did notice that the split pin at the
end of the starter cog gear was indeed movable. However, it seems to be
undamaged and the pin is made of such light metal that I think it would
have indicated scratches if they'd occurred.)
I'm in the process of buttoning the engine back together.... and will
install the new bush tomorrow morning. Then I'll reconnect the tranny to
the engine and drop the whole thing back into the engine bay. I suspect
I'll be back on the road tomorrow night...
(but... any more cautions as to what to look for are very much
appreciated... I don't want to pull the engine again for awhile...:-)...it
takes me nearly 3 hours to remove it/install it.... so if you all think of
something else to examine, I'll do it now before I reassemble
things...:-)...
Thanks
-Skip-
Mark Fawcett wrote:
> Skip,
> I've been listening to this thread, but I may have missed some of it.
> I would ask if the noise would continue while accelerating or if it
> would cease during acceleration and start again when speed leveled
> out? Is the "tone" of the clicking a more high pitched one or a lower
> tone, more like a knock? Is there any fluctuation in the oil pressure
> for no apparent reason? A lower toned knock with good steady oil
> pressure that ceases during acceleration can indicate a rod knock. If
> the oil pressure fluctuates it could be a main bearing knock. Did you
> check the thrust bearings for proper clearance? I've rebuilt my
> engine, but haven't put it in the car yet. I hope you find out your
> problem soon and hope there is no damage. Good luck.
> Mark Fawcett
> 60 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Cowan <terry at toyshop-resto.com>
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 11:51:18 -0700
Subject: : ALERT!!! LOST STOLEN OR WHAT # 2
>>Hi again someone suggested I put the mailing address in as well
The Toy Shop Restorations
P.O. Box 1965
Bonita Ca 91908-1965
>>Thanks for any help anyone can offer, I will pay a reward for its return
>>and no questions asked
>>perhaps someone just picked it up for safe keeping.
>>
>>I can be reached at 619-477-2906 or 800-798-6469 please leave a message
>>if I don't answer.
>>
>>Thanks in advance Cheer's Terry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 14:47:42 EDT
Subject: gearbox age?
Hi all. Can someone give me a clue to the approximate age of my side shift
gearbox #B8989. I believe it must be a BN7 as it has a front seal.
Thanks,
John Wright
BN1
BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 15:01:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Correct Parts
Hi,
I'm looking for OEM correct screws to secure the tank sending unit (and
crush washers) and the correct wire strap for the rubber connector
between the tank and the filler pipe. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 16:22:34 EDT
Subject: gearbox age pt2
Hi all. turns out the aforementioned front seal was not original to this
gearbox. Was simply slipped over the inside boss of the machined oil return
screw in the bell housing. No machining for the seal was done. The phantom
gearbox rebuilder strikes again!
Cheers,
John Wright
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 16:20:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Still Shaking, Boss
Tom -
Did you have your wheels/tires balanced by the "proper equipment", or just
at the local tire store? Were the wheels trued?
I did Bill Bolton's Anti-Scuttle-Shake Mod to my car, but I also had Allen
Hendrix true and balance all my wheels (Dayton chromies with stainless
spokes, claimed when I bought them from the West Coast guys never to need
truing). I have not yet had the brake drums balanced, but all the shaking
from my car has totally disappeared, and I can take it up to 80 without any
serious vibration (having experienced two rear tire blowouts last year at
speed, I'm not anxious to explore speeds over 80). As I understand it, the
cars are prone to "scuttle shake" from a variety of sources, and the
strengthening of the firewall will help to eliminate much of the vibration
transmitted by many of the sources. But if the wheels and tires are not
properly balanced using the centering cones, or are untrue, then the
firewall mod alone is not likely to stop the shaking.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 8:16 PM
Subject: Still Shaking, Boss
>
> During my recent major mechanical rebuild, I had the "scuttle shake mod"
> done. Until today I had not driven it up to 65 - 70. Below that I seemed
> to notice a firmness up front that i hadn't noticed
> before--------------------------however, it still shakes some at 65.
>
> I have new tires and balance--New shocks, various bushings, etc. It's a
> little fustrating after waiting all this time for the "cure" just to find
it
> really wasn't the cure.
>
> Someone here just wrote about the rear brake drums being out of balance.
> Maybe I'll try that next.
>
> Tom
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 17:04:24 EDT
Subject: No Healy Content
A husband and wife were having dinner at a very fine restaurant when
this absolutely stunning young woman comes over to their table, gives the
husband a big open mouthed kiss, then says she'll see him later and walks
away.
The wife glares at her husband and says, "Who the hell was that?"
"Oh," replies the husband, "she's my mistress."
"Well, that's the last straw," says the wife. "I've had enough, I want a
divorce." "I can understand that," replies her husband, "but remember, if we
get a divorce it will mean no more shopping trips to Paris,
> no more wintering in Barbados, no more summers in Tuscany, no more Infiniti
or Lexus in the garage and no more yacht club. But the decision is yours."
Just then, a mutual friend enters the restaurant with a gorgeous babe on his
arm.
"Who's that woman with Jim?" asks the wife.
"That's his mistress," says her husband.
"Ours is prettier," she replies.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DavidNLonsdale at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 17:11:14 EDT
Subject: short-lived feeling, etc
Dear Skip,
Don't know if this is applicable to your model, but are you sure the rev
counter cable is not faulty. I had a problem with my Jaguar XK where the
cable was making a clicking noise.
Regards,
David Lonsdale,
UK
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 15:19:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Best Healey ebay add ever...
I want to clear this up:
I ment this is the best advertisement for a Healey I ever saw.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=587042250&r=0&t=0
I DO NOT KNOW THIS CAR!
I have never seen it, and do not know the owner.
There, Thank you,
Brian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 18:42:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Crane Electronic Ignition for 6-Cyl. Healeys
I have installed the the Crane 700-0231 in a few cars (MGBs, Sprites, and Big
Healeys), except for 1 DOA they have worked well and been very reliable if
installed correctly. I have had the XR700 in my Bugeye for 3 years and 7000
miles with no problems. I installed the XR3000 in my 100-6 a couple months
back and it has been great. You can buy these directly from Crane for less
than the usual suppliers are charging and shipping is free. The XR700 costs
$89.03 and the XR3000 is $115.82. www.cranecams.com
Regards,
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte, NC
jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us writes:
> Anyone tried this? I am considering Crane ignition, so would appreciate any
> shared experiences with installation, performance, reliability, etc. Thanks
> -
> John, BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 18:18:23 -0700
Subject: Re: short lived feeling... help?
First (only?) thing I thought of was the starter gear contacting the ring gear.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "skip" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "International Investor" <international_investor@yahoo.com>; "Healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 3:26 AM
Subject: Re: short lived feeling... help?
>
> Thanks Alan, I see that Moss has them for about $6... I'll get
> them to fedex one to me tonight. You suggest tapping in the new
> one with a soft mallet... Question: Is there some kind of
> dressing one should use before inserting the Spigot Bush?...
> Should there be some locktite or something put on it to keep it
> from moving?... Thanks in advance....
>
> Roland Wilhelmy reminded me about the special stud/bolts.
> However, I have two (actually I have 6 in the house!!!!... only
> two on this car) of those and I had installed them. One is on
> the upper driver's side holes in the engine
> back-plate/bellhousing and the other is on the lower passenger's
> side holes. Those seem to be the only holes in the engine
> plate in which the stud/bolts have a tight fit. The other
> bolt-holes seem to be a sloppy fit.
>
> Tim Moran makes a good arguement against the First Motion Shaft
> Bush (as it is shown in the Bentley Manual), or the Spigot Bush
> (as it is known in the Moss Catalog for 3000 engines, or Pilot
> Bush (as it is known in the Moss Catalog for 100-4 engines....
> interesting that the Pilot Bush and Spigot Bush have the same
> part number).
> He points out that all of these parts are rotating together when
> the car is in gear. I'm certain that I heard the clicking with
> the car in gear, when the car was not in gear, and also when the
> clutch was dis-engaged. The first two circumstances in the
> previous sentence have the clutch engaged and indeed the first
> motion shaft and crankshaft should be turning as a unit, and the
> third circumstance should have the first motion shaft still
> while the crankshaft is spinning. I could not really tell a
> difference in the intensity of the clicking sound among any of
> the three configurations, but suspect that if it is indeed the
> spigot bush, the noise is coming from the bush being able to
> move fore and aft in its hole.
>
> Tim suggests that I double check the rod caps for tightness.
> That is probably a good idea and will be my next move.
> However, I doubt that I have a problem inside the engine block
> because the clicking is not consistent.
>
> After more thought, I'm thinking that Tim may have hit on a
> reason why it is the Spigot Bush.... He noted that with the
> clutch engaged, all the parts are spinning together. I think
> I'm remembering that I mostly don't notice the clicking until
> the car has been running for a short while and I depress the
> clutch... That might imply that indeed when the engine
> crankshaft/first motion shaft are turning as a unit, I don't
> have any clicking initiated. Not until but I depress the
> clutch is there enough wobble in the spigot bush that it starts
> to move around a bit. However, once it has started to wobble,
> it can continue to wobble (intermittently) in either
> configuration (clutch in or clutch out). That might explain
> the intermittent nature of the sound.
>
> With the engine and bellhousing disconnected, I've tried to turn
> the engine by hand (can't do that very fast though...:-) ) I
> can not reproduce the clicking or anything that remotely sounds
> like it. So, I'm again feeling pretty good that the innards
> of the engine are ok. Nevertheless, I'm taking Tim's advice
> and going to look inside just to be sure...
>
> I'm still open to suggestions of course, so if anyone else has
> ideas... I'm "all ears"...
>
> Thanks in advance
> -Skip-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 18:27:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Best Healey ebay add ever...
"0 miles" no less!
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 9:01 AM
Subject: Best Healey ebay add ever...
>
> You have got to go read this. It makes me want to buy another 100!
>
>
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=587042250&r=0&t=0
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 07:08:23 EDT
Subject: steering box oil leak
My BN4 has developed a steering box oil leak. (early BN4's have the same
steering box as BN2's) Not enough time for me to rebuild right now and I've
got car event commitments for the next several weekends so I'm looking for a
short term fix.
I know that some have solved this problem by filling the box with grease.
Exactly how do you do it? What kind of grease do you use? Regular suspension
grease like you use in a grease gun or something else? Just stick the gun in
the oil fill hole and pump away or any other method preferred?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de
Date: 8 May 2001 13:04:48 +0000
Subject: AW:steering box oil leak
Penride-Oil produces a steering-box grease which works fine - no leaks any
more. A lot of friends use it. I do not know of any damage caused by this
grease. But do not know if it is available in the States.
Hope this may help.
Josef Eckert
Germany
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 00:21:21 +1000
Subject: Fw: steering box oil leak
I posted a similar question recently and, from the advise, used Penrite
Steering Lube (I'm not sure if it's available up there). Normal grease
apparently doesn't
do the job sufficiently. The Steering Lube is classed as "self-levelling"
and does not throw out from the critical areas. I have attached a couple of
scans from the Penrite brochure, or you could try their website
www.penrite.com.au
I know Penrite is available in Australia and Britain but not sure about
Stateside. I am sure someone there must also make a similar product. Since
using the grease I seem to have fixed the leak.
I found the easiest way to get it into the box was to heat it in a pan of
hot water and pour it into a grease gun with the nipple fitting removed and
then pump.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
> My BN4 has developed a steering box oil leak. (early BN4's have the same
> steering box as BN2's) Not enough time for me to rebuild right now and
I've
> got car event commitments for the next several weekends so I'm looking for
a
> short term fix.
>
> I know that some have solved this problem by filling the box with grease.
> Exactly how do you do it? What kind of grease do you use? Regular
suspension
> grease like you use in a grease gun or something else? Just stick the gun
in
> the oil fill hole and pump away or any other method preferred?
>
> Thanks for any suggestions.
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 10:58:16 -0400
Subject: pilot bush
Well, I've collected a lot of good suggestions from people, I
did a lot of checking around the engine, but nothing other than
the pilot bush seems to be faulty. (at least that I can
find...)
And, the new bush arrived 25 minutes ago. I measured the
outside diameter of the old bush. The old bush was 0.997" in
diameter. The new bush is 1.003" diameter. I don't own an
inside micrometer, but both bushes slide on the layshaft with
about the same feel.... I'm about to stick the new bush in
and then see how long it takes me to reinstall the engine...
Thanks for everyone's help/advice... I'll post a status after
the car is back on the road (hopefully a gleeful status...)
-later-
skip
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bill Gildea" <bill at execrecruiter.com>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 11:49:32 -0400
Subject: Brake Servo Rebuild
Eli Egozi, my next door neigbor who also owns a BJ8, heard through this
group that Power Brake Exchange in San Jose, CA rebuilds Servos. I called
them and they quoted $227.00 to rebuild my unit. Has anyone in the group
used their service, so Ican get a feel whether the $227 is a smart
investment vs. $400+ for a Lockheed replacement and brackets & lines?
Thanks in advance to all the gurus on this list.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 13:06:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Servo Rebuild
Bill,
I'm going to go with Bill Katz on this one and recommend Power Brake
Exchange. I have only dealt with them once, fitting a pair of their
rebuilds
a few weeks ago, but they did a nice job and the owner (MGC) is pleased
with the results. Can't vouch for longevity yet, but the price is
unbeatable.
I also don't know details of their warranty; Bill might. The number I have
for them is (408) 292-1305.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Gildea" <bill@execrecruiter.com>
To: "Group Healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <eke@attglobal.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 11:49 AM
Subject: Brake Servo Rebuild
>
> Eli Egozi, my next door neigbor who also owns a BJ8, heard through this
> group that Power Brake Exchange in San Jose, CA rebuilds Servos. I called
> them and they quoted $227.00 to rebuild my unit. Has anyone in the group
> used their service, so Ican get a feel whether the $227 is a smart
> investment vs. $400+ for a Lockheed replacement and brackets & lines?
> Thanks in advance to all the gurus on this list.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 11:37:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Strange, spooky steering sensation.
My BJ8 is behaving badly at speed. Ill be cruising at about 60 mph and it
will float for a moment. Its not a hard jolt, like going over an expansion
joint on a turn, but more like a gust of wind pushing the car sideways. It's
not like a pull to on side either, it's more like a steering disconnect. Its
quite pronounced, even the passenger noticed it. Probably happens about every
5 miles or so with no apparent trigger.
This is while going straight on a smooth freeway. Its extremely
disconcerting. The sensation of driving on a bed of marbles while going 60mph
is not pleasant.
A quick check doesnt reveal any obvious loose suspension parts. I havent done
anything to the steering or suspension lately except remove the wheels for
their annual greasing and brake check.
Any clues as to what I should check?
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 17:03:55 -0400
Subject: Re: pilot bush
Ooops!!... I guess I'm showing my ignorance about the gear box... I've never
been inside of one.
Thanks
-skip-
"Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
> >both bushes slide on the layshaft<
> pssst....hey Skip -- that's the input shaft. The layshaft is below, inside
> the gearbox casing. I'm looking forward to hearing your results.
> Doug, 18G
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 17:22:33 -0400
Subject: Re: steering box oil leak
What kind of grease do you use? Regular suspension
> grease like you use in a grease gun....?
Yep, that's what I used until I could replace the seals. That was over 15
years ago and there was no apparent problems using the grease for several
months.
Just stick the gun in
> the oil fill hole and pump away.....?
Yep. I tried to get the box full without overfilling and perhaps pushing
the seal out.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 7:08 AM
Subject: steering box oil leak
>
> My BN4 has developed a steering box oil leak. (early BN4's have the same
> steering box as BN2's) Not enough time for me to rebuild right now and
I've
> got car event commitments for the next several weekends so I'm looking for
a
> short term fix.
>
> I know that some have solved this problem by filling the box with grease.
> Exactly how do you do it? What kind of grease do you use? Regular
suspension
> grease like you use in a grease gun or something else? Just stick the gun
in
> the oil fill hole and pump away or any other method preferred?
>
> Thanks for any suggestions.
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 17:28:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Best Healey ebay add ever...
Sooo... what is the big gauge on the left in the cock pit shot? It seems to be
reading zero while the other is reading OK. Seems something is not working on
the car. :o)
Tim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 17:39:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Best Healey ebay add ever...
Not so. If you read the accompanying text, the seller says that the
speedo is not presently working, as well as a few other things. He/she
seems to have been very up front about this car. I hope it gets a good price.
John Slade
Manotick, ON
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 18:36:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Best Healey ebay add ever...
In a message dated 5/8/01 5:41:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, edalsj@igs.net
writes:
<< Not so. If you read the accompanying text, the seller says that the
speedo is not presently working, as well as a few other things. He/she
seems to have been very up front about this car. I hope it gets a good price
>>
No horn nor speedometer but we are encouraged to "fly in and drive out"!
Hmmmm......
Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 20:01:30 -0400
Subject: New Oil
well, I put 850 miles on my newly rebuild engine and today changed to
Synthetic---Mobile 1. I did it with reservations as I remember someone
saying that Mobile 1 leaked from their car. I had the rear main oil seal
mod, done and all new gaskets, so here's hoping. I'll let you know.
Another little tidbit-----I developed a loud rattle when I hit bumps, and it
worried me to death till I found it. sounded actually like it was coming
from the engine bay. The culprit---the front splash pan had come undone
from one side of the bumper bolt and was banging against the parking light.
I shimmed it and what a difference---no noise and the car is really
tight---after the scuttle shake mod, new shocks bushings---etc. As I
mentioned before, there is still some skake and I'll persue the rear brake
drum balance aome time.
Cheers
tom
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 17:55:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Strange, spooky steering sensation.
Fred -
Check the following:
1. The rear spine hub. Check to see if it is securly
bolted to the axle. I bet you this is what it is
(that's what it sounds like to me). If the bolts come
loose, the rear wheels will float a bit and when
you're at speed & the car gets lighter (due to driving
fast) and the problem becomes more pronounced. very
common problem.
2. Front stearing links. There should be no play in
the links at all. Tug at them firmly to check. Don't
confuse steering links with sway bar links. loose
sway bar links won't cause this problem. If steering
links show any play whatsover, replace 'em.
3. Rear axle hub nut is loose. With the rear wheel
off (do this while checking the rear hubs), tug on the
brake drums and see if they are loose at all. If so,
rear hub is loose. Check bearings and main hub nut.
4. Stearing box. If accompanied with the "floating"
sensation that the steering is all over the place as
well, your steering box may be worn out. From your
description, however, I don't think this is the case,
but is still a possiblity.
My bet is your problem is a rear spline hub is loose
(#1).
Good Luck -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Fred ooman <KingPin@cosmo.com> wrote:
>
> My BJ8 is behaving badly at speed. Ill be cruising
> at about 60 mph and it will float for a moment.
> Its not a hard jolt, like going over an expansion
> joint on a turn, but more like a gust of wind
> pushing the car sideways. It's not like a pull to
> on side either, it's more like a steering
> disconnect. Its quite pronounced, even the
> passenger noticed it. Probably happens about every
> 5 miles or so with no apparent trigger.
>
> This is while going straight on a smooth freeway.
> Its extremely disconcerting. The sensation of
> driving on a bed of marbles while going 60mph is not
> pleasant.
>
> A quick check doesnt reveal any obvious loose
> suspension parts. I havent done anything to the
> steering or suspension lately except remove the
> wheels for their annual greasing and brake check.
>
> Any clues as to what I should check?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 18:05:24 -0700
Subject: Re: steering box oil leak
Moss sells the Penrite (just got some). Ten bucks or so for a half-liter.
Anybody know if this is compatible with 85W-90 gear oil? I know certain
greases/oils
shouldn't be mixed (wheel bearing, MD80 elevator trim jackscrew, etc.)
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 7:21 AM
Subject: Fw: steering box oil leak
>
> I posted a similar question recently and, from the advise, used Penrite
> Steering Lube (I'm not sure if it's available up there). Normal grease
> apparently doesn't
> do the job sufficiently. The Steering Lube is classed as "self-levelling"
> and does not throw out from the critical areas. I have attached a couple of
> scans from the Penrite brochure, or you could try their website
> www.penrite.com.au
>
> I know Penrite is available in Australia and Britain but not sure about
> Stateside. I am sure someone there must also make a similar product. Since
> using the grease I seem to have fixed the leak.
>
> I found the easiest way to get it into the box was to heat it in a pan of
> hot water and pour it into a grease gun with the nipple fitting removed and
> then pump.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rjcbates at mindspring.com
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 21:42:11 -0400
Subject: OD current draw
Does anyone have the typical amp readings for an overdrive solenoid
during the initial lift, and during normal engagement? I believe mine
is going south, as it doesn't engage until the car is warm, and
sometimes not even then.
John Bates
'58 100-6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 22:38:48 EDT
Subject: Re: steering box oil leak summation
Thanks to all who responded. The consensus seems to strongly favor the
Penrite product available from Moss in the US. Gently heat before trying to
pour makes it flow better.
I pumped it full of grease since I have other concerns about the box and a
Friday deadline to get this car finished. Seems to be a good short term
solution and I intend to rebuild the box in a month or so.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 23:14:37 -0400
Subject: pilot bush saga ends..:-)
Well the good news is the feeling is back.
After 3hrs dismantling the engine, 1 hr figuring out the
problem, 24hrs wait for the part to arrive, miscellaneous hours
spent on the net exhibiting my paranoia and curiosity (many many
thanks to all of you who provided me advice/sympathy/ideas), 10
minutes fixing the problem, 4 hrs re-installing the engine, and
15 minutes tuning it up... No clicks?.. Right... No
clicks!!!...The pilot bush journey ends.
Who knows what the next problem is going to be?... I hope it is
minor, because I intend to ship the car overseas f(Europe) by
the end of the month.
She has a rebuilt engine, new clutch, new rear engine plate oil
seal (the aftermarket kind that really seals), new radiator
core, new hoses everywhere (brake front & rear, clutch,
radiator, windscreen washer, oil guage line), rebuilt clutch
master/slave, rebuilt brake booster, rebuilt brake master,
rebuilt brake cylinders (front and rear), rebuilt king-pins,
restored shockmount, new rear hub seals, gas tank pin-hole
repair and tank sloshed, new battery, new fan belt, new wheels,
new tires, all grease fittings checked and greased, new
windscreen wipers (and rain-x on the windscreen), and a "weak
appearing spot" on the frame patched with fresh metal welded
in. (Lots of other rust which needs to be done later...will
get done later...)
The bad news?... None yet, just afraid that something might go
awry... I wonder what I missed?
Spare things to carry on my trip: (must pack light things
only..)
fuel pump repair parts
starter bushes
voltage regulator
fuses
brake booster bypass pipe
heater bypass hose
battery charger (220v to 12v type)
wires with alligator clips
hose clamps
exhaust patch kit and clamps
toggle switch
rotor, condenser, points
Plus a few nuts & bolts
Of course I visited Jim Werner's list.. but he must have a
support van to carry all the things he suggests..:-)...
actually, I'll probably add some more of the small items he
suggests..
Thanks again for all your help...
It is wonderful to have the "feeling" again...:-)...
-Skip-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 21:14:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: pilot bush saga ends..:-)
Skip -
Congratulations! I admire your tenacity, and speed to
getting the job done.... as far as I'm concerned,
fixing problems as they happen (right away) is the
only way to do it.
I'd suggest a couple more spare parts to carry in the
trunk, these are those that I never go without:
1. Spare distributor cap. If this cracks or goes bad,
you gotta get towed, unless you got a spare!
2. Spare coil. Again, if the coil goes bad, you gotta
get towed.
3. Get a spare solid state fuel pump as a backup.
These are cheap and carrying spares for the lucas
pumps don't always fix the problem (first hand
experience here...).
4. Spare top radiator hose. This usually is the one
that goes bad, and if it does, you'll end up filling
up with water every 5 miles & having a wet engine
compartment.
5. Patch kit and/or spare inner tube. Very few
garages carry this stuff anymore. Carrying your own
makes life easier.
Again, congratulations!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- skip <tfsbj7@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
> Well the good news is the feeling is back.
>
> After 3hrs dismantling the engine, 1 hr figuring out
> the
> problem, 24hrs wait for the part to arrive,
> miscellaneous hours
> spent on the net exhibiting my paranoia and
> curiosity (many many
> thanks to all of you who provided me
> advice/sympathy/ideas), 10
> minutes fixing the problem, 4 hrs re-installing the
> engine, and
> 15 minutes tuning it up... No clicks?.. Right... No
> clicks!!!...The pilot bush journey ends.
>
> Who knows what the next problem is going to be?... I
> hope it is
> minor, because I intend to ship the car overseas
> f(Europe) by
> the end of the month.
>
> She has a rebuilt engine, new clutch, new rear
> engine plate oil
> seal (the aftermarket kind that really seals), new
> radiator
> core, new hoses everywhere (brake front & rear,
> clutch,
> radiator, windscreen washer, oil guage line),
> rebuilt clutch
> master/slave, rebuilt brake booster, rebuilt brake
> master,
> rebuilt brake cylinders (front and rear), rebuilt
> king-pins,
> restored shockmount, new rear hub seals, gas tank
> pin-hole
> repair and tank sloshed, new battery, new fan belt,
> new wheels,
> new tires, all grease fittings checked and greased,
> new
> windscreen wipers (and rain-x on the windscreen),
> and a "weak
> appearing spot" on the frame patched with fresh
> metal welded
> in. (Lots of other rust which needs to be done
> later...will
> get done later...)
>
> The bad news?... None yet, just afraid that
> something might go
> awry... I wonder what I missed?
>
> Spare things to carry on my trip: (must pack light
> things
> only..)
> fuel pump repair parts
> starter bushes
> voltage regulator
> fuses
> brake booster bypass pipe
> heater bypass hose
> battery charger (220v to 12v type)
> wires with alligator clips
> hose clamps
> exhaust patch kit and clamps
> toggle switch
> rotor, condenser, points
> Plus a few nuts & bolts
>
> Of course I visited Jim Werner's list.. but he must
> have a
> support van to carry all the things he
> suggests..:-)...
> actually, I'll probably add some more of the small
> items he
> suggests..
>
> Thanks again for all your help...
> It is wonderful to have the "feeling" again...:-)...
> -Skip-
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 00:18:58 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Steering Wheel Wobbles
Return-path: <JSoderling@aol.com>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
Full-name: JSoderling
Message-ID: <36.15af3f84.282a1e77@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 00:15:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Wobbles
To: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10520
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
In a message dated 5/8/2001 7:42:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Jwhlyadv writes:
>
> I never got any responses on this question. One of the guys I work with
> just finished rebuilding his steering box on a BN4 and reports only the
> felt bush supports the shaft. He says you can change just the felt bush
> with the column in the car. I did find the steering box bolt loose and that
> helped a bit.
>
>
Jim,
Thanks. My steering box is now leaking too. I discovered the PO had used
grease in it. The problem was that the grease formed a flim across the
filler plub hole so that when I would check it I would see what looked like
grease/oil at the top and assume that it was full. One day I removed the
plug and poked a wire in it which broke the grease film and discovered it was
down about a cup of fluid. As soon as I started to use gear oil, it started
to leak. I'm not in the mood to fix it now, so will pull out as much of the
gear iol as I can and use grease of Penrite. I have a feeling that grease my
hold better. Do you know of any down side to to using grease? I will
probably not rebuild the box until next winter.
Thanks.
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 00:22:38 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Gearbox Oils/Penrite
Response from Penrite.
Return-Path: <mckaige1@bigpond.com>
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Message-ID: <000e01c0d833$bd6330e0$9d348690@pavilion>
From: "Eric Chester McKaige" <mckaige1@bigpond.com>
To: <KBHabersp@aol.com>
Cc: "Edward Berghino" <edberghino@hotmail.com>, <bscorah@zlobes.com>,
<jsoderling@aol.com>
Subject: Oils
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 12:56:16 +1000
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Kent,
I have received just recently enquiries from the following.
edberghino@hotmail.com
bscorah@zlobos.co
jsoderling@aol.com
All ask the same question? We want Penrite Oil in America.
Can you reply and let them know that we are getting there
Chester
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 14:53:08 +1000
Subject: RE: steering box oil leak
G'day Bob
Just changed the oil steering box from 85W-90 gear oil to Penrite Steering
Lube. I let the steering box drain overnight and installed the Lube the next
afternoon. Having the consistency of treacle or extremly thick honey it was
a pain in the neck to get into the box. I may be wrong but I wouldn't mix
the both.
Since then I have noticed that the steering is slightly heavier but there
are definitely no leaks.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@pacbell.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 11:05 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: steering box oil leak
Moss sells the Penrite (just got some). Ten bucks or so for a half-liter.
Anybody know if this is compatible with 85W-90 gear oil? I know certain
greases/oils
shouldn't be mixed (wheel bearing, MD80 elevator trim jackscrew, etc.)
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 7:21 AM
Subject: Fw: steering box oil leak
>
> I posted a similar question recently and, from the advise, used Penrite
> Steering Lube (I'm not sure if it's available up there). Normal grease
> apparently doesn't
> do the job sufficiently. The Steering Lube is classed as "self-levelling"
> and does not throw out from the critical areas. I have attached a couple
of
> scans from the Penrite brochure, or you could try their website
> www.penrite.com.au
>
> I know Penrite is available in Australia and Britain but not sure about
> Stateside. I am sure someone there must also make a similar product. Since
> using the grease I seem to have fixed the leak.
>
> I found the easiest way to get it into the box was to heat it in a pan of
> hot water and pour it into a grease gun with the nipple fitting removed
and
> then pump.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mauser9 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 01:00:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Best Healey ebay add ever...
No horn nor speedometer but we are encouraged to "fly in and drive out"!
Hmmmm......
Cmon.....who needs a speedo or horn anyway!!!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 00:05:21 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Forwarded: 100-4 steering wheel removal
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: Wesp11@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 01:53:57 EDT
Subject: 100-4 steering wheel removal
I have a 56 BN2 and am having trouble with removing the steering wheel, whats
the trick?, i removed the outer part of the traficator but cant seem to get
any futher, i hope i did not screw up, there are alot of little spring loaded
parts that were once a perfectly working traficator, can this thing be
reassembled?, i did not think it should be so hard, there must be a trick to
it, i am trying to fit a Derrington wheel and am anxious to figure this out,
any help is appreciated thanks!!!!
Hugh
56 BN2
67 BJ8
------- End of forwarded message -------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 23:18:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Forwarded: 100-4 steering wheel removal
Hugh -
Have you loosened the allen screws on the steering
wheel hub that hold the trafficator in? There are
three and they are about an inch and a half back from
the front of the steering wheel boss.
These allen screws hold the trafficator to the wheel,
not the front of the trafficator. If you recall, the
front can't hold the wheel in place because it doesn't
rotate with the wheel. You've dissasembled the
trafficator which is uneccessary. Luckily, it's
relative easy to get back together so no stress!
Once you've loosened the allen screws, the trafficator
will pull right out. Be sure to go to the front of
the car if you need to pull the whole thing out...
yo9u have to disconnect the wires at the front of the
steering column. be sure to attach some string to the
connections at the end before you pull the trafficator
out so that you'll have some string to pull it back
through the stator tube when you're ready to re
assemble every thing.
Good luck,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- List Administration <lists@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> For some reason, this was sent to me rather than
> healeys@autox.team.net.
> Reply to author, not me.
>
> mjb.
> ----
>
> ------- Start of forwarded message -------
> From: Wesp11@aol.com
> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 01:53:57 EDT
> Subject: 100-4 steering wheel removal
>
> I have a 56 BN2 and am having trouble with removing
> the steering wheel, whats
> the trick?, i removed the outer part of the
> traficator but cant seem to get
> any futher, i hope i did not screw up, there are
> alot of little spring loaded
> parts that were once a perfectly working traficator,
> can this thing be
> reassembled?, i did not think it should be so hard,
> there must be a trick to
> it, i am trying to fit a Derrington wheel and am
> anxious to figure this out,
> any help is appreciated thanks!!!!
> Hugh
> 56 BN2
> 67 BJ8
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From lennart.nystedt at allgon.se
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 09:44:21 +0200
Subject: Rear subframe
Listers !
I'm in the process of welding the rear subframe back on the chassis on my
BN1 after 10+ years separation. The P.O. removed the subframe so I have no
measurements regarding the "lengthwise" position. The subframe hasn't yet
any doorpost so I cant use the doors as alignment tools.
1. Is there any good reference points for positioning I can use ? rear
crossmember ? the mounting bracket for the panhard rod ?
2. Should there be cutouts in subframe for the ridges on the chassis or is
it just resting on the top of the ridges ?
3. Where is the subframe welded to the chassis ?
Hdlsningar/Regards
Lennart Nystedt
Sweden
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TimWardUK at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 04:04:31 EDT
Subject: Wheel Balancing
On the recurring theme of balancing Wheels does anyone know of a good Wheel
Shop that can do this within a reasonable distance of Northampton in the UK.
All the places here do not have the necessary kit to balance wire wheels and
can only do an approximate job, as a result I am shaking at the 55/60 range.
Thanks
Tim
Tim Ward
Warwick House
12 Mill Road
Kislingbury
Northants., NN7 4BB
Tel/Fax: 44.1604.832.901
E-Mail: TimWardUk@aol.com
Mobile: 44.7855.388.751
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 08:06:45 -0400
Subject: Re: OD current draw
Hi John,
The later overdrive solenoid (AEJ42) draws about 20 - 25 amps with the points
closed (initial lift) and 1.5 - 2 amps with the points open (normal engagement).
The heavy current seems to be sufficient to cook the solenoid in less than 5
minutes on a warm day.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
rjcbates@mindspring.com wrote:
> Does anyone have the typical amp readings for an overdrive solenoid
> during the initial lift, and during normal engagement? I believe mine
> is going south, as it doesn't engage until the car is warm, and
> sometimes not even then.
>
> John Bates
> '58 100-6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "terry s." <tvett68 at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 12:45:20
Subject: Re: Fw: steering box oil leak
Greg, this will bring a few howls, but it works- STP. It has a very high psi
capability along with tremendous clinging ability-try getting it out of an
engine or off your hands. Warm it up in very hot water and with an
appropiate funnel you can get it in with some patience.
When it cools it won't leak and does cling to the gears which any grease
will not do.
Terry
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 09:53:33 EDT
Subject: Re: OD current draw
In a message dated 5/9/01 8:03:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time, magicare@home.com
writes:
<< The later overdrive solenoid (AEJ42) draws about 20 - 25 amps with the
points
closed (initial lift) and 1.5 - 2 amps with the points open (normal
engagement).
The heavy current seems to be sufficient to cook the solenoid in less than 5
minutes on a warm day. >>
I just finished a bout with the solenoid on my car. The one that was onboard
and working perfectly when I last drove the car in the fall suddenly went
south this spring: I have an ammeter mounted on my dash and when I threw the
OD switch to "on" the needle pegged to ground, indicating to me an internal
short somewhere in the solenoid. The FIRST new replacement (marked "tested
ok" by the supplying dealer) worked but was not strong enough to pull the
actuating piston home and move the OD actuating arm all of the way to release
the ball from its seat and allow the OD to engage, although it would hold it
in OD if I manually pushed the lever all the way into place. Not wanting to
be driving around all the time without a transmission tunnel, I opted to get
a second replacement and it snaps that piston home and allows the OD to
engage properly.
BTW, I cannot see any reading whatsoever on the ammeter when I throw the OD
switch into engage. Perhaps the solenoid's field is made and then broken so
fast that I cannot see it register?
Best to all--Michael Oritt
BN1L222333
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 15:27:28 EDT
Subject: Mike Salter & R&T
Hasn't anyone noticed our own Mike Salter got a mention in Peter Egan's story
in this month's Road & Track about Mini Coopering through a Texas Rally?
Seems the Mini that Mike traded with Bill Lillibredge for two MGC's got
pressed into duty when Bill's 100S wasn't ready. (Frankly Mike, I think you
got the short end of the deal unless you're in desperate need of some boat
anchors ;-) )
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 15:32:54 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Massachusetts classic car insurance
In a message dated 5/7/01 9:16:52 PM, ktnkt@cape.com writes:
<< Sorry to bomb the list, but:
To all Massachusetts classic and antique car owners;
Once again, when we try to save a buck there's always someone with
their hand out to take it back !! You folks out in western Mass., who is
this Andy Nuciforo, and how influen$ed do you suppose he is by the Mass.
insurance lobby ?? It's obvious that the Mass. insurance companies don't
want any competition, especially one that actually saves the consumer
money. All citizens in this state are urged to respond to the notice
below as soon as possible !! Also, if you're involved in any other car
clubs or lists please send it along.
Regards,
Kevin D. Thompson
President
Cape Cod British Car Club
Mass. State legislator Andy Nuciforo from Pittsfield introduced Senate
Bill #771 on January 3 and a hearing was held on March 26. This bill
would rescind discounted Antique Auto Insurance offered by Grundy,
Taylor and others. Don't like it? The Joint Committee on Insurance
needs to hear from you. Tell them to vote NO on this bill and give
reasons. For questions, call them at 617-722-2220. Please write ASAP
to:
Chairman Ron Mariano
Room 254
Joint Committee on Insurance
State House
Boston, MA 02133
on the envelope note: ATTN: MAURA GREANEY
or email: Rep.RonaldMariano@hou.state.ma.us
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Message-ID: <3AF74954.49DD7306@cape.com>
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 21:18:12 -0400
From: KTnKT <ktnkt@cape.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.74 [en]C-easynet-02 (Win98; U)
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To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>, Brits <british-cars@autox.team.net>,
spitlist <spitfires@autox.team.net>, TR <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Massachusetts classic car insurance
Sender: owner-british-cars@autox.team.net
Reply-To: KTnKT <ktnkt@cape.com>
Sorry to bomb the list, but:
To all Massachusetts classic and antique car owners;
Once again, when we try to save a buck there's always someone with
their hand out to take it back !! You folks out in western Mass., who is
this Andy Nuciforo, and how influen$ed do you suppose he is by the Mass.
insurance lobby ?? It's obvious that the Mass. insurance companies don't
want any competition, especially one that actually saves the consumer
money. All citizens in this state are urged to respond to the notice
below as soon as possible !! Also, if you're involved in any other car
clubs or lists please send it along.
Regards,
Kevin D. Thompson
President
Cape Cod British Car Club
Mass. State legislator Andy Nuciforo from Pittsfield introduced Senate
Bill #771 on January 3 and a hearing was held on March 26. This bill
would rescind discounted Antique Auto Insurance offered by Grundy,
Taylor and others. Don't like it? The Joint Committee on Insurance
needs to hear from you. Tell them to vote NO on this bill and give
reasons. For questions, call them at 617-722-2220. Please write ASAP
to:
Chairman Ron Mariano
Room 254
Joint Committee on Insurance
State House
Boston, MA 02133
on the envelope note: ATTN: MAURA GREANEY
or email: Rep.RonaldMariano@hou.state.ma.us
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TMHEFFRON at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 16:33:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Mike Salter & R&T
"Hasn't anyone noticed our own Mike Salter got a mention in Peter Egan's
story
in this month's Road & Track about Mini Coopering through a Texas Rally? "
Yes, I noticed that. To be mentioned Road and Track is a great honor. To be
mentioned in R & T in a Peter Egan feature is even better.
Terry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 16:57:09 EDT
Subject: Re: OD current draw
I believe the solenoid draws 2 amps when engaged and 20 or more amps to
engage. It can take awhile while cold but if it is not engaging at all
sometimes, it is not adjusted properly.
Ned Paulsen
1960 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 15:16:12 -0700
Subject: RE: OD current draw
So if we want to be clever and insert a fuse, what do we pick for the
rating? Will a 5 amp fuse take a brief 25 amps?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 15:52:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Strange, spooky steering sensation
Thanks for the laundry list of possible causes for that floating feeling.
Today I went out to start down the list, but remembered that my lift is in my
wifes car. Since I was out anyway I went around the car and gave each of the
wheels a good shake. Both rears have a small amount of play, and the right
front wheel also has a noticeable amount of wiggle.
Hopefully tomorrow Ill have some time to remove the wheels and see if shaking
the drums and disc have the same effect. I cant imagine 3 wheels not seating
firmly when I replaced them, but I suppose it could happen.
The splines and wheels were all in good condition with no signs of any wear.
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 21:06:42 -0400
Subject: It came back!!!!
I hate admitting I was wrong... I sounded so "clever" at
resolving the issue earlier.... But in the interest of safety
and alertness for others... here is my story...
No noise for a few miles... I drove the car to work this
morning, and just before I arrived at my office parking lot the
click came back...
bummer
So, at noon I drove it over to my machinist friend. He has
worked on race engines, rare engines, classic engines etc. for
about 58 years... so he's seen it all. He just loved my
engine... he thought it looked and sounded wonderful (except for
the click) which he could hear too...again, just an intermittent
click and not always easy to make happen...
We did a quick rocker valve clearance check. Most were pretty
close, but there were a couple of them that were off (.014 vice
.012 and one which was .010) He cautioned me about the .010
one...worried about burning a valve if I got the adjustment too
much under specification. We went for a short drive, and he
noted that the sound was there at low and high revs, ... but
perhaps a bit more at high revs. It stayed in pace with the
engine RPM... but it would not go continuously... sometimes even
when it was sounding, it would skip a beat or two...
We took out the dipstick...that wasn't the problem either.
Then I drove the car home and started thinking about how tappets
work... they rotate... I began wondering if maybe one of the
tappets was sticking during part of its rotation, and the loud
click was the extra force the cam or the valve return spring
needed to pop the tappet free during one segment of its
rotation...The idea seemed sufficiently plausible that I placed
an order for two tappets and two rods just in case I was
right...and if wrong, well the tappets could be used on another
engine...
I let the engine cool all afternoon, and tonight I opened the
rear two tappet covers... and lifted the rocker arm. Then I
carefully removed and bagged each rod and tappet starting from
the rear (because that is where the sound was coming from)...
12, 11, 10, all came out easily. So did 8, 7, and 6. But 9
didn't want to come out of its chase. I could lift it part
way, and I could twist it... It would reseat against the cam
with a click (hmmmm)... but it wouldn't come out the chase.
So in go the needle nose pliers... nope, it won't lift clear.
So, in go the needle nose vise grips (to grab hold of the
tapered part at the top of the tappet.... i.e. the outside of
the socket area for the rod)... this time I can lift it in the
chase, but it is quite tight. I have to use a screwdriver in
the oil breather holes that are in the tappet to get it to lift
the last bit. Out she comes!@!@... And the bottom outside
edges of the tappet looks like it went to a drunken sailor's
party... the center of the tappet was ok.... and examining the
cam lobe reveals no damage to the cam (thank goodness... and
thank my luck for going after the click even though I thought I
had it fixed earlier...)
The tappet was brand spanking new (fresh from Dennis Welch
racing) when I inserted it along with all the other tappets..
(all the others, by the way, look wonderful... the shine is just
starting to appear...that's how new they all are)...I used cam
lube on the bottoms and sides of the tappets, and on the cam
lobes, I used liberal amounts of oil on all the other areas
around the tappets, and I'm sure I torqued everything properly
before starting the engine for the first time. I can't remember
when the sound first appeared, but it was within the first 120
to 180 seconds. So I'm guessing the tappet was defective.
I'll send a message to Dennis Welch and see what their reaction
is... but I'm guessing it was just one of those things where the
hardness wasn't right on the tappet. Its bottom edges are both
dented and chipped with the hardened part completely broken
away.
(Funny, I did notice a couple of pieces of metal in the oil pan
when I popped the pan off on Monday, but I rationalized them
away as debris that I missed under one of the lips in the oil
pan baffles.... I shouldn't have rationalized those chips
away... (even though they were very small), because I'd really
done a pretty thorough clean and wash of the oil pan when I did
the rebuild. (I should have had more confidence in the quality
of my cleanliness, and let the alarm flags fly when I saw those
chips...))
Anyway, new tappets from Moss are on there way. (I bought two
on speculation that this was the real problem at noon time
today, even though I'd not yet opened the cover... I wanted to
be sure I'd have any parts I needed so the engine can be tested
tomorrow.).... So, while the pilot bush did indeed need
replacement, it might not have been the major contributor to the
clicking sound....The good news is that I think the cam is ok
and replacing the tappets doesn't require pulling the engine...
wheww!!!...(I just hope there's no more bad news...)
later
-Skip-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 23:52:16 -0400
Subject: picture of dead tappet
If anyone is interested, I have a digital photo showing the
difference between one of the healthy tappets and the dead
one...I don't have a web site, but I'll respond with the jpeg
via direct email...
-Skip-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 22:56:07 -0700
Subject: CA Healey Week - Last chance to register
Don't miss out on this event:
The Austin Healey Association, which is centered in the greater Los
Angeles area, is
hosting it's annual California Healey Week, starting Thursday, May 31,
2001 to and including
Sunday, June 3, 2001. This year the event will be held at the Rio Bravo
Resort, located just East of Bakersfield, CA.
Healeys from hundreds of miles around will gather for this event.
Events include:
a British Pub Night,
a drive up the Kern River Canyon to Kernville for lunch,
a dinner at a Basque Restaurant,
a "Popular Choice" show at the lodge,
remote car racing,
a panoramic drive through the Bakersfield area,
"Healey Feeley," (got to be there for that one!)
an awards banquet Saturday night,
a raffle brunch
and many other fun activities.
For more information or for a registration form please contact:
Ralph Comito, rcomito@uia.net or at 909.985.6481.
There's also a printable registration form at the Austin Healey Club of
San Diego's web site -
http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover/sdhealey/chw_registration.pdf
After filling out the form and mailing it as instructed, please send an
e-mail to Ken
and Joan Carr informing then that it is on its way: jcarr@lbcc.cc.ca.us
Thanks
Austin Healey Association
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 00:59:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: It came back!!!!
I just wanted to thank skip for his detailed posts
regarding the dreaded "click." If I ever encounter
something similar when I rebuild my motor, I know the
things to look for!
Good luck skip!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- skip <tfsbj7@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
> I hate admitting I was wrong... I sounded so
> "clever" at
> resolving the issue earlier.... But in the interest
> of safety
> and alertness for others... here is my story...
>
> No noise for a few miles... I drove the car to work
> this
> morning, and just before I arrived at my office
> parking lot the
> click came back...
>
> bummer
>
> So, at noon I drove it over to my machinist friend.
> He has
> worked on race engines, rare engines, classic
> engines etc. for
> about 58 years... so he's seen it all. He just
> loved my
> engine... he thought it looked and sounded wonderful
> (except for
> the click) which he could hear too...again, just an
> intermittent
> click and not always easy to make happen...
>
> We did a quick rocker valve clearance check. Most
> were pretty
> close, but there were a couple of them that were off
> (.014 vice
> .012 and one which was .010) He cautioned me about
> the .010
> one...worried about burning a valve if I got the
> adjustment too
> much under specification. We went for a short
> drive, and he
> noted that the sound was there at low and high revs,
> ... but
> perhaps a bit more at high revs. It stayed in pace
> with the
> engine RPM... but it would not go continuously...
> sometimes even
> when it was sounding, it would skip a beat or two...
>
> We took out the dipstick...that wasn't the problem
> either.
>
> Then I drove the car home and started thinking about
> how tappets
> work... they rotate... I began wondering if maybe
> one of the
> tappets was sticking during part of its rotation,
> and the loud
> click was the extra force the cam or the valve
> return spring
> needed to pop the tappet free during one segment of
> its
> rotation...The idea seemed sufficiently plausible
> that I placed
> an order for two tappets and two rods just in case I
> was
> right...and if wrong, well the tappets could be used
> on another
> engine...
>
> I let the engine cool all afternoon, and tonight I
> opened the
> rear two tappet covers... and lifted the rocker arm.
> Then I
> carefully removed and bagged each rod and tappet
> starting from
> the rear (because that is where the sound was coming
> from)...
> 12, 11, 10, all came out easily. So did 8, 7, and
> 6. But 9
> didn't want to come out of its chase. I could lift
> it part
> way, and I could twist it... It would reseat against
> the cam
> with a click (hmmmm)... but it wouldn't come out
> the chase.
> So in go the needle nose pliers... nope, it won't
> lift clear.
> So, in go the needle nose vise grips (to grab hold
> of the
> tapered part at the top of the tappet.... i.e. the
> outside of
> the socket area for the rod)... this time I can lift
> it in the
> chase, but it is quite tight. I have to use a
> screwdriver in
> the oil breather holes that are in the tappet to get
> it to lift
> the last bit. Out she comes!@!@... And the bottom
> outside
> edges of the tappet looks like it went to a drunken
> sailor's
> party... the center of the tappet was ok.... and
> examining the
> cam lobe reveals no damage to the cam (thank
> goodness... and
> thank my luck for going after the click even though
> I thought I
> had it fixed earlier...)
>
> The tappet was brand spanking new (fresh from Dennis
> Welch
> racing) when I inserted it along with all the other
> tappets..
> (all the others, by the way, look wonderful... the
> shine is just
> starting to appear...that's how new they all
> are)...I used cam
> lube on the bottoms and sides of the tappets, and on
> the cam
> lobes, I used liberal amounts of oil on all the
> other areas
> around the tappets, and I'm sure I torqued
> everything properly
> before starting the engine for the first time. I
> can't remember
> when the sound first appeared, but it was within the
> first 120
> to 180 seconds. So I'm guessing the tappet was
> defective.
> I'll send a message to Dennis Welch and see what
> their reaction
> is... but I'm guessing it was just one of those
> things where the
> hardness wasn't right on the tappet. Its bottom
> edges are both
> dented and chipped with the hardened part completely
> broken
> away.
>
> (Funny, I did notice a couple of pieces of metal in
> the oil pan
> when I popped the pan off on Monday, but I
> rationalized them
> away as debris that I missed under one of the lips
> in the oil
> pan baffles.... I shouldn't have rationalized those
> chips
> away... (even though they were very small), because
> I'd really
> done a pretty thorough clean and wash of the oil pan
> when I did
> the rebuild. (I should have had more confidence in
> the quality
> of my cleanliness, and let the alarm flags fly when
> I saw those
> chips...))
>
> Anyway, new tappets from Moss are on there way. (I
> bought two
> on speculation that this was the real problem at
> noon time
> today, even though I'd not yet opened the cover... I
> wanted to
> be sure I'd have any parts I needed so the engine
> can be tested
> tomorrow.).... So, while the pilot bush did indeed
> need
> replacement, it might not have been the major
> contributor to the
> clicking sound....The good news is that I think the
> cam is ok
> and replacing the tappets doesn't require pulling
> the engine...
> wheww!!!...(I just hope there's no more bad news...)
>
> later
> -Skip-
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 08:19:15 EDT
Subject: Healey Posters...
Hi Everyone.
While cruzin' the net a few days ago I happened on a site doing a Healey
search (about 12 pages deep in the search) that has a ton of posters taken
from old Healey brochures, Advertisements, etc. If you interested, go to :
http://www.vintagead.com/
Once there click on the European button. Scroll down to the search input and
put a check mark by the make and select Austin-Healey in the drop down and
click search. You will find 4 pages of posters. An I think at very
reasonable prices.
No financial involvement, just passing on information.
Richard
BN1 slowly making progress...
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 08:57:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Mike Salter & R&T
In a message dated 5/10/01 8:42:29 AM, malcolm@procurcorp.com writes:
<<Rick,
I am deeply offended.
Mal
[boat anchor] MGC, BJ7>>
Probably not as offended as most Healey fans were when we found out BL was
trying to foist the MGC on us as a replacement for the big Healey. I recall
the derision the MGC was met with in the motoring press ... that it was slow
and brought new meaning to the term "understeer". Nevertheless, I think
those triple-webered, MGC-GTs entered by the factory at Sebring were
impressive.
Rick
AN5, BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 20:22:42 -0400
Subject: Re: pilot bush saga ends..:-)
Sounds to me like it's time for an accident!!!!! :)
Name witheld to protect from flames
> Who knows what the next problem is going to be?... I hope it is
> minor, because I intend to ship the car overseas f(Europe) by
> the end of the month.
>
> She has a rebuilt engine, new clutch, new rear engine plate oil
> seal (the aftermarket kind that really seals), new radiator
> core, new hoses everywhere (brake front & rear, clutch,
> radiator, windscreen washer, oil guage line), rebuilt clutch
> master/slave, rebuilt brake booster, rebuilt brake master,
> rebuilt brake cylinders (front and rear), rebuilt king-pins,
> restored shockmount, new rear hub seals, gas tank pin-hole
> repair and tank sloshed, new battery, new fan belt, new wheels,
> new tires, all grease fittings checked and greased, new
> windscreen wipers (and rain-x on the windscreen), and a "weak
> appearing spot" on the frame patched with fresh metal welded
> in. (Lots of other rust which needs to be done later...will
> get done later...)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 09:21:26 -0400
Subject: Re: pilot bush saga ends..:-)
Ha!....LOL... I presume you are doing a lot of "knocking on
wood"...:-)
Good observation though.. just when things are starting to look like
they're done, something
bad happens... (before working with any power tool, I have a
ritual. I look at my fingers and
say to myself, this might be the last time they are all attached to
the hands... "be careful"..) (so far, it has held me in good stead,
I'm cautious around my power tools, and I still have all the
fingers..)
I'll take your email as a reminder to not get too cocky...
Thanks
-Skip-
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Sounds to me like it's time for an accident!!!!! :)
>
> Name witheld to protect from flames
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 09:26:51 -0400
Subject: Re: It came back!!!!
> I'll send a message to Dennis Welch and see what their reaction
> is...
The one and only time I tried to let DWR know that a part of theirs was
not perfect I was met with rude denial, and told that the fault was mine,
not the part's. This from a git that was still in training pants when I
first
started working on Healeys.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "skip" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 9:06 PM
Subject: It came back!!!!
>
> I hate admitting I was wrong... I sounded so "clever" at
> resolving the issue earlier.... But in the interest of safety
> and alertness for others... here is my story...
>
> No noise for a few miles... I drove the car to work this
> morning, and just before I arrived at my office parking lot the
> click came back...
>
> bummer
>
> So, at noon I drove it over to my machinist friend. He has
> worked on race engines, rare engines, classic engines etc. for
> about 58 years... so he's seen it all. He just loved my
> engine... he thought it looked and sounded wonderful (except for
> the click) which he could hear too...again, just an intermittent
> click and not always easy to make happen...
>
> We did a quick rocker valve clearance check. Most were pretty
> close, but there were a couple of them that were off (.014 vice
> .012 and one which was .010) He cautioned me about the .010
> one...worried about burning a valve if I got the adjustment too
> much under specification. We went for a short drive, and he
> noted that the sound was there at low and high revs, ... but
> perhaps a bit more at high revs. It stayed in pace with the
> engine RPM... but it would not go continuously... sometimes even
> when it was sounding, it would skip a beat or two...
>
> We took out the dipstick...that wasn't the problem either.
>
> Then I drove the car home and started thinking about how tappets
> work... they rotate... I began wondering if maybe one of the
> tappets was sticking during part of its rotation, and the loud
> click was the extra force the cam or the valve return spring
> needed to pop the tappet free during one segment of its
> rotation...The idea seemed sufficiently plausible that I placed
> an order for two tappets and two rods just in case I was
> right...and if wrong, well the tappets could be used on another
> engine...
>
> I let the engine cool all afternoon, and tonight I opened the
> rear two tappet covers... and lifted the rocker arm. Then I
> carefully removed and bagged each rod and tappet starting from
> the rear (because that is where the sound was coming from)...
> 12, 11, 10, all came out easily. So did 8, 7, and 6. But 9
> didn't want to come out of its chase. I could lift it part
> way, and I could twist it... It would reseat against the cam
> with a click (hmmmm)... but it wouldn't come out the chase.
> So in go the needle nose pliers... nope, it won't lift clear.
> So, in go the needle nose vise grips (to grab hold of the
> tapered part at the top of the tappet.... i.e. the outside of
> the socket area for the rod)... this time I can lift it in the
> chase, but it is quite tight. I have to use a screwdriver in
> the oil breather holes that are in the tappet to get it to lift
> the last bit. Out she comes!@!@... And the bottom outside
> edges of the tappet looks like it went to a drunken sailor's
> party... the center of the tappet was ok.... and examining the
> cam lobe reveals no damage to the cam (thank goodness... and
> thank my luck for going after the click even though I thought I
> had it fixed earlier...)
>
> The tappet was brand spanking new (fresh from Dennis Welch
> racing) when I inserted it along with all the other tappets..
> (all the others, by the way, look wonderful... the shine is just
> starting to appear...that's how new they all are)...I used cam
> lube on the bottoms and sides of the tappets, and on the cam
> lobes, I used liberal amounts of oil on all the other areas
> around the tappets, and I'm sure I torqued everything properly
> before starting the engine for the first time. I can't remember
> when the sound first appeared, but it was within the first 120
> to 180 seconds. So I'm guessing the tappet was defective.
> I'll send a message to Dennis Welch and see what their reaction
> is... but I'm guessing it was just one of those things where the
> hardness wasn't right on the tappet. Its bottom edges are both
> dented and chipped with the hardened part completely broken
> away.
>
> (Funny, I did notice a couple of pieces of metal in the oil pan
> when I popped the pan off on Monday, but I rationalized them
> away as debris that I missed under one of the lips in the oil
> pan baffles.... I shouldn't have rationalized those chips
> away... (even though they were very small), because I'd really
> done a pretty thorough clean and wash of the oil pan when I did
> the rebuild. (I should have had more confidence in the quality
> of my cleanliness, and let the alarm flags fly when I saw those
> chips...))
>
> Anyway, new tappets from Moss are on there way. (I bought two
> on speculation that this was the real problem at noon time
> today, even though I'd not yet opened the cover... I wanted to
> be sure I'd have any parts I needed so the engine can be tested
> tomorrow.).... So, while the pilot bush did indeed need
> replacement, it might not have been the major contributor to the
> clicking sound....The good news is that I think the cam is ok
> and replacing the tappets doesn't require pulling the engine...
> wheww!!!...(I just hope there's no more bad news...)
>
> later
> -Skip-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 10:45:29 -0400
Subject: Battery height
Does anyone out there know the maximum permitable dimentions for the 6
volt batteries that will fit in a 100.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 07:49:36 -0700
Subject: bad lifters
I can remember Russ Thompson at AH Enterprises take a bunch of lifters from
a freshly rebuilt engine in a customers car and fling them across the shop.
This was in the 70's. The problem of poor heat treating of lifters has been
around a long time. Back then, originals had to be ground and reheat
treated. New ones were not available. The process is sometimes called
Parkerizing (because extra carbon is introduced to that surface somehow?).
The wear surface has to be extra hard compared to the rest of the lifter.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 14:15:58 EDT
Subject: Bumper question
Hi Listers,
I just bought a kit from the UK to install Sprite style bumpers to the rear
of my BN6 like the works team used, but the brackets are too short for my car.
Could someone (or a few of you) be so kind as to measure the distance on your
car the distance from the rear most bumper mounting bolt to the shroud? That
would be most helpful.
TIA,
Rick
San Diego
Front lamp mounts from the same source are very nice and look great holding
the driving lamps. Pictures when my site is updated-soon....really
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 13:01:00 -0600
Subject: Fw: Security information; RE Virus--NO LBC
FYI
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
: Thursday, May 10, 2001 12:36 PM
Subject: FW: Security information
>
>
> >
> This article is for your information. >
> http://www.newsroom.co.nz/story/45648-99999.html
> <http://www.newsroom.co.nz/story/45648-99999.html>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 15:44:21 -0400
Subject: Original Battery dimensions 100-4
Mike,
The original batteries in the 100-4 were seven and one-half inches from the
bottom to the
top of the terminal. Second "problem" you should check, especially for the
late cars with
the "better" rear end, is the dimension over-all which is seven inches by
seven and one-
half inches, because the rear end will tend to collide with the one battery
if it is too large.
The metal base boxes on the early cars were both the same, whereas the BN2
cars and
a few BN1 cars with the hypoid rear ends, had two different metal boxes to
clear that
five-bolt rear-end
Good luck
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 15:22:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Fwd: Massachusetts classic car insurance
What were the arguments AGAINST Taylor et al and did it name the classic car
insurers by name? If we knew what the Con arguments were we could frame some
meaningful Pro arguments.
DickB
(my "friends" and customers please note my new email address -
dickb01@earthlink.net )
HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 5/7/01 9:16:52 PM, ktnkt@cape.com writes:
>
> << Sorry to bomb the list, but:
> To all Massachusetts classic and antique car owners;
> Once again, when we try to save a buck there's always someone with
> their hand out to take it back !! You folks out in western Mass., who is
> this Andy Nuciforo, and how influen$ed do you suppose he is by the Mass.
> insurance lobby ?? It's obvious that the Mass. insurance companies don't
> want any competition, especially one that actually saves the consumer
> money. All citizens in this state are urged to respond to the notice
> below as soon as possible !! Also, if you're involved in any other car
> clubs or lists please send it along.
> Regards,
> Kevin D. Thompson
> President
> Cape Cod British Car Club
>
> Mass. State legislator Andy Nuciforo from Pittsfield introduced Senate
> Bill #771 on January 3 and a hearing was held on March 26. This bill
> would rescind discounted Antique Auto Insurance offered by Grundy,
> Taylor and others. Don't like it? The Joint Committee on Insurance
> needs to hear from you. Tell them to vote NO on this bill and give
> reasons. For questions, call them at 617-722-2220. Please write ASAP
> to:
> Chairman Ron Mariano
> Room 254
> Joint Committee on Insurance
> State House
> Boston, MA 02133
> on the envelope note: ATTN: MAURA GREANEY
>
> or email: Rep.RonaldMariano@hou.state.ma.us
> Return-Path: <british-cars-owner@autox.team.net>
> Received: from rly-zd04.mx.aol.com (rly-zd04.mail.aol.com
> [172.31.33.228]) by air-zd03.mail.aol.com (v77_r1.36) with ESMTP; Mon,
> 07 May 2001 21:16:52 -0400
> Received: from teamfat2.dsl.aros.net (teamfat2.dsl.aros.net
> [207.173.21.42]) by rly-zd04.mx.aol.com (v78.27) with ESMTP; Mon, 07
> May 2001 21:16:25 -0400
> Received: from localhost (daemon@localhost) by teamfat2.dsl.aros.net
> (8.11.0/8.11.0) with SMTP id f481ErE29736; Mon, 7 May 2001 19:14:54
> -0600 (MDT)
> Received: by teamfat2.dsl.aros.net (bulk_mailer v1.12); Mon, 7 May 2001
> 19:14:32 -0600
> Received: (from majordom@localhost) by teamfat2.dsl.aros.net
> (8.11.0/8.11.0) id f481BQx29547 for british-cars-actors; Mon, 7 May
> 2001 19:11:26 -0600 (MDT)
> Message-ID: <3AF74954.49DD7306@cape.com>
> Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 21:18:12 -0400
> From: KTnKT <ktnkt@cape.com>
> X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.74 [en]C-easynet-02 (Win98; U)
> X-Accept-Language: en
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>, Brits <british-cars@autox.team.net>,
> spitlist <spitfires@autox.team.net>, TR <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
> mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Massachusetts classic car insurance
> Sender: owner-british-cars@autox.team.net
> Reply-To: KTnKT <ktnkt@cape.com>
>
> Sorry to bomb the list, but:
> To all Massachusetts classic and antique car owners;
> Once again, when we try to save a buck there's always someone with
> their hand out to take it back !! You folks out in western Mass., who is
> this Andy Nuciforo, and how influen$ed do you suppose he is by the Mass.
> insurance lobby ?? It's obvious that the Mass. insurance companies don't
> want any competition, especially one that actually saves the consumer
> money. All citizens in this state are urged to respond to the notice
> below as soon as possible !! Also, if you're involved in any other car
> clubs or lists please send it along.
> Regards,
> Kevin D. Thompson
> President
> Cape Cod British Car Club
>
> Mass. State legislator Andy Nuciforo from Pittsfield introduced Senate
> Bill #771 on January 3 and a hearing was held on March 26. This bill
> would rescind discounted Antique Auto Insurance offered by Grundy,
> Taylor and others. Don't like it? The Joint Committee on Insurance
> needs to hear from you. Tell them to vote NO on this bill and give
> reasons. For questions, call them at 617-722-2220. Please write ASAP
> to:
> Chairman Ron Mariano
> Room 254
> Joint Committee on Insurance
> State House
> Boston, MA 02133
> on the envelope note: ATTN: MAURA GREANEY
>
> or email: Rep.RonaldMariano@hou.state.ma.us
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 17:13:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Bumper question
Rick,
The best measure I can get on the BJ8 is 4 and 3/8, plus or minus. Keep in
mind you cannot get a consistent measure because of the contour of the
shroud, the angle of the bumper bracket, and the fact that the mounting
holes for the brackets are slotted and thus have about 3/4 inch of leeway.
My measure was taken parallel and an inch off the arm of the bracket and
from the shroud to the closest point of the bracket.
The bumper brackets should be positioned fore and aft to provide just enough
clearance that the trunk lid clears the overriders when opening the trunk.
Hope this helps.
Keith Pennell
> Hi Listers,
>
> I just bought a kit from the UK to install Sprite style bumpers to the
rear
> of my BN6 like the works team used, but the brackets are too short for my
car.
>
> Could someone (or a few of you) be so kind as to measure the distance on
your
> car the distance from the rear most bumper mounting bolt to the shroud?
That
> would be most helpful.
>
>
> TIA,
> Rick
> San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 15:37:48 -0700
Subject: BN1 transmission front cover question
I am trying to rebuild the 3 speed transmission on my BN1. The
transmission that came with the car and the one I have as an alternate
both have "ovaled" front covers. This cover piece fits over the first
motion shaft and has a spiral groove in it to encourage transmission
oil that makes its way forward to return to the transmission sump. I
am concerned that with parts of this spiral reduced in depth and with
a larger gap around the shaft I would get unacceptable leakage from
the transmission into the bell housing.
I see two solutions: find an unworn front cover somehow, somewhere,
or find a way to put an honest to goodness oil seal in the front
cover. If someone can point me to a good front cover I would be very
grateful. If someone has come up with a way to put a seal in the
cover I would be very grateful to hear about that, too.
The front cover does not have much 'meat' in it. Made of cast
aluminum, the only way I can imagine fitting a seal would be first
with a TIG welder to build up around the shaft opening on the inside
of the cover, thus creating a flange large enough to permit enlarging
the opening to fit some appropriate oil seal.
Can anyone help me with this? I think I can find the rest of the
parts I would need for a rebuild.
Thanks,
-Roland
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 19:30:23 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 transmission front cover question
We have installed a seal in the front cover of several 3 speed transmissions.
if you send me your cover we can modify your cover to accept a seal.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bryan Connington" <bryanc at micron.net>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 17:56:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Strange, spooky steering sensation
My first posting if it appears strange appologies.
I have a 1960 BT7 and have just finished rebuilding the back end and had
exactly the symptoms described below. The car felt great after about 30 miles
some at speed the handling became very strange. Initial inspection seemed fine
until the car was jacked up and the weight came of the wheels and found one of
the rear wheels had some travel. The culprit being exactely;
1. The rear spine hub. Check to see if it is securly
bolted to the axle. I bet you this is what it is
(that's what it sounds like to me). If the bolts come
loose, the rear wheels will float a bit and when
you're at speed & the car gets lighter (due to driving
fast) and the problem becomes more pronounced. very
common problem.
The new 5 studs that I replaced actually threaded where the nuts loosened and
they were done up tight only hours before.. If this is a common problem
suggestions before I make the same mistake again, or have another interesting
and maybe expensive driving experience.
Thanks in advance
Bryan
Boise, ID
1960 BT7
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 17:55:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: International Investor <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Strange, spooky steering sensation.
Fred -
Check the following:
1. The rear spine hub. Check to see if it is securly
bolted to the axle. I bet you this is what it is
(that's what it sounds like to me). If the bolts come
loose, the rear wheels will float a bit and when
you're at speed & the car gets lighter (due to driving
fast) and the problem becomes more pronounced. very
common problem.
2. Front stearing links. There should be no play in
the links at all. Tug at them firmly to check. Don't
confuse steering links with sway bar links. loose
sway bar links won't cause this problem. If steering
links show any play whatsover, replace 'em.
3. Rear axle hub nut is loose. With the rear wheel
off (do this while checking the rear hubs), tug on the
brake drums and see if they are loose at all. If so,
rear hub is loose. Check bearings and main hub nut.
4. Stearing box. If accompanied with the "floating"
sensation that the steering is all over the place as
well, your steering box may be worn out. From your
description, however, I don't think this is the case,
but is still a possiblity.
My bet is your problem is a rear spline hub is loose
(#1).
Good Luck -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
- --- Fred ooman <KingPin@cosmo.com> wrote:
>
> My BJ8 is behaving badly at speed. Ill be cruising
> at about 60 mph and it will float for a moment.
> Its not a hard jolt, like going over an expansion
> joint on a turn, but more like a gust of wind
> pushing the car sideways. It's not like a pull to
> on side either, it's more like a steering
> disconnect. Its quite pronounced, even the
> passenger noticed it. Probably happens about every
> 5 miles or so with no apparent trigger.
>
> This is while going straight on a smooth freeway.
> Its extremely disconcerting. The sensation of
> driving on a bed of marbles while going 60mph is not
> pleasant.
>
> A quick check doesnt reveal any obvious loose
> suspension parts. I havent done anything to the
> steering or suspension lately except remove the
> wheels for their annual greasing and brake check.
>
> Any clues as to what I should check?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 22:04:44 -0400
Subject: Re: camber question
Good post! FWIW, I've never found a need for toe
settings to be all that precise. Just scribing around
the tires while the car's on level ground, and
measuring the distance between the inside front and
rear of the marks has been sufficient. Of course
caster/camber has to be right first, but if someone
wanted to try different toe settings, or does the
occasional slalom, this is much cheaper than trips
to the alignment shop. :^))
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Jerry,
>
> Firstly, check toe in/ toe out - too much toe in
will also cause wear on the
> outer tyre edges - which is probably the culprit if
you have a road only
> Healey. A fraction of toe in (1mm) is about right.
Go to a place with a
> computer laser aligner and they'll get it exact.
You will never get it right
> by eye.
> Chris
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 22:04:29 -0400
Subject: Re: camber question
Excessive toe-out wears the inside edges, toe-in
wears the outer edges.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Check for correct toe in adjustment. Believe it or
not, it has a big effect
> on camber. Toed out will wear the outer edges
significantly.
> Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 22:04:58 -0400
Subject: Re: camber update
Hmm, the only rule of thumb about suspension settings
that I know of is that there aren't any. :^))
The type of tire construction has nothing to do with
the toe setting, though it does for the castor.
Ideally, radials need less due to their lower
sidewall stiffness.
Possibly you were thinking of the fact that if the
engineers did their job correctly, and so did
everyone else in the manufacturing chain, etc. (i.e.
perfect world), then with a driver only (220lb max)
and at 50mph (IIRC), the tire patch would be at zero
toe for max efficiency WRT rolling resistance.
GM
----- Original Message -----
>
> i believe you will find the general rule of thumb
is, if running radial tires, no toe-in. set the
wheels straight ahead. the old settings were for
bias ply tires.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 19:47:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Strange, spooky steering sensation
Bryan -
I've been told by several healey experts that the
sline hub lug nuts should be replaced with new ones
every time they are taken off (they have a self
locking mechanism that works best the first time they
are put on the car). In addition, they should be
tightened with a minimum of 50 ft lbs of torque... or
more preferably. The best way to do this is to have
the parking brake on when tightening the lug nuts.
Although I haven't taken this precaution (of replacing
the lug nuts every time), my lug nuts haven't come
loose in a long time now that I know to really tighten
them down. I keep new lug nuts in the car now just in
case I have to take them off... now if only my BN1 had
5 lugs on the axle rather than 4!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bryan Connington <bryanc@micron.net> wrote:
>
> My first posting if it appears strange appologies.
>
> I have a 1960 BT7 and have just finished rebuilding
> the back end and had
> exactly the symptoms described below. The car felt
> great after about 30 miles
> some at speed the handling became very strange.
> Initial inspection seemed fine
> until the car was jacked up and the weight came of
> the wheels and found one of
> the rear wheels had some travel. The culprit being
> exactely;
>
> 1. The rear spine hub. Check to see if it is
> securly
> bolted to the axle. I bet you this is what it is
> (that's what it sounds like to me). If the bolts
> come
> loose, the rear wheels will float a bit and when
> you're at speed & the car gets lighter (due to
> driving
> fast) and the problem becomes more pronounced. very
> common problem.
>
>
> The new 5 studs that I replaced actually threaded
> where the nuts loosened and
> they were done up tight only hours before.. If this
> is a common problem
> suggestions before I make the same mistake again, or
> have another interesting
> and maybe expensive driving experience.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Bryan
>
> Boise, ID
>
> 1960 BT7
>
> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 17:55:31 -0700 (PDT)
> From: International Investor
> <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: Strange, spooky steering sensation.
>
> Fred -
>
> Check the following:
>
> 1. The rear spine hub. Check to see if it is
> securly
> bolted to the axle. I bet you this is what it is
> (that's what it sounds like to me). If the bolts
> come
> loose, the rear wheels will float a bit and when
> you're at speed & the car gets lighter (due to
> driving
> fast) and the problem becomes more pronounced. very
> common problem.
>
> 2. Front stearing links. There should be no play
> in
> the links at all. Tug at them firmly to check.
> Don't
> confuse steering links with sway bar links. loose
> sway bar links won't cause this problem. If
> steering
> links show any play whatsover, replace 'em.
>
> 3. Rear axle hub nut is loose. With the rear wheel
> off (do this while checking the rear hubs), tug on
> the
> brake drums and see if they are loose at all. If
> so,
> rear hub is loose. Check bearings and main hub nut.
>
> 4. Stearing box. If accompanied with the
> "floating"
> sensation that the steering is all over the place as
> well, your steering box may be worn out. From your
> description, however, I don't think this is the
> case,
> but is still a possiblity.
>
> My bet is your problem is a rear spline hub is loose
> (#1).
>
> Good Luck -
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>
>
> - --- Fred ooman <KingPin@cosmo.com> wrote:
> >
> > My BJ8 is behaving badly at speed. Ill be
> cruising
> > at about 60 mph and it will float for a moment.
> > Its not a hard jolt, like going over an expansion
> > joint on a turn, but more like a gust of wind
> > pushing the car sideways. It's not like a pull to
> > on side either, it's more like a steering
> > disconnect. Its quite pronounced, even the
> > passenger noticed it. Probably happens about
> every
> > 5 miles or so with no apparent trigger.
> >
> > This is while going straight on a smooth freeway.
> > Its extremely disconcerting. The sensation of
> > driving on a bed of marbles while going 60mph is
> not
> > pleasant.
> >
> > A quick check doesnt reveal any obvious loose
> > suspension parts. I havent done anything to the
> > steering or suspension lately except remove the
> > wheels for their annual greasing and brake check.
> >
> > Any clues as to what I should check?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great
> prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 22:47:49 EDT
Subject: BN4L pictures
Got the fenders off the BN4, getting ready for paint. Found almost no rust,
just a spot repair in the dogleg that I'll replace with a repair section, and
new rockers. Everything else looks good. Was originally Florida green, don't
think I'm enough of a man to go back with that though. If you can't get
enough of this stuff, pictures are at:
http://hometown.aol.com/rawdawgs/myhomepage/sale.html
Thanks to everyone on the list for the great assistance in this project, Scott
BN4L
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 23:49:56 EDT
Subject: Healey Posters...
Hi Everyone.
While cruzin' the net a few days ago I happened on a site doing a Healey
search (about 12 pages deep in the search) that has a ton of posters taken
from old Healey brochures, Advertisements, etc. If you interested, go to :
http://www.vintagead.com/
Once there click on the European button. Scroll down to the search input and
put a check mark by the make and select Austin-Healey in the drop down and
click search. You will find 4 pages of posters. An I think at very
reasonable prices.
No financial involvement, just passing on information.
Richard
BN1 slowly making progress...
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 23:28:22 -0700
Subject: Front damper nut
List help please!
The front nut on my 29E engine crankshaft damper spun off. Is there a
torque setting for it?
Thanks you all for any help you can give.
John
If you want the whole story read on:
Wednesday evening I was driving down to the local pub when suddenly I heard
a screeching sound followed by a ticking noise.
The engine seemed fine but I immediately took it out of gear, then shut it
down and coasted into the nearest parking lot.
I stopped and noticed a lot of antifreeze pouring onto the pavement,
strangely it was not spraying as it might with a broken hose.
I asked myself how could a clicking sound and antifreeze pouring onto the
pavement be connected?
Water pump was new and felt solid.
Oh... Bent fan? How odd.
Punctured radiator?
What bent the fan?
Well, I found the damper nut nestled under the idler box behind the 'A' arm
attachment.
The locking washer was on the cross member, standing up I think.
Yes, it was peened against the damper nut. Two sides no less!
I guess the washer did not engage crank key.
The damper nut spun off, causing the whole mess, ouch$.
Oh well, the bright side is I am talking with the radiator shop on how best
to re-core the radiator and my neighbor has an impact wrench.
I'm going to fix this and prove that Healey's are reliable or at least
drive my self to death trying.
'62 BT7 MKII broken again ;_(
This year I am driving my Healey during British Car Week.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 23:40:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Anyone Going To California Healey Week?
Is anyone from this list going to California Healey Week at Rio Bravo
Resort east of Bakersfield?
I attended a Porsche Club Meet there a couple of years ago. Great
location for car clubs. The resort is off by itself east of town along
the river bluffs, so parking is relatively safe there. Large central
parking area surrounded by two story wings of rooms. Porsche Club had a
concours on the large grass lawn just east of the registration. Really
a nice place to spend a weekend.
I can make the short 70 mile trip down there from Visalia even with my
30 year old Michelins.
I hope to meet some of you there.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 01:18:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Front damper nut
John -
The dreaded damper nut.
A couple things:
1. Never admit to driving to "the local pub" if you
drive in the U.S. If necessary, Americans usually say
"I was driving to 'the office'" ... most cities in the
U.S. have a local bar called "The Office." I've
noticed 'The Office' is usually full of Scotsmen.
2. Check to see if there's a little english gnome in
the engine compartment somewhere with a big spanner in
his hand. That might be what caused the problem. I
have a gnome somewhere in my BJ8 that causes havoc on
occasion. Haven't managed to get rid of him yet.
3. I believe the torque setting for that is about
30-40 ft. lbs. The torque setting is less important
than making sure the dognut is firmly seated, and then
the lock washer needs to be firmly peened against the
dognut. If it isn't peened firmly, the dognut may
come loose, and through repeated vibration will break
the lockwasher's peg that goes in the woodruff
keyhole.
Be careful about tightening the dognut while the
engine is in the car - the only way to do this is with
the gear engaged in 3rd or 4th gear & brakes on. If
you whack on it with an impact wrench too long you may
cause damage to your gearbox and/or engine main
bearings. A nice firm turn with a large spanner (or
adjustable spanner) will probably be more appropriate.
A note on the radiator - get an EXCEL core radiatior
if you can, it's a high density core that works
wonders keeping the 6 cyl cars cool in hot weather.
Oh, wait... I forgot... you're in the UK.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- john spaur <jmsdarch@infoasis.com> wrote:
>
> List help please!
>
> The front nut on my 29E engine crankshaft damper
> spun off. Is there a
> torque setting for it?
>
> Thanks you all for any help you can give.
>
> John
>
>
> If you want the whole story read on:
>
> Wednesday evening I was driving down to the local
> pub when suddenly I heard
> a screeching sound followed by a ticking noise.
> The engine seemed fine but I immediately took it out
> of gear, then shut it
> down and coasted into the nearest parking lot.
> I stopped and noticed a lot of antifreeze pouring
> onto the pavement,
> strangely it was not spraying as it might with a
> broken hose.
> I asked myself how could a clicking sound and
> antifreeze pouring onto the
> pavement be connected?
> Water pump was new and felt solid.
> Oh... Bent fan? How odd.
> Punctured radiator?
> What bent the fan?
> Well, I found the damper nut nestled under the idler
> box behind the 'A' arm
> attachment.
> The locking washer was on the cross member, standing
> up I think.
> Yes, it was peened against the damper nut. Two sides
> no less!
> I guess the washer did not engage crank key.
> The damper nut spun off, causing the whole mess,
> ouch$.
>
> Oh well, the bright side is I am talking with the
> radiator shop on how best
> to re-core the radiator and my neighbor has an
> impact wrench.
> I'm going to fix this and prove that Healey's are
> reliable or at least
> drive my self to death trying.
>
> '62 BT7 MKII broken again ;_(
> This year I am driving my Healey during British Car
> Week.
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 05:43:31 -0400
Subject: suspicions... it still wasn't over
Upon thinking about the Tappet, I became suspicious... So, I
didn't just toss in the new tappet and declare life good... (if
I did, I'd be in real trouble...turns out). I was tempted
however, because the new tappet seemed to just slip right in and
all I had to do was reseal the tappet cover and I'd be on the
road.
Of course, this email is going to reveal how really stupid I
am....
When I put the original tappet in its chase, it along with all
its friends seemed to slip into the engine very simply. So I
wasn't suspecting my real problem. I rotated the cam shaft by
hand when I put the original set in and everything moved
smoothly and as expected (i.e. each tappet lifted and fell
properly in its chase)...
But, when the engine was run something seriously wrong happened
to the tappet in number 9.
Anyone have a guess?... Especially anyone of you who saw the
picture?... I noticed that the bad tappet went bad around its
edges... that was the thing that was bothering me. (why the
edges? and not the center of the tappet?)...
To make the long story short, here is the true problem: The cam
wasn't snug against the control washer. At the number 9 tappet
(not true for any other) there is a very close tolerance between
where the cam lobe and one of the main bearings for the
camshaft. If the camshaft drifts aft in the engine just a
little bit, the tappet can get hung up against the bearing grind
instead of the lobe grind. If this happens, the bearing grind
hits the tappet. For an ordinary tappet, one that has a
completely cylindrical shape, the bearing grind would probably
be kept at a fixed distance aft. But for the Welch tappet,
with its oil flow improvement flat, the cam could drift just a
hair further aft when the tappet was in the "right" rotation.
If the cam drifts aft that extra bit, then when the tappet makes
its next rotation and the full cylindrical shape comes in
contact with the bearing grind, it starts to get severely
hammered around the edges.... (and I presume the valve doesn't
get a chance to properly close, but in the case of my engine, it
seemed to get sufficiently closed to run smoothly.... that's an
anomoly in my story, but perhaps the cam/tappet damage happed so
fast that the tappet continued to function properly but with its
edges chewed away.... )... (If I'd let it continue, the tappet
edges might have been just torn away until there was a ring
around the circumference of the damaged tappet and a functioning
center area????... somehow I doubt this would have held up for
very long...)
Anyway, here's the dumb part. How could the cam shaft drift
aft?...(only one way: the cam gear wasn't fully seated against
the cam control washer. ) It turns out that the cam control
washer only works if the cam is held tightly against the aft
side of the washer, and the gear is held tightly against the
front side of the washer. When I assembled the engine I
thought that had happened. But I was concerned that on the
washer that I had, there was some significant wear displayed.
I convinced myself that this wear was actually machined into the
washer (because it really looked well machined) to allow the cam
timing gear to align with the crankshaft timing gear. Upon
assembly, the chain was nicely tensioned and properly aligned,
so everything looked ok. What I missed was, the cam timing
gear wasn't fully seated into that "machined" area!!!!.)... So,
when I assembled it, it all looked tight torqued, and happy...
but when the engine started, the vibration and force of the cam
motion was able to move the control washer ever so slightly to
just allow the gear to seat a bit further into the wear area of
the washer. The result?... The result was the cam could move
for and aft in the engine block by about 1/32 of an inch... and
that was the formula for disaster on tappet number 9.
(starting to sound like an old Beatles song here...... Number 9,
Number 9, etc.)
Anyway, my suspicions and by now, my paranoia, made me pull the
engine one more time (yes... the engine is out of the car
AGAIN!!) and check the cam for/aft float... that is how I
discovered the worn control washer was really causing me
grief... Now, how stupid am I?... I reused the old washer, even
though I had ordered a brand new one months ago, I was too cheap
to stick it in the engine... (the voice in my head said: "awww,
why replace a perfectly servicable washer with a new one?...
this one just has some nice machining done to it to make the
alignment perfect with the cam/crankshaft timing gears... and
I'd have to reproduce that machining... too much trouble to
inflict on a new part... let's just reuse the old one...)...(bad
voice@#!@#!!!!).... (I should have said: Oh my gawd, look at
the wear on this old control washer, let's use the new one I
have in my drawer!!!)...
(But, if I'd done that, you'd have not been entertained with my
story...)
Ok, learned that lesson...
Engine goes back in over the weekend....new tappet, new control
washer, self-flagilated-owner. (but I'm getting really good at
pulling an engine...:-) )
-Skip-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 05:49:56 -0500
Subject: Re: suspicions... it still wasn't over
Come on Skip..... Give yourself a break.... You knew that washer was
Machined Just to allow you to snatch that motor one more time....
I really enjoyed your sharing all of that..... You did it so you could teach
us not to do it..... I for one learned.... and I thank you for the
effort....
I have had lifters do that before in differnt kinds of motors.... Cam Float
can be MUCH worse then ONE lifter... trust me.... Seems I lost a Complete
motor for JUST that reason..... one of them finally jammed and Held the cam
long enough to lose the belt.... then all the Valves played kissy face with
the Pistons.... very ugly day on the salt as I recall.... Hmmm
again thanks for taking the time to write it down....
Keith ( Miss Kathy's Bugeye has Velcro on the Motor Mounts .... or at least
that is the threat )
----- Original Message -----
From: "skip" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 4:43 AM
Subject: suspicions... it still wasn't over
>
> Upon thinking about the Tappet, I became suspicious... So, I
> didn't just toss in the new tappet and declare life good... (if
> I did, I'd be in real trouble...turns out). I was tempted
> however, because the new tappet seemed to just slip right in and
> all I had to do was reseal the tappet cover and I'd be on the
> road.
>
> Of course, this email is going to reveal how really stupid I
> am....
>
> When I put the original tappet in its chase, it along with all
> its friends seemed to slip into the engine very simply. So I
> wasn't suspecting my real problem. I rotated the cam shaft by
> hand when I put the original set in and everything moved
> smoothly and as expected (i.e. each tappet lifted and fell
> properly in its chase)...
>
> But, when the engine was run something seriously wrong happened
> to the tappet in number 9.
>
> Anyone have a guess?... Especially anyone of you who saw the
> picture?... I noticed that the bad tappet went bad around its
> edges... that was the thing that was bothering me. (why the
> edges? and not the center of the tappet?)...
>
> To make the long story short, here is the true problem: The cam
> wasn't snug against the control washer. At the number 9 tappet
> (not true for any other) there is a very close tolerance between
> where the cam lobe and one of the main bearings for the
> camshaft. If the camshaft drifts aft in the engine just a
> little bit, the tappet can get hung up against the bearing grind
> instead of the lobe grind. If this happens, the bearing grind
> hits the tappet. For an ordinary tappet, one that has a
> completely cylindrical shape, the bearing grind would probably
> be kept at a fixed distance aft. But for the Welch tappet,
> with its oil flow improvement flat, the cam could drift just a
> hair further aft when the tappet was in the "right" rotation.
> If the cam drifts aft that extra bit, then when the tappet makes
> its next rotation and the full cylindrical shape comes in
> contact with the bearing grind, it starts to get severely
> hammered around the edges.... (and I presume the valve doesn't
> get a chance to properly close, but in the case of my engine, it
> seemed to get sufficiently closed to run smoothly.... that's an
> anomoly in my story, but perhaps the cam/tappet damage happed so
> fast that the tappet continued to function properly but with its
> edges chewed away.... )... (If I'd let it continue, the tappet
> edges might have been just torn away until there was a ring
> around the circumference of the damaged tappet and a functioning
> center area????... somehow I doubt this would have held up for
> very long...)
>
> Anyway, here's the dumb part. How could the cam shaft drift
> aft?...(only one way: the cam gear wasn't fully seated against
> the cam control washer. ) It turns out that the cam control
> washer only works if the cam is held tightly against the aft
> side of the washer, and the gear is held tightly against the
> front side of the washer. When I assembled the engine I
> thought that had happened. But I was concerned that on the
> washer that I had, there was some significant wear displayed.
> I convinced myself that this wear was actually machined into the
> washer (because it really looked well machined) to allow the cam
> timing gear to align with the crankshaft timing gear. Upon
> assembly, the chain was nicely tensioned and properly aligned,
> so everything looked ok. What I missed was, the cam timing
> gear wasn't fully seated into that "machined" area!!!!.)... So,
> when I assembled it, it all looked tight torqued, and happy...
> but when the engine started, the vibration and force of the cam
> motion was able to move the control washer ever so slightly to
> just allow the gear to seat a bit further into the wear area of
> the washer. The result?... The result was the cam could move
> for and aft in the engine block by about 1/32 of an inch... and
> that was the formula for disaster on tappet number 9.
> (starting to sound like an old Beatles song here...... Number 9,
> Number 9, etc.)
>
> Anyway, my suspicions and by now, my paranoia, made me pull the
> engine one more time (yes... the engine is out of the car
> AGAIN!!) and check the cam for/aft float... that is how I
> discovered the worn control washer was really causing me
> grief... Now, how stupid am I?... I reused the old washer, even
> though I had ordered a brand new one months ago, I was too cheap
> to stick it in the engine... (the voice in my head said: "awww,
> why replace a perfectly servicable washer with a new one?...
> this one just has some nice machining done to it to make the
> alignment perfect with the cam/crankshaft timing gears... and
> I'd have to reproduce that machining... too much trouble to
> inflict on a new part... let's just reuse the old one...)...(bad
> voice@#!@#!!!!).... (I should have said: Oh my gawd, look at
> the wear on this old control washer, let's use the new one I
> have in my drawer!!!)...
>
> (But, if I'd done that, you'd have not been entertained with my
> story...)
>
> Ok, learned that lesson...
> Engine goes back in over the weekend....new tappet, new control
> washer, self-flagilated-owner. (but I'm getting really good at
> pulling an engine...:-) )
>
> -Skip-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 08:27:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Front damper nut
Hi John,
Don't feel too bad, you are most certainly not the first person that this has
happened to to and I can assure you that your quest to prove that Healeys can be
reliable is not futile.
The front crank nut torque is not specified as far as I have been able to
determine but it is meant to be VERY tight.
The factory tool for tightening it is part #18G391 and is illustrated in the
back
of the factory Workshop Manual. You will note that this tool is designed for
hitting with a big hammer. I would bet with this tool there would be no
difficulty in tightening the nut to 250 lb. ft.
I have never seen one stripped (although I have seen one cross threaded) and
once
it is done up tight it does not come loose even if the key is bad and no lock
tab
is fitted, which I have also seen several times.
Good luck with your mission. Be assured that with persistence you will get
there.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
john spaur wrote:
> List help please!
>
> The front nut on my 29E engine crankshaft damper spun off. Is there a
> torque setting for it?
>
> Thanks you all for any help you can give.
>
> John
>
> If you want the whole story read on:
>
> Wednesday evening I was driving down to the local pub when suddenly I heard
> a screeching sound followed by a ticking noise.
> The engine seemed fine but I immediately took it out of gear, then shut it
> down and coasted into the nearest parking lot.
> I stopped and noticed a lot of antifreeze pouring onto the pavement,
> strangely it was not spraying as it might with a broken hose.
> I asked myself how could a clicking sound and antifreeze pouring onto the
> pavement be connected?
> Water pump was new and felt solid.
> Oh... Bent fan? How odd.
> Punctured radiator?
> What bent the fan?
> Well, I found the damper nut nestled under the idler box behind the 'A' arm
> attachment.
> The locking washer was on the cross member, standing up I think.
> Yes, it was peened against the damper nut. Two sides no less!
> I guess the washer did not engage crank key.
> The damper nut spun off, causing the whole mess, ouch$.
>
> Oh well, the bright side is I am talking with the radiator shop on how best
> to re-core the radiator and my neighbor has an impact wrench.
> I'm going to fix this and prove that Healey's are reliable or at least
> drive my self to death trying.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 08:28:53 -0500
Subject: Capital Classic June 15-17
The Capital Classic is only four weeks away!
The Capital Area AHC's inaugural Capital Classic if fast approaching.
If you haven't sent in your registration form, please do so as soon
as possible. The registration fee is only $25.00, but it goes up to
$30.00 after June 1. Sending your form in now will make things much
easier for the planning committee to prepare for your arrival,
including ordering the correct size for your complimentary T-shirt.
Our schedule includes a fun rally, popular vote car show, tech
session , funkhana and more!
Please submit your completed forms to Allen Feldman. For more
information visit our Web site,
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc or contact Allen,
mailto:Allen.Feldman@faa.gov, or Howard Gilson,
mailto:hgilson@bigplanet.com.
Thanks and see you at the Capital Classic in Frederick, MD, June 15-17.
Herman
--
Lucas trained Webmaster
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Malcolm Bruce" <malcolm at procurcorp.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 09:11:10 -0400
Subject: BJ7 rear seats
I just removed the original seats from a BJ7 purchased last month and have
several questions:
1 seat pan was painted the usual black before being upholstered but the
other was painted after. Anyone encounter this before?
2. The rear seats are vinyl. There is no evidence of them ever being apart
before, original horse hair [think thats what it is] and cotton filler.
Weren't rear seats prior to BJ8s supposed to be leather?
Appreciate any answers to this mystery.
Mal
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 09:20:30 -0400
Subject: The big do in PA this summer
Does anyone on the list have any details on the big Healey meet in PA
this Summer? Dates, location, etc.
Bob Denton
BN6 1958
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "R. C. Brown" <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 09:29:26 -0500
Subject: September Healey Fest in June
The September Healey Fest in June is only six weeks away! June 15-17.
The Central Indiana and Midwest AHC are hosting their first joint event,
combining Central Indiana's September Fest with the Midwest's Healey Fest.
The event will begin with a Funkhana and Hospitality Friday evening.
Saturday will include a Popularity Show, Rally and Gymkhana followed by
a evening Dinner and Silent Auction.
Billie Creek Inn, Rockville, IN is the host location in the heart of
Covered Bridge country in western Indiana. Registration information
can be found on the Midwest AHC web page.
(http://memebers.aol.com/midwestah/club)
Billie Creek Inn and the secondary Motel Forest are nearing capacity,
early registration and room reservations are a necessity.
Thanks and see you at "September Healey Fest in June", Rockville,IN , June
15-17.
Bob Brown
Midwest AHC
http://members.aol.com/midwestah/club
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 07:39:25 -0700
Subject: RE: BN4L pictures
Scott,
It does look pretty good from the pictures, rust wise.
Me, I would stick with the Florida green. I like to be different and it does
look nice when fresh and glossy which it would with a clear coat paint. Its
probably a good color for chrome wires also.
Ken Freese
plain vanilla original white 65 BJ8
-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 07:51:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Front damper nut
Alan,
Thanks for the information. Very helpful. I will respond by number.
1. I had just left the office. I am also single and was headed to a
local Irish bar.
I hope this doesn't get me in trouble with the list.
2. My car is named Nemesis and it does have a gnome. I have not seen
it, only the problems it
causes, such as the very small oil leak after having replaced all the
seals, rear main, etc. I can not find
The source. I suspect the gnome has hidden a small oil can somewhere and
squirts it around the bottom
of the bell housing when I am asleep.
3. The lock washer may not have been peened enough. The lock tab is
gone but may have broken
off before I rebuilt the engine. I do not recall as I thought the lock
washer was kept from spinning by the key.
I am in the US, California, and will check on an Excel core.
Cheers
John
And yes I am planning on going to the Bar tonight, just without Nemesis.
She will understand.
At 01:18 AM 5/11/01 -0700, you wrote:
>John -
>
>The dreaded damper nut.
>
>A couple things:
>
>1. Never admit to driving to "the local pub" if you
>drive in the U.S. If necessary, Americans usually say
>"I was driving to 'the office'" ... most cities in the
>U.S. have a local bar called "The Office." I've
>noticed 'The Office' is usually full of Scotsmen.
>
>2. Check to see if there's a little english gnome in
>the engine compartment somewhere with a big spanner in
>his hand. That might be what caused the problem. I
>have a gnome somewhere in my BJ8 that causes havoc on
>occasion. Haven't managed to get rid of him yet.
>
>3. I believe the torque setting for that is about
>30-40 ft. lbs. The torque setting is less important
>than making sure the dognut is firmly seated, and then
>the lock washer needs to be firmly peened against the
>dognut. If it isn't peened firmly, the dognut may
>come loose, and through repeated vibration will break
>the lockwasher's peg that goes in the woodruff
>keyhole.
>
>Be careful about tightening the dognut while the
>engine is in the car - the only way to do this is with
>the gear engaged in 3rd or 4th gear & brakes on. If
>you whack on it with an impact wrench too long you may
>cause damage to your gearbox and/or engine main
>bearings. A nice firm turn with a large spanner (or
>adjustable spanner) will probably be more appropriate.
>
>A note on the radiator - get an EXCEL core radiatior
>if you can, it's a high density core that works
>wonders keeping the 6 cyl cars cool in hot weather.
>Oh, wait... I forgot... you're in the UK.
>
>Regards,
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>--- john spaur <jmsdarch@infoasis.com> wrote:
> >
> > List help please!
> >
> > The front nut on my 29E engine crankshaft damper
> > spun off. Is there a
> > torque setting for it?
> >
> > Thanks you all for any help you can give.
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> > If you want the whole story read on:
> >
> > Wednesday evening I was driving down to the local
> > pub when suddenly I heard
> > a screeching sound followed by a ticking noise.
> > The engine seemed fine but I immediately took it out
> > of gear, then shut it
> > down and coasted into the nearest parking lot.
> > I stopped and noticed a lot of antifreeze pouring
> > onto the pavement,
> > strangely it was not spraying as it might with a
> > broken hose.
> > I asked myself how could a clicking sound and
> > antifreeze pouring onto the
> > pavement be connected?
> > Water pump was new and felt solid.
> > Oh... Bent fan? How odd.
> > Punctured radiator?
> > What bent the fan?
> > Well, I found the damper nut nestled under the idler
> > box behind the 'A' arm
> > attachment.
> > The locking washer was on the cross member, standing
> > up I think.
> > Yes, it was peened against the damper nut. Two sides
> > no less!
> > I guess the washer did not engage crank key.
> > The damper nut spun off, causing the whole mess,
> > ouch$.
> >
> > Oh well, the bright side is I am talking with the
> > radiator shop on how best
> > to re-core the radiator and my neighbor has an
> > impact wrench.
> > I'm going to fix this and prove that Healey's are
> > reliable or at least
> > drive my self to death trying.
> >
> > '62 BT7 MKII broken again ;_(
> > This year I am driving my Healey during British Car
> > Week.
>Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
>http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 09:08:18 -0700
Subject: Re: bad lifters
I am just about to order a set of lifters from Moss. Does anyone have any
experience with the quality of their lifters. Please reply to me off list
if you have bad things to say.
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK2
'62 BT7 MK2
----------
> From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
> To: 'healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: bad lifters
> Date: Thursday, May 10, 2001 7:49 AM
>
>
> I can remember Russ Thompson at AH Enterprises take a bunch of lifters
from
> a freshly rebuilt engine in a customers car and fling them across the
shop.
> This was in the 70's. The problem of poor heat treating of lifters has
been
> around a long time. Back then, originals had to be ground and reheat
> treated. New ones were not available. The process is sometimes called
> Parkerizing (because extra carbon is introduced to that surface
somehow?).
> The wear surface has to be extra hard compared to the rest of the lifter.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 12:33:25 EDT
Subject: Re: bad lifters
Hi John,
I purchased a set from Moss through David Nock and just to be careful, sent
them of to be tested for hardness and they came back with a good report card.
This is something I would always do just as a precaution. Moss sells them,
but we don't know who made them and we don't know how good their quality
control is. Who taught me this? Roger, of course.
Richard Gordon
Taking out the BT7 for little drive just to make sure everything still works.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 15:10:58 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ7 rear seats
In a message dated 5/11/01 9:18:07 AM, malcolm@procurcorp.com writes:
<<I just removed the original seats from a BJ7 purchased last month and have
several questions:
2. The rear seats are vinyl. There is no evidence of them ever being apart
before, original horse hair [think thats what it is] and cotton filler.
Weren't rear seats prior to BJ8s supposed to be leather?
My original BJ7 rear seats were exactly the same. According to Gary &
Roger's Restoration Guide, p. 147, leather was found only on the front of the
seat back, the seat cushions, and the top of the armrest. Everything else
was "leathercloth"
Happy Healeying,
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brian Chapin" <bchapin at smartstuff.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 13:20:02 -0700
Subject: 1955 Healey 100M
I am considering the purchase of a 1955 100M. It is is good condition, an
older restoration (10+ years). It has been well cared for and loved. It is
not a factory conversion. It was converted by a race enthusiast in the
1960s and raced locally. Pictures of the car racing are available. Since
then its history is known - including a 17 year storage. It was purchased
by the current owner, restored and loved since. It has won numerous awards
at meets during the 90s. I believe it is in the 100M registry.
The question is - What is this car worth? I want to offer a fair price. I
have seen what are represented as recent concours gold restorations asking
$45K - $50K in Hemmings - not that anyone is paying those prices.... Any
thoughts??
Brian Chapin
1967 BJ8
1961 Bugeye
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 16:38:39 -0400
Subject: Re: BN4L pictures
> Scott,
> It does look pretty good from the pictures, rust wise.
> Me, I would stick with the Florida green. I like to be different and it
does
> look nice when fresh and glossy which it would with a clear coat paint.
Its
> probably a good color for chrome wires also.
> Ken Freese
> plain vanilla original white 65 BJ8
Scott,
The car looks great. What an easy restoration, relatively speaking!
I'd have to agree with Ken on the color issue. I know color is such an
individual taste sort of thing, but perhaps give it some thought. The BN4
with Florida green would have had the lovely so called "Grey" interior trim,
which is sort of a pale parchment, or a light mushroom color, and would have
been accented with dark green seat piping and dark green carpets. Top and
tonneau would have been the grey too. This is a really sharp color
combination, and well worth giving some careful consideration. A compromise
on the Florida Green color would be to tone it down with the Ivory side
panels.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "E & J Smith" <bluechip at comcastnet.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 16:34:14 -0400
Subject: Re: BN4L pictures
Scott
Great Photo. It is rare to find an original car with such good inner sheet
metal.... You are one of the fortunate ones..
Good Luck as you continue your paint job.
Jim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brian Chapin" <bchapin at smartstuff.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 14:35:15 -0700
Subject: Re(2): 1955 Healey 100M
Thanks for the reply. I think the real question is whether this car
qualifies as a 100M.
I have only just begun to research the car and check through the
documentation. I have been told that it was converted with a factory kit -
a complete conversion. It has a 4 speed transmission - not a three speed.
I do not know when the three speed was changed out - at the time of the
conversion or there after.
Actually, come to think through the conversation I had with the owner, it
is not clear if the car was converted from a Le Mans kit or from the 100M
parts on the race car the driver wrecked. I'll have to check. A quick
check of the car leads me to believe the parts are real LeMans parts...
but I do not have enough experience to know for sure.
The paint is quite good - done some time ago - with a couple of minor
scratches - but all in all quite beautiful. There is no rust. The
underside looks very good. There was a rust repair on one dog leg repaired
many years ago that on close examination can be seen. It is not rusting
again however. My mechanic has worked on the car and tells me it is in
execellent condition. It has not been wrecked (to my knowledge). I do not
know if the log books are included. No cut up body parts - just a really
nice looking BN1 (I think). Its bragging sheet lists numerous 1st, 2nd and
3rd place trophys in NW ABFM and at Tahoe.
It apparently won many races in Class E Production at Portland
International Raceway.
Brian Chapin
1967 BJ8
1961 Bugeye
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 17:45:09 -0400
Subject: 100M
Hi Brian,
If you can give me the numbers for the car, I'll try to help you on the
originality.
I just bought my BN2, original car with a Le Mans kit, not installed, for
$12,000 locally
with no rust and quite low miles. Don't be swayed by the over-done LeMans
prices
Having owned all sorts of Healeys over the years, I can tell you to enjoy
what you
buy, at a fair price, and don't worry about the value.
I bought my first 100S for $400.00 in 1976 and sold the last one for
thousands, but
my favorite is the one I now own.
Regards,
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 19:48:59 EDT
Subject: Re: OD current draw
I used a 10 amp fuse and have not had it blow.
Ned Paulsen
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "E & J Smith" <bluechip at comcastnet.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 20:40:56 -0400
Subject: Re: The big do in PA this summer x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Bob:
AHSTC Encounter, Eden Resort, Lancaster, PA, August 15-18. Go to
http://www.austin-healey-stc.org/encountup.htm
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 9:20 AM
Subject: The big do in PA this summer x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
>
> Does anyone on the list have any details on the big Healey meet in PA
> this Summer? Dates, location, etc.
>
> Bob Denton
> BN6 1958
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From frank filangeri <ffilangeri at juno.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 21:28:06 -0400
Subject: Final update: BJ8/TR-3 parts for sale.
Last update before this stuff goes to ebay or the dumpster. All BJ8
except a few TR-3 items at the end.
MAKE AN OFFER!
Thanks to all who purchased the "missing" numbers!
Original list updated 5/11/01:
3. Timing chain cover
4. Complete Oil filter assembly including the aluminum head and right
angle block fitting.
Great to have a clean spare assy ready to go at oil change time!
8. Original Rear bumpers (2)-need some dent removal and rechrome.
9. Original Front bumper-same as above.
10. Overriders(2)-same as above except one fairly heavy horizontal
crease.
11. Vent window assembly-drivers side, good glass.
12. Windshield frame-four pieces; disassembled; decent chrome.
13. Rear chrome surround (the big U shaped thing-difficult to ship)
18. Grab handle for door/conv top(4)-3 with "scalloped" edges, one smooth
19. Fender spear-passenger (left) side
20. Switch panel-engraved chrome piece switches mount through
22. Conv top latches-one pair, rusty chrome on screw plates
23. Front fender left side-rusty bottom, very good from top of wheel arch
forward
25. Door hinges-one full set
30. Front grill slat assembly-damaged but with enough good "teeth" to
make it worth saving. Has a bent set of air baffles attached. Could be
straightened.
34. Trunk latch mechanism-square plate with pivoting hook.
42. Flywheel-good ring gear, somewhat rusty but very useable with a skim
cut
43. Exhaust manifolds (one set)-good condition
45. Adjustable Steering Wheel and coil spring cover-cracked plastic but
very useable with rim cover (included)
46. Rear carb air filter (with breather stub)
50. Heater switch and cable mechanism with pull knob-no fascia...just the
internals
51. About 30 white bath towels with 2 silk screened red Healeys. Great
ground cloth for show display of tools, jack, etc. $4 each plus $5 UPS
shipping up to 10. Most show a slight discoloration along the fold lines
from age.
52. Used original windshield mounting rubber. Serviceable.
53. Exterior door handle. No lock-just the casting.
TR-3:
B. Intake Manifold
C. Drive Shaft
D. Aluminum thermostat housing-both halves.
E. Bonnet spring assembly -pops open bonnet when Dzus fasteners are
released.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kenneth P. Beck" <kenbeck at compuserve.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 21:48:02 -0400
Subject: Eastern Pa. British Car Show
Join the Keystone Region MG Club for its 8th Annual British Motorcar
Gathering on Sunday, June 10, 2001 at the Hellertown, PA Reservoir Park.
All marques welcome. Popular vote show with classes and awards determined
by early pre-registrations. Three awards per class. Food and drinks
available with large pavilion and picnic tables. DJ, flea market, door
prizes and coloring contest for the kids. Past entries between 150-200
cars. $10 pre-registration. For information e-mail keystone@britautos.com
or phone 610-865-3419 (Mike Jones).
Ken Beck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 21:09:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100M
Bill -
Assume that last sentence of yours was written with a
smug grin! I agree with your pricing. I picked up my
90% restored BN1 for $13,500 last year (standard
spec), super clean, no rust, runs fantastic, and
perfect paint & body & everything works. Now all it
needs is a carpet kit and a 100M Cam! Got new HD6s
from Australia....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "William H. Wood" <healeybill@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:
>
> Hi Brian,
>
> If you can give me the numbers for the car, I'll try
> to help you on the
> originality.
>
> I just bought my BN2, original car with a Le Mans
> kit, not installed, for
> $12,000 locally
> with no rust and quite low miles. Don't be swayed
> by the over-done LeMans
> prices
>
> Having owned all sorts of Healeys over the years, I
> can tell you to enjoy
> what you
> buy, at a fair price, and don't worry about the
> value.
>
> I bought my first 100S for $400.00 in 1976 and sold
> the last one for
> thousands, but
> my favorite is the one I now own.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bill Wood
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 22:09:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: correction: 100M
errr... make that H6s! HD8s for the BJ8.
Alan
--- International Investor
<international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Bill -
>
> Assume that last sentence of yours was written with
> a
> smug grin! I agree with your pricing. I picked up
> my
> 90% restored BN1 for $13,500 last year (standard
> spec), super clean, no rust, runs fantastic, and
> perfect paint & body & everything works. Now all it
> needs is a carpet kit and a 100M Cam! Got new HD6s
> from Australia....
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- "William H. Wood" <healeybill@worldnet.att.net>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Brian,
> >
> > If you can give me the numbers for the car, I'll
> try
> > to help you on the
> > originality.
> >
> > I just bought my BN2, original car with a Le Mans
> > kit, not installed, for
> > $12,000 locally
> > with no rust and quite low miles. Don't be swayed
> > by the over-done LeMans
> > prices
> >
> > Having owned all sorts of Healeys over the years,
> I
> > can tell you to enjoy
> > what you
> > buy, at a fair price, and don't worry about the
> > value.
> >
> > I bought my first 100S for $400.00 in 1976 and
> sold
> > the last one for
> > thousands, but
> > my favorite is the one I now own.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Bill Wood
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great
> prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 16:40:12 +1000
Subject: Rich running
Hi Listers
I have a problem getting the carbs (HD6's) tuned right.
The only way I can get them to NOT run rich is to open the slow running
screw a little with the jet adjusting screws backed right off. The car runs
beautifully but idles at about 1200 rpm. If I turn the slow running screw
down to get the idle right it runs rich again.
Does this mean the jets/needles are worn ? Is there something I am missing ?
Do I need new/rebuilt carbs ?
TIA
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at email.msn.com>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 08:15:53 -0600
Subject: Fishing and the Pacific Northwest Historics
This year's family vacation is to race the BT7 at the Pacific Northwest
Historics in Seattle July 6-7-8. The problem is to sell it to the rest of the
crew I have promised to take them fishing on Puget sound for a day before the
races. Anyone know of some good fishing boats that can take seven people
fishing for a day somewhere between Portland and
Seattle?....................Cheers Henry Morrison Cedar Crest, NM '60 BT7, 61
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bryan Connington" <bryanc at micron.net>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 09:20:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Strange, spooky steering sensation
Thanks for the help all,
The nuts and the studs are new, were , my mistake is tightened down hard but
not torque set. Going through the loop again and will recheck after a few
miles.
Bryan
1960 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@home.com>
To: "International Investor" <international_investor@yahoo.com>; "Bryan
Connington" <bryanc@micron.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2001 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: Strange, spooky steering sensation
> <<be replaced with new ones
> every time they are taken off (they have a self
> locking mechanism that works best the first time they
> are put on the car). >>
>
> GOSPEL, Gents.
>
> Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 13:09:54 -0500
Subject: Sheet Metal, Frame parts
Listers,
Not to beat a dead horse, but I didn't get much feed back last time.
As we all know quality and prices on Healey metal products varies
drastically from one vender to another.
So far I have gathered this information;
1) Stick with one MANUFACTURE to make sure all pieces fit properly.
2) Kilmartin is good quality, but very expensive. (British Car Specialists)
3) SC, Austin Healey Spares, and some Kilmartin metal available. ( Moss)
Don't know what your getting unless you ask and your salesmen is in a
good
mood that day.
4) Good quality and easy to deal with. Manufactures the parts to order,
Vintage Automotive Engineering)
5) What ever the flavor of the month is. Last time I tried to get some
technical help
on Wire Wheels I was told that there wasn't any help available.Nobody
knew what the brand of wire wheels were that they carried.
Seems that the only people to talk to there are the sales people. Please
let me know if this has changed. (Victoria British)
6) Not much info. on them. (Classic Collectibles Co.)
Please feel free to correct any of the above information.
My last and final question to those of you that have redone floors, sills,
shut and hinge pillars, outriggers,etc. Do I have to buy all Kilmartin
products or can I go with another less expensive manufacture and achieve the
same results. What area can I do this in.
I am in the process of purchasing Kilmartin sills,and shut plates from
British Car Specialist. That purchase alone cost me $288.00 and I still
have the rest to go, not to mention hiring out my welding. Big bite in the
budget. (ouch) Sorry David but your prices are out of touch for this
Healey owner.
Please send your experiences off the list or on. Maybe a little feed back
will help bring at least some of these prices down and maybe not. Who
knows? Last I checked these parts aren't made out of unobtainium yet. Why
the big mark up on Healey stuff? I don't see this happening with MGB and
MGA parts. The A's and 3000 even went down the same assembly line for
awhile so probably used the same quality of parts when they started in this
world,. What changed?
I LOVE MY HEALEY , but what its doing to the budget is unlike any other
affordable English car I have ever restored.
BRING YOUR PRICES DOWN MR. VENDOR!
Make this an enjoyable hobby for the young and the rich.
Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 11:54:05 -0700
Subject: Lifters
Many thanks to all those who responded to my search for info on Lifters!
This List is great.
John Snyder
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 17:29:40 -0400
Subject: Healey sightings
Anybody see the beautiful black Healey on the Verizon commercial during the
Byron Nelson Golf Classic today??
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 17:35:31 -0400
Subject: Another benefit of the BJ8 registry
Hello, Healeyphiles -
A couple weeks ago I was at a British car day in Winston-Salem, NC. There
was a vendor there who had a bunch of keys and lock cylinders for British
cars. One of the keys had the number FS.914 on it. I recognized this key
as belonging to a BJ8 (perhaps, among a lot of other cars).
It is a goal of the BJ8 registry to accumulate as many BMIHT certificates as
possible, or at least to document the data from them. This normally
includes a Key Number. Because there are currently 5 BJ8s in the registry
records that identify an FS.914 key from the certificate data, one of those
5 owners will have the opportunity to acquire a spare original key -- first
come first served, and at the cost of purchasing it from the vendor.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 19:07:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Re(2): 1955 Healey 100M
In a message dated 5/11/01 9:40:08 PM, bchapin@smartstuff.com writes:
<<
Thanks for the reply. I think the real question is whether this car
qualifies as a 100M. >>
Just a refresher on agreed semantics and definitions. a "100M" or "Factory
converted to Le Mans Specifications" car was a BN2 that was shipped from the
Longbridge factory to Donald Healey Motor Works, converted there with the Le
Mans conversion parts, then shipped back to Longbridge for final finishing
before being sent to a dealer. All BN2s converted in this way were recorded
as such on the build card, and can be confirmed by the Heritage Trust
certificate and visual inspection that the body numbers stamped on the
cockpit surrounds agree with the body numbers on the certificate. Any car
that had its conversion done after being shipped to the dealer is not
considered a 100M, but is rather a "Le Mans-modified Healey."
It is worth noting that an unknown number of BN1s were converted to Le Mans
specs during production and do qualify to be called "Factory-modified" though
there aren't any written records to validate them, other than the dealer bill
of sale. It's hard to argue that these BN1s should be called "100Ms" since
the term wasn't invented until the BN2s were put into production, though that
is a small point.
Let the flames begin (again).
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 17:34:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Re(2): 1955 Healey 100M
Gary writes:
"and can be confirmed by the Heritage Trust certificate"
The only indication on the BMIHT certificate, I believe, was "fitted with
louvered bonnet,"
or something similar.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: Re(2): 1955 Healey 100M
>
> In a message dated 5/11/01 9:40:08 PM, bchapin@smartstuff.com writes:
>
> <<
> Thanks for the reply. I think the real question is whether this car
> qualifies as a 100M. >>
>
> Just a refresher on agreed semantics and definitions. a "100M" or "Factory
> converted to Le Mans Specifications" car was a BN2 that was shipped from the
> Longbridge factory to Donald Healey Motor Works, converted there with the Le
> Mans conversion parts, then shipped back to Longbridge for final finishing
> before being sent to a dealer. All BN2s converted in this way were recorded
> as such on the build card, and can be confirmed by the Heritage Trust
> certificate and visual inspection that the body numbers stamped on the
> cockpit surrounds agree with the body numbers on the certificate. Any car
> that had its conversion done after being shipped to the dealer is not
> considered a 100M, but is rather a "Le Mans-modified Healey."
>
> It is worth noting that an unknown number of BN1s were converted to Le Mans
> specs during production and do qualify to be called "Factory-modified" though
> there aren't any written records to validate them, other than the dealer bill
> of sale. It's hard to argue that these BN1s should be called "100Ms" since
> the term wasn't invented until the BN2s were put into production, though that
> is a small point.
>
> Let the flames begin (again).
> Cheers
> Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 20:38:42 EDT
Subject: Re:Glove Box Lock w/ Keys
Hi Steve-
Fortunately I don't need the spare keys. However I'm curious about what would
be the going price for a NOS Glove Box Lock with keys. I checked with several
of the normal suppliers trying to find one for a friend to no avail.
One supplier even stated the last batch being offered for sale when SC made
them was around $500.
On the other hand what would be an asking price for a used "Glove Box Lock w/
Keys" if I should find any? The last price that I saw for a used set was $175.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 20:50:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Glove Box Lock w/ Keys
The easiest way to remedy this problem is to first try to find a key with the
same number as the lock. Not as impossible as it sounds. Secondly, get a key for
another glove box lock (same vintage) and have the pins in the lock changed by a
locksmith so that it will work.. The best source I know of for keys is Jamie
Coobatis in Michigan. email: Coobatis@aol.com. Send him a key number. He
probably
has one.
Bob Denton
MBran89793@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Steve-
>
> Fortunately I don't need the spare keys. However I'm curious about what would
> be the going price for a NOS Glove Box Lock with keys. I checked with several
> of the normal suppliers trying to find one for a friend to no avail.
>
> One supplier even stated the last batch being offered for sale when SC made
> them was around $500.
>
> On the other hand what would be an asking price for a used "Glove Box Lock w/
> Keys" if I should find any? The last price that I saw for a used set was $175.
>
> Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
> Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
> Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 21:20:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Re:Glove Box Lock w/ Keys
Hi, Marion -
I haven't seen any NOS glove box locks with keys, so I don't have a clue what
the asking price would be. The vendor I was referring to had a bunch of
ignition lock cylinders with keys in them. I didn't look at them all, but I
did remember the key with FS.914 stamped on it and recognized it as a BJ8 key.
I'll be seeing the vendor around again in a few more weeks, I'm sure, so I'll
see if I can find out some prices.
If new ones are not available from any of the usual suppliers, then I would
suspect that the price for NOS would be what the market would bear.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: MBran89793@aol.com
To: byers@cconnect.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 8:38 PM
Subject: Re:Glove Box Lock w/ Keys
Hi Steve-
Fortunately I don't need the spare keys. However I'm curious about what
would
be the going price for a NOS Glove Box Lock with keys. I checked with
several
of the normal suppliers trying to find one for a friend to no avail.
One supplier even stated the last batch being offered for sale when SC made
them was around $500.
On the other hand what would be an asking price for a used "Glove Box Lock
w/
Keys" if I should find any? The last price that I saw for a used set was
$175.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 23:18:13 -0400
Subject: Healey on Hormel?
A couple days ago I was having a conversation with my daughter and there was a
Hormel commercial on. I happen to glance at the tube and I think I caught a
glimpse of a big Healey. Not really sure. Has anyone else seen the
commercial I am talking about?
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 23:26:28 -0400
Subject: sheet metal
Mark,
Any sheetmetal made for healeys (repair pieces) has to be hand made or
formed and hand finished. repair sections for MG, Triumph, are usually made
cheaply and I don't mean cost. Cost is kept cheap by using cheap labor and
cheaper sheetmetal. Heritage sheetmetal is the closest thing going to an
orig part.However different sheetmetal is being used for the stamping and
the orig molds are getting played out. Ive had many headaches using these
new fenders and repair panels. Manytimes resorting to locating orig parts,
cutting what I need out of them or using them as total replacements. Dont
forget that on line fenders were used on a go / no go basis. Even brand new
at the time there were differences!
My suggestion is to use vintage engineering. Everetts work is like jewelry
and very easy to work with any panels you have to entirely replace use orig
used stuff.
Good luck and my best advise is PATIENCE it always pays off along with good
advice
Reguards, Carroll Phillips
Top Down Restorations Inc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 20:46:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Sheet Metal, Frame parts
WRT:
> I LOVE MY HEALEY , but what its doing to the budget is unlike any other
> affordable English car I have ever restored.
>
> BRING YOUR PRICES DOWN MR. VENDOR!
>
Talked to a local British parts vendor I just discovered today. He gave a
somewhat different
perspective:
People want CHEAP, and Moss and others try to provide it. He gave as example a
genuine
Healey bumper that he had in his shop for years @ $159. He said every time
someone
enquired about it the answer was a variation of "Moss has them for $99!!!" Of
course, the
bumper Moss was selling for $99 was a repro made in Taiwan -- thin metal, sharp
edges and
lousy chrome. He finally sold the bumper to a guy who knew the difference, and
was more
than willing to pay the extra $60. This vendor has been selling parts -- new
and used -- for
20 years. I got the feeling he may not be doing it too much longer.
I'd like to get my parts at a fair price, but remember whenever we demand
cheap, there
will be someone there to provide cheap. Let's demand quality, and be willing
to pay a
reasonable price for it. I don't think too many people are getting filthy rich
on selling
LBC parts, some of them at least must be doing it for love of the cars, too.
Let's
support them best we can. I'm not saying cost shouldn't be a factor, just that
it shouldn't
be the only one.
Off the soap box now.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 11:09 AM
Subject: Sheet Metal, Frame parts
>
> Listers,
> Not to beat a dead horse, but I didn't get much feed back last time.
> As we all know quality and prices on Healey metal products varies
> drastically from one vender to another.
> So far I have gathered this information;
>
> 1) Stick with one MANUFACTURE to make sure all pieces fit properly.
>
> 2) Kilmartin is good quality, but very expensive. (British Car Specialists)
>
> 3) SC, Austin Healey Spares, and some Kilmartin metal available. ( Moss)
> Don't know what your getting unless you ask and your salesmen is in a
> good
> mood that day.
>
> 4) Good quality and easy to deal with. Manufactures the parts to order,
> Vintage Automotive Engineering)
>
> 5) What ever the flavor of the month is. Last time I tried to get some
> technical help
> on Wire Wheels I was told that there wasn't any help available.Nobody
> knew what the brand of wire wheels were that they carried.
> Seems that the only people to talk to there are the sales people. Please
> let me know if this has changed. (Victoria British)
>
> 6) Not much info. on them. (Classic Collectibles Co.)
>
> Please feel free to correct any of the above information.
>
> My last and final question to those of you that have redone floors, sills,
> shut and hinge pillars, outriggers,etc. Do I have to buy all Kilmartin
> products or can I go with another less expensive manufacture and achieve the
> same results. What area can I do this in.
>
> I am in the process of purchasing Kilmartin sills,and shut plates from
> British Car Specialist. That purchase alone cost me $288.00 and I still
> have the rest to go, not to mention hiring out my welding. Big bite in the
> budget. (ouch) Sorry David but your prices are out of touch for this
> Healey owner.
>
> Please send your experiences off the list or on. Maybe a little feed back
> will help bring at least some of these prices down and maybe not. Who
> knows? Last I checked these parts aren't made out of unobtainium yet. Why
> the big mark up on Healey stuff? I don't see this happening with MGB and
> MGA parts. The A's and 3000 even went down the same assembly line for
> awhile so probably used the same quality of parts when they started in this
> world,. What changed?
>
> I LOVE MY HEALEY , but what its doing to the budget is unlike any other
> affordable English car I have ever restored.
>
> BRING YOUR PRICES DOWN MR. VENDOR!
>
> Make this an enjoyable hobby for the young and the rich.
>
> Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 21:04:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Sheet Metal, Frame parts
Bob -
I'd like to echo your comment here. I bought I rear
bumper for my BJ8 from moss for $99 and have regretted
it ever since. I can litterally grab the side with my
hand and pull it up until it collapses/folds, the
metal is so thin. I'm keeping it on the car for now
as it's a low priority change for me, but I don't
relish being rear ended as the bumper will likely
collapse and cause excessive damage to my car.
As a side note to what a piece of crap this MOSS
bumper is, the license plate mounts (on the inside)
were supplied with METRIC nuts welded to the bumper
bracket. I can't even take them off and replace them
with proper Standard nuts!!!
Thankfully, I put my old bumper (which was slightly
damaged in a rear ender) in storage to be rechromed
and beat back into shape when I was ready to do it
right. The moss bumper will eventually be chucked
outright, or sold on Ebay to some other sucker! Just
kidding... ;-)
Apologies to the garages/Moss suppliers out there that
post regularly and I have respect for, but this is a
pretty basic screw up by Moss.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
> WRT:
>
> > I LOVE MY HEALEY , but what its doing to the
> budget is unlike any other
> > affordable English car I have ever restored.
> >
> > BRING YOUR PRICES
> DOWN MR. VENDOR!
> >
>
> Talked to a local British parts vendor I just
> discovered today. He gave a somewhat different
> perspective:
>
> People want CHEAP, and Moss and others try to
> provide it. He gave as example a genuine
> Healey bumper that he had in his shop for years @
> $159. He said every time someone
> enquired about it the answer was a variation of
> "Moss has them for $99!!!" Of course, the
> bumper Moss was selling for $99 was a repro made in
> Taiwan -- thin metal, sharp edges and
> lousy chrome. He finally sold the bumper to a guy
> who knew the difference, and was more
> than willing to pay the extra $60. This vendor has
> been selling parts -- new and used -- for
> 20 years. I got the feeling he may not be doing it
> too much longer.
>
> I'd like to get my parts at a fair price, but
> remember whenever we demand cheap, there
> will be someone there to provide cheap. Let's
> demand quality, and be willing to pay a
> reasonable price for it. I don't think too many
> people are getting filthy rich on selling
> LBC parts, some of them at least must be doing it
> for love of the cars, too. Let's
> support them best we can. I'm not saying cost
> shouldn't be a factor, just that it shouldn't
> be the only one.
>
> Off the soap box now.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.
> robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)
> `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 18:20:22 +1000
Subject: Re: Rich running
Thanks for your reply Bob.
> What doesn't "jive" is the fact you get a richer mixture by turning the
slow-run screws down.
> The slow run screws allow mixture to bypass the throttle plates and
shouldn't affect mixture.
> How have you determined that the mixture is too rich?
>
When turned down the engine runs so rich as to blacken the exhaust, you can
smell fuel in the exhaust and extrememly embarassing backfiring .
The backfiring and popping was the main reason for trying to find a
solution. This could be reduced by maintaining a very very slight throttle
opening when engine braking which would indicate that slightly more air
passing the throttles meant fuel being burned.
Today I did a 200 mile round trip to Queensland's biggest sportscar display
day (sunny 77F - just perfect) and the car ran perfectly, good throttle
response, smooth running, pulling strongly. It's just the fast idle that
slightly detracts from the city driving part.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 18:29:40 +1000
Subject: Re: Rich running
Thanks for accepting the challenge David
> Firstly, let's forget about the slow running screws. Your motor only runs
> normally with the mixture screws fully backed off. I assume that you mean
> fully unscrewed ie. jet in highest position ie. weakest setting.
Backed off 'til they fell out.
>
> The mean position for HD6 jets is about 1.5mm ie. 60 thou down from the
> bridge. If you require the jets to be significantly weaker then there is
> something else wrong. You do have the correct jets? Ie. 0.100" not 0.125"?
> Jets not damaged or drilled out by someone else (PO)?
I have owned the car for the past 7 years and this problem has only appeared
recently.
>
> Presumably your air cleaners are clean? Presumably you have the correct
> needle? And that it is in its correct position? Also can we presume that
the
> needle is not damaged or excessively worn?
Before trying to mess with the settings I washed and reoiled the cleaners.
My suspicion is that the needles or jets are worn.
>
> Then the problem lies elsewhere. Have you checked your floats? Not
punctured?
> Set to the correct level (7/16" rod passes under float arm)? Needle valves
> not damaged?
The floats appear to be ok as with ignition on the fuel pump stops pumping
once the float bowls filter etc are filled, and no overflow via the jets.
>
> Has this condition just started? Or have you just bought the car/carbs? Or
> has it been laid up?
>
> Please give us more information. We like a challenge.
>
> Regards,
>
> David,
> UK.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 11:40:50 +0200
Subject: Healey 100 model 1:8 HTF-100
Just to share the information.
>From an article in the "revcounter", May 2001. There is a very, very
detailed Healey 100 model from Triple M models available. To see more
visit http://www.adam.com.au/htf/htf.htm.
No personal connection just very impressed by the work Mr. John
Shinton did (and sorry for not having the money to order one <g>).
Cheers
Martin
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 12:33:30 +0100
Subject: Three rotor arms in 300 miles - is this just bad luck??
My BJ8 - with original distributor - is eating rotor arms. ListQuest
does not seem to be pointing at a single fault causing this, so I'm
asking for help.
Three rotor arms from three different sources have failed in about 300
miles, the last one after just 80 miles of service.
The arm does not exhibit a visible crack. In each case it has flashed
through the plastic to the distributor spindle, as witnessed by a
'blister' about 1-1.5mm across on the underside of the arm, on the face
of the recess that takes the spindle (nothing visible from above),
accompanied by a smell of burnt plastic.
The blister is not always in the same spot, which blows out any theory
about a burr on the spindle precipitating the problem. The top of the
spindle is not damaged, but feels slightly rough rather than polished
smooth.
There is some surface oil in the socket under the arm when I remove it
(presumably coming up the spindle shaft), but I would not expect this to
cause the problem.
My theories are:
1. Sheer bad luck
2. Centre contact not making good contact with the arm, resulting in
sparking and excessive temperature in the arm itself.
3. A spark plug or lead functioning badly, which might pass some sort of
electrical stress back to the distributor.
4. Distributor bearing running excessively hot, weakening the plastic's
dielectric capability.
Can anyone give me any guidance on this , before I place a bulk order
for rotor arms! Carrying one spare is just not enough these days!
Any help gratefully received and much appreciated.
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:20:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Three rotor arms in 300 miles - is this just bad luck??
Hi, Alan -
This may not be your problem, but it was mine. I broke three rotor arms in
quick succession before I figured out what was going on.
The distributor shaft may be worn, allowing the rotor arm to actually make
contact with the cap terminals. It doesn't take much of this to crack the
rotor arm, and the cracks can be quite tight and hard to see.
My distributor shaft had noticeable play side to side. How much is too
much? I don't know, but you might check your shaft and see how much it
moves.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 7:33 AM
Subject: Three rotor arms in 300 miles - is this just bad luck??
>
> My BJ8 - with original distributor - is eating rotor arms. ListQuest
> does not seem to be pointing at a single fault causing this, so I'm
> asking for help.
>
> Three rotor arms from three different sources have failed in about 300
> miles, the last one after just 80 miles of service.
>
> The arm does not exhibit a visible crack. In each case it has flashed
> through the plastic to the distributor spindle, as witnessed by a
> 'blister' about 1-1.5mm across on the underside of the arm, on the face
> of the recess that takes the spindle (nothing visible from above),
> accompanied by a smell of burnt plastic.
>
> The blister is not always in the same spot, which blows out any theory
> about a burr on the spindle precipitating the problem. The top of the
> spindle is not damaged, but feels slightly rough rather than polished
> smooth.
>
> There is some surface oil in the socket under the arm when I remove it
> (presumably coming up the spindle shaft), but I would not expect this to
> cause the problem.
>
> My theories are:
> 1. Sheer bad luck
> 2. Centre contact not making good contact with the arm, resulting in
> sparking and excessive temperature in the arm itself.
> 3. A spark plug or lead functioning badly, which might pass some sort of
> electrical stress back to the distributor.
> 4. Distributor bearing running excessively hot, weakening the plastic's
> dielectric capability.
>
> Can anyone give me any guidance on this , before I place a bulk order
> for rotor arms! Carrying one spare is just not enough these days!
>
> Any help gratefully received and much appreciated.
> Alan F Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
> H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
> See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
> http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 05:43:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Editorgary: Recovery in Progress
Hi Team,
You may have noticed a lack of messages from "Editorgary" (Gary Anderson)
lately. There's a very good reason for that. He has been in the hospital
and has undergone four operations for an infected tibia. He could have lost
his leg. He went in on April 14 (or so, I believe), so it has been about a
month now.
However, the good news is that they caught it in time to save the leg, and
he's now home and beginning what promises to be a somewhat lengthy recovery.
I just got an update from him:
<< Thanks for the note -- the doctors will only prognosticate one step at a
time. I'm now back to a reasonable energy level (only two naps a day) after
the fourth surgery and the muscle transplant/skin graft seems to be healing
nicely. So I should start physical therapy next week. Then they're
promising
four to six weeks to regaining most functions -- but boy am I going to have
some ugly scars and lumps on my leg! Also don't know when I'll be mobile
outside the home/office >>
Since Gary has long been one of the very most active and helpful members of
this list, I thought you'd like to know, and that you might want to offer a
few words of encouragement for a speedy and complete recovery.
(I don't presume to speak for Gary, but my impression is that it would be
better if you didn't send messages that ask for a response just yet.
Between his recovery and getting out the next issue of his magazine, British
Car, I'm sure he has his hands full.)
His email: Editorgary@aol.com
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:11:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Sheet Metal, Frame parts
> Seems that the only people to talk to there are the sales people.
Please
> let me know if this has changed. (Victoria British) Personal opinion
avoid them if possible ....if not possible then fax information requests to
them and as detailed questions , it is the only way you will get answers it
takes about 3 days or so to get an answer.
>
> 6) Not much info. on them. (Classic Collectibles Co.)........ Great
person to deal with . will give information needed and the parts fit , the
parts have nice features to them makes the parts easier to install for us
who don't do this everyday However they do not have as many parts as some
others.
> I would love the prices on replacement parts to come down but you are
missing something in your logic. MG's and Triumphs ect were produced on a
scale and sold on a scale that Austin Healey never obtained. Therefore the
number of cars on the road new and able to be restored is limited and
caused the demand for parts to be limited. Therefore there is a small market
for repair parts and when the costs * price of tooling and design dies ect.
are figured by the number of pieces the costs are high. Personally I think
the qualilty of the parts is more of a problem than the price I would rather
pay a little more and get higher grade materials than pay these prices and
get cr*p like we are getting now. BTW have you looked at the value of your
healey lately ? A basket case sells for more than a than a real nice MGB
Driver and Restored sells for about 40% or more than a restored MGA . But
yes there are dealers (OTL) who sell parts for for way to much $ 35 for a
thermostat when the Exact same Item is available at autozone same mfg, and
part number for $ 6. With the blanking rim which is surposed to be
available no where else.... But thats why you have to shop and compare. Off
soap box .....Robert
> Please feel free to correct any of the above information.
>
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 1:09 PM
Subject: Sheet Metal, Frame parts
>
> Listers,
> Not to beat a dead horse, but I didn't get much feed back last
time.
> As we all know quality and prices on Healey metal products varies
> drastically from one vender to another.
> So far I have gathered this information;
>
> 1) Stick with one MANUFACTURE to make sure all pieces fit properly.
>
> 2) Kilmartin is good quality, but very expensive. (British Car
Specialists)
>
> 3) SC, Austin Healey Spares, and some Kilmartin metal available. ( Moss)
> Don't know what your getting unless you ask and your salesmen is in a
> good
> mood that day.
>
> 4) Good quality and easy to deal with. Manufactures the parts to order,
> Vintage Automotive Engineering)
>
> 5) What ever the flavor of the month is. Last time I tried to get some
> technical help
> on Wire Wheels I was told that there wasn't any help available.Nobody
> knew what the brand of wire wheels were that they carried.
> Seems that the only people to talk to there are the sales people.
Please
> let me know if this has changed. (Victoria British)
>
> 6) Not much info. on them. (Classic Collectibles Co.)
>
> Please feel free to correct any of the above information.
>
> My last and final question to those of you that have redone floors, sills,
> shut and hinge pillars, outriggers,etc. Do I have to buy all Kilmartin
> products or can I go with another less expensive manufacture and achieve
the
> same results. What area can I do this in.
>
> I am in the process of purchasing Kilmartin sills,and shut plates from
> British Car Specialist. That purchase alone cost me $288.00 and I still
> have the rest to go, not to mention hiring out my welding. Big bite in
the
> budget. (ouch) Sorry David but your prices are out of touch for this
> Healey owner.
>
> Please send your experiences off the list or on. Maybe a little feed back
> will help bring at least some of these prices down and maybe not. Who
> knows? Last I checked these parts aren't made out of unobtainium yet.
Why
> the big mark up on Healey stuff? I don't see this happening with MGB and
> MGA parts. The A's and 3000 even went down the same assembly line for
> awhile so probably used the same quality of parts when they started in
this
> world,. What changed?
>
> I LOVE MY HEALEY , but what its doing to the budget is unlike any other
> affordable English car I have ever restored.
>
> BRING YOUR PRICES DOWN MR. VENDOR!
>
> Make this an enjoyable hobby for the young and the rich.
>
> Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 09:36:23 -0500
Subject: Bugeye stuff
Anyone have any seat track hardware for a Bugeye lying around. I have
all the right seat stuff and most of the left seat parts. I do need the
adjusting handle and the right side (still driver's seat) track. These
are the parts that are probably still riveted to the hoop. Any help
would be appreciated. Thanks!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 11:40:36 -0400
Subject: sheet metal
I bought a car so rough, it had perforation on all of the panels;
heeding Mike Salter's advice, I set out to buy all original Healey
panels. I was able to get unrepaired, mint panels for all corners, I
still need a better trunk lid. and the door frames need new bottoms;
I have not seen very many pristine doors, and of course my body man
will have to fit all this stuff together, but I will be saving him a
lot of patching work, and probably saving money in the long run. If
I do have to buy sills or door shut panels I would also go with
Vintage Engineering or Kilmartin or Healey Surgeon's (nobody mentions
them -I heard the're good)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 09:27:53 -0700
Subject: Differential Clunk
I can't believe it. The Healey seemed to be running great. I was over at
Santa Cruz, at a stop light. I put it into gear and it went clunk. I can
shift but the differential does not turn the rear wheels. There was no real
warning and the differential was not making any unusual noise.
Any thought as to what I will find when I pull the pumpkin?
Thanks in advance
John
'62 BT7 MK II Tricarb named Nemesis
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 09:33:59 -0700
Subject: email address needed
Sorry to blast the list.
Does anyone have the email address for Mark Lempert.
Thanks
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 13:00:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Differential Clunk
Hi, John -
Is the driveshaft turning when the differential is not turning the rear
wheels?
If it was a spridget, I would say you have broken a rear axle, which is a
common occurrence on those cars. For a Big Healey, I don't think it's
common, but possible. You would have to pull the axles to remove the
pumpkin anyway, so if a broken axle is the problem you will find out soon
enough.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@infoasis.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 12:27 PM
Subject: Differential Clunk
>
> I can't believe it. The Healey seemed to be running great. I was over at
> Santa Cruz, at a stop light. I put it into gear and it went clunk. I can
> shift but the differential does not turn the rear wheels. There was no
real
> warning and the differential was not making any unusual noise.
>
> Any thought as to what I will find when I pull the pumpkin?
>
> Thanks in advance
> John
> '62 BT7 MK II Tricarb named Nemesis
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 12:48:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Rich running
>From a non-expert but from experience, I offer the following:
I have not seen it mentioned in this thread, but before ever touching the
carburetors, everything else must be correct. Head must be torqued
correctly, valves must be adjusted correctly, compression must be within
limits, spark plugs clean and properly gapped, points cleaned or points and
condenser replaced, dwell adjusted, vacuum and mechanical advance checked,
and timing set.
After spending most of a day trying to adjust carburetors, I went back to
basics and found a couple of valves with improper clearances. Once those
were corrected, the carburetors were easily adjusted within minutes.
Len.
1967 3000 MkIII
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
To: "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0@attglobal.net>; <DavidNLonsdale@aol.com>;
"Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 1:29 AM
Subject: Re: Rich running
>
> Thanks for accepting the challenge David
>
> > Firstly, let's forget about the slow running screws. Your motor only
runs
> > normally with the mixture screws fully backed off. I assume that you
mean
> > fully unscrewed ie. jet in highest position ie. weakest setting.
>
> Backed off 'til they fell out.
>
> >
> > The mean position for HD6 jets is about 1.5mm ie. 60 thou down from the
> > bridge. If you require the jets to be significantly weaker then there is
> > something else wrong. You do have the correct jets? Ie. 0.100" not
0.125"?
> > Jets not damaged or drilled out by someone else (PO)?
>
> I have owned the car for the past 7 years and this problem has only
appeared
> recently.
>
> >
> > Presumably your air cleaners are clean? Presumably you have the correct
> > needle? And that it is in its correct position? Also can we presume that
> the
> > needle is not damaged or excessively worn?
>
> Before trying to mess with the settings I washed and reoiled the cleaners.
> My suspicion is that the needles or jets are worn.
>
> >
> > Then the problem lies elsewhere. Have you checked your floats? Not
> punctured?
> > Set to the correct level (7/16" rod passes under float arm)? Needle
valves
> > not damaged?
>
> The floats appear to be ok as with ignition on the fuel pump stops pumping
> once the float bowls filter etc are filled, and no overflow via the jets.
>
> >
> > Has this condition just started? Or have you just bought the car/carbs?
Or
> > has it been laid up?
> >
> > Please give us more information. We like a challenge.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > David,
> > UK.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 17:45:58 EDT
Subject: Windscreens
Hi all,
I guess I am going to have to replace the windscreen on my BN4. Recently it
started a stress crack and after 25 years, I can't complain. My question is
one that was just on the site about the price and value of our replacement
parts. Healey Surgeons lists one at $220 and Moss at $189. Is there a
difference? Is one better than another? Is Inan worth an extra $31? Since
I will hopefully live another 25 years, I want the best one without getting
taken.
Comments?
Rudy Streng in NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RCT2BNC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 19:18:45 EDT
Subject: fuel line routing
Need some help.
I have a BN7 that needed new fuel lines. I do not have template from old ones
as the PO decided to cut each end and resort to rubber!!!
I need routing directions from the carbs back to the fuel pump. I can follow
the fuel line clips along the inside of the left frame member back to the
read X-member...where do I go from here? Up through the small opening in the
frame? Past that and up and over elsewhere?
Any help would be appreciated. Obviously the PO had no clue.
Thanks
Ben Cohen
Tucson
BJ8, BN7, AN5, AN5, Mini Cooper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 19:58:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Windscreens
In a message dated 5/13/01 5:48:59 PM, CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
<<Hi all,
I guess I am going to have to replace the windscreen on my BN4. Recently it
started a stress crack and after 25 years, I can't complain. My question is
one that was just on the site about the price and value of our replacement
parts. Healey Surgeons lists one at $220 and Moss at $189. Is there a
difference? Is one better than another? Is Inan worth an extra $31? Since
I will hopefully live another 25 years, I want the best one without getting
taken.
Comments?
Rudy Streng in NC
>>
Rudy,
I don't know about the difference between the glass that Moss and Inan carry,
but I
do know different manufacturers do make windscreens. I have a South African
example in my BJ7, while concours types might want to spring for genuine
TripleX
Regards
Rick Neville
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 17:30:07 -0700
Subject: Differential - problem found
Hi all,
The axle's are not broke.
There were four chipped teeth on the pinon. I found two of the larger
chipped teeth, the others must have been ground up.
The pinon pin was broken in half, the pinon axle peg was bent in a an 'L'
shape and the carrier is cracked where the peg went into it with part of
the case broken out too. I found that also. The ring gear looks OK with one
of the teeth having a small gouge on it. I don't suppose it should be reused.
I can not figure out what happened. The differential was very quite and did
not sound or act bad. The problem was preceded by a very faint click, less
noisy than the fuel pump.
Rebuilding the pumpkin appears to be an expensive proposition, yet I would
hate to buy a used one only to find out it is noisy.
Any suggestions?
John
'62 BT7 MK II Tricarb, aptly named Nemesis
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 20:09:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Windscreens
Hi Rudy
Well there are other sources, you might try Steve Jowett,
UKHealey Centre, a BN4 windscreen is listed at 72 UKP which
converts to 102 USA dollars. Then the question arises to
shipping, here I'd consider by surface (sea freight) which you or
a UK supplier could determine, surely it would be less than
$85US. To check out Steve Jowett's web site
http://www.ukhealey.co.uk or Steve Jowett
<enquiries@ukhealey.co.uk
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
P.S. The great white north was +29C today, a non-healey driving
day!
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> I guess I am going to have to replace the windscreen on my BN4. Recently it
> started a stress crack and after 25 years, I can't complain. My question is
> one that was just on the site about the price and value of our replacement
> parts. Healey Surgeons lists one at $220 and Moss at $189. Is there a
> difference? Is one better than another? Is Inan worth an extra $31? Since
> I will hopefully live another 25 years, I want the best one without getting
> taken.
> Comments?
> Rudy Streng in NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 19:39:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Windscreens
I just ordered a LH window for my BJ8 from the UK to
Hong Kong. Shipping was approximately 80% of the cost
of the window itself - I was charged a 25 pound
crating charge (I think a fair price - nice box!) and
the rest was shipping. Still a bargain, but I think
the prices in the US might include the crating charge,
whereas you order from the UK and it's a seperate
charge.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>
> Hi Rudy
>
> Well there are other sources, you might try Steve
> Jowett,
> UKHealey Centre, a BN4 windscreen is listed at 72
> UKP which
> converts to 102 USA dollars. Then the question
> arises to
> shipping, here I'd consider by surface (sea freight)
> which you or
> a UK supplier could determine, surely it would be
> less than
> $85US. To check out Steve Jowett's web site
> http://www.ukhealey.co.uk or Steve Jowett
> <enquiries@ukhealey.co.uk
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
>
> P.S. The great white north was +29C today, a
> non-healey driving
> day!
>
>
> CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I guess I am going to have to replace the
> windscreen on my BN4. Recently it
> > started a stress crack and after 25 years, I can't
> complain. My question is
> > one that was just on the site about the price and
> value of our replacement
> > parts. Healey Surgeons lists one at $220 and Moss
> at $189. Is there a
> > difference? Is one better than another? Is Inan
> worth an extra $31? Since
> > I will hopefully live another 25 years, I want the
> best one without getting
> > taken.
> > Comments?
> > Rudy Streng in NC
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 13:02:59 +1000
Subject: Re: Windscreens
In Australia I found that I could get a screen for my BN4 from any of my
local everyday windscreen suppliers. It may be worth a try to contact some
in your area.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
>
> Hi all,
> I guess I am going to have to replace the windscreen on my BN4. Recently
it
> started a stress crack and after 25 years, I can't complain. My question
is
> one that was just on the site about the price and value of our replacement
> parts. Healey Surgeons lists one at $220 and Moss at $189. Is there a
> difference? Is one better than another? Is Inan worth an extra $31?
Since
> I will hopefully live another 25 years, I want the best one without
getting
> taken.
> Comments?
> Rudy Streng in NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 23:55:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Re(2): 1955 Healey 100M
In a message dated 5/13/01 12:37:59 AM, bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
<< Gary writes:
"and can be confirmed by the Heritage Trust certificate"
The only indication on the BMIHT certificate, I believe, was "fitted with
louvered bonnet,"
or something similar.
Bob >>
When I received the certificate on the 100M I restored, it said "records show
this car was fitted with a louvered bonnet, indicating that it is a factory
100M." or something very close to that. You're quite right that the only
indication on the build records was the Jensen-fitted louvered bonnet, and
there is, of course, the possibility that someone might have ordered just
that option, but we haven't yet found one.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 09:39:23 +0100
Subject: Re: 1955 Healey 100M
Gary
Just for the record, Geoff Healey said that a louvered bonnet was not
total proof that the car was a 100M and similarly that lack of it did
not prove the opposite. It was Anders Clausager I believe that made this
assumption without presumably confirming this with Geoff Healey.
>
>When I received the certificate on the 100M I restored, it said "records show
>this car was fitted with a louvered bonnet, indicating that it is a factory
>100M." or something very close to that. You're quite right that the only
>indication on the build records was the Jensen-fitted louvered bonnet, and
>there is, of course, the possibility that someone might have ordered just
>that option, but we haven't yet found one.
Are :- But would anybody admit to this?!
All the best
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Malcolm Bruce" <malcolm at procurcorp.com>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 08:32:41 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ7 rear seats
Thanks to all who responded on the rear seats, mystery solved.
Mal
-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
To: malcolm@procurcorp.com <malcolm@procurcorp.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, May 11, 2001 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: BJ7 rear seats
In a message dated 5/11/01 9:18:07 AM, malcolm@procurcorp.com writes:
<<I just removed the original seats from a BJ7 purchased last month and have
several questions:
2. The rear seats are vinyl. There is no evidence of them ever being apart
before, original horse hair [think thats what it is] and cotton filler.
Weren't rear seats prior to BJ8s supposed to be leather?
My original BJ7 rear seats were exactly the same. According to Gary &
Roger's Restoration Guide, p. 147, leather was found only on the front of
the
seat back, the seat cushions, and the top of the armrest. Everything else
was "leathercloth"
Happy Healeying,
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 07:10:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Differential - problem found
Hi John:
Replacing the pumpkin is not too expensive. If you buy just the pumpkin you
can inspect the gears. That will lower your risk. All the pumpkins for the
BN2's thru BJ8's are interchangeable. The later gears are 3.90 and give
approximately an additional 5 MPH at speed. IMO, this is a good way to go.
Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@infoasis.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 5:30 PM
Subject: Differential - problem found
>
> Hi all,
>
> The axle's are not broke.
> There were four chipped teeth on the pinon. I found two of the larger
> chipped teeth, the others must have been ground up.
> The pinon pin was broken in half, the pinon axle peg was bent in a an 'L'
> shape and the carrier is cracked where the peg went into it with part of
> the case broken out too. I found that also. The ring gear looks OK with
one
> of the teeth having a small gouge on it. I don't suppose it should be
reused.
> I can not figure out what happened. The differential was very quite and
did
> not sound or act bad. The problem was preceded by a very faint click, less
> noisy than the fuel pump.
>
> Rebuilding the pumpkin appears to be an expensive proposition, yet I would
> hate to buy a used one only to find out it is noisy.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> John
> '62 BT7 MK II Tricarb, aptly named Nemesis
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 10:59:46 -0700
Subject: RE: Sheet Metal, Frame parts
for wire wheels, go to British Wire Wheel. http://www.britishwirewheel.com/
They have always given good service to me over the long haul.
For Kilmartin's stuff in quantity, you might try them direct.
kilmartinj@primus.com.au Larry Varley's site has their catalog.
The exchange rate is probably very favorable.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 13:02:41 -0600
Subject: Wiring harness wrap
Listers,
Doe's anyone know if new black and yellow harness wrap is available. My
harnesses look fine they are just dirty and greasy.
Sid, bj8 Boise, ID
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Todd S Taylor <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 16:15:24 -0400
Subject: for sale !
This was an ad in our Sunday paper, I don't have any interest or know
anything about this car....I just thought I'd past this along
This is in central New York State...
67 healey 3000 mk3, new brakes, rims, tires, runs great $16,000 call
315-492-3184
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 16:22:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Wiring harness wrap
Sid asked: <snip>
> Doe's anyone know if new black and yellow harness wrap is available. My
> harnesses look fine they are just dirty and greasy. (BJ8)
Well, to begin with, BJ8 harnesses are not just black and yellow. Different
sections contain different coding colours. But to answer your question, I
know of folks who sent their entire harnesses to Rhode Island Wire Service
to have them checked out and rewrapped with as-original covering. Not cheap
though.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Raymond" <mjr1414 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 19:34:20 -0400
Subject: Radio BJ8
I would like to put a stereo in my BJ8. I want it to have a classic look
with knobs but have the ability to play cassettes. Where do you find such a
radio and where is the best place to locate it in the car for the best
appearance?
Mike Raymond
HBJ8L/27040
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BigHealey64 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 19:41:49 EDT
Subject: 100-6 for sale
I saw the add in the Boston Globe - '59 100-6. It's being sold by Aston
Martin of New England, who primarily sells Lotus, Aston Martin, Porsche
etc., not many Healeys. As I used to own the same year, I was interested in
seeing the car. I stopped by - it wasn't in the shop, but saw some
photographs.
It looked good in the photos. It was from the "Yankee Candle Museum"
collection - $26,000.
Phone # 617 783 1800
Randy
64 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 23:02:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Glove Box Lock w/ Keys
Hi Steve-
I must be living right or something. After checking with most of the normal
suppliers for a "Glove Box Lock w/ Keys" with no success I tried a source
close to home and found not one but two NOS sets and a used set.
My friend decided that he would purchase the used set (In very good shape)
for $165. He wasn't ready to pay the higher price for an NOS set.
Knowing that these things are made of "unobtanium" I paid a premium price for
the others. I will keep one but I'd like to offer the other set for a good
price before posting the set on Ebay.
If anyone is interested please contact me off line.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 20:24:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Odd fact & Quiz: Glove Box Lock w/ Keys
Was told by Steve Norton at cape-international last
night that the tiny little set screw which holds the
lock barrel to the chrome surround on the FRONT of the
BJ8 glove box is neither "British Standard," "British
Association," "UNF/SAE/AF/Standard," or even "Metric."
Can anyone guess what the standard is? I'll tell if
someone gets it right.
By the way, I actually need that screw, anyone have a
spare?
Thanks!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- MBran89793@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Steve-
>
> I must be living right or something. After checking
> with most of the normal
> suppliers for a "Glove Box Lock w/ Keys" with no
> success I tried a source
> close to home and found not one but two NOS sets and
> a used set.
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 22:51:41 -0600
Subject: Paint formula
Learned ones,
Can anyone tell me the paint formula for healey blue, or where to find it?
Sid, bj8 Boise
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 07:35:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint formula
According to the book "Austin Healey Guide to historic colors" by Donald
Pikovnik,
Ice Blue Metallic - BU.02,
ICI - 2301M,
aka "Healey Blue".
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
bron@rmci.net writes:
> Can anyone tell me the paint formula for healey blue, or where to find it?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 08:32:17 -0400
Subject: Loose steering wheel on a 100
Hi Folks,
I took a friends lovely 55 - 100 for a wonderful drive on the
weekend, but noticed that there was significant play in the steering
wheel. While sitting in the driver's seat I could grasp the steering
wheel at the 12 o'clock position and move it back and forth (moving
the top of the wheel toward the dash then back to me) a significant
amount. This amount of play felt uncomfortable while driving. Any
suggestions as to what may have caused this and how to go about
making it secure again would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 05:43:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Loose steering wheel on a 100
Richard -
two quick things to check:
1. There is an adjustment bolt on top of the steering
box which should tighten things up. I can't recall
exactly how it is set up on the 100, but your manual
should help you understand how it works. I believe
tightening the bolt down will serve to secure the peg
further into the worm, making steering tighter. This
should fix your problem.
2. Check the tie rods on the front of the car. If
there is ANY play in the tie rods, they MUST be
replaced.
If these checks don't fix the problem, you might be in
need of a steering box rebuild.
Of course, you should also check to see that there is
oil/grease in the steering box.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Richard Wegner <rwegner@synapse.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I took a friends lovely 55 - 100 for a wonderful
> drive on the
> weekend, but noticed that there was significant play
> in the steering
> wheel. While sitting in the driver's seat I could
> grasp the steering
> wheel at the 12 o'clock position and move it back
> and forth (moving
> the top of the wheel toward the dash then back to
> me) a significant
> amount. This amount of play felt uncomfortable
> while driving. Any
> suggestions as to what may have caused this and how
> to go about
> making it secure again would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Richard
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 10:11:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Loose steering wheel on a 100
Hi Richard.......on a BJ8, that would be the big nut you see, after
pulling the trafficator; I don't know how different the 100 would be,
but it's probably the same principle.
Stephen, BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 08:17:14 -0600
Subject: driveshaft for supra gearbox conversion
Anybody have a driveshaft for a supra gearbox conversion for a BJ7
ready mady up and for sale?
Thanks
Let me know off-list
Bruce Starke
Golden BC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 10:35:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Loose steering wheel on a 100
Hi Richard,
The fix for the looseness of the wheel on the column depends upon
whether or not the car has an adjustable steering wheel.
If the car has a fixed wheel then it is possible that the nut that holds
it on is loose however this would be unusual. It is also possible that
there is some reason why the wheel is not seating correctly on the
tapered spline. Either way you will need to lift the turn signal switch,
by loosening the nut on the bottom of the stator tube to investigate.
If the car has an adjustable steering wheel the problem is more likely
to be wear of the spline inside the wheel. The effect of this can be
minimized by ensuring that the steering wheel adjustment locking nut is
fully tightened, however this serves only to tighten the lower end of
the spline in the wheel making it possible to still experience the play
that you have noted. If the steering wheel spline is worn and therefore
loose on the column spline I suspect that a replacement wheel and /or
wheel may be to only safe solution. Again, of course, you have to lift
or remove the turn signal switch, by loosening the three screws around
the wheel hub, to investigate.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 08:02:47 -0700
Subject: RE: Radio BJ8
Mike,
For a new radio, look at the street rod scene. They make exactly what you
want. Try Street Rod magazine and Hemmings.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8 with a 1978 Concord radio/cassette (dial, pointer, two knobs)
-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Joseph F. Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 11:29:40 -0400
Subject: Scissors Jacks
I have been through many auto catalogues on the Internet and can not find
a suitable scissors jack for my Healey's. Any leads would be helpful.
Best regards, Joe
55 100
60 3000
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 16:47:08 +0100
Subject: Ignition Teaser
Listers
Took the car out last Friday on a beautiful barmy evening - far too
good to do anything except cruise in the Healey! Sadly, the car
started misfiring after some 8 miles, stopping completely after a
further mile.
I checked the obvious - fuel was getting to the carbs and could be
smelt at the exhaust pipes. (I have a solid state pump which was
ticking away nicely). The battery was brand new (that day), fully
charged and turned the engine over without problem. I then tried my
in-line spark tester - no spark! I normally run a points assisted
electronic ignition (Boyer Bransden) so I disconnected this and
reverted to the standard setup. Still no joy!
Took out my test lead and bulb. There was juice at the coil, the
capacitor was not shorting, the points opened when they should
and there was a bit of sparking when I connected the test lead to
the coil + or - terminals with the points open. I also made sure that
the two flexible wires inside the distributor were not chafed or
broken. I checked inside the distributor cap - no sign of tracking
and the carbon contact was moving freely. Just in case, I expanded
its spring slightly. Incidentally, in case you are wondering, the cut-
out switch in the boot is disconnected on my car!
Finally, just in case, I changed the rotor arm and the capacitor.
Still no joy!
By now, it was dark and I had summoned the recovery truck. He
arrived as I made my last futile attempt, I explained what I had
done and he got a spare plug out, connected number 3 lead to it
and placed the end against the rocker cover nut. I hit the starter -
not only did the spare plug spark, the engine burst into life
immediately! It purred all the way home (3 miles) - neither of us
could explain what had occurred, other than noting that it is easier
to fire a plug that is not under compression in the cylinder.
There are some other facts:
I had a starting problem last year and replaced the coil with a
Lucas Sports coil, regapping the plugs to 40 thou. Subsequently, I
found two of the NGK spark plug connectors to be open circuit and
replaced them.
The Lucas coil measures 3.2 ohm primary, 8.94K ohm secondary.
For comparison, I have a new stock coil that measures 3.6 ohm
primary, 6.46K ohm secondary.
Now, I have some theories as to what the problem might be but I
would welcome any ideas from the list. In particular, what
resistance should these coils be and why did the car suddenly
burst into life when a plug was fired outside of the cylinder?
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 11:55:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Scissors Jacks
In a message dated 5/15/01 8:34:32, healey27@mindspring.com writes:
<<
I have been through many auto catalogues on the Internet and can not find
a suitable scissors jack for my Healey's. Any leads would be helpful.
Best regards, Joe
55 100
60 3000 >>
Being that you are looking for a scissors type jack, originality is no
problem, but what would be suitable? Most thrift stores in my area have, on
occasion, scissors jacks for many different cars for only a few bucks. They
are all small, lightweight and will compress to a size low enough to fit
under most Healeys. Finding a handle to match is the tough part.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 11:22:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Scissors Jacks
Try Wal-Mart. I bought one there for my BJ7. Fully collapsed, it measures about
3" tall. I think it was less than $20.
Regarding the original type jack, I'm told you can't get it under the car if the
tire is flat anyway. There was a tech tip in one of the club publications about
driving up onto a rock to use it!
Allen W.
63 BJ7
60 BT7
"Joseph F. Smathers" wrote:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 12:30:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Odd fact & Quiz: Glove Box Lock w/ Keys
At a guess I would say Unified Miniature Thread.because I thhik it is bigger
than
American Standard Microscope Objective Thread or British Instrument Makers
System but that is just a guess ;-).
I have one but it is in the last of the glove box locks that I have left in
stock
and I suspect that it is too small to measure.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
International Investor wrote:
> Was told by Steve Norton at cape-international last
> night that the tiny little set screw which holds the
> lock barrel to the chrome surround on the FRONT of the
> BJ8 glove box is neither "British Standard," "British
> Association," "UNF/SAE/AF/Standard," or even "Metric."
>
> Can anyone guess what the standard is? I'll tell if
> someone gets it right.
>
> By the way, I actually need that screw, anyone have a
> spare?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Alan
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 11:41:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Scissors Jacks
"Joseph F. Smathers" wrote:
>
> I have been through many auto catalogues on the Internet and can not find
> a suitable scissors jack for my Healey's. Any leads would be helpful.
>
Joe:
You're looking in all the wrong places! :-)
Go find your local foreign car wrecking yard...then look in the trunk of
any of them until you find a bright, shiny, never-been-out-of-the-trunk,
used factory Japanese car scissors jack and handle. Or maybe the yard
has already removed them and has them all in a pile in some corner of
the shop.
Be sure and wear old clothes when you go to the boneyard; and if you can
fake a southern accent, so much the better. If you show up in a suit,
the price will double, at least! Depending on how convincing you are,
you're looking at somewhere between $5 and $25. Just the process of
getting it is half the fun!
Good hunting!
Fred
Don't take
That curve
At 60 per
We hate to lose
A customer
--Burma-Shave--
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 12:49:37 -0400
Subject: Re:100-4 Mirror
In the AHCA calendar the picture for June is a red/black 100-4 having a
driver's side rear view mirror that appears to be mounted or attached to
the side curtain socket. Was this an accessory, and if so where can on be
found? Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 12:52:31 EDT
Subject: Bumper question Thanks
Many thanks to those who responded about my bumper bracket question.
I got responses indicating a difference of 1.25 inches, with my car being at
the long end of the scale, making the Rally Overrider kit from
Cape-International not fit well. I took my brackets to a local welder and had
them lengthened for less than the postage would have been to try to return
them.
The kit is well made with laser cut, jig-welded brackets powder coated black
and new sprite style bumperettes that are not quite as heavy as original but
very nice looking chrome.
Pictures will be uploaded to my site soon.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 12:33:55 -0500
Subject: Fuel Tank Pickup
Last weekend I started the engine of the BJ8 that I bought as a basket
case two years ago. Had some trouble getting fuel to the carbs. Finally,
after blowing compressed air through the fuel tank fitting I managed to
fire it up. Ran great for about 5 seconds then died. Blew air again
through the tank fitting. More gas entered the carb. Started and died.
Enough is enough, so I removed the tank (after draining all the gas)
filled with water and carefully drilled a hole in the top of the
fitting. BTW the fitting is welded to the tank and cannot be removed.
After poking a wire down the tube but finding that it would not go all
the way through there was little left to do but open the tank to see
what the trouble was. After carefully cutting around the fitting and
pulling it out I discover a plastic filter on the end of the pickup
tube. I sloshed tank sealer through the tank a couple years ago to
insure against rust flakes in the carbs. Trouble is, the sealer also
sealed the filter. Compressed air blew the filter apart at a couple
seams but when the gas began flowing it would seal and prevent fuel from
being pumped.
My question is this. If the fitting was welded to the tank at the
factory, how was anyone to examine it when troubled by poor gas flow?
Did they expect the Owner to throw away their tanks and purchase new
ones? Did a PO have the fitting welded to the tank for some reason?
Warning to those that might want to slosh their tank with sealant.
Alan
HBJ8L/34297
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 10:37:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Re:100-4 Mirror
Doug, a number of people have added these mirrors in the side curtain
sockets. They are usually motorcycle mirrors. I have one that is a Harley
knock-off. In my case it fit the hole perfect and has a shoulder so it only
goes down so far. The bends are so well done it looks like it was made for
the car, meaning if you were going make the bends you most likely would have
put them there. All I had to do was trim the threaded end down 1/2 inch (not
nec.) and put on a black plastic wing nut. I could have used just a plain
wing nut but the black one looked better. It works well and it removes with
the twist of a wing nut...simple. If you are showing the car it's pretty
easy to remove it. I only paid about 16 dollars for it. What I like about it
most is it works well and you aren't messing anything up on the car if you
change your mind. They could be put on both sides but I only choose the
drivers...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 9:49 AM
Subject: Re:100-4 Mirror
>
> In the AHCA calendar the picture for June is a red/black 100-4 having a
> driver's side rear view mirror that appears to be mounted or attached to
> the side curtain socket. Was this an accessory, and if so where can on be
> found? Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Henry Shervem <henry at cowlick.vmtrc.ucdavis.edu>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 11:09:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Ignition Teaser
I have a friend with a 66 Ford Thunderbird that has a similar problem.
The car will start well and run well.
He starts the car and takes it out on the road about once each week.
Over the course of several weeks the car gets progressivly more
difficult to start. The engine turns over well and runs well when and
if he can get it started but eventually it will not start.
At this point, if he takes the plugs out of the car, cleans them
slightly (they don't look terribly fouled just a little black soot
on some) and puts them back in the car, it will start up on the
first crank of the engine. The cycle then repeats itself, again
taking several weeks before the car gets to the point that it won't
start.
The engine is a 428 ci with 154,000 miles (I think).
He has replaced the coli and put in electronic ignition but dist. cap
and wires could probably stand to be replaced. Any ideas?
Thanks
henry@vmtrc.ucdavis.edu
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 14:41:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Scissors Jacks
In a message dated 05/15/2001 9:34:19 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
healey27@mindspring.com writes:
<< I have been through many auto catalogues on the Internet and can not find
a suitable scissors jack for my Healey's. Any leads would be helpful. >>
Any Auto junk or wrecking yard. Any inespensive Jap car jack. I got my last
two in mint condition for $5.00 each last summer.
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 14:46:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Scissors Jacks
We have scissors type jack that work very well on a Healey see articles in
both Healey magazines Austin Healey magazine February 2001 pg 19 and
Healey Marque March 2001 pg7
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 14:49:40 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-4 Mirror
In a message dated 05/15/2001 10:55:26 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
dwflagg@juno.com writes:
<< 100-4 having a
driver's side rear view mirror that appears to be mounted or attached to
the side curtain socket. Was this an accessory, and if so where can on be
found? Thanks. >>
I got standard Harley Davidson Mirrors in rectangular shape. The slide right
in and take the Side curtain nut! I use a rubber washer to protect the
chrome and it also keeps the mirror from rotating. You can just cut an old
tire (tyre for British cars) for the washer. Actually, Many Harley riders
replace thier mirrors and have the standard ones on a shelf in their garage.
I mentioned to one that I saw at a restaurant that I was looking for some and
where would he recommend that I purchase them. He said he would give me his
old ones...Those Harley guys are just Healey guys on two wheels!!!
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Judd" <bobjudd at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 12:21:21 -0700
Subject: RE: Fuel Tank Pickup
Alan,
You might also check the fuel line. When I
bought mine, it had been is storage for 20 years and, like yours, would run for
awhile and die. Usually in an intersection. Changed the fuel pump,
restored the gas tank. And then found the problem was the fuel line was
completely filled with compacted pellets of rust and gunk. Fuel could
filter through slowly, but not fast enough to feed a running engine.
Cheers, Bob Judd BN2-V8
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Schultz
To: healeys
Sent: 5/15/01 10:33:55 AM
Subject: Fuel Tank Pickup
Last weekend I started the engine of the BJ8 that I bought as a
basket
case two years ago. Had some trouble getting fuel to the carbs.
Finally,
after blowing compressed air through the fuel tank fitting I managed
to
fire it up. Ran great for about 5 seconds then died. Blew air again
through the tank fitting. More gas entered the carb. Started and
died.
Enough is enough, so I removed the tank (after draining all the gas)
filled with water and carefully drilled a hole in the top of the
fitting. BTW the fitting is welded to the tank and cannot be removed.
After poking a wire down the tube but finding that it would not go
all
the way through there was little left to do but open the tank to see
what the trouble was. After carefully cutting around the fitting and
pulling it out I discover a plastic filter on the end of the pickup
tube. I sloshed tank sealer through the tank a couple years ago to
insure against rust flakes in the carbs. Trouble is, the sealer also
sealed the filter. Compressed air blew the filter apart at a couple
seams but when the gas began flowing it would seal and prevent fuel
from
being pumped.
My question is this. If the fitting was welded to the tank at the
factory, how was anyone to examine it when troubled by poor gas flow?
Did they expect the Owner to throw away their tanks and purchase new
ones? Did a PO have the fitting welded to the tank for some reason?
Warning to those that might want to slosh their tank with sealant.
Alan
HBJ8L/34297
[--- bobjudd@earthlink.net
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 15:38:10 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-4 Mirror
In a message dated 5/15/01 11:55:36 AM Central Daylight Time,
dwflagg@juno.com writes:
<< n the AHCA calendar the picture for June is a red/black 100-4 having a
driver's side rear view mirror that appears to be mounted or attached to
the side curtain socket. Was this an accessory, and if so where can on be
found? Thanks. >>
Try your local motorcycle shop.
Don
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SWEIL at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 16:00:26 EDT
Subject: Healey radio interruption
I installed a radio via a polarity converter years ago and it has worked fine
except for one nagging problem.
When I press the brake pedal the radio cuts out for a moment. It is only a
momentary interruption. If I press the brake pedal again within a few
moments it does not happen. When I press the brake after 30 seconds it will
interrupt again.
Is there a simple solution? Probably not but I would be happy to hear NPR
without missing any words!
Steve, BJ-8
Denver
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 14:01:56 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Front Left Fender
Greetings all,
My BJ8 is in the shop getting some old body work (less than desireable)
re-done. The front left shroud / fender at the headlight bucket. Just got
a call from the gent doing the work and he wanted me to see the availability
of a good used fener before he tries to work on this. He found lots of
plastic.. Anyone with a ggod BJ8 left front fender or leads I would
appreciate a response off the list. Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 17:27:58 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-4 Mirror
No, these most likely are mirrors for a Harley bike.
I have them on my 100/6
Jerry Anderson
BN4 1957
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 16:00:16 -0400
Subject: Re: for sale!
If anyone is interested enough in this car to make the call, could you find
out the VIN and pass it to me for the BJ8 Registry? I would appreciate it.
It's possible that I already have a previous history on it if that's of
interest.
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd S Taylor" <todd.s.taylor@lmco.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 14, 2001 4:15 PM
> Subject: for sale !
>
>
> >
> > This was an ad in our Sunday paper, I don't have any interest or know
> > anything about this car....I just thought I'd past this along
> > This is in central New York State...
> >
> > 67 healey 3000 mk3, new brakes, rims, tires, runs great $16,000 call
> > 315-492-3184
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 15:06:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey radio interruption
Mine does the same thing if I'm at idle. The problem is the inverter
doesn't work well enough down at the low voltage, and when you hit the
brakes the added load of the brake lights makes the radio cut out. I lose
all my radio presets too!
-----------------------------
At 01:00 PM 5/15/2001, you wrote:
>I installed a radio via a polarity converter years ago and it has worked fine
>except for one nagging problem.
>
>When I press the brake pedal the radio cuts out for a moment. It is only a
>momentary interruption. If I press the brake pedal again within a few
>moments it does not happen. When I press the brake after 30 seconds it will
>interrupt again.
>
>Is there a simple solution? Probably not but I would be happy to hear NPR
>without missing any words!
>
>Steve, BJ-8
>Denver
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 18:30:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Pickup
Hi Alan,
This is a problem that we ran into several years ago and for that reason
we do not "slosh" Healey tanks. In addition to the risk of the filter
being blocked when you do the job we found that in rusted areas the
compound tended to pull off the surface like sun burnt skin and then
block the intake filter.
I presume that the movement of fuel in the tank would tend to wash the
filter clean of normal sediment and gunge.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 18:06:05 -0400
Subject: Re:100 Mirror
Thanks to all who replied....I have found a source.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Joseph Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 20:45:33 -0400
Subject: FW: Scissors Jacks
Thanks to all to responded. I received a wealth of information and
will find this jack.
Best Regards, Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph F.
Smathers
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: 05/15/2001 11:29:40 AM
Subject: Scissors Jacks
I have been through many auto catalogues on the Internet and can not
find
a suitable scissors jack for my Healey's. Any leads would be
helpful.
Best regards, Joe
55 100
60 3000
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 17:58:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Ignition Teaser
Paul -
My bet is that the power lead to your coil is somehow
running with some resistance in the circuit and thus,
your coil is not getting the full voltage & subsequent
charge to give you a strong spark. Do a resistance
check on this circuit and see if there's any
resistance. Anything over 0.1 Ohm is a big warning
sign.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Paul Negus <pauln@iplbath.com> wrote:
>
> Listers
>
> Took the car out last Friday on a beautiful barmy
> evening - far too
> good to do anything except cruise in the Healey!
> Sadly, the car
> started misfiring after some 8 miles, stopping
> completely after a
> further mile.
>
> I checked the obvious - fuel was getting to the
> carbs and could be
> smelt at the exhaust pipes. (I have a solid state
> pump which was
> ticking away nicely). The battery was brand new
> (that day), fully
> charged and turned the engine over without problem.
> I then tried my
> in-line spark tester - no spark! I normally run a
> points assisted
> electronic ignition (Boyer Bransden) so I
> disconnected this and
> reverted to the standard setup. Still no joy!
>
> Took out my test lead and bulb. There was juice at
> the coil, the
> capacitor was not shorting, the points opened when
> they should
> and there was a bit of sparking when I connected the
> test lead to
> the coil + or - terminals with the points open. I
> also made sure that
> the two flexible wires inside the distributor were
> not chafed or
> broken. I checked inside the distributor cap - no
> sign of tracking
> and the carbon contact was moving freely. Just in
> case, I expanded
> its spring slightly. Incidentally, in case you are
> wondering, the cut-
> out switch in the boot is disconnected on my car!
>
> Finally, just in case, I changed the rotor arm and
> the capacitor.
> Still no joy!
>
> By now, it was dark and I had summoned the recovery
> truck. He
> arrived as I made my last futile attempt, I
> explained what I had
> done and he got a spare plug out, connected number 3
> lead to it
> and placed the end against the rocker cover nut. I
> hit the starter -
> not only did the spare plug spark, the engine burst
> into life
> immediately! It purred all the way home (3 miles) -
> neither of us
> could explain what had occurred, other than noting
> that it is easier
> to fire a plug that is not under compression in the
> cylinder.
>
> There are some other facts:
>
> I had a starting problem last year and replaced the
> coil with a
> Lucas Sports coil, regapping the plugs to 40 thou.
> Subsequently, I
> found two of the NGK spark plug connectors to be
> open circuit and
> replaced them.
>
> The Lucas coil measures 3.2 ohm primary, 8.94K ohm
> secondary.
> For comparison, I have a new stock coil that
> measures 3.6 ohm
> primary, 6.46K ohm secondary.
>
> Now, I have some theories as to what the problem
> might be but I
> would welcome any ideas from the list. In
> particular, what
> resistance should these coils be and why did the car
> suddenly
> burst into life when a plug was fired outside of the
> cylinder?
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 18:12:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: The Answer to: Odd fact & Quiz: Glove Box Lock w/ Keys
Well, by the relative lack of response, I guess no one
really cares! Oh well, Michael Salter gave it a good
shot... but was wrong.
The standard used for that screw is an obsolescent
British "Bicycle" standard!
Regards
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Michael Salter <magicare@home.com> wrote:
> At a guess I would say Unified Miniature
> Thread.because I thhik it is bigger than
> American Standard Microscope Objective Thread or
> British Instrument Makers
> System but that is just a guess ;-).
> I have one but it is in the last of the glove box
> locks that I have left in stock
> and I suspect that it is too small to measure.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> International Investor wrote:
>
> > Was told by Steve Norton at cape-international
> last
> > night that the tiny little set screw which holds
> the
> > lock barrel to the chrome surround on the FRONT of
> the
> > BJ8 glove box is neither "British Standard,"
> "British
> > Association," "UNF/SAE/AF/Standard," or even
> "Metric."
> >
> > Can anyone guess what the standard is? I'll tell
> if
> > someone gets it right.
> >
> > By the way, I actually need that screw, anyone
> have a
> > spare?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Alan
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 23:12:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Scissors Jacks
I just went to a junk yard and asked them for the lowest scissors jack they
had. They showed me a couple and I bought one for about 12 dollars. Good
luck.
Ned Paulsen
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 23:28:23 EDT
Subject: FACET FUEL PUMP QUESTION
Greetings,
Getting ready to fire up my engine after the rebuild and am testing the fuel
system. Does the facet pump run continuously? Or is it controlled by internal
pressure switches like other pumps? The pump is delivering fuel adequately
and there are no obvious leaks except I was thinking about checking for air
on the inlet side.
Regards.
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:54:24 +1000
Subject: Re: Radio BJ8
I have considered fitting a radio but don't want to drill a hole or have the
unsightly antenna that goes with it. Are there less obtrusive systems as a
replacement antenna available?
In intend fitting the radio at the very back corner of the parcel shelf so
it would not be visible, for aesthetics as well as a theft deterrent.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
>
> Mike,
> For a new radio, look at the street rod scene. They make exactly what you
> want. Try Street Rod magazine and Hemmings.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8 with a 1978 Concord radio/cassette (dial, pointer, two knobs)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 22:10:15 -0700
Subject: Lost Lister
John Pagel: Please contact me.
Len.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 00:08:07 EDT
Subject: Re: FW: Scissors Jacks
Most scissors jacks have a very small base and are very unstable be sure and
find one that has a large base and lifting platform for the most stability,
like what was in our tech article in both the Healey Magazines.
David Nock
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 06:25:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Radio BJ8
Greg:
Although I haven't tried this in my Healey, I installed a radio in a
sailboat using one of the short "rubber" like replacement antennas (Auto
Zone in the US, but any discount type auto parts place should have something
similar). It is about 12-18 inches long. Rather than formally mount it I
simply laid it in the mounting space behind the radio. It worked fine for
stronger stations. The metal body on the Healey may make this system less
successful than it was on the fiberglass sailboat, but the cost and car
damage are essentially non-existent.
Cheers,
John Cope
62 BT7 in Waycross, GA USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 12:54 AM
Subject: Re: Radio BJ8
>
> I have considered fitting a radio but don't want to drill a hole or have
the
> unsightly antenna that goes with it. Are there less obtrusive systems as a
> replacement antenna available?
> In intend fitting the radio at the very back corner of the parcel shelf so
> it would not be visible, for aesthetics as well as a theft deterrent.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
>
>
> >
> > Mike,
> > For a new radio, look at the street rod scene. They make exactly what
you
> > want. Try Street Rod magazine and Hemmings.
> > Ken Freese
> > 65 BJ8 with a 1978 Concord radio/cassette (dial, pointer, two knobs)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 20:35:06 +1000
Subject: Site Update and prototype 100 X11
Hello everyone
I have just completed a small update to the site, including a short
article on Karsten Stelk's 100 restoration and some new images in
Prototype, pre and early production cars. I would appreciate some
assistance with the latter, especially identification of some of the "X"
prefix specials and if the fate of the original prototype 100 (X11) is
known.
As usual links are provided in "New" near the bottom of the page.
Regards
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 07:01:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Radio BJ8
<<unsightly antenna that goes with it>>
Street Rodders use a loop antenna that goes under the floorboards that is
unseen and reportedly effective. The Street Rod Nationals are held here in
Louisville each summer (10,000+ cars, makes our Conclave seem very, very
small) and I asked several of them about the system and they all endorsed it
as working effectively.
Seems like a perfect setup for a Healey.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 07:12:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Radio BJ8
Hi Greg,
When customers ask us to install an antenna we make an L shaped bracket and
mount
a short flex antenna to one of the outer rear bumper bolts. i.e. the bolt that
holds the bumper to the bumper mount.
Seems to work fine, less engine interference and no holes required. You do,
however, need an extension antenna cable.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Greg Bankin wrote:
> I have considered fitting a radio but don't want to drill a hole or have the
> unsightly antenna that goes with it. Are there less obtrusive systems as a
> replacement antenna available?
> In intend fitting the radio at the very back corner of the parcel shelf so
> it would not be visible, for aesthetics as well as a theft deterrent.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From J & L Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 11:11:54 +0100
Subject: M.G.C.'s
Like most others I believed the popular press that MGC's were not to be
taken seriously ! Then one day in U.K. I was fortunate enough to be
offered a ride in one of the genuine works Sebring MGC's and I can tell
you it was one of the most impressive rides I have experienced. The cart
was driven by Mr Ron Gammons of Gammons and Brown and he was certainly
up to the task of demonstrating this ex racer. At one stage I believe we
were doing 5200 RPM in top overdrive obviously the alloy head, webers,
straight cut gear box four wheel disks magnesium mini lites and alloy
panels made a big difference.
When I compare it to some of the other rides I have had eg 100S, Works
Sebring 3000, Works LeMans Healey at Lemans itself(7200RPM in 5th gear)
the MGC was still an impressive ride.
I guess those Donald Healey Motor Compamy Guys and their pals down the
road at MG Competitions Dept. sure knew what to modify and tweek.
My advice MGC's are a chep buy with potential!!
Joe
Yellow One
Blue One
Red One
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 10:21:28 -0400
Subject: reamers
What reamers do folks use? and like?
I am considering rebuilding a rocker arm for an engine. I've
heard that the size hole for the rocker arm is exactly the same
as the lower kingpin hole. So one could imagine (perhaps)
buying a reamer specifically designed for the kingpins...
But, I've heard others say that a good way to ream a bushing is
to gradually creep up on the size. I presume that there are
adjustable reamers available.
But I don't know what the adjustable ones look like, and I don't
know where to buy a good one. Does Snap-On make one? Are the
adjustable reamers just a set of stones attached to two/three
swivel arms that one finds in the local auto-store for doing
brake cylinders? Or is there something fancier/more
reliable/more accurate?
So: What do you recommend? (I know... just go to my local
machinist)... (I like him, but I'd like to learn from a broader
audience too...)
Thanks
-Skip-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 08:13:25 -0700
Subject: Transmission and shifting
Well, the list has been a great help, my thanks to all with providing
information my differential problems and the crank nut.
I have another question.
When I shift from 1st to 2nd gear I have difficulty consistently finding
second gear. Is there a why to improve this? There is a little rounding
where the shifter selector hits the shifting forks.
Any help on this would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
John
'62 BT7 MK II Tricarb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:21:38 -0400
Subject: Visit to U.K.-no Healey content
I hope the listers will indulge me, but I'm trying to get an idea on
what progress has been made on the foot and mouth situation in
Britain. I've promised my son I'd take him this year, but walking in
the countryside and on the coastal paths was to be a big part of the
holiday. Would it be wise to wait until next year, because of
restrictions on foot traffic?
I would appreciate any advice, none of my family in England have
E-mail, and I need an up to date report.
Stephen Hutchings
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 16:56:05 +0100
Subject: My rotor arm problem (3 in 300 miles) - thanks for help
Many thanks to all of the suggestions re this problem. I've not yet had
a chance to investigate based on your advice - but if, I waited till
then to say 'thanks', you'd probably all have forgotten the question!
On this subject, does anyone know of a guaranteed high quality rotor
arm? I'm sure we'd all pay a few more pounds or dollars for a unit that
is a bit more predictable and reliable. Is there a known source of
'Rolls Royce' rotor arms (but to fit a Healey, of course!). Or is it
only possible to buy cheap far-Eastern imports?
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:10:07 -0500
Subject: Houston Area
Hi Texan Listers,
It looks like I will be in the Houston area every week over the next several
months - probably until the end of the year. I would appreciate any input
on Healey events, club meetings, gatherings, etc. that may be of interest to
a fellow enthusiast. Some friendly chats over a pint or two would be great
as well. I appreciate any contacts off-list.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 10:30:37 -0700
Subject: Re: MGCs
I wonder if anyone ever put an MGC engine in a Healey.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 13:58:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint formula
In a message dated 5/14/01 10:02:17 PM, bron@rmci.net writes:
<< Learned ones,
Can anyone tell me the paint formula for healey blue, or where to find it?
Sid, bj8 Boise >>
Best I've seen came from Dick Maine in Long Beach (never can remember if he
is K&R paints or R&R Paints but I believe he advertises in the Healey club
magazines).
Of course, another alternative is if you can find a good clean sample of the
old color on your car -- under door panel, for example -- most good paint
suppliers can do an optical scan and match your color. Just be sure that you
have them mix up a small sample and have your paint shop spray it out to make
sure it's what you want before you spring for the whole batch (modern
two-part paints of the quality you want can be very expensive, but are worth
the price.)
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:15:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Scissors Jacks
In a message dated 5/15/01 9:27:27 AM, awill@bama.ua.edu writes:
<< Try Wal-Mart. I bought one there for my BJ7. Fully collapsed, it measures
about
3" tall. I think it was less than $20. >>
When buying one of these jacks (as opposed to buying a good old Toyota (e.g.)
scissors jack from a junk yard or looking at a new, high-quality scissors
jack at a steep price), you want to look at how the handle hooks onto the
jack, and how long the handle is. In my experience last year with two flat
tires in three months (idiots who mounted the tires forgot to remove the
labels inside them) I found that the handles on the standard Napa/Walmart
jacks are very short, considering that you're going to want to get that jack
under the base of the spring which is pretty far under the car, and only have
good leverage through about one-third of their rotation. They also often
have very small bases. Combined, this means you are going to scrape your
knuckles big time, and be very pissed by the time you get the car high enough
to get the wheel off. If the car hasn't fallen off the jack in the mean time.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:35:06 +0100
Subject: Re: Visit to U.K.-no Healey content
Dear Stephen,
Re - Foot & Mouth in the UK.
My wife, Ann, is a Temporary Veterinary Inspector based in Dumfries which is
a town in Southern Scotland. She has been away from home since March 5th and
is actively involved in the culling of animals in the 3 kilometre
"firebreak" around an Infected Property.
The number of outbreaks in the UK has dropped dramatically over the past 2/3
weeks, we are not sure, however, if the figures are being 'massaged' by the
politians due to our General Election on June 7th.
Many of the restrictions imposed at the beginning of the outbreak by our
Ministry of Agriculture have now being relaxed and a very high percentage of
the country is open for business. There are some areas that still require
due consideration when walking in the countryside. In general, the British
public have been very responsible in this respect and have given massive
support to the farming community.
The major outbreaks have been in Southern Scotland, Cumbria (North West
England) and the County of Devon (South West England).
If you can let me know where you were planning to walk in the UK, I, or the
local Tourist Board, can offer more advice.
Being in Scotland, I have no hesitation in recommending that you come to our
part of the UK, any part north of a line Glasgow to Edinburgh is deemed a
low risk area and many of the walks are now open to the public. You could
spend many weeks here and not go over the same path twice.
Here comes the commercial - we do Bed & Breakfast, we are situated in
Perthshire, right in the middle of Scotland and would very much welcome
anyone to come and visit. (Especially Healey owners).
Regards,
Peter Hunt
www.easterton.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen Hutchings" <hutching@the-wire.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 4:21 PM
Subject: Visit to U.K.-no Healey content
>
> I hope the listers will indulge me, but I'm trying to get an idea on
> what progress has been made on the foot and mouth situation in
> Britain. I've promised my son I'd take him this year, but walking in
> the countryside and on the coastal paths was to be a big part of the
> holiday. Would it be wise to wait until next year, because of
> restrictions on foot traffic?
> I would appreciate any advice, none of my family in England have
> E-mail, and I need an up to date report.
>
> Stephen Hutchings
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:04:59 -0400
Subject: Flats from tire labels
> In my experience last year with two flat
> tires in three months (idiots who mounted the tires forgot to remove the
> labels inside them)
Hmmmn. I thought I was the only one suffering from labels rubbing thru the
tubes. I've had three flats also since getting the car from the PO last
spring. Now, I wonder why the fourth one hasn't gone flat yet... Must be
waiting for that special moment...
Lee Mairs
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 16:00:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Radio BJ8
Great. So now we are to worry about ripping out our radio antennae along
with our exhaust! :)
Keith Pennell
> Street Rodders use a loop antenna that goes under the floorboards that is
> unseen and reportedly effective.
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 13:44:39 -0700
Subject: Re: MGCs
I understood the MGC 6 cyl was a 7-main update on the Healey engine.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
> Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 10:59:45 -0700
> To: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
> Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: MGCs
>
> The only MGC I ever saw I walked past at a show and it had a V8 in it. What
> exactly is a MGC engine?
>
> Brian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 17:08:41 EDT
Subject: Re: MGCs
In a message dated 5/16/01 1:46:13 PM, sgerow@singular.com writes:
<<
I understood the MGC 6 cyl was a 7-main update on the Healey engine.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6 >>
That's kinda the way I read it. It's the next evolution of the BMC "C"-series
engine (after the Healey style). Supposedly heavier and not as powerful,
though I don't have the figures in front of me.
Oh. Here:
July 1967 saw a six cylinder M.G. for sale, the new MGC. It used a
redesigned, seven main bearing, 'C' series engine of 2912cc, giving 170lb/ft
torque at 3400rpm, and 145bhp at 5250rpm, 5bhp less than the last Healey 3000
with its four main bearing engine. One wonders how BMC lost that 5bhp, but
they did the same thing with the 'ZB' Magnette's 68bhp to the Mk3 Magnettes
66bhp in 1959, with the same 1489cc engine! The new six cylinder engine did
not deliver the mid-range torque required of a sports car, it had been
designed for a saloon car. This was a nice lazy six, looking good on paper
but sportscar road testers complained, citing poor camshaft timing and
breathing problems. September 1969 saw the last MGC after only 8, 99 cars.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 17:18:38 -0400
Subject: Re: MGCs
They both use the same pistons, Same capacity but not many other parts are
interchangeable.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Steve Gerow wrote:
> I understood the MGC 6 cyl was a 7-main update on the Healey engine.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 17:14:34 EDT
Subject: 100/Brakes
Have redone brakes, bled them, they never work on the first stroke, but
always do on the second stroke. Re-bled, no bubbles. Repeat, still no
bubbles, but still do not work on the first stroke.
No problem normally. I pump twice to stop normally, but, someday I will
Forget.
Any ideas. Bill Huck BN1, BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 17:32:13 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-4 Mirror
Doug,
Harley Davidson motorcycle dealers have several nicely chromed mirrors that
are the exact fit in the sidescreen socket. I bought mine about two years
ago for around $15.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "john.metcalfe3" <john.metcalfe3 at ntlworld.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 17:39:25 +0000
Subject: Reamers
skip
A drill can not produce a hole having sufficiently good qualities of
finish and accuracy there for a reamer must be used for finishing to size.
producing the necessary smoothness parallelism roundness and accuracy
in size.
There are various types of reamers, Hand reamers, Machine Reamers,
Chucking Reamers, Floating Reamers and Expanding Reamers.
I have a 2 page A4 text booklet glad to send a copy if any use to you ,
contact me off line .
J Metcalfe
BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:47:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint formula
In a message dated 5/16/01 1:11:18 PM, dickb01@earthlink.net writes:
<< a late 80's BMW Light
Blue Metallic - now I have found the PPG Code for the latter - DBU 15400, >>
I used that paint when I repainted my BN7 the first time. It is a lovely
paint, with a lot of purple in it, and gets a lot of compliments. However,
the first time I saw it next to a good Healey Ice Blue Metallic, with the
silver sheen and overtones of green, I knew I was going to have to get the
car repainted.
On the other hand, the shades do vary pretty significantly. All you have to
do is look at the cover of our restoration book to see that. The blues on
all three of those cars were extensively researched -- the BJ8 was matched to
its original blue -- the BN7 using the ICI paint formula for Ice Blue
Metallic obtained from the Rolls Royce restoration assistance offices (Rolls
and Healey, as with many others, shared that color), and the BN2 was matched
to a very good sample of its own original paint.
You'll note the differences in shade. I still like Dick Maine's shade the
best of any I've seen.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bill at whwoodruff.com
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 16:58:53 -0700
Subject: Need crank pulley for BJ8
Hi Guys,
I need a crank pulley and harmonic balancer for a BJ8. The ones I need
should have been on most all 6 cylinder cars except for very late BJ8s.
If you have one to spare, please email me off the list. Thanks,
Bill W.
bill@whwoodruff.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 20:21:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Paint formula
1958 Chevy light metallic blue was also nearly a dead ringer for
Healey blue. In '59, '60, '61 when I had my first Hundred and made
many injudicious decisions, the body shops used the Chevrolet color
for repairs and I could hardly tell where the repaint started or
stopped.
Ed A
><< a late 80's BMW Light
>Blue Metallic - now I have found the PPG Code for the latter - DBU
15400, >>
>
>I used that paint when I repainted my BN7 the first time. It is a
lovely
>paint, with a lot of purple in it, and gets a lot of compliments.
>
>On the other hand, the shades do vary pretty significantly. All you
have to
>do is look at the cover of our restoration book to see that. The
blues on
>all three of those cars were extensively researched -- the BJ8 was
matched to
>its original blue -- the BN7 using the ICI paint formula for Ice Blue
>Metallic obtained from the Rolls Royce restoration assistance offices
(Rolls
>and Healey, as with many others, shared that color), and the BN2 was
matched
>to a very good sample of its own original paint.
>
>You'll note the differences in shade. I still like Dick Maine's
shade the
>best of any I've seen.
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 17:38:19 -0700
Subject: Re: My rotor arm problem (3 in 300 miles) - thanks for help
WRT:
> On this subject, does anyone know of a guaranteed high quality rotor
> arm?
Yep. Made by Lucas.
OK, you can quit laughing now :) Truth is, when it comes to distributor caps
and rotors I
won't use anything else. I wouldn't be surprised if they're used on Rollses as
well.
Moss Motors sells them (rotors), at a slight premium to the junk. I believe
Moss is in the
UK, too.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <AlanX@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 8:56 AM
Subject: My rotor arm problem (3 in 300 miles) - thanks for help
>
> Many thanks to all of the suggestions re this problem. I've not yet had
> a chance to investigate based on your advice - but if, I waited till
> then to say 'thanks', you'd probably all have forgotten the question!
>
> On this subject, does anyone know of a guaranteed high quality rotor
> arm? I'm sure we'd all pay a few more pounds or dollars for a unit that
> is a bit more predictable and reliable. Is there a known source of
> 'Rolls Royce' rotor arms (but to fit a Healey, of course!). Or is it
> only possible to buy cheap far-Eastern imports?
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 17:50:21 -0700
Subject: Re: MGCs
Mike,
Didn't the MGC engine use Hepolyte pistons, which are supposedly superior to the
Healey engine's?
I'm thinking about using the Hepolyte in the next rebuild.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
Cc: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@home.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 2:18 PM
Subject: Re: MGCs
>
> They both use the same pistons, Same capacity but not many other parts are
> interchangeable.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> Steve Gerow wrote:
>
> > I understood the MGC 6 cyl was a 7-main update on the Healey engine.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:59:21 -0500
Subject: MGC's
NO ! but i do know some one who put a MGC tranny in his '57 BN4?...you
know the creased hood one........don't know if it's betterr or
worse......name withheld due to sereration/divorce in progress.....hoYo
ps damn that's a short Healey shifter behind your elbow?! HoYo
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 17:46:48 -0700
Subject: CARB Clean Air Plan (indirect Healey content)
If anybody's interested in what CARB (Ca. Air Resources Board - the "smog
people") is
up to goto:
http://www.arb.ca.gov/planning/caplan/caplan.htm
They have a mailing list you can subscribe to.
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 20:14:06 -0500
Subject: JustBrits and Ed Kaler
Does anyone know what has happened to Ed Kaler? I've sent him several
e-mails trying to order door seals and have had no response. Any body know
whats up???
Don
BN7
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark.
Professionals built the Titanic.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 21:14:01 -0400
Subject: BT7 tailpipes
Hi all,
Can anybody help me with a small problem . A customer wants a larger bore
dual tailpipe for his BT7. Who makes or sells such an animal, is it a well
made system?
orig bolt on type. Would not like to go stainless if poss. (cust.
preference) Need new system from manifold back.
Reguards, Carroll Phillips
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 11:18:45 +1000
Subject: RE: MGCs - Now Long
Greetings
The history of the MGC engine is one of those typical BMC projects of the
1960s that just didn't quite work out the way they wanted it to.
It starts back during 1957 when the engineers at Abingdon began to take on
responsibility for the future designs of the Austin-Healey. Badge
engineering was alive and well back then as the organisation was thinking
about a successor to the MGA and the thought of a MG and Austin-Healey
sharing the same floorpan/chassis/body certainly appealed.
We all know the result was the MGB but a number of differing engine
proposals were considered. Geoff Healey proposed a shorter stoke version of
the AH100 engine. While this engine was first designed before WW2 it was
still in use in the Austin Taxi and Gypsy 4WD in the late 1950s. Geoff
suggested fitting the shorter stroke crank from the diesel version giving a
capacity of 2.5 litres with a projected power of around 140 to 180bhp from
the higher reving engine. There was some thought to fitting a six cylinder
to the MG version and the more powerful four to the AH. However BMC pulled
the plug due to costs.
Austin were looking at a new six cylinder engine based on the MGA 1,489cc
four called the Blue Streak but the old Austin/Morris rivalry put paid to
that idea. Here in Australia BMC produced a six cylinder engine based on the
1,622cc version of the B-series engine giving 2.2 litres. It was fitted to a
number of cars here and also tried out in a number of MG prototypes in the
UK.
At the same time Alex Issigonis of Mini fame was given the task was to
refine the C-series six cylinder engine by increasing the number of main
bearings from four to seven and reducing weight. Strangely he was not asked
to look at the engine's performance. In the end the revised engine was still
the same internal dimensions giving 2,912cc, the same as the older C-series
and was 44lbs lighter, but still 209lb heavier then the MGB four. Power was
145bhp at 5,250rpm, which was 3bhp less, than the engine in the
Austin-Healey. From the outside it was a very different looking engine.
At the same time Abingdon engineers were trying to fit a C-series engine
into a MGB. Lengthways it was fine but the height of the engine presented
some difficulties. It resulted in a complete redesign of the front inner
body panels and the change of front suspension from coil springs to a
torsion bar arrangement. Even with all this it was still necessary to add
significant bulges to the bonnet. The radiator was moved forward and ideally
it would have been preferable to modify the bulkhead so that the engine sat
further back. Unfortunately the cost to carry out such an exercise was
prohibitive.
Abingdon was told quite clearly that the new MG was going to be powered by
the new version of the C-series. On hearing this, strong argument was put to
Issigonis to reduce the engine's stroke, making it rev more freely. However
history tells us that Issigonis was not about to alter his ideas. The result
of all this was the relatively unsuccessful as far as sales were concerned
MGC. There were a number of BJ7s fitted with the Issigonis altered engine
but were converted back later.
By early 1966 the BJ8 still had some eighteen plus months to run and it was
the intention of BMC to release the new six cylinder MG as both the MGC and
also the Austin-Healey 3000 MkIV. An Austin-Healey example was built
complete with badges and the like. Superficially the only differences with
the Austin-Healey was a Healey style grille with vertical slats, different
bumper overriders and a chrome strip along the sill. There was even some
thought given to an Austin-Healey 1800 as well, or what would have been a
rebadged MGB.
Donald and Geoff Healey were invited to view the new Austin-Healey in late
1966. History does not record the Healeys' actual words, but it does tell us
that they were not impressed at all with the proposed MkIV and refused to be
associated with it in any way. The Healeys were very strong in their
condemnation of the new car, which must have came as a surprise to BMC, as
manufacturing parts and even sales brochures had been produced for the
vehicle. Shortly after there was a further serious re-look at the use of
Australian six cylinder engine, but despite the preparation of plans and
work on a test vehicle it came to nothing.
There is no doubt that Donald and Geoff Healey's strong objection to the
Austin-Healey 3000 MkIV was the cause of a rift between them and BMC. A rift
that eventually led to the demise of big Healey production in late 1967
under the pretext that the car could no longer meet US emission regulations.
It should be realised that for every Austin-Healey sold BMC paid a royalty
to the Donald Healey Motor Company, something that is recorded as being an
annoyance to George Harriman of BMC. However the Healey's connection with
BMC would continue until 1971 with the Austin-Healey Sprite, until the
Healey name was dropped and the car was known simply as the Austin Sprite.
Having driven both I found that there is something lacking with the MGC.
While power was about the same the engine just doesn't rev as hard as the
C-series which can only be put down to the drag caused by the seven bearing
crank. However no doubt with proper building and tuning the MGC engine could
be made into a real flyer.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 7:19 AM
To: Steve Gerow
Cc: Brian Mix; Healeys
Subject: Re: MGCs
They both use the same pistons, Same capacity but not many other parts are
interchangeable.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Steve Gerow wrote:
> I understood the MGC 6 cyl was a 7-main update on the Healey engine.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From D Job <djob at home.com>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 21:20:03 -0400
Subject: French Healey club
If there are any French Healey club members on the list I would like to
ask for some information and would appreciate if they could contact me
off list
Merci
Derek Job
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 18:47:02 -0700
Subject: Re: BT7 tailpipes
I believe Ansa makes a "free-flow" for the BT/N7's.
Have one on my BJ8 and the quality and fit is fine, though they developed
stress cracking
at the base of the pipes to and from the muffler (front) unit after 40,000
miles/8 years or so.
Fixed with a wire welder.
Think the usual suspects (Moss, VB, Hemphill's, etc.) all carry them.
Hemphill's "kit" includes
the down pipes.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 6:14 PM
Subject: BT7 tailpipes
>
> Hi all,
>
> Can anybody help me with a small problem . A customer wants a larger bore
> dual tailpipe for his BT7. Who makes or sells such an animal, is it a well
> made system?
> orig bolt on type. Would not like to go stainless if poss. (cust.
> preference) Need new system from manifold back.
>
> Reguards, Carroll Phillips
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:49:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: MGC Sound
There used to be a pretty ratty pale yellow MGC-GT here in Visalia that
had an automatic (Borg Warner?) and what sounded like a glasspack
muffler. The big six made a wonderful melodious howl as the loose
torque converter fed power through the slipping transmission shifts.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 22:46:22 -0400
Subject: Re: 100/Brakes
> Bill Huck wrote:
Have redone brakes, bled them, they never work on the first stroke, but
> always do on the second stroke. Re-bled, no bubbles. Repeat, still no
> bubbles, but still do not work on the first stroke.
> No problem normally. I pump twice to stop normally, but, someday I
will
> Forget.
> Any ideas. Bill Huck BN1, BJ8
Sounds to me as though there are some adjustments which need to be checked.
1. Completely remove the clevis pins from the rear handbrake rods to the
cylinders before adjusting the rear shoes. Adjust the shoes to just barely
skim the drums. Then, and only then, reconnect the handbrake linkage and
adjust the cable if necessary.. This is a common fault of people setting up
the rear shoes on Healeys, including licenced mechanics who should know
better!!
2. Make sure all shoe steady posts have the width of the shoes sitting
exactly true to the drums. i.e the shoe lining isn't contacting along the
inner or outer edges first.
3. Make sure the shoe radius is arced exactly to that of the drum, with no
high or low contact areas, but a nice even contact.
4. Make sure pedal free play and travel is set correctly at the pedal push
rod.
5. make sure all flex hoses are in good condition and are not soft and
"ballooning"
Hope this helps.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 23:23:01 -0400
Subject: Re: JustBrits and Ed Kaler
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 9:14 PM
Subject: JustBrits and Ed Kaler
>
He is alive and well. I have had several email conversations with him this
week and have ordered from him. I must say that my first email may not have
gotten to him but when I replied to one of his, I got a quick response.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
> Does anyone know what has happened to Ed Kaler? I've sent him several
> e-mails trying to order door seals and have had no response. Any body
know
> whats up???
>
> Don
> BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 21:45:08 +1000
Subject: BN1 early front inner guards
Hello Again
My latest update on the site supplied BN1 body 2017 built Feb 54 (
Thanks Chris) still equipped with the early front inner guards of the
style that can be seen here -
http://www.users.bigpond.com/acmefluid/45.html
If there is anyone out there that has a later car that has this feature,
or an earlier car that either has or hasn't, it would be good to hear
from you. Results will be posted to the page above.
Regards
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "E & J Smith" <bluechip at comcastnet.com>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 09:24:45 -0400
Subject: Re: 100/Brakes
Bill: Make sure the shoes retract properly. any sluggishness here will
cause the problem you describe. This can be caused by weak return springs
and/or gummy old fluid around the wheel cylinder piston/seal. (even when you
bleed the brakes, this sludge can stay).
I had the same problem on my BN1. Rebuilt the wheel cylinders, and
installed new springs......bled and adjusted thoroughly, problem went
away.
good luck, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <BillHUCK@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 5:14 PM
Subject: 100/Brakes
>
> Have redone brakes, bled them, they never work on the first stroke,
but
> always do on the second stroke. Re-bled, no bubbles. Repeat, still no
> bubbles, but still do not work on the first stroke.
> No problem normally. I pump twice to stop normally, but, someday I
will
> Forget.
> Any ideas. Bill Huck BN1, BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 08:50:39 -0500
Subject: Clutch Hydraulic Problems
I went for a spin the other day but noticed that when I pushed in on
the clutch it felt like there was little or no pressure on the pedal. And
the car was very difficult to shift. When I got home I removed the carpets
and tunnel and bled the system. The following week I decided to bring her
into work 26 + miles, she ran great, no shifting trouble at all.. until I
got home.. I noticed little resistance on the pedal again, and shifting is
again hard. I checked the fluid level and it's fine. I guess I'll remove
the carpet and tunnel again and bleed the slave cylinder again. I replaced
the hose to the slave cylinder over the winter, and bleed it then. Why do I
have to keep bleeding the system? I'm not losing fluid anywhere.. Could it
be the slave cylinder needs a rebuild? Why do I get good pressure after
bleeding and then it seems to get worse the more I drive....Removing the
carpet and tunnel is a pain in the back ;-). TIA
Steve
61 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 10:23:13 -0400
Subject: Follow up-Visit to U.K.
Thank you all very much for the useful and detailed information
regarding the foot and mouth disease
situation. It sounds as though our planned walks on the coastal path
in Cornwall should be OK, but I'll be doing some research on the net
regarding Warwickshire, and Kent.
Thanks again; what a great resource this is!
Stephen Hutchings
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 09:21:13 -0500
Subject: HD8'S carb choke return problem
Hi Healey Fans, I'm using BJ8 carbs (HD8's) on my BT7. Problem is, the
chokes will not properly return to their OFF position. Everything is clean,
smooth, with no apparent troubles. They close with just a little finger
push on the levers, but this is a pain in the neck. I've been thinking
about some additional springs but I thought I'd ask the list for ideas
first. Thanks in advance!!
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 10:36:46 -0400
Subject: Re: HD8'S carb choke return problem
Hi Jack,
This is a pretty common problem with HD8 carbs and if, as you report, everything
is working smoothly, I would recommend the installation of a couple of very
light
springs positioned to pull directly down on the end of the choke lever where the
cable trunnion is attached. The conical ended throttle springs and a length of
mechanics wire to ensure that they are not over stretched work very well.
There is a fairly strong case to support the idea that this was actually done on
an "as required" basis at the factory on BJ8s.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
"Brashear, Jack, N" wrote:
> Hi Healey Fans, I'm using BJ8 carbs (HD8's) on my BT7. Problem is, the
> chokes will not properly return to their OFF position. Everything is clean,
> smooth, with no apparent troubles. They close with just a little finger
> push on the levers, but this is a pain in the neck. I've been thinking
> about some additional springs but I thought I'd ask the list for ideas
> first. Thanks in advance!!
> Jack Brashear
> Little Rock, Arkansas
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 10:55:36 EDT
Subject: Re: HD8'S carb choke return problem
In a message dated 5/17/01 9:23:03 AM Central Daylight Time,
jnbrashear@GarverInc.com writes:
<< Everything is clean,
smooth, with no apparent troubles. >>
Hi Jack,
Good to see you are getting the BJ8 up and running.
The springs are on most cars that the coke cable mech. returns to the proper
place. Have them on my BJ8.
Recheck the brass rod and the shoe. The rod should be clean and roller on the
shoe should be in good shape. A little scotch brite on the rod will clean it
just fine. Don't oil it.
Then put the springs on to make it work.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 11:59:17 EDT
Subject: Re: CARB Clean Air Plan California Only
Does anyone have any up-to-date news on the status of SB1172 and SB800?
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 5/16/01 6:05:13 PM, bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
<<
If anybody's interested in what CARB (Ca. Air Resources Board - the "smog
people") is
up to goto:
http://www.arb.ca.gov/planning/caplan/caplan.htm
They have a mailing list you can subscribe to.
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Keith <75667.1332 at compuserve.com>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 12:11:38 -0400
Subject: Best way to bleed brakes?
I'm the one who had the Servo full of brake fluid ...
just over a "pint" by English measure (by design).
The Servo is now rebuilt and re-installed.
Is there a "best procedure" for bleeding the brakes?
Have done it before but I fear that Murphy is my
guardian angel <g>. Thanks for your help!
Keith's '65 Phase 1 BJ8 29100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 16:34:53 -0400
Subject: Fw: Woman drivers...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vernon A Jones" <vaje@juno.com>
To: <rickcis@hgs-utica.com>; <garsam@webtv.net>;
<barlowcharles@hotmail.com>; <ross0906@excite.com>;
<leisuretime@mindspring.com>; <Wanda.Diggs@AIG.com>; <fordca@erols.com>;
<MrsJonesnII@aol.com>; <rjv03@juno.com>; <traceycjw@aol.com>;
<kcordy@afsc.org>; <hayesg_07@yahoo.com>; <pkboicu@flashcom.net>;
<flashl@bigfoot.com>; <WACBILL@aol.com>; <champkitty@yahoo.com>;
<FOGGIN75@cs.com>; <dyljeffries@aol.com>; <hosaigai@juno.com>;
<mamaeze@hotmail.com>; <hernlsn@aol.com>; <hayjude38@aol.com>;
<shotsyputsy@hotmail.com>; <peter.ingalsbe@drum.army.mil>;
<collinsconsulting@prodigy.net>; <famcjr@home.com>;
<sweeto24@earthlink.net>; <emonroe15@hotmail.com>; <mooretara6@aol.com>;
<poppyo@banet.net>; <mandrik24@aol.com>; <Mcreynoldssr@aol.com>;
<roserobtr@aol.com>; <djmas@juno.com>; <sterling32@juno.com>;
<isartorny@cs.com>; <rawarren@rcn.com>
Cc: <doughboytwo@email.msn.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 8:16 AM
Subject: Fw: Woman drivers...
> Don't roll your eyes, or get mad at me.... I just pass 'em on......
> Vaj
> VajEnterprises
>
> --------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "Borchardt, Duke CW5 FL-ARNG" <duke.borchardt@fl.ngb.army.mil>
> To: Vernon A" <vaje@juno.com>
> Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 09:16:14 -0400
>
> Subject: Woman drivers...
>
> No comments necessary!!!
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
woman drivers.jpg]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Anders Gustafson" <bugeye at telia.com>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 23:32:36 +0200
Subject: Cam timing
Listers,
I am restoring the Webers on my BJ7. The camshaft comes from a Mk3 and the
guy doing the work asked me what specification it has and I did4nt manage to
find it in any of my books. Does anyone out there know the timing spec for a
standard 3000 MkIII cam?
thanks//AndersG
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anders Gustafson
AH Sprite Mk1 -61, AH 3000 Mk2 -63, BMC Morris 850 Mk1 -67
Phone +46-8-7493113, +46-70-5641432 (Mobile)
e-mail: bugeye@telia.com
Austin Healey Club of Sweden
www.healeysweden.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 18:27:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Best way to bleed brakes?
Keith,
The recommended sequence is from the bleeder farthest from the master
cylinder to the closest. This would be LR, RR, LF, RF. In terms of
technique, a rubber hose immersed in some fluid in a clear bottle (or jelly
jar) works fine.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith" <75667.1332@compuserve.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 12:11 PM
Subject: Best way to bleed brakes?
>
> I'm the one who had the Servo full of brake fluid ...
> just over a "pint" by English measure (by design).
> The Servo is now rebuilt and re-installed.
>
> Is there a "best procedure" for bleeding the brakes?
> Have done it before but I fear that Murphy is my
> guardian angel <g>. Thanks for your help!
>
> Keith's '65 Phase 1 BJ8 29100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 19:07:55 -0400
Subject: Attempt at humor
Please accept my apologies to all those that I offended by not properly
forwarding a JPG file. When I learn how to do it properly, perhaps I will try
again.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 19:52:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Best way to bleed brakes?
In a message dated 5/17/01 6:29:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
<< This would be LR, RR, LF, RF. >>
Hi-
Is this sequence true for both a left hand drive and right hand drive Healey?
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Membership Chairman & Delegate of Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Concours Committee Chairman- Judges & Judging
AHCA Liaison for Concours
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 20:03:18 -0400
Subject: Re: HD8'S carb choke return problem
Hi, Jack -
I used to use return springs attached to the jet levers and down to holes in
the diagonal structure under the carbs. While I had occasion recently to do
some work on the choke cables, I tried Ed Kaler's (Just Brits) suggestion to
use a couple of ballpoint pen springs on each cable between the jet levers
and the cable guide tubes attached to the carb air cleaner studs. They work
much better. The choke isn't so hard to pull out, and the ballpoint pen
springs seem just strong enough to return the jet levers with the choke
pushed in. They are also pretty much invisible unless you're looking for
them.
I made a spring "assembly" to make the springs easier to handle. I did this
by using JB Weld to glue together the two springs where they butt together,
and glued on a small washer at each end of the combined springs.
Great idea, Ed!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear@GarverInc.com>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 10:21 AM
Subject: HD8'S carb choke return problem
>
> Hi Healey Fans, I'm using BJ8 carbs (HD8's) on my BT7. Problem is, the
> chokes will not properly return to their OFF position. Everything is
clean,
> smooth, with no apparent troubles. They close with just a little finger
> push on the levers, but this is a pain in the neck. I've been thinking
> about some additional springs but I thought I'd ask the list for ideas
> first. Thanks in advance!!
> Jack Brashear
> Little Rock, Arkansas
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 10:14:08 +1000
Subject: RE: BN1 early front inner guards
G'day Larry
It just gets curiouser and curiouser.
The inner guards on the BN3/1 are of two piece construction. With chassis
number 144603 I know that it's quite early but not that early. When he was
still with us Geoff Healey told me that it was never a complete road going
car prior to fitting it with the C-series engine.
However I am now led to believe that at least the chassis was at the DHMC
from the very early days of the Austin-Healey and sometime before the
C-series was designed by Morris Engines in 1954.
I'll scan some photos over the weekend and email them to you on Monday
Regards
Patrick Quinn
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Varley [mailto:varley@cosmos.net.au]
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 9:45 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BN1 early front inner guards
Hello Again
My latest update on the site supplied BN1 body 2017 built Feb 54 (
Thanks Chris) still equipped with the early front inner guards of the
style that can be seen here -
http://www.users.bigpond.com/acmefluid/45.html
If there is anyone out there that has a later car that has this feature,
or an earlier car that either has or hasn't, it would be good to hear
from you. Results will be posted to the page above.
Regards
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 17:36:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Clutch Hydraulic Problems
Steve et al,
Haven't rebuilt a clutch master in a while, but checking the parts list I see
the clutch master
as a "check" valve at the end, like the brake master. This valve controls the
flow of fluid
to and from the reservoir, and if it's not sealing I believe you'll get the
symptoms you describe.
I know you will with the brakes.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 6:50 AM
Subject: Clutch Hydraulic Problems
>
> I went for a spin the other day but noticed that when I pushed in on
> the clutch it felt like there was little or no pressure on the pedal. And
> the car was very difficult to shift. When I got home I removed the carpets
> and tunnel and bled the system. The following week I decided to bring her
> into work 26 + miles, she ran great, no shifting trouble at all.. until I
> got home.. I noticed little resistance on the pedal again, and shifting is
> again hard. I checked the fluid level and it's fine. I guess I'll remove
> the carpet and tunnel again and bleed the slave cylinder again. I replaced
> the hose to the slave cylinder over the winter, and bleed it then. Why do I
> have to keep bleeding the system? I'm not losing fluid anywhere.. Could it
> be the slave cylinder needs a rebuild? Why do I get good pressure after
> bleeding and then it seems to get worse the more I drive....Removing the
> carpet and tunnel is a pain in the back ;-). TIA
>
>
> Steve
>
> 61 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 17:40:07 -0700
Subject: Re: HD8'S carb choke return problem
I put stiffer springs on the top of the shaft with the cam "foot" at the
bottom. This helps,
though sometimes I have to "snap" the choke an extra time to get the choke
levers to
return.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <Drtrite@aol.com>
To: <jnbrashear@GarverInc.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 7:55 AM
Subject: Re: HD8'S carb choke return problem
>
> In a message dated 5/17/01 9:23:03 AM Central Daylight Time,
> jnbrashear@GarverInc.com writes:
>
> << Everything is clean,
> smooth, with no apparent troubles. >>
>
> Hi Jack,
> Good to see you are getting the BJ8 up and running.
>
> The springs are on most cars that the coke cable mech. returns to the proper
> place. Have them on my BJ8.
>
> Recheck the brass rod and the shoe. The rod should be clean and roller on the
> shoe should be in good shape. A little scotch brite on the rod will clean it
> just fine. Don't oil it.
>
> Then put the springs on to make it work.
>
> Don Lenschow
> NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John and Marian Barth" <hopi at charter.net>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 20:08:44 -0500
Subject: Riley engined Healey for sale
Hi group,
I currently have a Riley engined Healey that I am planning to sell. It is 1949
and 1 of 23 built. It is the Sportsmobile body, the rarest and most expensive
of all body styles. The design eventually became the Austin Healey 100. About
8 are left in the world. Hand built, all alloy body. Restored about 1981 with
about 15,000 miles after restoration. Car is in Wisconsin U.S. E-mail me at
hopi@charter.net for more information and pictures.
John Barth, Wisconsin U.S.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 21:20:04 -0400
Subject: [Fwd: SCOUTS BILL PENDING IN CONGRESS!]
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: SCOUTS BILL PENDING IN CONGRESS!
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 17:39:56 -0700
From: "Harry N. Hirschensohn" <askharry@pacbell.net>
To: <Undisclosed-Recipient:;;>
This is a good cause.
KEN
> + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
> VOTE ON SCOUTS BILL PENDING IN CONGRESS!
>
> Join the 284,990 who have already signed the
> petition supporting the Boy Scouts:
>
> http://www.grassfire.net/scouts.asp?PID=963360
>
> Dear friend of the Boy Scouts,
>
> Attacks against the Scouts continue, but thankfully a new bill
> has just been introduced in Congress to protect the Scouts from
> discrimination.
>
> It's called the "Boy Scouts of America Equal Access Act," and
> Grassfire.net is gathering petitions in support of the Scouts to
> send to Congress right away!!
>
> A friend of yours has already signed this petition and has
> forwarded this message to you. Now, it's your turn to take a
> stand and watch your impact grow with Grassfire.net's
> breakthrough online service. Click here to sign:
>
> http://www.grassfire.net/scouts.asp?PID=963360
>
> Our goal is to deliver enough petitions to Congress to rally
> support for a bill called the "Scouts Equal Access Act." This
> bill will become law only if a groundswell of support demands
> that the Boy Scouts be protected!
>
> It takes just minutes to sign the petition and start your very
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>
> Please sign today.
>
> Grassfire.net
> "Real Impact. Real Feedback. Real Results."
>
> P.S. We want to increase this petition drive to 350,000 as soon as
> Possible so please take a moment right now to add your name to the
> 284,990 who have already signed!
>
> http://www.grassfire.net/scouts.asp?PID=963360
>
> ----------- COPYRIGHT 2000 by Grassfire.net.
> The information herein and the breakthrough interface are
> the property of Grassfire.net and may not be used or
> duplicated without permission. "Grassfire.net" and "Grassfire
> Link" are trademarks of Grassfire.net. Patent Pending
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 20:16:11 -0600
Subject: servo
Just got my servo back from Power Brake exchange. It looks beautiful. Can't
decide whether to bolt in on the car or hang it on the wall.
yah I know but does it work. Let you know some day in the distant future.
Sid 65 bj8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 23:42:51 -0400
Subject: Brake squeal
Evening Listers,
As some of you may recall I have been dealing with brake squeal from the front
brakes on the BN7 for a few months. For over a year there was none. The
calipers were rebuilt and rotors turned 1500-2000 miles back. I tried the
gooey stuff between the pistons and pads and it worked most of the time, but
wanted a permanent fix.
I made nonstandard-shaped brake shims out of .024 stainless stock. (The
correct stuff is more like .015) They work perfectly if there is only
occasional braking. However, if I get into several brakings I get some
squeal. Any thoughts as to why?
Thanks for any replies.
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 21:00:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Brake squeal
Keith -
buy the shims from moss/victoria british or any other
supplier. They're not expensive and take only a
second to install. I think moss sells original style
shims.
Perhaps the shims you've put on are not offset. That
should take care of the problem (i.e., shims should be
smaller than the pad - if they're the same size as the
pad, you still might get some squeal).
regards,
Alan
--- Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
>
> Evening Listers,
>
> As some of you may recall I have been dealing with
> brake squeal from the front
> brakes on the BN7 for a few months. For over a year
> there was none. The
> calipers were rebuilt and rotors turned 1500-2000
> miles back. I tried the
> gooey stuff between the pistons and pads and it
> worked most of the time, but
> wanted a permanent fix.
>
> I made nonstandard-shaped brake shims out of .024
> stainless stock. (The
> correct stuff is more like .015) They work
> perfectly if there is only
> occasional braking. However, if I get into several
> brakings I get some
> squeal. Any thoughts as to why?
>
> Thanks for any replies.
> Keith Pennell
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 21:01:54 -0700
Subject: Re: HD8'S carb choke return problem
Which, of course, I considered.
None yet.
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "JustBrits" <justbrits@home.com>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: HD8'S carb choke return problem
> <<I put stiffer springs on the top of the shaft with the cam "foot" at the
> bottom. This helps,
> though sometimes I have to "snap" the choke an extra time to get the choke
> levers to
> return.>>
>
> Which, of course Bob, will lead to premature wear on parts, huh?
>
> Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 23:08:21 -0700
Subject: Steering Problems
Hey Guys,
I am hoping someone can give me an idea of what to look for .. or
perhaps to learn from a similar experience. The car is a recently
rebuilt (including front end) Longbridge BN4
Here is the short version of the problem:
After some driving 'I live about 26 miles from work and down a very
tight and twisty road' the steering gets restricted to one side. It
is the strangest thing ... when I get in it steers fine but as the
turns get tighter and the miles get longer the steering gets stiffer
to one side. the really strange thing is that it ONLY affects one
side .. when the problem first rose its ugly head it was only left
hand turns ... then for some reason it became right hand turns?
Longer version:
So this is how it 'feels' ... as I am driving it usually only happens
on the twisty pieces of road (which makes it more dangerous) and as I
go through the turns I begin to feel resistance on the right hand
turns .. as it gets worse to a point where I literally have to force
the wheel past a point and then it frees up past that point and to
straighten up again I have to force it back through that point
..meanwhile the left hand turn is as nice as pie and smooth all the
way back to straight. It gets so bad that I have to REALLY force the
wheel and it gets stuck in the right hand turn and I have to quickly
jam it back?
I have looked for something catching and cannot see anything .. it
feels as though the arm is reaching a point and I have to force it
against whatever is stopping its movement against its own spline?
I have no idea and I am sure it will involve pulling the box apart.
I am having a professional look at this in a few weeks but it is
getting dangerous now and I thought I would mention it to the list.
Please let me know if this is not clear ... it is a strange thing to
explain.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Rohan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 08:08:03 +0100
Subject: Re: MGCs
Steve
>
>I understood the MGC 6 cyl was a 7-main update on the Healey engine.
I was told something different. The MGC did have 7 mains but was not an
update but an in-house competitor designed in Australia I believe. I
suspect that this was yet another example of weak international top
level management in BMC et al.
All the best
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Magnus Karlsson" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 09:31:32 +0200
Subject: SV: Cam timing
BJ 8 Cam spec:
Valve lift: .368"
Inlet: opens 16 degrees BTDC, closes 56 degreess ABDC
Exhaust: opens 51 degrees BBDC, closes 21 degrees ATDC
The cam should be degreed at 110 degrees ATDC when No 1 inlet is fully open.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Jowett" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 10:16:54 +0100
Subject: Re: Steering Problems
Hi Rohan
It is possible one of the ball bearings has come out of the rear race in
the steering box and gone up between the inner and outer column. I have seen
this on quite a few Healey boxes. As the ball works its way around it digs
into the inner column shaft and wears a grove.
I would take the box out and have some one who knows about them check it
out.
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
AUSTIN HEALEY - MG - TRIUMPH - JAGUAR
ASTON MARTIN
www.ukhealey.co.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 08:59:33 -0600
Subject: servo
Power Brake Exchange warranties 1 year on parts and labor.
Sid, bj8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rogier van der Mast" <rvdm1 at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 17:14:40
Subject: 100 AHX11
Somebody asked about the prototype 100
http://www.cotswoldclassics.co.uk/sales/009.htm
The usual. No interest, just browsing the site.
Rogier
_________________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dwbradbury at ra.rockwell.com
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 12:48:49 -0500
Subject: BCNH (usa) - Show of Dreams, June 17 (long)
British Cars of New Hampshire & High Hopes Foundation
It's that time of year again, and plans for the Show of Dreams V are well
underway. Our goal of making it bigger and better than ever is well within
reach. The success of this Sunday, June 17th, charity event at the High
Hopes Balloon Festival in Milford, NH, depends not only upon BCNH member
participation, but upon guest club turnout as well.
Pre-registration has already begun, and neighboring clubs are invited! Our
club has experienced outstanding member participation in the past, but it's
the steady stream of new cars and new faces that make this event special
for us and for the High Hopes Foundation.
As always, all proceeds from our show are donated to High Hopes, which
grants wishes to seriously ill children throughout the state. High Hopes
makes dreams come true for dozens of children each year, and BCNH is proud
to support this cause. Your registration fees and raffle contributions
will help grant smiles to children who truly deserve the opportunity to
experience a dream come true.
This annual show has enabled BCNH to donate $5000 last year, and we'd like
to set a new record this year. The most popular wishes from the kids
include trips to Disney World, therapeutic bicycles/equipment, and
computers. Your participation can help make it happen. What better reason
could there be?
This year we are proud to offer the following fourteen: Austin-Healey; MG
TD, TF, and TC; MGA; MGB (Chrome Bumper); MGB (Rubber Bumper); TR2, TR3,
and TR4; TR6; TR7 and TR8; Jaguar XK and E type; Jaguar Sedans; Land Rover;
Other, Pre-1960 Vintage Classics; Other, 1960 to Present; and Best of Show.
Nicely-designed plaques will be awarded to the top three cars per class,
with a trophy for Best of Show. Our lovely four-color dash plaques and a
goody bag will be given to the first 100 cars registered. And we're putting
together another monster raffle. A separate special raffle includes
Winston Cup tickets for the NHIS September event. As always, there are
enough balloon festival activities to fill a weekend.
The festival begins Friday evening and continues through the weekend, with
attractions like the hot-air balloon glow, balloon flights and
demonstrations, helicopter rides, singers and bands, children's activities,
dancers, and performers. Local lodging is plentiful, including
bed-and-breakfasts and hotels. @ -Milford/Amherst Chamber of Commerce,
(603) 673-4360, and Nashua Chamber of Commerce, (603) 881-8333. Nashua is
a large city, offering many major lodging chains.
Show car registration is $15, and the show will be held from 9:00am to
3:00pm in the parking lot of the Hampshire Hills Sports and Fitness Center
in Milford, NH (same place as always). For pre-registration forms and
information, contact Louis Belanger at (603) 424-7835, or Linda Cagan at
(603) 472-5212, or visit our new web site at bcnh.net
Co-Directors Dave Allen (603) 483-2818 and Frank Williams (603) 895-4135
ps sorry for blasting the list, but it's for a good cause
Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 10:54:51 -0700
Subject: RE: Steering Problems
At 7:26 AM -0500 5/18/01, Kocik, Stephen W wrote:
>Hi,
> It may be a long shot.. but if you have had the front end re-built..
>check that the air flow shrouds in front of the radiator are attached
>properly.. One of your ball joints could be hanging up on it when you are
>turning in that direction.. the clearance on these is pretty tight.
>
> Steve
> 61BN7
>PS.. thanks for all the responses on the hydraulic trouble.. I'll post the
>fix as soon as I finish.
>
Thanks for all the responses ... there are quite a few theories and I
suspect that the box will have to come apart ... I will be having a
professional look at this in a few weeks but was keen to get it
resolved before that since it is a dangerous situation .. not to
mention I have to drive it to the workshop.
Feel free to keep suggesting things to look at .. I will post whatever I find.
This one about the air shrouds has come up before, yes I do have them
fitted .. and I have looked at it .. in fact this is was my first
thought and preference for the problem since it is an easy fix. I
cannot see any signs of rubbing or wear though .. and by the time I
jack it up to have a look there is so much clearance due to the jack
it is almost a waste of time looking.
Thanks guys .. this is a valuable resource.
Rohan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 11:14:56 -0700
Subject: BN1 (3 sp.) laygear bushes
SC Parts says that the laygear bushes are no longer available. Does
anyone know where I might find a set? There is a front and rear bush.
Healey parts book part numbers are: 1F 3372 and 1G 3292
SC Parts part numbers were: SC3911 and SC 3912
I suspect that it is possible for a good machinist to make up a set as
well as to ream them to fit the layshaft, but I am still hoping to
find the bushes ready made.
Thanks,
-Roland
'53 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 15:36:04 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 (3 sp.) laygear bushes
Hi Roland,
Most bearing supply houses carry a huge selection of bronze bushes, one of the
largest manufacturers is Boston Bronze.
I bet that you could find one that can be cut to length and used.
I have a catalogue. If you send dimentions I will see what I can find.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> SC Parts says that the laygear bushes are no longer available. Does
> anyone know where I might find a set? There is a front and rear bush.
>
> Healey parts book part numbers are: 1F 3372 and 1G 3292
> SC Parts part numbers were: SC3911 and SC 3912
>
> I suspect that it is possible for a good machinist to make up a set as
> well as to ream them to fit the layshaft, but I am still hoping to
> find the bushes ready made.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Roland
> '53 BN1
> .
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 23:05:05 -0400
Subject: Re:Gas Leak
I have been fortunate to be and drive a friend's early BN4. The problem
was that gas was seeping up through the sending unit when the tank was
filled. He installed a new gasket, screws, and copper washers, but the
problem still persists, although not as bad. Any ideas? TIA.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 18:23:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Re:Gas Leak
In a message dated 5/18/01 3:08:52 PM, dwflagg@juno.com writes:
<< I have been fortunate to be and drive a friend's early BN4. The problem
was that gas was seeping up through the sending unit when the tank was
filled. He installed a new gasket, screws, and copper washers, but the
problem still persists, although not as bad. Any ideas? TIA.
Happy Healeying,
Doug >>
Just fixed that myself. You'll want take the sender out and straighten the
mounting flange as good as posible, then get some gasket sealer that is safe
for gasoline applications. Put some of that on both sides of the big rubber
gasket and then screw the sender on without overtightening. Let the sealer do
the work because once the flange is bent, it's really hard to get the gasket
to seal.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 18:54:21 -0400
Subject: Happiness is...
A NOS Tudor water bottle 2.14"and a jack handle for a Shelley Jack LJ
21. If anybody has seen any one of the two items recently, please
contact me. It would make me a very happy Healey Club member.
Cheers,
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 00:55:34 -0400
Subject: Re:Sending Unit Gasket
Would anyone know of a source for a rubber or neoprene impregnated cork
petrol tank sending unit gasket? TIA.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 21:35:16 EDT
Subject: 100/brakes-solved
Prior complaint:
'Have redone brakes, bled them, they never work on the first stroke, but
always do on the second stroke. Re-bled, no bubbles. Repeat, still no
bubbles, but still do not work on the first stroke.'
Problem solved. I feel so dumb. Front brakes way out of adjustment. Just
as you suggested Ed. Now stops properly with no pumping required.
I do intend to follow up on the other steps.
Thank you all. Bill Huck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 21:51:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Gas Leak
I had the same problem after installing a new tank. The problem was that the
screw holes in the new tank were not tapped all the way through. It felt
like the screws were tight but they weren't squeezing the gasket tight
enough. A couple of minutes with a tap solved the problem.
Ray G
Colorado
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 00:04:38 EDT
Subject: Battery cable
Hi Listers, Anybody know who sells original looking cloth covered battery
cable? What are you using? Any help is greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
Lanny
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 06:05:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery cable
Lanny:
British Wiring sells cloth covered battery cable (black only) for $4.00 a
foot for 7/16 inch and $6.00 a foot for 1/2 inch. Learn more about them at
www.britishwiring.com. No interest, etc., etc.
John Cope
62 BT7 Mark II
----- Original Message -----
From: <SERVICAR1@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 12:04 AM
Subject: Battery cable
>
> Hi Listers, Anybody know who sells original looking cloth covered battery
> cable? What are you using? Any help is greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
> Lanny
> BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 17:43:14 -0400
Subject: BT7 tailpipes
Thanks to all who resp.
Will use standard type system for longevity and that beautiful sound. (also
ease of installation from my point! ) Sometimes Healey owners think those
tailpipes are just too small looking and forget all the good stuff under the
bonnet that makes it go !
Carroll Top Down
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 18:15:01 -0400
Subject: Lillibridge 100S
Just spent the day putting the first 40 miles on Bill Lillibridge's 100S
AHS3007.. What a delight. The restoration is a credit to all who
contributed to the effort.
Check it out at:
http://www.bklillibridge.com
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 20:42:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Radio BJ8
I installed an antennae made to be temporarily mouned on a rain gutter but
instead attached it to my rear bumper bracket and ran an extension antennae
cable from it, under the chassis and up thru the firewall to the radio. It
works great, looks good and can quickly remove it for shows. I bought it at
Radio Shack. Gary S.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 00:30:28 -0400
Subject: Re: reamers
Well, I've learned a new skill...
Yesterday, my machinist showed me how to ream bushings. We took my rocker
shaft
.. and compared it to a brand new Moss rocker shaft.. The old shaft was larger
than the new one!!! (old shaft: 0.8112, new shaft 0.80955...) but the old shaft
was in very sorry shape. It had lots of wear on the underside of where the
rockers rub against the arm, and each oilway was somewhat ground into the shaft.
Further there was scoring around the edges of where the rockers touched the
shaft...
So, I dismantled the shaft and let Cheryl (my machinist's daughter... a very
talented machinist in her own right .. with 23 years experience!!!) do some
measurements. She determined that to get the correct clearance (as you say
.0005 to .0025) we'd need to shoot for .811055 That would give us .0010
clearance. She had to leave and do a photo shoot (she is also a professional
photographer) so her father and I prepared the shaft and bushings. Turns out
that the bushes Moss provides are a nice tight fit for the rocker arms, but they
have a lot of excess material to be removed. Jack (my machinist) prepared a
jig
sized to match the rocker arm bushing seats. Then he press fit each bearing
into
the jig and using a lathe, he bored them to within .0001 of our target size.
(He
tried to get to .0001" so that I didn't have to hone for 1 hr to get the size
right.... I ended up honing for about 15-20 minutes per arm..)(took me a long
time because of my amateur status I guess) He then pressed the bearings out of
the jig and pressed them into the arm (with an intermediate step by me where I
followed Roger Moment's advice and predrilled the "arm" hole. The bearings
were
pressed into the arm with the pre-drilled hole aligned with the arm. (Yes, we
did account for the offset of the oil groove in the bush.) Jack prepared a jig
for me to mount the fresh bearings under a drill press. All I had to do was to
slip the bearing onto the jig and drill/chamfer the hole in one step... pretty
neat.
So, once the bearings were pressed into the arm, Jack gave the assembly to me to
do the final sizing. He had a reaming/honing machine that would let you adjust
the hole size. Cheryl had set it up for me. It had a dial indicator kind of
sensing tool mounted beside it that would measure the exact inside diameter of
the hole. I could hone a little and then do a measurement. Being careful to
avoid "bell" shaping the rocker arm bushings ("belling" is what Jack called it
when the two mouths of the bushing were a larger size than the middle of the
bushing... it happens if you don't keep the bushing moving on the honing tool or
if you apply asymetric pressure on the bushing as the honing takes place.) It
took a light touch and a couple of arms before I was getting the bell shaping to
a minimum of .00003" (yep... no typo there 0.00003")... I got to be tolerably
good at this, but I note that an expert can hit the mark within 0.00001" !!!).
Then I honed each of the rockers to give me a clearance of .0010, +.0008 or
-.0002"... Although I did have two rockers that ended up with some belling and
with clearances of .0020 at their outside edges... (As I said above, it took me
about 15-20 minutes per arm... mostly because I had to stop and check my
progress
a lot, I gather that an experienced machinist can do this job much quicker...
but it still requires being meticulous...)
All in all, I left very convinced that reaming/honing the rocker bearings was an
exacting process (It took me about 2.5 hrs to do 12 rockers)... However, I also
left convinced that I had a pretty tight rocker arm assembly.
After installation in the engine, I'm sure I have a nice tight rocker assembly.
It looks great. Each of the seep holes (which I drilled with a 1/16 inch
drill
... per spec) was oozing oil, and the pressure was sitting at around 50 lbs....
at 2500 RPM and dropped to 41 lbs at idle...(this after 1/2 hour warm up..)
However, I noted that the one rocker that has only .0008" clearance isn't oozing
much oil... Next time I'll keep the minimum to .0010 (not the .0005 that is
called for in the manual...that is too tight, in my opinion)
So.. I now know about adjustable reamers???.. Actually, I guess I know about
honing tools... (I want one because it is such fun to get the machining to such
tight tolerances, but I think I'll pass on the purchase and just go over to
Jack's place whenever I find myself needing one...).. Reamers still elude me,
but
I'm not conviced one needs a reamer unless one is really in a production shop.
For the one-off things we tend to do, a good metal lathe and the honer that I
used ought to do fine.
Anyone have other similar experiences?
-Skip-
HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> The size is not the same as the king pin bushings. It is also very
> important that you keep the clearance to a minimum there should be
> approximatly .0005 to .0025 clearance on the rocker arm bushings. If you have
> excessive clearance you will have a low oil pressure / burning oil problem.
> The inside diameter for the rocker arm bushing is .8115 to .8125. You must
> also remember that there are two oil supply holes in the shaft that must be
> in the correct position to oil the push rod tip and the valve stem.
>
> We have recieved some bushing that the oil groove in the bushing has been
> to long or to short, be sure and check this on the new bushings that you are
> installing.
>
> There are tapered adjustable reamers available but they are a expensive
> tool for a one time use.
>
> We have rebuilt complete rocker assemblys available with both original
> and tuftrided shafts.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 10:04:10 -0400
Subject: Spare Tire Fitting for a BJ7
Hi Listers,
I am doing the finishing work on my trunk and spare tire.
does anyone have a picture of how the retaining rod and
its fitments go? The PO didn't think that spare tires were
important so all of the pieces are missing with the exception
of the wood blocks that fit on the back of the rear sit and the fender.
I have covered them in black vinyl.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road......finally
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Richard Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 12:50:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Spare Tire Fitting for a BJ7
------Original Message------
From: tom Blaskovics <u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: May 20, 2001 2:04:10 PM GMT
Subject: Spare Tire Fitting for a BJ7
Hi Listers,
I am doing the finishing work on my trunk and spare tire.
does anyone have a picture of how the retaining rod and
its fitments go? The PO didn't think that spare tires were
important so all of the pieces are missing with the exception
of the wood blocks that fit on the back of the rear sit and the fender.
I have covered them in black vinyl.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road......finally
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
Tom
There is a bracket - 1/8" x 1" bent into a right angle twist - that bolts to
the wooden block that is screwed to the back of the rear seat, and then a
metal rod that engages that steel bracket. The rod terminates in an oval
loop. Then a chrome strap is screwed to the rear shroud just forward of the
place where the shroud begins to curve forward - and in line with the
aforementioned wooden block. Finally there is a leather strap that threads
through the distal end of the metal strap, then through the chrome strap and
back to itself where it terminates in a buckle.
In my BT7 I used a web strap with a spring-loaded buckle.
If you have a Moss catalog handy you will find all of the parts you are
missing on page 132 and I think most of them are available.
DickB
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 13:06:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Spare Tire Fitting for a BJ7
In a message dated 5/20/01 12:53:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dickb01@earthlink.net writes:
> If you have a Moss catalog handy you will find all of the parts you are
> missing on page 132 and I think most of them are available.
>
>
FYI
In the later Moss catalogs AHY-14 & AHY-15 these items are show on page 188
with the description & cost of each on page 189.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 13:09:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Spare Tire Fitting for a BJ7
Tom and Dick,
For the BJ8 leather strap I had a correct buckle but no leather. Went to a
retail clothing store and found a perfect child's belt, about size 22 or so
I recall. Replaced the buckle with the correct one. Works and looks
perfect.
Similar story on the BN7 strap except I needed about a size 46 or so.
Retail store did not have what I needed. Found a remnant piece of plain
black leather at a leather shop. Ripped it to width on my band saw (lots of
teeth for smooth cut), used black shoe polish to dress up the sides, cut the
needed holes for the buckle, installed the grommets and buckle, and done.
Keith Pennell
>Finally there is a leather strap that threads
> through the distal end of the metal strap, then through the chrome strap
and
> back to itself where it terminates in a buckle.
>
> In my BT7 I used a web strap with a spring-loaded buckle.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 13:36:12 EDT
Subject: It's a small world
Magnus,
I just returned from the Bluegrass Austin Healey Club's Springthing held in
Lexington. KY
Friday morning almost all had gone to a nearby site for the Gymkhana and I
was back at the hotel changing a faulty generator on the Rally Car when three
Swedish gentleman approached me.
Seems they were on their way to Mammoth Cave and spotted my car and stopped
to look. One of the owners (sorry, missed his name) has three Healeys (2
100"s and BT7) and knows you. When I explained that 50 more Healey's were
just down the road his eyes lit up.
his buddies wanted to head off to visit the caves but were persuaded to stop
in at the gymkhana first. You can always see rocks but 50 Healeys is worth a
special trip.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MegCC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 14:07:36 EDT
Subject: British Car Week Cruise Night
All those in the area of Wyckoff, NJ are invited to bring their British car
to the Wednesday night cruise held in the parking lot of the Wyckoff Motor
Vehicle office located behind the Boulder Run shopping Center. The cars
begin to gather about 6:30 pm and stay to about 9:00pm. The night is 5/23.
No prizes, no awards just some fun and nice people.
Joe
BN1#923, BJ8, V12XKE
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Charles N. Hall" <hallc at vianet.on.ca>
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 14:08:56 -0400
Subject: Crankshaft main bearings
To all:
I am rebuilding a 3000 engine and have had the crank turned to -.010 mains and
rods.
Original mains std. were to be 3.3742 to 3.3747 and they are now 3.365 which I
verified with a micrometer.
New bearing clearance is supposed to be .0013 to .0028"
When I installed the new bearings and torqued them to specs.(75 ft. lbs.) and
checked the clearance with plastigage, I have a clearance of .0045". This is
excessive and not acceptable to me.
The block was not line bored and the bearings inserted correctly into the
block and caps with proper crush. The ends of the shells were protruding the
normal amount as per any engine.(I have rebuilt many engines over the years
and am not new to the business)
In conclusion, I think that the bearings have been incorrectly manufactured.
They were supplied from AH Spares and made in Isreal. I don't yet know how
many production runs were made and so cannot yet determine whether all of the
-.010 mains were the same run or not. (The rod bearings are a different
manufacturer)
Does anyone have, or know of a different manufacturer of -.010 main bearings?
Thanks,
Chuck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 11:58:44 -0700
Subject: Grose-Jet
Does anyone out there know of a place that still sells Grose-Jet
replacements for the needle & seat assembly in SU carbs? Tried to order
some from Moss (they are shown in the Moss catalog), and was told that they
had not been able to get any since 1999. Need 3 for the tri-carb I'm
restoring. TIA
John Snyder
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 12:17:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Crankshaft main bearings
Good Grief! My day was shot after reading the message below. I just took
delivery of some 0.010" under rod and crankshaft bearing inserts from Moss,
and they also were made in Israel.
These inserts have not yet been unwrapped. The box for the mains reads
"COUNTY England CB 4161 010 Made in Israel ENB 01/00" on one end and "MB
460CP 010" on the other end. Are we talking the same crap here?
Can anyone tell me the correct thickness for 0.010" under rod and main
inserts? I will mic these before I spend the time installing them.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Charles N. Hall <hallc@vianet.on.ca>
> To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Crankshaft main bearings
> Date: Sunday, May 20, 2001 11:08 AM
>
>
> To all:
>
> I am rebuilding a 3000 engine and have had the crank turned to -.010
mains and
> rods.
> Original mains std. were to be 3.3742 to 3.3747 and they are now 3.365
which I
> verified with a micrometer.
> New bearing clearance is supposed to be .0013 to .0028"
> When I installed the new bearings and torqued them to specs.(75 ft. lbs.)
and
> checked the clearance with plastigage, I have a clearance of .0045".
This is
> excessive and not acceptable to me.
> The block was not line bored and the bearings inserted correctly into the
> block and caps with proper crush. The ends of the shells were protruding
the
> normal amount as per any engine.(I have rebuilt many engines over the
years
> and am not new to the business)
> In conclusion, I think that the bearings have been incorrectly
manufactured.
> They were supplied from AH Spares and made in Isreal. I don't yet know
how
> many production runs were made and so cannot yet determine whether all of
the
> -.010 mains were the same run or not. (The rod bearings are a different
> manufacturer)
>
> Does anyone have, or know of a different manufacturer of -.010 main
bearings?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 16:02:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Grose-Jet
In a message dated 5/20/01 3:00:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
johnahsn@olypen.com writes:
> Does anyone out there know of a place that still sells Grose-Jet
> replacements for the needle &
Hi John-
You might want to check with Inan Phillips at Healey Surgeons <
www.healeysurgeons.com> as they have Grose jets listed in their 2001 catalog
under part # FUL-060.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Andrew Shrimpton" <andrew at hickeycontractors.co.nz>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 08:31:30 +1200
Subject: Inlet Manifolds
I am fitting twin HD8 carbs ( and BJ8 cam) to my BT7.
Can anyone tell me if I can safely open out the existing inlet
manifold to 2", or will I need a new manifold?
Thanks
Andrew Shrimpton
60 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 16:54:56 -0500
Subject: No LBC, BUT,Try This On Your Next Car Trip]
> A police officer pulls a guy over for speeding and has the following
> > > exchange:
> > >
> > > Officer:
> > > May I see your driver's license?
> > >
> > > Driver:
> > > I don't have one. I had it suspended when I got my 5th DUI.
> > >
> > > Officer:
> > > May I see the owner's card for this vehicle?
> > >
> > > Driver:
> > > It's not my car. I stole it.
> > >
> > > Officer:
> > > The car is stolen?
> > >
> > > Driver:
> > > That's right. But come to think of it, I think I saw the owner's card
> in
> > > the
> > > glove box when I was putting my gun in there.
> > >
> > > Officer:
> > > There's a gun in the glove box?
> > >
> > > Driver:
> > > Yes sir. That's where I put it after I shot and killed the woman who
> > owns
> > > this car and stuffed her in the trunk.
> > >
> > > Officer:
> > > There's a BODY in the TRUNK?!?!?
> > >
> > > Driver:
> > > Yes, sir.
> > >
> > > Hearing this, the officer immediately called his captain. The car was
>
> > > quickly surrounded by police, and the captain approached the driver
> > > to handle the tense situation:
> > >
> > > Captain:
> > > Sir, can I see your license?
> > >
> > > Driver:
> > > Sure. Here it is.
> > >
> > > It was valid.
> > >
> > > Captain:
> > > Who's car is this?
> > >
> > > Driver:
> > > It's mine, officer. Here's the owner' card.
> > >
> > > The driver owned the car.
> > >
> > > Captain:
> > > Could you slowly open your glove box so I can see if there's a gun in
> > it?
> > >
> > > Driver:
> > > Yes, sir, but there's no gun in it.
> > >
> > > Sure enough, there was nothing in the glove box.
> > >
> > > Captain:
> > > Would you mind opening your trunk? I was told you said there's a body
> in
> > > it.
> > >
> > > Driver:
> > > No problem.
> > >
> > > Trunk is opened; no body.
> > >
> > > Captain:
> > > I don't understand it. The officer who stopped you said you told him
> you
> >
> > > didn't have a license, stole the car, had a gun in the glovebox, and
> > that
> > > there was a dead body in the trunk.
> > >
> > > Driver:
> > > Yeah, I'll bet the lying s.o.b. told you I was speeding, too
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 18:31:36 -0700
Subject: Veering Sensation
Hi,
While driving my Hundred I've noticed a strange sensation. When I jump on the
gas, it feels like the rear-end veers to the right? AND when I suddenly let off
on the gas in at high rev's it veers a little left. The front end doesn't move,
the steering is fine but there just this "drift" in the rear.
I've just broken in a high output engine but I can't imagine a few more horses
would do this...
What's up with that?
Brian Mix
22305 Parkwood St.
Lake Forest, CA. 92630
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 18:59:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Veering Sensation
Brian -
this is very similar to a question that someone posted
a week ago. Sounds like you have a problem somewhere
in your rear hubs.
Chances are your:
1. Rear spline hubs are loose on the axle hub. Take
your rear wheels off and see if the splines are
properly nutted & seated to the axle... the
wheel/spline nuts are probably coming loose. This is
a relative easy fix. Use new nuts every time you seat
the spline to prevent this problem in the future.
if you have an early 4 stud axle BN1, you should also
check:
2. your rear hub bolts. Early BN1s with the spiral
Bevel axle had a somewhat weak design in which the
spline/wheel mounting bolts, after some use, have a
tendency to strip out of the bearing hub. If this is
the case with your car, you probably have to get a new
replacement hub (i.e. good used one... ;-)). Check to
see if the the spline hub is mounted flush to the
brake drum, if not, the mounting bolts are loose. If
it isn't flush to the brake drum even if the nuts are
tight, then the hub itself is your problem. this
quick check might not diagnose the problem, however,
the best is to take off the rear brake drums and see
if the mounting bolts are loose or can be twisted by
hand. If so... BINGO! Pray that #1 is the problem -
it's easier and cheaper to fix.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> While driving my Hundred I've noticed a strange
> sensation. When I jump on the gas, it feels like the
> rear-end veers to the right? AND when I suddenly let
> off on the gas in at high rev's it veers a little
> left. The front end doesn't move, the steering is
> fine but there just this "drift" in the rear.
>
> I've just broken in a high output engine but I can't
> imagine a few more horses would do this...
>
> What's up with that?
>
>
> Brian Mix
>
> 22305 Parkwood St.
> Lake Forest, CA. 92630
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 21:01:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Veering Sensation
Brian Mix wrote:
> Hi,
>
> While driving my Hundred I've noticed a strange sensation. When I jump on the
>gas, it feels like the rear-end veers to the right? AND when I suddenly let
>off on the gas in at high rev's it veers a little left. The front end doesn't
>move, the steering is fine but there just this "drift" in the rear.
>
>
I'd bet on loose rear leaf springs. Check for tightness of the nuts on the
shackles.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 06:13:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Pars, Etc.
Does anyone have good used original securing bolts for the spare tyre
blocks? Also, does anyone know the exact date of the event in Bowie this
June? TIA.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Richard Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 01:31:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Veering Sensation
------Original Message------
From: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: May 21, 2001 1:31:36 AM GMT
Subject: Veering Sensation
Hi,
While driving my Hundred I've noticed a strange sensation. When I jump on
the gas, it feels like the rear-end veers to the right? AND when I suddenly
let off on the gas in at high rev's it veers a little left. The front end
doesn't move, the steering is fine but there just this "drift" in the rear.
I've just broken in a high output engine but I can't imagine a few more
horses would do this...
What's up with that?
Brian Mix
22305 Parkwood St.
Lake Forest, CA. 92630
Brian
I think you'll find that the U-bolts that tie the rear axle to the leaf
springs loose, i.e. the nuts are not tight --probably on the Right side,
--allowing the axle to move slightly to the rear on acceleration and
forward on.decelleration. Thus the rear axle gets angled from a right angle
to your direction of travel.
Take off your right rear wheel and check the four nuts under the plate
beneath the spring, to which the U-bolts attach. I think you'll find them
loose enough to allow the axle to slide forward and backward slightly - and
I think you'll find visual indications on the upper surface of the spring.
Then do the same thing to the other side.
DickB
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 11:24:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Veering Sensation
Brian , check your rear springs they are probably loose. What you have
designed is four wheel steering, when you get on the gas the rear end shifts
and makes the rear of the car go to the right making the car go left. When
you get off the gas the rear end shifts the other way making the car go to
the right.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 16:23:53 +0100
Subject: Fuel overflow at number one carb.
Yesterday I noticed that no.1 carb (HD6) was overflowing slightly
from the plastic pipe. It had done so before but I thought I'd
fixed it for good..........
So, I checked the lever arm and adjusted the gap somewhat. Seemed
to fix it - no overflow.
Tried her just now - leaked again. Only a little, but that's too
much.
...always the same carb and no particular rhyme or reason to it
that I can detect.
Hence the email!
Thanks,
Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 08:49:35 -0700
Subject: RE: Fuel overflow at number one carb.
Simon,
Did you take the float out and shake it? To me, leaking floats are more
common with today's gas than sticky or dirty needles and seats.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 08:57:50 -0700
Subject: RE: Veering Sensation
Check the center bolt in the rear spring plate that it isn't broken or
loose.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 12:15:06 -0400
Subject: Brake problem
As preparation for the upcoming drivers parade for the F1 race in
Montreal, I volunteered to check my friend Gerard's BJ8, which had st
for the winter months. After topping up the usual fluids and
checking hub splines etc. I adjusted the rear brakes, turning this
way and that, no more than 1/2 a turn in either direction. While
moving the car back and forth during the check up Gerard noticed his
brake pedal go from spongy to no pressure at all, the brakes finally
going almost completely. I looked into the reservoir and found no
brake fluid in the middle tank. My question is, and I kind of know
the answer; since Gerard has never maintained his car well, is: can
my fooling around with the adjusters alone be responsible for this
sudden loss of brakes or, is he due for a master/caliper/cylinder
rebuild?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 12:23:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel overflow at number one carb.
I always adjust the float level so that the gas level, with piston
chamber off and pump running, is 1/8" below the bridge of the carb.
Following the procedure in the manual can have less than desireable
results.
Bill Huck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 12:30:12 -0400
Subject: Lillibridge 100S
It is a very nice car and it's history is fascinating. Was your lucky
day to get to drive it.
Unless you already own a 100S! Eh?
My lucky day comes up June 10th, when a very nice man from the Quibec
club will let me drive his 100/4 in the F1 Grand Prix driver's
parade. We will be showing off 22 Austin-Healeys to the world, with
cars coming mostly from Quebec, and three guests from the US. Great
exposure for the Healey marque, and hat's off to Roger Hamel, who
organized the event for a second consecutive year.
Cheers,
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 12:39:31 -0400
Subject: Brake Problem
The car has no servo unit in its usual position. I suppose it was
rebuilt sans servo.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 12:47:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Veering Sensation
I had this problem on an MG. The problem was the the U-bolts holding the the
leaf springs to the rear axel housing were loose. New U-bolts solved the
problem.
Ray G
Colorado
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 13:24:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel overflow at number one carb.
I had this happen once when I had a fuel pump that delivered too much
pressure. The floats could be adjusted to shut off flow but after a bit of
driving one or more carbs was flooding again. Installing a pressure
regualtor was a waste of time and money. The answer was a fuel pump with
lower output pressure.
Ray G
Colorado
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 15:08:42 -0400
Subject: Splined hubs-splined wheels
I need advice from the wire wheel experts out there.
Being on a bit of a shoe string budget, I had my wire wheels
re-built, and was told that the splines were fine....but at the end
of last season I noticed some play (in the rotation movement) on
three out of four
wheels, or hubs. When swapping them around, I found I had play on
three hubs, but all four wheels were tight and snug on the front
right hub. This would seem to indicate that the wheels were OK, but
three hubs were worn. I purchased three new hubs fom A&H spares(I
know, I will get the fourth soon!) and have only just got around to
putting them on, and getting the car ready for spring.........the odd
thing is, that there is still some play on the two new hubs I've
installed (the rears), and the wheels are all fine on that front
right hub. So, what gives? How much play is acceptable? Why is there
more play on two new hubs, than that one old one?
Stephen, BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 15:23:02 -0400
Subject: Re;Re: Splined hubs-splined wheels
Bill, I had the hand brake on , and I'm pretty certain, but I'm going
to take another look just because of wishful thinking.
Stephen BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 12:53:07 -0700
Subject: British Car Week
It's 102 today. Do I have to drive my British car tomorrow?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 16:02:09 EDT
Subject: Cape International Rally Bumpers
Has anyone on the list purchased the rally bumpers from Cape International?
If so, did you have any problems with fit of the brackets? Interference with
the truck lid? Have you contacted Cape International? If so, what was their
reaction/solution?
Jerry Hay
BT 7 [Without the Rally Bumpers]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 16:29:09 -0400
Subject: Fw: Big Healey wanted
Somebody out there in Healeylistland might know of such a car. If so,
please respond directly to Mr. Le Clainche.
Thanks, and Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jacques Le Clainche" <jleclainche@home.com>
To: <u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>; <byers@cconnect.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 9:23 PM
Subject: Big Healey wanted
> I am looking for a late model big Healey- a restored driver, if possible.
> Ideally, it would have a Toyota five speed transmission conversion. I hope
> to find such a car at or under $25,000. If you know of any car available
> within 300 miles of San Diego, please let me know. I will be able to
travel
> further after June 15 (start of my vacations) if the right car comes up.
>
> Jacques Le Clainche
> SCCA 1985 Mazda Spec RX-7 #44, San Diego region
> VARA 1960 Austin-Healey Sprite #4, F Production
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SAINTADUB at aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 17:00:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Cape International Rally Bumpers
Hi Jerry,
I have these so called Rally bumpers on my BT7 using modified original bumper
brackets and Frogeye bumpers and it looks great, an envious friend of mine
has bought the Cape kit and he has not report to me any difficulty to adapt
them on its BJ8
regards
Philippe
France
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mjsprite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 17:41:15 EDT
Subject: Rear Axle Hub Nut
Listers,
I need to replace an axle seal in my '69 Sprite. What size socket do I need
to buy to remove and install the axle hub nut? Also what is the torque
setting on this nut, its not listed in my manual.
Thanks,
Mike
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 18:12:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel overflow at number one carb.
I wonder why. They've always done the job for me, and
racers are doomed without them.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Installing a pressure
> regualtor was a waste of time and money. The
answer was a fuel pump with
> lower output pressure.
>
> Ray G
> Colorado
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 18:44:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Splined hubs-splined wheels
Stephen
Don't forget that there is some play at the rear wheels due to the accumulated
tolerances in the entire gear train - tranny, U-joints, rearend ring and pinion,
etc.
I assume you have your car in gear when you are mounting your wheels. Try
putting on the emergency brake Hard and then check again, and make SURE the play
you feel is between the hub and the splines.
BTW when you found the one front wheel without play didn't you have someone with
their foot on the brake hard? Otherwise how did you stop the wheel from
rotating on the spindle?
I would think the majority of wear is always on the Splines rather than on the
Hub.
Try again using the brakes hard and you may get lucky.
DickB
Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> I need advice from the wire wheel experts out there.
> Being on a bit of a shoe string budget, I had my wire wheels
> re-built, and was told that the splines were fine....but at the end
> of last season I noticed some play (in the rotation movement) on
> three out of four
> wheels, or hubs. When swapping them around, I found I had play on
> three hubs, but all four wheels were tight and snug on the front
> right hub. This would seem to indicate that the wheels were OK, but
> three hubs were worn. I purchased three new hubs fom A&H spares(I
> know, I will get the fourth soon!) and have only just got around to
> putting them on, and getting the car ready for spring.........the odd
> thing is, that there is still some play on the two new hubs I've
> installed (the rears), and the wheels are all fine on that front
> right hub. So, what gives? How much play is acceptable? Why is there
> more play on two new hubs, than that one old one?
> Stephen, BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Tomsimkins at aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 19:53:31 EDT
Subject: Archives
Hello,
Can someone mail me off the list the address for the archives. I tried
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=healeys
which I thought got me there before, but I can't seem to connect now.
TIA,
Tom
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 18:53:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Splined hubs-splined wheels
Stephen
No sooner did I send my answer than I realized that we may have a bit of a
terminology problem here.
I said "splines" referring to the splines on the hubs themselves , I'd call them
"hub splines"- which I think are more likely to wear badly and wear first.
The wheel splines should hold up better.
DickB
Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> I need advice from the wire wheel experts out there.
> Being on a bit of a shoe string budget, I had my wire wheels
> re-built, and was told that the splines were fine....but at the end
> of last season I noticed some play (in the rotation movement) on
> three out of four
> wheels, or hubs. When swapping them around, I found I had play on
> three hubs, but all four wheels were tight and snug on the front
> right hub. This would seem to indicate that the wheels were OK, but
> three hubs were worn. I purchased three new hubs fom A&H spares(I
> know, I will get the fourth soon!) and have only just got around to
> putting them on, and getting the car ready for spring.........the odd
> thing is, that there is still some play on the two new hubs I've
> installed (the rears), and the wheels are all fine on that front
> right hub. So, what gives? How much play is acceptable? Why is there
> more play on two new hubs, than that one old one?
> Stephen, BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 20:08:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Pars, Etc.
Hi, Doug -
Bowie is June 24th. Although for the last several years they have been
threatening to move the show someplace else, it will still be in Allen Pond
Park.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 6:13 AM
Subject: Re: Pars, Etc.
>
> Does anyone have good used original securing bolts for the spare tyre
> blocks? Also, does anyone know the exact date of the event in Bowie this
> June? TIA.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 20:22:44 -0400
Subject: BT7 parts needed
Hey all,
Need a good used (orig) header rail with decent chrome latches and a pass
side exterior (LHD) door handle again w/ decent chrome.
You can contact me off list at bjcap@frontiernet.net
Will gladly pay shipping to New York state ( within U.S. please)
Thanks Carroll Phillips
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 20:34:20 EDT
Subject: faulty generator ??
My generator stopped generating last week on the BN4 and I limped into
Springthing, Drove back to Louisville that night with a friend and borrowed
the generator from his car for the weekend.
I had a voltmeter and it showed no output from the generator. The brushes and
springs look fine. I have had it rebuilt before and who knows how many times
it has been rebuilt in the cars life. Is there a limit on how many times you
can rebuild these things?
It goes to the rebuilder tomorrow but I was wondering, any electrical types
on the list that can guess what happened? Any way I could have made an
emergency repair on the road? What exactly do rebuilders do?
Meanwhile I had sent the BJ8 over with the friends wife who owns the
generator I am now using. She liked the drive so much (first drive in a big
Healey) she instructed him to order the parts to finish the car. (He owes me
for that one!)
Then Gerry and Marion Coker used the BJ8 for touring on Friday, quite an
honor! Saturday, Charlie and Paulette Lownsdale used it for the rally.
Sunday, 17 year old Ben Moore got to drive it home 70 miles for his first
drive of a Big Healey.
Thanks to all who came to Springthing! See you at Septemberfest in June!
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 21:09:44 EDT
Subject: BN1/oil cooler
Moss sells generic oil coolers, 11" x 3" to 5.75". They also sell a kit
complete with thermostatted bypass. Has anyone had experience witht hese
units? Bill Huck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 22:24:44 -0400
Subject: Brake problem-more info
As preparation for the upcoming drivers parade for the F1 race in
> Montreal, I volunteered to check my friend Gerard's BJ8, which had st
> for the winter months. After topping up the usual fluids and
> checking hub splines etc. I adjusted the rear brakes, turning this
> way and that, no more than 1/2 a turn in either direction. While
> moving the car back and forth during the check up Gerard noticed his
> brake pedal go from spongy to no pressure at all, the brakes finally
> going almost completely. I looked into the reservoir and found no
> brake fluid in the middle tank. My question is, and I kind of know
> the answer; since Gerard has never maintained his car well, is: can
> my fooling around with the adjusters alone be responsible for this
> sudden loss of brakes or, is he due for a master/caliper/cylinder
> rebuild?
This car has no servo, I guess it was rebuilt without one , at last
there is none where the servo should be, so the fluid must have gone
somewhere else. Since only the middle (clutch) reservoir is empty,
and the clutch works fine, could the adjustment of the brakes have
affected the pedal that much?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 20:16:31 -0700
Subject: BN7 armrest
When I purchased my BN7 it did not have an armrest. I am having
Heritage make one, but I would like to ask for the measurement between
the vertical bulkhead at the rear of the prop shaft tunnel and the
back edge of the armrest so I may correctly position it. Thanks.
Bruce
bsteele2@pacbell.net
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 20:32:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
Hi Gary,
How's the recuperation going?
At 08:48 PM 2/15/01 -0500, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>...In any case, anyone who would like me to email a MS Word file of the
>corrections and additions, please email me and I'll send it to you.
While on Amazon.com for something else the other day, I found they still
had your and Roger's book in stock, so I finally broke down and ordered a
copy. It arrived tonight and looks excellent.
Whenever you get a chance, can you please send me the corrections?
Thanks,
Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, California
Vice President/Membership Coordinator
Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
Editor, Healey Hearsay <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 20:32:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Brake problem-more info
Alain -
Sounds like your lines are connected to the reservuir
backwards. If the centre of the reservoir is empty
but the clutch works and you have no brakes - the
lines are switched.
fill up the reservoir and then park the car on a clean
surface somewhere. pump the brakes a little and pump
the clutch. Look on the floor under the car for
leaks. If there are no leaks on the ground, check in
the footwell in front of the pedals.
once you find the leak, you'll find the problem.
Adjusting the rear brakes will not cause a leak...
unless you loosened the rear hydralic lines by mistake
rather than moving the drum adjusters. Hydralic lines
are to the rear of the car on the back of the drums,
adjusters are to the front of the car on the back of
the drums.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Alain Giguhre <agig@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> As preparation for the upcoming drivers parade for
> the F1 race in
> > Montreal, I volunteered to check my friend
> Gerard's BJ8, which had st
> > for the winter months. After topping up the usual
> fluids and
> > checking hub splines etc. I adjusted the rear
> brakes, turning this
> > way and that, no more than 1/2 a turn in either
> direction. While
> > moving the car back and forth during the check up
> Gerard noticed his
> > brake pedal go from spongy to no pressure at all,
> the brakes finally
> > going almost completely. I looked into the
> reservoir and found no
> > brake fluid in the middle tank. My question is,
> and I kind of know
> > the answer; since Gerard has never maintained
> his car well, is: can
> > my fooling around with the adjusters alone be
> responsible for this
> > sudden loss of brakes or, is he due for a
> master/caliper/cylinder
> > rebuild?
>
>
>
> This car has no servo, I guess it was rebuilt
> without one , at last
> there is none where the servo should be, so the
> fluid must have gone
> somewhere else. Since only the middle (clutch)
> reservoir is empty,
> and the clutch works fine, could the adjustment of
> the brakes have
> affected the pedal that much?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 20:58:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
Oops, didn't mean to Cc the list. Disregard.
Sorry,
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 00:11:09 EDT
Subject: Website almost partial upgrade
Hi list,
I've just uploaded a bunch more pictures of my car through various stages,
making the Wilko's Healey Progress page more about progress. Has a bit more
chronology to it. Most of the pics are real small with links to come later.
Of current interest are the Lamp Brackets and Rally overrider kit for the
rear from Cape-international.
There are comparison shots of the Mota Lita vs Derrinton Style wheels, and 15
X 6 Minilites with 195/60 tires.
http://members.aol.com/wilko
Thanks for looking,
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 21:25:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
Rick:
I'll send them to you, off-line.
Ron Rader
Rick Snover wrote:
> Hi Gary,
>
> How's the recuperation going?
>
> At 08:48 PM 2/15/01 -0500, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> >...In any case, anyone who would like me to email a MS Word file of the
> >corrections and additions, please email me and I'll send it to you.
>
> While on Amazon.com for something else the other day, I found they still
> had your and Roger's book in stock, so I finally broke down and ordered a
> copy. It arrived tonight and looks excellent.
>
> Whenever you get a chance, can you please send me the corrections?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick
> --
> Rick Snover, San Diego, California
> Vice President/Membership Coordinator
> Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
> Editor, Healey Hearsay <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 22:04:16 -0700
Subject: Re: British Car Week
Ken: As punishment for missing my tour to the Towe Museum, and I don't
recall seeing you at Dixon All British yesterday, you must drive your LBC
every day this week.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 12:53 PM
Subject: British Car Week
>
> It's 102 today. Do I have to drive my British car tomorrow?
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lynn and Jean Neff" <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 03:36:15 -0500 (Central Daylight Time)
Subject: Buffer/Polisher
I'd like some input from those of you that use a buffer for waxing/polishing.
I recall that Editor Gary had something in his magazine a few months ago...but
I can't put my hands on it now.
Anyway, what should I be looking for? Features? Brands? Cost? Where to
purchase?
I'm thinking this would be a great Fathers Day gift for me.
Thanks.
Lynn BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 13:47:20 +0200
Subject: Re: faulty generator ??
Subject: faulty generator ??
<snip>
> I had a voltmeter and it showed no output from the generator. The brushes and
> springs look fine. I have had it rebuilt before and who knows how many times
> it has been rebuilt in the cars life. Is there a limit on how many times you
> can rebuild these things?
<snip>
>Any way I could have made an
> emergency repair on the road? What exactly do rebuilders do?
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> jamesfwerner.com
Hi Jim,
although NOT an electrician.. I have had my generators rebuildt twice.
One was completely "gone".. and had to be rewound. No. two had lousy bearings
and brushes. So I guess what rebuilders do, depends on whats broken/fawlty more
than anything else.
Is there a limit to the lifespan of a generator? One of the rebuilders told me
there was. If the "collector" was "gone", only a new generator would do, he
told me. The brushes make contact on the collector, and would wear out
eventually. Could be other rebuilders have an answer for this too, mine had
none.
The third generator (my first on a Healey), I overhauled myself. Pretty easy,
changing the bearings and brushes.
Better safe than sorry, I guess.
IF the generator stops working on the road, there is no quick fix I'm afraid.
Normally there will be a light on your dash. indicating a fawlty gen. before
the car dies on you. You better find a place to park pretty quick. The car will
run as long as there is current on your battery though, provided there is no
shortcircuit in the generator.
Dont know if any of this will help you in any way, just sharing my own
experience.
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 08:47:47 -0400
Subject: Re: faulty generator ??
I believe your rebuilder meant commentater vs. collector. The commutator is
the split copper area at one end of the armature (rotating part). Brushes
wear down from continual contact with the commutator, and the splits between
copper sections of the commutator fill up with old brush carbon and other
dirt and the copper bleeds over into the gap between copper sections. One
fix is to "under cut the commutator" to clean out the built-up trash. We
used to do this with a piece of hacksaw blade cutting into the gap until it
was clean and neighboring copper strips not touching.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 15:28:49 +0200
Subject: Re: faulty generator ??
Subject: Re: faulty generator ??
> I believe your rebuilder meant commentater vs. collector. The commutator is
> the split copper area at one end of the armature (rotating part). Brushes
> wear down from continual contact with the commutator, and the splits between
> copper sections of the commutator fill up with old brush carbon and other
> dirt and the copper bleeds over into the gap between copper sections. One
> fix is to "under cut the commutator" to clean out the built-up trash. We
> used to do this with a piece of hacksaw blade cutting into the gap until it
> was clean and neighboring copper strips not touching.
> Lee
Well..... I guess he SAID commentater/commutator... just my lack of English
words.. *sorry*.
But.. the issue.. being that the commentater/commutator COULD wear down beyond
repair... I guess.....
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 10:18:23 EDT
Subject: Re: British Car Week
Ken,
The evenings are a great time to drive on these hot Northern Cal days. I've
Been out on main street Walnut Creek, Alamo, and Danville the last three
evenings around 7:00 p.m. and it is gorgeous. Erika loves to primp for the
folks eating outside at the sidewalk cafes.
John
100-six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 12:02:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Main bearings
Hi Charles,
This really should be one for Bob as he sold you the bearings!!
However. You need to check the bores for the crank bearings. They should
be 2.521 / 2.5215 " The correct thickness for standard shells is 0.072"
so for 0.010" u.s. shells the thickness should be 0.077"
Attached is a scan of a machining dimentions page from Glacier.
Anyone on the list who wants a copy please contact me off line.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Bearing dimentions 6 cyl.jpg]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john.heffron at ey.com
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 12:52:24 -0400
Subject: Strange noise in the engine compartment
The BJ8 has developed a rather loud "roar" that comes from the front end of
the engine compartment - somewhat louder and higher pitched (but not
squeeling) than the normal running engine and exhaust tone and seems to
vary with engine speed. Does not sound anything like a slipping belt.
Could this be the water pump going? Car still runs at normal operating temp
of 180 degrees with Texas cooler.
Perhaps something in the exhaust system? Am I in danger driving it the 25
miles or so to the repair shop?
Any diagnostic tips are appreciated.
Thanks
John Heffron
1967 BJ8
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for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby
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communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 12:54:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
In a message dated 5/21/01 8:32:39 PM, rsnover@ix.netcom.com writes:
<<
While on Amazon.com for something else the other day, I found they still
had your and Roger's book in stock, so I finally broke down and ordered a
copy. It arrived tonight and looks excellent. >>
The book is in stock most places because, without notifying us, Motorbooks
took
it into a second printing. Unfortunately, that meant that none of the
revisions that
we were hoping would be incorporated in the second printing were used. So the
second
printing has all the mistakes of the first. However, we do have a MS Word
file of
the corrections, as well as a number of additions and clarifications for
anyone who
wants it. Just email me and I'll send it to you.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Co-author
Authentic Restoration Guide to the Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 13:11:50 EDT
Subject: Re: faulty generator ??
In a message dated 5/22/01 4:45:55 AM, seel@online.no writes:
<< The car will run as long as there is current on your battery though,
provided there is no shortcircuit in the generator.
Dont know if any of this will help you in any way, just sharing my own
experience. >>
In my first year of Healey hobbying, I was touring with a group and came to a
halt when my battery ran out of juice. A quick check showed that my
generator wasn't functioning. In order to get me home, we pulled a battery
out of another car and put it in mine, then put mine in that car and
push-started that car. Thirty minutes down the highway, we swapped the
batteries back and I was able to drive the rest of the way home using my own,
now recharged, battery. Fortunately, at that time I was driving a BT7. Would
have been tough if I was driving a two-battery car.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 13:24:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Buffer/Polisher
In a message dated 5/22/01 1:39:02 AM, lynnneff@springnet1.com writes:
<<
I'd like some input from those of you that use a buffer for waxing/polishing.
I recall that Editor Gary had something in his magazine a few months ago...but
I can't put my hands on it now.
Anyway, what should I be looking for? Features? Brands? Cost? Where to
purchase?
I'm thinking this would be a great Fathers Day gift for me.
Thanks. >>
Main factual point: the two companies that sell the "random orbital polisher"
-- Griots Garage and Meguiar's -- actually are selling a Porter Cable Random
Orbital Sander/polisher. In addition, when you buy it from them, they
include two polishing pads, one softer, one firmer, that attach to the
polishing disc on the sander/polisher with velcro. Really slick.
Incidentally, while getting the polisher, you also get an orbital sander,
complete with a dust hose.
If you have access to Porter Cable tools, you can save a little money by
buying the sander/polisher directly from that source, then buying the pads
and polishes/waxes from Griot's or Meguiar's.
Personally, I think it is terrific and have been using it on all my cars ever
since the companies asked me to test it.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 13:32:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
Congratulations anyway. There are countless books that never get to the
second printing. To do so must mean that you have a real success on your
hands.
(I hve two -- my kids gave me one for Christmas -- they should know by now
that I snap up these things as soon as they come out!)
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <rsnover@ix.netcom.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 12:54 PM
Subject: Re: Corrections to the Healey Restoration Book
>
> The book is in stock most places because, without notifying us, Motorbooks
> took
> it into a second printing. Unfortunately, that meant that none of the
> revisions that
> we were hoping would be incorporated in the second printing were used. So
the
> second
> printing has all the mistakes of the first. However, we do have a MS Word
> file of
> the corrections, as well as a number of additions and clarifications for
> anyone who
> wants it. Just email me and I'll send it to you.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Co-author
> Authentic Restoration Guide to the Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 13:29:58 EDT
Subject: The Adventures of Ol' Red & British Car Week
The Adventures of Ol' Red & British Car Week
by Scott G. Helms
There once was a proud little shiny British car,
It was painted bright red and could be seen from afar.
The paint was brand new and the leather was fresh,
The mechanics were as tight as a clockmakers best.
Its owner was as happy as a man could be,
Because when he drove his little British car he felt so free.
Every time the two of them set out for who knows where,
They knew they could forget about their worldly cares.
They shifted through the gears with such great finesse,
And where they'd end up would be anyone's guess.
A loop-dee-loop here and a hairpin turn there,
The straight-aways were a rev-counter redline dare.
That old farm tractor-like engine would grunt and groan,
It would rattle the wall hangings inside any nearby home.
The roarty exhaust could be heard for many country miles,
It appeared to provide the lonely farm animals with some much-needed smiles.
The beautiful green landscape was a sight to behold,
Their bountiful journeys were full of stories to be told.
The road ahead was full of hidden treasures,
And theyd always choose the twisty roads just for good measure.
But then one day the owner heard a funny noise.
And put Ol' Red away in a dark place where it would lose its happy poise.
The lights were turned off and the fresh air was all but gone,
What was intended to be days turned into a period much too long.
Those long days turned to weeks, the weeks turned to months,
The months turned to years, and when Ol' Red would see daylight again wasn't
even a hunch.
All dusty and dirty, and so full of cobwebs,
Red spent years and years in that musty dark shed.
Most of his daily activity was watching two mice,
Crawl around the interior and eating away at his fuzzy dice.
The owner found other things to do with his spare time,
Twas about as exciting as collecting old dimes.
Then one day while flipping through British Car Magazine,
The owner saw a date for the annual British Car Week that took place during
the spring.
Ahhh, he could remember those days when he and Red had so much fun,
And he knew all he needed was a little bit of time to get some repairs done.
He could envision the fun of shifting gears,
Something he hadn't done in too many years.
The heel and toe driving skill that he had perfected,
He now felt real bad about the car he had neglected.
The warm summer breeze on his sun-kissed face,
A wonderful feeling that could never be replaced.
The beautiful blue sky provided by you know who from above,
Its all part of that great feeling of being as free as a dove.
Ol' Red took him places he'd never been before,
He owed that car dearly and now it was time to restore.
The next thing you know Ol' Red was being towed,
To a nearby place where he saw other cars in the same broken-down mode.
The sun was now beaming on its bright but faded red paint,
At last it was time to prove himself again and he just couldnt wait.
The warmth felt so good while the sun beamed its rays upon it,
Ol' Red knew he was being saved when the mechanic popped his bonnet.
The mechanic replaced this and then he adjusted that,
Then finally the fluids were changed and he was given a brand new thermostat.
With a simple turn of the key, and the starter button a poke,
The old tractor engine fired up with a bellow of black smoke.
The fire inside the engine was like a hot furnace blast,
And the owner hopped into the cracked leather seat with his heart pumpin'
fast.
The roarty exhaust reminded everyone within an earshot,
That this old car was still hotter than hot.
Given this second chance, he'd make his owner so proud,
And everywhere theyd go he'd draw a large crowd.
Even though Ol Red was much older than ever before,
He was now a classic and that meant much more.
Now they were having more fun than ever,
And they truly appreciated their restored life together.
Theyve made a commitment they promise not to sever,
Thats to celebrate British Car Drivers Week and pray for good weather.
British Car Drivers Week is the last full week of May every year
May 19 27, 2001
http://members.aol.com/trmgafun/britishcarweek.html
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 11:55:13 -0600
Subject: RE: Buffer/Polisher
Hi,
I've been dropping in on an autobody painting BBS now and then and they seem
to consistently favor the Makita 9227C because of its constant-speed
governor control and very low-RPM capability which is important when cutting
and buffing paint.
If you are inclined towards the Porter-Cable product, check to see if there
is a factory service store in your area. Here in the SF Bay Area, there is
such a store in Hayward and they sell refurbished tools as well as display
units that have never been used but can't be sold as "new". I have bought
from them and the discounts are substantial.
Regards,
Adnan
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 20:12:22 +0200
Subject: Re: faulty generator ??
> << The car will run as long as there is current on your battery though,
> provided there is no shortcircuit in the generator.
> Dont know if any of this will help you in any way, just sharing my own
> experience. >>
> In my first year of Healey hobbying, I was touring with a group and came to a
> halt when my battery ran out of juice. A quick check showed that my
> generator wasn't functioning. In order to get me home, we pulled a battery
> out of another car and put it in mine, then put mine in that car and
> push-started that car. Thirty minutes down the highway, we swapped the
> batteries back and I was able to drive the rest of the way home using my own,
> now recharged, battery. Fortunately, at that time I was driving a BT7. Would
> have been tough if I was driving a two-battery car.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
Yes... this will work... but NOT on modern cars... ;))
You can NOT push-start a car with an alternator..( I guess thats the proper
word for an "AC-generator..;))
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 14:15:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Strange noise in the engine compartment
Hi John,
I would guess a water pump bearing or a generator bearing. If there is
play on the fan it will be the water pump.
The easiest way to check the generator is to remove the belt and spin
the pulley.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 20:15:37 +0200
Subject: Re: Strange noise in the engine compartment
Subject: Strange noise in the engine compartment
> The BJ8 has developed a rather loud "roar" that comes from the front end of
> the engine compartment - somewhat louder and higher pitched (but not
> squeeling) than the normal running engine and exhaust tone and seems to
> vary with engine speed. Does not sound anything like a slipping belt.
>
> Could this be the water pump going? Car still runs at normal operating temp
> of 180 degrees with Texas cooler.
Yes.. this may well be the waterpump... had that noise in my car... the
bearings on my water-pump where shot.
Although... I tried almost everything else before I bought a new water-pump...
;) (Including the overhaul of my generator)
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 11:26:18 -0700
Subject: Re: faulty generator ??
> Yes... this will work... but NOT on modern cars... ;))
> You can NOT push-start a car with an alternator..( I guess thats the proper
>word for an "AC-generator..;))
> Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
I hate to be contrary but I push started my FIAT X1/9 for a year in collage. I
couldn't afford a starter. It
had an alternator. In fact that was the only part on that car that didn't
break. I think as long as the
battery has any juice you can run the fields on an alternator.
Brian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RanBullard at Clearchannel.com
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 15:35:14 -0400
Subject: SEARCH
Hi gang.
I'm new to this list but not new to Big Healeys. I've restored a few but
that was MANY years ago when everything was much less expensive, (and the
cars and I were younger). After driving up to the All British Sports Car
Show in Dixon, CA this past weekend and seeing lots of beautiful Healeys,
I've got the bug again. Soooo.... I'd like to find a BJ8 to restore. I'm a
gearhead, so much of the fun of owning a car is working on it . Does anyone
know where I might find a neglected '67 BJ8, phaseII in rolling, not
necessarily running condition? Please respond off the list to:
ranbullard@clearchannel.com.
Thanks!
Ran Bullard
Director of Engineering
Clear Channel Santa Barbara
414 E. Cota St.
Santa Barbara, CA 93101
(805) 879-8309 office
(805) 879-8430 fax
(805) 689-9743 cell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 15:38:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Strange noise in the engine compartment
Hi, John -
If not the water pump, then perhaps the generator. I once had a generator
start to fail while 50 miles from home. It started as a slight vibration,
progressing to a roar, then a howl. The generator was still pumping
electrically, but there was bronze powder around the blower and the bearings
were gone. If you can't see any evidence of powder, then check for
excessive movement of the generator blower. Overtightening a belt during
installation (as I did) will lead to bearing failure.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <john.heffron@ey.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 12:52 PM
Subject: Strange noise in the engine compartment
>
> The BJ8 has developed a rather loud "roar" that comes from the front end
of
> the engine compartment - somewhat louder and higher pitched (but not
> squeeling) than the normal running engine and exhaust tone and seems to
> vary with engine speed. Does not sound anything like a slipping belt.
>
> Could this be the water pump going? Car still runs at normal operating
temp
> of 180 degrees with Texas cooler.
> Perhaps something in the exhaust system? Am I in danger driving it the
25
> miles or so to the repair shop?
>
> Any diagnostic tips are appreciated.
> Thanks
>
> John Heffron
> 1967 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 22:13:25 +0200
Subject: Re: faulty generator ??
Subject: Re: faulty generator ??
> > Yes... this will work... but NOT on modern cars... ;))
> > You can NOT push-start a car with an alternator..( I guess thats the proper
>word for an "AC-generator..;))
> > Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
> I hate to be contrary but I push started my FIAT X1/9 for a year in collage.
>I couldn't afford a starter. It
> had an alternator. In fact that was the only part on that car that didn't
>break. I think as long as the
> battery has any juice you can run the fields on an alternator.
>
> Brian
Brian,
ANY "JUICE" being the operative words here..... It still WOUNT work on a FLAT
battery.. I might not have made that 100% clear..
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 16:38:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Buffer/Polisher
> Main factual point: the two companies that sell
> the "random orbital polisher" -- Griots Garage and Meguiar's -- actually
> are selling a Porter Cable Random Orbital Sander/polisher.
>
> Just a clarification: the Porter Cable Orbital Sander they use is the
> larger model that is right angle drive. It's still a five inch pad but a
> more powerful motor. I tried using my palm type Porter Cable Sander and it
> did not have enough power to buff using the pads that I bought from my
> local Meguiars dealer.
>
> Seems like a nice system though and a good reason to buy another
>
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 20:10:38 EDT
Subject: Conclave 2001 (Minnesota)
I'm planning on arriving in Grand Rapids, MN on Sunday, 7/7. I live a bit to
the east of Washington, DC and dividing the trip (about 1400 miles) into
three days and two nites on the road I get the first stop to be somewhere to
the west of Cleveland and the second around Madison, Wisconsin for a late
afternoon arrival on Sunday, the day of check-in. I'd be interested in
hearing from any other folks who are heading out with a similar schedule and
route in mind.
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 20:18:15 EDT
Subject: Re: faulty generator ??
In a message dated 5/22/01 11:11:45 AM, seel@online.no writes:
<< Yes... this will work... but NOT on modern cars... ;)) >>
So who drives a modern car?
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 18:07:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Strange noise in the engine compartment
John -
Another thing to check is the generator bush. Ask
yourself this question: when was the last time you
oiled your generator bush? If you can't answer that
question, then that's probably your problem.
Put oil in the generator bush hole, and if the noise
goes away temporarily, then that means you've worn out
your bush and you will have to replace it.
If putting in the oil gets rid of the whine, chances
are 90% you can probably drive it 25 miles to the
repair shop with no damage to the gen. Better off if
you fix it yourself, however.
It's a relatively easy fix to replace. Let me know if
that's your problem, then I'll tell you how to get the
old bush out.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- john.heffron@ey.com wrote:
>
> The BJ8 has developed a rather loud "roar" that
> comes from the front end of
> the engine compartment - somewhat louder and higher
> pitched (but not
> squeeling) than the normal running engine and
> exhaust tone and seems to
> vary with engine speed. Does not sound anything
> like a slipping belt.
>
> Could this be the water pump going? Car still runs
> at normal operating temp
> of 180 degrees with Texas cooler.
> Perhaps something in the exhaust system? Am I in
> danger driving it the 25
> miles or so to the repair shop?
>
> Any diagnostic tips are appreciated.
> Thanks
>
> John Heffron
> 1967 BJ8
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bill at whwoodruff.com
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 19:44:14 -0700
Subject: RE: Re: faulty generator ??
Just for your info, I went through quite a struggle a few years ago
trying to get a generator I had rebuilt to work properly on a 3000 Mk
III. The generator would not 'prime' itself, or establish the magnetic
field properly. The frustrating thing was that it would work fine once
you applied 12 volts (from the battery) to the field. However, if you
shut down the engine and restarted it, the generator again would not
work.
As it turns out, the problem was that the commutator, the part of the
armature where the brushes contact, was worn unevenly and it did not
make sufficient contact with the brushes. The resistance was such that
the generator was not able to produce enough current to feedback to the
field. The solution was to mount the armature in a lathe and recut the
commutator. (Once that is done, you need to scrape the insulators
between the copper contacts so that they are below the copper surface.)
So, the moral of the story is that in a pinch, you might try manually
priming the field with battery voltage. Also, if you can't get a
rebuild to work, you might have to smooth the surface of commutator so
that it will mesh with new brushes.
Bill W.
One other clue, which I now know indicates poor contact between the
brushes and armature, was a fair amount of sparking at the brushes
after I manually primed the field.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "R. C. Brown" <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 08:12:07 -0500
Subject: Junk MGB and Austin BJN7
(From the Spridget list)
So I get to work today, planning on finishing a brief (certiorari on a
zoning appeal; trust me, you don't want the gory details) when I get a
call from a buddy, asking if I want to look at some cars. He hauls me
out into the untamed wilds of west central Iowa, where we look at a mid-
to late 60's MGB, and a mid to late 50's Austin Healey (Healy?). Both
were parked in a orchard for untold numbers of years, and have the
attendant problems of rusting from the ground up.
The MGB is only worth parts; good windscreen, top frame, chrome, perhaps
the gauges, and the wire wheels. Some trim missing. Don't know if the
engine turns over. Non-OD gearbox. No floorboards, or lower wings.
Most of rockers gone. Sagging. Moss and other fungus everywhere.
The Austin is a bit better. I think its a 100-6 (body number begins with
BJN7, whatever that means). Engine looks complete, has OD switch on
dashboard. Gauges looked to be in decent shape. Has a hardtop with
curved plexiglass (plexi is out and lying inside, age-clouded). Bonnet
has been hacked up (removed a square piece at the leading edge for some
unknown reason). Some trim missing. No floorboards. Glass is starting
to cloud in the lower corners. Body doesn't seem to sag. Might be
salvageable by a really dedicated masochist.
Titles are probably not available.
If anyone has an interest, email me off list and I will look into it. I
suspect that these will go cheap.
Rich -- Council Bluffs, Iowa
'74.5 RB MGB "Miss Maggie"
'79 Midget "Miss Molly"
'86 Ford Crown Victoria LTD "BarcaLounger on Wheels"
richard.arnold@juno.com or rdarnold@neonramp.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 13:22:08 -0400
Subject: Batteries
Can anyone give me the model number for the six volt eared batteries from
Interstate, Sears or whomeever to fit my BN6?
Thanks
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 13:02:55 -0500
Subject: Trafficator
Hi Listers, I'd really like to clean up the insides of my adjustable column
trafficator. It's been hanging on the wall for about 20 years and I'm ready
(finally) to reinstall it. Besides being pretty dirty and dusty, it is in
excellent condition. Can anyone help me with a good way to remove the horn
push and get inside of it without messing something up?? Thanks to all,
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 17:48:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Batteries
In a message dated 5/23/01 10:23:28 AM, healey6@optonline.net writes:
<< Can anyone give me the model number for the six volt eared batteries from
Interstate, Sears or whomeever to fit my BN6?
Thanks
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
>>
Definitely an Interstate Battery; I don't think anyone else supplies them
with the eared top -- though Antique Auto Battery makes a real reproduction
of the original battery, complete with Lucas embossed on sides. More
expensive -- much -- and requires you fill it with battery acid -- bit of a
pain.
Your Interstate dealer ought to be able to figure out which batteries you
need. There aren't very many six-volt auto batteries in their line anymore.
Just have him have the truck bring out one type and if its the wrong one,
have him get the other one.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 16:49:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: what is plastigage?
Reading about Charle's bearing problem prompts me to ask what this
plastigage stuff is. Can you help?
Incidentally I am rebuilding my 3000 engine with the same main and
rod bearings from Moss and the same size (10/10)...
Francois
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 20:25:09 EDT
Subject: Texas Kooler
I have purchased a 'Texas Kooler' fan and found that two parts do not fit my
BN1. I am unable to locate the supplier. Can anyone help? Bill Huck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bill at whwoodruff.com
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 17:30:10 -0700
Subject: RE: what is plastigage?
Plastigage is pretty handy stuff. Its a very thin rod of waxy plastic
that you put between two parts when you want to measure their
clearance. When you assemble the parts, the plastigage rod gets
crushed and spreads out. Measuring the crushed width with a calibrated
scale gives you the clearance. Available at fine auto parts stores
everywhere :)
Bill W.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fwildi [mailto:fwildi@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 4:50 PM
> To: healeys
> Cc: fwildi
> Subject: FW: what is plastigage?
>
>
>
> Reading about Charle's bearing problem prompts me to ask what this
> plastigage stuff is. Can you help?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 17:49:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Texas Kooler
Bill -
Can you be more specific as to what pieces you are
missing? As far as I am aware, the Texas Cooler is
only one piece. If you are having trouble fitting it,
about 10 minutes with a round rasp on the outer edges
of the mounting holes will get you all mounted up.
Maybe your mounting bolts are too long?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- BillHUCK@aol.com wrote:
>
> I have purchased a 'Texas Kooler' fan and found that
> two parts do not fit my
> BN1. I am unable to locate the supplier. Can anyone
> help? Bill Huck
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 18:22:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Texas Kooler
I believe you need a separately sold adapter for the early cars.
-----------------
At 05:49 PM 5/23/2001, International Investor wrote:
>Bill -
>
>Can you be more specific as to what pieces you are
>missing? As far as I am aware, the Texas Cooler is
>only one piece. If you are having trouble fitting it,
>about 10 minutes with a round rasp on the outer edges
>of the mounting holes will get you all mounted up.
>Maybe your mounting bolts are too long?
>
>Alan
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>--- BillHUCK@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I have purchased a 'Texas Kooler' fan and found that
> > two parts do not fit my
> > BN1. I am unable to locate the supplier. Can anyone
> > help? Bill Huck
>Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
>http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 18:32:06 -0700
Subject: Re: what is plastigage?
Plastigage is a very fine thread of plastic that you put in the bearing for
a trial fit. It should be available at your local auto parts place. You
put a strip of it on top of the crank, and torque the cap, remove the cap
and see how much the strip was squashed...package has a measuring guide.
Comes in various thickness, so get the range which is correct for the
clearances you are looking for.
Also, thanks to the data Mike Salter provided, I have mic'ed the bores for
the main bearings in my block, done the math, and concluded that the
bearing inserts which came from Moss will be OK. Maybe a few ten thousands
over what I would like, but not enough to panic over.
John Snyder
----------
> From: francois wildi <fwildi@yahoo.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: what is plastigage?
> Date: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 4:49 PM
>
>
> Reading about Charle's bearing problem prompts me to ask what this
> plastigage stuff is. Can you help?
> Incidentally I am rebuilding my 3000 engine with the same main and
> rod bearings from Moss and the same size (10/10)...
> Francois
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 20:43:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Trafficator
"Brashear, Jack, N" wrote:
> Hi Listers, I'd really like to clean up the insides of my adjustable column
> trafficator. It's been hanging on the wall for about 20 years and I'm ready
> (finally) to reinstall it. Besides being pretty dirty and dusty, it is in
> excellent condition. Can anyone help me with a good way to remove the horn
> push and get inside of it without messing something up?? Thanks to all,
> Jack Brashear
> Little Rock, Arkansas
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
>
> Jack
1) To remove the horn button you insert a thin knife blade under the chrome
surround and pry carefully. The chrome ring and the plastic horn push will come
off. The you will see a copper disc with a raised center. This will fall into
you hand. Under that is a two leaf copper spring that is riveted to the plastic
base. You can see that pressing on the aforementioned disc will depress the two
leaves and cause them to make contact with the two contacts below them.
I assume that the wiring harness is intact and has four wires at its end. Put a
continuity meter on the black wire and the brown/black wire and when you cause
the two leaves to both contact their contacts you should have continuity -
therefore the horn circuit is OK.
Now test for continuity between the black wire and - alternatively - the green
and yellow and the black and the "other" green/--- wire. (The green wires could
be green and white, or green and red or green and blue, depending on the model
of your car), BUT WITH the Trafficator lever to the LEFT, i.e. at 11 o'clock,
one of the two green wires will be in continuity with the black(ground) wire and
the other will be in continuity when the trafficator lever is in the RIGHT, i.e.
at 1 o'clock, position.
If these continuity tests prove OK, you have good wiring at the trafficator and
there is no need to go further. (You job now is to wire the one from the
harness that was "live" at the 11 o'clock position to the left running light (or
turn signal in a BJ8 Phase 2) and rear signal light.
The wiring from the harness is led through the lighting switch on the left inner
fender.
I assume you have a wiring diagram available so you can follow each wire from
the wiring switch control box to each individual light.
The ONLY reason you have to open the trafficator head is if one of the
continuity tests fails.
Access to the "guts" of the trafficator is by removal of the base plate. This
has been covered in detail previously and is in our Archives. It is NOT
necessary unless you find that you have a broken wire, etc.
Re-post an inquiry if you need to get into the "internals" of the trafficator.
Hope this helps.
DickB
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 21:46:29 EDT
Subject: North Texas Healey Club
Does anyone know how to contact this club that sells the Texas Kooler?
Web page, e'mail address, phone #? Thanks Bill Huck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 19:31:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
Those of your who chastised me for cruising around on my 1969 Michelin X
tires will be happy to know that I mounted a set of new Michelin Pilot
XGT-4 195/65R-15 tires today on my 72 spoke wires.
Despite making a substantial part of my living from vehicle accidents as
a California Personal Injury Attorney (thanks to all of you for
preventing the possible demise of a lawyer), I am somewhat in mourning
for the passing of my cracked old Michelin185R-15 friends. They carried
me on many dates while living at the Humboldt State TKE house . . . and
supported both me and a Phi Mu co-ed as we attempted to "do it" inside
my Healey 4-seater after a date one night in front of the sorority
house. Many memories on those tires since I put then on soon after
getting the Healey at age 20.
I should have saved one to mount on the wall.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 21:08:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
Oh dear, that brought a tear to my eye. I'm still
somewhat flabbergasted that a scotsman would let
perfectly good 30 year old tires go... I wonder if
that nice bottle of 18 year old Macallans in Pete's
bar is actually filled with red label... topped off
with a splash of water of course.
I hereby drink a toast to the new tires, and as Burns
once said:
Whilst crack'd and auld, tired and worn,
a new set of michelins I may need
to successfully mount my trusty steed
A BT7 beautiful and primed for the local parade
but alas,
without enough space for mounting the local maid.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Pete Cowper <pcowper@webtv.net> wrote:
>
> Those of your who chastised me for cruising around
> on my 1969 Michelin X
> tires will be happy to know that I mounted a set of
> new Michelin Pilot
> XGT-4 195/65R-15 tires today on my 72 spoke wires.
>
> Despite making a substantial part of my living from
> vehicle accidents as
> a California Personal Injury Attorney (thanks to all
> of you for
> preventing the possible demise of a lawyer), I am
> somewhat in mourning
> for the passing of my cracked old Michelin185R-15
> friends. They carried
> me on many dates while living at the Humboldt State
> TKE house . . . and
> supported both me and a Phi Mu co-ed as we attempted
> to "do it" inside
> my Healey 4-seater after a date one night in front
> of the sorority
> house. Many memories on those tires since I put
> then on soon after
> getting the Healey at age 20.
>
> I should have saved one to mount on the wall.
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Richard Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 06:06:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: [Fwd: Bulbs]
Hi Denny
Sorry you have departed the ranks of the BT7 owners but I hope you scored
and extra $thousand or two because of it having my Halogen Bulbs, and thanks
for the quality endorsment.
I'll mail your bulbs tomorrow. Are you bring your new BJ8 to Conclave?
Regards,
Dick
P.S.Note my new email address - dickb01@earthlink.net
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Bulbs
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 18:30:17 EDT
From: Healeys2@aol.com
To: DICKB@cheerful.com
Hi Richard
Hope you are well and in fine spirits. Dick
I am nearing completion of
my
BJ8 restoration and I am sorry to say that I
let my BT7 go with the old
halogen bulbs. I've not had a problem with
at all in almost 5 years. A
testament to the Quality.I will send a check
tonight.I need one set
2 bulbs for my stop lights.
Hope to see you at
Conclave
Dennis Juul
7561 Corinne
Ct
Roscoe Il.
61073
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 05:27:43 -0500
Subject: No subject was specified.
Hi Denny
Sorry you have departed the ranks of the BT7
owners but I hope you scored
and extra $thousand or two because of it having my
Halogen Bulbs, and thanks
for the quality endorsement.
I'll mail your bulbs tomorrow. Are you bring your
new BJ8 to Conclave?
Regards,
Dick
P.S.Note my new email address -
dickb01@earthlink.net
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Bulbs
Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 18:30:17 EDT
From: Healeys2@aol.com
To: DICKB@cheerful.com
Hi Richard
Hope you are well and in fine spirits. Dick
I am nearing completion of
my
BJ8 restoration and I am sorry to say that I
let my BT7 go with the old
halogen bulbs. I've not had a problem with
at all in almost 5 years. A
testament to the Quality. I will send a check
tonight.I need one set
2 bulbs for my stop lights.
Hope to see you at
Conclave
Dennis Juul
7561 Corinne
Ct
Roscoe Il.
61073
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 08:25:12 -0400
Subject: Re: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
Pete,
>we attempted to "do it" inside
> my Healey 4-seater after a date one night<
In my experience, this is only possible with the top down.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Cowper" <pcowper@webtv.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 10:31 PM
Subject: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
>
> Those of your who chastised me for cruising around on my 1969 Michelin X
> tires will be happy to know that I mounted a set of new Michelin Pilot
> XGT-4 195/65R-15 tires today on my 72 spoke wires.
>
> Despite making a substantial part of my living from vehicle accidents as
> a California Personal Injury Attorney (thanks to all of you for
> preventing the possible demise of a lawyer), I am somewhat in mourning
> for the passing of my cracked old Michelin185R-15 friends. They carried
> me on many dates while living at the Humboldt State TKE house . . . and
> supported both me and a Phi Mu co-ed as we attempted to "do it" inside
> my Healey 4-seater after a date one night in front of the sorority
> house. Many memories on those tires since I put then on soon after
> getting the Healey at age 20.
>
> I should have saved one to mount on the wall.
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 06:52:52 -0500
Subject: Slave cylinder
I received my re-build kit the other day and couldn't wait to do the job.
Of course I had to rip out the interior again, but it does make it much
easier to access the cylinder. After placing a piece of saran wrap over the
reservoir, I loosened the hose to the cylinder and removed it from the
tranny. I reamed it out with sand paper and replaced all the rubber parts,
then bled the system. Actually the job itself wasn't that bad, just time
consuming because of the tunnel removal. It's amazing how a 6 dollar part
can make the car feel so good. I drove her into work today, my gosh what a
pleasure to drive. I had no worries about down shifting or grinding.. I
only saw one other British car today, an S-type Jag, I always wave to them,
I guess the owners are trying to figure out who I am, just by the quizzical
expression on their faces. What a blast the drive into work was today...
can't wait to take her home.. of course I'd feel that way even if I didn't
have the Healey.. ;-)
Steve
61 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 08:06:17 -0500
Subject: Re: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
> I hereby drink a toast to the new tires, and as Burns
> once said:
>
> Whilst crack'd and auld, tired and worn,
> a new set of michelins I may need
> to successfully mount my trusty steed
> A BT7 beautiful and primed for the local parade
> but alas,
> without enough space for mounting the local maid.
Alan:
Funny, I wasn't aware Robert Burns drove a Healey. Must have been an
EARLY one.
But I can say with authority--from long ago--:
If you're young enough,
It can be done,
Even in a BN-1.
Best regards,
Fred
When
Super-shaved
Remember, pard
You'll still get slapped
But not so hard
--Burma-Shave--
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 09:52:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Slave cylinder
" I reamed it out with sand paper and replaced all the rubber parts,
Bad mistake Stephen,
The insideof the aluminium slave cylinder and for that matter all aluminium
brake
and clutch cylinders is anodized. This is a relatively hard wearing but very
thin
surface treatment which prevents the soft amuminium from wearing away in use.
To quote Wagner's Hydraulic Disc and Drum Brake Diagnostic Analysis and
Reconditioning Manual
"Aluminium Bore Clean-up.
Inspect the bore for scoring, corrosion and pitting. If the bore is scored or
badly pitted and corroded the assembly should be replaced. Under no conditions
should the bore be cleaned with an abrasive material. This will remove the wear
resistant anodized surface."
You can always tell when someone has made this muistake because the brake or
clutch fluid quickly becomes cloudy black as a result of the material that is
wearing off the cylinder internal surface.
When the bore wears away like this it does not take loong before the diameter
increases enough for the seal to start pinching between the bore and the piston
and being chewed away.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 10:02:49 EDT
Subject: Re: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
In a message dated 5/24/01 8:27:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
<< In my experience, this is only possible with the top down. >>
Dopug--perhaps if your pants were down as well it might have been easier....
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
(did it in a BN7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 10:19:49 -0400
Subject: Speedvision
Listers:
Just turned on Speedvision (10 AM est). This segment had the 1965 Targa
Florio from italy There was some good road race footage of both big
healey and sprite works cars
Dennis Broughel Bn-4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Harrison, Ian" <Ian.Harrison at li.csiro.au>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 00:44:26 +1000
Subject: FW: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
The look on his face said all to his chase.
His legs lay all twisted and his head badly blistered.
His heel rammed the wheel and his hand not but a feel!
Said Don! "You can't play touchy-feeley in a little tiny Healey
the pleasure's in the driving and not the bloody writhing!"
Anon
-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Hunter [mailto:fhunter@kcnet.com]
Sent: Thursday, 24 May 2001 23:06
To: International Investor
Cc: Pete Cowper; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
> I hereby drink a toast to the new tires, and as Burns
> once said:
>
> Whilst crack'd and auld, tired and worn,
> a new set of michelins I may need
> to successfully mount my trusty steed
> A BT7 beautiful and primed for the local parade
> but alas,
> without enough space for mounting the local maid.
Alan:
Funny, I wasn't aware Robert Burns drove a Healey. Must have been an
EARLY one.
But I can say with authority--from long ago--:
If you're young enough,
It can be done,
Even in a BN-1.
Best regards,
Fred
When
Super-shaved
Remember, pard
You'll still get slapped
But not so hard
--Burma-Shave--
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 08:52:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Slave cylinder
Life is full of learning....thanks Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 9:53 AM
To: Kocik, Stephen W
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Slave cylinder
" I reamed it out with sand paper and replaced all the rubber parts,
Bad mistake Stephen,
The insideof the aluminium slave cylinder and for that matter all aluminium
brake
and clutch cylinders is anodized. This is a relatively hard wearing but very
thin
surface treatment which prevents the soft amuminium from wearing away in
use.
To quote Wagner's Hydraulic Disc and Drum Brake Diagnostic Analysis and
Reconditioning Manual
"Aluminium Bore Clean-up.
Inspect the bore for scoring, corrosion and pitting. If the bore is scored
or
badly pitted and corroded the assembly should be replaced. Under no
conditions
should the bore be cleaned with an abrasive material. This will remove the
wear
resistant anodized surface."
You can always tell when someone has made this muistake because the brake or
clutch fluid quickly becomes cloudy black as a result of the material that
is
wearing off the cylinder internal surface.
When the bore wears away like this it does not take loong before the
diameter
increases enough for the seal to start pinching between the bore and the
piston
and being chewed away.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 08:26:23 -0700
Subject: Re: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
My God the place is full of poets....:-)...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harrison, Ian" <Ian.Harrison@li.csiro.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <fhunter@kcnet.com>; <pcowper@webtv.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 7:44 AM
Subject: FW: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
>
> The look on his face said all to his chase.
> His legs lay all twisted and his head badly blistered.
> His heel rammed the wheel and his hand not but a feel!
> Said Don! "You can't play touchy-feeley in a little tiny Healey
> the pleasure's in the driving and not the bloody writhing!"
>
> Anon
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fred Hunter [mailto:fhunter@kcnet.com]
> Sent: Thursday, 24 May 2001 23:06
> To: International Investor
> Cc: Pete Cowper; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
>
>
>
> > I hereby drink a toast to the new tires, and as Burns
> > once said:
> >
> > Whilst crack'd and auld, tired and worn,
> > a new set of michelins I may need
> > to successfully mount my trusty steed
> > A BT7 beautiful and primed for the local parade
> > but alas,
> > without enough space for mounting the local maid.
>
>
> Alan:
>
> Funny, I wasn't aware Robert Burns drove a Healey. Must have been an
> EARLY one.
>
> But I can say with authority--from long ago--:
>
> If you're young enough,
> It can be done,
> Even in a BN-1.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Fred
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 05:52:08 -0500
Subject: Re: North Texas Healey Club
hi bill-
i handle the kooler sales for the ntahc. either elaborate on your problem with
the kooler by email or call me during the day at 214 202-5179 or in the evening
at 214 607-9353.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
BillHUCK@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know how to contact this club that sells the Texas Kooler?
> Web page, e'mail address, phone #? Thanks Bill Huck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 08:51:15 -0700
Subject: Wiring and Smoke Prevention
Hi Kids
Please confirm my theory, or correct me. I'm rewiring my '59 BN7,
HBN7L1039. The control box has the terminals marked as follows: A1/A/F/D/E
This is the correct control box for my car. HOWEVER the wiring diagram I
have indicates control box terminals as follows: B/F/DWL/E. I think that A1
= the left terminal of B; (that's two brown wires, one to the light switch,
and one to the starter solenoid) A = the right terminal of B; (that's two
brown wires, one to the ignition switch, and one to the fuse unit) F = F; (
a brown and green wire from the generator [field], however it's a laquered
braid yellow wire and green tracer with my harness) D = D; ( a brown and
yellow wire from the generator [stator], which is all yellow on my harness)
D=WL; (a brown and yellow wire to the ignition warning light, which is a
yellow wire in my harness), and E = E, a black ground wire. I'm sure I
could use the rules of Lucas to figure it all out, but I'd like to not make
any mistakes, as this is a beautiful new harness from British Wiring, and I
don't want to let any smoke out of it...
Thanks in advance. With any luck, I'll have this car done for Summer fun!
Martin
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 09:12:23 -0700
Subject: how to stay humble while driving the beast
I recently brought home my BJ8 after an 8 month separation during which time
the car underwent an extensive - just short of ground-up. To say that it
looks wonderful is an understatement. Anyway, I have been logging some
serious weekend mileage throughout the SF Bay Area. Everywhere I go people
stare. They stop me on the street, they wave on the freeway, they yell at me
from the sidewalk - basically I can't park this car anywhere without
attracting a small crowd. Last weekend, I was pulled over by the SFPD for my
"too loud" Monza exhaust system - yeah right. Ever stand next to a passing
herd of Harleys? Well, the guy really just wanted to talk cars. Turns out he
has a TR3 in the shop undergoing similar resto. and he wanted some
referrals.
The dilemma is simple: My wife (especially) and I are kind of embarassed by
all this attention. Exotics and classic cars are a dime a dozen where we
live and I am totally surprized that the Healey evokes such emotional
response from people (besides me of course). I own the car now because it's
the car I couldn't own in 1966 when I first fell in love with it, not
because it will turn heads, impress the neighbors or draw crowds. I've owned
classics before but never had this kind of interest from total strangers.
I'm curious how others handle the attention. If only I looked as cool as the
car :>)
Coop ('66 BJ8)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 11:41:38 -0500
Subject: Re: North Texas Healey Club
Hey Bill,
> Does anyone know how to contact this club that sells the Texas Kooler?
> Web page, e'mail address, phone #? Thanks Bill Huck
This is Tim Moran. I am the web site manager for the NTAHC.
You can see the Texas Cooler and the adapter needed for the 100-4
at our NEW Web Site address, www.ntahc.org.
Click on the "Healey Parts and Misc. Regalia" button. Scroll down for
details for purchasing.
Tim Moran
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 08:52:10 -0700
Subject: Healey alternator conversion
Hi all,
I'm putting an alternator on my 60 BT7 and am hoping that I can get
some help with the wiring. Is there anyone on the list that has done
this and would be able to give me some guidance so that I don't damage
anything. Thanks
Mark Fawcett
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 10:48:49 -0600
Subject: RE: how to stay humble while driving the beast
In a similar vein....
We are in the process of moving from one house to another, only a three mile
distance. I had taken the shrouds and placed them in the "new" garage
while the chassis was still at the old house. Along comes a neighbor and
introduces himself, then peers over my shoulder at the front shroud, visible
in profile, and immediately asks "Is that an Austin-Healey?" At my obvious
surprise at his sharp eye, both he and his wife replied in unison "We're old
enough to have that shape seared into our permanent memory".
Two days ago I rented a tow dolly and was taking the fully restored chassis,
sans body panels, to the house. I was terrified that multiple accidents
would occur as almost every car slowed to stare, with a couple of them even
slipping behind me for a good, long look. Approaching the residence there
were a number of folks out for a walk and it was a strange feeling, like
everyone was frozen in some kind of time-warp, staring.
Needless to say, I had a huge grin on my face the rest of the evening.
Stay humble? I'm going to have to beat the neighbors off with a stick as
they grill me on my progress. Unfortunately, I have a list of house
projects already in place.
Still grinning,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 9:12 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: how to stay humble while driving the beast
>>The dilemma is simple: My wife (especially) and I are kind of embarassed
by
all this attention.<<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 12:56:02 -0400
Subject: Re: how to stay humble while driving the beast
I can't understand why you want to stay humble???? You restored the car; flaunt
it!
Coop1 wrote:
> I recently brought home my BJ8 after an 8 month separation during which time
> the car underwent an extensive - just short of ground-up. To say that it
> looks wonderful is an understatement. Anyway, I have been logging some
> serious weekend mileage throughout the SF Bay Area. Everywhere I go people
> stare. They stop me on the street, they wave on the freeway, they yell at me
> from the sidewalk - basically I can't park this car anywhere without
> attracting a small crowd. Last weekend, I was pulled over by the SFPD for my
> "too loud" Monza exhaust system - yeah right. Ever stand next to a passing
> herd of Harleys? Well, the guy really just wanted to talk cars. Turns out he
> has a TR3 in the shop undergoing similar resto. and he wanted some
> referrals.
>
> The dilemma is simple: My wife (especially) and I are kind of embarassed by
> all this attention. Exotics and classic cars are a dime a dozen where we
> live and I am totally surprized that the Healey evokes such emotional
> response from people (besides me of course). I own the car now because it's
> the car I couldn't own in 1966 when I first fell in love with it, not
> because it will turn heads, impress the neighbors or draw crowds. I've owned
> classics before but never had this kind of interest from total strangers.
> I'm curious how others handle the attention. If only I looked as cool as the
> car :>)
> Coop ('66 BJ8)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 09:53:48 -0700
Subject: Re: how to stay humble while driving the beast
I live in SSF, and while I don't get stopped by cops, I do get lots of nice
compliments (and my car isn't pristine). Even a Roll Royce driver on 280
gave me the thumbs up!
While exotics are very common around here, I don't see that many classics
running around. The occasional Vette, or sometimes a T-bucket, but face it,
Healey's just aren't out and about much, even if there are a lot of them in
garages somewhere.
I say, enjoy the spotlight while you're able. Look at is as planting the
seeds for the future Healey faithful.
bk
----------------------------
At 09:12 AM 5/24/2001, you wrote:
>I recently brought home my BJ8 after an 8 month separation during which time
>the car underwent an extensive - just short of ground-up. To say that it
>looks wonderful is an understatement. Anyway, I have been logging some
>serious weekend mileage throughout the SF Bay Area. Everywhere I go people
>stare. They stop me on the street, they wave on the freeway, they yell at me
>from the sidewalk - basically I can't park this car anywhere without
>attracting a small crowd. Last weekend, I was pulled over by the SFPD for my
>"too loud" Monza exhaust system - yeah right. Ever stand next to a passing
>herd of Harleys? Well, the guy really just wanted to talk cars. Turns out he
>has a TR3 in the shop undergoing similar resto. and he wanted some
>referrals.
>
>The dilemma is simple: My wife (especially) and I are kind of embarassed by
>all this attention. Exotics and classic cars are a dime a dozen where we
>live and I am totally surprized that the Healey evokes such emotional
>response from people (besides me of course). I own the car now because it's
>the car I couldn't own in 1966 when I first fell in love with it, not
>because it will turn heads, impress the neighbors or draw crowds. I've owned
>classics before but never had this kind of interest from total strangers.
>I'm curious how others handle the attention. If only I looked as cool as the
>car :>)
>Coop ('66 BJ8)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 12:17:31 -0500
Subject: RE: how to stay humble while driving the beast
Agreed... The people I hate are the ones that close on your butt real fast
and then ride it to get a better look. Or the ones, when coming in the
opposite direction, inadvertently cross over into your lane as they get a
closer look.. ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: foxriverkid@earthlink.net [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 12:56 PM
To: Coop1
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: how to stay humble while driving the beast
I can't understand why you want to stay humble???? You restored the car;
flaunt
it!
Coop1 wrote:
> I recently brought home my BJ8 after an 8 month separation during which
time
> the car underwent an extensive - just short of ground-up. To say that it
> looks wonderful is an understatement. Anyway, I have been logging some
> serious weekend mileage throughout the SF Bay Area. Everywhere I go people
> stare. They stop me on the street, they wave on the freeway, they yell at
me
> from the sidewalk - basically I can't park this car anywhere without
> attracting a small crowd. Last weekend, I was pulled over by the SFPD for
my
> "too loud" Monza exhaust system - yeah right. Ever stand next to a passing
> herd of Harleys? Well, the guy really just wanted to talk cars. Turns out
he
> has a TR3 in the shop undergoing similar resto. and he wanted some
> referrals.
>
> The dilemma is simple: My wife (especially) and I are kind of embarassed
by
> all this attention. Exotics and classic cars are a dime a dozen where we
> live and I am totally surprized that the Healey evokes such emotional
> response from people (besides me of course). I own the car now because
it's
> the car I couldn't own in 1966 when I first fell in love with it, not
> because it will turn heads, impress the neighbors or draw crowds. I've
owned
> classics before but never had this kind of interest from total strangers.
> I'm curious how others handle the attention. If only I looked as cool as
the
> car :>)
> Coop ('66 BJ8)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 10:16:46 -0700
Subject: RE: how to stay humble while [towing] the beast
> I've owned classics before but never had this
> kind of interest from total strangers. I'm
> curious how others handle the attention.
> Coop ('66 BJ8)
If you notice, I've changed the subject line from "driving" to "towing".
You'll see why.
A few years ago, my father-in-law, realizing he would not get to restoring
his BN1, finally said to me, "come get it". I took a quick trip to Edmonton,
Alberta, Canada (eh) and put it on a uhaul trailer to tow it back to Oregon.
I was not ready for the attention it drew. Within 10 minutes of towing, I
had a beautiful '58 vette following me for a few miles and then pass me
showing 2 thumbs up. Stopped and fueled up for the trip south the next day
and talked to 15 year olds on bikes wanting to know about my "race car" and
70 year olds in RVs telling me all about the Healey they had in the '60s.
And then there was crossing the canadian border. They wanted the paperwork
etc... and within 10 minutes I could go - except now I had to answer all the
questions from the border workers, about 5-6 guys, that wanted to know what
I was going to do with it, etc... I could tell by the way they were looking
it over that THEY wanted to be towing it home.
I hope to pull the engine/transmission this weekend, set it aside, and then
finish stripping the chassis. Yep, ground up.
Brad
55 bn1 226796
http://bradw.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 10:43:47 -0700
Subject: Re: how to stay humble while driving the beast
Coop, it sounds like my story but with different names. I don't know what it
is about the car but people seem to relate, regardless of age. I 've
sometimes thought it was because people could see themselves in something
like this, where as a more exotic was totally out of reach. Then on the
otherhand I've had people with more exotics checking out the car the same
way....so I guess that blows that theory all to hell. Donald did want to
fill a niche with the Austin Healey and I guess he certainly did that. The
lines are so clean and simple how could one not love them. I was driving
down the freeway one day and guy and girl on a Harley went by and she
screams at me....nice @#$%'n car....what do you say but thanks. I guess
smile be humble and say thanks works the best. Your just going to have to
get used to it. I don't even look around at a stop light because I get
embarassed by the stares and when driving down the road I can feel people
pulling ahead and dropping back trying to figure out what kind of car it
is....I know your feeling. Smile be humble and say thanks....Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 9:12 AM
Subject: how to stay humble while driving the beast
>
> I recently brought home my BJ8 after an 8 month separation during which
time
> the car underwent an extensive - just short of ground-up. To say that it
> looks wonderful is an understatement. Anyway, I have been logging some
> serious weekend mileage throughout the SF Bay Area. Everywhere I go people
> stare. They stop me on the street, they wave on the freeway, they yell at
me
> from the sidewalk - basically I can't park this car anywhere without
> attracting a small crowd. Last weekend, I was pulled over by the SFPD for
my
> "too loud" Monza exhaust system - yeah right. Ever stand next to a passing
> herd of Harleys? Well, the guy really just wanted to talk cars. Turns out
he
> has a TR3 in the shop undergoing similar resto. and he wanted some
> referrals.
>
> The dilemma is simple: My wife (especially) and I are kind of embarassed
by
> all this attention. Exotics and classic cars are a dime a dozen where we
> live and I am totally surprized that the Healey evokes such emotional
> response from people (besides me of course). I own the car now because
it's
> the car I couldn't own in 1966 when I first fell in love with it, not
> because it will turn heads, impress the neighbors or draw crowds. I've
owned
> classics before but never had this kind of interest from total strangers.
> I'm curious how others handle the attention. If only I looked as cool as
the
> car :>)
> Coop ('66 BJ8)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:54:01 EDT
Subject: Re: how to stay humble while driving the beast
'been driving my Healey everyday lately. It is British car week.
I usually smile politely at the folks who look, smile, point, wave, etc.
Best story lately about the appeal... I was driving by a swank local
restaurant when as the valet presented the Acura NSX to the curb, the man's
unimpressed date looked over at my Healey and screamed "I like THAT one!"
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 14:22:56 EDT
Subject: how to stay humble while driving the beast
Well, there are so many different aspects of the beast.
It is a piece of history. By driving it, you of course get to enjoy the act
of driving the car for yourself. You are presenting the car to the public.
There may be some pride of ownership that could be a bit embarrassing, but
you can see a shrink to cure that. You are a Healey ambassador when you are
driving the car, so you automatically become a promoter, it's fun. There is
pride if you did any of the restoration yourself, or do any of the
maintenance yourself, nothing wrong with that, most folks out there can't
even change a tire.
Ever notice that it is hard to be in a bad mood when driving your Healey? It
is an opportunity to spread and share that joy.
So, if your truly embarrassed, either see a shrink or send me the car :))
Richard Gordon
The ego is the cars, I am just the driver...
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 14:36:45 EDT
Subject: RE: how to stay humble while driving the beast
I bought my BN4 in 1973 for $350. Needless to say it was not a real looker.
My father, who knows nothing about sports cars borrowed it to go to the store
one day and a local doctor waved him over to the side of the road and said he
had owned one years before and would my Dad let him drive it. Dad followed
the guy home in his Mercedes. He said the doctor was grinning ear to ear the
whole way. First drive for Dad in a Merc, don't know if he has driven one
since.
Scott McPherson
BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 11:46:46 -0700
Subject: Re: how to stay humble while driving the beast
> Hi there ... where about in the bay area? I have a similar story ..
> my car still needs a LOT of work but I have been without it for over
> 6 months and have just finished running it in. Every weekend ..
> anyway I may have seen you .. what colours etc is your car?
> I am a silver 1956 100-six BN4. I live in La Honda ... so most of my
> driving is up over skyline and I work in Los Altos so all around
> there.
> Enjoy your Healey as I am sure you are.
> Rohan (I bought mine because I grew up with amechanic as a father and
> he worked on Healeys and I just grew to love them - I am 32 so one of
> the younger members).
She's Healey Blue over OEW. Visually near-perfect car w/72 spoke chrome w/w,
fog lamps and a tail number of "1966BJ8". I live in the Montclair area of
Oakland Hills. I was in your neck of the woods last week. Drove down to Los
Gatos. No shortage of nice cars there! Decided to take the long route home
(of course). Took Skyline all the way to the Woodside cutoff then down to
280, north to the SM bridge and on home. Dodged superbikes most of the way.
Those guys appreciate a nice car too. Wanted to take a detour down LaHonda
Rd to the beach, but that was asking a lot of my wife. It was a glorious
day.
Coop
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:20:32 EDT
Subject: Re: how to stay humble while driving the beast
In a message dated 5/24/01 10:55:53 AM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
<< when as the valet presented the Acura NSX to the curb, the man's
unimpressed date looked over at my Healey and screamed "I like THAT one!" >>
I had parked my Healey at a nice restaurant in the Big Sur overlooking the
coast and when I came out, there was one of those huge Mercedes execucars
parked next to it.
The fellow got out and looked at my car, then said "Swap you straight across
for it."
I stopped him cold when I flipped him my keys. (Figured that if he were
really serious, I could sell his car and buy the best fully-restored 100M
you've ever seen, while still having enough left to get a similar quality
Bugeye.)
Needless to say, after a long pause, he laughed and tossed my keys back. But
I think, just for a moment, he might have made the trade.
Cheers
gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:22:20 EDT
Subject: Re: how to stay humble while driving the beast
Driving a top down '65 MKIII to the Twin Cities airport on a lovely
spring afternoon a sedan passed me, a young lady leaned out of the open
passenger window and shouted 'you're beautiful'. I wasn't then and or now.
Today in my 79th year and driving a white BN1 I still get a kick out of
the attention. I guess we are all hams. Bill Huck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:25:20 -0700
Subject: Re: how to stay humble while driving the beast
I'm game for that Rohan. That used to be my hangout when I was riding bikes
in the '70s. When I think back to those days I wonder how I even survived. I
used to Sunday cafe-race from Pescadero/La Honda to Pacifica along the
Pacific Coast Hwy. with a group of about 50 weekend warriors. Alice's was
the meeting point. That would be a great Sunday run for the Golden Gate
Club.
Now at 50, I think Healeys are almost as fun and a whole lot safer. Coop
> Might be good to meet up one weekend for lunch at Alice's (4 ways
> intersection Hwy84/La Honda~Woodside Rd)?
>
> What is your car Bill?
>
> At 12:18 PM -0700 5/24/01, Bill Katz wrote:
> >I'll have to keep my eyes out for you guys, I practically live for
> >the blast down Skyline! It was where I first tried out my '94 BMW,
> >and also the road that convinced me to get another motorcycle.
> >(Since sold when I got the Healey)
> >
> >BK
> >BRG BJ8 (L867BJ8)
> >www.handsonresearch.com/healey
> >--------------------
> >At 11:46 AM 5/24/2001, Coop1 wrote:
> >
> >> > Hi there ... where about in the bay area? I have a similar story ..
> >>> my car still needs a LOT of work but I have been without it for over
> >>> 6 months and have just finished running it in. Every weekend ..
> >>> anyway I may have seen you .. what colours etc is your car?
> >>> I am a silver 1956 100-six BN4. I live in La Honda ... so most of my
> >>> driving is up over skyline and I work in Los Altos so all around
> >>> there.
> >>> Enjoy your Healey as I am sure you are.
> >>> Rohan (I bought mine because I grew up with amechanic as a father and
> >>> he worked on Healeys and I just grew to love them - I am 32 so one of
> >>> the younger members).
> >>
> >>She's Healey Blue over OEW. Visually near-perfect car w/72 spoke chrome
w/w,
> >>fog lamps and a tail number of "1966BJ8". I live in the Montclair area
of
> >>Oakland Hills. I was in your neck of the woods last week. Drove down to
Los
> >>Gatos. No shortage of nice cars there! Decided to take the long route
home
> >>(of course). Took Skyline all the way to the Woodside cutoff then down
to
> >>280, north to the SM bridge and on home. Dodged superbikes most of the
way.
> >>Those guys appreciate a nice car too. Wanted to take a detour down
LaHonda
> >>Rd to the beach, but that was asking a lot of my wife. It was a
glorious
> >>day.
> >>Coop
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:28:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
Jeez . . . what have I started. What a bunch of Dirty Old Men.
Pete Cowper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 16:29:20 -0500
Subject: Oh Lord its Hard to be Humble
I took the Old Red Devil to town recently to put some gas in the tank. When
I went inside to pay for the gas I was surrounded by people wanting to know
the make, model and all that good stuff.
The young lady who took my money offered to go for a ride in it, much to my
wife's chagrin.
Don
BN7
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark.
Professionals built the Titanic.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 17:41:52 EDT
Subject: Great Northern Calif Sports Car Roads (was Humble)
In a message dated 5/24/01 1:29:10 PM, coop1@dnai.com writes:
<< That used to be my hangout when I was riding bikes
in the '70s. When I think back to those days I wonder how I even survived. I
used to Sunday cafe-race from Pescadero/La Honda to Pacifica along the
Pacific Coast Hwy. with a group of about 50 weekend warriors. Alice's was
the meeting point. >>
For those of you who know the roads, there is a legend (or myth) that the
rich boys at Stanford in their sporty teabaggers (XK120s, Healeys, ACs, etc)
used to run a race against the clock at night from the campus up Page Mill
Road to Skyline Drive, Skyline to Alice's, then back down Woodside Road to
Junipero Serra and back to Page Mill. Still great roads today, but I sure
wouldn't want to try doing it against the clock, in the dark, probably with a
few beers behind me.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 16:28:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Oh Lord its Hard to be Humble
Hi Don
After you've taken her for a spin, mention to her that there is a
'65 BJ8 north of the 49th that she's welcome to tour in <wink>!
Kind regards
Ed
Don Yarber wrote:
>
> I took the Old Red Devil to town recently to put some gas in the tank. When
> I went inside to pay for the gas I was surrounded by people wanting to know
> the make, model and all that good stuff.
> The young lady who took my money offered to go for a ride in it, much to my
> wife's chagrin.
>
> Don
> BN7
> Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark.
> Professionals built the Titanic.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 16:31:27 -0500
Subject: Re: how to stay humble while driving the beast
Hi Gary
Loved it!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 5/24/01 10:55:53 AM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
>
> << when as the valet presented the Acura NSX to the curb, the man's
> unimpressed date looked over at my Healey and screamed "I like THAT one!" >>
>
> I had parked my Healey at a nice restaurant in the Big Sur overlooking the
> coast and when I came out, there was one of those huge Mercedes execucars
> parked next to it.
> The fellow got out and looked at my car, then said "Swap you straight across
> for it."
> I stopped him cold when I flipped him my keys. (Figured that if he were
> really serious, I could sell his car and buy the best fully-restored 100M
> you've ever seen, while still having enough left to get a similar quality
> Bugeye.)
> Needless to say, after a long pause, he laughed and tossed my keys back. But
> I think, just for a moment, he might have made the trade.
>
> Cheers
> gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 17:32:46 -0500
Subject: Re: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
Pete Cowper wrote:
>
> Jeez . . . what have I started. What a bunch of Dirty Old Men.
Hey, 'twarnt us! It's that 200 year old Burns fella that started it!
Best regards,
Fred
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:39:37 -0700
Subject: FYI: Smitty 5-Speed Installation Website
The following site has an excellent color story with step-by step photos
covering installation of the Smitty 5-speed conversion. Also includes gear
ratios of the various Toyota transmissions.
www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/healey_frame.htm
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 15:46:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Oh Lord its Hard to be Humble
Where is she, I'm still single!
------------------
At 02:29 PM 5/24/2001, you wrote:
>I took the Old Red Devil to town recently to put some gas in the tank. When
>I went inside to pay for the gas I was surrounded by people wanting to know
>the make, model and all that good stuff.
>The young lady who took my money offered to go for a ride in it, much to my
>wife's chagrin.
>
>Don
>BN7
>Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark.
>Professionals built the Titanic.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 19:13:45 -0400
Subject: It's hard to be humble
With all the this conversation about hoe difficult it is to be humble,
guess what? We have now discovered the true meaning of Noggin and
Natters.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:31:42 +1000
Subject: Re: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
Just shows what a cultured lot Healey driver are !
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
>
> My God the place is full of poets....:-)...Neil
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 08:30:43 +0800
Subject: Re: Wiring and Smoke Prevention
Martin
Sounds like you're using a wiring diagram for a 3000 not a 100/6.
A1 brown/yellow
A brown x 2
F yellow/green
D yellow x 2
E black
If you like a copy of a wiring diagram email me and I will send one direct.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
very early BT7 with a 100/6 wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Johnson" <MJohnson@cfworks.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 11:51 PM
Subject: Wiring and Smoke Prevention
>
> Hi Kids
> Please confirm my theory, or correct me. I'm rewiring my '59 BN7,
> HBN7L1039. The control box has the terminals marked as follows:
A1/A/F/D/E
> This is the correct control box for my car. HOWEVER the wiring diagram I
> have indicates control box terminals as follows: B/F/DWL/E. I think that
A1
> = the left terminal of B; (that's two brown wires, one to the light
switch,
> and one to the starter solenoid) A = the right terminal of B; (that's two
> brown wires, one to the ignition switch, and one to the fuse unit) F = F;
(
> a brown and green wire from the generator [field], however it's a laquered
> braid yellow wire and green tracer with my harness) D = D; ( a brown and
> yellow wire from the generator [stator], which is all yellow on my
harness)
> D=WL; (a brown and yellow wire to the ignition warning light, which is a
> yellow wire in my harness), and E = E, a black ground wire. I'm sure I
> could use the rules of Lucas to figure it all out, but I'd like to not
make
> any mistakes, as this is a beautiful new harness from British Wiring, and
I
> don't want to let any smoke out of it...
> Thanks in advance. With any luck, I'll have this car done for Summer fun!
> Martin
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 21:08:26 EDT
Subject: Steering Wheel Alignment
Hi List,
My 100-Six original Austin Healey steering wheel has one set of spokes
pointing at 6, 10 and 2 o'clock. I'd like to align is correctly to 12, 4 and
8 o'clock of I can see the oil/temp guage. I'm chicken to open up the
horn/trafficator/steering wheel area.
Can someone give me a detailed step by step instructions to make this
adjustment to my adjustable steering wheel? Thanks.
JOhn
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Charles N. Hall" <hallc at vianet.on.ca>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 21:28:26 -0400
Subject: Main bearings
To all list subscribers:
Thank you for your input about the -.010 main bearings.
I took the block, crank and bearings to another machine shop and they
succeeded in lowering the clearances so that they are now within factory
specs.
Thank you,
Chuck Hall
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Alignment
John -
It's really easy.
There are three inset allen screws on the back side of
the stearing hub (you can see the small holes when
sitting in the driver's seat). Loosen these and the
trafficator can come out in one piece (you may have to
disconnect the trafficator loom in front of the
radiator to give the trafficator a little more
pulling room). After it comes out (be careful - DO
NOT to pull the trafficator loom completely out of the
stator tube - it isn't necessary to completely remove
the trafficator, just pull the trafficator out far
enough so that it hangs loose in front of you), simply
remove the little round circlip that keeps the wheel
hub from coming off the streering column. Once the
circlip is off, you can just pull the wheel out and
reposition it as you see fit.
It should take you all of 10 minutes.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi List,
> My 100-Six original Austin Healey steering wheel has
> one set of spokes
> pointing at 6, 10 and 2 o'clock. I'd like to align
> is correctly to 12, 4 and
> 8 o'clock of I can see the oil/temp guage. I'm
> chicken to open up the
> horn/trafficator/steering wheel area.
> Can someone give me a detailed step by step
> instructions to make this
> adjustment to my adjustable steering wheel? Thanks.
> JOhn
> 100-Six Erika the Red
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 18:54:25 -0700
Subject: Rear Axle Hsg
Just discovered a problem which has not (in my short term w/ the List) been
discussed.
The rear axle assembly from the BT7 MK2 that I have started to restore had
heavy deposits of hardened oil/dirt at both outboard ends. Natural
assumption was leaking rear wheel seals, draining through the weep hole in
the brake backing plate. WRONG.
At both ends of the axle housing, where the formed metal pieces come
together into a tube and meet the casting at the outboard ends of the
assembly, there is a factory weld joining the casting to the tube. (This
is the casting that the hub w/ the seal and bearing mounts on to). The
circumferential weld on both sides was cracked all the way around.
Impossible to see the crack unless you clean off all the crud. The crack
was hairline, but certainly big enough to leak oil.
Took it to a specialty welding shop who said "cold factory weld", but they
can reweld it.
Car's serial number is HBT7L - 17432. If anyone w/ serial number near this
is suffering from oil leaks at the outboard ends of the rear axle, you may
want to look at these welds.
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK2
'62 BT7 MK2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 12:06:57 +1000
Subject: RE: Steering Wheel Alignment
G'day John
Just did the same last week. It's really simple, providing the steering
wheel splines are not stuck hard to the top of the steering shaft. Now I
must say that the BN3/1 has a non adjustable steering wheel so it might be a
little different with the adjustable.
First undo the brass nut at the front of the steering box, place a suitable
container under as oil WILL leak out. Gently remove the brass olive from the
stator tube, I find that a pair of pliers use with a light hand will do the
trick. The stator tube is the long tube that runs from the horn assembly
right down the steering shaft and exits through the steering box.
To do what you want you do not have to remove the horn/trafficator assembly
from the stator tube. Just pull the horn/trafficator assembly upwards away
from the steering wheel. In the steering wheel boss you will see a large nut
that may be a little difficult to undo. Behind that there is also a hook
arrangement that turns the indicator off after cornering - so make sure that
goes back in the same way. Some cars also have a large circlip that will
also need to be removed. Don't pull the horn/trafficator so far that the
wires are pulled up through the steering box into the steering shaft.
Sometimes it is a good idea to tie string to the wires so if they do go too
far you can easily pull them back. Also take note of what wire goes to the
lights and horn for easy reassembly.
With a little exertion the steering wheel may come off rather suddenly so I
would suggest that you leave the nut on the steering shaft by a couple of
threads so when you pull on the steering wheel it doesn't come right off
suddenly and you find yourself falling backwards over the rear shroud. You
will need to undo the nut completely to turn the steering wheel.
Then it's a matter of just turning the steering wheel around to the desired
location. Now I am assuming that the front wheels are pointing dead straight
ahead. If they are not your steering wheel will not be in the desired
location and you will have to do it all again.
Putting it all back together is just the reverse and also dead simple. Don't
forget to replace the oil in the steering box.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: JSoderling@aol.com [mailto:JSoderling@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 11:08 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Steering Wheel Alignment
Hi List,
My 100-Six original Austin Healey steering wheel has one set of spokes
pointing at 6, 10 and 2 o'clock. I'd like to align is correctly to 12, 4
and
8 o'clock of I can see the oil/temp guage. I'm chicken to open up the
horn/trafficator/steering wheel area.
Can someone give me a detailed step by step instructions to make this
adjustment to my adjustable steering wheel? Thanks.
JOhn
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 22:29:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Oh Lord its Hard to be Humble
What does she like like. I can arrange to be single
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: Oh Lord its Hard to be Humble
>
> Where is she, I'm still single!
>
> ------------------
> At 02:29 PM 5/24/2001, you wrote:
>
> >I took the Old Red Devil to town recently to put some gas in the tank.
When
> >I went inside to pay for the gas I was surrounded by people wanting to
know
> >the make, model and all that good stuff.
> >The young lady who took my money offered to go for a ride in it, much to
my
> >wife's chagrin.
> >
> >Don
> >BN7
> >Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark.
> >Professionals built the Titanic.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 22:28:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Great Northern Calif Sports Car Roads (was Humble)
As one who did it, I can assure you that it is true.
Also, in the late 50's early 60's there were great rallies from Lake Merritt
in Oakland through the Oakland hills, into Concord, Walnut Creek, Orinda,
Livermore and what is now San Ramon (cow pastures then). You had to go miles
between these towns then maps were extremely inaccurate --the towns were not
contiguous like now. It was common to have well over 100 entrants in
everything - MG's, TR's Jags, big Healeys - even Volvo P1200 (or whatever
they were ) each rally started around 4pm and ended around 4am at a beer and
pizza joint. I actually won one -- Wizard of Oz rally, November 2, 1963.
Still have the trophy on my desk at home. These were put on by the Monkey
Inn Motor Club in Berkeley (really). Ah youth --- it is wasted on the young!
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 5:41 PM
Subject: Great Northern Calif Sports Car Roads (was Humble)
>
> In a message dated 5/24/01 1:29:10 PM, coop1@dnai.com writes:
>
> << That used to be my hangout when I was riding bikes
> in the '70s. When I think back to those days I wonder how I even survived.
I
> used to Sunday cafe-race from Pescadero/La Honda to Pacifica along the
> Pacific Coast Hwy. with a group of about 50 weekend warriors. Alice's was
> the meeting point. >>
>
> For those of you who know the roads, there is a legend (or myth) that the
> rich boys at Stanford in their sporty teabaggers (XK120s, Healeys, ACs,
etc)
> used to run a race against the clock at night from the campus up Page Mill
> Road to Skyline Drive, Skyline to Alice's, then back down Woodside Road to
> Junipero Serra and back to Page Mill. Still great roads today, but I sure
> wouldn't want to try doing it against the clock, in the dark, probably
with a
> few beers behind me.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 19:46:36 -0700
Subject: RE: Rear Axle Hsg
> Took it to a specialty welding shop who said "cold factory weld", but they
> can reweld it.
>
> Car's serial number is HBT7L - 17432. If anyone w/ serial number
> near this
> is suffering from oil leaks at the outboard ends of the rear axle, you may
> want to look at these welds.
Whoa John, you had me for a minute there. I thought you were going to ask
about warranty repair...
Brad
55 bn1 226796
http://bradw.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 23:18:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Veering Sensation
Ditto, Ken. At VIR a couple weeks back one of the racing 100s developed
this type problem. Found the centering pin on the left side had become two
pieces. Replaced it with a bolt and nut assembly and he went on to win
Sunday's race! Can you believe it? A big Healey winning a road race??????
Keith Pennell
> Check the center bolt in the rear spring plate that it isn't broken or
> loose.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 23:28:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake problem-more info
Alain,
I presume you verified that the two reservoir pipes are connected to their
proper master cylinder? Just a thought.
Keith Pennell
>Since only the middle (clutch) reservoir is empty,
> and the clutch works fine, could the adjustment of the brakes have
> affected the pedal that much?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 20:30:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Veering Sensation
Where is the rear spring plate?
At 11:18 PM 5/24/01 -0400, Keith Pennell wrote:
>Ditto, Ken. At VIR a couple weeks back one of the racing 100s developed
>this type problem. Found the centering pin on the left side had become two
>pieces. Replaced it with a bolt and nut assembly and he went on to win
>Sunday's race! Can you believe it? A big Healey winning a road race??????
>
>Keith Pennell
>
>> Check the center bolt in the rear spring plate that it isn't broken or
>> loose.
>> Ken Freese
>> 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 00:36:16 EDT
Subject: Re: how to stay humble while driving the beast
Coop,
Hope you signed up for Sandi Baker's Memorial Day weekend tour down Highway 1
to visit light houses and missions. If so, I'll see you Saturday morning at
the start in Pacifica. Would like to see your restored car.
The tour visits five light houses and one mission on the way to Big Sur for
9:30 p.m. dinner at the Nepenthe and overnight. Sunday more light houses and
Diablo Canyon Power Plant and a four mile hike in Diablo Canyon. Stay at San
Lius Obispo. Monday up Highway 101 visiting four missions on the way back to
the Bay area.
Should be a great time.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WmsRbt at aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 06:28:49 EDT
Subject: Re: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
In a message dated 5/24/01 11:48:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
neilberg@telus.net writes:
>
>
> My God the place is full of poets....:-)...Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Harrison, Ian" <Ian.Harrison@li.csiro.au>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: <fhunter@kcnet.com>; <pcowper@webtv.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 7:44 AM
> Subject: FW: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
>
>
I cannot hold it in any longer. I must rhyme.
There once was a fella from Boston
Who drove around town in an Austin
He had room for his ass
and a gallon of gas
But his balls hung so low that he lost'un
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 09:50:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Great Northern Calif Sports Car Roads (was Humble)REMEMBER
In a message dated 5/24/01 10:42:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
healey6@optonline.net writes:
> Ah youth --- it is wasted on the young!
>
>
John-
Wouldn't you like to have the chance to do that again, young or not?
As they say when you get older you just sit around and talk about those good
old times we had back when.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 09:04:18 -0800
Subject: Re[2]: Great Northern Calif Sports Car Roads (was Humble)
I remember well those rallies originating at Lake Merrit, in Oakland,
California. I also remember with a smile the names of some of the sports car
clubs - Squeaky Wheels Touring Club, and the cleverly-acronymed Austin-Healey
and Sprite Owners Limited (AHSOL). I usually participated, in my full-race
fourspeed Ford Falcon Futura, assisted by as many of my obnoxious high school
buddies as would fit into the car. We never won, but we had a good time. -
JohnC, BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:31:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Wiring and Smoke Prevention
Hi Martin,
The correct control box for your car is a Lucas RB106. This has a
rounded lid held on with a wire clip and has screw terminals. The OEM
number is 37183 and you should find this stamped into the main body on
the side of the regulator. The number does supersede but the above is
the correct regulator. The terminals are marked A1 /A F/D/E
Other regulators will work but there are various identification codes
for different manufacturers.
If you are going to the expense and trouble of fitting a new harness I
would suggest that a correct regulator would be a good investment,
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 11:40:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Alignment
In a message dated 5/24/01 6:36:28 PM, international_investor@yahoo.com
writes:
<< Once the
circlip is off, you can just pull the wheel out and
reposition it as you see fit. >>
Absolutely right, except for that it doesn't correct for the mistake I made.
Before you do anything, you want to figure out where "Top Dead Center" is for
your steering
wheel -- that is, where the steering wheel is when the wheels have centered
and you're going straight ahead. Maybe do this in a parking lot. Then stop
and make a mark on the steering wheel and on the steering column.
Then, before you remove the steering wheel, make sure that the two marks
match up so that, sitting in the garage, you are absolutely sure your front
wheels are pointed straight ahead. When you remove the wheel and slide it
back on with the spoke upright, you should be fine.
I didn't do this, trusting my eye to tell me that the wheels were pointed
straight ahead. Unfortunately, after I put my wheel on, when I was going
straight down the highway, the middle spoke was a couple degrees (probably
about one spline's worth) off dead center -- drove me crazy.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 11:54:50 EDT
Subject: Driving the beast - reliving the past
I just got a report for British Car Magazine on an endurance rally organized
each year by the St Louis MG Club.
Talk about reliving the past. They meet at a truck stop restaurant outside
the city at
ten am on a Saturday morning. Then a set of ten destinations is selected at
random from a much larger group that the organizers have identified. This
year, the destinations were historic sites, mostly covered bridges, within
250 miles of St Louis. All cars left at noon and had to be back at the same
restaurant at noon on Sunday. The object was to visit all the sites within 24
hours and get proof of having visited each site (polaroid picture), with the
car having the lowest corrected mileage while visiting each site winning.
This year, the winning car got to all the sites and drove just over 950
miles. Second place car drove 1,100 miles.
Oh, to make sure no one speeds (or at least gets caught speeding) they do the
standard practice of sealing the driver and navigator's drivers' licenses in
envelopes that have to be returned unopened at the end of the rally.
Hard to believe that in this day and age, there's still a sports car club
that's doing 24 hour navigation rallies.
Maybe next year, one of the Bay Area clubs could organize a Mission or
Lighthouse rally like this.
Cheers
gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 09:58:18 -0600
Subject: Dash top
Listers,
What is the fastening method for the dash top to scuttle? Are those rivets
and if so whats the best way of removal. I am assuming that the top needs to
come off before the wind screen can be removed.
Thanks, Sid 65bj8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Richard Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 12:23:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Veering Sensation
Where is the rear spring plate?
Brian
The rear spring plate is directly below the axle and is the plate to which
the U-bolts which pass over the axle terminate - and on the bottom side are
secured with four nuts and lock washers (or Nyloc nuts)
DickB
At 11:18 PM 5/24/01 -0400, Keith Pennell wrote:
>Ditto, Ken. At VIR a couple weeks back one of the racing 100s developed
>this type problem. Found the centering pin on the left side had become two
>pieces. Replaced it with a bolt and nut assembly and he went on to win
>Sunday's race! Can you believe it? A big Healey winning a road race??????
>
>Keith Pennell
>
>> Check the center bolt in the rear spring plate that it isn't broken or
>> loose.
>> Ken Freese
>> 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 12:31:28 EDT
Subject: coagulated oil
Hi all. Have put my gearbox back in and decided to install the spin-on filter
head on the block of my BN6 engine while the starter was out. Decided to
change the oil as well. This car is not on the road yet, but starts and runs.
I have never changed the oil before in this car. What comes out of the pan is
lumpy globby coagulated oil. It is almost like a heavy foam. The engine and
oil was cold. I have several British cars, Probably go through 10 gals of
20-50 Castrol a year. Have never seen this. I am thinking it may have
something to do with old non-detergent oil and new modern oils not mixing.
Dropped the pan, all looks fine in there, other than a mass of this stuff
filling the center baffled area of the pan. Even pulled a rod cap off and
will replace the rod bearings just for grins. Anyone seen this or have any
thoughts? BTW this engine did not have great oil pressure (the screen was
clogged with this stuff too) but runs so well and is so smoothly balanced, I
really did not suspect anything serious.
Thanks for any thoughts on this.
Cheers,
John Wright
Hey Charlie!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 12:40:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Driving the beast - reliving the past
In a message dated 5/25/01 11:58:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< Hard to believe that in this day and age, there's still a sports car club
that's doing 24 hour navigation rallies. >>
Gary--
Years ago (like 35-40 years ago) there used to be a 24-hour event called the
"Targa Florida" that just sorta happened annually in south-central Florida.
I don't know who put it on. It purported to be a TSD rally but was run out
in the boonies of the Everglades and around Lake Okeechobee, where the
secondary county roads are arrow-straight two laners that were lightly
patrolled. Instructions were scanty and the predesignated checkpoints were
few.
I was navigating for my buddy who had a phase E-coupe and about halfway into
the rally in the middle of the night I discovered that we had made a wrong
turn and in order to get back on course and time we had to average 120 MPH
for an hour, give or take a bit. We were both young and obviously crazy and
"went for it". We arrived at the checkpoint from the wrong direction but on
time. The exhaust headers of the jag were glowing cherry red and I
distinctly remember shaking all over when I got out of the car. Fun stuff,
and glad to have lived to tell about it....
Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:47:05 -0600
Subject: RE: coagulated oil
Hi,
Could it be coolant in the oil that's causing the foam and coagulation? I
wonder whether whipping ethylene glycol and oil causes some form of
hydrogenation (the way they make shortening from oil).
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Mogfrog1@aol.com [mailto:Mogfrog1@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 9:31 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: coagulated oil
>>What comes out of the pan is lumpy globby coagulated oil. It is almost
like a heavy foam. <<
Cheers,
John Wright
Hey Charlie!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 13:27:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Dash top
Hi Sid,
This is a bit of a trick. The dash top is sort of just sitting in place. There
should be a metal tab at each end of the pad which is bent over the lip of the
scuttle panel. Bend this down just enough to allow you to lift the back edge of
the pad. The demister masks have pegs on the bottom of them that engage in holes
in the top of the scuttle panel. As you lift the back edge of the pad they
should
pop out of the holes then you can pull the pad out.
You have to remove the pad to get to the centre screw for the windshield frame.
That screw is only screwed into a rubber and brass grommet so take care with it.
Good luck.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
bronson wrote:
> Listers,
> What is the fastening method for the dash top to scuttle? Are those rivets
> and if so whats the best way of removal. I am assuming that the top needs to
> come off before the wind screen can be removed.
> Thanks, Sid 65bj8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Paterson <jp at giveanything.com>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 13:16:46 -0400
Subject: New York City?
Hi All,
I'm new to the list and I look forward to participating.
I just purchased a '61 BT7 and I'm pretty excited.
Couple of questions if anyone has any input...
1. I live in New York City (Manhattan) and I'm having a difficult time
finding a suitable parking arrangement. Any NYC people out there with
any recommendations? Something besides the standard "toss 'em the
keys" and "hope all will be OK" arrangements on every block?
2. Can anyone recommend a good online source for a quality car cover
for the Big Healeys?
Also would appreciate any other interesting New York Healey resources.
Best,
John Paterson
Co-founder
GiveAnything.com, Inc.
212.252.8891 ext. 203
----------
Remember! When you really don't know what to give... Give Anything!
http://www.giveanything.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 13:41:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Driving the beast - reliving the past
Now that sounds like a blast ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> I just got a report for British Car Magazine on an endurance rally organized
> each year by the St Louis MG Club.
> Talk about reliving the past. They meet at a truck stop restaurant outside
> the city at
> ten am on a Saturday morning. Then a set of ten destinations is selected at
> random from a much larger group that the organizers have identified. This
> year, the destinations were historic sites, mostly covered bridges, within
> 250 miles of St Louis. All cars left at noon and had to be back at the same
> restaurant at noon on Sunday. The object was to visit all the sites within 24
> hours and get proof of having visited each site (polaroid picture), with the
> car having the lowest corrected mileage while visiting each site winning.
> This year, the winning car got to all the sites and drove just over 950
> miles. Second place car drove 1,100 miles.
>
> Oh, to make sure no one speeds (or at least gets caught speeding) they do the
> standard practice of sealing the driver and navigator's drivers' licenses in
> envelopes that have to be returned unopened at the end of the rally.
>
> Hard to believe that in this day and age, there's still a sports car club
> that's doing 24 hour navigation rallies.
>
> Maybe next year, one of the Bay Area clubs could organize a Mission or
> Lighthouse rally like this.
>
> Cheers
> gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From GNpaper at aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 13:38:14 EDT
Subject: Re: No Spark
Well, listers she's finally let me down. After fours years she's never left
me stranded until now. Although she at least had the courtesy to do it one
block from home.
After rounding the last corner from home she just stopped. I popped the
bonnet and fiddled with the wires, after starting for a brief moment she quit
again.
I was forced to enlist the wife's help, enduring the prerequisite scornful
look to pull her home. I don't have a spark from the coil wire. A few
suggestions on possible causes, would be much appreciated.
Dan Brooks
67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Richard Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 14:00:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: NO LBC but Educational material
--and I thought you need to know about this.
DickB
Subject: Educational material
>
> If you yelled for 8 years, 7 months and 6 days you
> would have produced
> enough sound energy to heat one cup of coffee
> (Hardly seems worth it)
>
> If you farted consistently for 6 years and 9
> months, enough gas is
> produced to create the energy of an atomic bomb
> (Now that's more like it)
>
> The human heart creates enough pressure when it
> pumps out to the body to
> squirt blood 30 feet (Just what I wanted to
> know...!)
>
> A pig's orgasm lasts 30 minutes. (In my next life I
> want to be a pig)
>
> A cockroach will live nine days without its head
> before it starves to
> death. (Creepy)
>
> (I'm still not over the pig)
>
> Banging your head against a wall uses 150 calories
> an hour. (Do not try
> this at home .. maybe at work)
>
> The male praying mantis cannot copulate while its
> head is attached to
> its body. The female initiates sex by ripping the
> male's head off.
> ("Honey, I'm home. What the....")
>
> The flea can jump 350 times its body length. It's
> like a human jumping
> the length of a football field. (30 minutes...can
> you imagine??)
>
> The catfish has over 27,000 taste buds. (What can
> be so tasty on the
> bottom of the pond?)
>
> Some lions mate over 50 times a day. (I still want
> to be a pig in my
> next life ...quality over quantity.)
>
> Butterflies taste with their feet. (Something I
> always wanted to know)
>
> The strongest muscle in the body is the tongue.
> (Hmmmmmm........)
>
> Right-handed people live, on average, nine years
> longer than left-handed
> people do. (If you're ambidextrous, do you split the
> difference?)
>
> Elephants are the only animal that cannot jump.
> (OK, so that would be a
> good thing....)
>
> A cat's urine glows under a blacklight. (I wonder
> who was paid to figure
> that out.)
>
> An ostrich's eye is bigger than its brain. (I know
> some people like
> that.)
>
> Starfish have no brains. (I know some people like
> that too.)
>
> Polar bears are left-handed. (Who knew...? Who
> cares!)
>
> Humans and dolphins are the only species that have
> sex for pleasure.
> (What about the pig?)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 14:42:26 -0400
Subject: Re: No Spark
Geez Dan,
You sound like one of the Chrysler Minivan customers we get in here. "I think I
heard a funny noise last week... could you fix it please?"
We need to know ... did the tach stop working at the same time?
Is there a spark at the coil wire?
Has the small white & black wire fallen off the battery master switch in the
trunk and shorted to ground?
For starters.......
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
GNpaper@aol.com wrote:
> Well, listers she's finally let me down. After fours years she's never left
> me stranded until now. Although she at least had the courtesy to do it one
> block from home.
> After rounding the last corner from home she just stopped. I popped the
> bonnet and fiddled with the wires, after starting for a brief moment she quit
> again.
> I was forced to enlist the wife's help, enduring the prerequisite scornful
> look to pull her home. I don't have a spark from the coil wire. A few
> suggestions on possible causes, would be much appreciated.
>
> Dan Brooks
> 67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 15:00:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Smitty 5-Speed Installation Website
Hi Listers, let me tell you one thing I discovered that may be of benefit to
anyone doing the Smitty conversion. The link to the AH club of the UK about
the Smitty conversion talks about a bit of misalignment between the dimple
in the Supra clutch release lever versus the centerline of the slave
cylinder. Well, the alignment happens to be 3/4" with the dimple being too
close to the bell housing by that much. This is the release lever from a
Supra. I found a Jap pull-out yard in central Arkansas who let me browse
while holding the Supra lever in my hand. When I found a lever from a Toy
pickup truck (about 1989-90 vintage) the dimple was exactly 3/4" further out
than that of the Supra. The lever was otherwise identical. Just $10 bought
the Toy truck lever which now resides in my BT7 Mk2 in perfect alignment.
Hence, I had no need to modify a Supra lever to work, just replace it as
above. Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Gerow [mailto:sgerow@singular.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 5:40 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: FYI: Smitty 5-Speed Installation Website
The following site has an excellent color story with step-by step photos
covering installation of the Smitty 5-speed conversion. Also includes gear
ratios of the various Toyota transmissions.
www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/healey_frame.htm
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 19:02:32 EDT
Subject: Adding an alternator
I am rushing headlong into the mid-twentieth century: I am changing out my
ever-problematical generator for an alternator and going over to negative
ground at the same time. I know that the subject of changing polarity has
been covered numerous times, but there always seems to be some different
wrinkle each time so, please bear with me:
I know that I must reverse the battery connections and coil leads, and I am
substituting a negative ground SU fuel pump. Since the alternator is already
polarized, IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE? Also, what about all those funny colored
wires that go into my current "control box" or voltage (ir)regulator that
lives on the firewall? Since the alternator is internally regulated, other
than connecting up the two alternator outputs what do I do with the balance
of the wires?
Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 00:35:03 +0100
Subject: AUSTIN HEALEY 50TH ANNIVERSARY
Attached is the first Press Release outlining the Austin Healey 50th
Anniversary celebrations planned in the UK for July/August 2002.
This and all future information and updates will also appear on the web
site of the Austin Healey Club - http://www.austin-healey-club.com
===============================================
Press Release 001
===============================================
AUSTIN HEALEY 50TH ANNIVERSARY PLANS TAKE SHAPE
Preparations are well underway to celebrate the Golden Anniversary of
one of Britain's most endearing sports cars, the Austin Healey. Co-
ordinated by members of the Austin Healey Club, the week-long event is
scheduled to commence on Sunday 28 July 2002, ending on the following
Sunday 4 August 2002.
This biggest international event in the history of the Austin Healey,
exactly 50 years since the Donald Healey Motor Company's new sports car
became the star of the 1952 Earls Court Motor Show, will bring together
the largest collection of world-renowned racing, record-breaking and
rally cars ever assembled.
The event will be centred around Wokefield Park, a prestigious
conferencing facility in Reading, Berkshire. The programme of events for
the week will include historic racing at Thruxton in Andover, a day at
Prescott Hill Climb in Cheltenham, plus rallying and planned drives to
places of historic interest and scenic beauty.
More than 500 classic Austin Healeys are expected to join the largest
ever one-marque meeting of star cars, celebrities and well-known
personalities, and guests from all over the world.
So much to do and to see, with parades and cavalcades, concours
d'elegance, a trade village, displays of famous race-winning cars and
record-breakers and a chance to meet their drivers. A Gala Dinner and
evening entertainment is also planned.
The official anniversary logo, (see web site), features the original
Austin Healey 100, and has been designed for use on stationery and
promotional items in the run up to the big event. A souvenir programme
is also being prepared and there are a number of excellent sponsorship
packages available.
Organisers are expecting a tremendous demand from visitors and those
wishing to participate, so early contact is recommended.
For more information please contact:-
Phil Gardner,
Austin Healey 50th Project Director
Tel: +44 (0)1202 814277.
Or look at the Austin Healey Club's web site:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
=======================================================
If you would like a copy of the official logo (hi res) emailed to you,
please contact:-
Susan Dunbar at Barbryn Ltd.
Tel: +44 (0)1564 741847. Email: susan@barbryn.co.uk
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 17:39:42 -0600
Subject: Floor panel
Listers,
Is the kilmartin floor panel worth the $90 as opposed to $50 for what you get
from Moss?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 22:42:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Smitty 5-Speed Installation Website
Another good point is that the parts listed in the tech manual is for a one
specific year and car and these parts were not compatible for the year trans
I selected. I had to go to a toyota dealer and look at their parts lists to
get the right parts. Make sure you write down the year and model of the car
the trans came out of or you'll have a hard time finding the right parts. Not
all of the toyota trans were exactly the same.
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 22:58:13 -0500
Subject: Re: New York City?
> 1. I live in New York City (Manhattan) and I'm having a difficult time
> finding a suitable parking arrangement.
> 2. Can anyone recommend a good online source for a quality car cover
> for the Big Healeys?
>
A Healey in New York City, huh?
Well, I understand Uncle Sam is selling some pretty nice used ICBM
missile silo's...
FH
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 23:05:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 32-Year-Old Michelin Mourning
Just an update on my brake drum saga. After having to grind a quarter
on an inch off the lip of the left rear brake drum for about three
inches of the circumference to balance it, I took the right rear brake
drum in just to see how it was.
The right rear brake drum also was within a few thousands of being
concentric, however, it had to have about one quarter inch of the outer
lip ground off for about two inches of the circumference and bevelled
out about eight inches around the circumference to balance it. Not
quite as bad, but still way out of balance.
The new Michelin XGT H-4 195/65R-15 tires are all mounted and ready to
go back on the car this weekend. The ride from Visalia down to
California Healey Week at Rio Bravo in Bakersfield next weekend should
be a joy.
I'm kinda worried that the old Healey will ride so smoothly now that I
may fall asleep at the wheel.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7L 6995)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 05:49:29 -0400
Subject: Patrick Quinn in Australia
Does anyone out there know how to reach Patrick Quinn of Sydney,
Australia, via email?
Bob Denton
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 13:07:17 -0400
Subject: look see appraisal for fee
Dear Mr. and Mrs. Finucane,
I'm a recent Healey enthusiast. A few months bach I went to the Sebring, FL
classic car races with a friend. After looking at all the cars on display
(Porches, Jaguars, Ferraris, Cobras, etc.) and watching the races, I got bit
by the classic car bug. It was the lines of a blue Austin Healey that caught
my eye which I fell in love with. Since then, I've been obsessed (my wife
believes I've gone off the deep end) with finding a car to purchase or
restore. I've located a '67 BJ8 in the Bridgeport, CT area in need of
restoration. Would you be able to refer me to a club member or someone else
with Healey knowledge that would be willing to inspect this car for me? Of
course, I would be willing to compensate this person for their time. I am
waiting on pictures of the car to be e-mailed to me, but I would feel more
comfortable having someone look over the car too. Thanking you in advance.
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
941-746-4120
gcox@tampabay.rr.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 16:07:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Great Northern Calif Sports Car Roads (was Humble)
Hi All:
Stanford University parking stickers still reside on my windshield. I am
sure my car participated under the drivership of Jack Anderson, who owned
the car at that time.
Thanks for that piece of history.
Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 2:41 PM
Subject: Great Northern Calif Sports Car Roads (was Humble)
>
> In a message dated 5/24/01 1:29:10 PM, coop1@dnai.com writes:
>
> << That used to be my hangout when I was riding bikes
> in the '70s. When I think back to those days I wonder how I even survived.
I
> used to Sunday cafe-race from Pescadero/La Honda to Pacifica along the
> Pacific Coast Hwy. with a group of about 50 weekend warriors. Alice's was
> the meeting point. >>
>
> For those of you who know the roads, there is a legend (or myth) that the
> rich boys at Stanford in their sporty teabaggers (XK120s, Healeys, ACs,
etc)
> used to run a race against the clock at night from the campus up Page Mill
> Road to Skyline Drive, Skyline to Alice's, then back down Woodside Road to
> Junipero Serra and back to Page Mill. Still great roads today, but I sure
> wouldn't want to try doing it against the clock, in the dark, probably
with a
> few beers behind me.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 22:25:31 -0400
Subject: I'm the new owner of a 49 Healey Sportsmobile
Well, I bought John Barth's beautiful '49 Healey Sportsmobile. She is a
magnificent beast. I have pics should anyone like to see it.
My question. How do I get on a Riley list like this Healey list?
And I need a top radiator hose for a Riley 2.4 liter DOHC.
Bob Denton
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 00:40:29 -0500
Subject: Re: I'm the new owner of a 49 Healey
Arjay wrote:
>
> Well, I bought John Barth's beautiful '49 Healey Sportsmobile. She is a
> magnificent beast. I have pics should anyone like to see it.
>
Congratulations!
I saw this car at the Chicago Historics about 10 years ago. Neat
machine!
> My question. How do I get on a Riley list like this Healey list?
LOL! Dream on! There is no such beast (to the best of my knowledge)!
> And I need a top radiator hose for a Riley 2.4 liter DOHC.
Make friends with your local parts store guy. Remove the hose, take it
to him, and tell him to match up the length & diameter as best he can.
He should be able to come up with something pretty close in a Gates or
whatever. On a car that rare, for consumables like rubber parts, close
counts. You don't expect any Concours judge would know the dif, anyway,
do ya?
Good luck, and once again, congrats!
Best regards,
Fred
Let's give the
Clerk a hand
Who never
Palms off
Another brand
--Burma-Shave--
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Joseph Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 13:14:24 -0400
Subject: BN1 Overdrive
Just received British Motoring Magazine from Moss Motors. Interesting
article on Austin Healey's. The writer states
that the BN1 was less well received in the US due to low gearing, but on
the BN2 model an overdrive unit was installed
and all was well. How did the overdrive get on my BN1? Wonder
where he got his information.
Best Regards, Joe
55 BN1
60 3000
--- Joseph Smathers
--- healey27@mindspring.com
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 13:22:10 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Overdrive
Information is wrong !!!
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Joseph Smathers wrote:
> Just received British Motoring Magazine from Moss Motors. Interesting
> article on Austin Healey's. The writer states
>
> that the BN1 was less well received in the US due to low gearing, but on
> the BN2 model an overdrive unit was installed
>
> and all was well. How did the overdrive get on my BN1? Wonder
> where he got his information.
>
>
>
> Best Regards, Joe
>
>
>
> 55 BN1
>
> 60 3000
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 14:28:22 EDT
Subject: Grille Badge help needed.
Sorry to blast the list, but I need some assistance. The Concours committee
has exhausted our supply of Gold grill badges and our provider is no longer
in business. Gary Anderson informed me that the Michigan Grill badges were
well done. Can one of you put me in touch with the people responsible for
getting those badges made? Any assistance will be appreciated. PLease
contact me off list at HealeyAuto@aol.com.
Thanks in advance,
Richard Gordon
Concours Committee
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "P. Henty" <p_henty at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 12:10:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Front Disc Brakes - Looking for BT-7
Hello listers,
I am looking for a pair of front disc brakes for a 62
BT-7. Like everybody else my budget is tight, but any
leads from someone who has looked around would be
greatly appreciated. At this point, the brakes have
been holding me up for some time. I have been hoping
to make a little more progress this summer on the
beast.
Thanks - Peter Henty
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 14:20:56 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Radiator
What are the dimensions of the original BJ8 radiator? Height, width and
thickness? Thanks very much.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 12:55:37 -0700
Subject: Alternator Conversion help!
Listers,
I hope that someone on the list can review these connections and let
me know if they seem to be correct. There is alot of information on
the web about this conversion, (much of it confusing to me) but I
don't understand enough about keeping the smoke in to be sure of the
connections.
So far I've been able to gather that the wires at the control box can
be spliced together in the following manner:
Yellow/green, Brown (2), Brown/Blue-Slice these together.
Splice the 2 yellow wires together.
Discard the Black (earth)
I'm going to remove the internals from the control box and solder
jumpers across the A1, A and F connectors for the four wires, and
jumper the D and E connectors for the 2 yellows.
The connections on the alternator depend on which alternator you
have. I am using a
Lucas 18ACR that has a small spade connection for the Yellow/Green (F)
and 2
common positive (+) connections, I'll use one for the Yellow (D). The
ground is through
the case. Please if someone finds that these connections are in
error, let me know what you find out.
Mark Fawcett
60 BT7 (with 100/6 wiring)
----- Original Message -----
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 16:14:15 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Overdrive
In a message dated 5/27/01 10:17:25 AM, healey27@mindspring.com writes:
<< that the BN1 was less well received in the US due to low gearing, but on
the BN2 model an overdrive unit was installed
and all was well. How did the overdrive get on my BN1? Wonder
where he got his information. >>
Obviously this less-than-well-informed person didn't read our book (or any of
the books from which we did our historical research.) The overdrive was
installed on
the prototype at the same time that Donald, Roger, et al. made the decision
to blank
off the low gear on what had been a four-speed gear box.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Smith" <bobsmith at halcyon.com>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 15:04:54 -0700
Subject: New Running Lights
Hello List,
I'm new to the list and this will be my first request. I am about to install
running lights on my 67- BJ8. They attach to the Badge Bar. Where should I
connect to the 12 volt, and does anyone have a good routing for the wire to
the switch, and where is the best place to mount the switch??? Any advice
would be welcome. I've changed to a negative ground.
Sincerely,
Bob Smith
BJ8 (red)
P.S.
For those running to La Honda, the Skyline, Pescadaro and other neat roads
over the hills, I have fond memories of the same routes during the late 40S
and early 50s. Look forward to doing it again this summer when we take the
Healey to the bay area on vacation.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 16:26:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Need Mechanic in NY
Hi Team,
Could someone please advise me of a good mechanic for British cars in the
Scarsdale/Westchester area of New York? A Lucas specialist would be a
bonus. Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 20:01:51 EDT
Subject: Re: New Running Lights
For the Driving lights on my car I used an off-road light relay kit from the
local auto parts store. The high amperage needed to light them doesn't need
to go through the switch that way.
The kit will give you instructions on where to take the power and have them
be street legal. They can only legally be switched on with the headlamps, and
they turn of when you hit the high beams. I mounted the rather small relay on
my firewall (you can hide it) and the large gauge wiring (in plastic tubing)
runs over the inner fenders to the front.
You can a look at it at some pre-launch pages of my new look and feel of my
progress website: http://members.aol.com/wilko/engine.html
in the main picture you can see the small relay just behind the plastic water
overflow tank. the wires go along the frame and dip down under the frame and
come back up in front of the oil piping and down along the top of the inner
well just behind the support (far left of lower corner of pic).
You can click the small thumbnail of the steering wheel for a picture of my
switch location above and to the left of the key. (should be:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/derrington.html)
The small thumbnail of the driving lamp will get a pic of the mountings and
the lamps. They were on a badge bar previously.
Click the header of the page to get the old site with those pics.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 20:20:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Need Mechanic in NY
In a message dated 5/27/01 7:29:44 PM, AHCUSA@excite.com writes:
<<Hi Team,
Could someone please advise me of a good mechanic for British cars in the
Scarsdale/Westchester area of New York? A Lucas specialist would be a
bonus. Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel>>
Reid,
Stay away from Bill's Garage in Chapaqua. I understand he takes the best
pieces out of a car before turning it back to its owner and if something
screws up, he always blames it on someone else. He runs with a criminal
element, too. Not to worry, though, he's too busy trying to get admitted to
the Westchester Country Club to spend much time around the garage.
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 10:29:36 +1000
Subject: RE: BN1 Overdrive
Greetings
We all know that the Laycock de Normanville overdrive was fitted to the
original Austin-Healeys and in fact to all production four cylinder cars.
(I'm ignoring the 100S for this purpose as they were first fitted with a DB
gearbox and then a BMC box.)
However there is an interesting little piece of Healey History trivia here
that may be of interest.
The gearbox as fitted to the first Healey 100 came from the same source as
the engine; ie the Austin A90 Atlantic. It was a four speed which when
coupled with a 4.1:1 differential was just too low geared for the new sports
car.
It was Ian Duncan, a friend of the Healey family who suggested the fitting
of the new Laycock de Normanville overdrive to the new sports car. After
having to close down his own business due to the British taxation system of
the time, he then went to work for Austin before leaving there in 1952 to
start a photographic business. We all know that DMH was a very keen
photographer. Ian Duncan was the first to take delivery of the new Healey
car chassis back in 1946/47 and whose name is remembered today in the Healey
Duncan saloon.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 6:14 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BN1 Overdrive
In a message dated 5/27/01 10:17:25 AM, healey27@mindspring.com writes:
<< that the BN1 was less well received in the US due to low gearing, but on
the BN2 model an overdrive unit was installed
and all was well. How did the overdrive get on my BN1? Wonder
where he got his information. >>
Obviously this less-than-well-informed person didn't read our book (or any
of
the books from which we did our historical research.) The overdrive was
installed on
the prototype at the same time that Donald, Roger, et al. made the decision
to blank
off the low gear on what had been a four-speed gear box.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 20:49:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Need Mechanic in NY (Legit Response)
In a message dated 5/27/01 7:29:58 PM, AHCUSA@excite.com writes:
<<Hi Team,
Could someone please advise me of a good mechanic for British cars in the
Scarsdale/Westchester area of New York? A Lucas specialist would be a
bonus. Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
Reid,
Call Gabe or Pete at Highland Motors, Highland, NY. (914)- 691-2265. Healey
restorations with excellent work. If they can't help you out, they'll be
able to steer you to someone who can.
Regards,
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 18:14:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: New Running Lights
Bob -
As far as the switches go, I bought one of those small
toggle switch bezels you can buy at any good local
auto parts store, and then mounted it to the screw
which holds the centre console to the center piece on
the dash. No drilling required and the little toggles
look very original and are a little hidden.
You should definitely hook them up with a relay, as
this will keep from overloading the fusebox, which is
already overloaded on most healeys. Attach the hot
lead to the hot battery wire on the solenoid and
connect your running lights through a relay to this
hot lead. switching circuit goes through the switch
on the dashboard. As a matter of safety, I prefer to
run the switching circuit with a grounding wire rather
than a hot wire. That way if the switch for some
reason grounds out, all that will happen is the lights
will pop on... wiring the switch with a hot lead has a
remote possibility of fire hazard.
Good luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bob Smith <bobsmith@halcyon.com> wrote:
>
> Hello List,
>
> I'm new to the list and this will be my first
> request. I am about to install
> running lights on my 67- BJ8. They attach to the
> Badge Bar. Where should I
> connect to the 12 volt, and does anyone have a good
> routing for the wire to
> the switch, and where is the best place to mount the
> switch??? Any advice
> would be welcome. I've changed to a negative ground.
>
> Sincerely,
> Bob Smith
> BJ8 (red)
> P.S.
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Phlsky at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 00:56:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Need Mechanic in NY
Theres a shop in Tuxedo NY, called M&G Vintage Auto. Its not Westchester Co,
but its on the Jersey side of the Hudson in Rockland county (I think) NY.
>From Westchester, take the Tappanzee Bridge west, head for several miles and
you can get them on Rt17 North. They specialize in selling/restoring British
cars -MG's, Healeys etc.
I have received good work from them in the past, although they may take a
while to be able to fit you in their schedule.
Here is a link to their web site which is severly outdated.
<A HREF="http://www.vintageautogroup.com/";>M&G Vintage Auto</A>
Ask for Mark
Hope this helps
Phil Walsky
Wayne, NJ
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 22:25:58 -0700
Subject: Beautiful day in Paradise
Listers.
It started off OK.
We left at 1.30 PM to go to the Lakers game. They trounced San Antonio
for a 4-0 SWEEP and the Western Conference Championship. It's OK Texas,
you still have the "cooler".
It was perfect Healey weather (overcast and 65 degrees) so we drove home
and picked up the Healey. We drove to Santa Monica where we picked up
Highway "1" and drove north along the water to Malibu. We turned inland
on Kanan Dume Road and drove through the hills to the Valley. We picked
up the 101 Freeway and drove 80 MPH back to the west side. We parked the
car outside the CPK in a "10 minute pick up" zone so we could keep an
eye on the car while we ate. Before I got out the "greeter" standing
inside the door walked outside. My wife says "he is going to tell us we
can't park here".
The kid says "great car, what is it", and did not ask us to move it. He
then went inside and got a buddy to show the car to him.
While we ate almost everyone that left the restaurant stopped to look at
the car.
The car always got attention and much more now that it is so different
from the current collection of look-a-like sports cars.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
Marina del Rey, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "howes" <howes at ntlworld.com>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 11:06:03 +0100
Subject: Frogeye/Bugeye Project
Hi Listers,
Any one know of a bugeye/frogeye restoration project available at a reasonable
price? I'm after a fairly solid car structurally that doesn't have to be
"original" mechanically?
Would consider importing from USA at right price.
Regards
Chris Howes
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 07:56:56 EDT
Subject: Re: New Running Lights
<<<Where is the best place to mount the switch???>>. (BJ8)
One of our listers had an excellent suggestion a while back. For a BJ8 change
the two position panel light switch (second from right) to a three position
light switch (Like the one on far right).
Make the third position for driving lights and definitely use a relay. It
keeps the interior appearance original and neat.
If you are really trying to see better in the dark buy some Halogen
headlights at Pep Boys for $9.95 apiece, driving lights are generally useless
other than for show. (IMHO)
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 07:25:22 -0500
Subject: Re: New Running Lights
International Investor wrote:
> Bob -
>
> As far as the switches go, I bought one of those small
> toggle switch bezels you can buy at any good local
> auto parts store, and then mounted it to the screw
> which holds the centre console to the center piece on
> the dash. No drilling required and the little toggles
> look very original and are a little hidden.
>
If you really want to be sneaky (and I often am), you get yourself another
Healey
headlight switch. You then take out the stock on/off switch that controls your
panel lights and replace it w/ the "new" headlight switch. Wire the panel
lights
at the first click (old parking light setting) and the driving lights power to
the relay at the second click (old headlight setting).
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dsherm at mindspring.com (Daniel Sherman)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 12:41:36 GMT
Subject: not really Healey related
this is the only time I will send this. But to help promote the
auction I have on my site I am allowing anyone on this healey list to
be able to post any items for free. There are many areas and also
you can upload an image to be used in the auction.
While you are there check out the rest of the site.
If you go there then just send me a email saying you are on the list
and what handle you used in the auction and I will not bill you for
it. Plus if anyone has a online store for healey parts let me know
and we can arrange to link to you. Or if you don't then also contact
me and we can set you up with a store in our mall.
http://www.anyteddy.com
proud owner of a 62 Healey Sprite
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 08:51:36 EDT
Subject: All British Bash, "Marques on the Green,"
Next Saturday, June 2 the British Sports Car Club of Kentucky will host our
17th annual All British Bash, "Marques on the Green," in Louisville, KY.
This beautiful site offers the perfect setting to display your pride and joy,
and see well over a hundred and twenty-five fine British cars. The Bluegrass
Club will have our hospitality tent set up and you can expect to see up to
twenty Healeys as part of the show. Club regalia and free drinks will be
available in our tent.
Regalia and parts vendors will be on hand. Door Prizes will be awarded all
day and Car Show awards at 4 PM. Clunkers to classics, all are welcome! It
is a
special show and I am sure you will enjoy it.
Easy to find off River Road next to the Kingfish Restaurant. For directions,
map and more information check out the web site at <A
HREF="http://britishsportscarclub.com/";>BritishSportsCarClub.com</A> .
Hope to see you there!
James Werner
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
Louisville, KY
Visit our web site at BluegrassClub.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 11:49:13 EDT
Subject: Re: New Running Lights
> Are you guys talking about replacing the lights in
> back of the dash with halogen equivalents in order to improve night vision?
>
>
>
We were talking about Driving lights like the ones that go on the badge bar,
not dash lights. Jeff Zorn of Little British Car Company sells Halogen dash
lights. AH Spares has higher wattage dash lights also. 3.2 watts vs 2 watts
or something like that. I remember buying brighter bulbs locally at an
electronic supply house years ago.
MG owners report repainting the interior of gauges a brighter silver reflects
light better also.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 10:27:54 -0600
Subject: Esthetics
Dear esthetic listers,
I will be painting my 65 bj8 in the future and I am having a color dilemma.
The original color was "healey blue" but PO resprayed a gross brown. I would
like to built a reasonably correct car but not concours. As you all know BMC
painted with a limited palette. Can I spare us all another "healey blue"?
May I submit to you color scheme and pattern that caught my eye on e-bay.
Item # 591728099. Please take a look, as I value your input.
Repects, Sid, 65 bj8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 22:27:16 -0400
Subject: Re:BJ8 Covertible Frame Assembly
Just got a call from a friend who has a complete BJ8 convertible top
frame assembly with an old top. Anyone interested please contact me off
the list. Thanks and a happy Memorial Day.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 12:55:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Beautiful day in Paradise
It's been my experience that parking valets at the good restaurants are
almost always willing to let you leave the car at their station (in the
parking place they usually save for the Ferrari) because it lends some
distinction to the restaurant.
Similarly, whenever I've had reason to stop at a hotel to pick someone up, or
meet someone for coffee, or whatever, all I've had to do is politely ask the
head bell man or valet at the desk near the door if I could leave the car
there, and they've always been pleased to say yes. Just one of those
privileges that comes to those of us with good taste in cars.
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 5/27/01 10:26:26 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
<< We parked the
car outside the CPK in a "10 minute pick up" zone so we could keep an
eye on the car while we ate. Before I got out the "greeter" standing
inside the door walked outside. My wife says "he is going to tell us we
can't park here".
The kid says "great car, what is it", and did not ask us to move it. He
then went inside and got a buddy to show the car to him.
While we ate almost everyone that left the restaurant stopped to look at
the car. >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 10:50:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Beautiful day in Paradise
At 12:55 PM -0400 5/28/01, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>It's been my experience that parking valets at the good restaurants are
>almost always willing to let you leave the car at their station (in the
>parking place they usually save for the Ferrari) because it lends some
>distinction to the restaurant.
>Similarly, whenever I've had reason to stop at a hotel to pick someone up, or
>meet someone for coffee, or whatever, all I've had to do is politely ask the
>head bell man or valet at the desk near the door if I could leave the car
>there, and they've always been pleased to say yes. Just one of those
>privileges that comes to those of us with good taste in cars.
>Cheers
>Gary
>
Ha .. yeah that and the look on their face when they realize they are
on the wrong side of the car (mine is RHD) ... never failed in LA for
me. Almost always qualified for the top spot.
Rohan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 13:21:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Healey stopped
The only two times my Healey has come home on the hook in 33 years:
Check the small point and condensor wires inside the distributor to see
if the insulation has worn off, allowing the wire to ground against the
side of the distributor housing. It will only touch and kill the engine
at certain points as the mechanical and vacuum advances rotate the
points plate.
Also, check to make certain that the carbon post inside the distributor
cap hasn't stuck up unside the cap. Gently stretch the spring to make
sure the carbon pin is fully contacting the rotor.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 14:04:50 -0700
Subject: Running lights
Bob--you have to set the lights up so that they operate only with the
headlights
on and that they cut out when you switch to high beams. The best way to
do that
is to feed power to them off the dip switch. In this way the fog lamps
can't go
on unless the headlamps are on and second, the fog lamps will shut off
when you
switch to high beams. Run a line from the low beam side of the dip
switch to
terminal C1 of a relay. Run a second line from C2 to the lamps. Jump a
line
from C1 to relay terminal W1; run a second line from terminal W2 to an
on-off
switch and to ground. Put an in-line fuse between the dip switch and
terminal
C1. I mounted the relay on the driver's side up above the cockpit
panel. The
switch is a a simple on-off switch and can go almost anywhere. I put it
into a
small console I built to house some gauges. I used 12-gauge wire for
all
connections (14-gauge wire from W2 to on-off switch to ground), and
wrapped the
lines in shrink tubing for added insulation. The terminal designations
are for
Lucas relays. I used a smaller Bosch relay. Terminal designations are
W1 = 85,
W2 = 86, 30/51 = C1, 87 = C2. You can get these relays at any auto
supply
house. John Trifari 1955 BN1/1965 BJ8
Bob Smith wrote:
> Hello List,
>
> I'm new to the list and this will be my first request. I am about to
install
> running lights on my 67- BJ8. They attach to the Badge Bar. Where
should I
> connect to the 12 volt, and does anyone have a good routing for the
wire to
> the switch, and where is the best place to mount the switch??? Any
advice
> would be welcome. I've changed to a negative ground.
>
> Sincerely,
> Bob Smith
> BJ8 (red)
> P.S.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 18:11:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Esthetics
In a message dated 5/28/01 12:40:57 PM, bron@rmci.net writes:
<<May I submit to you color scheme and pattern that caught my eye on e-bay.
Item # 591728099. Please take a look, as I value your input.
Repects, Sid, 65 bj8
>>
Sid,
It's your car, paint it whatever color your heart desires! I happen to like
the colors Healeys came in originally and therefore have a Healey Blue BJ7
and a Cherry Red Bugeye. Silver over black looks great, though. Personally,
I'd rather see the shrouds, hood and trunk silver rather than black and I
suspect resale opportunities might suffer somewhat with the nontraditional
paint pattern. Whatever you do, it's got to be better than gross brown.
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Harrison, Ian" <Ian.Harrison at li.csiro.au>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 09:27:35 +1000
Subject: RE: New Running Lights
-----Original Message-----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com [mailto:Jwhlyadv@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, 28 May 2001 21:57
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: New Running Lights
On the subject of additional lighting and switching, a couple of
considerations:
Yep! driving lights look great! but do I have enough power/current to run
them? can I keep the stones and the crooks away? what do I have to do to
mount them? "badge bar, holes in bumper tray or dashboard for the switch etc
etc?
With a generator you'll be hamstrung by the limitation of available power to
run a good set of QI lights and the original low beam lights together. You
need at least 100w QI lamps to make a truly good long range beam and it
needs to be blue/white in colour to be operating at optimum efficiency. If
Qi's operate in the yellow spectrum they will die prematurely as the
designed chemical/electrical characteristics are not met.
If you need serious lights then move to an alternator 55A or bigger, install
a double fused relay as close to the lights as possible, with a 6mm or
bigger cable direct to the battery, remove as much voltage drop/resistance
from the cabling as possible by increasing the cross section/size. install
QI lights in the headlamps or add driving lights.
Ciebe used to make a BIODE,it had two reflectors and two separate lamps in
the one standard headlamp assembly, the best of both worlds, a spot and a
fog lamp in one package. The best way to run these on the open road is to
run high and low beam together, to do this is very simple, a wire bridge on
the dip switch between the low beam terminal and the common terminal, ie,
the low beam will always be on and when you operate the dip switch you will
switch high beam on or off. You can place whatever size lamp in either
reflector ie, 80w/100w/130W/150w, if you have ever driven behind 600w on the
open road you will know how much safer it is, "dipping them is fairly
important to oncoming traffic"!!!
Notwithstanding the above, If originality is the ultimate objective,
including original lights and generator you can't do ANYTHING. However, if
you are content to slip beneath concours standard "and I'm not sure how it
could/should be done" the inclusion of a well hidden fused relay (close to
the lights) and well hidden larger wiring will serve to reduce resistance
and allow more voltage to the original lights, thus more light!! "strive to
have the voltage at the battery at the lights also"
When calculating the power demand for your lights make the voltage 12v for
the calculations ie 600W/12=50A
however you should have in reality at least 13.2V, particulary if they are
QI's.
(No commercial interest)
Ian
BN4
Aus
<<<Where is the best place to mount the switch???>>. (BJ8)
One of our listers had an excellent suggestion a while back. For a BJ8
change
the two position panel light switch (second from right) to a three position
light switch (Like the one on far right).
Make the third position for driving lights and definitely use a relay. It
keeps the interior appearance original and neat.
If you are really trying to see better in the dark buy some Halogen
headlights at Pep Boys for $9.95 apiece, driving lights are generally
useless
other than for show. (IMHO)
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Koss" <cmos at ieee.org>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 18:56:18 -0500
Subject: Replacing door sills on a 3000
Hi - I've got a 1961 3000 that needs the inner door sills replaced (about the
only rust on the car). Anyone know of any text or books with any guidance on
the removal and installation? The optimum would be a restoration book with
pictures. :)
Thanks for the help in advance.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 19:59:50 -0400
Subject: Trafficator repairs
I've been watching the thread on the positioning of the Steeriing wheel and it
reminded me that my left blinker is not working. I've isolated it to a bad
trafficator -- the bulbs are working, wiring is good, relay is good but I get
no "click" when I move the lever left as I do when I move it right which is
working properly. I've popped off the chrome ring and horn button and now
question if it is possible to repair the trafficator "guts" with it installed
or should I remove it completely from the car?? If I have to remove it, does
this assembly come off without taking the entire stator tube out?
Thanks for any help.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 18:02:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Trafficator repairs
John -
Hate to tell you this, but the trafficator is best
repaired out of the car. It's not a big deal to
remove it, just tie a string to the trafficarot loom
before pulling it through the gearbox (adjustable
steering - for fixed steering the whole stator tube
comes out). I guess if you have fixed steering, you
still have to pull out the stator far enough to get at
the back of a trafficator with a screwdriver - might
as well remove the whole damn thing.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- healey6 <healey6@optonline.net> wrote:
>
> I've been watching the thread on the positioning of
> the Steeriing wheel and it reminded me that my left
> blinker is not working. I've isolated it to a bad
> trafficator -- the bulbs are working, wiring is
> good, relay is good but I get no "click" when I move
> the lever left as I do when I move it right which is
> working properly. I've popped off the chrome ring
> and horn button and now question if it is possible
> to repair the trafficator "guts" with it installed
> or should I remove it completely from the car?? If I
> have to remove it, does this assembly come off
> without taking the entire stator tube out?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 19:31:07 -0700
Subject: How tight should the U-bolts be?
Hello,
I had the veering sensation in the rear of my 100. I was told to check the rear
U-bolts that hold the rear axal to the leaf springs. They are loose.
So how tight should they be?
Brian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 23:40:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Alignment
In a message dated 5/24/2001 9:49:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
>
>
> While they are beautiful cars, just below the surface Austin-Healeys are
> realtive straight forward. It never ceases to amaze me that the sum of
> parts from very ordinary motor cars went together to form something so
> magical.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick
>
Correct you are. Just got back this evening (Monday) from a Memorial Day
weekend Golden Gate Austin Healey Club three day tour of light houses and
missions down the California coast between San Francisco and San Luis Obispo.
Seven hundred miles of great Healey driving, education and fellowship.
Erika performed terrific.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 22:13:32 -0700
Subject: CHW scenic tour to Rio Bravo
CHW:
Anybody going to CHW on Thursday that would like a scenic drive from
west LA up through Malibu, Oxnard, Ojai and then north on route 33
through some great hills and roads to Bakersfield, here is our proposed
route.
You can meet us in Marina del Rey or along the way.
Call me, or e-mail. We will have our cell phone on as we travel if you
want to rendezvous.
Ron & Debi
Raders Route to Rio Bravo:
Leave Marina del Rey at 10.00 AM Thursday morning.
Miles Minutes
Leave Marina del Rey and drive to Santa Monica 4
miles 10
Santa Monica to Malibu on Highway 1 14
miles 28
Malibu to Oxnard on Highway 1 37
miles 50
Oxnard to Highway
101 2 miles
5
To Highway 33
North 7
miles 10
Follow route 33 North towards Ojai. 11
miles 14
65 miles 2 hours
Stop in Ojai for
lunch
1 hour
Stay on 33 toward Wheeler Springs,
Continue north toward Lockwood,
Continue north toward Ventucopa,
Continue north until 33 Ts into 166
51 miles
Turn right onto 33 /
166 14 miles
Turn right on 166 (Paso Street / Maricopa highway)
Continue due east and cross the 5
About 2 miles farther turn left (north) on 99
24 miles
Continue north and take the 178 East exit.
25 miles
114 miles 2 hours
Total: 179 miles 5 hours
Arrive at app. 3.00 PM.
>From here follow Ralph's directions in last weeks Healey motor news to
Rio Bravo,
which is about ___ miles further and should take ____ minutes.
Ron Rader
Ofc: 310.337.7000 ext. 111
Res.: 310.306.6060
Cell: 310.245.2200
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 22:35:45 -0700
Subject: Running Lights
In the midst of all the discussion on lights, the thread has gone from
'running lights' (Bob Smith, 5/27/01), to the installation of 'driving lights'
and now to 'fog lights'. My first thought when Bob said 'running lights' was
what is on new cars - lights that come on at reduced power when you turn your
ignition on and remain on while you are driving. My intuition tells me,
however, that Bob meant 'driving lights' - bright, long distance or broad beam
lights for better vision at night.
John Trifari's mention of going through the dip switch applies but, in this
case, the connections must be made so as to only allow the driving lights to
come on with high beams if that is required where you live.
I have looked in the California Vehicle Code to confirm that driving lights
are for supplementing high beam and may not be lighted with the lower beam
(Section 24402 (a). However, to confuse matters further, and new to me, 24402
(b) refers to 'passing lamps'. "Passing lamps are lamps designed for
supplementing the lower beam and may also be lighted with the upper beam".
Now I have to find out what passing lamps are. I have never heard of them
'til now.
Len.
1967 3000 Mk III BJ8
Vacaville, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 06:22:50 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Running Lights
In a message dated 5/29/01 6:21:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Awgertoo writes:
<< In a message dated 5/29/01 1:39:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
<< lights that come on at reduced power >>
Doesn't the statement "reduced power" apply to all of Lucas' lights?
Michael Oritt >>
Return-path: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
Full-name: Awgertoo
Message-ID: <15.14ff1258.2844d22e@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 06:21:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Running Lights
To: thehartnetts@earthlink.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 124
In a message dated 5/29/01 1:39:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
<< lights that come on at reduced power >>
Doesn't the statement "reduced power" apply to all of Lucas' lights?
Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 09:13:57 -0400
Subject: It's all in the timing..
Hi everyone.. I had her out over the weekend, between the rain drops, man
she was running good.. until around 4K RPM then I noticed a slight miss.. My
question is this: On the distributor there is the knurled knob for
advancing or retarding the timing... When you advance the timing are you
setting it to advance past TDC? by the same token when you retard the
timing are you setting it to BTDC?... With this in mind, if you want to be
at 8 degrees BTDC, and you originally were set up for TDC, you must retard
the timing.. is this correct? I'm sooo cornfused.... TIA
Steve
61BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 10:14:04 -0400
Subject: Re: It's all in the timing..
Steve,
It's just the opposite. Normal setting is 15 degrees before top dead
center.
Advancing the timing would make it MORE than 15 degrees before TDC;
retarding LESS than 15 degrees. If you are currently set at TDC (pointer
right on pulley notch) then you must ADVANCE 15 degrees to be correct.
This is easiest with a timing light equipped with an advance dial. The
knurled
knob you refer to is usually used to fine tune for varying grades of
gasoline,
and probably will not turn far enough to make a major alteration, since 5
clicks of the knob equals one degree of timing change.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 9:13 AM
Subject: It's all in the timing..
>
> Hi everyone.. I had her out over the weekend, between the rain drops, man
> she was running good.. until around 4K RPM then I noticed a slight miss..
My
> question is this: On the distributor there is the knurled knob for
> advancing or retarding the timing... When you advance the timing are you
> setting it to advance past TDC? by the same token when you retard the
> timing are you setting it to BTDC?... With this in mind, if you want to be
> at 8 degrees BTDC, and you originally were set up for TDC, you must retard
> the timing.. is this correct? I'm sooo cornfused.... TIA
>
> Steve
> 61BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 11:19:36 -0700
Subject: Info
To the list: I will be in the Madison, Wisconsin area next week on
buisness. Is there anything Healey in the way of parts or cars that I
should see while I'm there. Inquiring minds want to know !!!
--
Edward D. Santoro, M.S.
Monitoring Coordinator
Delaware River Basin Commission
25 State Police Drive
West Trenton, NJ
08628
Tel:609 883-9500 ext 268
Fax:609 883-9522
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 09:05:38 -0700
Subject: Parades and heat
Our car club participated in a memorial day parade yesterday. We decorated
the cars with lots of American flags and balloons. We only had one person
yell about the cars being British and it was an American holiday.
Parades being stop and go, are very good at raising engine temperatures.
The car endured well but the heat coming from the vent tube was very hot.
I am missing the little door on the drivers side to adjust the heat or
ventilation. How many of you actually use the door? I could blank it off
very easily.
Jerry
BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 11:20:43 -0500
Subject: RE: Smitty 5-Speed Installation Website
I have been chastised by a politically correct lister for using the term
"Jap" when referring to Japanese (Toyota parts). My intention was to pass
along information that might be useful to some listers and not to bash any
ethnic group. I do this the same as I use "Brits" to mean the British. If
this offends anyone, well...sorry about that.
Jack Brashear
-----Original Message-----
From: CEWPlatt@aol.com [mailto:CEWPlatt@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 9:42 PM
To: jnbrashear@garverinc.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Smitty 5-Speed Installation Website
Another good point is that the parts listed in the tech manual is for a one
specific year and car and these parts were not compatible for the year
trans
I selected. I had to go to a toyota dealer and look at their parts lists to
get the right parts. Make sure you write down the year and model of the car
the trans came out of or you'll have a hard time finding the right parts.
Not
all of the toyota trans were exactly the same.
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TimWardUK at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 12:45:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Smitty 5-Speed Installation Website
I am quite happy to be called a Brit - an "Eng" doesn't quite work! The
Healey is probably the most politically incorrect car I've ever had, and long
main it remain so. I suspect its owners often are as well, which is no bad
thing in this freeze wrapped era.
Tim
Tim Ward
Warwick House
12 Mill Road
Kislingbury
Northants. NN7 4BB
Tel/Fax: 44.1604.832.901
E-Mail: TimWardUk@aol.com
Mobile: 44.7855.388.751
www.TimWardAssociates.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 12:48:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Running Lights
In a message dated 5/28/01 10:39:35 PM, thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
<< John Trifari's mention of going through the dip switch applies but, in this
case, the connections must be made so as to only allow the driving lights to
come on with high beams if that is required where you live. >>
I'm pretty sure that would be standard in most states -- wouldn't one assume
that the supplementary long-distance driving lights should automatically turn
off when the regular head lights are dipped for oncoming traffic?
Trivia -- Mini Coopers would have won the Monte Carlo Rally in 1966, making
it a four-year sweep from 64-67, had it now been for being disqualified
because their long-distance driving lights were switched separately from
their high beams.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 11:12:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Parades and heat
Jerry I live in Canada and I use the "little door" all the time in the
winter. The few summer days that it gets too hot the door gets closed. I
would imagine in California it could be permanently closed...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0@attglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 9:05 AM
Subject: Parades and heat
>
> Our car club participated in a memorial day parade yesterday. We
decorated
> the cars with lots of American flags and balloons. We only had one person
> yell about the cars being British and it was an American holiday.
>
> Parades being stop and go, are very good at raising engine temperatures.
> The car endured well but the heat coming from the vent tube was very hot.
> I am missing the little door on the drivers side to adjust the heat or
> ventilation. How many of you actually use the door? I could blank it off
> very easily.
>
> Jerry
> BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 21:19:07 +0100
Subject: FW: Non-healey related diesel query!
Forgive me if you've seen this once or twice- I've been having
email problems. MY ISP changed my address . Say no more.
-----Original Message-----
From: simon.lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan@virgin.net]
Sent: 25 May 2001 14:24
To: Healeys
Subject: FW: Non-healey related diesel query!
-----Original Message-----
From: simon.lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan@virgin.net]
Sent: 24 May 2001 19:50
To: Healeys
Subject: Non-healey related diesel query!
I have a question for you experts....
Which domestic heating oil is identical to - or closest to -
regular (car) diesel fuel?
And how does one identify it...I mean by what descriptive code or
whatever can one identify one grade of fuel from another??
I have a bet on this with a friend. Not a big one, but we cannot
seem to get a definitive answer.
Thanks...
Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 21:21:56 +0100
Subject: FW: Fuel pump inadequate?
Sorry for repetition. ISP trouble. I was cut off - don't know who
received what over last week.
-----Original Message-----
From: simon.lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan@virgin.net]
Sent: 25 May 2001 14:24
To: Healeys
Subject: FW: Fuel pump inadequate?
-----Original Message-----
From: simon.lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan@virgin.net]
Sent: 24 May 2001 19:50
To: Healeys
Subject: Fuel pump inadequate?
I have converted my MkII BT7 from three HS4 to three HD6s. The
car runs well and has loads more power.
The pump is standard and has never given any problems. (So far,
touch wood).
So....the other day I was stuck behind two trucks on a steep
hill. When my chance came, I stuck her into third and floored the
pedal. She went off like a rocket, did the business and I got by.
But there was a fairly dramatic hiccup halfway. Felt just like
fuel starvation. Could it be that my pump cannot shift enough
fuel for the three bigger carbs and modified head etc??
Or, if this is unlikely, do I look for a constriction in the fuel
system.
I have no pressure regulator.
I have a Jag type glass bowl filter near no.1 carb. Has a new
element and the in-carb filters are all A1.
Any ideas??
Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 13:52:03 -0700
Subject: Smoke Prevention
Thanks to all those who helped me with my wiring dilema. It's all sorted
out now, and things make a whole lot more sense. I am very thankful for
this list, and the listers who participate.
Martin
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 14:35:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Running Lights
Gary, et al: Maybe we had best get this straightened out. First some
terminology. For the remainder of this reply, I use the term "auxiliary" lights
to refer to what have come to be called "running" lights, and which cover "fog"
lights and "driving" lights (eg Flamethrowers). I have a 1992 BMW with
auxiliarylights configured as foggers--lights that illuminate down and to the
side. They operate ONLY in conjunction with the the BMW's low beams, and
automatically cut off when the high beams are used, including when I use the
high-beam "flasher" on the light stalk. These lights are integral to the car,
not
an "add-on" as is discussed in this thread. I would assume that there is no
difference between "integrals" and "add-ons" (as would apply to the Healey since
Healeys did not come from the factory with aux lights. And lets not start
another
thread on that subject), and that my BMW meets CA regulations, since it was sold
to us new in this state by a licensed CA dealer. I would also assume that the
car
is not unique--probably your own family car has auxiliary lights such as these
that operate only with the low beams. Moreover, as I am sure all of you have
seen, these auxiliary lights are commonly used by drivers at night in
conjunction
with the low beams fog or no fog. I would assume that they too cut out when the
high beams are applied. Can't say for sure. Anyway I used the BMW as a model
for
the installation of my own auxiliary lights--eg, they operate only when the low
beams are on and cut off when the high beams are on. For that reason they draw
power from the low-beam side of the dip switch.
You are right about one thing: it does make more sense to have the auxiliary
lights operate in conjunction with the high beams so you can see something and
take max advantage of the increased lighting--rather than solely with the low
beams. It also make sense to have the system set up so that you can cut down
the
high-beam/aux light combination when traffic approaches. Using my BMW as a
guide,
though, common sense does not seem to fit in with the way new cars are
configured
in CA, nor do I see many people driving at night with an aux lamp/high beam
combination. It would also seem that the way new cars are configured might
serve
as an appropriate guide for the way Healeys with aux lamps should be configured.
So we are left with two questions: First, if it is required to turn off
auxiliary lights (including fog lights) to accommodate on-coming traffic, is
there
a way to do this automatically? Can't think of one. The dip switch is on-on.
It's either high beams or low beams. There's no "off" position. So if you have
your aux lights on with your low beams, the only way you can use the dip switch
to
kill the aux lights is to switch on your high beams. No help there. I simply
use
my dashboard on-off switch when traffic approaches. Second, Is there an
installation difference between auxiliary lights configured as fog lights (down
and to the side) as opposed to those configured as "driving" lights (EG
Flamethrowers, off road truck lights, PIAA 80s or any light designed to shine
ahead of standard high beams)? If not, why does the law apparently say one
thing,
according to what I am reading off the list, and why are cars for sale in this
state configured differently? Or does it matter at all? John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 17:39:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Running Lights (answers)
In a message dated 5/29/01 2:30:54 PM, john4@home.com writes:
<<
Gary, et al: Maybe we had best get this straightened out. First some
terminology. For the remainder of this reply, I use the term "auxiliary"
lights
to refer to what have come to be called "running" lights, and which cover
"fog"
lights and "driving" lights (eg Flamethrowers). I have a 1992 BMW with
auxiliarylights configured as foggers--lights that illuminate down and to the
side. They operate ONLY in conjunction with the the BMW's low beams, and
automatically cut off when the high beams are used, including when I use the
high-beam "flasher" on the light stalk. These lights are integral to the
car, not
an "add-on" as is discussed in this thread. I would assume that there is no
difference between "integrals" and "add-ons" (as would apply to the Healey
since
Healeys did not come from the factory with aux lights. And lets not start
another
thread on that subject), and that my BMW meets CA regulations, since it was
sold
to us new in this state by a licensed CA dealer. I would also assume that
the car
is not unique--probably your own family car has auxiliary lights such as these
that operate only with the low beams. Moreover, as I am sure all of you have
seen, these auxiliary lights are commonly used by drivers at night in
conjunction
with the low beams fog or no fog. I would assume that they too cut out when
the
high beams are applied. Can't say for sure. Anyway I used the BMW as a
model for
the installation of my own auxiliary lights--eg, they operate only when the
low
beams are on and cut off when the high beams are on. For that reason they
draw
power from the low-beam side of the dip switch.
You are right about one thing: it does make more sense to have the auxiliary
lights operate in conjunction with the high beams so you can see something and
take max advantage of the increased lighting--rather than solely with the low
beams. It also make sense to have the system set up so that you can cut down
the
high-beam/aux light combination when traffic approaches. Using my BMW as a
guide,
though, common sense does not seem to fit in with the way new cars are
configured
in CA, nor do I see many people driving at night with an aux lamp/high beam
combination. It would also seem that the way new cars are configured might
serve
as an appropriate guide for the way Healeys with aux lamps should be
configured.
So we are left with two questions: First, if it is required to turn off
auxiliary lights (including fog lights) to accommodate on-coming traffic, is
there
a way to do this automatically? Can't think of one. The dip switch is on-on.
It's either high beams or low beams. There's no "off" position. So if you
have
your aux lights on with your low beams, the only way you can use the dip
switch to
kill the aux lights is to switch on your high beams. No help there. I simply
use
my dashboard on-off switch when traffic approaches. Second, Is there an
installation difference between auxiliary lights configured as fog lights
(down
and to the side) as opposed to those configured as "driving" lights (EG
Flamethrowers, off road truck lights, PIAA 80s or any light designed to shine
ahead of standard high beams)? If not, why does the law apparently say one
thing,
according to what I am reading off the list, and why are cars for sale in this
state configured differently? Or does it matter at all? John >>
All of these questioned are adressed in the CA vehicle code online at:
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/vc/tocd12c2a2.htm
But to summarize, Fog lights are used with the LOW BEAMS only (as are our
BMW's), Driving lights are used with HIGH BEAMS only. Both of these
applications are covered by the vehicle code with specific directions as to
hight from ground, brightness, and aimings. Most states follow CA lead on
most issues.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 14:37:49 -0700
Subject: Anyone on the list
Just wondered if anyone on the list was the buyer for this car from eBay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=591476098
Seems like it went for a rather low price, no?
Bill Katz
Bay Area, CA
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 15:01:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Running Lights
John: My reference is to 'driving lights'. I think that in the case of fog
lights, the logical thing to do is use low beams since you want to reduce
glare as much as possible. With driving lights, you want as much light as
possible both forward and to the edges of the road.
For your info, following are the sections of the Vehicle Code that I
referenced plus the section on foglamps ( my copy is dated 1996 but I do not
think that these sections have changed):
Chapter 2. Lighting Equipment. Article 2. Headlamps and Auxiliary Lamps.
Auxiliary Driving and Passing Lamps. 24402. (a) Any motor vehicle may be
equipped with not to exceed two auxiliary driving lamps mounted on the front
at a height of not less than 16 inches nor more than 42 inches. Driving
lamps are lamps designed for supplementing the upper beam from headlamps and
may not be lighted with the lower beam.
(b) Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two auxiliary
passing lamps mounted on the front at a height of not less than 24 inches
nor more than 42 inches. Passing lamps are lamps designed for supplementing
the lower beam from headlamps and may also be lighted with the upper beam.
Foglamps. 24403. Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two
foglamps which may be used with, but shall not be used in substitution of,
headlamps.. Fog lamps shall be mounted on the front at a height of not less
than 12 inches nor more than 30 inches and so aimed that when the vehicle is
not loaded none of the high-intensity portion of the light to the left of
the center of the vehicle shall at a distance of 25 feet ahead project
higher than a level of four inches below the level of the center of the lamp
from which it comes.
(Now aren't you sorry that you asked?)
This article also covers headlamps in general, dimmed lights on parked
vehicles, spotlamps, maximum number of lamps, multiple beams, upper and
lower beam, use of multiple beams, off-highway use, etc.
So, your concept of foglights/low beam and my concept of driving lights/high
beam are both correct or at least logical (the government logical? Isn't
that an oxymoron?).
Now - what do you know about 'passing lamps'?
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Trifari" <john4@home.com>
To: "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Cc: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: Running Lights
> Len--do I understand you correctly: Running lights (i.e. aux lights, fog
lights,
> Flamethrowers, whatever) must come on only with the HIGH beams?
>
> "John Trifari's mention of going through the dip switch applies but, in
this
> case, the connections must be made so as to only allow the driving lights
to
> come on with high beams if that is required where you live." and
>
> "I have looked in the California Vehicle Code to confirm that driving
lights
> are for supplementing high beam and may not be lighted with the lower
beam..."
>
> My understanding was that running lights must cut off when the high beams
are used
> and that they can be used only with the LOW beams. If I'm wrong on this,
please
> let me know so I can redo the dip switch connections. John
>
> Marge and/or Len Hartnett wrote:
>
> > In the midst of all the discussion on lights, the thread has gone from
> > 'running lights' (Bob Smith, 5/27/01), to the installation of 'driving
lights'
> > and now to 'fog lights'. My first thought when Bob said 'running
lights' was
> > what is on new cars - lights that come on at reduced power when you turn
your
> > ignition on and remain on while you are driving. My intuition tells me,
> > however, that Bob meant 'driving lights' - bright, long distance or
broad beam
> > lights for better vision at night.
> >
> > John Trifari's mention of going through the dip switch applies but, in
this
> > case, the connections must be made so as to only allow the driving
lights to
> > come on with high beams if that is required where you live.
> >
> > I have looked in the California Vehicle Code to confirm that driving
lights
> > are for supplementing high beam and may not be lighted with the lower
beam
> > (Section 24402 (a). However, to confuse matters further, and new to me,
24402
> > (b) refers to 'passing lamps'. "Passing lamps are lamps designed for
> > supplementing the lower beam and may also be lighted with the upper
beam".
> > Now I have to find out what passing lamps are. I have never heard of
them
> > 'til now.
> >
> > Len.
> > 1967 3000 Mk III BJ8
> > Vacaville, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 17:51:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 3000 main bearings follow-up
There where some talks about possible junk bearings for the 3000 last
week on the list. Following Mike Salter's advice (relayed by John
Snyder) I measured the bearings I.D. without shells and with caps
torqued down.
The reading was 2.5210 for the horizontal I.D., just next to the
joint (no pressure from the crank) and more like 2.5220 and over on
the vertical I.D. Taking the 0.07705 to 0.0771 thickness of the
bearing shells, and my 0.010 under crank pins (nominal 2.3642" to
2.3647) I calculated my running clearances (0.0037 worst case).
The result is consistent my plastigauge readings of consistently
0.003 on #1, 0.003 and slightly over on #2 and #3 and 0.0015 to 0.002
on #4. Note that I had the plastigauge on the TOP side of the
bearings, that is on the cap side with the engine upside down, not
UNDER as prescribed.
BOTTOM LINE: with bearings cap I.D. of 2.5210 and the bearings at
0.07705 to 0.0771 you will get a clearance of 0.0021 to 0.0027 with
nominal 0.010 journals!
Unless someone screams, I will keep my clearances in the 0.003 area
and torque the caps a bit tight although I would love to have tighter
tolerances to match what I have on the rod pins (I.e. 0.002 to
0.0015). Would you consider shimming under the shells or sanding the
caps some?
Francois
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 17:57:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: It's all in the timing..
Stephen -
firing before TDC is advance. Firing after TDC is
retarded.
By the way, a BN7 should be timed advanced, or BTDC -
it should not be timed TDC.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
wrote:
>
> Hi everyone.. I had her out over the weekend,
> between the rain drops, man
> she was running good.. until around 4K RPM then I
> noticed a slight miss.. My
> question is this: On the distributor there is the
> knurled knob for
> advancing or retarding the timing... When you
> advance the timing are you
> setting it to advance past TDC? by the same token
> when you retard the
> timing are you setting it to BTDC?... With this in
> mind, if you want to be
> at 8 degrees BTDC, and you originally were set up
> for TDC, you must retard
> the timing.. is this correct? I'm sooo
> cornfused.... TIA
>
> Steve
> 61BN7
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 18:08:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: FW: Fuel pump inadequate?
Simon -
Lack of fuel pressure shouldn't be a problem if you're
passing, unless your fuel pump is on the fritz.
Typically when you're on the road, your float chambers
should be plenty full of fuel for passing. The floats
should hold enough gas for a good 3-5 minutes of solid
running.
What it really sounds like to me is if you got a
hiccup, maybe the needles you are running on your HD6s
aren't right for the set-up. Since you've switched it
to a non standard set up, you should spend some time
experimenting with your carb. piston springs & jet
needles until its all set up right.
Also, if the hiccup occurs while you are accellerating
initially, make sure your dashpots have the right oil
in them... that'll make a big difference.
Last but not least. Grose jets can have a tendency to
stick. Did you put any on your HD6s? If so, that may
be your problem also.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@virgin.net> wrote:
>
> Sorry for repetition. ISP trouble. I was cut off -
> don't know who
> received what over last week.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: simon.lachlan
> [mailto:simon.lachlan@virgin.net]
> Sent: 25 May 2001 14:24
> To: Healeys
> Subject: FW: Fuel pump inadequate?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: simon.lachlan
> [mailto:simon.lachlan@virgin.net]
> Sent: 24 May 2001 19:50
> To: Healeys
> Subject: Fuel pump inadequate?
>
> I have converted my MkII BT7 from three HS4 to three
> HD6s. The
> car runs well and has loads more power.
> The pump is standard and has never given any
> problems. (So far,
> touch wood).
>
> So....the other day I was stuck behind two trucks on
> a steep
> hill. When my chance came, I stuck her into third
> and floored the
> pedal. She went off like a rocket, did the business
> and I got by.
> But there was a fairly dramatic hiccup halfway. Felt
> just like
> fuel starvation. Could it be that my pump cannot
> shift enough
> fuel for the three bigger carbs and modified head
> etc??
> Or, if this is unlikely, do I look for a
> constriction in the fuel
> system.
> I have no pressure regulator.
> I have a Jag type glass bowl filter near no.1 carb.
> Has a new
> element and the in-carb filters are all A1.
>
> Any ideas??
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 21:26:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Running Lights
John's comments show how easy it is to get lost in our own semantics. There
are two kinds of auxiliary lights that are/were mounted on British cars --
long-distance driving lights that were useful when one was going over 100mph
on an unfamiliar road, and fog lights which were useful to get low light
under the fog layer and unto the pavement when regular lights just reflect
off the fog.
The two types of lights would be switched to do very different things. The
high-speed driving lights (like the Lucas "Flame-throwers") should only turn
on to supplement the high beams, and then should switch off when the high
beams are dipped for oncoming traffic. The fog lights should only switch on
when the low beams are being used, since by their nature they wouldn't be
very useful in a situation when high beams are being used. In fact, on my 64
Jaguar Mark II, with integral Lucas fog lights, when the fog lights are
switched on, the headlights switch off entirely!
So, if you're mounting long-distance driving lights, I would think you would
wire them through the high-beam wire, and if you're mounting fog lights, you
would wire them through the low-beam wire or even wire them completely
separately, so they could be turned on without turning on the headlights at
all.
That seems to make more sense to me.
Cheers
gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 18:31:09 -0700
Subject: alternator conversion Thanks
Thanks to all that responded regarding the wiring issues that I had on
the alternator coversion of my BT7, especially John Trifari. I think
I got worked out, but I won't really know until I get alittle closer
to actually starting the beast. The restoration is 2 years old this
week and I am hopeful that I will make it to Tahoe next year.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From International Investor <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 18:46:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: The term "JAP" - POLITICALLY CORRECT??
Jack -
As an American who is of Chinese/Cherokee/Swiss decent
and used to be called "Jap" as a kid eventhough I was
of partial Chinese decent (believe it or not, that's
even worse than calling a scot an englishman), your
mistake was that you used the term "Jap" without
having a tastless politically incorrect joke attached
with it. This is your mistake.
Of course as far as I can tell there's not a whole lot
of good tastless jokes about the Japanese in the
english language. Hard to make jokes about a people
who work hard, are well edjucated, supply the world
with fantastic cars and electronics, and pulled their
country up by their bootstraps after WWII. But then
again, also hard to make jokes about a people who
sytematically raped, murdered, and killed more people
than the Nazis ever have hoped to do and yet deny to
this day to their people and their children in school.
300,000 people killed in only two weeks in Nanjing in
1939. Even Johnathan Rabe, Nazi party member and
resident in Nanjing was horrified and complained
directly to Hitler about the Japanese. He was
summarily demoted as a result. Or what about the
250,000 killed in two weeks by Japanese Marines in
Manila in 1944. The list goes on and on. Japan, a
defeated nation, has never apologized for this stuff,
is this weird or what?
Oh well, whatever it is, you probably shouldn't have
used the term "Jap" in a public forum. Just buy their
goods and leave it at that. Not that I'm defending
the Chinese, but you have to wonder about the
"American" EP-3 taking off from "Japan" to spy on
"China" ... maybe now you can understand why something
like this makes the Chinese so mad.
By the way, note that I do not hyphenate my "American"
nationality, I'm American, period. "Asian-Americans"
and "African-Americans" are more than welcome to go
back to their respective "first-word" continents - sue
me if you think I'm not PC. Theodore Roosevelt was a
great man for speaking out against
Hyphenated-Americanism.
But that's just it. As far as I'm concerned, any
American of Japanese decent is an "American," and
using the term "JAP" in the US is entirely
disrespectful to these people, Senator Inoue from
Hawaii for example.
But then again, if you're talking about the Japanese
from Japan, you can call them whatever you want - but
be sure you make the distinction! Now if I can only
get Bush to make nice with the Chinese before I regret
voting for the man. Is China is a bigger threat to
the US than Afganistan, North Korea, Bosnia, or the
Middle East? Of course not. Do the Japanese owe the
world a big fat apology? You bet. Now if I could
only do something about that crappy Taiwanese bumper
on my BJ8. What was it that I was talking about????
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear@GarverInc.com>
wrote:
>
> I have been chastised by a politically correct
> lister for using the term
> "Jap" when referring to Japanese (Toyota parts). My
> intention was to pass
> along information that might be useful to some
> listers and not to bash any
> ethnic group. I do this the same as I use "Brits"
> to mean the British. If
> this offends anyone, well...sorry about that.
> Jack Brashear
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 22:00:04 EDT
Subject: Hot Mini
Looking for the collective wisdom of the List. We are helping a 17 year old
with his 67 Mini Cooper S. The problem is the car will overheat after only
driving two miles, (note the relatively short distance). The electric
Temperature gauge will steadily rise to the hot zone, not immediately peg
indicating a short.
New T-stat installed by owner and the water in the radiator gets hot so I
assume it's opening.
Last night I checked dwell and timing, both correct. Compression test showed
210 lb. in all four cylinders with only a 5 LB variance so I doubt a head
gasket failure. No sign of water in oil. No signs of bubbles in radiator with
car running.
Water pump shows no bearing movement. They inform me they disconnected the
upper radiator hose with car running and had flow from the hose tonight. How
much flow there should be is unknown but they had some flow. Radiator appears
clean and no rust evident in the system.
Any ideas out there where to go next? I suspect Water Pump but before
changing it any other suggestions? The Mini engine is so similar to the
Sprite I thought maybe some of the list members might have ideas I can pass
along.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 22:02:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Running Lights
In a message dated 5/29/01 18:29:16, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< So, if you're mounting long-distance driving lights, I would think you
would
wire them through the high-beam wire, and if you're mounting fog lights, you
would wire them through the low-beam wire or even wire them completely
separately, so they could be turned on without turning on the headlights at
all. >>
Driving with only fog lights (or other auxilary lights) is a no-no according
to the CA code that I read today, and cited in earlier post.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 22:08:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Hot Mini
Jim,
The Sprite fan is a puller while the Mini fan is a pusher, make sure that
the correct fan is on the car. Car still should not heat up that fast. Are
you sure the temp guage is right? Try sticking the sender in a pot of boiling
hot water and see where the guage reads to be sure it is correct.
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
In a message dated 5/29/01 10:02:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Jwhlyadv@aol.com writes:
> The Mini engine is so similar to the
> Sprite I thought maybe some of the list members might have ideas I can pass
> along.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 10:11:23 +0800
Subject: Tahoe 2002
Hi All
Could someone please advise the expected dates for the Tahoe meet in 2002.
Being down under with our very low dollar we will have to start saving now
for the trip.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 on the road at last.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 19:15:15 -0700
Subject: Re: The term "JAP" - POLITICALLY CORRECT?? (No Healey content)
At 06:46 PM 5/29/2001, International Investor wrote:
[massive, irrelevant rant snipped]
>...Now if I could only do something about that crappy Taiwanese bumper
>on my BJ8.
At last! Something to do with Healeys! I can't believe I read the whole thing.
<quibble>
Actually, "JAP", in all uppercase, as an acronym, has a whole other un-PC
meaning most familiar in the Northeastern US. But that's irrelevent, too.
</quibble>
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 19:40:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Tahoe 2002
At 10:11 AM 5/30/2001, John Rowe wrote:
>Could someone please advise the expected dates for the Tahoe meet in 2002.
>
>Being down under with our very low dollar we will have to start saving now
>for the trip.
June 23-28. See <http://www.healey2002.com/>.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 13:01:42 +1000
Subject: RE: Hot Mini plus a little Japanese trivia
Greetings Jim
Besides Healeys and Austin-Healeys I have had a life long affection for the
Mini and over the years have had eleven bricks pass through my hands. There
have been 850s, Coopers, Cooper 'S's and Deluxe model plus still have a
1970 Mini Van that is ripe for restoration.
Now I happen to know that even the British wouldn't build a car that would
overheat that quickly. It's good advice reminding us that the Mini fan
pushes through the side mounted radiator instead of drawing back through. It
is quite possible to install the fan back to front so that's the first thing
I would check. There should be copious amounts of hot air exiting from under
the front left guard.
I had one Cooper 'S' that could only be used in traffic if the heater was
left permanently going, which is not much fun in an Australian summer. On
the assumption that the timing and mixture is correct it sounds as if the
water is not circulating or the air is not going through the radiator. So
after checking the fan, check the thermostat followed by the radiator for
sludge and that the block is not also blocked by sludge.
A compression of 210lb sounds high but as I am at work I can't check my
books. Anyway that shouldn't provide the symptoms you have described.
There are special radiators and fans available for worked Mini Coopers.
Good luck and keep in touch.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
ps. Certainly Japan is a marvel of the modern world, but it's happen at some
expense. They have constructed very little infrastructure to care for their
aging population so that by 2020 there will be for every one person working
a total of 1.7 retirees to support. A very worrying figure.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com [mailto:Jwhlyadv@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 12:00 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Hot Mini
Looking for the collective wisdom of the List. We are helping a 17 year old
with his 67 Mini Cooper S. The problem is the car will overheat after only
driving two miles, (note the relatively short distance). The electric
Temperature gauge will steadily rise to the hot zone, not immediately peg
indicating a short.
New T-stat installed by owner and the water in the radiator gets hot so I
assume it's opening.
Last night I checked dwell and timing, both correct. Compression test showed
210 lb. in all four cylinders with only a 5 LB variance so I doubt a head
gasket failure. No sign of water in oil. No signs of bubbles in radiator
with
car running.
Water pump shows no bearing movement. They inform me they disconnected the
upper radiator hose with car running and had flow from the hose tonight. How
much flow there should be is unknown but they had some flow. Radiator
appears
clean and no rust evident in the system.
Any ideas out there where to go next? I suspect Water Pump but before
changing it any other suggestions? The Mini engine is so similar to the
Sprite I thought maybe some of the list members might have ideas I can pass
along.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 23:09:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Tahoe 2002
Just a note on Tahoe. The Bluegrass Club recently hosted our annual event
"Springthing". Our financial plan is to run the event (registration, etc.) as
a break even event. We then hold an Auction, raffle, etc., to raise funds to
support the club and promote the Marque.
Through the efforts of John Hunt and John May we were able to arrange for a
visit by Gerry and Marion Coker, two of the nicest people I've ever had the
pleasure to meet.
Through the efforts of the members of the club, the registrants and the
Cokers we raised $512 that was donated to the Visitors Fund for Tahoe. In
addition the Bluegrass Club donated $500 from our general treasury to this
fund for a total of $1012 raised. Marion Coker even won the 50/50 cash
jackpot and was kind enough to donate her winnings back.
The Visitors Fund will help offset the costs of bringing in the special
guests for Open Roads 2002. I would like to issue a challenge to the other
clubs to participate in a fundraiser for this special project. Contact Hunt
or May for details on what to do.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 00:06:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Tahoe 2002
Open Roads Healey International is June 23-28 2002 at the Horizon Hotel
Casino in South Shore Lake Tahoe Nevada. The registration info will be made
available after July 1 2001. There has been lots of enthusiasam for this meet
and the committee is expecting the reservations to come in fast. So I would
recomend that you get your registration in so you can get your confirmation
number in order to get your hotel reservations.
We have had people interested in coming from all over the US, Europe,
Japan and Austrailia.
More info and registration forms will be available on our web site at <A
HREF="http://www.healey2002.com";>healey2002.com</A> after July 1 2001.
David Nock
co/chaiman Healey International 2002
June 23/28 2002
Horizon Casino Resort
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 22:18:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Running Lights
Gary: Your Jaguar is in violation of CA Vehicle Code, section 24403 on
foglamps: "...may be used with, but shall not be used in substitution of,
headlamps...".
It appears that Rick and I are on the same wavelength so I shall cease and
desist on running lights, fog lights, any kind of lights, for now - unless -
I find out what 'passing lights' are.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: Running Lights
>
> John's comments show how easy it is to get lost in our own semantics.
There
> are two kinds of auxiliary lights that are/were mounted on British cars --
> long-distance driving lights that were useful when one was going over
100mph
> on an unfamiliar road, and fog lights which were useful to get low light
> under the fog layer and unto the pavement when regular lights just reflect
> off the fog.
>
> The two types of lights would be switched to do very different things. The
> high-speed driving lights (like the Lucas "Flame-throwers") should only
turn
> on to supplement the high beams, and then should switch off when the high
> beams are dipped for oncoming traffic. The fog lights should only switch
on
> when the low beams are being used, since by their nature they wouldn't be
> very useful in a situation when high beams are being used. In fact, on my
64
> Jaguar Mark II, with integral Lucas fog lights, when the fog lights are
> switched on, the headlights switch off entirely!
>
> So, if you're mounting long-distance driving lights, I would think you
would
> wire them through the high-beam wire, and if you're mounting fog lights,
you
> would wire them through the low-beam wire or even wire them completely
> separately, so they could be turned on without turning on the headlights
at
> all.
>
> That seems to make more sense to me.
> Cheers
> gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 01:37:10 EDT
Subject: Web site Update
OK, finally did it.
Major overhaul of "Wilko's Healey Progress" page.
All comments are welcome (that's how I got where I am) Many people wrote that
they wanted to see close-up specific mods....well they are the heart of this
site.
http://members.aol.com/wilko
Larry Varley has the fullest, Roger Los, the cleanest...mine is, well, "other"
All new navigation. New pics. Rally overriders, Driving and Fog light combo,
Derrington wheel, non adjustable Trafficator, Minilite Wheels, etc.
Thanks for looking,
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 03:44:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Running Lights
I'm only going to drive in sun light from now on!
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
Subject: Re: Running Lights
>
> Gary: Your Jaguar is in violation of CA Vehicle Code, section 24403
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 08:01:35 EDT
Subject: North Texas AHC
Want to see what we do when we have a long weekend here in North Texas. We
drive to New Mexico and meet some Healey folks from the NM AHC. Just for the
fun of driving.
Picture and story at our web site <http://www.ntahc.org> under Past Events.
Note the new address <http://www.ntahc.org>
Drive your Healey, you will like it and they will too.
Regards,
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 08:17:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Web site Update
In a message dated 5/30/01 12:39:06 AM Central Daylight Time, WilKo@aol.com
writes:
<< OK, finally did it.
Major overhaul of "Wilko's Healey Progress" page.
>>
Nice job on the overhaul of your page. Only thing that looks better is your
car. Great job, have you done all the work yourself?
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <jhansen at state.de.us> (Jeff Hansen)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 9:27:27 EDT
Subject: sexy healeys
Just a humorous note - While searching for healey images today I found that
our corporate filter has decided that Healeys are "sex related" and blocked
access!!!! I always thought of them as "sexy" but not to that extent!
Jeff
"no healey yet, but looking"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 11:40:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Running Lights
In a message dated 5/29/01 7:05:11 PM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
<<
Driving with only fog lights (or other auxilary lights) is a no-no according
to the CA code that I read today, and cited in earlier post.
Rick
San Diego >>
Gee, now when I get pulled over for having no front license tag on my Mark 2
(Jaguar) he's going to ticket me for having only my fog lights on.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 12:28:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Running Lights (law)
In a message dated 5/30/01 8:42:28, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< Gee, now when I get pulled over for having no front license tag on my Mark
2
(Jaguar) he's going to ticket me for having only my fog lights on.
Cheers
Gary >>
Yeah, and me when he stops me for have a fog and a flamethrower on with my
low beams, with no front bumper, or front plate.
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 13:16:33 EDT
Subject: Brushing vs Spraying
Hi everyone,
I've been working on my project car trying to get it on the road by next
summer, and have a few questions regarding painting. I am now working in a
different environment than I have in the past, and I now have the need to be
more careful about airborne particles.
I've stripped all of the sheet metal bare, and have treated the steel sheet
metal parts with Oxysolve to disolve oxidation. This past weekend I completed
the backsides of the wings "brushing" POR-15, then adding a color coat once the
POR-15 surface became tacky. I have to say I was very pleased to find the
brushed on finish had turned out very nice with no brush marks.
I now have the bare metal exterior surface to complete which takes more care.
Since I am concerned about airborne particles, I'd like to brush on the epoxy
primer that I am using, then when that surface is ready, I'd like to brush on
the sandable primer I am planning to use prior to all of the finish sanding.
Once all the finish sanding is complete, I will spray the color coat just like
I have in the past.
Has anyone on this list tried this procedure before? i.e. brushing primer?
Thanks,
Scott Helms
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 11:29:22 -0600
Subject: Offside brake and clutch cover
Hi all,
Can someone give me the proper dimensions of the plate that covers the
redundant brake and master cylinder holes? I know, big enough to cover the
holes:-)
Is there two plates, one in the engine side and one in the footwell? I would
like to blame the paint shop for losing this piece but it probably left when
I purged the garage of Landrover bits.
Thanks
Ross Maylor
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 11:45:01 -0600
Subject: RE: Brushing vs Spraying
Hi Scott,
A couple of thoughts on the subject:
POR-15 is extremely sensitive to surface conditions. Oxysolve is not the
same as POR's Metal-Ready and leaves a surface film that is different in
nature that may interfere with the bond between POR-15 and the metal.
While both contain phosphoric acid I remember speaking with the POR helpline
and they cautioned against using Oxysolve. As I had already purchased
Metal-Ready and they were aware of it, I don't think they were just trying
to push their product. Then again, it may work just fine. I hope you
used a fresh air respirator when brushing on the POR-15.....
Epoxy primer can be brushed on but will inevitably result in a film that is
not uniform in thickness (most epoxy primers shouldn't be sanded). This
can cause two problems: a proper paint system has constraints on total film
build to provide effective protection over time and temperature cycles.
Secondly, when you apply and then block sand the surfacer, you will very
likely break through the surfacer to the epoxy primer in many spots.
Worse, you may wind up with too-thin film build of the surfacer in spots and
not know it. Depending on your paint chemistry, these thin spots will
cause lifting when the top coat is applied. Cosmetically, if the epoxy is
breaking through, you will have to spray on a sealer which will defeat the
purpose of brushing.
Epoxy primer does not contain isocyanates so is not nearly as dangerous to
spray. With a proper booth design, even a makeshift one, you can trap most
of the particulates which are almost inert by the time they hit the walls.
You can also buy surfacers that are iso-free, such as PPG NCP270, so the
same applies. With a good HVLP gun, especially a turbine for anything
other than the topcoat, you will have minimal overspray.
The topcoat will have isocyanates and will have to be sprayed so if you are
building a booth for that, you may as well spray all the primers too. Just
my $.02 for what it's worth.
Regards,
Adnan
----Original Message-----
From: Trmgafun@aol.com [mailto:Trmgafun@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 10:17 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: british-cars@autox.team.net
Subject: Brushing vs Spraying
>>Has anyone on this list tried this procedure before? i.e. brushing
primer?
Thanks,
Scott Helms<<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 10:52:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Brushing vs Spraying
I don't know which epoxy primer you plan to use. I use PPG's DP##
version and use a HVLP gun to spray it. I have brushed the epoxy on
spots on the chassis for touchup, but would not consider brushing it
on a surface that I was going to show to the world on the outside of
the car. Epoxy applies with much of the feel of lacquer, and sets up
about as fast, too. If you are a good enough painter to brush lacquer
on a fender, be my guest. I'm not that good. Sure you can spend
hours wet sanding fast fill primer to get the surface looking nice,
and you might even get it perfect, but - for me - I would look for an
alternative, particularly if I had to brush on the sanding primer,
too.
How about renting a spray booth? People have made water traps for the
particles when they have painted in their home garages. The particles
from your top coat are likely to be several times more lethal than
epoxy primer is, if you're using any modern paint. A HVLP gun will
get a lot more paint on your car and less into the atmosphere than
would a nice old Binks high pressure gun, so maybe you could try the
HVLP setup for undercoats as well as the top coat?
There are vapors as well as particles to consider. I hope you are
using a good respirator with new cartridges with your primers and POR.
-Roland
On Wed, 30 May 2001 13:16:33 EDT, Trmgafun@aol.com wrote:
::
:: Hi everyone,
::
:: I've been working on my project car trying to get it on the road by next
:summer, and have a few questions regarding painting. I am now working in a
:different environment than I have in the past, and I now have the need to be
:more careful about airborne particles.
:
:: I now have the bare metal exterior surface to complete which takes more
:care. Since I am concerned about airborne particles, I'd like to brush on the
:epoxy primer that I am using, then when that surface is ready, I'd like to
:brush on the sandable primer I am planning to use prior to all of the finish
:sanding. Once all the finish sanding is complete, I will spray the color coat
:just like I have in the past.
::
:: Has anyone on this list tried this procedure before? i.e. brushing primer?
::
:: Thanks,
::
:: Scott Helms
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 11:06:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Offside brake and clutch cover
One piece of metal, 4" by 5" with four holes in it through which four
phillips (Pozi?) head sheet metal fasteners pass. There is a (felt?)
gasket behind the metal for better seal. Inside, there are four metal
clips to hold the sheet metal screw threads. The clips fit over the
edges of the duplicate cylinder holes. The gasket appears to have a
couple of holes in it through which you can see the painted surface of
the plate.
-Roland
(a BJ7 was the informant vehicle)
On Wed, 30 May 2001 11:29:22 -0600, "Ross Maylor"
<obiedog@telusplanet.net> wrote:
::
:: Hi all,
:: Can someone give me the proper dimensions of the plate that covers the
:: redundant brake and master cylinder holes? I know, big enough to cover the
:: holes:-)
:: Is there two plates, one in the engine side and one in the footwell? I would
:: like to blame the paint shop for losing this piece but it probably left when
:: I purged the garage of Landrover bits.
:: Thanks
:: Ross Maylor
:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 13:12:04 -0700
Subject: Re: The term "JAP" - POLITICALLY CORRECT?? (No Healey content)
At 7:15 PM -0700 5/29/01, Rick Snover wrote:
>At 06:46 PM 5/29/2001, International Investor wrote:
>t! Something to do with Healeys! I can't believe I read the whole thing.
>
><quibble>
>Actually, "JAP", in all uppercase, as an acronym, has a whole other un-PC
>meaning most familiar in the Northeastern US. But that's irrelevent, too.
></quibble>
>
Ha ... and in LA ... I went out with one when I arrived from Oz ... warning!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 16:35:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Lillibridge 100S
I've lost the adress for the Lillibridge 100s website...
It's not yet at Listquest.
Could some please send it to me?
Thanks in Advance,
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 16:53:32 -0400
Subject: Paging Mal Bruce
STBTL:
Does anyone know how to get hold of Mal Bruce of Ontario via e-mail?
Please reply privately.
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 17:08:29 -0400
Subject: Re: The term "JAP" - POLITICALLY CORRECT?? (No Healey content)
Now we are getting offensive.
Rohan Marr wrote:
> At 7:15 PM -0700 5/29/01, Rick Snover wrote:
> >At 06:46 PM 5/29/2001, International Investor wrote:
> >t! Something to do with Healeys! I can't believe I read the whole thing.
> >
> ><quibble>
> >Actually, "JAP", in all uppercase, as an acronym, has a whole other un-PC
> >meaning most familiar in the Northeastern US. But that's irrelevent, too.
> ></quibble>
> >
>
> Ha ... and in LA ... I went out with one when I arrived from Oz ... warning!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 17:32:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Lillibridge 100S
http://www.bklillibridge.com/
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> I've lost the adress for the Lillibridge 100s website...
> It's not yet at Listquest.
>
> Could some please send it to me?
>
> Thanks in Advance,
> Rick
> San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 16:59:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Brushing vs Spraying
hey scott-
if you decide to use a roller rather than a brush, don't use the long knap !!
Trmgafun@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I've been working on my project car trying to get it on the road by next
>summer,
> and have a few questions regarding painting. I am now working in a different
> environment than I have in the past, and I now have the need to be more
>careful
> about airborne particles.
>
> I've stripped all of the sheet metal bare, and have treated the steel sheet
>metal
> parts with Oxysolve to disolve oxidation. This past weekend I completed the
> backsides of the wings "brushing" POR-15, then adding a color coat once the
> POR-15 surface became tacky. I have to say I was very pleased to find the
> brushed on finish had turned out very nice with no brush marks.
>
> I now have the bare metal exterior surface to complete which takes more care.
> Since I am concerned about airborne particles, I'd like to brush on the epoxy
> primer that I am using, then when that surface is ready, I'd like to brush on
>the
> sandable primer I am planning to use prior to all of the finish sanding. Once
> all the finish sanding is complete, I will spray the color coat just like I
>have
> in the past.
>
> Has anyone on this list tried this procedure before? i.e. brushing primer?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott Helms
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 18:35:01 EDT
Subject: 3.50 Differential Project
I know there were several folks on the list who signed up with Mike Lempert
of New Jersey for the 3.50 gearsets. I have sent Mike a few emails and have
not heard anything. Has anyone heard from him or have any information about
progress?
Mike--are you out there?
Michael Oritt--BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 16:17:53 -0700
Subject: Re: 3.50 Differential Project
At 06:35 PM 5/30/2001, Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>I know there were several folks on the list who signed up with Mike Lempert
>of New Jersey for the 3.50 gearsets. I have sent Mike a few emails and have
>not heard anything. Has anyone heard from him or have any information about
>progress?
Nothing heard here since April 10.
>Mike--are you out there?
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 19:44:45 EDT
Subject: Re: 3.50 Differential Project
In a message dated 5/30/01 7:26:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bobjudd@earthlink.net writes:
<< Sprint Car mode >>
LOL--I just want to get it in before Conclave. It's a long way to Minnesota
at 300 RPM's.
Best to all, esp. Mike Lempert!
Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 20:01:07 EDT
Subject: Re: 3.50 Differential Project
In a message dated 5/30/01 7:58:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Jhaysp u writes:
<< << It's a long way to Minnesota
at 300 RPM's. >>
Uh....make that 3000 RPM's?
Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 20:32:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Brushing vs Spraying
Hi all,
Thanks for all the wonderful input regarding Brushing vs Spraying! I've
decided to go ahead and use the thick nap roller and go with the textured
look!!
Look for the "textured" Colorado Red Healey at the shows next year.
Thanks again,
Scott Helms
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 11:17:32 +1000
Subject: The Real Meaning Behind JAP.
Greetings
Now of course you all being British car enthusiasts would know that JAP
really stands for the British engine manufacturer John.A.Prestwich & Co.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 21:59:48 -0400
Subject: Spark Plugs for Hundreds
Hello all,
I need to install a new set of spark plugs in a 1956 BN2. The engine is all
rebuilt with stock compression pistons, a Lemans grind camshaft and
distributor advance weights. The car is to be run for pleasure, no racing.
I want to stay with Champion plugs.
The current Champion plug listings recommends the N12YC plug for "all but
100S".
Does this sound right?
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 20:28:47 -0700
Subject: Got a roof and now I don't fit!
Boy I've been on this list a bunch lately.
I'm 6 foot standing and 6' 2" sitting down, know what I mean?
So I got a brand new top and my head tries to poke through.
I think I saw a web page someplace that shows how to core out some holes in the
sold seat foam to lower my a**. Do you remember? OR have any other solutions?
Help,
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Web-Master Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 21:17:59 -0700
Subject: Re: 3.50 Differential Project enquiries
I heard from Mike Lempert on 4/19 when I signed up. He expects to ship in
September or October. As of then he had 172 orders.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 06:45:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Got a roof and now I don't fit!
Brian,
Don't know about a web page, but the 9 & 10 2000 AHCUSA Austin Healey
Magazine has an article by David and Norman Nock on making
seats softer by drilling the foam with a hole saw. I found that to get the
height right I also had to shave an inch or so off the bottom of the foam.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Mix" <brianmix@home.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 11:28 PM
Subject: Got a roof and now I don't fit!
>
> Boy I've been on this list a bunch lately.
>
> I'm 6 foot standing and 6' 2" sitting down, know what I mean?
>
> So I got a brand new top and my head tries to poke through.
>
> I think I saw a web page someplace that shows how to core out some holes
in the sold seat foam to lower my a**. Do you remember? OR have any other
solutions?
>
> Help,
>
> Brian Mix
> '55 AH-100 LeMans
> http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
>
> Web-Master Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "E & J Smith" <bluechip at comcastnet.com>
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 08:04:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Got a roof and now I don't fit!
Brian: I modified my seat similar to what Doug did but I also removed the
seat rails and wood shims. Downside? I'm the only one who can drive the
car..(could be an upside). I'm 6' 4".
Jim, BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 08:13:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Got a roof and now I don't fit!
In a message dated 5/31/01 8:08:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bluechip@comcastnet.com writes:
<< I modified my seat similar to what Doug did but I also removed the
seat rails and wood shims. >>
I have a 100 and the passenger seat is non-adjustable, although there seems
to be room to permanently move it a few inches further aft and allow for
more legroom. Has anyone remounted the passenger-side seat back some? Any
problems aside from perhaps drilling a few extra holes?
Michael Oritt--BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Leeks" <paul_leeks at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 12:45:34 -0000
Subject: Follow-up to It's all in the timing..
I had the timing checked over winter and it was spot on.
However, I am now noticing a slight misfire (pinking?) at high revs when the
weather is hot (still fine on the normal cold Lancashire days).
I seem to recall something along the lines that the timing should be
slightly retarded in the summer months?
Is this correct or was it one of my strange Healey-related dreams!
Cheers
Paul
_________________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 07:57:58 -0500
Subject: RE: Brushing vs Spraying
I can get you a deal on some wall-paper.... ;-)
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Trmgafun@aol.com [mailto:Trmgafun@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 8:33 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Brushing vs Spraying
Hi all,
Thanks for all the wonderful input regarding Brushing vs Spraying! I've
decided to go ahead and use the thick nap roller and go with the textured
look!!
Look for the "textured" Colorado Red Healey at the shows next year.
Thanks again,
Scott Helms
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DRKTYME at aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 09:48:31 EDT
Subject: Rear crankshaft oil seal upgrade.
Any experience with the Moss motors rear seal conversion on a BJ8? Is this a
major undertaking for a basic weekend garage mechanic or should I shy away?
Also, any leads on a good Mechanic and body shop in the Costa Mesa,
California (southern) area?
My car is rock solid except for it's lack of oil retention.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 10:19:55 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.50 Differential Project
I'm here ! Just returned from another trip to the Carolinas. I'm starting
to go through my email and this was near the top. I see I have several to
reply to. I will get a status out to the gear group. Finally good news to
share.
Regards,
Mike Lempert
>I know there were several folks on the list who signed up with Mike Lempert
>of New Jersey for the 3.50 gearsets. I have sent Mike a few emails and
have
>not heard anything. Has anyone heard from him or have any information
about
>progress?
>
>Mike--are you out there?
>
>Michael Oritt--BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 08:18:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear crankshaft oil seal upgrade.
For a mechanic in Costa Mesa, I would recommend Chris at:
Chris' British Car Service
2120-A Harbor Blvd
(behind Hub Auto Supply)
949 642-4122
If your looking for an old world craftsman to replace rusted metal or
straighten body panels without using bondo or lead may I suggest:
Antonio Brudaglio
Euro Tech Metal Craft, Inc.
23291 Peralta, Unit 4
Laguna Hills, CA 92653
tel 949 472-8710
fax 949 425-9113
One man shop, Italian craftsman, only 4 years in the country so his
english is 'notta very good' but I saw examples of panels created from
scratch, perfect welding, seamless rust repair, perfectly hung doors,
etc. He doesn't do any painting, just preps everything for painting. I
haven't used his services yet but plan to when the time comes.
Regards,
John Loftus
Laguna Beach, CA
DRKTYME@aol.com wrote:
> Any experience with the Moss motors rear seal conversion on a BJ8? Is this a
> major undertaking for a basic weekend garage mechanic or should I shy away?
> Also, any leads on a good Mechanic and body shop in the Costa Mesa,
> California (southern) area?
> My car is rock solid except for it's lack of oil retention.
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 10:36:30 +0000
Subject: Oil Leak -- The English Disease
TIA
Ron
BN1
From "E & J Smith" <bluechip at comcastnet.com>
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 12:40:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Got a roof and now I don't fit!
Michael: One thing to look out for on the 100 is interference with the
hood (convertible top) in the stowed position.
Good Luck
Jim
BN1, BN2, BN6, BN7
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 13:34:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Leak -- The English Disease
Just for fun --
As originally engineered, the Healey engines had the drive shaft exiting the
rear of the block through an opening that was machined as a "Reverse
Archimede's Screw." (File that away for the next Noggin and Natter.) The
shaft had a clearance of something like a few thou, but the opening had a
reverse thread in it. Oil would seep around the shaft between the shaft and
the opening, thus providing some lubrication, but excess oil would catch in
the thread and be thrown back into the sump.
>From bitter personal experience, I learned that if the rear main bearing
starts to go, the driveshaft can start to spin eccentrically and rub open up
the clearance to the point where the threading no longer is sufficient to
throw the oil back.
There are several different oil seals being used, as I understand, so I'll
defer to the experts as to preferences. All I know is that you do have to do
some work on the engine to fit them, which can be done with the engine in the
car on the six-cylinder cars, but requires that the engine be pulled on the
four-cylinder cars. Virtually every engine rebuilder fits one of these seals
when he rebuilds a Healey engine, so the consensus is that they are a good
modern retrofit.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 14:05:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Leak -- The English Disease
In a message dated 5/31/01 10:50:28 AM, Healybj8 writes:
<<
I'd say live with the leak until you are going to pull the engine, then
install the new seal. >>
NO, NO, NO, NO, NO.
If it is in fact the rear bearing wear that's causing wear on the "archimedes
seal," then it can only get worse. And -- my "bitter experience" you may
find yourself, on a Saturday afternoon, ten miles east of Gunnison, Colorado,
with your oil on the road, your car dead, every car repair shop closed, and
the event you were planning to make by six pm (in this case, Breckinridge)
still 100 miles and two mountain passes away.
(The rest of the story -- two good ol' boys at one of the garages took pity
on us, borrowed their father's car trailer, hooked it up to their old Scout,
and towed us to Breckinridge for $100, enough for them to have a nice night
on the town. We found an interstate car shipper that was coming through a
week later to pick up our car and take it to California for another $1100).
My suggestion would be to get the oil problem fixed before venturing more
than a cell-phone call and tow truck pull away from your own garage. Healeys
will run without a lot of things, but oil is not one of them, and if you
force your car to try, it may get revenge by dumping its oil at the worst
possible time and place.
Cheers
Gayr
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 13:15:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Hot Mini
. . . be sure to check that the entire front grill is not blocked by
driving lights and club badge medallions.
Pete Cowper (once rode from Humboldt State down to Visalia and back in a
1275 S in the late 1960's)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 17:40:12 EDT
Subject: POR-15
Hi,
Among the responses to my "Brushing vs Spraying" question, I received some
interesting responses about using POR-15 on the backside of the rust-free steel
sheet metal wings on my Healey. In the past, I've heard or read only positive
testimonials about this product, but now I'm hearing some things to the
contrary. One person indicated that the product seals in any oxidation, and
that it (rust) will continue to progress underneath the coating, contrary to
what the manufacturer claims. Another person indicated that they were told the
product might not adhere to the zinc phosphate coating left behind by
phosphoric acid such as used by Redi-Strip, or Oxysolve like products. I've
always been told the zinc phosphate coating was a very desireable surface for a
coating like paint or primer. Judging by my past experiences with POR-15, I
can't imagine it NOT adhering to this type of surface. It sure sticks to
everything else it comes in contact with.
Anyone like to shed some light on this?
Thanks,
Scott Helms
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 18:39:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Leak -- The English Disease
Gary et al:
Somehow I had the impression that all of the aftermarket oil seals were the
same. I based this assumption on the fact that several of the suppliers
offer a seal of the same general description for about the same price and
all of them note that you have to do some minor modifications to fit the
seal.
Since I plan to fit one as part of my engine rebuild, I am now worried that
what I thought was a simple choice is, in fact, not. If they are not all
the same, then how are they different and which one is best?
John Cope
62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 1:34 PM
Subject: Re: Oil Leak -- The English Disease
>
> Just for fun --
>
> As originally engineered, the Healey engines had the drive shaft exiting
the
> rear of the block through an opening that was machined as a "Reverse
> Archimede's Screw." (File that away for the next Noggin and Natter.) The
> shaft had a clearance of something like a few thou, but the opening had a
> reverse thread in it. Oil would seep around the shaft between the shaft
and
> the opening, thus providing some lubrication, but excess oil would catch
in
> the thread and be thrown back into the sump.
>
> >From bitter personal experience, I learned that if the rear main bearing
> starts to go, the driveshaft can start to spin eccentrically and rub open
up
> the clearance to the point where the threading no longer is sufficient to
> throw the oil back.
>
> There are several different oil seals being used, as I understand, so I'll
> defer to the experts as to preferences. All I know is that you do have to
do
> some work on the engine to fit them, which can be done with the engine in
the
> car on the six-cylinder cars, but requires that the engine be pulled on
the
> four-cylinder cars. Virtually every engine rebuilder fits one of these
seals
> when he rebuilds a Healey engine, so the consensus is that they are a good
> modern retrofit.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 18:42:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Leak -- The English Disease
If he's a real friend, and/or a connoisseur of fine British machinery, he won't
mind, in fact he will EXPECT oil stains on his driveway as a fond memory of how
you graced his abode with your Healey.
DickB
rons wrote:
> I have the dreaded oil drip -- almost a minor flow -- from under the engine.
> It doesn't appear to bee coming from the pan. Thus, it must be the 'rear oil
> seal.' Only I don't know what a rear oil seal looks like or how to correct
> it the right way. I don't want to leave oil stains on friends' driveways. Do
> I have to pull the engine? What kind of seal is best? (Moss offers some kind
> of lip sealed seal as offered in an inset in their most recent catalog,
> would that work and/or is it correct?
>
> TIA
> Ron
> BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bill at whwoodruff.com
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 16:42:27 -0700
Subject: RE: POR-15
Scott and fellow Listers,
I have had some experience with POR-15. I can't directly answer
your question, but I can relate some experiences. When doing much more
rust repair back in Michigan, I had settled on the Oxi-Solve, POR-15
combo. When using the POR-15 I dusted in another primer as the
manufacturer suggests for topcoat adhesion. I did the frame and all
suspension components of my 'convertible GT6' with it they look
beautiful to this day (6 years?).
I did a set of steel rims by sandblasting and then covering with
POR-15 (no zinc-phosphate treatment). They rerusted almost
immediately. I'm not quite sure why they rusted, but I suspect two
factors. First, I didn't spend a lot of time cleaning the rims after
sandblasting. Second, there is a difference between rust and rust ...
What we normally think of as rust is the brownish-red flaky stuff
that is unfortunately common on our cars. But that is really the last
stage, seriously oxidized metal which does not adhere to remaining
steel very well at all. If you sandblast your way through that, you'll
come to a layer of almost black material which is the beginning stages
of the oxidation process. The black stuff does adhere to the surface.
I believe that most of the paint over rust treatments are only
successful on this early stage material, not on the late stage. My
guess is that the treatment adheres tenaciously to the oxidation but
the oxidation may or may not adhere to the remaining metal, hence you
may or may not get a good result.
Most recently - on my Healey parts - I have sandblasted to
relatively clean metal, prepped with zinc phosphate, then
powder-coated. On body panels I followed the same recipe except I
plastic media blasted and used an epoxy primer. The results look
great, but they haven't been on the road (yet).
I would use a zinc phosphate treatment on all steel parts,
including those covered with POR-15. If your panels are relatively
clean, I think the POR-15 will be successful. As far as sealing in
rust and allowing it to continue, I have my doubts about that. If
oxygen is cut off from the surface, the oxidation process will stop.
Really, no steel is perfectly rust free, even on brand new cars.
Paints seal the surface and will stop rust until that seal is
compromised. Its more a question of how well you can get the material
to adhere to the surface.
Bill W.
BTW, doesn't the POR company sell metal-ready, which is a
zinc-phosphate treatment?
> received some interesting responses about using POR-15 on the
> backside of the rust-free steel sheet metal wings on my
> Healey. In the past, I've heard or read only positive
> testimonials about this product, but now I'm hearing some
> things to the contrary. One person indicated that the
> product seals in any oxidation, and that it (rust) will
> continue to progress underneath the coating, contrary to what
> the manufacturer claims. Another person indicated that they
> were told the product might not adhere to the zinc phosphate
> coating left behind by phosphoric acid such as used by
> Redi-Strip, or Oxysolve like products. I've always been told
> the zinc phosphate coating was a very desireable surface for
> a coating like paint or primer. Judging by my past
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 19:54:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Leak -- The English Disease
This depends on if you are installing it onto a 4 or 6 cylinder Healey
engine.
The 6 cylinder engine you can install the seal with out any major engine
work, you will need to remove the transmission and flywheel to install the
seal.
The 4 cylinder engine will need to be stripped down to machine the rear
crank seal area to 2.5 inches, also the original seal will have to be
machined off the rear main cap.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 21:33:34 -0400
Subject: Inspect car for me
I'm looking for someone living in or near the Rockford, Illinois area (aprox.
70 miles west of Chicago), with knowledge of phase two BJ8's, who could look
at a 1967 MkIII for me. I have found a car for sale, in need of restoration,
which I would like inspected prior to purchase...and of course, be compensated
for their time.
Gary Cox, Bradenton, FL
Future BJ8 Owner
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 22:35:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Leak -- The English Disease
The primary reason that so many Healeys are still on the road is that
most of the frame is perpetually bathed in oil. We might be better off if the
front seal leaked too.
Bill Huck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 22:26:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Leak -- The English Disease
If he's Not - then you say F--- Y-- and drive off @5,000 rpms
Arjay wrote:
> Real good, Dick. And if he's not??????
>
> Dick Brill wrote:
>
> > If he's a real friend, and/or a connoisseur of fine British machinery, he
>won't
> > mind, in fact he will EXPECT oil stains on his driveway as a fond memory of
>how
> > you graced his abode with your Healey.
> >
> > DickB
> >
> > rons wrote:
> >
> > > I have the dreaded oil drip -- almost a minor flow -- from under the
>engine.
> > > It doesn't appear to bee coming from the pan. Thus, it must be the 'rear
>oil
> > > seal.' Only I don't know what a rear oil seal looks like or how to correct
> > > it the right way. I don't want to leave oil stains on friends' driveways.
>Do
> > > I have to pull the engine? What kind of seal is best? (Moss offers some
>kind
> > > of lip sealed seal as offered in an inset in their most recent catalog,
> > > would that work and/or is it correct?
> > >
> > > TIA
> > > Ron
> > > BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From gonzo18 at mindspring.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 23:36:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 100-4 passenger seat
Michael Oritt
Jim Smith is right . You need the clearance to stow the top. Get a
set of extra seat rails and make the passenger side adjustable too. It's a
handy modification and easy . Might even be concours approved as you would
only use genuine Healey parts.
Ray Juncal BN-1 BN-2
1517 N. Benton Way
L.A. ,CA. 90026
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rob Verhoef" <robv at valkieser.nl>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 07:49:54 +0200
Subject: Steering Cowl
Hai There,
Can anyone help me get an American type steering cowl (the one with three
hole's, one for the ignition switch, one for the indicator and one for
windscreenwipers) for a Sprite 1970, new or used.
I am living in the Netherlands.
Many thanks, Rob HAN10
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
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