To all you idiots who order the wrong part then cry foul and whimper
about being a victim of a crook . . .
Heads up! I got a taco for lunch at a local major fast food store today
and it was wrapped upside down. I was extremely disappointed as the
cheese fell out when I unwrapped it and I had to scoop it back in. I
expect proper training in food preparation and this is entirely
unsatisfactory. One mistake is intolerable. We must all cease doing
business with this particular Taco Vendor!
I shall sit by my computer all Labor Day weekend, cease all other
activities in my life, to respond off line to all of you who I am sure
can't wait to find out which Taco Vendor it is so that you too can then
rant and rave on the internet list.
Jeez, get a life. It's just a few light bulbs.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7 with $1.99 Pep Boys headlights.)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 06:30:10 -0500
Subject: Re: a very expensive Bugeye??
hi greg-
"ex" would appear to be the operative phrase !!
Greg Bankin wrote:
>
>
> > should have looked at it but my wife was mad at me at the time and was in
> her
> > "NO MORE CARS" mode which comes and goes...timing is oh so critical.
> >
>
> With my (now ex) wife it NEVER came. What's the trick ?
>
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 06:37:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Ill-Fitting Halogen Light Bulbs
tacos, tires and torts, a lethal combination !!
Pete Cowper wrote:
>
>
> To all you idiots who order the wrong part then cry foul and whimper
> about being a victim of a crook . . .
>
> Heads up! I got a taco for lunch at a local major fast food store today
> and it was wrapped upside down. I was extremely disappointed as the
> cheese fell out when I unwrapped it and I had to scoop it back in. I
> expect proper training in food preparation and this is entirely
> unsatisfactory. One mistake is intolerable. We must all cease doing
> business with this particular Taco Vendor!
>
> I shall sit by my computer all Labor Day weekend, cease all other
> activities in my life, to respond off line to all of you who I am sure
> can't wait to find out which Taco Vendor it is so that you too can then
> rant and rave on the internet list.
>
> Jeez, get a life. It's just a few light bulbs.
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7 with $1.99 Pep Boys headlights.)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 14:34:35 +0100
Subject: New Austin Healey Web Forum
Dear Austin Healey enthusiasts,
The UK's Austin Healey Club has today launched its 'Web Forum' as an
adjunct to its web site.
Though we, as an enthusiasts' community, enjoy the many practical
benefits and camaraderie of autox (and I for one wouldn't be without
it!), there is a case for adding to our 'tool kit' a more UK-facing
service.
But this doesn't mean it's just for UK fans. If you have an enquiry,
from anywhere in the world, that can be most effectively answered by
someone on UK soil, the Web Forum may be more likely to raise a suitable
response. You might have questions about Warwick, Longbridge or
Abingdon, for example. Or some broad enquiries about, say, local
amenities in Berkshire during our week-long '50' event next year. Or
questions about sourcing parts from UK suppliers.
To find the service, go to our home page (as below) and click the 'Web
Forum' button.
Do take a look. Feedback welcome!
-
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2001 09:19:50 -0700
Subject: Re: air filters
Before the engine overhaul, I had K&N's on my '58 BN4 too. Then with all new
motor mounts, I was surprised to find they no longer cleared the shroud when I
tried to reinstall them. Something like 1/4 or 1/2" interference, I concluded
due to the engine sitting a little higher on the new mounts.
Maybe I should try them now, after everything has settled in a bit?
Fred Meyer
Longbridge BN4
HundredSix@aol.com wrote:
> Bud,
> I have K&N filters on my 1959 BN4 they work great and are of similar
> design to paper filters, you can easily tell when they are dirty. They are
> the pancake type 1.75" tall. I can email a picture if you like.
> Peter Samaroo
> Charlotte NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 12:36:03 EDT
Subject: 1961 AUSTIN HEALEY SPRIte-Another at Kruse
<A
HREF="http://cgi.liveauctions.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5949
24229">Click here: eBay Live Auctions item 594924229 (Ends ) - 1961 AUSTIN
HEALEY SPRITE ROADSTER</A>
OK, here is another, appears correct Sprite by Kruse estimated to go for
$7K-11K...what makes the other one worth a starting bid of $5k more????
Dave D.
'59 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 12:43:12 EDT
Subject: Check out eBay Live Auctions item 594665016 (Ends ) - 1954
<A
HREF="http://cgi.liveauctions.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5946
65016">Click here: eBay Live Auctions item 594665016 (Ends ) - 1954 AUSTIN
HEALEY 100/4 CONVERTIBLE NR</A>
This might be interesting to watch...no reserve, bidding starts at $1.00 US
Dave D.
'59 BT 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 12:42:27 -0700
Subject: Brake and rear axle question
We just noticed a big oil spill on the right rear tire. After pulling the
tire and hub, the screws (2) that hold the drum on the inner hub were
broken. The oil seal, gasket and screws will be replaced but does anyone
know why the screws would break?
Brake question- Due to the oil spill the brake pads are oily. The old rule
was replace them. Is there anything that will clean them well enough since
they are brand new?
Thanks for your help
Jerry
Bn4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 13:23:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: REMINDER: PALO ALTO MEET CANCELED!
TELL THE WHOLE TOWN!!! PLEASE!!!
THE 2001 PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET HAS BEEN CANCELED!!!
In case you missed it last time,
It is with an extremely heavy heart that we have to inform you that the
23rd Annual Palo Alto British Car Meet, scheduled for Sept. 9th, is being
canceled for this year. On August 20th, Caltrans, the California State
highway board, informed the City of Palo Alto department of Parks &
Recreation that they would be tearing up the El Camino Real and closing off
El Camino Park from the street starting Sept. 1st.and there seems no way
around the certain chaos and confusion. We have opted for cancellation.
We will be back next year. We are truly sorry and hope that you understand
our actions on this unfortunate turn of events. Please tell all of your
British car owning friends so we don't have a bunch of people show up to an
empty park. THANKS!
SATURDAY "TOUR TO THE SEA" IS STILL ON!!!!
While the Palo Alto British Car Meet show on Sunday has been cancelled, the
British Car Magazine folks (Gary & Genie Anderson) will continue to host
the "Tour to the Sea" drive on Saturday Sept 8, 2001. This will be an
informal drive from our office parking lot in Los Altos, over the coastal
mountains to Half Moon Bay via back roads. The drive should take under 2
hours and there are several interesting places to stop. The tour ends at
Cameron's Restaurant and Pub on Hwy 1 just south of Half Moon Bay. This
will be a relaxed
gathering with dining in the pub, not outside - Cameron's has a wide
selection of British beers and the usual burgers, sandwiches, salads, etc.
The parking lot is large, so it makes a great place to stop, look atthe
cars & visit with friends.
Tourers will get route instructions and a map at the start of the drive.
Arrive any time between 9AM and 10 AM - be prepared to leave for the drive
within 15 minutes of your arrival - we try to send a few cars out at a time
to avoid bunching.
DIRECTIONS TO START
Office parking lot: The Altos Center, 360 So San Antonio Road - between &
behind the CalFed Bank and the 76 Gas station at the corner of Whitney &
San Antonio. Our location is 1 block off of Foothill Expy (from 280 take
El Monte Rd exit, left @ Foothill, right onto San Antonio). From 101 take
the Los Altos exit (San Antonio Road) (head west, "away from bay") and go
about 3.7 miles. Heads up: When you see the "Banderas Restaurant" on the
right, get ready to turn right at Whitney - parking lot is just past the
mailbox on
left side.
PLEASE LET THE BRITISH CAR MAGAZINE STAFF KNOW IF YOU ARE PLANNING TO
ATTEND THE TOUR!
We can't reserve space at the restaurant, but Cameron still will need to
know approx. how many people will invade his pub!! To sign up:
Call: 650 949 9680 or
email: Adrienne@Britishcar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Raymond Feehan" <feehanr at home.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 14:26:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Brake and rear axle question
It depends on how long the brake fluid was on the shoes. If not too long
then it didn't have a chance to soak in too deeply. You could take sandpaper
and sand the top layer off. Of course it's always safer too junk them.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan. PS. Have no idea why the two screws broke.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0@attglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2001 1:42 PM
Subject: Brake and rear axle question
>
> We just noticed a big oil spill on the right rear tire. After pulling the
> tire and hub, the screws (2) that hold the drum on the inner hub were
> broken. The oil seal, gasket and screws will be replaced but does anyone
> know why the screws would break?
>
> Brake question- Due to the oil spill the brake pads are oily. The old
rule
> was replace them. Is there anything that will clean them well enough
since
> they are brand new?
>
> Thanks for your help
>
> Jerry
> Bn4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 17:10:09 -0400
Subject: Re: bj7/bj8 differences
There are lots of little differences between BJ7s and BJ8s, but they are not
as readily visible as the wood dash. If you could not see the interior of
the car or the engine bay, you would be hard pressed to identify a car as
either a BJ7 or BJ8. Externally, a BJ7 and a Phase 1 BJ8 can be identical.
This includes the body panels, bumpers, grille, windshield, and the
clearance between the top of the rear wheels and the fender wheelwell
cut-outs
Clausager (Original Austin-Healey) gives the following as "new" for the BJ8:
New camshaft and valve springs (BJ7 engines were 29F series, BJ8s were 29K
series); HD8 2-inch carburetors (BJ7s have HS6 1-3/4 inch carbs); new dual
exhaust system with extra silencers at the rear, right hand tail pipe (BJ7
tail pipes exited on the left, but I have seen quite a few BJ8s with
replacement tail pipes on the left, eliminating the transverse mufflers at
the rear); servo brakes standard, new wood facia (dash); center console
fitted; key-operated starter; new fuse box, control box, and dynamo
(generator); new mainshaft to gearbox; gear ratios revised; windscreen
washer bottle with larger neck fitted under bonnet; Ambla trim fitted as
standard, revised seat pattern; hinged rear seat squab (seat back) converts
to luggage platform; electronic rev counter (BJ7s had a mechanical
tachometer drive); 140-mph speedometer; new switch gear.
The attachment of the convertible top to the top frame is also slightly
different between BJ8s and BJ7s.
So, the detailed differences between BJ7s and Phase 1 BJ8s are mostly
incorporated in the interior furnishings and the engine bay.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
Cc: "Healey Chat Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2001 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: bj7/bj8 differences
> Thanks for the responses. One more question. Other than the wood dash is
there
> any distinguishable, visible difference between the bj7 and bj8? Thanks.
>
> Win Graham
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 16:29:34 -0600
Subject: Driving once again.. Ramblings
Greetings all.
Though I'd drop a post as I am driving my BJ8 once again. First for the
season and will enjoy it until until fall sets in (pretty quick probably see
snow in the mountains in a few weeks...)....
Accomplishments. Brake master and servo rebuilt, new stailess braided brake
hoses, everything cleaned and painted (front suspension and wheel wells)...
Powder coated many parts including the brake fluid resevoir, backing
plates, misc hardware .....Installed the brakes, bled them out methodically
and they are terrific!!! Flushed 1.5 quarts of fluid through the system as
I switched from Silicon to DOt 3/4 (Valvoline synthetic)... We'll see if
the wheel cylinders or calipers start to leak and need rebuilding.. (such is
life if they do) ....
Added a monza exhaust. Had to do some modifications to it to make it fit
but it was pretty much a snap... Sounds great..... I am pleased.....
Ceramic coated the head pipes to improve temperature.....
Installed a new front hub (where one was badly worn) and installed new wheel
bearings on both sides .. She was due....
All - in - all she is running great... (and fitting her name - Xena).
Thanks to all for the help this past year. I'll be pulling the rear this
winter and installing new seals, rebuilding the rear brakes (clean/paint/
etc)....... and clean and paint all itmes under in the rear area.... So I'm
sure there will be questions along those lines..
Cheers..
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 17:39:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 Fuel Pressure
Hi listers,
I am trying to troubleshoot what appears to be a fuel
starvation problem with my BJ8 and I hooked a pressure
gauge to the fuel line at the carburetor and got a
reading of 3 lbs. Does anyone know if this is what the
carbs need to function properly. I have looked in all
the manuals I have and I can't find any reference to
fuel pressure.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Jorge
bj8
ps Steve Byers if you are reading this I have not
forgetten the form for the registry and I promise I
will get it to you soon.
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Snow <MJHSnow at sprintmail.com>
Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2001 18:11:23 -0700
Subject: 3000 timing tensioner
I am missing the sleeve inside the tensioner. There
is a spring. How important is the sleeve with the
diagonal in it and if important where can I find this
sleeve?
Thanks, Michael Snow
San Diego
mjhsnow@sprintmail.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 22:32:29 EDT
Subject: Re: 3000 timing tensioner
Michael,
I don't know how important the sleeve is but I would be hesitant to put it
back together without it. Try Dave Nock at British Car Specialists, they may
have the sleeve by itself or know where you can get it. You might have to
buy a whole new tensioner.
www.BritshCarSpecialists.com
Dave D.
'59 BT 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2001 23:09:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Driving once again.. Ramblings
Hi Jim
Way to be! In fact I was just talking about you to Jim Voelzer,
Section Leader, Flyway Biologists, USFWS, tonight over some ice
cream at the Hot Rod Cafe here in Saskatoon.
Glad to here that you'll have oil dripping on the driveway after
a spin in your BJ8 - one of the things that let's you know that
the world hasn't gone to hell in a hand basket yet!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
James Sailer wrote:
>
> Greetings all.
>
> Though I'd drop a post as I am driving my BJ8 once again. First for the
> season and will enjoy it until until fall sets in (pretty quick probably see
> snow in the mountains in a few weeks...)....
>
> Accomplishments. Brake master and servo rebuilt, new stailess braided brake
> hoses, everything cleaned and painted (front suspension and wheel wells)...
> Powder coated many parts including the brake fluid resevoir, backing
> plates, misc hardware .....Installed the brakes, bled them out methodically
> and they are terrific!!! Flushed 1.5 quarts of fluid through the system as
> I switched from Silicon to DOt 3/4 (Valvoline synthetic)... We'll see if
> the wheel cylinders or calipers start to leak and need rebuilding.. (such is
> life if they do) ....
>
> Added a monza exhaust. Had to do some modifications to it to make it fit
> but it was pretty much a snap... Sounds great..... I am pleased.....
> Ceramic coated the head pipes to improve temperature.....
>
> Installed a new front hub (where one was badly worn) and installed new wheel
> bearings on both sides .. She was due....
>
> All - in - all she is running great... (and fitting her name - Xena).
>
> Thanks to all for the help this past year. I'll be pulling the rear this
> winter and installing new seals, rebuilding the rear brakes (clean/paint/
> etc)....... and clean and paint all itmes under in the rear area.... So I'm
> sure there will be questions along those lines..
>
> Cheers..
>
> Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 10:49:25 -0400
Subject: Re: 3000 timing tensioner
Michael,
The sleeve with the nubby spiral is vital for holding the rubber block in
it's
tensioned position against the timing chain. It is what keeps the plunger
from moving up and down while the chain revolves. I would recommend
getting an entirely new tensioner, rather than just replacing the sleeve.
It's
only 20 bucks.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Snow" <MJHSnow@sprintmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2001 9:11 PM
Subject: 3000 timing tensioner
>
> I am missing the sleeve inside the tensioner. There
> is a spring. How important is the sleeve with the
> diagonal in it and if important where can I find this
> sleeve?
>
> Thanks, Michael Snow
> San Diego
> mjhsnow@sprintmail.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 10:56:07 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fuel Pressure
Hi Jorge,
In my experience 3 lb/sqin is plenty of fuel pressure for SU carbs as
long as this is maintained at all times.
The most common cause of fuel starvation is failure of the fuel pump
which can be intermittent.
I would suggest that you drive the car until the problem occurs,
immediately turn off the ignition, coast to a stop, then remove the
float chamber tops and check the actual fuel level. It the floats are
sitting on the bottom of the float chambers you have a fuel starvation
problem, if not, look elsewhere for the problem.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 11:01:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake and rear axle question
Hi Jerry,
A little more information would be helpful.
Is the car on wire of pressed steel wheels?
Was a rear wheel or rear spline ever loose?
There is no real load on the drum screws if the 5 wheel or spline nuts
are tight.
If the shoe is not too badly oil soaked you can usually get away with
sanding off the surface (careful the friction material may contain
asbestos) then using those 2 shoes as the trailing shoes on both sides.
Not ideal but usually satisfactory.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 10:13:51 -0500
Subject: Fuel Pump Pressure
Jorge Garcia wrote >I am trying to troubleshoot what appears to be a fuel
starvation problem with my BJ8 and I hooked a pressure
gauge to the fuel line at the carburetor and got a
reading of 3 lbs. Does anyone know if this is what the
carbs need to function properly. <
According to "Tuning S.U. Carburetters" 3rd Edition, the amount of gas
needed is "slightly more than the engine needs" the float valve regulates
the amount of gas released to the carburettor.
If you need any information regarding needles sizes, or specific information
regarding tuning, please e-mail me off list and I will try to respond based
on the informaiton in this book.
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 20:18:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: BMIHT Certificate price increase
I got about 5 of 'em for $5.00.....i think the 1st in'82??
don't know where they are .....which is why i kept them @ the office......
if i can i'll get it scanned.....as my 100 "Agnes" certificate said the 1st time
i requested one said......"these
Steve Byers wrote:
> And I got mine in August, 1984 for $5. In those days, your money got you a
> simple form letter from Anders Clausager with the manufacturing data on your
> car,
> not the blue and gold "suitable for framing" certificate available now.
>
> This made me wonder how long the certificate service has been available.
> Through the kindness of those BJ8 owners who believe in and support the BJ8
> registry, I have been able to collect more than 300 copies of certs. The
> oldest one I have is for HBJ8/43002G (13 August 1981, fee: 1 pound). The
> next oldest belongs to one of our own, Len Hartnett (The Other Len), 23
> August 82, fee: $5.
>
> Does anyone have a certificate issued earlier? Warning: if it's a cert for
> a BJ8
> I'm going to ask for a copy!
>
> Happy Healeying!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
> > To: "Herman Farrer" <herman@hfphoto.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 12:34 PM
> > Subject: RE: BMIHT Certificate price increase
> >
> >
> > >
> > > And to think, I got mine for $10.00 in 1989....
> > > Steve
> > > 61BN7
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >For those of you who have delayed getting your BMIHT certificate, now
> > > >might be the time. After September 1, the price increases from
> > > >$40.00 to $50.00.
> > >
> > > >Herman
>
> .
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 16:04:24 -0400
Subject: bn1 chassis/frame
Does anyone know where I might find a bn1 chassis/frame in decent shape and
what might be the cost?
lance
54 bn1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 17:16:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Headlamp buckets
Come on guys, too trivial or to esoteric? Can't even get a caustic response
from Ed at justbrits?
Sid
----- Original Message -----
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 10:34 PM
Subject: Headlamp buckets
>
> In reconditioning my 65 BJ827368 I find than one spring tang in the bucket
is
> about 1/2" long and keeps the spring under tension and the other buckets
tang
> is about 1" long and the spring is not under tension. Both are stamped
F700
> MKX.
> What is going on here? PO had some front fender collision repair done.
Which
> is correct?
> Sid.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 20:26:43 -0400
Subject: Re: bn1 chassis/frame
You can order a brand new one from Kilmartin in Australia for around $3000
US, according to their catalog. Order it through British Car Specialists in
Stockton, CA.
Bob
>
>Does anyone know where I might find a bn1 chassis/frame in decent shape and
>what might be the cost?
>lance
>54 bn1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 21:03:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Headlamp buckets
<<Can't even get a caustic response
from Ed at justbrits?>>
Gee, "sorry" Sid. Since you "know better" and buy (er aquire) parts and
"knowledge" elsewhere, I just can't LYE about your ??.
Frankly, Just haven't had time to look up the parts nos. 'cause a couple of
folks have been paying me to work on their cars and a few others have
purchased parts which either require packaging to ship or ordering to get
in..
Why don't you check your own BJ7/8 Service Parts Manual??
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 19:49:50 -0700
Subject: Suspension Bushings
I see Tom's Import Toy Sales has "Black Elastomeric" bushing kits that promise
"no squeaks."
Has anybody tried these? If, indeed, they provide the stiffer suspension of
polyurethane or
nylon bushings without the squeaking or "thunking" they might be worth having.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 21:00:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: CA Black Plate Law Vetoed!
Below is the report on AB 834, the California Black Plate law. I realize
that, as a group, we may be divided on this issue: Some of us (with black
plates) don't want more people to get them, especially cars that are not
original California cars. Some of us (with white plates) want to get them
to add that bit of nostalgia! But all in all, they're just license plates.
Your cars are still beautiful, regardless of plate color!
===============================================================
Subj: Vintage License Plate Update! AB 834 Vetoed by Governor!
Date: 8/31/01 1:32:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time
From: William.Bird@asm.ca.gov (Bird, William)
Dear Friends,
I am deeply dissapointed to report to you that Governor Davis has just
vetoed AB 834, the Vintage License Plate measure from Assemblyman Mike
Briggs. Assemblyman Briggs is saddened by the Governor's decision, and is
looking at several options.
I have included the Governor's veto message below. Assemblyman Briggs and
his staff express our deep gratitude to everyone who called, emailed and
wrote the Governor on behalf of AB 834. Your actions are very much
appreciated, and I'm sorry that we could not deliver better news.
Bill Bird
Communications Director
Assemblyman Mike Briggs
29th Assembly District
Governor's Veto Message
August 30, 2001
To Members of the California State Assembly
I am returning Assembly Bill 834 without my signature.
This bill would authorize the extension of the Year of Manufacture license
plate program to include automobiles that were manufactured prior to 1970,
and commercial vehicles, including light duty trucks, that were manufactured
prior to 1973.
This bill conflicts with the intent of existing law, which requires the
Department of Motor Vehicles to issue license plates that are reflectorized.
The older license plates authorized by this bill doe not contain
reflectorized material. This change represents a significant potential
public safety problem as reflectorization assists police officers and
citizens in accurately identifying vehicles that are involved in unlawful
activities.
The purpose of the vehicle license plate is for identification and
registration purposes only. Allowing the expansion of the program, as
indicated in this bill, would make tens of thousands of old license plates
containing blue and black background colors eligible for the Year of
Manufacture license plate program. I am not supportive of allowing such a
significant increase in the number of non-reflectorized license plates on
our streets and highways.
Sincerely,
Gray Davis
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 13:38:05 +0100
Subject: UK 50th Anniversary 2002 Ccelebrations Booking Form now
The latest update to the UK Austin Healey Club web site includes more
details of this major event and a downloadable pdf Booking Form.
It is essential to book early for this event - places are filling fast.
-
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 11:38:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Headlamp buckets
Amen.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hocert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 13:49:04 -0500
Subject: Suspension Bushings
Bob:
I believe that changing out the OEM type suspension bushings for a harder
material is not beneficial to the car or driver in the case of big Healeys.
The reason is that the design and manufacture of the front suspension
causes the bushes to bind as the suspension travels up and down. That is
the reason that you hear squeaks, clunks and thumps when poly bushes are
installed. They bind up, then release with a 'pop'. That is also why the
ride is so harsh with poly bushes.
The castor on the front suspension is built into the chassis by having the
horizontal centerline of the rear suspension bracket one-half inch closer
to the top of the chassis than the horizontal centerline of the front
suspension bracket. This provides two degrees of positive castor for the
suspension. Unfortunately, in the manufacturing process, the brackets are
installed at a 90 degree vertical angle to the chassis instead of 88
degrees. In addition, the shock tower is 90 degrees vertical to the
chassis instead of 88 degrees. Thus, both the upper and lower A-arms do
not travel in plane with the castor angle causing the suspension to bind
slightly as it works. The OEM rubber bushes absorb the binding and
actually snug up somewhat in a tight turn.
The best solution, absent blueprinting the suspension and changing the
angles of the brackets, is to replace the rubber bushes with OEM type
bushes as a regular maintenance item.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 15:36:30 -0400
Subject: Re: American and Canadian Healeys on their Europe tour
Martin, Excellent pictures. It was very nice to meet you and
to have you join
in some of our festivities. We have now finished out trip. Tom
Felts posted a
note describing some of our experiences. I hope to eventually
post a note and
reference some pictures at a web site. However, I've not yet
set up a web site.
As you know, I was taking a lot of digital pictures. I've not
yet sorted the
over 1000 pictures I took with the digital camera... (I've got 7
CD's worth of
pictures burned... i.e. 4.2GB of imagery)... However, I have
one that was taken
from the driver's seat looking down the Champs Elysee towards
the Arch de Triumph
... the picture was taken at night, in traffic, with the GPS
shining brightly on
the dash... and the distinctive Healey front shroud visible.
Another was taken
of the Eifel Tower, again at night, from the moving car with all
the lights in
motion (due to the car movement)...:-)... I'm thinking of
getting these printed
for my office.
I think I was the only member of the tour who drove into
downtown Paris... But, I
was also the only member who had benefit of a GPS box with
detailed maps of
Europe. That turned out to be a real boon to not only
efficient driving, but
also to a relaxed atmosphere between driver and navigator. We
always knew where
we were... we didn't necessarily always know where we wanted to
be, but knowing
where you are is usually a nice thing. At any rate, navigating
through Paris
would have been awful without the little box, but with it, it
was a piece of cake
(i.e. easy)... The traffic was no where near as challenging as
its reputation;
Florence and Boston are easily more difficult driving cities,
(and I'm used to
Boston)...
At any rate, I wanted to say thanks for visiting us, thanks for
taking us to the
Bugati museum... (and yes, I fully recovered from the rolling
Peugeot
demonstration, ...) And lastly, best wishes on your Healey
project.
-Skip-
Helga & Martin Heim wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> some of you might know that 12 couples do a Europe roundtrip with
> their Healeys. I could meet them on July, 7th in Badenweiler (South of
> Germany, Blackwood Forest, near Muehlhausen/France). That was the
> closest point to my hometown. I just had some email contact with Skip
> and Tom Felts. It was really nice to meet some Healey lister face to
> face. I enjoyed the evening and the other day when we went to the
> Schlumpf Bugatti Museum very much. You may see some pictures I took
> when the Healeys were on display in Badenweiler at
> http://epost.pixum.de/viewalbum/?id=112118 .
> Hope you enjoy them.
>
> Best regards
>
> Martin
> Germany
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 15:04:32 -0500
Subject: big healey shop and parts manuals
I've noticed over the past year or so, the answers to many of the questions
posted on the list are readily available in either the shop manual or the
detailed parts manuals. In fact, with a parts manual you can decipher the
exact type, size and finish for every nut, bolt and screw and its specific
application by the part number. the parts lists codes can be found in appendix
1 of the Anderson/Moment restoration guide ( $25 )
100 shop manual.....$42
100 parts manual......$47.45
100-6/3000 shop manual....$42
BN4 parts manual.................$47.45
BN6 parts manual ( use BN7)
BN7/BT7 parts manual..........$47.45
BJ7/BJ8 parts manual............$47.45
shipping charges -- $5 for the first book, $1 for each additional. you can
email me your visa or mc info. checks payable to ahc, usa and sent to:
jerry wall
7217 birchmont dr.
rowlett, tx 75089
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 17:14:10 -0400
Subject: Paging Curt Arndt
STBTL.
Curt Arndt, please contact me.
Thanks!
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 17:45:48 -0400
Subject: Re:Manuals
Hi,
I have the following manuals that are in overall good condition that wood
make excellent reference manuals. They are available for the cost of
shipping.
1) Bentley, The Complete Official MGB manual
2) MGB Workshop Manul 1976
3) Factory TR7 Repair Operation Manual, dated January 1977
4) Factory MG Midget Workshop Manual
Thanks.
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 17:50:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Raydyot Race Mirror
I have one Raydyot racing mirror that needs to be restored. It is missing
the base, but otherwise is in very good condition with the normal dings
considering it's age. If interested please contact me off the list.
Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 19:02:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Antique Auto Battery
Larry Dickstein wrote:
> Anyone else had dealings w/ Antique Auto Battery in Hudson, OH?
Well, after some hassle, battery #3 arrived last week With some
trepidation, I went through the routine again. More electrolyte and
charging. I noticed that as soon as I hooked the charger up at 10 amps, the
meter indicated that it was charging. The first two indicated just the
opposite.
It seems that this battery is a good one! It starts the car w/ no
trouble (a bone stock 43 hp Bugeye) and will run the lights, turn signals,
fan motor, wipers, and horn all at once w/ the engine off! I think I have a
keeper here.
The folks at Antique Auto Battery went from "this never happens" to "it
rarely happens". They did make the battery right but did not want to
reimburse me for the wasted electrolyte so they didn't.
If the 3rd time is the charm, I'd suggest not waiting until two weeks
before "the show" to order one of their batteries, even though they can get
one in about ten days. This whole ordeal took nearly two months. I waited
because I didn't want to have a battery lying around w/ a 90 day replacement
warranty for a couple of months before I used it.
Long story short-two defective batteries back to back but they made it
right for me!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 17:56:04 -0700
Subject: BJ8 MkIII Grille
I am disassembling the front grille on my BJ8. I have successfully removed the
grille slat assembly and the top cowl. I am stuck on how to remove the
surround. I have removed all nuts and released the surround and it looks like
it should be removed back through the opening because of the flanges on the
rear side. However it doesn't want to go through the opening as the surround
front lip which fits snugly to the shroud catches on each side. No matter how
much I wiggle the surround it won't come through the hole.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
David Neale
BN7
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 18:59:24 -0700
Subject: Horizontal Shock
Many thanks to all of you who responded to my question about installing a
normal automotive shock absorber in the horizontal position on a street
sweeper.
This was not even a Healey topic, but I received many responses. This List
is great. I now have some direction on how to proceed.
John Snyder (4 3000s and a sweeper)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 23:50:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
> The need for octane is a function of many different factors - not purely
> compression ratios. Modern cars (eg my Turbo charged Subaru) is capable of
> adjusting its own computer controlled ignition, (i.e. advancing itself) in
> order to gain maximum performance from the 98 octane unleaded premium
fuels
> now available here in Australia. It effectively advances the ignition
until
> it pings - then retards until the pinging stops. So there is no question
of
> 'wasting money' on better fuel - the engine adapts & uses the octane.
====
Correct, but the trade off is higher combustion chamber/head temperatures,
which at least in the case of older cars increases exhaust valve/valve seat
wear.
====
> Compression ratio is 8:1 - its a 2 litre turbo - and Subaru says don't use
> less than 96 octane fuel. Ever.
====
I'll bet! Shock waves generated from 'knocking' can shatter turbo rotors,
but IMO it's not an indictment against running lower octane gas in a
non-turbo motor if it runs fine at the factory ignition/carb settings.
====
>
> And that's basically the same principle for non computer controlled cars -
> eg Healeys. But it is a manual process called 'tuning' Put the best fuel
in
> you can buy - then advance the ignition until it pings - then retard the
> ignition until it stops pinging.
====
This can be a 'you pays yer money and take yer chances' situation WRT
cylinder head/piston/rings longevity if you don't 'read' your sparkplugs
carefully. Of course if you have hardened seats or inserts and the
appropriate exhaust valves, then this is the way to go if best efficiency is
desired, though if you use really high octane boosters you'll have to
recurve the distributor/add cam, headers, tuned intake for max benefit.
====
Alternatively, another method (which I
> haven't tried - but I am assured works) - is just put crap low octane
(less
> than 96 octane) fuel in - retard the hell out of the ignition until it
stops
> pinging - and have an unresponsive & hard to start underperforming
'sports'
> car - but you can smile 'cause you saved a dollar or two a tankfull ....
====
Don't know about around the world, but Stateside, I don't believe they sell
fuel this low in octane. ;^) Even the cheap 'blends' they sell at some food
mart chains don't require retarding the ignition of any motor I'm familiar
with.
====
>
> BTW - I haven't ever found a 'fuel' statement in a big Healey owners
> handbook (3000's are 9:1 compression)- but the statement in the Sprite
> owners handbook for 9:1 compression Sprites says:
>
> "...fuels with an octane rating below 96 are not suitable; should it be
> necessary to use a fuel with a lower octane number, the car must be used
> very carefully until the correct fuel can be obtained. It is recommended
> that super grade fuels with an octane rating of 100 be used when optimum
> performance is required." P.20 AKD1627D (Sprite Mk II - 9:1 compression
> engine - drivers handbook)
>
> "...fuels with an octane rating below 98 are not suitable; should it be
> necessary to use a fuel with a lower octane number, the car must be used
> very carefully until the correct fuel can be obtained. It is necessary to
> use super grade fuels in the 100 octane range unless premium fuels of
> minimum 98-octane (Research method) are available." P.21 AKD3899G 1967
> Sprite Mk III - 8.9:1 compression - drivers handbook.)
>
====
FWIW, the old standard among American manufacturers was to base octane
requirements solely on the compression ratio:
Ratio/Octane
5:1/72
6:1/81
7:1/87
8:1/92
9:1/96
10:1/100
11:1/104
12:1/108
I ran a much modified Chevy 350 with 11:1CR (measured) up until I sold it
a few years ago on Chevron premium with no ill effects, and you can bet it
wasn't 104 octane. ;^) As you noted, it's all about balance. I always ran
Amoco White in the good ol' days since it didn't have any lead to clog fuel
bowls/jets, and had sufficient octane for my daily needs. Since I
could/did run more timing than stock in all the foriegn cars I drove, this
told me that regular could/should be used, but there wasn't any unleaded
regular available, and I no longer owned any of them by the time it was.
My '88 RX-7 with CCI FI specs 87 or higher octane and I can't tell any 'seat
of the pants' difference with premium, other than a much lighter wallet
since it's not very fuel efficient with the stringent pollution controls a
rotary design requires. :^(
====
> Do your own research - spend your own money - take your own chances. None
of
> the above is relevant to the 'lead' issue - merely octane. Make your own
> arrangements for valve seat lubrication.
>
> Chris
====
Yes, the bottom line is Caveat Emptor, and my advice over the years has been
to use the lowest octane rating that maintains the lowest combustion
temperature without knocking at the factory tuning specs. This may mean
different octanes for different cars depending on condition, driving habits,
time of year, and locale. Lead or other octane boosters requires a higher
temperature to ignite the fuel. So if the CR isn't high enough or the spark
hot enough, incomplete combustion occurs, leaving deposits that will
increase the CR, which means hotter temperatures, etc.. An insidious cycle
that eventually burns out the top end/pistons. For pleasure use, it will
take
longer of course, but no sense in wearing it out before its time.
GM
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 21:53:51 +0100
Subject: Moss vs Heritage Tonneau Results and Thank You
Thank you to all the individuals who responded to my question
concerning Moss or Heritage as the best source for a tonneau.
The results found one positive and four not so positive comments for
Moss tonneaus, and three positive and no negative comments for Heritage
tonneaus. The major complaint against the Moss tonneau was that tonneau
flaps did not fit the tonneau support rod. One person felt the quality
from Heritage, stitching, overall construction, was markedly superior,
while another person bought three tonneaus from Moss and was happy with
all three.
Heritage sent me samples of tonneau material, about six different
pieces of vinyl, two samples of cloth, and four samples of carpet. This
helps me enormously as I can now easily see which of the samples matches
my original tonneau, which in my case was an off white/antique white
color. Moss was not able to do this.
One person said he paid some extra bucks and got the tan canvas for his
MG TF and it was very nice. Another paid extra for the dark blue Sunfast
cloth and it made a "striking" tonneau and he was very pleased. Either
one of those colors would work with my Healey. So now I'm thinking about
the cloth, although it costs an extra $100. What to do, what to do.
Thanks again, I appreciate your help,
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 22:07:44 +0100
Subject: Polishing a BT7 window, and crack repair
My BT7 window has about four million tiny somethings in it. When you
drive toward a setting sun the window looks as if someone sprayed some
dulling spray on it. You want to go into a gas station and wash the
"film" off but it is on permanently.
Has anyone used and can you recommend some sort of glass polishing
material, perhaps applied with a hand drill buff pad or orbiter, that
could clean up the surface and take out all these tiny pits?
The window also has a three leg crack about 1 1/2" long - can this be
taken out with the window crack remover product carried in auto parts
stores? Or should I take it to a professional?
Thanks in advance,
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 00:30:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Polishing a BT7 window, and crack repair
Not sure if it'll help you, but I recently caught a show on Speedvision
where this guy was telling how they do the windows on show cars. He used
00000 steel wool, with a little lubricant (maybe dish detergent, can't
remember) on the windshield first. Claimed it took off the stuff nothing
else seems to. Doubt it'll take out pits though.
As for the crack, that sounds kind of on the large side for a repair kit.
They work by drawing a vacuum on one side of the windshield which sucks the
glue (crazy glue from what I can tell) into the crack. Problem is, the area
covered by the little suction disc isn't very big. Maybe you could remove
and reposition it. Pros probably have better equipment than the local Pep Boys.
BK
----------------------------
At 02:07 PM 9/3/2001, you wrote:
>My BT7 window has about four million tiny somethings in it. When you
>drive toward a setting sun the window looks as if someone sprayed some
>dulling spray on it. You want to go into a gas station and wash the
>"film" off but it is on permanently.
>
> Has anyone used and can you recommend some sort of glass polishing
>material, perhaps applied with a hand drill buff pad or orbiter, that
>could clean up the surface and take out all these tiny pits?
>
> The window also has a three leg crack about 1 1/2" long - can this be
>taken out with the window crack remover product carried in auto parts
>stores? Or should I take it to a professional?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>Rich Locasso
>Huntington Beach, CA
>BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michel R. Gagne" <mgagne at unc.edu>
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 05:45:20 -0400
Subject: Sand box and powder coater
Hi all,
I9m looking for a small, preferably bench top blaster that I can use for
restoring smallish pieces that will work with the usual media. If you have
one you would like to unload, please contact me off list, I9m in North
Carolina.
Has anybody purchased the HotCoat powder coating system from Eastwood. Any
personal commentaries on the utility of this product?
Thanks again,
Mike Gagne
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 08:53:38 -0500
Subject: Aluminum door panel corrosion
Hi all,
Can anyone suggest a method to remove and/or seal the corrosion on
the backs of the aluminum trim pieces that cover the door shunts and
sills. I have the usual pitting with the accompanying white powder
where the trim touched the steel. I have used a wire brush and steel
wool to remove as much of the corrosion as possible. What do I do
next?
TIA,
Herman
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mondrosch, John" <John.Mondrosch at icn.siemens.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 09:01:06 -0400
Subject: Spotted in RI yesterday
Phase II BJ8 BRG headed east on US 6 just west of Providence RI around 3PM
yesterday afternoon.
Followed by a 1930s Sedan (make unknow) Belong to anyone on the list?
I was heading west in my rental car on the way back to Hartford and the
airport...
Always nice to see one on the road. That makes 3 this year besides mine.
John A. Mondrosch
'63 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Roger S. Bowker" <sextant at charter.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 09:28:57 -0400
Subject: leaf spring recommendations and/or suggestions
My 59BT7 was resprung about 4 years ago when I restored the car, but the
rear end still seems to hunker down way too much.
Other than the Moss and the Vic Brit generic springs - what else is out
there with a little more beef and a little less sag. Any experiences with
what Dennis Welch is offering for springs?
I assume that the photo of the MKI BT7 on page 140 of "The Healey Story"
shows a properly sprung new MKI healey. You can actually see some
significant space between the top of the tire and the wheel arch.
Roger Bowker 59BT7
Harvard, Ma. - tired of using my tailpipes as a skid plate.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 09:54:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake caliper dripping fluid.
Hi Simon,
I would suspect that the caliper has been heated at some time, probably
to get seized parts out, and the channel seal which is located between
the caliper halves has been damaged.
We have the seal in stock at he massive price of $CDN1.98 ea. if you
need it.
I know the great book says not to take the calipers apart but if you
want to replace the channel seal you have to split the halves.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 10:14:36 -0400
Subject: Re: shut pillar gusset question - rephrase/retry
Hi Roland,
I will give it a shot for you but if someone knows otherwise please correct me.
As I recall the gusset is fitted with the plain edge toward the door post and
the
small folded flanges on the other 2 sides toward the centre of the car.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> Maybe I'll get an answer if I shorten the question:
> You know that triangular brace that goes behind the door shut pillar
> at the bottom? about 5 inches on a side? two sides have a 1/4" 90
> degree folded flange and the other is plain, and there is a hole in it
> about 1 1/2" diameter? Can anyone tell me exactly how or where this
> fits? Does one edge go diagonally across the back of the shut pillar
> from the inner edge of the rocker panel up to the fender sheet metal,
> or does it sit parallel to the fender and riding just inboard from the
> fender, generally vertically? Is the edge that goes against the shut
> pillar the plain one or with a folded flange?
>
> Thanks.
>
> -Roland
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 09:52:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Polishing a BT7 window, and crack repair
Rich: Seems to me you need a new windshield.
Check your insurance. Most insurers will pay to replace a cracked
windshield with no deductible because it is considered unsafe.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 5:07 PM
Subject: Polishing a BT7 window, and crack repair
>
> My BT7 window has about four million tiny somethings in it. When you
> drive toward a setting sun the window looks as if someone sprayed some
> dulling spray on it. You want to go into a gas station and wash the
> "film" off but it is on permanently.
>
> Has anyone used and can you recommend some sort of glass polishing
> material, perhaps applied with a hand drill buff pad or orbiter, that
> could clean up the surface and take out all these tiny pits?
>
> The window also has a three leg crack about 1 1/2" long - can this be
> taken out with the window crack remover product carried in auto parts
> stores? Or should I take it to a professional?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Rich Locasso
> Huntington Beach, CA
> BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Kevin Richards <flybirds at erols.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 11:31:09 -0400
Subject: British car show in CT October 7th!
Greetings fellow British Car listers. Finally, after a great deal of
organizing
and planning, my friends Gary and Dave have put together the
First Annual British Autumn Car show and Autojumble.
The First British Autumn will take place in Somers, CT and will start
around 10am.
I have enclosed via a link, a copy of the flyer we have made. Please
make its first year a success and come out and visit with your favorite
British car, motorcycle, whatever. Great place to set up a spot to vend
also(please call first to arrange). Get rid of all your garage clutter
to fund that winter British car restoration!
CLICK HERE!
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1088246&a=13653026&p=53761379
Just wanted to let you listers know about it since it is a new show, and
we hope to continue it for years to come. Plenty of activities for the
family and especially the kids. Driving range, miniature golf, etc.
Great food, beautiful cars and an autojumble to boot!
Contact:
Gary Booker at 203 230 9782 or 203 248 9255
Dave Sturtevant at dlsturt@aol.com or 860 763 0371
Thanks
Kevin Richards
1962 MGA in "half way there stage"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 08:31:17 -0700
Subject: Heater shut off valve
Fellow Healey Colleagues,
I am seeking a Healey 3000 shut off valve assembly that goes into the right
side of the engine block above the oil filter. This is to receive the hose
back to the heater. I have discovered it missing and need one desperately.
Please help. I am told that this piece is interchangeable with most big
Healeys.
dp
BJ8 almost complete..........
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 11:47:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Heater shut off valve
We have these available new and also have a few used ones available.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 11:51:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear Stop/Tail and Flasher Lens - BN1
The original Lucas lenses are very hard to come by, almost as rare a hens
teeth. We do have some origianal Lucas used lenses in good condition
available.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 09:19:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 fuel problems continued
A few days ago I wrote asking if 3lbs of pressure was
adequate. Many of you wrote me and told me that 3lbs
was indeed within spec. Thanks to all of you who wrote
me.
The fuel starvation was caused by rust from the gas
tank clogging an inline fuel filter that was installed
between the fuel pump and the tank.
What is the common wisdom on this list as to the best
cure for a rusty gas tank problem?
Replace the gas tank with a new steel unit?
Have the gas tank resealed? or
Replace the gas tank with a fuel cell - a generic
type?
My car has been inactive since 1983 and I've had the
carburetors rebuilt, all the rubber fuel lines
replaced and the fuel pump was also replaced.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Jorge
bj8
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 11:28:12 -0500
Subject: Healey's with AC
I was talking to a man the other day that said the last year or two that
3000's were produced some had air conditioners (installed by a third
party, not from the plant.) I have never seen one advertised with it.
I was wondering if anyone on the list has installed an aftermarket AC
into their Healey. I am fixing to purchase a Healey (as soon as I find
the right one) and would be interested in installing an aftermarket air
conditioner. An AC sure would come in handy down here in Mississippi in
the summer. However, I wouldn't want to do anything to compromise the
integrity of the car. Anybody out there have any advice?
Win Graham
--
A film is never really good unless the camera
is an eye in the head of a poet.
--Orson Welles
Artists must be sacrificed to their art.
Like bees, they must put their lives into
the sting they give.
--Ralph Waldo Emerson
______________________________________________________
Homepage: http://www.wingraham.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 12:53:02 -0500
Subject: Re: leaf spring recommendations and/or suggestions
what size tires are you running ?
Roger S. Bowker wrote:
>
>
> My 59BT7 was resprung about 4 years ago when I restored the car, but the
> rear end still seems to hunker down way too much.
>
> Other than the Moss and the Vic Brit generic springs - what else is out
> there with a little more beef and a little less sag. Any experiences with
> what Dennis Welch is offering for springs?
>
> I assume that the photo of the MKI BT7 on page 140 of "The Healey Story"
> shows a properly sprung new MKI healey. You can actually see some
> significant space between the top of the tire and the wheel arch.
>
> Roger Bowker 59BT7
> Harvard, Ma. - tired of using my tailpipes as a skid plate.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 11:08:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey's with AC
> I was wondering if anyone on the list has installed
> an aftermarket AC
> into their Healey.
Win,
I believe that Smitty and Jim Albrek (sp) have AC in
their cars...
Dean
BN7
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 14:29:05 -0400
Subject: Zinc spring interleaf & Kopex tubing.
Being the ultimate parts man I could not let these 2 items go
uninvestigated.
We now have inventory of both the original Kopex tubing in both 4" and 3
1/4"
and 0.030" zinc sheet to make rear spring interleaf strips.
Anyone interested in "the real thing" please contact me off line.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 11:33:02 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey's with AC
Win,
I have seen the BJ8's with dealer installed AC from the 60's. They are big
units that hang below the glovebox door and intrude on the passenger knee
room. I plan to install a Vintage Air hotrod unit that also contains a
heater. When doing a combined unit, by removing the existing heater, a lot
of space will be gained.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Roger S. Bowker" <sextant at charter.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 15:11:20 -0400
Subject: Re: leaf spring recommendations and/or suggestions
Jerry
I'm running 165R15Dunlops on 60 spoke rims.
Any other spring suggestions or experiences out there?
Roger B
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <sextant@charter.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: leaf spring recommendations and/or suggestions
| what size tires are you running ?
| Roger S. Bowker wrote:
| >
| >
| > My 59BT7 was resprung about 4 years ago when I restored the car, but
the
| > rear end still seems to hunker down way too much.
| >
| > Other than the Moss and the Vic Brit generic springs - what else is out
| > there with a little more beef and a little less sag. Any experiences
with
| > what Dennis Welch is offering for springs?
| >
| > I assume that the photo of the MKI BT7 on page 140 of "The Healey
Story"
| > shows a properly sprung new MKI healey. You can actually see some
| > significant space between the top of the tire and the wheel arch.
| >
| > Roger Bowker 59BT7
| > Harvard, Ma. - tired of using my tailpipes as a skid plate.
| >
| > >
|
|
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 12:21:46 -0700
Subject: Polishing or replacing a BT7 window,
The comment that most insurance companies will pay for a replacement
windshield if it is for safety reasons. I called my insurance company
(Safeco) about my daily driver with stars in the glass and they won't
replace it.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 14:36:00 -0500
Subject: Re: leaf spring recommendations and/or suggestions
roger
when you get ready to replace your 165's, go to 175x15 michelin ( available
from british wire wheel, coker tire or hendrix wire wheel ) it is
substantially taller than your 165 and is as close as you can come in height to
the original 590x15 roadspeed. you will automatically gain approximately 1/2"
additional ground clearance.
happy healeying,
jerry
Roger S. Bowker wrote:
>
> Jerry
> I'm running 165R15Dunlops on 60 spoke rims.
> Any other spring suggestions or experiences out there?
>
> Roger B
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> To: <sextant@charter.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 1:53 PM
> Subject: Re: leaf spring recommendations and/or suggestions
>
>
> | what size tires are you running ?
> | Roger S. Bowker wrote:
> | >
> | >
> | > My 59BT7 was resprung about 4 years ago when I restored the car, but
> the
> | > rear end still seems to hunker down way too much.
> | >
> | > Other than the Moss and the Vic Brit generic springs - what else is out
> | > there with a little more beef and a little less sag. Any experiences
> with
> | > what Dennis Welch is offering for springs?
> | >
> | > I assume that the photo of the MKI BT7 on page 140 of "The Healey
> Story"
> | > shows a properly sprung new MKI healey. You can actually see some
> | > significant space between the top of the tire and the wheel arch.
> | >
> | > Roger Bowker 59BT7
> | > Harvard, Ma. - tired of using my tailpipes as a skid plate.
> | >
> | > >
> |
> |
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TBanks at LEVI.com
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 13:34:11 -0700
Subject: Starter kills electrics
Took my BJ8 for its annual inspection (Belgian style) this morning. Car was
maybe a bit sluggish to start from cold, but when warm made a couple of
stops and restarts during the inspection until final start before departure
and clunk from solenoid but no turnover of starter. I presumed the multiple
starts had drained the battery and after a push start made it home (10
miles) without problems. One attempt at restart in the garage again failed
with clunk from solenoid but no starter turnover.
This evening I go down to the garage to have a proper look. The car is dead
- no lights, no fuel pump, no ignition light. I sit thinking for a few
seconds. Try the ignition key again and on come lights and clickclick fuel
pump. I then try the starter. A single clunk and once again all the
electrics die - and this time they don't come back.
I'm suspecting a bad connection somewhere. Does this sound likely? And if
so, where's a good place to start looking?
TIA
Tom Banks
'64 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Classic-Car-World" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 22:03:18 +0100
Subject: Re: Sand box and powder coater
Mike, we have a company registered on our site at
www.classic-car-world.co.uk called ACE Engineering Products, they provide
portable grit blasting equipment. I'm not sure if they export to the States
but it would be worth dropping them an e-mail or checking out their web
site.
Their details can be found under the trader section, either search for the
name or under Blasting as the service.
Kindest regards
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel R. Gagne" <mgagne@unc.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:45 AM
Subject: Sand box and powder coater
>
> Hi all,
>
> I9m looking for a small, preferably bench top blaster that I can use for
> restoring smallish pieces that will work with the usual media. If you
have
> one you would like to unload, please contact me off list, I9m in North
> Carolina.
>
> Has anybody purchased the HotCoat powder coating system from Eastwood.
Any
> personal commentaries on the utility of this product?
>
> Thanks again,
> Mike Gagne
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bob Townsend <bobt at net66.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 16:31:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Starter kills electrics
Try the battery connections first.
Bob Townsend
BN-1 & BN-2
TBanks@LEVI.com wrote:
>
> I'm suspecting a bad connection somewhere. Does this sound likely? And if
> so, where's a good place to start looking?
>
> TIA
> Tom Banks
> '64 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bonas420 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 18:16:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey's with AC
Win
I remember a car from CA at Conclave in Sturbridge MA (early 90's). This car
had power windows and an AC unit. Hopefully somebody on the left coast will
speak up for ya.
happy healeying
nathan bennett
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 18:24:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Easy Driving
Hi all; My family had an outing yesterday on Labour Day Monday to
Niagara-on-the-Lake and Niagara Falls. As usual, I kept a lookout for
LBC's as we drove the back roads across country from out home in Simcoe
to N-o-t-L. What struck me quite forcefully was the lack of British
cars or even other interesting cars. Bikes on the other hand seemed
to be everywhere, ridden by all ages - there was even a family of three
with a sidecar and trailer - quite a sight. I spotted a MGB parts car
parked by an old country garage, a TR 6, kit-car Laser?, and a Midget.
Quite disappointing.
But then we met spotted a gorgeous shinny aluminum bodied Healey 100 on
the Niagara Parkway drive. It made our - well - my day. There was
Blair Harber booting along in his #14 pre-production AHX-14. It was a
sight to behold. Blair, if you happen to read this, thank you. These
cars were meant to be driven and seeing you with your big grin and
others cranking their heads around for a look-see gave me and my family
a real chuckle of appreciation.
We enjoyed the day very much but once we got home in the early evening,
I was out working again on my Tricarb. I've just got to get it on the
road.
--Scott Morris
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
Get your free @yahoo.ca address at http://mail.yahoo.ca
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 17:39:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Starter kills electrics
try cleaning the battery posts and terminals.
TBanks@LEVI.com wrote:
>
>
> Took my BJ8 for its annual inspection (Belgian style) this morning. Car was
> maybe a bit sluggish to start from cold, but when warm made a couple of
> stops and restarts during the inspection until final start before departure
> and clunk from solenoid but no turnover of starter. I presumed the multiple
> starts had drained the battery and after a push start made it home (10
> miles) without problems. One attempt at restart in the garage again failed
> with clunk from solenoid but no starter turnover.
>
> This evening I go down to the garage to have a proper look. The car is dead
> - no lights, no fuel pump, no ignition light. I sit thinking for a few
> seconds. Try the ignition key again and on come lights and clickclick fuel
> pump. I then try the starter. A single clunk and once again all the
> electrics die - and this time they don't come back.
>
> I'm suspecting a bad connection somewhere. Does this sound likely? And if
> so, where's a good place to start looking?
>
> TIA
> Tom Banks
> '64 BJ8
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 18:03:13 -0500
Subject: !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well, sorry to bomb Lists, but since Moss Motoring AND (NAMGBR) The Driver
have come out with WRONG location for the event (Des Plaines), the following
IS correct (and "link" to BCU is provided!). Just "might" make the 1000
mark!!!
******************************
British Car Union presents
BRITISH CAR FESTIVAL
September 9, 2001
Moraine Valley Community College
Palos Hills, Illinois
(Chicago Suburb)
http://www.qth.com/bcu/
Regards............
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 19:19:46 EDT
Subject: Re: leaf spring recommendations and/or suggestions
Roger.
a while back I had to repair or repair my leaf springs. The recommendarions
I got back from the list seemed overwhelmingly in favor of finding a
reputable spring rebuilder and rework the originals. I had a completely
broken leaf and they were able to redo it comletely. I installed it on the
car and am very pleased with it!
Larry wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 17:00:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healeys With AC
I saw a number of Big Healeys at California Healey Week in Bakersfield
with air conditioning installed. The nicest setup was with the thick
steel generator bracket/front tappet cover removed and modified to mount
a rotary compressor at the bottom with an alternator replacing the
generator at the top. Looked like the factory designed it . . . and one
owner said the combined weight of the rotary compressor (Sanden type)
and the alternator were a few pounds less than the old generator was by
itself.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 18:02:29 -0700
Subject: reprise: Re: shut pillar gusset question - rephrase/retry
Thank you, each of the many who replied and answered my question.
I have tried to thank each one privately.
For the Archives: it would appear that I have found one thing about
Healeys upon which there is 100% agreement: the location and
placement of the shut pillar gusset! It goes against the back of the
shut pillar and along the rocker panel, parallel to the dogleg. It is
welded to the shut pillar flange on the side of the triangle that has
no flange on it, and it is welded to the rocker panel, close to the
outside edge of the rocker. The flanges on the triangle are bent
toward the centerline of the car. Perry Small added that one could
drill a few holes in both the shut pillar flange and the flange on the
triange that contacted the rocker. Then a MIG welder can plug weld
the holes.
I found that getting to the holes on the triangle flange with a MIG
welding torch was a bit of a challenge, but that gusset will never
come loose :-) Maybe this spot is one where running a couple of
inches of flux core wire and no shielding cup would be a good idea. I
have some of that stuff somewhere.
-Roland
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 21:11:03 EDT
Subject: Re: leaf spring recommendations and/or suggestions
In a message dated 9/4/01 12:40:03 PM, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<< roger
when you get ready to replace your 165's, go to 175x15 michelin ( available
from british wire wheel, coker tire or hendrix wire wheel ) >>
just be careful with the Michelins when driving fast on wet pavement. The
compound used in these vintage reproductions is an older, harder material
than used in modern tires, and the tread pattern doesn't do as effective a
job of squeegeeing the water out. The net result is that the Michelins are
more likely to allow the rear end to slide out on slippery wet pavement than
is true of the Dunlops.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 21:17:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Starter kills electrics
In a message dated 9/4/01 1:36:10 PM, TBanks@LEVI.com writes:
<< This evening I go down to the garage to have a proper look. The car is
dead
- no lights, no fuel pump, no ignition light. I sit thinking for a few
seconds. Try the ignition key again and on come lights and clickclick fuel
pump. I then try the starter. A single clunk and once again all the
electrics die - and this time they don't come back.
I'm suspecting a bad connection somewhere. Does this sound likely? And if
so, where's a good place to start looking?
>>
I've got exactly the same problem (the fact that it's on a Jaguar Mk2 is
irrelevant, since their wiring diagrams look remarkably like the Healey). I
took it one step further (sort of) and used a screw-driver to bridge the
starter solenoid terminals, thinking that maybe the problem was with the
solenoid. No luck -- get a spark when the terminals are bridged, but no
starter action. What about the possibility that the starter is draining the
system?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 21:20:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Starter kills electrics
In a message dated 9/4/01 2:37:32 PM, bobt@net66.com writes:
<<
Try the battery connections first. >>
Tried that -- got 13 volts at the battery cable to starter solenoid terminal.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Bridger" <RBridger01 at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 21:26:26 -0400
Subject: Starter kills electrics
Tom,
Take a volt meter and check the voltage in and out of your voltage regulator.
You may be in for a surprise.
Bob
BJ 7 & BJ 8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Bridger" <RBridger01 at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 21:32:45 -0400
Subject: Healeys With AC
Can we get a little more info on the Bakersfield AC?
Thanks,
Bob
BJ 8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Wright" <duntov1 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 20:38:41 -0500
Subject: Fw: road racing
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Wright
To: modifiedhealeys@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 5:52 PM
Subject: road racing
I got to finally test my latest setup with Zora today.
THE POSI IS AWESOME! II can now blast out of corners and use the throttle to
control the over/ under steer of the car. With the AVS Intermediates, tube
shocks, front and rear adjustable swaybars, I was able to go out and run hot
laps, and run with the mod Boxters, turbo RX7"s, etc. The problem is no longer
the car, I now have the biggest challenge of all: ME! With the Porterfield
Carbon Kevlar pads and shoes, I could charge deep in the turns, the car would
turn in quickly, and the rear end would stay where the throttle told it to. If
the rear started drifting out, I could give it some gas, weight load the back
and push the car out of the corner-WHAT A BLAST! Can't wait to go again.
My only design flaw I see thru retrospect is I wish I had used 16" wheels so I
could by GOOD tires. The AVS are 10+ year old technology, and Lord knows I
have plenty of that!
Don't ever forget, "A Racer's best friend is his TIRES!"
I'm ready for the TRIATHLON! Bring it on baby!
Rich W
I went to: www.motorsportranch.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 21:44:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey's with AC
Call Paul Tsikuris @ Tsikuris Classics in Lakeland, FL, 863-858-7981. He has
installed a couple AC units in 3000's (has one in his shop now) and I'm sure
he would be pleased to answer your questions. Paul was a machinist by trade
before starting his restoration business (now 20+/- years doing Healeys).
The AC installation in his shop currently looks like a 90's aftermarket kit
with the little vents just under the dash and the compressor and hoses that
look like a factory installation under the bonnet. He engineered his own
engine brackets and pulley arrangements too. Very slick! He is restoring a
BJ8 for me currently and being a Floridian, I even considered AC but finally
decided that it was overkill on the restoration. Don't get me wrong, I'm not
a purist, I just felt it wouldn't look right on the car. I'm doing several
of the other "nifty" modifications as it is (Toyota 5-speed, passenger cabin
fresh air vent, electric engine fan, alternator, etc.). I guess I'll just
drive my Chevrolet during the Summer doldrums and the Healey during the
somewhat cooler Fall & Spring months.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
> I was talking to a man the other day that said the last
> I was wondering if anyone on the list has installed an aftermarket AC
> into their Healey. I am fixing to purchase a Healey (as soon as I find
> the right one) and would be interested in installing an aftermarket air
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 20:57:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Starter kills electrics
Gary,
Check your battery voltage under load, turn the lights on. I am betting
that you both have either a bad battery cable, bad ground strap or most
likely a dead cell in your battery. If the voltage is less than 12 volts
you need a new battery or at least a good charge. Batteries have a higher
surface voltage that will make the voltage look normal with no load. Summer
kills them faster than winter...
Mark
Nashville
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: Starter kills electrics
:
: In a message dated 9/4/01 2:37:32 PM, bobt@net66.com writes:
:
: <<
: Try the battery connections first. >>
:
: Tried that -- got 13 volts at the battery cable to starter solenoid
terminal.
: Cheers
: Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Allan Casavant" <allancas at utinet.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 20:22:37 -0400
Subject: rebuilding 100M engine
Hello I just pulled my 100M engine and about to rebuild it. Any suggestions
about the rear seal and any other items that I might do while its apart. I
was told to use 3000 valves.
Thanks
Allan Casavant
100M/Silverstone
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 23:29:15 -0400
Subject: BJ8 on ebay
Listers,
There is a BJ8 up for sale on ebay. The blurb says 349th to last. Shouldn't
it have octagon knockoffs?
Also, aren't the turn signal and running lights in front reversed?
Just curious
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 20:36:42 -0700
Subject: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
Dear Message Board -
I just took ownership of a 1961 3000 BT7 that my Dad purchased from the
original owner in 1975. In 1991 my Dad had the motor completely rebuilt in
Denver Colorado by a Healey guy that soon there after moved due to a
divorce. The unfortunate result of having the motor rebuilt is that the
rebuilder failed to replace the engine number to the block after repainting
it Healey Green. My Dad is POSITIVE that is the original engine. Is there
anything I can do to have a number plate remade for the car? I just got my
BMIHT certificate showing the number but feel badly that the badge isn't
adorning the block where it should be. If anyone has any advice I would
really appreciate it.
Matt-
P.S. Oh and I did try to locate the original owner but only have the name
(Bobbie Lee) and he isn't one of the many Bobbie Lee's still living in
Texas, or more specifically Austin, where my Dad bought the car in '75. I
called them all! Including surrounding cities. I was thinking maybe he
could write a note verifying the engine's authenticity.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 13:46:12 +1000
Subject: RE: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
G'day
In this part of the world the local licensing people wont even accept the
original aluminium engine number plate so we stamp the six cylinder blocks
on the flat surface just behind the distributor extension.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Wilson [mailto:mwilson7@san.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 1:37 PM
To: Healey Chat Group
Subject: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
Dear Message Board -
I just took ownership of a 1961 3000 BT7 that my Dad purchased from the
original owner in 1975. In 1991 my Dad had the motor completely rebuilt in
Denver Colorado by a Healey guy that soon there after moved due to a
divorce. The unfortunate result of having the motor rebuilt is that the
rebuilder failed to replace the engine number to the block after repainting
it Healey Green. My Dad is POSITIVE that is the original engine. Is there
anything I can do to have a number plate remade for the car? I just got my
BMIHT certificate showing the number but feel badly that the badge isn't
adorning the block where it should be. If anyone has any advice I would
really appreciate it.
Matt-
P.S. Oh and I did try to locate the original owner but only have the name
(Bobbie Lee) and he isn't one of the many Bobbie Lee's still living in
Texas, or more specifically Austin, where my Dad bought the car in '75. I
called them all! Including surrounding cities. I was thinking maybe he
could write a note verifying the engine's authenticity.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 21:15:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
Patrick -
If I was a licensing authority, I'd also be suspicious
of any Aussie submitting papers w/ "BN3" written on
it.
Just one question - why is it the land of Oz is so
full of the strange bits and pieces of Healey
automotive history? This question may seem to be
rhetorical, but an any attempt at an answer would be
appreciated.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
wrote:
>
> G'day
>
> In this part of the world the local licensing people
> wont even accept the
> original aluminium engine number plate so we stamp
> the six cylinder blocks
> on the flat surface just behind the distributor
> extension.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Doug Ingram" <dougi at home.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 21:51:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
Matt:
Contact Todd Clarke of Clarke Spares & Restorations in Doylestown PA Tel:
215-348-0595 Fax: 215-348-4160. He is an MGA specialist, but has the tooling
to reproduce accurate number plates for BMS A, B, and C series engines. He
does require some documentation - I sent copies of my vehicle registration
and the BMIHT certificate.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
1958 Sprite (AN5L/636)
1963 Sprite Mk II project (HAN7L/30003)
1987 Jaguar XJ6 VDP
and looking for just the right BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Wilson <mwilson7@san.rr.com>
To: Healey Chat Group <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 8:36 PM
Subject: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
>
> Dear Message Board -
> I just took ownership of a 1961 3000 BT7 that my Dad purchased from the
> original owner in 1975. In 1991 my Dad had the motor completely rebuilt
in
> Denver Colorado by a Healey guy that soon there after moved due to a
> divorce. The unfortunate result of having the motor rebuilt is that the
> rebuilder failed to replace the engine number to the block after
repainting
> it Healey Green. My Dad is POSITIVE that is the original engine. Is
there
> anything I can do to have a number plate remade for the car? I just got
my
> BMIHT certificate showing the number but feel badly that the badge isn't
> adorning the block where it should be. If anyone has any advice I would
> really appreciate it.
> Matt-
> P.S. Oh and I did try to locate the original owner but only have the name
> (Bobbie Lee) and he isn't one of the many Bobbie Lee's still living in
> Texas, or more specifically Austin, where my Dad bought the car in '75. I
> called them all! Including surrounding cities. I was thinking maybe he
> could write a note verifying the engine's authenticity.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 22:45:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Easy Driving
Scott:
You are the problem. And I mean others like you.
Keeping your car in the garage deprives me of the experience that you had last
weekend.
Now finish that car and start driving!
Ron Rader
"J. Scott Morris" wrote:
> But then we met spotted a gorgeous shinny aluminum bodied Healey 100 on
> the Niagara Parkway drive. It made our - well - my day. There was
> Blair Harber booting along in his #14 pre-production AHX-14.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 22:47:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys With AC
I think this was Jim Albeck's car. (bjate@pacbell.net)
Ron Rader
Pete Cowper wrote:
> I saw a number of Big Healeys at California Healey Week in Bakersfield
> with air conditioning installed. The nicest setup was with the thick
> steel generator bracket/front tappet cover removed and modified to mount
> a rotary compressor at the bottom with an alternator replacing the
> generator at the top.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 23:04:28 -0700
Subject: CART Finale - No Healey Content
Due to a scheduling problem, I am forced to sell four (4) of my season
tickets to the Nov. 4th CART race in Fontana, Ca. The seats are in
the lower section, and ON THE START/FINISH LINE. Anyone interested,
please contact me off the list. Thanks.
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 16:26:52 +1000
Subject: RE: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
G'day Alan
That's an interesting question and one that I have turned my mind to a few
times over the years.
I suspect that it has its origins in the British Government edict of the
1950s to Export or Perish. Australia tuned out to be one of the largest
export markets for the whole range of British Cars. Being part of the
British Commonwealth the Australian import laws certainly favoured importing
cars from the UK and made it difficult but not impossible to bring them in
from the US. BMC and other manufacturers also built large assembly plants in
this country.
This situation continued until the 1960/70s with Australia being the largest
export market in the world for quite a number of English cars like the
Triumph Stag.
Despite this only 17 Austin-Healey 3000s were ever imported new into
Australia. The 100 and 100/6 were imported by BMC through distributors and
the 3000 only on special order. My estimations is that there are just over
1000 Austin-Healeys in Australia and 16 Healeys.
A total of 5 100S came here when new, which is quite a few when you consider
our sparse population in the 1950s.
However there has always been a wide appreciation of the marque since the
late 1960s when the clubs started to form. As far as I can work out it was
Rob Harrison who was first when he brought the 1970 Le Mans XR37 into the
country in 1971. But then I suspect that it is down to Australians like Joe
Jarrick (still a 100S owner) and Glyn Lambert (who died last year) who
started the ball rolling. They travelled to the UK in 1973 and started to
send cars back here from all over Europe. Various 100Ss, Rally Cars, 4000
and my car all came here courteous of Joe and Glyn's exploits.
Then came people like Steve Pike and the Rowland Brothers who have also
imported many production and rare cars. There have been many individual
imports like Alan Jones' 100S (now back in the US) and Joe Armour's 1965
Sebring 3000 and 68 Le Mans Sprite.
I am also afraid to say that we in Australia were very much aware of the
marque history way before the majority of others, with some notable
exceptions like Arthur Carter in the UK. I never ceases to amaze me how we
managed to get some many wonderful and rare cars out past the English noses
in the early 1970s. I don't know if would happen now especially considering
the parlous condition of the Australian dollar.
We have indeed been fortunate.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon (originally imported into New Zealand, I bought it
in 1987)
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (originally sold to a friend of the Healey
family to assist the company's cash flow, I bought it in 1974)
ps Never had any problem licensing the BN3 as I have enough certification to
fill a book.
-----Original Message-----
From: The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers
[mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 2:15 PM
To: Quinn, Patrick; 'Matt Wilson'; Healey Chat Group
Subject: RE: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
Patrick -
If I was a licensing authority, I'd also be suspicious
of any Aussie submitting papers w/ "BN3" written on
it.
Just one question - why is it the land of Oz is so
full of the strange bits and pieces of Healey
automotive history? This question may seem to be
rhetorical, but an any attempt at an answer would be
appreciated.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
wrote:
>
> G'day
>
> In this part of the world the local licensing people
> wont even accept the
> original aluminium engine number plate so we stamp
> the six cylinder blocks
> on the flat surface just behind the distributor
> extension.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Raymond Feehan" <feehanr at home.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 01:33:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
If he's like most guys after their ex-wives are through with them, he's
probably homeless. RayfixitanddrriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7@san.rr.com>
To: "Healey Chat Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 9:36 PM
Subject: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
>
> Dear Message Board -
> I just took ownership of a 1961 3000 BT7 that my Dad purchased from the
> original owner in 1975. In 1991 my Dad had the motor completely rebuilt
in
> Denver Colorado by a Healey guy that soon there after moved due to a
> divorce. The unfortunate result of having the motor rebuilt is that the
> rebuilder failed to replace the engine number to the block after
repainting
> it Healey Green. My Dad is POSITIVE that is the original engine. Is
there
> anything I can do to have a number plate remade for the car? I just got
my
> BMIHT certificate showing the number but feel badly that the badge isn't
> adorning the block where it should be. If anyone has any advice I would
> really appreciate it.
> Matt-
> P.S. Oh and I did try to locate the original owner but only have the name
> (Bobbie Lee) and he isn't one of the many Bobbie Lee's still living in
> Texas, or more specifically Austin, where my Dad bought the car in '75. I
> called them all! Including surrounding cities. I was thinking maybe he
> could write a note verifying the engine's authenticity.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 22:29:59 -0400
Subject: re alum door panel corrosion
Herman,
What I would do is this,
1. If all corrosion isnt out try beadblasting on low press. @ 35 lbs.
if not avail. try using an alum cleaner (not the etch) PPG has it its
cheap.
using a wire brush try to get all corr out ( warning: make sure you
dont get
solution on the shown side as some brands may discolor the finished
alum.)
2. Protect backsides with 2wet coats of PPG DP epoxy primer
Can be mixed (primer/catalyst) and applied with a sponge type brush
if spray
gun not avail.
Carroll Top Down Restorations
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 08:18:45 EDT
Subject: speedometer adjustment?
Hi Listers:
Is there a way to adjust the speedometer on my BJ8? It is reading about 10%
too high. When I got the car, it wasn't working because the angle drive was
shot, so I got a new one from Moss. Are there different gear ratios in the
angle drives that I'm not aware of?
All input appreciated.
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 09:07:14 -0500
Subject: Re: speedometer adjustment?
Your speedo may need a calibration, but the difference may be due to
tire size. A larger of smaller tire than original would affect the
reading. I'm using a 175/15, which is quite close to original. One
way of testing is to measure out a distance of 52' 9.5". Remove the
cable from the back of the speedo and count the number of revolutions
the inner cable makes when the car travels the measured distance. I
believe that 10 revs is the number you are looking for. Mine turned
9.75 times and the man who rebuilt my unit said that it was very
close and didn't require a change of gears.
Hope this helps.
Herman
>Hi Listers:
>
>Is there a way to adjust the speedometer on my BJ8? It is reading about 10%
>too high. When I got the car, it wasn't working because the angle drive was
>shot, so I got a new one from Moss. Are there different gear ratios in the
>angle drives that I'm not aware of?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 07:13:44 -0600
Subject: Re: reprise: Re: shut pillar gusset question - rephrase/retry
Roland,
When ever I replace the shut pillars, I will frequently add an addition
gusset about midway on the shut pillar for additional strength. Not concours
but..........
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 7:02 PM
Subject: reprise: Re: shut pillar gusset question - rephrase/retry
>
> Thank you, each of the many who replied and answered my question.
> I have tried to thank each one privately.
>
> For the Archives: it would appear that I have found one thing about
> Healeys upon which there is 100% agreement: the location and
> placement of the shut pillar gusset! It goes against the back of the
> shut pillar and along the rocker panel, parallel to the dogleg. It is
> welded to the shut pillar flange on the side of the triangle that has
> no flange on it, and it is welded to the rocker panel, close to the
> outside edge of the rocker. The flanges on the triangle are bent
> toward the centerline of the car. Perry Small added that one could
> drill a few holes in both the shut pillar flange and the flange on the
> triange that contacted the rocker. Then a MIG welder can plug weld
> the holes.
>
> I found that getting to the holes on the triangle flange with a MIG
> welding torch was a bit of a challenge, but that gusset will never
> come loose :-) Maybe this spot is one where running a couple of
> inches of flux core wire and no shielding cup would be a good idea. I
> have some of that stuff somewhere.
>
> -Roland
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 09:38:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
Matt,
Contact Todd Clarke of Clarke's Spares (in Pennsylvania, I believe). He
makes exact duplicates of the engine tags for MGs and Austin Healeys. He's
made several for me, and they are identical to the originals. Cost is
around $20.
Bob
>
>Dear Message Board -
>I just took ownership of a 1961 3000 BT7 that my Dad purchased from the
>original owner in 1975. In 1991 my Dad had the motor completely rebuilt in
>Denver Colorado by a Healey guy that soon there after moved due to a
>divorce. The unfortunate result of having the motor rebuilt is that the
>rebuilder failed to replace the engine number to the block after repainting
>it Healey Green. My Dad is POSITIVE that is the original engine. Is there
>anything I can do to have a number plate remade for the car? I just got my
>BMIHT certificate showing the number but feel badly that the badge isn't
>adorning the block where it should be. If anyone has any advice I would
>really appreciate it.
>Matt-
>P.S. Oh and I did try to locate the original owner but only have the name
>(Bobbie Lee) and he isn't one of the many Bobbie Lee's still living in
>Texas, or more specifically Austin, where my Dad bought the car in '75. I
>called them all! Including surrounding cities. I was thinking maybe he
>could write a note verifying the engine's authenticity.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 09:18:39 -0500
Subject: Engine Tags
Hey Gang:
I still have the original engine tag for my BN7 but the mechanic who rebuilt
the engine took it off so he could acid dip the block. Question: What's
the best way to put it back on????
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 09:26:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine Tags
<<Question: What's
the best way to put it back on????>>
Two screw rivits, Don.
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 07:37:55 -0700
Subject: Air Conditioning
this is an old message for the newbies
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: BGAHC@aol.com [mailto:BGAHC@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 1999 7:34 PM
To: Healybj8@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Air Conditioning/ (was Cockpit Heat)
Healybj8@aol.com writes:
> I have heard that there were a
> few big Healeys fitted with AC as original. Is this true or myth?
It's true. I've seen one and remember an article about it. The AHUSA has a
great feature on their web site offering an index to Tech articles (how come
the AHCA can't do this??) and I looked it up from May 1981.
Quick summation: Only produced for the BJ8 by BMC Coolaire in Miami FL. $385
for the kit. Fred Draper reported they were only an experiment. Custom
molded
evaporator fit behind standard BJ8 console with the speaker grill removed
and
a vent installed instead. Controls were fitted on center of dash above
switch
plate and below heater control. Compressor was located on Carburetor side of
engine with modifications to fender well and brake reservoir. Kit included
all new pulleys.
If Reid will grant permission I will scan the article and put it on my web
site.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4 Visit my <A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/BGAHC/index.html";>Bluegrass
Austin-Healey Club
</A>
web site at http://members.aol.com/BGAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 08:06:05 -0700
Subject: AC archives
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.cgi?ln=healeys&mid=&sp=&q=AC+or+air+condi
tioning&b=1&s=1&o=0&x=34&y=5
Guys,
You can review scores of old messages on AC via listquest.com. Anything is
possible in our quest for cool.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 11:06:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Tags
Don,
There are special rivets available to replace the tag from British Car
Specialists. Contact Dave Nock and he can fix you up.
www.britishcarspecialists.com
DaveD.
'59 BT 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 11:29:38 EDT
Subject: Re: rebuilding 100M engine
This is a very open question. It all depends on what you want when you
are finished? Do you want it stock or do you want some performance? If you
want more performance how much do you want?
There are several ways to go internal of the engine. I would recomend a
new performance cam rather than a reground cam that is trying to match the M
grind. A rear crank seal is a must and also there is a flex hose available
that is a must to the oil pump. On the cylinder head if you are after a
smoother running engine with more power install a aluuminium cylinder head
and a lightened flywheel.
If you are going to use the oe head then there is not much that you can
do to it to increase performance other than some polishing of the ports. I
would use bronze guides and hard valve seats and be sure and have the head
maged and pressure tested for any cracks. Look closly around the seats and
inside the ports for any seapage.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 08:41:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: test
test
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 13:13:24 EDT
Subject: Ivory White
Hi,
I need to purchase some Ivory White paint (or close match) for my Healey
project. I am using PPG, and was wondering if any of you might have some
suggestions. I was planning to use the color sample provided in my Guide to
Historic Colors Vintage Color Register I purchased from Donald Pikovnik for a
match, but last I heard, there was a discrepancy. Has this been resolved?
Any help would be most appreciated.
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 13:21:25 EDT
Subject: Two-Tone Painting
Hi,
I am planning to go with a two-tone color scheme on my 100-6 and was wondering
if anyone on the list knows of a decent "how-to" article that has been written
on the subject, or anyone on this list that could offer advice?
Thanks,
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From phil at lesliecompanies.com (Phillip W. Leslie)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 13:39:32 -0500
Subject: Positive/Negative Ground Fuel Pumps
I'm a new Healey owner and not familiar with positive/negative ground
terminology. How do I tell the difference?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 10:57:59 -0700
Subject: two tone painting
I am planning to go with a two-tone color scheme on my 100-6 and was
wondering if anyone on the list knows of a decent "how-to" article that has
been written on the subject, or anyone on this list that could offer advice?
Thanks,
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
I used the color combo of OEW (Olde English White) over Reno Red coves (not
Colorado Red). I love the combination. The restoration book says to paint
the cove up to the first break in the door/ fender panel from the ground.
It is easier to paint straight and looks neater. It's also the original
detail. The Reno red was a standard on older 50's Healey's but I put it on
my '67 3000 because the Colorado was too orange looking for my taste. Just
my 2c.
dp
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TBanks at LEVI.com
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 12:18:13 -0700
Subject: FW: Starter kills electrics
Thanks to all those who offered advice. The answer was, of course, the most
obvious. Recharged the battery overnight and cleaned battery terminals.
Had to give the starter a crack with a hammer and then she fired up first
time!
Measured voltage across battery with noload (12.4V), under load (lights on)
(12.4V) and with engine idling (14.2V), so everything seems okay there.
Rgds,
Tom Banks
'64 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TBanks at LEVI.com
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 12:18:14 -0700
Subject: Loose rear wheels
I failed my recent Belgian annual inspection on two counts - CO emission (no
surprise, carbs haven't been tuned) and loose rear wheels (big surprise!).
Basically when the rear end is jacked up with the hand/parking brake on,
both rear wheels can be rotated back and forth (about 1/4 inch at rims?)
while the brake drum doesn't move. I'm going to take the rears off to have
a look but what should I be looking for? The splines are, I believe, in
good condition.
TIA
Tom Banks
'64 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From William Craig <William.Craig at PWGSC.GC.CA>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 16:01:22 -0400
Subject: FW: Delivery failure
> -----Original Message-----
> From: postmaster@pluto.nresults2.com [SMTP:postmaster@pluto.nresults2.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 3:50 PM
> To: William.Craig@PWGSC.GC.CA
> Subject: Delivery failure
>
> Your message has encountered delivery problems
> to local user healeys.
> (Originally addressed to healeys@autox.net)
>
> User not known
>
> Your message reads (in part):
>
> Received: from mh-ncr-013.ncr.pwgsc.gc.ca (unverified [198.103.167.50]) by
> pluto.nresults2.com
> (EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id <B0000077134@pluto.nresults2.com>;
> Wed, 05 Sep 2001 14:48:54 -0500
> Received: by mh-ncr-013.ncr.pwgsc.gc.ca with Internet Mail Service
> (5.5.2653.19)
> id <RL454ZXS>; Wed, 5 Sep 2001 15:47:59 -0400
> Message-ID:
> <00C690B418F2D311839508002BC3F255DA50B4@mb-ncr-010.ncr.pwgsc.gc.ca>
> From: William Craig <William.Craig@PWGSC.GC.CA>
> To: "'healeys@autox.net'" <healeys@autox.net>
> Subject: oil pressure gage
> Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 15:47:28 -0400
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2653.19)
> Content-Type: text/plain
>
> Is there a way to clean out an oil pressure gage?. I think mine has some
> dirty oil in it. When I start the car the pressure goes up to 35 to 40 psi
> then as I drive for a while it drops to 5 to 10 psi. About 3 months ago I
> had unknowingly let the oil get very dirty (problems with a leaky valve
> guide i think) and finally changed it. I cleaned out the copper oil line
> however I think there must have been some residue left in the gage. I am
> hoping this is the problem. I will check this first - Can I clean out the
> gage by spraying in some de gunking fluid any suggestions?? I have
> the head off at the moment as well and am beginning to work on the valve
> problem.
bud craig BN6
Ottawa, Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 16:08:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
No, I don't know where it's at anymore, but I noticed someone else posted
his address and phone on an earlier response to this question today on the
Healey List (I already deleted it, though). Maybe you still have it on your
"in box"?
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Dean <dht@erols.com>
To: Wiedemeyer <boxweed@thebest.net>
Date: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
>Bob
> Do you have an address or a phone number. I'm in the same predicament
>
>Dean
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed@thebest.net>
>To: "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7@san.rr.com>
>Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 10:38 AM
>Subject: Re: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
>
>
>>
>> Matt,
>>
>> Contact Todd Clarke of Clarke's Spares (in Pennsylvania, I believe). He
>> makes exact duplicates of the engine tags for MGs and Austin Healeys.
>He's
>> made several for me, and they are identical to the originals. Cost is
>> around $20.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> >
>> >Dear Message Board -
>> >I just took ownership of a 1961 3000 BT7 that my Dad purchased from the
>> >original owner in 1975. In 1991 my Dad had the motor completely rebuilt
>in
>> >Denver Colorado by a Healey guy that soon there after moved due to a
>> >divorce. The unfortunate result of having the motor rebuilt is that the
>> >rebuilder failed to replace the engine number to the block after
>repainting
>> >it Healey Green. My Dad is POSITIVE that is the original engine. Is
>there
>> >anything I can do to have a number plate remade for the car? I just got
>my
>> >BMIHT certificate showing the number but feel badly that the badge isn't
>> >adorning the block where it should be. If anyone has any advice I would
>> >really appreciate it.
>> >Matt-
>> >P.S. Oh and I did try to locate the original owner but only have the
name
>> >(Bobbie Lee) and he isn't one of the many Bobbie Lee's still living in
>> >Texas, or more specifically Austin, where my Dad bought the car in '75.
>I
>> >called them all! Including surrounding cities. I was thinking maybe he
>> >could write a note verifying the engine's authenticity.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 14:33:18 -0600
Subject: RE: Loose rear wheels
Hi,
If the wheels move and the drums don't then the only possibilities I can
think of are worn splines or oval bolt holes in the hubs (unlikely).
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: TBanks@LEVI.com [mailto:TBanks@LEVI.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 12:18 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Loose rear wheels
>>Basically when the rear end is jacked up with the hand/parking brake on,
both rear wheels can be rotated back and forth (about 1/4 inch at rims?)
while the brake drum doesn't move. I'm going to take the rears off to have
a look but what should I be looking for? The splines are, I believe, in
good condition.<<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 16:38:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Positive/Negative Ground Fuel Pumps
In a message dated 9/5/01 11:41:17 AM, phil@lesliecompanies.com writes:
<<
I'm a new Healey owner and not familiar with positive/negative ground
terminology. How do I tell the difference? >>
Just take a look at your battery. If the negative post is connected to the
battery cut-off switch, then you're "negative ground" and some previous owner
has converted you so that modern accessories could be used. If the positive
post is connected to the battery cut-off switch, the you're "Positive Earth"
as the cars were originally manufactured.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 13:36:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
Here is the info from an old post, not sure if still valid:
Clarke Spares & Restorations
90 W. Swamp Rd.
Doylestown, PA 18901
215-348-0595
------------------------
At 01:08 PM 9/5/2001, you wrote:
>No, I don't know where it's at anymore, but I noticed someone else posted
>his address and phone on an earlier response to this question today on the
>Healey List (I already deleted it, though). Maybe you still have it on your
>"in box"?
>
>Bob
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Dean <dht@erols.com>
>To: Wiedemeyer <boxweed@thebest.net>
>Date: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 11:23 AM
>Subject: Re: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
>
>
> >Bob
> > Do you have an address or a phone number. I'm in the same predicament
> >
> >Dean
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed@thebest.net>
> >To: "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7@san.rr.com>
> >Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 10:38 AM
> >Subject: Re: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Matt,
> >>
> >> Contact Todd Clarke of Clarke's Spares (in Pennsylvania, I believe). He
> >> makes exact duplicates of the engine tags for MGs and Austin Healeys.
> >He's
> >> made several for me, and they are identical to the originals. Cost is
> >> around $20.
> >>
> >> Bob
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> >Dear Message Board -
> >> >I just took ownership of a 1961 3000 BT7 that my Dad purchased from the
> >> >original owner in 1975. In 1991 my Dad had the motor completely rebuilt
> >in
> >> >Denver Colorado by a Healey guy that soon there after moved due to a
> >> >divorce. The unfortunate result of having the motor rebuilt is that the
> >> >rebuilder failed to replace the engine number to the block after
> >repainting
> >> >it Healey Green. My Dad is POSITIVE that is the original engine. Is
> >there
> >> >anything I can do to have a number plate remade for the car? I just got
> >my
> >> >BMIHT certificate showing the number but feel badly that the badge isn't
> >> >adorning the block where it should be. If anyone has any advice I would
> >> >really appreciate it.
> >> >Matt-
> >> >P.S. Oh and I did try to locate the original owner but only have the
>name
> >> >(Bobbie Lee) and he isn't one of the many Bobbie Lee's still living in
> >> >Texas, or more specifically Austin, where my Dad bought the car in '75.
> >I
> >> >called them all! Including surrounding cities. I was thinking maybe he
> >> >could write a note verifying the engine's authenticity.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 16:42:02 EDT
Subject: Re: two tone painting
In a message dated 9/5/01 11:51:42 AM, pattend@nortelnetworks.com writes:
<< The restoration book says to paint
the cove up to the first break in the door/ fender panel from the ground.
It is easier to paint straight and looks neater. >>
Originally, the cars were painted over everything in body color, then the
edge of the cove was masked and the second color was shot (often by the
dealer). However, most body/paint experts today would recommend painting the
fenders and doors off the car and shooting the lower color first so that the
"edge" left when the masking tape is removed was on the upper color.
However, if the doors are painted off the car, make sure the paint guy
doesn't paint the insides of the doors with the second color.
Also, note that there is no second color painted on the rear shroud
behind/under the bumper.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 17:29:22 EDT
Subject: Auction Report.....
Hi all,
I attended the Kruse/eBay auction in Auburn, Indiana this past Friday, mostly
just to look at all the cars.
What better thing is there to do while playing hookey from work, family,
etc....! Acres upon acres of cars from A to Z, most to be auctioned and some
for sale by owner in the "back forty". As far as Healeys go, I watched one
very nice BN7 driver (black w/ red interior) sell on the block for $27k, and a
very nice Golden Beige BJ8 driver sell in the "back forty" for $38k. There
were a handful of others, but I wasn't able to spend the entire weekend there.
I was impressed with the selling prices of both of these cars. First because
Friday attendance is not high compared with the rest of the weekend, and
second, because British car prices in general tend to be rather sluggish at
this event. Good for the buyer! The Austin-Healey marque continue's to be a
strong contender among the collector cars.
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 17:50:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Loose rear wheels
Or loose nuts on the hubs, or loose knock-offs. Or all your spokes are
loose (very unlikely, but I have seen it happen).
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: <TBanks@LEVI.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 4:33 PM
Subject: RE: Loose rear wheels
>
> Hi,
>
> If the wheels move and the drums don't then the only possibilities I can
> think of are worn splines or oval bolt holes in the hubs (unlikely).
>
> Regards,
> Adnan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TBanks@LEVI.com [mailto:TBanks@LEVI.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 12:18 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Loose rear wheels
>
> >>Basically when the rear end is jacked up with the hand/parking brake on,
> both rear wheels can be rotated back and forth (about 1/4 inch at rims?)
> while the brake drum doesn't move. I'm going to take the rears off to
have
> a look but what should I be looking for? The splines are, I believe, in
> good condition.<<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 15:55:06 -0700
Subject: Vintage Air web site
Sorry if I gave the wrong web site address. Here is the correct one.
http://www.vintageair.com/
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 18:08:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Delivery failure
<<any suggestions?? I have
> the head off at the moment as well and am beginning to work on the valve
> problem.
bud craig BN6
Ottawa, Canada
>>
Yep, Bud.
FIRST, join SOAHCA!!!
You are SURRONDED by Healey Owners!!!!
Second, get the "address to send to" right!!
Third, PRINT and READ and SAVE directions that came with "subscruption".
Welcome to THE List!!
Regards...........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA
Member. AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
www.justbrits.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 21:46:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Rocker Rebuild
If you remember the "what's this noise" thread a year
ago, well I finally got around to breaking down the
engine. The problem is a broken compression ring that
worked its way on to the top of the piston. The noise
I was hearing was the compression ring tapping the
head. Yikes!! Why it went away when it warmed up is
beyond me.
I am planning for a complete rebuild.
I recall a service for rebuilding the rocker shaft
that was discussed last year. I can't locate the
information. I would be most appreciative as I had
thought the price was quite reasonable.
Also any advise/recommendations on reprofiling the cam
would also be appreciated. I'm thinking that the
MKIII grind is best, but I do not plan to upgrade to
the 2" carbs.
Thanks
Dean
BN7
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 12:38:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Posting Problems?
Hi - I have tried to post this to the Healey board a
few times over that pas few days and it appears not to
appear. The address I am using is
<healeys@autox.team.net>. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks for your help.
Dean
------------------------------------------------
Subject: Rocker Rebuild
If you remember the "what's this noise" thread a year
ago, well I finally got around to breaking down the
engine. The problem is a broken compression ring that
worked its way on to the top of the piston. The noise
I was hearing was the compression ring tapping the
head. Yikes!! Why it went away when it warmed up is
beyond me.
I am planning for a complete rebuild.
I recall a service for rebuilding the rocker shaft
that was discussed last year. I can't locate the
information. I would be most appreciative as I had
thought the price was quite reasonable.
Also any advise/recommendations on reprofiling the cam
would also be appreciated. I'm thinking that the
MKIII grind is best, but I do not plan to upgrade to
the 2" carbs.
Thanks
Dean
BN7
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 19:57:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Rocker Rebuild
In a message dated 9/5/01 7:35:46 PM, healeybn7@yahoo.com writes:
<< recall a service for rebuilding the rocker shaft
that was discussed last year. I can't locate the
information. I would be most appreciative as I had
thought the price was quite reasonable.>>
Mailing List: Austin Healeys
Back to Index Previous Message Next MessageDate: 20-May-1999 17:56:10
From:
Subject: Rocker Arm Specialists
Listers,
A few weeks ago, Adnan posted an inquiry regarding experiences with
Rocker Arm Specialists, home of the $98 rocker shaft rebuild. For that
amount, they will do complete disassembly, straighten rocker shaft, center
grind undersize, hard chrome plate and regrind to current spec. I already
had a new rocker shaft, so I shipped my assembly with that. Turn around from
coast to coast was under2 wks. and my cost was $85 plus shipping. My unit
was returned with rockers refaced, new screws and nuts, and new bushings
installed and reamed. Installed it this weekend and the rocker arm oil
geysers have been reduced to a trickle. Overall, I'm one satisfied customer.
The company is Rocker Arm Specialists, 19841 Hirsch Court, Anderson, CA 96007
Tel. (530) 378-1075. I recall one lister stating his rocker shaft was
parkerized, rather than chrome plate, so you may want to check that out first.
No financial interest, your mileage may vary, copyright, 1999, all rights
reserved, patent pending, caveat emptor, sic semper tryrannis, no endorsement
implied,
Rick Neville
Rowley, MA
BJ7, AN5
Back to Index
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 20:23:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Auction Report.....
Scott,
What is the fee to get in, like you did, to look around at all the cars
sitting there waiting to be auctioned, or sold off the "back 40"? Can
anyone just walk in and look around if they're not registered to bid? I've
often wanted to do what you did, but was discouraged by people who have told
me that they won't let you in unless you pay the large fee to be a
registered bidder.
Thanks,
Bob
>
>Hi all,
>
>I attended the Kruse/eBay auction in Auburn, Indiana this past Friday,
mostly just to look at all the cars.
>What better thing is there to do while playing hookey from work, family,
etc....! Acres upon acres of cars from A to Z, most to be auctioned and
some for sale by owner in the "back forty". As far as Healeys go, I watched
one very nice BN7 driver (black w/ red interior) sell on the block for $27k,
and a very nice Golden Beige BJ8 driver sell in the "back forty" for $38k.
There were a handful of others, but I wasn't able to spend the entire
weekend there.
>
>I was impressed with the selling prices of both of these cars. First
because Friday attendance is not high compared with the rest of the weekend,
and second, because British car prices in general tend to be rather sluggish
at this event. Good for the buyer! The Austin-Healey marque continue's to
be a strong contender among the collector cars.
>
>Scott Helms
>Northern Indiana
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 19:42:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: rebuilding 100M engine
Allan -
Definitely seek to have the head upgraded for unleaded
fuel (valves & fig 8 seats). I'd shy away from the
aluminum heads currently available, apparently there
are some warpage issues with them (1K+ miles the head
gasket loses its seal)
I think David Nock can set you up with a rear seal for
the 100/4. He'll probably respond to you directly.
Lot's of other things you can do with the motor, just
depends on how far you want to take it.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Allan Casavant <allancas@utinet.net> wrote:
>
> Hello I just pulled my 100M engine and about to
> rebuild it. Any suggestions
> about the rear seal and any other items that I might
> do while its apart. I
> was told to use 3000 valves.
>
> Thanks
> Allan Casavant
> 100M/Silverstone
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 08:32:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Rocker Rebuild (2nd try)
If you remember the "what's this noise" thread a year
ago, well I finally got around to breaking down the
engine. The problem is a broken compression ring that
worked its way on to the top of the piston. The noise
I was hearing was the compression ring tapping the
head. Yikes!! Why it went away when it warmed up is
beyond me.
I am planning for a complete rebuild.
I recall a service for rebuilding the rocker shaft
that was discussed last year. I can't locate the
information. I would be most appreciative as I had
thought the price was quite reasonable.
Also any advise/recommendations on reprofiling the cam
would also be appreciated. I'm thinking that the
MKIII grind is best, but I do not plan to upgrade to
the 2" carbs.
Thanks
Dean
BN7
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Young <wwy at fcol.com>
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 21:23:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey's with AC
It is with interest that I have been following the
discussion about Austin Healey air conditioning.
In April of 1976, I purchased 4 ea. "new in the box"
air conditioning systems from Karp Motors in Savanna,
Ga.
These units were the Model HAC 1002 Air Conditioner for
the Austin Healey 3000 MK III as manufactured by
Coolaire Manufacturing Co. , Inc., of Miami, FL., for
$150.00 each.
I sold one to John Peters of Sports and Classics, one
to Mr. Richard Cassetta, an attorney in California, and
one to my good friend, Al (Pat) Yoas. I installed the
4th unit in my BJ8. I used for about 15 years, and
then sold it to a fellow in Miami who wanted it more
than I did. $$
I still have the bill-of-materials, installation
instructions (13 pages), operating instructions, and
the warranty card #5260 as supported by "Hambro Inc."
If anybody on the list would like a copy of these
documents, please contact me off list and I will send
them to you.
BTW, it wasn't a very effective system by today's
standards.
Bill Young
St. Johns AHC, Jacksonville, FL.
BJ8, BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 23:49:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Missing Engine Number Due to Rebuild in '91
Patrick -
Thanks for the great response... Last year I was down
in South Yarra for the F1 and just was amazed at all
the great & beautiful british racing cars down there.
Personally I think it's great that those of you in Oz
seem to take care & preserve peculiar Brittania of all
sorts. I might suggest too that with the US being a
market that rewards homogineity - it was probably much
easier to sell the strange bits and peices down under.
As a owner of a small apartment in Sydney, I too am
concerned about the weak Aussie dollar... but I don't
have a whole lot of sympathy with regards to your
waxing about the strong Oz dollar in the 80s&90s. You
see... some nasty Australian bought my entire secret
stash of good used (& low cost) Healey parts from my
local British car repair man in Walnut Creek,
California (in 1990 I think), and have had to pay the
price for mail order ever since... Maybe it's time I
head down an buy the lot back!!!! ;-)
Cheers!
Alan
'53 BN1 (@California) '66 BJ8 (@Hong Kong)
--- "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
wrote:
> G'day Alan
>
> That's an interesting question and one that I have
> turned my mind to a few
> times over the years.
>
> I suspect that it has its origins in the British
> Government edict of the
> 1950s to Export or Perish. Australia tuned out to be
> one of the largest
> export markets for the whole range of British Cars.
> Being part of the
> British Commonwealth the Australian import laws
> certainly favoured importing
> cars from the UK and made it difficult but not
> impossible to bring them in
> from the US. BMC and other manufacturers also built
> large assembly plants in
> this country.
>
> This situation continued until the 1960/70s with
> Australia being the largest
> export market in the world for quite a number of
> English cars like the
> Triumph Stag.
>
> Despite this only 17 Austin-Healey 3000s were ever
> imported new into
> Australia. The 100 and 100/6 were imported by BMC
> through distributors and
> the 3000 only on special order. My estimations is
> that there are just over
> 1000 Austin-Healeys in Australia and 16 Healeys.
>
> A total of 5 100S came here when new, which is quite
> a few when you consider
> our sparse population in the 1950s.
>
> However there has always been a wide appreciation of
> the marque since the
> late 1960s when the clubs started to form. As far as
> I can work out it was
> Rob Harrison who was first when he brought the 1970
> Le Mans XR37 into the
> country in 1971. But then I suspect that it is down
> to Australians like Joe
> Jarrick (still a 100S owner) and Glyn Lambert (who
> died last year) who
> started the ball rolling. They travelled to the UK
> in 1973 and started to
> send cars back here from all over Europe. Various
> 100Ss, Rally Cars, 4000
> and my car all came here courteous of Joe and Glyn's
> exploits.
>
> Then came people like Steve Pike and the Rowland
> Brothers who have also
> imported many production and rare cars. There have
> been many individual
> imports like Alan Jones' 100S (now back in the US)
> and Joe Armour's 1965
> Sebring 3000 and 68 Le Mans Sprite.
>
> I am also afraid to say that we in Australia were
> very much aware of the
> marque history way before the majority of others,
> with some notable
> exceptions like Arthur Carter in the UK. I never
> ceases to amaze me how we
> managed to get some many wonderful and rare cars out
> past the English noses
> in the early 1970s. I don't know if would happen now
> especially considering
> the parlous condition of the Australian dollar.
>
> We have indeed been fortunate.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon (originally imported into
> New Zealand, I bought it
> in 1987)
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (originally sold to a
> friend of the Healey
> family to assist the company's cash flow, I bought
> it in 1974)
>
> ps Never had any problem licensing the BN3 as I have
> enough certification to
> fill a book.
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 22:10:26 -0400
Subject: Re: [AHCUSA] 100-4
Hi Tom,
The temperature bulb must be removed from the upper radiator tank. The
gauge has a capillary tube on it (the long thing with the spring wound
around it) which connects a bulb, filled with ether, to the Bowdon tube
within the gauge. The capillary tube is fragile and cannot be
disconnected from the gauge.
You have to undo the hex nut at the radiator end very carefully without
allowing the tube to twist. Then the tube is fed back through the dash
as the gauge is removed from the car.
Good luck.
We have exchange gauges in stock if you need one.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 21:46:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Ivory White
Scott
I think you will be satisfied with Ford Wimbledon White as an almost dead-on
match for OEW. Wimbledon White is a Ford truck color from the late 1980s and
should be available from any paint supplier, i.e. in PPG, DuPont, Sikkins,
Glasserit (sp), Sherwin Williams, Martin Senour, etc., in base-clear or
lacquer, etc. It is also available in Dupli-color (lacquer) in large aerosol
cans if you just need to do a small panel.
DickB
62 BT7 Tri-carb Healey Blue over OEW
Trmgafun@aol.com wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I need to purchase some Ivory White paint (or close match) for my Healey
>project. I am using PPG, and was wondering if any of you might have some
>suggestions. I was planning to use the color sample provided in my Guide to
>Historic Colors Vintage Color Register I purchased from Donald Pikovnik for a
>match, but last I heard, there was a discrepancy. Has this been resolved?
>
> Any help would be most appreciated.
>
> Scott Helms
> Northern Indiana
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyBN4 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 22:57:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Ivory White
Scott, Wimbledon White was also used on original Mustangs. I agree the
color is similar to Old English White on Healey's. You can see on my website
my 66 Mustang Convertible in Wimbledon White. Good Luck, Cheers, Pete
******************************************************************************
********************
Pete Sturtevant - Massachusetts, USA
1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 1966 Mustang GT
1964 Jaguar MK2 3.4 1966 Mustang Convertible
HealeyBN4@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/healeybn4/ <A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/healeybn4/";>My Webpage</A>
******************************************************************************
********************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 23:14:26 EDT
Subject: Adjustable steering wheel
Hello Healey people, I am looking for a very good used adjustable steering
wheel for a BT7. Am I spinning my wheels looking? Hope someone has one that
they are willing to part with. You may contact me off list. Thanks much.
Lanny Pace
BT7
servicar1@cs.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 00:02:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey's with AC
In a message dated 9/5/01 8:22:18 PM Central Daylight Time, wwy@fcol.com
writes:
<< one to my good friend, Al (Pat) Yoas. >>
And Pat still has the car with the A/C in place. He has the belt off of the
York compressor.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Doug Ingram" <dougi at home.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 22:32:33 -0700
Subject: Re: speedometer adjustment?
Hi John:
A good solution is to have a "ratio box" made. It will take into account all
the factors in your car which may vary from the original (things like tire
size, diff ratio, angle drive gearing, speedometer out-of-adjustment, etc.)
and produce accurate speedometer and odometer readings. It goes inline
somewhere on your speedometer cable.
Works great, easily reversible, not expensive.
Contact Jim Loosli at Canwest Tachograph in New Westminster BC. Tel
604-525-1244 Fax: 604-525-4536.
I have no interest, but am a satisfied customer.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
1958 A-H Sprite (AN5L/636)
1963 A-H Sprite Mk II project (HAN7L/30003)
1987 Jaguar XJ6 VDP
and looking for just the right BJ8
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <BANJOJOHN@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 5:18 AM
> Subject: speedometer adjustment?
>
>
> >
> > Hi Listers:
> >
> > Is there a way to adjust the speedometer on my BJ8? It is reading about
> 10%
> > too high. When I got the car, it wasn't working because the angle drive
> was
> > shot, so I got a new one from Moss. Are there different gear ratios in
> the
> > angle drives that I'm not aware of?
> >
> > All input appreciated.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > John O'Brien
> > '61 bugeye
> > '65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 23:17:58 -0700
Subject: Wire Harness Questions
Dear Listers-
I'm preparing to purchase a new wire harness for my Longbridge BN4. Before I
commit, however, I hope to confirm the correct tracer pattern, as my original
harness was replaced with a M*ss tape-wrapped one years ago.
Am I correct in believing that the early BN4's had no tracer at all, just
straight black cloth covering?
As I've had wonderful experience with British Wire, related to several Lucas and
Miller motorcycle harnesses, I'm gravitating toward them for this one as well.
Can anyone recommend the best source for optimizing quality with original
appearance?
Lastly-
What about preparing a cloth harness prior to installation, to hold what the
inevitable rot, fade and fraying? 6 years ago, I sprayed (read soaked) the
harness on my Triumph Trophy with something like Scotch Guard, as an experiment.
So far so good, but the bike lives indoors.......
Any thoughts on cloth harness preservation?
Thanks
Fred Meyer
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 23:23:33 -0700
Subject: Vacuum pipe clips
Listers-
I need one set of clips, the ones that retain the vacuum pipe between
the rear carburettor and the distributor.
I believe there are two for late BN4. One laying horizontally, under the
left rear-most cylinder head nut. the other clamped vertically left and
below the heater tap on the right side of the block.
Most grateful if anyone has some to part with, or can recommend a
source. Orginal parts are preferred.
Thanks-
Fred Meyer
Longbridge BN4, 26D motor
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 05:38:23 -0500
Subject: Bonneville Speedweek
Well to say Speedweek wasn't successful would be an understatement.
Got there early and helped lay out the courses..... but when we opened the
trailer to get the car out..... one of the rear leaf springs was broke in
Half.... hmmm So off we go to rebuild it in Salt Lake city....
Get back the next day and get the car through tech..... go out the second
day and the car is UGLY to drive.... this is a first for the car.... Hmmm
218 mph at the 1 mile and the car is alternately looking at both north and
south sides of the course..... Hmmm ahhh okay we fix the tire stagger issue
( not realizing the junk yard springs have different rates at this point )
and off we go again.... Somewhere out there at the 3 mile marker the Rodeck
aluminum Motor lays down.... YUCK.... not good smoke in the car.... Try a
compression check... and you guessed it.... Bad Gauge.... barrow a buddies
Compression gauge and .... geez it's Bad too....but it's only bad in 3
cylinders.... hmmm okay.... we got a spare...
Dave Freiburger ( new editor to Hot Rod Magazine ) helps me snatch the
Rodeck and stick in the Ole Reliable cast iron motor....now this motor is
down 100hp on the rodeck but it's good for the number... all it's gotta do
is what it did last year..... FAT chance.... it's got a cracked block after
the first pass with NO nitrous..... oh and as we turned off the course the
trans wouldn't come outta gear..... great.... hmmm ( simple deal just a
new 5-6 Slider assembly)
So after a week and two day's of struggling We packed this junk up and I
headed back to Alabama..... somewhere in the middle of Nebraska I have a
trailer tire go away and it takes out the fender and inside floor of the
trailer...... Hmmm
All and all I would say it was a rather miserable week on the salt.... But
ya know what..... I was racing.... I had my buddies around me... and I
tried. what else can ya ask for.....
I am rather pig headed.... My goal is to get this Junk Camaro in the all
four Two Clubs and then build the Healey to do the same only maybe get in
the 300mph club at Bonneville.... So I am going to do that..... I wanted so
desperately to put the Camaro away after this season.... but it's just not
ment to be..... Maybe Next year...
I just can't afford to run two cars or even to build two at the same time so
the Healey is just going to have to wait another year.... oh well I'll get
to it.
Fun stuff now that I am home.... but that dang salt stuff out there can sure
be humbling .... wow.
Keith ( http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk I'll update it in a couple of
weeks)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 05:59:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Vacuum pipe clips x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
hi fred-
i'll pick these up for you sat. at our ntahca tech session and send them to
you. are you still on somerset in castro valley ?
happy healeying,
jerry
kerowako wrote:
>
>
> Listers-
>
> I need one set of clips, the ones that retain the vacuum pipe between
> the rear carburettor and the distributor.
>
> I believe there are two for late BN4. One laying horizontally, under the
> left rear-most cylinder head nut. the other clamped vertically left and
> below the heater tap on the right side of the block.
>
> Most grateful if anyone has some to part with, or can recommend a
> source. Orginal parts are preferred.
>
> Thanks-
>
> Fred Meyer
> Longbridge BN4, 26D motor
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:29:43 -0400
Subject: 1956 Healey Sport Boat on Ebay
Folks,
Saw this on Ebay. For you guys who have always wanted the
boat to go with the Healey collection, Ebay has one at auction...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595177447
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 08:33:23 -0500
Subject: Austin Healey 50th Anniversary
Are there any US travel packages to attend the 50th Anniversary celebration
in the UK next year? Looks like it might be an opportunity to take a unique
vacation. US Healey clubs doing any packages?
Mark
Nashville
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 10:30:29 -0400
Subject: Re: FW: Delivery failure
Hi Bud,
I would think it is very unlikely that a blockage in the oil line is the cause
of
the low oil pressure reading, Particularly if the gauge reads high when the
engine is cold.
It would be worth checking the restrictor for the gauge which is the threaded
connector on the engine block where the gauge flex line connects. This union has
a very small hole in it to limit the amount of oil lost should the gauge line
fail.
I would, however, recommend that you have a "direct reading" pressure test done
on the engine when it is up to full temperature.
If the pressure is below about 40 - 50 p.s.i. and 3000 R.P.M. hot you should
look
further for the cause which is most likely to be engine bearings.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
William Craig wrote:
>
> >
> > Is there a way to clean out an oil pressure gage?. I think mine has some
> > dirty oil in it. When I start the car the pressure goes up to 35 to 40 psi
> > then as I drive for a while it drops to 5 to 10 psi. About 3 months ago I
> > had unknowingly let the oil get very dirty (problems with a leaky valve
> > guide i think) and finally changed it. I cleaned out the copper oil line
> > however I think there must have been some residue left in the gage. I am
> > hoping this is the problem. I will check this first - Can I clean out the
> > gage by spraying in some de gunking fluid any suggestions?? I have
> > the head off at the moment as well and am beginning to work on the valve
> > problem.
> bud craig BN6
> Ottawa, Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 08:27:52 -0700
Subject: AC plans
Plans for a system made by Richard Dryman in the 80's for under $300 are
available from Richard for $12. An article was in Healey Highlights October
1986. Contact me off line for his address which was in the article.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 10:13:11 -0600
Subject: Re: 1956 Healey Sport Boat on Ebay
M Brouillette wrote:
> Folks,
>
> Saw this on Ebay. For you guys who have always wanted the
> boat to go with the Healey collection, Ebay has one at auction...
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595177447
>
> I cannot find a reference to AquaCraft in the references to Healey Sport
>boats.
> This auction states that the boat is by AquaCraft and that it was designed by
> Donald Healey. I cannot find a reference to Donald Healey designing a boat for
> someone else to build. Also the Healey outboards it says were used with a
>Scott
> Atwater engine. Does anyone happen to know if the outboards were a dealer
> installed feature and could be supplied with a Mercury engine?
Thanks in advance.
Ward Stebner
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 10:30:20 -0700
Subject: OT - drain plug removal
OT but thought the brain trust could help me out of a jam....
I removed the transmission from our VW golf to replace the clutch. The
tranny drain plug has a tapered pipe thread with 17mm hex recess for
turning. The plug appears to be cross threaded and it is resisting all
attempts to remove it. I tried to remove it using a large breaker bar
and the hex recess is now all buggered.. $#%@! I was thinking of
drilling and using a screw extractor but concerned that metal chips will
get into the tranny or breaking the EZout. Also considered welding a hex
bolt or allen wrench into the recess.
Thanks,
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 13:45:49 -0400
Subject: Re: speedometer adjustment?
Hi john,
If you have the patience and a measured mile the 3 or 4 digit number on
the speedo face is the number of turns per mile.(1000 for your BJ8) or
try (5.68 turns in 10 yards)
It is important to determine if the error is a fixed number ( meaning
that the needle has been installed in the wrong position) or a
percentage (meaning the cable is turning at the wrong rate.)
If the odometer is fairly accurate then the former is most likely.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 14:02:26 EDT
Subject: Ivory White & Two-Tone Paint
Hi everyone,
Much thanks for all of the information you've passed along to me. Two popular
subjects indeed! Lots of messages to sift through......
Best regards,
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 10:47:41 -0700
Subject: Ivory White & Two-Tone Paint
M Brouillette wrote:
> Folks,
>
> Saw this on Ebay. For you guys who have always wanted the
> boat to go with the Healey collection, Ebay has one at auction...
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595177447
>
> I cannot find a reference to AquaCraft in the references to Healey Sport
boats.
> This auction states that the boat is by AquaCraft and that it was designed
by
> Donald Healey. I cannot find a reference to Donald Healey designing a boat
for
> someone else to build. Also the Healey outboards it says were used with a
Scott
> Atwater engine. Does anyone happen to know if the outboards were a dealer
> installed feature and could be supplied with a Mercury engine?
Thanks in advance.
Ward Stebner
I just hope it doesn't have a LUCAS fuel pump below the water line
:-}...........dp
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 14:16:50 -0400
Subject: re WT.3 OEW / ivory white
Guys,
Heres the real deal.
BMC code WT.3 in PPG lacquer if desired 8177
in PPG DCC urethane 8802
these are direct cross overs (no shade differences)
yours truly,
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations Inc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 15:01:34 -0500
Subject: Re:
guaranteed not have a lucas fuel pump !! they never made them.
Dwight Patten wrote:
>
>
> M Brouillette wrote:
>
> > Folks,
> >
> > Saw this on Ebay. For you guys who have always wanted the
> > boat to go with the Healey collection, Ebay has one at auction...
> >
> >
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595177447
> >
> > I cannot find a reference to AquaCraft in the references to Healey Sport
> boats.
> > This auction states that the boat is by AquaCraft and that it was designed
> by
> > Donald Healey. I cannot find a reference to Donald Healey designing a boat
> for
> > someone else to build. Also the Healey outboards it says were used with a
> Scott
> > Atwater engine. Does anyone happen to know if the outboards were a dealer
> > installed feature and could be supplied with a Mercury engine?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Ward Stebner
>
> I just hope it doesn't have a LUCAS fuel pump below the water line
> :-}...........dp
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Kevin Richards <flybirds at erols.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 17:21:17 -0400
Subject: British Car show In CT Oct 7th NEW LINKS AND INFO!
Greetings fellow British Car listers. Finally, after a great deal of
organizing and planning, my friends Gary and Dave have put together the
First Annual British Autumn Car show and Autojumble.
This is the SECOND post, as the first post had some problems with links
and info on the flyer, so here goes. If you are still having trouble
getting to the flyer via the links, please email me and I will send it
to you directly as an attachment (itty bitty file).
The First British Autumn will take place in Somers, CT and will start
around 10am.
I have enclosed via a link, a copy of the flyer we have made. Please
make its first year a success and come out and visit with your favorite
British car, motorcycle, whatever. Great place to set up a spot to vend
also(please call first to arrange). Get rid of all your garage clutter
to fund that winter British car restoration!
CLICK HERE!
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1088246&a=13727059&f=0
or try this:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1088246&a=13727059&p=53860920
OR
, if that does not work, you can always go to www.photopoint.com and
punch in my email address: flybirds@erols.com where it says "visit
friends albums"....the one you want is marked British autumn.
Just wanted to let you listers know about it since it is a new show, and
we hope to continue it for years to come. Plenty of activities for the
family and especially the kids. Driving range, miniature golf, etc.
Great food, beautiful cars and an autojumble to boot!
Contact:
Gary Booker at 203 230 9782 or 203 248 9255
Dave Sturtevant at dlsturt@aol.com or 860 763 0371
Thanks
Kevin Richards
1962 MGA in "half way there stage"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Warrenberg at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 17:34:50 EDT
Subject: Upholstery how to bugaboo
Friends,
When I redid the interior of my 61 BT7 I used a Moss kit. There were no
instructions and no internet. The panels that line the sides behind the
front seats and along the jump seats were beyond my ability because of the
curve along the top. In other words the job I did looks horrible as i did
several cuts along the top to get the vinyl to fit. What is the right way to
do it?
Hopefully,
Warren Berg
1961 Austin-Healey 3000 and a 1960 in waiting
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 18:56:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Upholstery how to bugaboo
Warren,
The best way is to buy the panels already properly upholstered from Heritage.
Bob Denton
Warrenberg@aol.com wrote:
> Friends,
>
> When I redid the interior of my 61 BT7 I used a Moss kit. There were no
> instructions and no internet. The panels that line the sides behind the
> front seats and along the jump seats were beyond my ability because of the
> curve along the top. In other words the job I did looks horrible as i did
> several cuts along the top to get the vinyl to fit. What is the right way to
> do it?
>
> Hopefully,
> Warren Berg
> 1961 Austin-Healey 3000 and a 1960 in waiting
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 10:13:41 +1000
Subject: RE: 1956 Healey Sport Boat on Ebay
G'day
Thought I should remind my friends in the Northern Hemisphere that it's
Spring in Australia right now. Trees are in bud, blossoms have burst, more
bare navels on show - it's a pure delight. Perfect Austin-Healey weather
too, not that it makes that much of a difference being able to use our cars
365 days of the year.
I'm at the office so don't have my reference material with me. However I
seem to remember that not that many Healey SportsBoats were actually made at
the Donald Healey Motor Company being contracted out to a range of
companies. I'm not saying for sure but AquaCraft does ring a bell.
I also remember that there were also quite a few models including the
original four cylinder BMC engined clinker style example, the Coventry
Climax racing boat and my favourite, the Mk 2 TriCarb version that drove
through a Hamilton Jet Drive. There was also later fibreglass versions built
to take outboard motors as well as a half cabin. One model was also called
the Sprite. There was even talk of setting up a factory in the Bahamas to
produce the boats with Grand Prix driver Peter Collins managing the
facility. However it was not the success that was hoped for and I suspect
ended up being a financial drain on the DHMC. As DMH said "a boot maker
should keep to his last."
At US$3,500 the one on Ebay seems to be well priced, albeit it doesn't have
the earlier touches as the marinised BMC engine. Go for it.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
1955 1:43 scale Healey SportsBoat with trailer complete with box.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ward Stebner [mailto:liason@sk.sympatico.ca]
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 2:13 AM
To: M Brouillette
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 1956 Healey Sport Boat on Ebay
M Brouillette wrote:
> Folks,
>
> Saw this on Ebay. For you guys who have always wanted the
> boat to go with the Healey collection, Ebay has one at auction...
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595177447
>
> I cannot find a reference to AquaCraft in the references to Healey Sport
boats.
> This auction states that the boat is by AquaCraft and that it was designed
by
> Donald Healey. I cannot find a reference to Donald Healey designing a boat
for
> someone else to build. Also the Healey outboards it says were used with a
Scott
> Atwater engine. Does anyone happen to know if the outboards were a dealer
> installed feature and could be supplied with a Mercury engine?
Thanks in advance.
Ward Stebner
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 20:41:53 -0400
Subject: Vredestein tires
Is anyone out there running Vredestein tires on a BJ8-II, specifically the
185/70R15 Sprint+ model. If so, how do you like the aesthetics (looks) and
handling (feel)?
Vredestein also has the 195/70R15 T-Trac, but it looks to modern, with the
water channels, and I'm afraid it would be a tad to wide.
Gary R. Cox
'67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 18:08:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Vredestein tires
Gary,
I have the 185/70R15s on my BJ8 Phase II. I've put almost 5,000 miles on them
in mostly sunny, dry weather. What little wet pavement driving I've done
indicates they
should be OK in all but the most severe storms.
I am pleased with the performance of the tires. They grip better than the
10-year-old Yokohamas
I had, but I attribute that to the hardening of the rubber of the older tires
(I'd have bought another
set of the Yokohamas if I could have found them). The tread pattern and
embossing are less
contemporary, more like a tire from the 70s or 80s, but they certainly look OK
on a Healey.
It's purely subjective, but a "tire man" pointed out that S-rated tires usually
have a softer sidewall
and therefore a softer ride than T-, U- H- or V-rated (I think the Yokohamas
were V-rated). I do
think the Vredesteins ride just a little softer at the same pressures.
I also drove them through Death Valley at 112 deg F and they didn't melt :)
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> Is anyone out there running Vredestein tires on a BJ8-II, specifically the
> 185/70R15 Sprint+ model. If so, how do you like the aesthetics (looks) and
> handling (feel)?
> Vredestein also has the 195/70R15 T-Trac, but it looks to modern, with the
> water channels, and I'm afraid it would be a tad to wide.
>
> Gary R. Cox
> '67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 18:33:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Upholstery how to bugaboo
Warren -
Aside from "getting a new kit from heritage", I might
suggest getting the Healey apholstry how-to video that
Moss sells. It's actually very helpful and will give
you most of what you need to know to do a really nice
job. I used it to install a complete interior kit in
my BJ8, and aside from a few very minor bits, the
installation looks just about as professional as you
can get - the video is really helpful.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Warrenberg@aol.com wrote:
>
> Friends,
>
> When I redid the interior of my 61 BT7 I used a Moss
> kit. There were no
> instructions and no internet. The panels that line
> the sides behind the
> front seats and along the jump seats were beyond my
> ability because of the
> curve along the top. In other words the job I did
> looks horrible as i did
> several cuts along the top to get the vinyl to fit.
> What is the right way to
> do it?
>
> Hopefully,
> Warren Berg
> 1961 Austin-Healey 3000 and a 1960 in waiting
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 07:52:39 -0400
Subject: Tonneau stiffener
Hi All,
I just purchased and received my tonneau stiffener bow from Moss. It's
painted a flat black. What's the original color for these? Is it the same
gray as the top frame?
Thanks,
Dave Masucci
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 07:05:36 -0500
Subject: Upholster Kits from Moss
Warren Berg writes <When I redid the interior of my 61 BT7 I used a Moss
kit. There were no
instructions and no internet>
I, too, ordered the kit from Moss. What I got was luan paneling with a roll
of vinyl. If you can contact Moss Motors they will communicate with you via
e-mail regarding how to do that. I must admit their upholstery supervisor
tried hard to explain it to me, however it is very difficult without having
the pieces in front of you. I drew pictures of the parts, scanned them and
labeled them (part a, part b, part c, etc.) and sent the pictures to Moss
via e-mail. Their supervisor then explained how pieces lined up and how
they covered them.
In my opinion, Moss should have covered the pieces and then sent them out as
a kit. Their advertising is misleading in the catalogue. I wrote them a
letter about it but received nothing in return.
Their upholstery supervisor was apologetic and helpful, however, and I find
no fault with her.
I will try to find her e-mail address amongst all of my miscellaneous Austin
Healey papers and send it to Warren off the list. If anyone else has
problems with Moss Kits, e-mail me and I'll send you her e-mail address off
list. I don't think Moss or she would appreciate me publishing it on the
list.
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "mel" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 09:37:06 -0400
Subject: Fuel Tank
I am in the process of deciding on which fuel tank to buy for my BJ8, either
steel or aluminum. Can anyone help me with the pro and cons of either. Is
the steel safer than the aluminum?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Mel Brunet
Land O'Lakes, Fl
67 BJ8 39749
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 14:54:07 +0100
Subject: Pertronix Ignition and Timing
On 15 August 2001, Robert Dobrowski wrote (edited):
A similar discussion recently occurred on the Sunbeam Alpine list
... The real problem apparently is ... that the rotor is not pointed at
the proper spark plug wire contact inside of the cap."
I have been running a Pertronix on my BN4 (negative earth) for the
last couple of months and took the distributor cap off last night to
have a look. I fitted a new Lucas cap and rotor arm at the same
time as the Pertronix.
There was none of the usual pitting and discolouration of the rotor
arm contact, just a slight marking bang in the middle of the brass!
Incidentally, the engine is timed at 8 degrees btdc using standard
unleaded (UK rating 95 octane) plus Castrol Valvemaster additive.
It has a BJ8 cam and raised CR, the latter probably requiring the
retardation relative to factory settings to avoid pre-detonation
(pinking).
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 00:54:09 +1000
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank
Hi Mel
This is a really complicated question. "Steel" is really (in terms of
original Healey tanks) a special "tin plated" metal - the correct name
escapes me - but it originally provided a 'soldered' - as well as a
welded - seal. i.e. it is a 'solder plated steel'
Aluminium - well - that's just a welded / folded aluminium joint. The metal
which 'original' tanks was made from is no longer made.....
Short answer? My BJ8 has an aluminium tank. Weight? I know you didn't ask -
but my alloy, baffled bigger than standard tank erred on the side of
safety - so my aluminium tank is actually heavier than a steel tank - crazy
but true.
If you get a tank 'made' - there are several improvements you can
incorporate. My tank is better baffled, 'drops' between the chassis rails,
and holds over 70 litres (standard is around 54 litres) and is foam filled
(for safety).
It takes no more 'practical' boot room than a standard tank, and I can fit a
195 x 60 x 15 Yokohama A008R tyre on a 6in rim in the boot. Please Re-read
this sentence - as most cars can't fit a 195 x 60 x 15 tyre on a 6in rim
inside the boot..........
Safety? I think a 'new' tank is safer than a 40 year old one....... and I
also think that the tank material makes 'stuff all' (this is an extemely
technical Australian term meaning 'very little' - in US conversion terms it
is 'probably more than a 'poofteenth'' - but less than 'the thichness of a
hacksaw blade'....) difference to safety - given both tanks are pressure
tested and made to an appropriate standard.
Pics of my tank (made in aluminium, and as described above) are at
underside (2nd pic) see:
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey/underside.html
inside boot (i.e the pretty polished bit everyone gets to see) :
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey/boot.html
Hope this helps
Chris
_____________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "mel" <mel5@mindspring.com>
>
> I am in the process of deciding on which fuel tank to buy for my BJ8,
either
> steel or aluminum. Can anyone help me with the pro and cons of either.
Is
> the steel safer than the aluminum?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Larry Hewlett" <hewlett at cablelan.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 08:11:50 -0700
Subject: Trailer Hitch
I am thinking about building a light "tear drop" style trailer to pull behind
our BJ7. I am looking for detailed pictures or drawings for fabrication and
mounting a hitch on the car.TIA.
Regards
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7 (on the road next spring)
Peachland, B.C.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 10:12:16 -0500
Subject: DEAD PERTRONIX
Hi Listers, I have a rather urgent problem on behalf of a non-list pal. He
successfully started his Morris woodie engine following a total overhaul.
It's a 1275 from a Spridget with a Pertronix. Pre-start testing showed a
hot, fat spark from the coil with plug wire to ground. That night he
accidentally left the ignition switched on for several hours. Now the spark
is skinny and sorta pink colored and the engine won't hit at all. What got
cooked?? The coil?? The Pertronix?? Something else?? Feedback would be
appreciated. Thanks in advance,
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 08:17:03 -0700
Subject: update on broken screws that hold brake drum on
List,
I just wanted to give you an update on why the screws broke that hold the
brake drum on the hub. The brake shoes had been relined and the company
that did the work did not smooth off the excess material to the edge of the
metal shoe. This excess material caused the drum to stand off the axle
about 1/16 of an inch. The drum was held on with the lug nuts but the play
caused the heads of the two screws to pop off.
I guess maybe I will check the other wheel also.
Stupid lesson number 3 shared with the list.
Jerry
BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 08:19:52 -0700
Subject: keys on a BJ8
My Bj8 was painted earlier this year and a new trunk handle installed. My
"friends" at the body shop lost the keys to the new handle (in the open
position). My question is: I am reusing the original panel switches and
ignition switch (rightly or wrongly) and was wondering if 1). The ignition
key can be "keyed alike" to open all doors, trunk and ignition or 2). I can
get a lock serial number off of the new trunk one and have a new key made to
fit. At least I can shut off and secure the battery. Otherwise, I will
likely have to buy another new lock handle.
dp 67 BJ8 waiting for fall to ride.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 11:26:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Trailer Hitch
This is a fascinating idea. With Healeys as close to the ground as they are,
what is your anticipated tongue weight. I try to keep no more than 300 lbs
tongue weight on my trailer behind my Grand Cherokee and that dumps the Jeep
down about two to three inches. You are either going to have to beef up your
rear suspension considerably or keep the load next to nothing.
Bob Denton
Larry Hewlett wrote:
> I am thinking about building a light "tear drop" style trailer to pull behind
> our BJ7. I am looking for detailed pictures or drawings for fabrication and
> mounting a hitch on the car.TIA.
>
> Regards
> Larry Hewlett
> 63 BJ7 (on the road next spring)
> Peachland, B.C
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 09:00:41 -0700
Subject: Tonneau stiffener
Dave,
I have the original stiffener and convertible frame for my '60 BT7,
and both came in the medium gray color.
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California
Hi All,
I just purchased and received my tonneau stiffener bow from Moss. It's
painted a flat black. What's the original color for these? Is it the
same
gray as the top frame?
Thanks,
Dave Masucci
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 12:17:36 -0400
Subject: Re: update on broken screws that hold brake drum on
Hi Jerry,
IMHO I suspect that your diagnosis of the problem is incorrect.
If the brake shoes were that much too wide then tightening the 5 hub nuts would
clamp the shoe between the drum and the backplate thus preventing the drum from
turning.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Jerry Costanzo wrote:
> . The brake shoes had been relined and the company
> that did the work did not smooth off the excess material to the edge of the
> metal shoe. This excess material caused the drum to stand off the axle
> about 1/16 of an inch. The drum was held on with the lug nuts but the play
> caused the heads of the two screws to pop off.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary Black (Hexagon Transportation Consultants)"
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 09:44:51 -0700
Subject: Seeking 100/6 or 3000 Non-overdrive Gearboxes
Hello Listers,
Does anyone have any non-overdrive gearboxes he or she would like to get
rid of? I'm specifically interested in the input shaft and main shaft, but
I will take the whole box if that is easier. Please e-mail me direct.
Gary K. Black
HEXAGON TRANSPORTATION CONSULTANTS, INC.
40 S. Market Street, Suite 600
San Jose, CA 95113
Tel: 408-971-6100
Fax: 408-971-6102
www.hextrans.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 13:02:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Tonneau stiffener
In a message dated 9/7/01 4:56:58 AM, david_m@radiantsoundworks.com writes:
<<
Hi All,
I just purchased and received my tonneau stiffener bow from Moss. It's
painted a flat black. What's the original color for these? Is it the same
gray as the top frame? >>
Yes
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 13:23:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Trailer Hitch
In a message dated 9/7/01 8:10:56 AM, hewlett@cablelan.net writes:
<<
I am thinking about building a light "tear drop" style trailer to pull behind
our BJ7. I am looking for detailed pictures or drawings for fabrication and
mounting a hitch on the car.TIA.
Regards
Larry Hewlett >>
Two suggestions: Norman and Shona Nock of British Car Specialists owned
(probably still own) an original tear-drop that they towed behind their
Hundred when they went skiing at Tahoe in the late fifties and you could get
some info from looking at theirs.
Also, Popular Mechanics had plans for building one in one of their issues in
the fifties -- with a little foraging in their archives you might be able to
get those plans. I saw a home-built teardrop being sold at the RM auction
that had been built from those plans.
Good luck -- it would be a welcom new thing after seeing all those trailers
built from the rear-ends of Healeys.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 13:25:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Trailer Hitch
In a message dated 9/7/01 8:27:31 AM, foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
<<
This is a fascinating idea. With Healeys as close to the ground as they are,
what is your anticipated tongue weight. I try to keep no more than 300 lbs
tongue weight on my trailer behind my Grand Cherokee and that dumps the Jeep
down about two to three inches. You are either going to have to beef up your
rear suspension considerably or keep the load next to nothing.
Bob Denton >>
Len Hartnett has been towing a camping trailer with his BJ8 lo these many
years. Check with him regarding weight, suspension, and behaviour.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 13:45:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Seeking 100/6 or 3000 Non-overdrive Gearboxes
Hi Gary,
As I recall there are 3 mainshafts for non overdrive boxes 1B3720, AEC3362,
22B177 and 4 input (drive) gears AEC3259 AEC3258 (Which may be the same)
AEC3472,
22B140.
Which ones ar you after?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"Gary Black (Hexagon Transportation Consultants)" wrote:
> Hello Listers,
>
> Does anyone have any non-overdrive gearboxes he or she would like to get
> rid of? I'm specifically interested in the input shaft and main shaft, but
> I will take the whole box if that is easier. Please e-mail me direct.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 14:20:59 EDT
Subject: Re: DEAD PERTRONIX
In a message dated 9/7/01 10:14:05 AM Central Daylight Time,
jnbrashear@GarverInc.com writes:
<< The Pertronix?? >>
Jack,
Probably the Pentronix unit. I think they tell you not to leave the ign. on.
They have a web site and you can e-mail or call them for the test procedures
to check the unit. They faxed a drawing to me, can't put my hands on it right
now.
Good luck
Don Lenschow
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 15:45:38 EDT
Subject: My Trailer Hitch
I built a half Healey trailer a few years back for my BJ8. I designed it in
full scale so that it could be copied by the welder.
The front most part is a U shaped bar that slid over the rear frame and I
drilled 2 holes thru that and the frame for 2 stainless steel bolts. The U
shaped bar had a flat bar heading back towards the rear going under the
resonator and came up past the rear license plate. There were two metal
brackets that went to the bolt that holds the bumper on. I just added longer
bolts to accept the bracket. Also included hooks for the safety chain.
Anyplace that the bracket made a 90 degree bend, I had braces welded across
the angle for strength.
I pulled the half Healey, but it doesn't weigh very much with the rear end
taken out, the battery, gas tank, etc. The tongue weight can't be more than
a couple of pounds. It trailers very well even up to 75 mph.
Hope this helps.
Rudy Streng in Lenoir, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 15:59:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Tonneau stiffener
Thanks everyone!
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: Tonneau stiffener
>
> In a message dated 9/7/01 4:56:58 AM, david_m@radiantsoundworks.com
writes:
>
> <<
> Hi All,
>
> I just purchased and received my tonneau stiffener bow from Moss. It's
> painted a flat black. What's the original color for these? Is it the same
> gray as the top frame? >>
>
> Yes
> Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 21:31:17 +0100
Subject: Re: keys on a BJ8
In message <F1ADFDB1C850D311BCE20008C79162A6078F5569@zbl6c004.corpeast.b
aynetworks.com>, Dwight Patten <pattend@nortelnetworks.com> writes
>
>My Bj8 was painted earlier this year and a new trunk handle installed. My
>"friends" at the body shop lost the keys to the new handle (in the open
>position). My question is: I am reusing the original panel switches and
>ignition switch (rightly or wrongly) and was wondering if 1). The ignition
>key can be "keyed alike" to open all doors, trunk and ignition or 2). I can
>get a lock serial number off of the new trunk one and have a new key made to
>fit. At least I can shut off and secure the battery. Otherwise, I will
>likely have to buy another new lock handle.
>dp 67 BJ8 waiting for fall to ride.
>
I was helped by the list on this same question a year ago. The number
stamped on the square shaft is what you need to order a new key. Can't
remember how much I had to dismantle to get to the number, but the task
was trivial, IIRC.
Hope this helps.
-
Alan F Cross
See UK's Austin Healey Club Web Forum at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 21:31:17 +0100
Subject: Re: keys on a BJ8
In message <F1ADFDB1C850D311BCE20008C79162A6078F5569@zbl6c004.corpeast.b
aynetworks.com>, Dwight Patten <pattend@nortelnetworks.com> writes
>
>My Bj8 was painted earlier this year and a new trunk handle installed. My
>"friends" at the body shop lost the keys to the new handle (in the open
>position). My question is: I am reusing the original panel switches and
>ignition switch (rightly or wrongly) and was wondering if 1). The ignition
>key can be "keyed alike" to open all doors, trunk and ignition or 2). I can
>get a lock serial number off of the new trunk one and have a new key made to
>fit. At least I can shut off and secure the battery. Otherwise, I will
>likely have to buy another new lock handle.
>dp 67 BJ8 waiting for fall to ride.
>
I was helped by the list on this same question a year ago. The number
stamped on the square shaft is what you need to order a new key. Can't
remember how much I had to dismantle to get to the number, but the task
was trivial, IIRC.
Hope this helps.
-
Alan F Cross
See UK's Austin Healey Club Web Forum at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 22:18:52 +0100
Subject: Re: Seeking 100/6 or 3000 Non-overdrive Gearboxes
Gary,
If you have problems in the States with your gearbox parts get in touch.
We have dismantled eight Big Healey gearboxes in the last year, ranging from
the BN1 to the BJ8.
Regards.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: Gary Black (Hexagon Transportation Consultants) <gblack@hextrans.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 07 September 2001 19:43
Subject: Re: Seeking 100/6 or 3000 Non-overdrive Gearboxes
>
>Hi Gary,
>
>As I recall there are 3 mainshafts for non overdrive boxes 1B3720, AEC3362,
>22B177 and 4 input (drive) gears AEC3259 AEC3258 (Which may be the same)
AEC3472,
>22B140.
>Which ones ar you after?
>
>--
>Regards,
>
>Mike Salter
>http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
>"Gary Black (Hexagon Transportation Consultants)" wrote:
>
>> Hello Listers,
>>
>> Does anyone have any non-overdrive gearboxes he or she would like to get
>> rid of? I'm specifically interested in the input shaft and main shaft,
but
>> I will take the whole box if that is easier. Please e-mail me direct.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 22:16:49 +0100
Subject: UJB 143
Guys,
on th e subject of values.....UJB 144 - which went at the back end of
last year for mid-#40k (#48k??) is on sale from Coys of Kensington
(http://www.coys.co.uk/) for #75k. I had to look twice myself. Looks
like somebody is looking for a large return on the investment especially
after there were questions asked about it left, right and centre, not a
few of which were on this discussion group!
Peter Dzwig
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 19:17:52 -0400
Subject: Fw: BN-1,2 Options
Having not received any replies to this I'm trying again. No answer this
time I'll give up.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Adams <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.com>
To: HealeyList <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 12:59 PM
Subject: BN-1,2 Options
>Hi All!
>
>I understand (rightly or wrongly?) that chrome plated valve covers were an
>available option on these cars.
>
>Where were they installed - dealer or factory?
>
>What was the finish on the filler cap, the hold down cap nuts?
>
>What else is there to know about them?
>
>I have a chrome cover that came on my car, when purchased in '87, sans
>finish on cap. I'm considering sprucing it up and reinstalling on the
car -
>if it's correct as an option in Concours.
>
>Thanks in advance for your comments/knowledge/help.
>
>Ed Adams
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 20:43:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Fw: BN-1,2 Options
Here's the answer as I know it: Donald Healey Motor Works offered a chrome
valve cover on an exchange basis for the Hundreds early on and later this
could be ordered from the factory through the dealer either with a new car or
as an accessory. It came with chrome-plated hold-down bolts and filler cap. I
would bet that dealers and owners were also having the valve covers plated.
There was also a very popular aftermarket chrome valve cover with cooling
fins molded into the top. I think someone recently had this fancy cover
remanufactured.
In a message dated 9/7/01 4:00:09 PM, JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< >I understand (rightly or wrongly?) that chrome plated valve covers were an
>available option on these cars.
>
>Where were they installed - dealer or factory?
>
>What was the finish on the filler cap, the hold down cap nuts?
>
>What else is there to know about them? >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jim Baustian <jabaustian at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 20:00:59 -0500
Subject: BN 1, 2 Options
Ed Adams
Our BN1 has been in our family since 1978. A chrome valve cover was on the
engine when the car was purchased. The filler cap and nuts were chrome
plated as well. I have no idea where the installation of this cover took
place or if it might have been a factory option. Additional information may
be available from one of the previous owners of this car. I would be glad to
contact him if it would be helpful to you. Photos of the valve cover could
also be provided. Off list contact may be of benefit since it appears that
our chrome valve covers are unusual at least.
Jim Baustian
1955 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Wood Jr" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 21:26:27 -0400
Subject: UJB 144
This car, sent to Canada, when the other four cars went to Sebring, was
recently on sale in Hemmings and probably didn't sell because most everyone
knew it went for a lot less not too long ago. The owner also is trying to
sell Fred Cohen's former 100S, probably also for too much.
Happy days are here again!
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 21:43:29 -0400
Subject: Re: UJB 144
Here we go again, bad mouthing higher prices. You knew it sold for less, but god
forbid somebody gets a good deal and turns around and tries to make a few bucks
on it. You assume it's too much because it's more than you are willing to pay.
No wonder Healeys go cheap. You guys just can't stop bad mouthing Healey values.
What is happy about someone not getting a high price? Tell me.
Bob Denton
William Wood Jr wrote:
> This car, sent to Canada, when the other four cars went to Sebring, was
> recently on sale in Hemmings and probably didn't sell because most everyone
> knew it went for a lot less not too long ago. The owner also is trying to
> sell Fred Cohen's former 100S, probably also for too much.
>
> Happy days are here again!
>
> Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 21:51:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Fw: BN-1,2 Options
In a message dated 9/7/01 8:45:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
> There was also a very popular aftermarket chrome valve cover with cooling
> fins molded into the top. I think someone recently had this fancy cover
> remanufactured.
>
>
Actually, they are polished aluminum--I think they sold under the "Androtti"
name. My car has one from the fifties with a nice cloissonee "Austin-Healey"
wings logo--the newer ones lack this, I believe. I have been told that J.C.
Whitney sold them back then!
Michael Oritt--100 Le Mans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 19:14:34 -0700
Subject: Re: UJB 144
I'll tell you....
Love of money is highly questionable.
Love of Healeys is, uh, far less questionable. ; )
Fred Meyer
Arjay wrote:
> Here we go again, bad mouthing higher prices. You knew it sold for less, but
>god
> forbid somebody gets a good deal and turns around and tries to make a few
>bucks
> on it. You assume it's too much because it's more than you are willing to
>pay.
> No wonder Healeys go cheap. You guys just can't stop bad mouthing Healey
>values.
> What is happy about someone not getting a high price? Tell me.
>
> Bob Denton
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 19:34:01 -0700
Subject: Repairing small springs - non healey
I have two small compression springs that were stretched when I removed
them. In other words they have become uncoiled in the middle.
Is there a way to reform and spring temper them? The are about 1/4" in
diameter and 3/4" long.
Help from the list spring experts would be very much appreciated as the
springs are part of an old table.
Thanks so much.
John
'62 BT7 with a broken leaf spring, again. A brand old NOS on at that!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 23:07:55 EDT
Subject: archive for polarity conversion?
Where do I find the info on reversing polarity on my BJ8. I thought I knew
where it was but can't find it!
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 14:54:34 +1000
Subject: Which UJB143 ?
Hi All,
I suspect there is a little confusion here between the 'two' UJB 143s and
UJB 144...
My understanding is:
UJB143 was first affixed to a 'Green' Sebring car for Sebring 1960, and Le
Mans 1960. This green car was then sold to a privateer, Dave Dixon, who re
registered it DD300 (his personalised plates). This is the famous John
Chatham car DD300 - John had been racing this car for longer than even he
can remember... and its history is well documented. It was a 'green' circuit
car (ie a Geoff Healey prepared car) - not a 'red' rally car. Dixon raced
the car at Le Mans in 1961 and 1962 with his own drivers (refered to on
P178 of "Works Big Healeys)
When the green Sebring car UJB143 was sold - as was the usual procedure (ask
Joe Armour!!) - the competitions department reused the UJB143 plates -
affixing them to a new RED/white hardtop Rally car - the car Pat Moss ran in
the 1962 Tour of Corsica and Riley drove in the 1961 Midnight Sun rally.
This red rally car - registered UJB143 - was recently sold by Tony
Parkinson of South Australia, and went to the UK. Tony had raced this car at
Bathurst in the 1998 All Healey races - a red car with a white roof - and
John Chatham (also a competitor at Bathurst 1998) - and owner of DD300
(originally registered UJB143) confirmed this is what had happened with the
regos - and that the two UJB143s were dramatically different cars. I think
the ex-Tony Parkinson car is the coys auction car at http://www.coys.co.uk/
I have copied this post to Tony Parkinson - is it your old UJB143 up for
sale at Coys Tony??
By the way, the book "The Works Big Healeys" has got the story of UJB143 ALL
WRONG in their car summary. If you look at page 215, it indicates that there
was one car registered UJB143 - and implies it was both a works 'circuit
car' in 1960 - and a works 'rally' car in 1961 and 1962 - and also refers to
UJB143 running at Le Mans in private hands in 1961 and 1962. Hardly likely
or feasible that it was the same car - resprayed between events? - and ran
LeMans and rallies in the same years!!!!!!!!! Rally cars are dramatically
different to circuit cars.
UJB144 is a "green" car - the 'spare' 1960 Sebring car - and effectively the
'sister car' to John Chathams DD300 - a circuit car.
see http://208.195.144.206/Auctions/30/Catalog_6.html
or http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/austinhl/a76686/a76686ss.htm
Thats my understanding - feel free to correct me if I'm wrong - but most of
this stuff is very well documented - and the relevant owners I'm sure have
all the appropriate supporting paperwork (eg FIA papers with engine/chassis
numbers).
Hope this clarifies rather than confuses....
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Dzwig" <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2001 7:16 AM
Subject: UJB 143
>
> Guys,
>
> on th e subject of values.....UJB 144 - which went at the back end of
> last year for mid-#40k (#48k??) is on sale from Coys of Kensington
> (http://www.coys.co.uk/) for #75k. I had to look twice myself. Looks
> like somebody is looking for a large return on the investment especially
> after there were questions asked about it left, right and centre, not a
> few of which were on this discussion group!
>
> Peter Dzwig
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 22:39:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Trailer Hitch
Hey, Gary. You dissin' my trailer? Well, your car is the wrong color blue.
So there. Now we're even.
:-? (tongue in cheek)
Love ya anyway. Len. :-)
No matter the price
No matter how new
The best safety device
in the car is you
Burma Shave
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <hewlett@cablelan.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: Trailer Hitch
> Good luck -- it would be a welcom new thing after seeing all those
trailers
> built from the rear-ends of Healeys.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 07:14:01 -0500
Subject: Re: UJB 144
Well said... I've been on this list for several months now and I don't even
own a Healey, but I love them, always have. If I'm lucky enough to acquire
one, I'll keep it until the day I die... not for investment reasons, just
because it's the car I've always dreamed of owning.
I had a neighbor tell me about a MK I for sale in a local paper, the ad ran
about a month ago, so my daughter and I are on a mission today to search the
archives for this sellers phone number... hopefully he didn't sell the car
and it's not a basket case!
Wish us luck,
Charlie
>
> I'll tell you....
>
> Love of money is highly questionable.
>
> Love of Healeys is, uh, far less questionable. ; )
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MegCC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 09:42:10 EDT
Subject: Re: BN 1, 2 Options
Ed and Jim
I also have the now chrome and rust colored value color on my BN1 also.
I imagine it will look great when it is finally re done.
Joe
Bn1 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Wood Jr" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 09:41:48 -0400
Subject: Healey Prices
Bob Denton said in his note to me that I was bad mouthing high prices for
Healeys. Not so, as I have gotten big dollars for most of the rare cars I
have sold. I would like to say again that I have loved every Healey car I
have owned and have said good by (buy) when they headed down the road. The
Ford GT40 I got by selling Jackie Cooper's 100S has also gone down the road
from my house and I loved it when I had it and miss it on occasion, but the
BN2 I now own was the actual Austin-Healey I fell in love with back in 1956
and no price in the world would cause me to sell it, even the prestigeous
auctions of Barrett-Jackson and Coys.
Money and high prices isn't everything when you collect the car of your
dreams. I have owned them all and the dollar signs were not the motive I
have had for any of them.
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 10:26:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Prices
Would you take $2,000,000 for it?..........I thought so!!
Bob
>but the
>BN2 I now own was the actual Austin-Healey I fell in love with back in 1956
>and no price in the world would cause me to sell it.
>Money and high prices isn't everything when you collect the car of your
>dreams. I have owned them all and the dollar signs were not the motive I
>have had for any of them.
>
>Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2001 10:57:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Prices
Hi Bill,
I cannot agree more with your observations on Healey values.
I was captivated by the exploits of Ross Jensen in his 100S in New
Zealand and the sight of him mixing it up with Jaguar D types and the
works Aston Martins constitute some of my earliest memories. The
ownership of AHS3903 is the realization of the dream that those memories
produced.
I intend to keep that car until such time as I'm unable to drive it
(unfortunately, something that I get very little opportunity to do at
present).
Although I'm intrigued by the high values that Healeys are bringing
today they do not provide me with any incentive to send " The Golden
Egg"* down the road.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
* Golden Egg is the name that former owner Bill Connella gave 3903 when
he raced it in 1/4 mile dirt track oval racing in the '60s with 283
c.d.i. Chevy power and gold paint !!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 09:56:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Prices
<<Would you take $2,000,000 for it?..........I thought so!!>>
Since you're NOT a Member of AHCA or AHCUSA, Bob you must not know "of" Bill
Wood or know him.
Trust me, it ain't for sale!
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA (20+ years)
Member, AHCUSA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 08:38:50 -0700
Subject: Re: BN 1, 2 Options
The 60 BT7 that I purchased 2 years ago had a chrome valve cover on
it. It is a stock looking style, but the car hadn't been running
since 1984 or 85 and I suspect that one of the POs either purchased or
had it chromed.
Mark Fawcett
>
> Ed Adams
> Our BN1 has been in our family since 1978. A chrome valve cover was
on the
> engine when the car was purchased. The filler cap and nuts were
chrome
> plated as well. I have no idea where the installation of this cover
took
> place or if it might have been a factory option. Additional
information may
> be available from one of the previous owners of this car. I would be
glad to
> contact him if it would be helpful to you. Photos of the valve cover
could
> also be provided. Off list contact may be of benefit since it
appears that
> our chrome valve covers are unusual at least.
> Jim Baustian
> 1955 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 14:07:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Prices
Bob, There are limits between love and common sense...$2,000,000 would be
about right...
Dave d.
'59 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 14:16:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Prices
Hi Gang,
Hey, the nice thing about high prices on Healeys is that it helps justify the
cost of restoration, both to ourselves and those who have them our spouses.
I agree that we own these cars for the sheer joy of ownership and driving
them but when you are looking at big dollars for restoration it is nice to
know you can justify the cost. If you put $20,000 or more into a $5000 car
it is still a $5000 car.
Dave Duffey
'59 BT 7
owned since 1971 and in storage for 20 years waiting for the opportunity to
restore it, which will finally start this year. Over those years I have had
several people offer to buy it including some who would pay what it was worth
and my standard answer has always been, "NO!"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 17:26:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Prices
In a message dated 9/8/01 10:27:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
boxweed@thebest.net writes:
> Would you take $2,000,000 for it?..........I thought so!!
>
> Bob
>
>
A brilliant question Bob--Would you pay that?
Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 22:30:41 -0400
Subject: Coil Springs
List:
Does anyone know what the uncompressed height of the front springs on a BT7
should be. The only reference I can find is 12 1/2 inches, but I am not
sure of this figure, particularly in view of the fact that my springs
measure about 10 1/2 inches.
Cheers,
John Cope
62 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 02:35:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Which UJB143 ?
Hi Chris,
What you say is correct about the two UJB143s. The rally UB143 was owned
and restored by Roger Rayson of Melbourne in 1980.
UJB144 was not the spare car at Sebring. UJB140 was the spare car and it
wore the race number P during the race. It was never of the track. It was
there for parts. It is now in up state New York and had a V8 in it at one
time.
UJB144, on the other hand was the fifth car prepared for Sebring but it
never went to Sebring. It was shipped to Canada and was raced by Brian
Roundtree in the five major races run in Ontario in 1960. This is all well
documented and I have photographs of all of these UJB cars on the track or
pits as the case may be.
Cheers, Bill
Former owner of UJB141
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 12:48:10 +0100
Subject: Brake calliper dripping. Servo rubber tip. Bleed issue.
1) I've had various brake issues recently. And thank you to all
who replied re dripping brake calliper query. Yes, it seems
likely that the rubber seal between the two halves was u/s and
yes, heat was the issue.
2) Heat- that was my fault. My servo used to stick from time to
time, as do so many. It used to just stick on a little, so you'd
not notice. Well, at least I plainly didn't this one time as the
calliper got hot enough to fry the rubber piston dust covers and,
presumably, the inner seal. I elected to get a factory,
so-called, rebuilt calliper rather that soldiering on with my old
one. I'd noticed that the pads would stick, even if the thing was
on the bench - maybe that's what caused the heat - and I think
the old calliper may be a tiny bit warped/distorted. Anyhow the
new one is much better; the pads slide like new.
3) I was forced to face up to removing the servo and doing what I
should have done before. Namely:
replace the big, top, gasket.
clean out the filter
polish the bore.
grease the leather with correct, foul, goo.
see to the rubber inner spacer. This is the bit that gets so much
coverage on this list.....it's usually too bulky and inhibits
movement.
If you read the books, or talk to the re-manufacturers, you will
see that the spring should toss the piston across the room when
you take the cover off. It usually doesn't and that's the sign of
a problem. My man said that you need:
a clean bore
more grease than you'd ever expect
the right rubber in the right quantity.
I stuck the servo in a big old wooden jawed vice and played
around with various quantities of rubber. For mine, and I guess
that's for mine only, the correct formula was:
to get exactly the right length of rubber to go once round the
cylinder inside the leather
cut it in half and put one half aside.
cut that half into 4 equal lengths
space those round at equal intervals.
That gave just the right seal whilst allowing the piston to move
and return.
3) Finally, with servo back on and new calliper ditto, I came to
bleed the brakes. I have an easi-bleed pipe and reckoned I'd be
alright. But no, damned if I could get the sponginess out of the
system. Absolutely useless. Huge effing and blinding.
On about my fifth re-read of the BMC manual, I noticed a little
aside. "IF THE BLEEDING OF ANY CYLINDER CONTINUES WITHOUT SUCCESS
FOR A CONSIDERABLE TIME, IT IS POSSIBLE THAT AIR IS BEING DRAWN
IN PAST THE BLEEDER SCREW THREADS. IN SUCH CASES, TIGHTEN THE
BLEEDER SCREW AT THE END OF EACH DOWN-WARD STROKE OF THE PEDAL
AND ALLOW THE PEDAL TO RETURN FULLY BEFORE RE-OPENING IT. CLOSE
THE BLEEDER SCREW FINALLY DURING THE LAST PEDAL APPLICATION."
Note that final "during". This was very sound advice and it
solved the problem at once. My guess is that the easi-bleed pipe
forces the system to suck fluid from the reservoir and to try to
suck air from the thread/wheel cylinder. If the brakes are 40 or
so yrs old, then there may easily be somewhere for the air to
squeeze back in. Certainly was in mine!
And just think, the book was written when the cars were new - so
they must have experienced it often enough on new vehicles.
Anyhow, just something to pass on. I could have saved myself
hours.........
Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 07:59:23 EDT
Subject: Axles
I have a friend who has started a modest Sprite Vintage Racing effort and
asked the following question:
"'direct me to an explanation of how to tell superior Spridget rear axles
from the early, inferior sort. I hope so, since I broke one at the most
recent vintage races and have a lead on a couple of used axles.""
Any tips that I can pass along?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Check out the new Austin Healey Coffee Mugs at Bluegrassclub.com
Check out the new Austin Healey License Plates at Bluegrassclub.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ruesinkl at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 12:11:31 EDT
Subject: BJ8 value
I've located a 1966 BJ8 which had a compelete frame up restoration by
Absolutely British in 1995. Car is in excellent shape, body is perfect,
drive train has 5,000 miles on it since restoration. Paint, interior and
trim all are in great shape. Car also has 72 spoke chrome wire wheels. The
car looks and runs real nice. All numbers (body,
engine, chassis) match British Motor Heritage info. Owner is asking $35,000.
Is a price in the mid 30's too much for this kind car? Would appreciate any
advice
or comments on car values.
thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 12:40:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Seeking 100/6 or 3000 Non-overdrive Gearboxes
Makes me wonder whether it would be practical to make a "Non-Overdrive"
gearbox by simply leaving out all the OD guts except the cone clutch and
springs. Maybe could save a few pounds in a racecar that doesn't need OD.
(3.5 Diff).
Any thoughts from the experts?
Jim.
Healey Hundred vintage racer
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
To: "Gary Black (Hexagon Transportation Consultants)" <gblack@hextrans.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: Seeking 100/6 or 3000 Non-overdrive Gearboxes
>
> Hi Gary,
>
> As I recall there are 3 mainshafts for non overdrive boxes 1B3720,
AEC3362,
> 22B177 and 4 input (drive) gears AEC3259 AEC3258 (Which may be the same)
AEC3472,
> 22B140.
> Which ones ar you after?
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> "Gary Black (Hexagon Transportation Consultants)" wrote:
>
> > Hello Listers,
> >
> > Does anyone have any non-overdrive gearboxes he or she would like to get
> > rid of? I'm specifically interested in the input shaft and main shaft,
but
> > I will take the whole box if that is easier. Please e-mail me direct.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 13:11:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Prices
Hello fellow Healeyphiles,
I would like to weigh in on this pricing issue. There is a down and a down
to this price increase madness. The first down is that those wanting to
purchase a Healey are going to be paying a high price. The other down is
that as we maintain and restore our Healeys the prices for the parts are
going to be going up. That isn't speculation, it is fact. If you chart the
pricing on parts versus the value of the better Healeys you will see a
direct correlation. You don't need a degree in statistics to see that one.
The only way a person comes out financially on a 'paid for' restoration is
that if the cars continue to go up in 'cost to purchase' over the coming
years. The reason so many of us pay the big checks to get the cars restored
has very little to do with considering the Healey a financial investment.
For those of you doing it for that reason please move on to something else,
like real estate or bonds. (chuckle) Leave the Healeys to those of us that
appreciate all of the endearing qualities of the Healeys and the many
friends we have made in that effort.
My personal wishes would be that the cars stay economical and available to
the average person. I have all the Healeys I ever expect to own and would
like the parts needed to complete and maintain to be affordable for an
average working stiff. I would also like the cars to stay economical so
that future generations can afford to buy them from your estate when the
time comes. If we don't get started on doing a good job of laying the
ground work for getting the younger generation interested in the cars we are
going to have a real marketing nightmare on our hands in a decade or two.
The cars will either be so revered and costly that only the most wealthy of
people will be able to afford them, or they will be so cheap they will
almost fall into the throw away category because no one wants them because
that era of potentially interested people have never been exposed to the
world of Healeys to realize they can be a lot of fun to drive, etc.. If the
market goes either of those two ways then parts will most certainly be very
hard to come by. The only reason we have plenty of parts available now is
that a lot of us are restoring and maintaining the Healeys. Once that
volume drops then the manufacturers and resellers won't be interested in
making and selling parts that aren't being purchased in a volume that allows
them to make a profit. They will move onto something else.
I have had so much enjoyment and pleasure from the Healeys and the fellow
owners that have become friends that this is definitely a life event for me.
On that basis the only way pricing of parts and cars benefits me is for both
to be affordable. Sorry that my philanthropic side is not showing here but
sometimes you have to take care of family and home first. Not being
selfish, just practical.
Happy Healeying,
Mike Schneider
Bluegrass AHC
AN5, AN6, AN7, BN2
----- Original Message -----
From: <N5572B@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2001 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: Healey Prices
>
> Hi Gang,
> Hey, the nice thing about high prices on Healeys is that it helps justify
the
> cost of restoration, both to ourselves and those who have them our
spouses.
> I agree that we own these cars for the sheer joy of ownership and driving
> them but when you are looking at big dollars for restoration it is nice to
> know you can justify the cost. If you put $20,000 or more into a $5000
car
> it is still a $5000 car.
> Dave Duffey
> '59 BT 7
> owned since 1971 and in storage for 20 years waiting for the opportunity
to
> restore it, which will finally start this year. Over those years I have
had
> several people offer to buy it including some who would pay what it was
worth
> and my standard answer has always been, "NO!"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 12:51:25 -0500
Subject: Healey Values
I started a thread regarding Healey Values, and asked the question "What do
we think our cars are worth?" I posted it to the list and I think I received
four replies, three on list and one direct to me.
I was trying to research what we as owners think our cars are valued at,
realistically. There are some on the list who will always downgrade other
peoples cars and think theirs is worth the "big bucks".
I think there are about four factors that are involved in value.
1. Condition.
2. Rarity
3. Market
4. Economy.
Condition being whether the car is a daily driver, a basket case, a twenty
footer, or a concours restored blue ribbon winner. Then there are various
shades in between.
Rarity plays a factor in every automobile, boat, gun, coin, home, or most
any other thing. If there are 2 million 1954 Corvettes floating around
their value is smaller than if there are (more likely) 10,000 1954 Corvettes
out there. And a 1909 S VDB Lincoln Penny is worth more than a 1970 Lincoln
Penny.
Market is what the market will pay. If I can find a buyer for my 1962 BN7
two seat tri-carb who is willing to pay $60,000 I would consider selling.
In the face of reality, however, I would be lucky to get half that. There
are some people with more money than brains, though. A "Jay Leno" or a "Tom
Cruise" might pay $60G because that's a drop in the bucket to them if they
find something they want.
Economy is simply whether times are good. I sometimes think that when times
are good is the best time to sell, but then who needs the money when times
are good? If I had a dollar for every offer I've had for my car I wouldn't
have to sell it.
(AND IT IS NOT FOR SALE)
I submitted a short article to Healey Marque concerning values. I hope they
publish it.
Thanks for your time.
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 11:09:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Air Conditioning Photo & Info
Hi Team,
Following the discussion of Austin-Healey air conditioning a few days ago, I
updated my little website with some info and a photo that may be of interest
to you. It's on the third page of the website. See:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 15:43:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Prices
Yeah, Mike, I said the exact same thing about old Ferraris in the 70's. Then I
could pick up a GTO for under $10,000, no problem. I bought a 330 Spider for
$5,000 had a lot of fun with it and sold it for five times what I paid for it.
Today it's worth much more than that.
If the prices stop growing. you loose. If you can't afford to play, you get out.
I'm hoping to Healeys go higher and higher. And even higher yet.
Bob Denton
Mike wrote:
> Hello fellow Healeyphiles,
>
> I would like to weigh in on this pricing issue. There is a down and a down
> to this price increase madness. The first down is that those wanting to
> purchase a Healey are going to be paying a high price. The other down is
> that as we maintain and restore our Healeys the prices for the parts are
> going to be going up. That isn't speculation, it is fact. If you chart the
> pricing on parts versus the value of the better Healeys you will see a
> direct correlation. You don't need a degree in statistics to see that one.
>
> The only way a person comes out financially on a 'paid for' restoration is
> that if the cars continue to go up in 'cost to purchase' over the coming
> years. The reason so many of us pay the big checks to get the cars restored
> has very little to do with considering the Healey a financial investment.
> For those of you doing it for that reason please move on to something else,
> like real estate or bonds. (chuckle) Leave the Healeys to those of us that
> appreciate all of the endearing qualities of the Healeys and the many
> friends we have made in that effort.
>
> My personal wishes would be that the cars stay economical and available to
> the average person. I have all the Healeys I ever expect to own and would
> like the parts needed to complete and maintain to be affordable for an
> average working stiff. I would also like the cars to stay economical so
> that future generations can afford to buy them from your estate when the
> time comes. If we don't get started on doing a good job of laying the
> ground work for getting the younger generation interested in the cars we are
> going to have a real marketing nightmare on our hands in a decade or two.
> The cars will either be so revered and costly that only the most wealthy of
> people will be able to afford them, or they will be so cheap they will
> almost fall into the throw away category because no one wants them because
> that era of potentially interested people have never been exposed to the
> world of Healeys to realize they can be a lot of fun to drive, etc.. If the
> market goes either of those two ways then parts will most certainly be very
> hard to come by. The only reason we have plenty of parts available now is
> that a lot of us are restoring and maintaining the Healeys. Once that
> volume drops then the manufacturers and resellers won't be interested in
> making and selling parts that aren't being purchased in a volume that allows
> them to make a profit. They will move onto something else.
>
> I have had so much enjoyment and pleasure from the Healeys and the fellow
> owners that have become friends that this is definitely a life event for me.
> On that basis the only way pricing of parts and cars benefits me is for both
> to be affordable. Sorry that my philanthropic side is not showing here but
> sometimes you have to take care of family and home first. Not being
> selfish, just practical.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Mike Schneider
> Bluegrass AHC
> AN5, AN6, AN7, BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 15:27:25 -0500
Subject: Speedo Palsy
Listers,
I have been following the threads on speedo and tach. problems, but
didn't see a fix for this problem yet.
This is on my 76 MGB with O/D. At around 40 miles an hour the needle
starts to fluctuate considerably. I have swapped to a good gauge, cables,
and cleaned and even swapped out the junction counter box between the upper
cable and lower cable. I even tried a new longer pre emissions O/D cable.
I cleaned and checked the condition of the drive pinion gear in the side of
the trany.
Nothing I have done will stabilized my needle above 40 miles an hour.
To you trany people, is there anything inside the transmission that
could cause this and if so why above 40 and not below.
Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 14:46:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Bugeye For Sale & Rendezvous Pics
Hi Team,
Here are a few pics of the 2001 Healey Rendezvous:
http://members9.clubphoto.com/reid458791/501783/guest.phtml
I've also got a Bugeye for sale if anyone's interested. Although I'm in
Tampa, Florida, the car is located in Portland, Oregon:
http://members9.clubphoto.com/reid458791/498786/guest.phtml
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 18:05:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Trailer Hitch
In a message dated 9/7/01 10:39:59 PM, thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
<< Hey, Gary. You dissin' my trailer? Well, your car is the wrong color
blue.
So there. Now we're even.
:-? (tongue in cheek) >>
I would never diss the ORIGINAL. However, with all the copies floating
around now, not done nearly so well or efficiently, I figured it was time to
move on. Wouldn't you prefer to see a neat teardrop trailer parked next to
your well-done camping kit?
<Grins back>
Incidentally, Brasilia Models makes a very neat 1/43 scale teardrop that I
have on my bookcase being pulled by a Triumph Herald, though it was original
made to match a Chrysler Woodie.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 18:26:16 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 value
It's never a good idea to offer comments on the value of a specific car, but
I would say in a generic way that if this car is EXACTLY as represented, i.e.
it WAS restored by Absolutely British, and they did a full frame-up, it's
only been driven 5,000 miles since the resto and is in excellent shape, then
it is easily comparable to cars that have recently sold at auction for prices
from $35,000 to $48,000 (and, in one case --probabaly with two half-soused
buyers bidding against one another late in the evening as high as
$75,000...But that was an anomaly.) I would say that a condition 1-minus BJ8
is now comfortably in the mid-thirties.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
In a message dated 9/9/01 9:14:01 AM, Ruesinkl@aol.com writes:
<< I've located a 1966 BJ8 which had a compelete frame up restoration by
Absolutely British in 1995. Car is in excellent shape, body is perfect,
drive train has 5,000 miles on it since restoration. Paint, interior and
trim all are in great shape. Car also has 72 spoke chrome wire wheels. The
car looks and runs real nice. All numbers (body,
engine, chassis) match British Motor Heritage info. Owner is asking $35,000.
Is a price in the mid 30's too much for this kind car? Would appreciate any
advice
or comments on car values. >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 18:10:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Speedo Palsy
Mark,
I'm prepared to bet that your inner cable has the wrong "lay". In the same
way that American's drive on the wrong side of the road, race their cars and
horses the wrong way around a track they also wind their speedo cables
backwards. As they age, they try to unwind at higher rev's.
Try an inner cable with a British lay and your problem will disappear.
Cheers, "Bob".
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 19:28:50 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 value
<<I've located a 1966 BJ8 which had a compelete frame up restoration by
Absolutely British in 1995.>>
I concur with Gary, Mr. NoName.
I would also suggest that guessing car is still in CA that there are a
couple of shops (ABII, for one) that would go over the car for you.
Also, contacting Members of either(and/or both) AHCUSA & AHCA would allow to
find VERY knowledgeable Healey folks, most of whom would be happy to assist
you assessing the car.
Regards.........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA (20+ years)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Hinsdale, IL USA
www.justbrits.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 22:28:44 EDT
Subject: Watkin's Glen report
Just made it back to Baltimore from Watkin's Glen--my first long trip since
returning from Conclave and the cracked cylinder head incident. No problems
and the car ran great.
Saw lots of Healey folks up there--Bob & Joanne Sweeny and Fred Hoover of AHS&
T, Steve & Marlene Byers from North Carolina, and of course the Capital
Area's very own Dan Healey (no relation....) sans car.
The weather was fantastic and the driving conditions were perfect. On the
racing front only one Big Healey--a green and yellow 100--was on the track
today. He was holding his own until about two laps from the end and had to
pit briefly for some reason, came out on the next-to-last lap in last place
but managed to get by two 3-cylinder SAAB's to uphold the marque's honor. A
midget won the class followed closely by a superfast 190SL!
Best to all--Michael Oritt (BN1)
St. Leonard, Md.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 23:30:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: BN-1,2 Options
Ed Adams wrote:
>
> Having not received any replies to this I'm trying again. No answer this
> time I'll give up.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >
> >I understand (rightly or wrongly?) that chrome plated valve covers were an
> >available option on these cars.
> >
> >Where were they installed - dealer or factory?
Ed:
To be technically correct: yes, they were available as a 'factory'
option, according to a May 3, 1956 Donald Healey Motor Co. Ltd price
sheet. It listed (among other things):
"Chromium plated rocker cover and Chromium plated air cleaners
(price of the three items on exchange basis)..............4 pounds, 4
shillings"
But please understand: It would be unlikely that these items would be
installed on a car destined for the US in the normal course of
commerce. The above quote is from a price list only distributed in
England, and likely only available at the Donald Healey Motor Co. Put
simply, you wouldn't be likely to get this stuff unless you were
actually there on the Healey premisis with your car. The same price
list notes several 'options' unheard of in the USA. To further muddy up
the water: these options were NOT installed at the Longbridge factory
where the cars were actually made...but were installed (like the
aftermarket pieces they were) on already-completed cars that had made
their way back to the Donald Healey Motor Co in Warwick. So an
arguement could be made either way as to whether these items were
"factory installed" or "dealer installed". Except that in the above
case, the "dealer" was the designer of the car...but not its' BUILDER!
Confused, yet?
But from personal observation, I know that many US dealers had them
hanging on the wall behind the parts counter, or in a showcase,
available as cash-and-carry over the parts counter, or, if you were
buying a new car, they'd install it for you. In actual fact, what I
just described I witnessed regarding the 6-cyl cars (but 4-cyl chrome
covers were on offer, as well, at that time), as I worked in a Texas
Austin Healey dealership only during the later 6-cyl period. I'm just
assuming that dealers offered them during the 4-cyl years as well.
At least three types, perhaps more, of 'chromed' valve covers were
offered for the 100/4. One looked like a chromed stock valve cover; the
second was an aluminum cover with the words (in script) "Austin-Healey"
cast into the smooth upper surface (owners sometimes buffed these covers
to a 'chrome-like' finish); the third was a longitudinally ribbed
aluminum cover. All these were readily available via mail order from
suppliers of sports car specialty equipment during the 4-cyl era and
long after. And it was common for owners to simply remove their stock
valve cover and have it chromed at the local chrome shop. This was
often cheaper than buying the chrome one via mail order.
If you wish to display your car with such a 'chrome' cover, it would be
wise to search out an ad for your particular type in a period auto
publication. Concours judges might then be more willing to allow such a
mod.
Best regards,
Fred Hunter
AHS-3804/SPL-224B
The wolf
Who longs
To roam and prowl
Should shave before
He starts to howl
--Burma-Shave--
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BigHealey64 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 11:16:59 EDT
Subject: Healey sighting
Parked at the Natick Auto Clinic, MA (RT 9): 1961 Blue 100-6
Anyone on the list?
Randy
64 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 09:33:36 -0700
Subject: SD Healey Hearsay Electronic Edition updated
Hi,
I just uploaded the September issue, featuring my article and photos from
Rendezvous 2001 in Grants Pass: www.sdhealey.org/hh. Enjoy.
Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, California
Vice President/Membership Coordinator
Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
Editor, Healey Hearsay <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 12:40:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Axles
In a message dated 9/9/01 5:01:36 AM, Jwhlyadv@aol.com writes:
<< "'direct me to an explanation of how to tell superior Spridget rear axles
from the early, inferior sort. I hope so, since I broke one at the most
recent vintage races and have a lead on a couple of used axles.""
Any tips that I can pass along? >>
I would strongly recommend he buy a little book called "How to Power Tune the
Midget and Sprite for Road and Track." by Daniel Stapleton in the Speedpro
series published by Veloce Books isbn 1874105685. This will give him a wealth
of tips including a specific answer to the question he asks. (We offer the
book through British Car Bookshop 800-520-8292 and I'm sure that it's
available from other sources).
Cheers
Gary Anderson
British Car magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 12:46:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Values
In a message dated 9/9/01 10:49:30 AM, donyarber@earthlink.net writes:
<< I think there are about four factors that are involved in value.
1. Condition.
2. Rarity
3. Market
4. Economy. >>
Appraisers and the market definitely take into account each of the above
factorys -- However, you have to add one more. Call it elegance, panache,
verve, whatever -- it's what differentiates a Healey from other cars produced
in equally small numbers, and in equally good condition. It also explains,
for example, why Jaguar C-types are worth more today than many other marque
race cars that could be bought new for exactly the same price.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 13:03:04 -0400
Subject: wipers
OK-here's one for you.
I have just replaced the wiper motor-what a hell of a job that is. Anyway I
started the wipers and the drivers side wiper was perfect but the passengers
wiper ran backwards. How in the devil did that happen and how do I fix it?
Carl A. Rubino
ruvino@recorder.ca
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 11:09:37 -0600
Subject: RE: wipers
Hi,
You have probably installed one of the two "gearboxes" backwards, or
upside-down, depending on your point of view.
Both units should be hanging down, pointing in the same direction when you
look at the assembled motor and shaft assembly.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Dr. C Rubino [mailto:ruvino@recorder.ca]
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2001 10:03 AM
To: healeys
Subject: wipers
OK-here's one for you.
I have just replaced the wiper motor-what a hell of a job that is. Anyway I
started the wipers and the drivers side wiper was perfect but the passengers
wiper ran backwards. How in the devil did that happen and how do I fix it?
Carl A. Rubino
ruvino@recorder.ca
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 13:36:35 -0400
Subject: Re: wipers
Hi Carl,
I suspect that you have installed one of the wheel boxes upside down as
in rack above the box rather than below.
Would be sort of unique if you could get it working properly... would
look like an old Chevy ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 21:28:33 +0100
Subject: Re: Which UJB143 ?
Dear Listers,
As I posted the original comment I would like to confirm that this is
exactly the understanding that I have from talking to others in the
fraternity and from the reference books.
If Tony is getting this, I would be very grateful if he could tell us
something about the body mods to the car.
As to price, my surprise was at the 50% hike in the price in about nine
months. It's a lot more than inflation ;-) and means that those of us
who would seriously like one day to own one of these beasts can see
prices rapidlty disappearing over the horizon. Further it would be a
shame to see prices go through the roof again as they did in the late
80s/early 90s only to crash through the floor shortly thereafter.
Happy Healeying,
Peter Dzwig
Chris Dimmock wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>I suspect there is a little confusion here between the 'two' UJB 143s and
>UJB 144...
>
>My understanding is:
>
>UJB143 was first affixed to a 'Green' Sebring car for Sebring 1960, and Le
>Mans 1960. This green car was then sold to a privateer, Dave Dixon, who re
>registered it DD300 (his personalised plates). This is the famous John
>Chatham car DD300 - John had been racing this car for longer than even he
>can remember... and its history is well documented. It was a 'green' circuit
>car (ie a Geoff Healey prepared car) - not a 'red' rally car. Dixon raced
>the car at Le Mans in 1961 and 1962 with his own drivers (refered to on
>P178 of "Works Big Healeys)
>When the green Sebring car UJB143 was sold - as was the usual procedure (ask
>Joe Armour!!) - the competitions department reused the UJB143 plates -
>affixing them to a new RED/white hardtop Rally car - the car Pat Moss ran in
>the 1962 Tour of Corsica and Riley drove in the 1961 Midnight Sun rally.
>This red rally car - registered UJB143 - was recently sold by Tony
>Parkinson of South Australia, and went to the UK. Tony had raced this car at
>Bathurst in the 1998 All Healey races - a red car with a white roof - and
>John Chatham (also a competitor at Bathurst 1998) - and owner of DD300
>(originally registered UJB143) confirmed this is what had happened with the
>regos - and that the two UJB143s were dramatically different cars. I think
>the ex-Tony Parkinson car is the coys auction car at http://www.coys.co.uk/
>
>I have copied this post to Tony Parkinson - is it your old UJB143 up for
>sale at Coys Tony??
>
>By the way, the book "The Works Big Healeys" has got the story of UJB143 ALL
>WRONG in their car summary. If you look at page 215, it indicates that there
>was one car registered UJB143 - and implies it was both a works 'circuit
>car' in 1960 - and a works 'rally' car in 1961 and 1962 - and also refers to
>UJB143 running at Le Mans in private hands in 1961 and 1962. Hardly likely
>or feasible that it was the same car - resprayed between events? - and ran
>LeMans and rallies in the same years!!!!!!!!! Rally cars are dramatically
>different to circuit cars.
>
>UJB144 is a "green" car - the 'spare' 1960 Sebring car - and effectively the
>'sister car' to John Chathams DD300 - a circuit car.
>see http://208.195.144.206/Auctions/30/Catalog_6.html
>or http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/austinhl/a76686/a76686ss.htm
>
>Thats my understanding - feel free to correct me if I'm wrong - but most of
>this stuff is very well documented - and the relevant owners I'm sure have
>all the appropriate supporting paperwork (eg FIA papers with engine/chassis
>numbers).
>
>Hope this clarifies rather than confuses....
>
>Chris
>______________________________________
>
>Chris Dimmock
>Sydney Australia
>1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
>'one of the first and one of the last'
>http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
>______________________________________
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Peter Dzwig" <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2001 7:16 AM
>Subject: UJB 143
>
>
>>Guys,
>>
>>on th e subject of values.....UJB 144 - which went at the back end of
>>last year for mid-#40k (#48k??) is on sale from Coys of Kensington
>>(http://www.coys.co.uk/) for #75k. I had to look twice myself. Looks
>>like somebody is looking for a large return on the investment especially
>>after there were questions asked about it left, right and centre, not a
>>few of which were on this discussion group!
>>
>>Peter Dzwig
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 17:58:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Prices
Hi Folks!
well since i've had Agnes longer than i had my Dad(she was his 1st race car,and
as
my Mom said," the first car she ever bought on monthly payments ,$35. a month ,
a
lotta money back then"!!( and she was used) ....i'll have to turn down trades
for
S's and UJB's and even the 2M cash........remind me to tell y'all some time
about
the brand new gullwing Mercedes her grand paw
didn't buy her NEW for $5000. because "he didn't know if those Furrin' cars
would
last and the nearest dealer was in New Orleans...they lived in
Natchez,MS.............she ended up w/ a Willys station wagon @ 14 before she
could
get a driver's license.......sp....@16.
Ho(why was i born too late)Yo
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> > I would like to weigh in on this pricing issue. There is a down and a down
> > to this price increase madness. The first down is that those wanting to
> > purchase a Healey are going to be paying a high price. The other down is
> > that as we maintain and restore our Healeys the prices for the parts are
> > going to be going up. That isn't speculation, it is fact. If you chart the
> > pricing on parts versus the value of the better Healeys you will see a
> > direct correlation. You don't need a degree in statistics to see that one.
> >
> > The only way a person comes out financially on a 'paid for' restoration is
> > that if the cars continue to go up in 'cost to purchase' over the coming
> > years. The reason so many of us pay the big checks to get the cars restored
> > has very little to do with considering the Healey a financial investment.
> > For those of you doing it for that reason please move on to something else,
> > like real estate or bonds. (chuckle) Leave the Healeys to those of us that
> > appreciate all of the endearing qualities of the Healeys and the many
> > friends we have made in that effort.
> >
> > My personal wishes would be that the cars stay economical and available to
> > the average person. I have all the Healeys I ever expect to own and would
> > like the parts needed to complete and maintain to be affordable for an
> > average working stiff. I would also like the cars to stay economical so
> > that future generations can afford to buy them from your estate when the
> > time comes. If we don't get started on doing a good job of laying the
> > ground work for getting the younger generation interested in the cars we are
> > going to have a real marketing nightmare on our hands in a decade or two.
> > The cars will either be so revered and costly that only the most wealthy of
> > people will be able to afford them, or they will be so cheap they will
> > almost fall into the throw away category because no one wants them because
> > that era of potentially interested people have never been exposed to the
> > world of Healeys to realize they can be a lot of fun to drive, etc.. If the
> > market goes either of those two ways then parts will most certainly be very
> > hard to come by. The only reason we have plenty of parts available now is
> > that a lot of us are restoring and maintaining the Healeys. Once that
> > volume drops then the manufacturers and resellers won't be interested in
> > making and selling parts that aren't being purchased in a volume that allows
> > them to make a profit. They will move onto something else.
> >
> > I have had so much enjoyment and pleasure from the Healeys and the fellow
> > owners that have become friends that this is definitely a life event for me.
> > On that basis the only way pricing of parts and cars benefits me is for both
> > to be affordable. Sorry that my philanthropic side is not showing here but
> > sometimes you have to take care of family and home first. Not being
> > selfish, just practical.
> >
> > Happy Healeying,
> >
> > Mike Schneider
> > Bluegrass AHC
> > AN5, AN6, AN7, BN2
>
> .
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 19:35:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Watkins Glen report
And Michael fails to mention that his beautiful red 100 took a prize in the
car show at Watkins Glen. That was quite a feat, considering that the class
was "Post-WW II Foreign", and there were a bunch of cars belonging to a
bunch of marques in that class! As usual at the Watkings Glen antique car
show, Healeys were thin on the ground, but there were plenty of Jags,
Triumphs, MGs, Morrises and one Riley. The only other BJ8s attending
besides mine were both registered with the State of New York as BJ7s, having
lost their original identification plates but finding some BJ7 plates as
replacements.
Congrats, Michael! Glad you had no more problems with the car during the
trip. TARHEELY also made the 1,581 mile round trip without incident.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 TARHEELY
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2001 10:28 PM
Subject: Watkin's Glen report
>
> Just made it back to Baltimore from Watkin's Glen--my first long trip
since
> returning from Conclave and the cracked cylinder head incident. No
problems
> and the car ran great.
>
> Saw lots of Healey folks up there--Bob & Joanne Sweeny and Fred Hoover of
AHS&
> T, Steve & Marlene Byers from North Carolina, and of course the Capital
> Area's very own Dan Healey (no relation....) sans car.
>
> The weather was fantastic and the driving conditions were perfect. On the
> racing front only one Big Healey--a green and yellow 100--was on the track
> today. He was holding his own until about two laps from the end and had
to
> pit briefly for some reason, came out on the next-to-last lap in last
place
> but managed to get by two 3-cylinder SAAB's to uphold the marque's honor.
A
> midget won the class followed closely by a superfast 190SL!
>
> Best to all--Michael Oritt (BN1)
> St. Leonard, Md.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 19:44:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Watkins Glen report
<<Congrats, Michael! >>
AGREED!!!!!, Steve.
<< Glad you had no more problems with the car during the trip.>>
Yeah, AGREED. He "almost" broke my diving board!!!!
<< TARHEELY also made the 1,581 mile round trip without incident.??
And your point is???? I would "expect" nothing less!!
Best..........
Ed
PS: Elkhart is STILL better!!!!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 06:55:06 -0400
Subject: Test - no content
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 07:48:16 EDT
Subject: Mike Lempert's differential project
Has anyone heard anything from Mike lately? I have sent him a few emails but
have nad no response.
Best to all--Michael Oritt (BN1)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 18:40:42 +0100
Subject: Terrorist attack
Sincerest condolences to our American cousins.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Tysonoxford at aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 13:58:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Which UJB143 ?
Bill,
UBJ140 was at the "Glen" this past weekend. Unfortunately for Bob it put a
rod completely through the block at Friday practice and did not run. He is
looking for a 1960 Block or engine. If anyone can help call:
Bob Deull 716 731 9623
Mal Bruce
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 15:07:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Terrorist attack
I don't have the words to describe what I feel about today's events. I feel
for all that will be changed by this nightmare. I sat here at work
today...out in the parking lot...smoking my cigarette. Looking at my Healey,
and thinking how quickly something like an old car can be meaningless.
What a world.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ward" <david@bighealey.ltd.uk>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 1:40 PM
Subject: Terrorist attack
>
> Sincerest condolences to our American cousins.
> David.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rscaglione at safjp.gov.ar
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 17:02:23 -0300
Subject: terrorist attack
My sorrows and condolences too
I feel the same when we receive in Argentina two bombs attack to Israel
Embassy and AMIA4s (jewish mutual office)
1990 and 1996 (from, I think, the same terrorists)
R. Scaglione
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 14:55:47 -0700
Subject: News from Healey International 2002
Contact: John Trifari
OpenRoads 2002
408-541-9608
408-541-9320 FAX
408-373-6479 Cellphone
john4@home.com
Additional hotel rooms now available for
OpenRoads 2002 Lake Tahoe International
Host hotel rapidly filling as rooms are reserved;
Paid registrations now approach 400
SUNNYVALE California (USA) - September 10, 2001 To meet the increased
demands for hotel space in the Lake Tahoe area from those planning to
attend to OpenRoads 2002 Healey International, the Golden Gate Austin
Healey Club Inc., sponsor and organizer of the event, has arranged for
165 additional rooms at two other sites in the area.
Seventy-five more rooms will be available at a nearby hotel; 90 more
rooms at a location across the state line in California, a short walking
distance from the host hotel, the Horizon Casino and Resort.
Confirmation letters sent out after September 15, 2001 to those
registering for the 2002 Healey International will include reservation
phone numbers and rates for these additional rooms, along with the
attendees registration number.
We have been overwhelmed by the worldwide enthusiasm for this event,
said event Chairman Loren Cross. Registrations just keep coming in and
so far we now count close to 400 paid registrations for the eventand
were still over nine months away. Some are already speculating that
this international meeting of Healey owners and enthusiasts will turn
out to be the largest meeting of its type ever held.
The OpenRoads 2002 Healey International will run from Sunday June 23,
2002 to Friday June 28, 2002. The event celebrates the 50th anniversary
of the first Austin-Healey, the 100, and the popularity and longevity of
all Austin-Healeys, Austin-Healey Sprites and Jensen-Healeys, as well as
all Healeys built prior to 1952.
A registration form can be downloaded from the OpenRoads 2002 web site
at http://www.healey2002.com, or taken from the July 2001 issue of
Healey Marque or the August 2001 issue of Austin Healey Magazine.
Registration is $89 per car (one registration number/two adults)
additional cars and registration numbers are $30 each; additional
registrants are $30 each. All prices are US dollars.
###
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 18:04:36 -0400
Subject: An act of War NHC
It's reprehensible. I trust the President will listen to the Vice
President who is most capable of dealing an indigestible hand to those
responsible. My thoughts and prayers are with the victims and their
families.
Jim Dalglish
Once a vet
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 18:21:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Speedo Palsy
Bob
Where would one obtain such a "British lay" inner speedo cable?
Thanks in advance
DickB
Bob Rich wrote:
> Mark,
>
> I'm prepared to bet that your inner cable has the wrong "lay". In the same
> way that American's drive on the wrong side of the road, race their cars and
> horses the wrong way around a track they also wind their speedo cables
> backwards. As they age, they try to unwind at higher rev's.
>
> Try an inner cable with a British lay and your problem will disappear.
>
> Cheers, "Bob".
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 19:53:55 -0400
Subject: Looking for a BJ8 rear shroud
Hello, Healeyphiles!
If anyone can help Jim, please reply directly to him. Thanks!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: JIM SCHMID
To: byers@cconnect.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 7:31 PM
Subject: BJ8
Steve,
I know that you are in charge of the BJ8 registry. My reason for contacting
you is not for the registry but I'm looking for a rear shroud for my BJ8. Can
you HELP!!!??? I could use a damaged one if the left side is useable.
Jim Schmid
Billings, MT
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 19:02:18 -0500
Subject: God Bless America
" Freedom WILL be defended!!!"
You wanna give your life for your God,
Bring your ass here!
Howard Lee Young,Jr.
p.s. "Cruise,Baby,Cruise!!"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 18:05:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Speedo Palsy
Dick,
If I knew, I would tell you! I do not know names/addresses for British
suppliers but I would buy one from a UK business. Somebody must have a name
and address.
Cheers, "Bob".
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 17:27:29 +0100
Subject: Hayden Fan for BT7
What is the Hayden part number for their best fitting fan for the
Healey? What is the diameter and how many blades are on this fan?
It's my impression from list comments in the past that this fan, aka
Texas Cooler, also substantially reduces fan noise. Can anyone confirm
this because I seek to reduce the noise from my stock fan.
Thanks in advance,
Rich Locasso
BT7
Huntington Beach, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 19:15:45 -0500
Subject: U.S.
Pearl Harbor was a military operation,( no women ,no kids)
At that time Hawaii was a territory, not "American soil"......
It's worse than Pearl............." Fuggum and feed'em fishheads!"
HoYo
ps funny how peoughed an old hippy boy can get........
one of my sister's lives in N.y., thank God she moved from Man. to
Brooklyn.........i just heard 200 fire fighters were killed......my
grandfather was a fire fighter............US pilots should carry at
least handguns!! hly
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 09:51:31 +1000
Subject: terrorist attack
Hello
I was driving to the railway station this morning when I heard the most
tragic news.
My first feeling was just utter disbelief at the stupidity of some people in
this world. Then I just felt so unbelievably stunned followed by some tears.
The train carriage, normally filled with the noise of people chatting and
the like was sombre with people reflecting on the terrible news.
Our thoughts, wishes and prayers to all Americans and lovers of freedom at
this terrible time. May the right and proper retribution occur swiftly and
true.
Kinds Regards
Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sydney, Australia
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 19:35:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Report from DC
Jay:
Glad you are OK.
<<We kept looking nervously
toward the sky in the direction of the Capitol,...>>
EXACTLY!! Think about it. Departure from Dulles, either north or south
require a left turn from end of runway. If south to north route is used,
then a 180 is a POC. If north to south is used, left turn AIMS at Key
Bridge. And just a air mile south is what??
Worse yet, if the IDIOT driving the airplane had been able to keep the nose
up, what would be the next "target"?? The Moniment, Reflecting Pool, side
jog to White House/Exec. Building/Treasury, or on to The Capitol??
The latter being more logical, I think.
Could not beleive the late nooish pictue of Penn. Ave.: EMPTY !!
The "saddest" part of all this will be that (just guessing, mind you) when
the nut behind today is "found", he'll just go to jail for a few years. And
that is just guessing his "rights are not VIOLATED".
Next question is how did anybody grab a plane a Dulles in that short of
time?? HAD to be done DURING taxi!!
SHIT.
Ed
PS: Jessie is either on his way to NYC to "support folks" or on his way to
Afganastan to "protect rights"!! Right??
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 19:21:02 -0500
Subject: Terrorist Attack & God Bless America
Hello Lads
As like Patrick (Quinn), Margaret and I were on the road driving
north of Saskatoon early this morning when we heard the the news
of the events in New York and Washington.
Besides tears and anger in our limited discussion we could not
comprehend why someone would carry out such heinous act on
anyone.
Our thoughts and prayers tonight are for all Americans. Like all
citizens in democracies may freedom continue to flourish and may
those that trifle with it, as these terrorists, be brought to
justice.
Kind regards
Ed and Margaret Driver
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 21:49:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Report from DC
<<We need to send some folks to Afghanistan to put them under glass. I hear
enough
heat will turn sand into glass..............................>>
Yep, Brad. BUT, WAY too "quick"!!
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Roux Residence" <caroux at icon.co.za>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 06:48:39 +0200
Subject: Simpathy and Condolances
The Austin Healey Club of Southern Africa is mourning your tragic loss with
you.
Our condolences and sympathies to all of those who lost loved ones and
friends as a result of these cowardly terrorist attacks.
Anton Roux
Sandton
South Africa
Roux Residence
Tel (02711) 783 2823
Fax (02711) 783 2812
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 22:37:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Hayden Fan for BT7
The Hayden fan and the Texas Cooler are NOT the same fan. The Texas Cooler
is plastic. The Hayden is metal and I do not think it will reduce your fan
noise.
At the time that I installed my Hayden (1982?), they produced a 5 blade and
a 7 blade fan. I installed the 7 blade, 15 inch, Model 3715. It is called
the Hayden Swirl-flex. It has flexible blades that flatten out with
increased RPM. It is a noisy fan but the instructions tell how to minimize
the noise with proper shrouding. But it does pull in the air. I credit it
with keeping my Healey cool here in the Sacramento Valley.
Two things to be aware of, however. The mounting holes need to be filed out
about a 64th of an inch to match the bolt holes on the water pump. And,
depending on your car, the blades may be too long and hit the crank pully.
Loosen your fan belt and turn the fan by hand before trying to start your
engine. I had to trim off about an eighth or quarter of an inch from each
blade (made a pattern, marked each blade, and cut with tin snips). Did it
evenly enough that I did not have a balance problem. And - no spacer
needed.
Len. Vacaville, CA.
1967 3000 MkIII, BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 9:27 AM
Subject: Hayden Fan for BT7
>
> What is the Hayden part number for their best fitting fan for the
> Healey? What is the diameter and how many blades are on this fan?
>
> It's my impression from list comments in the past that this fan, aka
> Texas Cooler, also substantially reduces fan noise. Can anyone confirm
> this because I seek to reduce the noise from my stock fan.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Rich Locasso
> BT7
> Huntington Beach, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Raymond Feehan" <feehanr at home.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 00:55:22 -0600
Subject: Terrorist Attack
I flipped to the morning channel this morning and watched what I at first
believed to be a promo for an action film. My mind refused to accept at first
that this was being reported live from New York. It all seemed so surreal. My
heartfelt condolences to the surviving friends and relatives. I say find 'em
and nuke 'em once and for all. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 18:48:30 +1000
Subject: Condolences
My condolences and thoughts to all up North. After sitting up half the night
watching these horrifying event unfolding I was sure it was some kind of
movie but, unfortunately it was all too real.
Driving home from work today the radio stations asked drivers to turn on
their head-lights as a mark of respect. The highway was a blaze of lights,
so know that people down-under and, I'm sure, throughout the world are
thinking about you.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 03:26:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: A Sign of Respect
Dear Friends,
May I suggest, that as a sign of respect, we put aside our discussions of
cars and parts and restorations and the pleasures of driving for a day or
two in the wake of the death of probably 10,000+ Americans in the largest
attack on the United States in history?
Thank you to all of our Canadian and overseas friends who have sent
expressions of condolences and sympathy.
In the immediate wake of images of a commercial jetliner, loaded with
innocent passengers, being deliberately crashed into a skyscraper in a fire
ball of mass destruction, and of people leaping to their death from the
World Trade Center towers, choosing that fate over burning alive, our usual
discussions of part numbers and car values and Healey sightings just don't
seem very important right now. May we please agree on this? A day or two
moratorium on the hobby discussions, please. Thank you for your
consideration.
Reid Trummel
Lieutenant Colonel, U.S. Army
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 06:49:23 -0400
Subject: Re: A Sign of Respect
Agreed.
>
> Dear Friends,
>
> May I suggest, that as a sign of respect, we put aside our discussions of
> cars and parts and restorations and the pleasures of driving for a day or
> two in the wake of the death of probably 10,000+ Americans in the largest
> attack on the United States in history?
>
> Thank you to all of our Canadian and overseas friends who have sent
> expressions of condolences and sympathy.
>
> In the immediate wake of images of a commercial jetliner, loaded with
> innocent passengers, being deliberately crashed into a skyscraper in a
fire
> ball of mass destruction, and of people leaping to their death from the
> World Trade Center towers, choosing that fate over burning alive, our
usual
> discussions of part numbers and car values and Healey sightings just don't
> seem very important right now. May we please agree on this? A day or two
> moratorium on the hobby discussions, please. Thank you for your
> consideration.
>
> Reid Trummel
> Lieutenant Colonel, U.S. Army
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 07:41:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Looking for a BJ8 rear shroud
Good morning Jim,
I have a BJ8 rear shroud. Contact me directly.
Thanks.
Earle Knobloch
Estero, Florida
Steve Byers wrote:
>
> Hello, Healeyphiles!
>
> If anyone can help Jim, please reply directly to him. Thanks!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: JIM SCHMID
> To: byers@cconnect.net
> Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 7:31 PM
> Subject: BJ8
>
> Steve,
>
> I know that you are in charge of the BJ8 registry. My reason for contacting
> you is not for the registry but I'm looking for a rear shroud for my BJ8. Can
> you HELP!!!??? I could use a damaged one if the left side is useable.
>
> Jim Schmid
> Billings, MT
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 22:14:20 +1000
Subject: Re: A Sign of Respect
I'd just like to add my sincerest condolences and sympathy to those already
offered.
My thoughts and prayers are with all of you who have been directly &
indirectly affected by this cowardly act.
Sincerely
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2001 8:26 PM
Subject: A Sign of Respect
>
> Dear Friends,
>
> May I suggest, that as a sign of respect, we put aside our discussions of
> cars and parts and restorations and the pleasures of driving for a day or
> two in the wake of the death of probably 10,000+ Americans in the largest
> attack on the United States in history?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 09:58:05 -0700
Subject: Re: A Sign of Respect
ABSOLUTELY !!! EDS
Reid Trummel wrote:
> Dear Friends,
>
> May I suggest, that as a sign of respect, we put aside our discussions of
> cars and parts and restorations and the pleasures of driving for a day or
> two in the wake of the death of probably 10,000+ Americans in the largest
> attack on the United States in history?
>
> Thank you to all of our Canadian and overseas friends who have sent
> expressions of condolences and sympathy.
>
> In the immediate wake of images of a commercial jetliner, loaded with
> innocent passengers, being deliberately crashed into a skyscraper in a fire
> ball of mass destruction, and of people leaping to their death from the
> World Trade Center towers, choosing that fate over burning alive, our usual
> discussions of part numbers and car values and Healey sightings just don't
> seem very important right now. May we please agree on this? A day or two
> moratorium on the hobby discussions, please. Thank you for your
> consideration.
>
> Reid Trummel
> Lieutenant Colonel, U.S. Army
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 15:04:02 +0100
Subject: Terrorists
My deepest sympathies to you all in the U.S.
Our Mr.Blair is wishy-washy on most things. He would not dare be
wishy-washy on this one - Parliament would eat him. I trust we
will be able, even in some small way, to help you bring these
people to justice.
And when people talk calmly (and usually at a great and safe
distance) about restraint and commensurate, only, retaliation,
one has to wonder what licence that gives you in the U.S. After
all, if someone wiped out the best part of Threadneedle Street in
the City of London, we should be thinking in terms somewhat past
a 4 man hit team from the SAS or the occasional Tomahawk. Let's
be sure who they are and hit them big time.
Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 10:53:46 -0400
Subject: Re: A Sign of Respect
Folks,
For you with young kids that are asking why, I have found this
website on how to talk to your kids helpful...
Mike Brouillette
Bedford, NH
http://www.cyfernet.org/talkchild.html
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 07:55:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Hayden Fan for BT7
Perhaps there are two Hayen fans that are being
discussed here. My Hayden fan is plastic with a
stamped metal bolting plate. Since my fan is out of
the car (as I am rebuilding the engine) I'll look for
a model number when I get home later today.
Dean
BN7
> The Hayden fan and the Texas Cooler are NOT the same
> fan. The Texas Cooler
> is plastic. The Hayden is metal
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "terry s." <tvett68 at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 16:28:23
Subject: Re: A Sign of Respect Seconded !
Reid, your sentiments and message says it all.
Thank you.
Terry Singer
Former Marine, 1505907 USMC
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RanBullard at Clearchannel.com
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 13:16:30 -0400
Subject: A Sign of Respect
I agree, absolutely. Working on my Healey has served as constructive
therapy for me and my friends. There will be a need for therapy for all of
us in order that we can deal with the terrible sense of loss in the
aftermath of these terrorist acts. Most of us feel a need to gather
together with others in order to feel a sense of support in this, our
darkest hour. I feel that support from all of you on this listserver.
Thanks.
Ran Bullard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 13:17:14 EDT
Subject: Worthy of Respect
I'm sitting at my desk, taking time out from working on the car stuff I do
for a living to read the emails. While I'll continue to think about cars so
that our readers will have something to enjoy next month in the midst of
these serious issues, a part of my mind continuously mourns former colleagues
in financial services who would have been at their desks in the WTC yesterday
morning.
The stories of bravery we are starting to hear impress us that people who
never volunteered to serve their country yesterday nevertheless showed what
the rest of us can hope we are made of. For example, the man who phoned his
wife from the plane near Pittsburgh after it had been hijacked. Learning from
her the probable intent of his hijackers, he called back to tell her he and
three others were going to do something about the situation on his plane.
True heroism.
i appreciate the sympathy and concern expressed by friends on the list from
all over the world.
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 18:43:16 +0100
Subject: Condolences
Condolences to all our American friends and to all those of other
nationalities who died in the World Trade Centre and elsewhere.
Peter Dzwig
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 10:50:19 -0700
Subject: Re: A Sign of Respect
Can I just say as an Aussie here in the US, everyone I work with
including myself knows of people who are unaccounted for as yet, and
hearing that my fellow Aussies back home are as heartbroken over this
tragedy as I am here gives me hope that the world is still a good
place and that the terror of minorities will not overshadow that.
I also take hope in reading a story about an Aussie that was on the
73rd story of tower 1 who managed to get out after the first plane
hit and who said that he thinks all the others on his floor
successfully got out - and the miracle of finding someone who fell
from level 83 alive.
This horrific act will bring people of all nations closer together
and on that note the terrorists have failed.
Rohan.
At 3:26 AM -0700 9/12/01, Reid Trummel wrote:
>Dear Friends,
>
>May I suggest, that as a sign of respect, we put aside our discussions of
>cars and parts and restorations and the pleasures of driving for a day or
>two in the wake of the death of probably 10,000+ Americans in the largest
>attack on the United States in history?
>
>Thank you to all of our Canadian and overseas friends who have sent
>expressions of condolences and sympathy.
>
>In the immediate wake of images of a commercial jetliner, loaded with
>innocent passengers, being deliberately crashed into a skyscraper in a fire
>ball of mass destruction, and of people leaping to their death from the
>World Trade Center towers, choosing that fate over burning alive, our usual
>discussions of part numbers and car values and Healey sightings just don't
>seem very important right now. May we please agree on this? A day or two
>moratorium on the hobby discussions, please. Thank you for your
>consideration.
>
>Reid Trummel
>Lieutenant Colonel, U.S. Army
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Donald Shields <dons300 at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 15:07:21 -0400
Subject: A sign of respect
Dear Reid,
Thank you for saying what I am sure many of us have been thinking.
Let us all hope and pray that we and our elected representatives,
individually and as a nation, have the spirit and intestinal fortitude
to face the challenges and sacrifices that we will be required to make
during the coming years.
Peace and freedom cannot flourish in the presence of raw evil. The
price of freedom is eternal vigilance, the wisdom to know when to act,
and the heart to act swiftly and courageously when required so to do.
With thanks to those who have and will send condolences; with pride
and thanks to those allies who will stand shoulder to shoulder with us
in doing what must be done.....
God bless America!
Don Shields, New Jersey, USA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ian.Harrison at li.csiro.au
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 06:30:57 +1000
Subject: A sign of respect
Dear all,
It's really difficult to express the words required to describe our feelings
for your loss and circumstances from over here in OZ.
Although geographically separated we are one with you, our media is totally
consumed by your circumstances and we are following your disaster piece by
piece as it unfolds.
I am afraid that our world will never be as it was.
All Australians are just stunned and a sense of foreboding is emerging, good
luck and God be with you all.
Ian Harrison
Australia
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From phil at lesliecompanies.com (Phillip W. Leslie)
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 16:03:54 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Brake Servo
I have a BJ8 with an inoperative Girling servo on it. The previous owner had
purchased a new Lockheed servo but had not installed it. Has anyone done
this replacement? If so, is there anything special I should know?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 22:17:06 +0100
Subject: This unbelievable act of terrorism
May I, on behalf of the UK Austin Healey Club, offer heartfelt
condolences to all who have suffered and sustained loss in the terrorist
massacres of yesterday. This is just beyond anything that could ever be
imagined. We have woken up this morning with the hope that this had been
just a bad dream, only to made quickly aware once more that this is all
too real, and the worst of nightmares for so many of you across the
pond.
Our hearts are with you.
-
Alan F Cross
UK Austin Healey Club
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 16:43:52 -0500
Subject: Fwd: Hayden Fan for BT7
----------- Original Message -----------
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Sent To: healeybn7@yahoo.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Hayden Fan for BT7
Date Sent: 12 Sep 2001 04:35 PM
dean,
you are correct. the tx kooler was formerly known as a hayden 3602, however,
over a year ago hayden discontinued the 3602. the north tx austin healey club
continues to hand carve this wonderful 6 blade design out of virgin blocks of
white plastic where healeys all over the world can not only be cool but operate
koool.<g>
all interested parties can view the kooler on our website www.ntahc.org. they
are still shipped domestically to your front door by priority mail for only
$45. the adapter, for fours (4's) is an additional $38.50
happy healeying,
jerry
Dean Caccavo wrote:
>
>
> Perhaps there are two Hayen fans that are being
> discussed here. My Hayden fan is plastic with a
> stamped metal bolting plate. Since my fan is out of
> the car (as I am rebuilding the engine) I'll look for
> a model number when I get home later today.
> Dean
> BN7
>
> > The Hayden fan and the Texas Cooler are NOT the same
> > fan. The Texas Cooler
> > is plastic. The Hayden is metal
> Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
>
>
--------- End Original Message ---------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bill Puetz" <bpuetz at msn.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 17:50:25 -0500
Subject: TRIBUTE TO THE UNITED STATES
This speaks for itself.
Bill
******************
TRIBUTE TO THE UNITED STATES
This, from a Canadian newspaper,
America: The Good Neighbor.
Widespread but only partial news coverage was given
recently to a remarkable editorial broadcast from
Toronto by Gordon Sinclair, a Canadian television
commentator. What follows is the full text of his
trenchant remarks as printed in the Congressional
Record:
"This Canadian thinks it is time to speak up for the
Americans as the most generous and possibly the least
appreciated people on all the earth.
Germany, Japan and, to a lesser extent, Britain and
Italy were lifted out of the debris of war by the
Americans who poured in billions of dollars and
forgave other billions in debts. None of these
countries is today paying even the interest on its
remaining debts to the United States.
When France was in danger of collapsing in 1956, it
was the Americans who propped it up, and their reward
was to be insulted and swindled on the streets of
Paris. I was there. I saw it.
When earthquakes hit distant cities, it is the United
States that hurries in to help. This spring, 59
American communities were flattened by tornadoes.
Nobody helped.
The Marshall Plan and the Truman Policy pumped
billions of dollars into discouraged countries. Now
newspapers in those countries are writing about the
decadent, warmongering Americans.
I'd like to see just one of those countries that is
gloating over the erosion of the United States dollar
build its own airplane. Does any other country in the
world have a plane to equal the Boeing Jumbo Jet, the
Lockheed Tri-Star, or the Douglas DC10? If so, why
don't they fly them? Why do all the International
lines except Russia fly American Planes?
Why does no other land on earth even consider putting
a man or woman on the moon? You talk about Japanese
technocracy, and you get radios. You talk about German
technocracy, and you get automobiles. You talk about
American technocracy, and you find men on the moon -
not once, but several times and safely home again.
You talk about scandals, and the Americans put theirs
right in the store window for everybody to look at.
Even their draft-dodgers are not pursued and hounded.
They are here on our streets, and most of them, unless
they are breaking Canadian laws, are getting American
dollars from ma and pa at home to spend here.
When the railways of France, Germany and India were
breaking down through age, it was the Americans who
rebuilt them. When the Pennsylvania Railroad and the
New York Central went broke, nobody loaned them an
old caboose. Both are still broke.
I can name you 5000 times when the Americans raced to
the help of other people in trouble. Can you name me
even one time when someone else raced to the Americans
in trouble? I don't think there was outside help even
during the San Francisco earthquake.
Our neighbors have faced it alone, and I'm one
Canadian who is damned tired of hearing them get
kicked around. They will come out of this thing with
their flag high. And when they do, they are entitled
to thumb their nose at the lands that are gloating
over their present troubles. I hope Canada is not one
of those."
Stand proud, America!
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Magnus Karlsson" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 00:47:59 +0200
Subject: A sign of respect
The deepest condolences to all Americans for these unbelievably terrible acts.
It is an attack on the whole free world for which the USA is the main guarantor.
People here in Sweden are very chocked and our thoughts are with all the people
who lost their near ones yesterday.
Magnus Karlsson
Sweden
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 19:20:10 -0400
Subject: 0
Gentlemen,
I am a 747 pilot based in Anchorage,Alaska and also a former U.S. Navy
Pilot. As I wait "on call" to fly needed supplies into NYC I am both
sickened and saddened by what I see on the news. These emotions are only
overshadowed by the tremendous RAGE I feel right now! In short, it is time
to take the gloves off,localize these bastards and take them off the face
of the earth once and for all! No rules and no compromise!
Now if you will all excuse me, I'm going up to my attic right now to see if
my Navy flight suit still fits me............
Scot Paulson (1966 BJ8)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 17:10:31 -0700
Subject: Fw: [NEWS] We'll go forward from this moment
I think this also sums it up...
From:
http://www.miami.com/herald/content/features/columnists/pitts/digdocs/000565.
htm
The Miami Herald
Published Wednesday, September 12, 2001
Leonard Pitts Jr.
We'll go forward from this moment
It's my job to have something to say.
They pay me to provide words that help make sense of that which troubles the
American soul. But in this moment of airless shock when hot tears sting
disbelieving eyes, the only thing I can find to say, the only words that seem
to fit, must be addressed to the unknown author of this suffering.
You monster. You beast. You unspeakable bastard.
What lesson did you hope to teach us by your coward's attack on our World
Trade Center, our Pentagon, us? What was it you hoped we would learn? Whatever
it was, please know that you failed.
Did you want us to respect your cause? You just damned your cause.
Did you want to make us fear? You just steeled our resolve.
Did you want to tear us apart? You just brought us together.
Let me tell you about my people. We are a vast and quarrelsome family, a
family rent by racial, social, political and class division, but a family
nonetheless. We're frivolous, yes, capable of expending tremendous emotional
energy on pop cultural minutiae -- a singer's revealing dress, a ball team's
misfortune, a cartoon mouse. We're wealthy, too, spoiled by the ready
availability of trinkets and material goods, and maybe because of that, we
walk through life with a certain sense of blithe entitlement. We are
fundamentally decent, though -- peace-loving and compassionate. We struggle to
know the right thing and to do it. And we are, the overwhelming majority of
us, people of faith, believers in a just and loving God.
Some people -- you, perhaps -- think that any or all of this makes us weak.
You're mistaken. We are not weak. Indeed, we are strong in ways that cannot be
measured by arsenals.
IN PAIN
Yes, we're in pain now. We are in mourning and we are in shock. We're still
grappling with the unreality of the awful thing you did, still working to make
ourselves understand that this isn't a special effect from some Hollywood
blockbuster, isn't the plot development from a Tom Clancy novel. Both in terms
of the awful scope of their ambition and the probable final death toll, your
attacks are likely to go down as the worst acts of terrorism in the history of
the United States and, probably, the history of the world. You've bloodied us
as we have never been bloodied before.
But there's a gulf of difference between making us bloody and making us fall.
This is the lesson Japan was taught to its bitter sorrow the last time anyone
hit us this hard, the last time anyone brought us such abrupt and monumental
pain. When roused, we are righteous in our outrage, terrible in our force.
When provoked by this level of barbarism, we will bear any suffering, pay any
cost, go to any length, in the pursuit of justice.
I tell you this without fear of contradiction. I know my people, as you, I
think, do not. What I know reassures me. It also causes me to tremble with
dread of the future.
In the days to come, there will be recrimination and accusation, fingers
pointing to determine whose failure allowed this to happen and what can be
done to prevent it from happening again. There will be heightened security,
misguided talk of revoking basic freedoms. We'll go forward from this moment
sobered, chastened, sad. But determined, too. Unimaginably determined.
THE STEEL IN US
You see, the steel in us is not always readily apparent. That aspect of our
character is seldom understood by people who don't know us well. On this day,
the family's bickering is put on hold.
As Americans we will weep, as Americans we will mourn, and as Americans, we
will rise in defense of all that we cherish.
So I ask again: What was it you hoped to teach us? It occurs to me that maybe
you just wanted us to know the depths of your hatred. If that's the case,
consider the message received. And take this message in exchange: You don't
know my people. You don't know what we're capable of. You don't know what you
just started.
But you're about to learn.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 20:39:37 -0400
Subject: Re: This unbelievable act of terrorism
Unfortunately this is probably just a little 'love tap' to get our
attention. Check out:
http://www.ipcs.org/issues/articles/489-ter-kapila.html
GM
----- Original Message -----
This is just beyond anything that could ever be
> imagined. We have woken up this morning with the hope that this had been
> just a bad dream, only to made quickly aware once more that this is all
> too real, and the worst of nightmares for so many of you across the
> pond.
>
> Our hearts are with you.
> -
> Alan F Cross
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 18:17:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Hayden Fan for BT7
The Hayden fan that I bought is also plastic with the stamped metal
bolting plate part # 3602.
>
> Perhaps there are two Hayen fans that are being
> discussed here. My Hayden fan is plastic with a
> stamped metal bolting plate. Since my fan is out of
> the car (as I am rebuilding the engine) I'll look for
> a model number when I get home later today.
> Dean
> BN7
>
> > The Hayden fan and the Texas Cooler are NOT the same
> > fan. The Texas Cooler
> > is plastic. The Hayden is metal
> Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo!
Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 21:21:43 -0400
Subject: Re: This unbelievable act of terrorism
Hi All,
Being a divorced father of a 9 year old girl, I don't see my daughter every
day. But Wednesday nights are my weeknight visits with her. Yesterday I had
called the ex just to be sure that everything was okay with my daughter.
Don't really know why....as she was in school in the 4th grade. But the
shock and fear of this event just made me need to hear that she was okay.
Today I've been struggling...I knew I had to talk to her about what has
happened. She saw the pictures on TV. As I picked her up at her dance class,
I began talking to her a bit. She told me that her teacher wasn't in
today...and won't be for a few days. Anyway, I asked her if she was
questioning in her mind why this bad thing had happened....if she was
wondering why. My daughter will not volunteer anything, you have to pry it
out. She answered that question with an instant YES. When we got to our
table at the local Papa-Gino's, as always we began to look over her homework
for the night. There was a note to the parents in her bag. As I was telling
her that the entire planet was wondering why, I opened the note. It spoke of
my daughters 4th grade teacher Mrs. Yang. She's 24...newly married...her
first year teaching is my daughter's class. She lost her brother yesterday.
He was on one of those two planes that left Logan Airport.
My earlier thoughts of today.....wondering how to explain things to
her....yea right. I never knew just how much I had to explain to my little
girl. Now she's no longer as innocent as I wanted her to be. Neither am I
come to think of it...I never fought in any war. This kind of stuff really
freakin' SUCKS.
I'm sorry.... for all the innocence that's been lost. For ALL the loss that
is happening here. I really hope we squash the entire concept of
terrorism....globally! When we determine what group is responsible...we
need to end it once and for all. Send a message, if you get my drift??
Sorry folks....I don't know why felt the need to share this. For the
families, and all of the victims of this repulsive ugly act, I hope they can
somehow come through this. Let our country take this as a wake-up-call of
the highest order.
Dave Masucci
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2001 5:17 PM
Subject: This unbelievable act of terrorism
>
> May I, on behalf of the UK Austin Healey Club, offer heartfelt
> condolences to all who have suffered and sustained loss in the terrorist
> massacres of yesterday. This is just beyond anything that could ever be
> imagined. We have woken up this morning with the hope that this had been
> just a bad dream, only to made quickly aware once more that this is all
> too real, and the worst of nightmares for so many of you across the
> pond.
>
> Our hearts are with you.
> -
> Alan F Cross
> UK Austin Healey Club
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 21:34:46 -0400
Subject: Anti-terrorism
Scott -
I, too, am a Navy officer - a retired Commander with more than 20 years
service. But, I have to disagree with you.
When we bomb hell out of some desert site or foreign city, the USA slips to
their level and the terrorists win. When we close streets, deny access to
"the people's buildings", or impose martial law type restraints on our
citizens, the terrorist achieves his goal.
Sadly, the FAA appears to be acting this way. How does eliminating curbside
check in affect terrorists? Bags still undergo the same scrutiny whether
received from the curb, or after waiting 30 minutes at the ticket check-in.
We simply cannot accept this nonsense that imposes costs on the citizens,
yet does nothing to counter terrorists.
Let us hope that our leaders will be guided by the following over the next
several months:
"They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
- Benjamin Franklin
Some idiot on Imus this morning was bitching that we should have had
fighters on alert around New York for protection. The key to effective
anti-terrorism policies is not to build fences next to possible targets, but
to initiate security as far from the target as possible. I'm afraid lots
of resources and personal freedoms are about to be sacrificed to "close the
barn door..."
Lee Mairs
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
> Gentlemen,
> I am a 747 pilot based in Anchorage,Alaska and also a former U.S. Navy
> Pilot. As I wait "on call" to fly needed supplies into NYC I am both
> sickened and saddened by what I see on the news. These emotions are only
> overshadowed by the tremendous RAGE I feel right now! In short, it is time
> to take the gloves off,localize these bastards and take them off the face
> of the earth once and for all! No rules and no compromise!
> Now if you will all excuse me, I'm going up to my attic right now to see
if
> my Navy flight suit still fits me............
>
>
> Scot Paulson (1966 BJ8)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 21:41:12 -0400
Subject: Refernce Source
Healey World....Greetings from a New Subscriber...
I am finally attempting to begin some level of restoration of a '57 BN4 that I
have owned for 25 years, but has mostly sat in my garage patiently waiting for
all my kids to graduate and leave home so it could receive the attention it
deserves. Since I live in Michigan, USA, as may be expected, there is
considerable deterioration in many body panels and also some frame areas, so I
am looking for advice and also a source of information about the metal itself,
and more details about the panels and repair panels offered by Moss and
others.
I have purchased the "Guide to A-H Restoration" and "Restoring British
Sports Cars", but am looking for more specifics.
I looj forward to hearing from you.
Thanks to all of who sent encouraging messages following the Terrorist
Attacks. I say now to all the fence-sitting countries and those harboring the
terrorists: If you aren't part of the solution, then you are part of the
problem...and that can be interpreted as a threat.
G.Gilliam
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 22:29:39 -0500
Subject: Re: This unbelievable act of terrorism
Today on the way home from work,i had had my 6 yr old @ the office while my
bride
was at the Dr., he asked me" Daddy what's a "flying bomb?
Is there really one?" Several months ago i had the opportunity to do something
i
had yearned to do all my life,(pro'lly due to me and my Daddy watching "12
o'clock high" as a youth),i got to see , feel, and tour a B17!
i really wanted to go for a ride but w/wife disabled(i think she needs a Jule
frame),couldn't go for the extra bucks. i convinced 2 of my
co-workers,age23and27, to go @ lunch and for the youngest to bring his 6 yr old.
i had forgotten they were there until @ 2 hrs B4 they left B.R.
(we also toured a B24 but that was less impressive,i had toured a B25and B29the
last time historic planes came to town but i really really wanted to see the
17......don't know how many models i've built). Me,my ex-Angel Flight wife,6yr
old, 3 yr old and co-workers had a blast and took lots of photos.....as i was
under the wing feeling the thinness of the fuselage, one of many "old dudes",
was
under there too rubbing his hands over the rivets.
"They don't make'm like this anymore,do they?" "Nope", he said.i could see tears
welling up in his eyes."I hear these babies brought many a man home.?!" "Yep",
he
said as he turned away so i couldn't see his eyes............
I tried to explain to my son the enormousness(sp) of the act,that if
both planes were filled with their bombs or gasoline/kerosine/ jet fuel they
weren't jackshit compared to the "flying bombs".........yeah, a lot of innocence
was lost yesterday.........hope this helps...don't know where i got this
......and i think I got problems! HoYo
http://www.cyfernet.org/talkchild.html
David Masucci wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Being a divorced father of a 9 year old girl, I don't see my daughter every
> day. But Wednesday nights are my weeknight visits with her. Yesterday I had
> called the ex just to be sure that everything was okay with my daughter.
> Don't really know why....as she was in school in the 4th grade. But the
> shock and fear of this event just made me need to hear that she was okay.
>
> Today I've been struggling...I knew I had to talk to her about what has
> happened. She saw the pictures on TV. As I picked her up at her dance class,
> I began talking to her a bit. She told me that her teacher wasn't in
> today...and won't be for a few days. Anyway, I asked her if she was
> questioning in her mind why this bad thing had happened....if she was
> wondering why. My daughter will not volunteer anything, you have to pry it
> out. She answered that question with an instant YES. When we got to our
> table at the local Papa-Gino's, as always we began to look over her homework
> for the night. There was a note to the parents in her bag. As I was telling
> her that the entire planet was wondering why, I opened the note. It spoke of
> my daughters 4th grade teacher Mrs. Yang. She's 24...newly married...her
> first year teaching is my daughter's class. She lost her brother yesterday.
> He was on one of those two planes that left Logan Airport.
>
> My earlier thoughts of today.....wondering how to explain things to
> her....yea right. I never knew just how much I had to explain to my little
> girl. Now she's no longer as innocent as I wanted her to be. Neither am I
> come to think of it...I never fought in any war. This kind of stuff really
> freakin' SUCKS.
>
> I'm sorry.... for all the innocence that's been lost. For ALL the loss that
> is happening here. I really hope we squash the entire concept of
> terrorism....globally! When we determine what group is responsible...we
> need to end it once and for all. Send a message, if you get my drift??
>
> Sorry folks....I don't know why felt the need to share this. For the
> families, and all of the victims of this repulsive ugly act, I hope they can
> somehow come through this. Let our country take this as a wake-up-call of
> the highest order.
>
> Dave Masucci
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 20:51:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: This unbelievable act of terrorism
Alan -
Yes, deep condolances to those that have lost and
suffered. To those that have died or suffered, rest
assured it is not only the US, but the whole world and
everyone in it that has lost and suffered as well.
To the pathetic little people that perpetrated this,
to those that are sympathetic to there cause, to their
families, and to those who harbor such satanic evil -
you will be found. If not by us, then by god.
To those that think terror is god's work, you are
mistaken. You are agents of Satan and rest assured
paradise does not await you on the other side, but
eternal suffering. My only sympathy to you is that
you are too ignorant to understand this.
Alan
--- Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
> May I, on behalf of the UK Austin Healey Club, offer
> heartfelt
> condolences to all who have suffered and sustained
> loss in the terrorist
> massacres of yesterday. This is just beyond anything
> that could ever be
> imagined. We have woken up this morning with the
> hope that this had been
> just a bad dream, only to made quickly aware once
> more that this is all
> too real, and the worst of nightmares for so many of
> you across the
> pond.
>
> Our hearts are with you.
> -
> Alan F Cross
> UK Austin Healey Club
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 21:53:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Terrorist Attack & God Bless America - further
"Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
>
> < Ed.....Those bastards make Timothy McVeigh look
> like Mr. Rogers.
> Doug>
>
Hi Doug
Your latter comment quoted above hits another nail on the head.
Earlier today one of our Healey colleagues (Bill Puetz) posted a
column from either the Toronto Star, or the insert in many
Canadian papers of the 70's and 80's called the Star Weekly the
article was by the late Gordon Sinclair. This article detailed
much of America, and how millions of us feel about you our
cousins south of the 49th. This was further driven home today -
driving through the streets and byways here in Saskatoon - the
city was extremely quite for mid week, automobile traffic
although steady didn't seem to have the frenetic roar it usually
has , it felt like Sunday - here the reminders on private homes,
on businesses, on schools, the University, and federal and
provincial offices were the Maple Leaf at half staff. Added to
this were muted conversations in shops and offices - continued
shock and a shared grief with and for our friends.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 21:09:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Anti-terrorism
Lee -
While I agree with you in sentiment - you should
realize that security at US airports is too lax. As
someone who travels extensively around the world, I am
always shocked at the exceptionally poor security that
I have personally seen at most US airports. This
ABSOLUTELY has to change. Most foreign countries do
the following:
1. do not allow people w/o tickets past security.
It's not that people seeng friends and family off are
a threat - it's that this allows security personell to
put more attention on ticketed passengers which are
the real threat in hijackings.
2. Perform random searches of carry on luggage. I've
never had this happen to me in the US, but probably
10% of the time overseas. If soemone wants to look
through my bag before getting on the plane - I'm glad
to show them - I feel safe.
3. Give suspicous looking characters a closer look.
Most foreign countries don't have a problem with
pulling someone out of a line and going through their
carry on if they don't like the way they look. If
they did this in the US, you'd be slapped with a
federal case.
4. curbside check in IS dangerous. Who's to stop
someone from putting something in your bag that the
porter has set aside on the curb while you run in in a
hurry to get your seat assigment? Maybe you're not so
careless, but I see this all the time in the US.
And with your definition of liberty - I think you
misunderstand what liberty is. Liberty can not be
simply legislated, it must be also be "enjoyed". If
people in the US do not undertake certain actions in
their lives because they feel threatened, then they
have already lost their liberty. If the US must
suspend some minor forms of legislated liberty (i.e.
privacy of electronic communication with respect to
national defence) - the net effect is the average
citizen will enjoy more liberty than the alternative,
which is a livelihood dominated by fear of terrorism
and murder, and ultimately anarchy.
Alan
--- "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Scott -
> I, too, am a Navy officer - a retired Commander with
> more than 20 years
> service. But, I have to disagree with you.
>
> When we bomb hell out of some desert site or foreign
> city, the USA slips to
> their level and the terrorists win. When we close
> streets, deny access to
> "the people's buildings", or impose martial law type
> restraints on our
> citizens, the terrorist achieves his goal.
>
> Sadly, the FAA appears to be acting this way. How
> does eliminating curbside
> check in affect terrorists? Bags still undergo the
> same scrutiny whether
> received from the curb, or after waiting 30 minutes
> at the ticket check-in.
> We simply cannot accept this nonsense that imposes
> costs on the citizens,
> yet does nothing to counter terrorists.
>
> Let us hope that our leaders will be guided by the
> following over the next
> several months:
> "They that give up essential liberty to obtain a
> little temporary
> safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
> - Benjamin Franklin
>
> Some idiot on Imus this morning was bitching that we
> should have had
> fighters on alert around New York for protection.
> The key to effective
> anti-terrorism policies is not to build fences next
> to possible targets, but
> to initiate security as far from the target as
> possible. I'm afraid lots
> of resources and personal freedoms are about to be
> sacrificed to "close the
> barn door..."
>
> Lee Mairs
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 21:08:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Anti-terrorism
Lee -
While I agree with you in sentiment - you should
realize that security at US airports is too lax. As
someone who travels extensively around the world, I am
always shocked at the exceptionally poor security that
I have personally seen at most US airports. This
ABSOLUTELY has to change. Most foreign countries do
the following:
1. do not allow people w/o tickets past security.
It's not that people seeng friends and family off are
a threat - it's that this allows security personell to
put more attention on ticketed passengers which are
the real threat in hijackings.
2. Perform random searches of carry on luggage. I've
never had this happen to me in the US, but probably
10% of the time overseas. If soemone wants to look
through my bag before getting on the plane - I'm glad
to show them - I feel safe.
3. Give suspicous looking characters a closer look.
Most foreign countries don't have a problem with
pulling someone out of a line and going through their
carry on if they don't like the way they look. If
they did this in the US, you'd be slapped with a
federal case.
4. curbside check in IS dangerous. Who's to stop
someone from putting something in your bag that the
porter has set aside on the curb while you run in in a
hurry to get your seat assigment? Maybe you're not so
careless, but I see this all the time in the US.
And with your definition of liberty - I think you
misunderstand what liberty is. Liberty can not be
simply legislated, it must be also be "enjoyed". If
people in the US do not undertake certain actions in
their lives because they feel threatened, then they
have already lost their liberty. If the US must
suspend some minor forms of legislated liberty (i.e.
privacy of electronic communication with respect to
national defence) - the net effect is the average
citizen will enjoy more liberty than the alternative,
which is a livelihood dominated by fear of terrorism
and murder, and ultimately anarchy.
Alan
--- "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Scott -
> I, too, am a Navy officer - a retired Commander with
> more than 20 years
> service. But, I have to disagree with you.
>
> When we bomb hell out of some desert site or foreign
> city, the USA slips to
> their level and the terrorists win. When we close
> streets, deny access to
> "the people's buildings", or impose martial law type
> restraints on our
> citizens, the terrorist achieves his goal.
>
> Sadly, the FAA appears to be acting this way. How
> does eliminating curbside
> check in affect terrorists? Bags still undergo the
> same scrutiny whether
> received from the curb, or after waiting 30 minutes
> at the ticket check-in.
> We simply cannot accept this nonsense that imposes
> costs on the citizens,
> yet does nothing to counter terrorists.
>
> Let us hope that our leaders will be guided by the
> following over the next
> several months:
> "They that give up essential liberty to obtain a
> little temporary
> safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
> - Benjamin Franklin
>
> Some idiot on Imus this morning was bitching that we
> should have had
> fighters on alert around New York for protection.
> The key to effective
> anti-terrorism policies is not to build fences next
> to possible targets, but
> to initiate security as far from the target as
> possible. I'm afraid lots
> of resources and personal freedoms are about to be
> sacrificed to "close the
> barn door..."
>
> Lee Mairs
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 22:31:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Anti-terrorism
Lee,
I agree with you on many particulars. All of the changes to policy and
"anti-terrorism" hysteria is wasted energy. There is no shield against a
determined terrorist.
The answer to this problem does not lie on our shores, but in the backyards of
the terrorists and their sponsors. We must destroy the murderers where ever they
are without regard to who protects or protests and we must treat their hosts as
if they had actually soiled their own hands with the blood of our innocents.
Innocents! Much is being made of that word, but I believe that in a culture
where 5 and 6 year olds are taught that their only function in life is to murder
for God, there are no innocents. We must demonstrate once and for all that there
is no profit to be found in jihad.
As to slipping to their level, there is no way on earth we could ever fall that
low. There are those who will call us all of the formula names to be found in
their Marxist hymnals but they have been singing that song since Hiroshima. We
really need to develop a thicker skin.
Bill Lawrence
"Lee S. Mairs" wrote:
> Scott -
> I, too, am a Navy officer - a retired Commander with more than 20 years
> service. But, I have to disagree with you.
>
> When we bomb hell out of some desert site or foreign city, the USA slips to
> their level and the terrorists win. When we close streets, deny access to
> "the people's buildings", or impose martial law type restraints on our
> citizens, the terrorist achieves his goal.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 00:51:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Anti-terrorism
Yes! Yes! Yes! The most important thing is to search out the terrorist
leader and get rid of him. Instituting more idiotic safety rules to make
our lives more miserable is not the answer; nor is sitting here wringing our
hands, building memorials, and putting our lives on hold. All of that lets
the terrorists know that they were able to get the best of us.
Bob
>
>Scott -
>I, too, am a Navy officer - a retired Commander with more than 20 years
>service. But, I have to disagree with you.
>
>When we bomb hell out of some desert site or foreign city, the USA slips to
>their level and the terrorists win. When we close streets, deny access to
>"the people's buildings", or impose martial law type restraints on our
>citizens, the terrorist achieves his goal.
>
>Sadly, the FAA appears to be acting this way. How does eliminating
curbside
>check in affect terrorists? Bags still undergo the same scrutiny whether
>received from the curb, or after waiting 30 minutes at the ticket check-in.
>We simply cannot accept this nonsense that imposes costs on the citizens,
>yet does nothing to counter terrorists.
>
>Let us hope that our leaders will be guided by the following over the next
>several months:
>"They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
>safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
> - Benjamin Franklin
>
>Some idiot on Imus this morning was bitching that we should have had
>fighters on alert around New York for protection. The key to effective
>anti-terrorism policies is not to build fences next to possible targets,
but
>to initiate security as far from the target as possible. I'm afraid lots
>of resources and personal freedoms are about to be sacrificed to "close the
>barn door..."
>
>Lee Mairs
>'62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
>
>
>>
>> Gentlemen,
>> I am a 747 pilot based in Anchorage,Alaska and also a former U.S. Navy
>> Pilot. As I wait "on call" to fly needed supplies into NYC I am both
>> sickened and saddened by what I see on the news. These emotions are only
>> overshadowed by the tremendous RAGE I feel right now! In short, it is
time
>> to take the gloves off,localize these bastards and take them off the face
>> of the earth once and for all! No rules and no compromise!
>> Now if you will all excuse me, I'm going up to my attic right now to see
>if
>> my Navy flight suit still fits me............
>>
>>
>> Scot Paulson (1966 BJ8)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Lisa & Mark <bugtop at home.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 22:26:52 +0000
Subject: terrorism continues
What sickens me are the attacks on Arab Americans here at home. If the
terrorists have accomplished one thing it is breeding hatred.
Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stella67 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 03:36:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Anti-terrorism
At a time like this is difficult for anyone to grasp the mind set of
individuals who deliberately murder thousands of people in the name of God,
if this what they thought they were doing. It is also difficult for most of
us to understand the physical and mental destruction caused by this terrorist
act or the changes that will impact the world. It is true that you cannot
stop a terrorist committed to killing for a cause but as a nation we can be
more prepared for the wars of the future, or perhaps today. These wars will
be fought with terrorists who have few boarders and no respect for life, not
even their own.
My office is close enough to the Pentagon to feel the impact of the terrorist
attack, see the smoke from the fires, hear the rescue vehicles travel past my
office and see the results first hand. I spent much of the day trying to find
computers and space for displaced Pentagon military and civilian personnel.
We spent much of the last 36 hours tracking our employees down who were in
the Pentagon and in Manhattan near the World Trade Center. Thankfully, they
are all safe. It has been a very long day.
After spending two tours in Vietnam I have tried to live my life learning
about living instead of killing. Unfortunately, I learned something about the
killing aspect of wars, and this terrorist act was an act of war. That is,
you cannot bomb trees and sand and expect to win a war against someone who is
fighting for a cause. The mind set of a leader set on killing for a "cause,"
is more dangerous than a powerful army. If you don't strike hard and fast at
the brain trust of the terrorists the fanatics will win. Only by eliminating
the leader, can you over come the enemy. Over the years of working on
anticrime and antiterrorist efforts, these lessons I learned as a young
Marine, have been reinforced. To carry out this action, we will have to allow
our military and civilian leaders to authorize actions most of us are
reluctant to think about, the state sponsored assassination of a terrorist
leader. In a democracy like ours this is a very difficult moral dilemma.
I am certain that I will over come this day and this nation will overcome the
terrorist's destructive acts. We will do so without creating a military
dictatorship or putting guards with automatic weapons on every corner.
Working with many of the military and civilian leaders in the Pentagon and
Washington, I know that is not what they want. At the same time there will be
changes in the way the US treats air travel, boarder crossings, and terrorist
intelligence.
More importantly, retribution will take place.
Sorry for the ramblings at this late hour, my sympathy and prayers for those
who have lost friends and relatives, and for all the people of the world who
lost a little innocents over the last day or two.
We'll get back to Healeys soon, very soon I hope.
John
PS
If you are interested in knowing what is going on in the antiterrorist world,
or what we call Homeland Security take a look at the this web site -
http://www.homelandsecurity.org/. I am an officer of the company that
founded this organization. I guess you can say I have a personal stake in
this activity so be forewarned that I am biased.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 07:20:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Anti-terrorism
In a message dated 9/13/01 12:11:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
> And with your definition of liberty - I think you
> misunderstand what liberty is. Liberty can not be
> simply legislated, it must be also be "enjoyed". If
> people in the US do not undertake certain actions in
> their lives because they feel threatened, then they
> have already lost their liberty. If the US must
> suspend some minor forms of legislated liberty (i.e.
> privacy of electronic communication with respect to
> national defence) - the net effect is the average
> citizen will enjoy more liberty than the alternative,
> which is a livelihood dominated by fear of terrorism
> and murder, and ultimately anarchy.
>
>
I find myself agreeing with Lee here, and although he might think that
anathema I am always concerned with inroads being made on the Bill of Rights
in the name of "The Better Good". There is a vast gulf between the rights
guaranteed to us by the Constitution and sensible regulations concerning
boarding of flights, etc. Commercial air flight is optioinal, but I still
want to be secure in my home and person from unwarranted and (currrently)
illegal governmental intrusion. If our attitudes regarding personal freedoms
become changed as a result of this event then we have lost the battle.
Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 07:45:35 EDT
Subject: Fwd: prayer
Return-Path: <legends5jac@home.com>
Received: from rly-za03.mx.aol.com (rly-za03.mail.aol.com
[172.31.36.99]) by air-za05.mail.aol.com (v80.17) with ESMTP id
MAILINZA55-0912164256; Wed, 12 Sep 2001 16:42:56 -0400
Received: from femail22.sdc1.sfba.home.com (femail22.sdc1.sfba.home.com
[24.0.95.147]) by rly-za03.mx.aol.com (v80.21) with ESMTP id
MAILRELAYINZA37-0912164221; Wed, 12 Sep 2001 16:42:21 -0400
Received: from [24.183.205.22] by femail22.sdc1.sfba.home.com (InterMail
vM.4.01.03.20 201-229-121-120-20010223) with ESMTP id
<20010912204218.DTMJ16302.femail22.sdc1.sfba.home.com@[24.183.205.22]>
; Wed, 12 Sep 2001 13:42:18 -0700
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 15:42:19 -0500
Subject: prayer
From: Judi Crick <legends5jac@home.com>
To: Debbie Eggers <Corningal@aol.com>, Myrna Ford <BnMSpecial@aol.com>,
Cindy Fox <cfox@esu10.org>, Teri FrerKing <blackcarnation@aol.com>,
Pat Hastings <pkhfurman@hotmail.com>, Linda Holder
<lindaholder@mindspring.com>, Karen Martin <bkmart@aol.com>, John
Obrien <BANJOJOHN@aol.com>, Teri Obrien
<Terri_O'Brien/CBA/UNO/UNEBR@unomail.unomaha.edu>, Gerry & Suzan
Patterson <GPATTER455@aol.com>, Jim & Linda Pendergrass
<JPEND6501@aol.com>, Jerry and Donna Quick <geraldquick@home.com>,
Linda Shafer <cwshaferjr@home.com>
Message-ID: <B7C532DB.974%legends5jac@home.com>
Mime-version: 1.0
X-Mailer: Unknown (No Version)
>A quick prayer chain. Please pass this on to everyone. Lets all say a
>prayer for the United States, the president and the military today. The
>hijacking of four planes with United States citizens and then the crash of
>two of those planes into the world trade center and the crash of a third
>into the U.S. Pentagon that has left the country in a state of devastation
>and fear. Many people have lost loved ones. We are a country that has been
>left in shock unparalleled in decades. Please pray that the government will
>find a way to keep us all safe, that the people will find a place of comfort
>with God and that the lives lost will not be for naught. Pray that those
>people have found a place with God and give comfort to those left behind.
>Pray that those still alive can be saved and that the doctors, emergency
>staff, and military have God's hand upon them as they do their work. Let's
>also pray for each other, that we all find a way to reach out to loved ones
>whose lives will be forever changed. All of this we ask in Jesus' name.
>Pass this on please and stop RIGHT NOW and say a prayer. Lord Be with us
>ALL!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Burt Weiner" <rangerbw at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 09:56:51 -0400
Subject: RE: A Sign of Respect and a Thanks
It is encouraging and helpful to all of us whose lives are no doubt changed
in some way by this horrific tragedy to receive emails from family and
friends. I must say I have been particularly moved by my fellow
Healey-philes from outside the US. The ultimate solution to the problem of
terrorism will require resolve and resources of all free nations. Thanks
and God Bless.
Burt Weiner
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 07:46:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Hayden Fan for BT7
With all due respect. Let's honor Reid's call for a
pause in hobby chat and pick up this discussion some
time next week.
Dean - BN7
--- Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net> wrote:
> The Hayden fan that I bought is also plastic with
> the stamped metal
> bolting plate part # 3602.
>
> >
> > Perhaps there are two Hayen fans that are being
> > discussed here. My Hayden fan is plastic with a
> > stamped metal bolting plate. Since my fan is out
> of
> > the car (as I am rebuilding the engine) I'll look
> for
> > a model number when I get home later today.
> > Dean
> > BN7
> >
> > > The Hayden fan and the Texas Cooler are NOT the
> same
> > > fan. The Texas Cooler
> > > is plastic. The Hayden is metal
> > Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant
> messaging with Yahoo!
> Messenger
> >
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 07:59:49 -0700
Subject: This is sad, but I think old H. L. said it best
Henry Louis Mencken may have said it best:
"Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit upon his hands,
hoist the flag, and begin slitting throats."
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 09:35:06 -0700
Subject: FW: Tribute to the United States
>This, from a Canadian newspaper, is worth sharing.
>
>America: The Good Neighbor.
>
>Widespread but only partial news coverage was given recently to a
>remarkable editorial broadcast from Toronto by Gordon Sinclair,
>a Canadian television commentator.
>What follows is the full text of his trenchant remarks as
>printed in the Congressional Record:
>
>"This Canadian thinks it is time to speak up for the Americans as
>the most generous and possibly the least appreciated people
>on all the earth.
>Germany, Japan and, to a lesser extent, Britain and Italy were
>lifted out of the debris of war by the Americans who poured in
>billions of dollars and forgave other billions in debts.
>None of these countries is today paying even the interest
>on its remaining debts to the United States.
>
>When France was in danger of collapsing in 1956, it was the
>Americans who propped it up, and their reward was to be insulted
>and swindled on the streets of Paris. I was there. I saw it.
>
>When earthquakes hit distant cities, it is the United States
>that hurries in to help. This spring, 59 American communities
>were flattened by tornadoes. Nobody helped.
>
>The Marshall Plan and the Truman Policy pumped billions of dollars
>into discouraged countries. Now newspapers in those countries are
>writing about the decadent, warmongering Americans.
>
>I'd like to see just one of those countries that is gloating over
>the erosion of the United States dollar build its own airplane.
>Does any other country in the world have a plane to equal
>the Boeing Jumbo Jet, the Lockheed Tri-Star, or the Douglas DC10?
>If so, why don't they fly them?
>Why do all the International lines except Russia fly American
>Planes?
>
>Why does no other land on earth even consider putting a man or
>woman on the moon?
>You talk about Japanese technocracy, and you get radios.
>You talk about German technocracy, and you get automobiles.
>
>You talk about American technocracy, and you find men on the
>moon-not once, but several times-and safely home again.
>You talk about scandals, and the Americans put theirs right
>in the store window for everybody to look at.
>
>Even their draft-dodgers are not pursued and hounded. They are
>here on our streets, and most of them, unless they are breaking
>Canadian laws, are getting American dollars from ma and pa at home
>to spend here.
>
>When the railways of France, Germany and India were breaking down
>through age, it was the Americans who rebuilt them.
>When the Pennsylvania Railroad and the New York Central went broke,
>nobody loaned them an old caboose.
>Both are still broke.
>
>I can name you 5000 times when the Americans raced to the help of
>other people in trouble. Can you name me even one time when
>someone else raced to the Americans in trouble?
>I don't think there was outside help even during the San Francisco
>earthquake.
>
>Our neighbors have faced it alone, and I'm one Canadian who is
>damned tired of hearing them get kicked around.
>They will come out of this thing with their flag high.
>And when they do, they are entitled to thumb their nose at
>the lands that are gloating over their present troubles. I hope
>Canada is not one of those."
>
>Stand proud, America!
>
>I would hope that each of you would send this to as many people
>as you can and emphasize that they should send it to as many
>of their friends until this letter is sent to every person on the web.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 13:49:42 EDT
Subject: pedal
Hi,
Did the 3000 BJ8's come with a rubber pedal cover on the accelerator?
Thanks,
Bill
Annapolis
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 14:57:00 EDT
Subject: sprite value
I just looked at a 65 or 66 sprite for sale--engine seems strong and car
straight but there is a lousy repaint with some surface rust in spots. The
interior (white) looked like a kit of some kind. Given average condition does
anyone have any ideas as to the range of value? Or does anyone have
instructions on how I get to the Sprite list?
Best--Michael Oritt (BN1)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 14:07:56 +0100
Subject: Old Glory Cometh
Return-Path: <Bob.Castillo@disney.com>
Received: from mail.disney.com ([204.128.192.15]) by mail.macconnect.com
(Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO203-101c) ID#
0-62295U6000L600S0V35) with ESMTP id AAA12621 for
<lifeisrich@macconnect.com>; Thu, 13 Sep 2001 15:08:09 -0400
Received: from Hermes10.corp.disney.com (hermes10.corp.disney.com
[153.7.110.102]) by mail.disney.com (Switch-2.0.1/Switch-2.0.1) with
SMTP id f8DJ78e18125 for <lifeisrich@macconnect.com>; Thu, 13 Sep 2001
12:07:08 -0700 (PDT)
Received: from 1crp232.corp.disney.com by hermes.corp.disney.com with
ESMTP; Thu, 13 Sep 2001 12:07:05 -0700
Received: by 1crp232.corp.disney.com with Internet Mail Service
(5.5.2654.52) id <SJL3V9R2>; Thu, 13 Sep 2001 12:08:04 -0700
Message-Id: <B11B627EA6AED4119AC700508BFDF3C85AEA73@asi-forkball.dlr.dis
ney.com>
From: "Castillo, Bob" <Bob.Castillo@disney.com>
To: angcastillo@home.com, silksbydpt@aol.com, jos2914@aol.com,
Kevin_McBride@earthtech.com, lcostanza@lakings.com,
clam40@wemediaone.net, mjbaum3@aol.com,
patrick_montoya@transilwrap.com, bcastillo@home.com,
TROYBHoward21@aol.com, Wloewe@lakings.com, atom2944@aol.com,
michaelnandee@email.msn.com, shoopchk@aol.com, Berlzbro@Yahoo.com,
gans3d@earthlink.net, danhuntsinger@juno.com, dhuntsinger@tbn.org,
drpeper44@aol.com, darin@e-abel.com, david.c.forster@boeing.com,
"Tsuruda, Dave" <Dave.Tsuruda@disney.com>, cdfraul@mindspring.com,
goangels13@aol.com, "Kruger, Doug" <Doug.Kruger@disney.com>,
marvymill@Yahoo.com, GLArmstrong@prodigy.net, "Dawdy, Grant"
<Grant.Dawdy@disney.com>, jhdales@aol.com, JacquelineJamison@msn.com,
Socalhumes@aol.com, Homejt@earthlink.net, bjlancelot@hotmail.com,
jlance13@home.com, Nscarhotti@aol.com, StarvinB@aol.com,
antunezr@Yahoo.com, Rweston4444@aol.com, lifeisrich@macconnect.com,
rob@unitedmediainc.com, crazybobb@att.net, Ruchao@Yahoo.com,
spfbanner2@aol.com, stacy888@juno.com, ultimategoalie@altavista.com,
homersPizza@aol.com, tii2ger@aol.com
Subject: FW: Flags Across America
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 12:06:17 -0700
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2654.52)
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
-----Original Message-----
From: Kay, Eric
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2001 9:22 AM
To: ASI - 1st Floor Annex; ASI - 2nd Floor Annex; ASI - Accounting Area; ASI
- AD-Sales Area; ASI - Baseball Ops; ASI - Entertaiment Area; ASI - Event
Staff; ASI - Facilities Area; ASI - Home Plate Area; ASI - Intern Mailboxes;
ASI - Media Relations; ASI - Merchandising
Subject: FW: Flags Across America
TOMORROW, FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 14, is "Flags Across America." All Americans are
asked to
display the American flag either in their homes or cars or both. Let's keep
the
meaning of UNITED in "United States". Pass this onto as many people as you
know.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 17:12:12 EDT
Subject: Re: pedal
No there is never a rubber pad on the accelerator pedal because you want your
foot to be able o slid on the pedal as you go on and off the gas.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 15:45:26 +0100
Subject: Words from Deepak Chopra
Return-Path: <drmmiles@earthlink.net>
Received: from gull.mail.pas.earthlink.net ([207.217.121.85]) by
mail.macconnect.com (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO203-101c) ID#
0-62295U6000L600S0V35) with ESMTP id AAA655 for
<LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; Thu, 13 Sep 2001 01:30:07 -0400
Received: from oemcomputer (pool0841.cvx29-bradley.dialup.earthlink.net
[209.179.137.76]) by gull.mail.pas.earthlink.net (EL-8_9_3_3/8.9.3)
with SMTP id WAA18099; Wed, 12 Sep 2001 22:24:59 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <005701c13c24$25643d20$4c89b3d1@oemcomputer>
Reply-To: "Marjorie Miles" <drmmiles@earthlink.net>
From: "Marjorie Miles" <drmmiles@earthlink.net>
To: "Bill" <william.meyer@duke.edu>
Subject: The Deeper Wound
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 00:17:25 -0700
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Priority: 3
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3
IWorth passing on.
-----Original Message-----
From: Sathya <sathya@chopra.com>
To: namaste@chopra.com <namaste@chopra.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 12, 2001 12:50 PM
Subject: Namaste- The Deeper Wound
>Many friends continue to call concerning Deepak's well being . The Chopra
>family are all safe. In the midst of the world's tragedy, Deepak has been
>barraged with questions from the media requesting his perspective. Here's
>his response that he also wanted to share with his Namaste friends.
>
>P.S. Please join us at the prayer circle boards at http://www.chopra.com/
>
>------------------------------
>
>The Deeper Wound
>
> As fate would have it, I was leaving New York on a jet flight that took
>off 45 minutes before the unthinkable happened. By the time we landed in
>Detroit, chaos had broken out. When I grasped the fact that American
>security had broken down so tragically, I couldn't respond at first. My
>wife and son were also in the air on separate flights, one to Los Angeles,
>one to San Diego. My body went absolutely rigid with fear. All I could
>think about was their safety, and it took several hours before I found out
>that their flights had been diverted and both were safe.
> Strangely, when the good news came, my body still felt that it had been
>hit by a truck. Of its own accord it seemed to feel a far greater trauma
>that reached out to the thousands who would not survive and the tens of
>thousands who would survive only to live through months and years of hell.
>And I asked myself, Why didn't I feel this way last week? Why didn't my
>body go stiff during the bombing of Iraq or Bosnia? Around the world my
>horror and worry are experienced every day. Mothers weep over horrendous
>loss, civilians are bombed mercilessly, refugees are ripped from any sense
>of home or homeland. Why did I not feel their anguish enough to call a
>halt to it?
> As we hear the calls for tightened American security and a fierce military
>response to terrorism, it is obvious that none of us has any answers.
>However, we feel compelled to ask some questions.
> Everything has a cause, so we have to ask, What was the root cause of this
>evil? We must find out not superficially but at the deepest level. There is
>no doubt that such evil is alive all around the world and is even
celebrated.
> Does this evil grow from the suffering and anguish felt by people we don't
>know and therefore ignore? Have they lived in this condition for a long
time?
> One assumes that whoever did this attack feels implacable hatred for
>America. Why were we selected to be the focus of suffering around the
world?
> All this hatred and anguish seems to have religion at its basis. Isn't
>something terribly wrong when jihads and wars develop in the name of God?
>Isn't God invoked with hatred in Ireland, Sri Lanka, India, Pakistan,
>Israel, Palestine, and even among the intolerant sects of America?
> Can any military response make the slightest difference in the underlying
>cause? Is there not a deep wound at the heart of humanity?
> If there is a deep wound, doesn't it affect everyone?
> When generations of suffering respond with bombs, suicidal attacks, and
>biological warfare, who first developed these weapons? Who sells them? Who
>gave birth to the satanic technologies now being turned against us?
> If all of us are wounded, will revenge work? Will punishment in any form
>toward anyone solve the wound or aggravate it? Will an eye for an eye, a
>tooth for a tooth, and limb for a limb, leave us all blind, toothless and
>crippled?
> Tribal warfare has been going on for two thousand years and has now been
>magnified globally. Can tribal warfare be brought to an end? Is patriotism
>and nationalism even relevant anymore, or is this another form of
tribalism?
> What are you and I as persons going to do about what is happening? Can we
>afford to let the deeper wound fester any longer?
> Everyone is calling this an attack on America, but is it not a rift in our
>collective soul? Isn't this an attack on civilization from without that is
>also from within?
> When we have secured our safety once more and cared for the wounded, after
>the period of shock and mourning is over, it will be time for soul
>searching. I only hope that these questions are confronted with the deepest
>spiritual intent. None of us will feel safe again behind the shield of
>military might and stockpiled arsenals. There can be no safety until the
>root cause is faced. In this moment of shock I don't think anyone of us has
>the answers. It is imperative that we pray and offer solace and help to
>each other. But if you and I are having a single thought of violence or
>hatred against anyone in the world at this moment, we are contributing to
>the wounding of the world.
>
> Love,
> Deepak
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>If a friend gave this to you and you want to subscribe to Namaste, join at
>www.chopra.com/namaste.htm or send an e-mail to
>listserve@chopra.com with a blank Subject line, and the message text
>"subscribe namaste". (Do not include the quotation marks.)
>
>To unsubscribe to Namaste:
>send an e-mail to listserve@chopra.com with a blank Subject line, and in
>the message body type "unsubscribe namaste".
>
>To change your address do both of the above.
>
>Visit http://www.youngeratchopra.com/ - to learn more about Deepak and
>David's newest book, "Grow Younger, Live Longer - 10 Steps to Reverse
Aging".
>
>Visit http://www.howtoknowgod.com/ for an interactive experience of
>Deepak's recent book, "How to Know God".
>
>You can purchase "Grow Younger, Live Longer - 10 Steps to Reverse Aging"
>and "How to Know God" through your favorite online bookseller, such as
>Amazon.com,
>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0609600788/deepakchopra/qid=10003234
9
>7 , your local bookstore, or by calling 888-424-6772.
>
>To post a prayer on the Prayer Circle Discussion Board: click
>http://www.chopra.com/ , click Prayer/Message Boards, and post a prayer.
>Deepak would love to hear your feedback.
>
> _______________________________________________________
>
> This message comes to you via the Namaste mailing list,
> hosted by Deepak Chopra and
> The Chopra Center for Well Being.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 19:54:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Words from Deepak Chopra
I think that it time to get to being our anal selves and discuss Healey related
things. I, for one, have had enough of WTC. Can we say our prayers for the lost
and move on, please?
Bob Denton
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 18:27:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Anti-terrorism - what really needs to happen
This is very good information and it inspired a thought in
my poor demented head about what the legal class in this
country could be doing to earn their keep.
It seems to me that whoever did this, and his sponsors
have just caused an enormous amount of property damage and
wrongful death and as such have incurred a liability to
restore all of the property and the lives of the people
affected to as near normalcy as possible. Hell the lawyers
in this country are always in such a rush to try to sue
the rest of us out of existence why not apply this to our
real enemies? They tell me Osama is a billionaire. If so
he has to have his money stashed somewhere (Ever seen a
billion dollars in a money belt?) A few properly written
and filed legal documents might be able to cut off his
money supply.
No money=No friends
No friends=No defenders
No defenders=NO OSAMA
voila.
And if it works my sons won't have to go dig him out of
his hidey hole. (I know Osama is only the alleged perp.
But even if he didn't do this one he has done others and
as such needs to pay.)
In addition, if Iraq is involved, the cost of the World
trade Center with all the "collateral damage" four
practically new Boeing jet liners, compensation to the
families who have suffered losses, compensation to this
country for mental anguish and don't forget to pile on
punitive damages...
I think we have a case for owning that shitpot country
outright. Maybe we could keep the oilfields and give the
rest to the Palestinians so they will stop stirring up
Israel.
You may think I'm being frivolous, but I recall that this
nation is often called on to pay reparations when by some
mistake we are the cause of death or damage to a citizen
of another country. Why does that rule only apply to us
(US)?
So I say to all you aspiring legal eagles, grab your brief
case get to your computer and go to bat for your country.
(Note; No ACLU need apply.)
Bill Lawrence
"The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" wrote:
> John -
>
> Very well said. But as someone who has lived in the
> middle east and worked for the arabs, what you profess
> will only be marginally successful. Simply getting
> rid of O-B-L most definitely will not get of the
> terror. You actually need to do the following (over
> several decades):
>
> 1. Most suicide terrorists are promised that their
> families will be well taken care of after they kill
> themselves for Allah. These terrorists families lives
> must be absolutely ruined, and even possibly
> eliminated through silent, black ops. Ever wonder why
> OBL never goes after Russia? Because the Russians
> would kill him, his direct family, his extended
> family, and demolish the local mosque & town. You
> must do this to the terrorist's families EVERY SINGLE
> TIME after a terrorist event. They must understand
> that when they take their life, they will take their
> families lives with them.
>
> 2. Most of these terrorists are raised with heavy
> religious teaching (from childhood) that professess
> hate for the US. They are brain washed from
> childhood. The "black ops" must therefore eliminate
> each and every single teacher who professes terror to
> children in the name of Allah. Once the arab teachers
> realize that they will be killed for doing this, they
> will absolutely stop - they are cowards and fear death
> more than you may think.
>
> 3. Ever wonder why in Beiruit, they only kidnapped
> americans and never russians (the russians were
> invading afghanistan at the time, if you recall)?? It
> wasn't just the money - during that time, I had heard
> that some militants had also kidnapped what was
> believed to be a KGB operative in Beiruit. Apparently
> soon after, the KGB operative simply "dissapeared"
> into thin air and the kidnappers were found in the
> street with their genitals cut off (while alive) and
> shoved down their throats until they suffocated.
> Suffice to say, the militants NEVER bothered the
> Russians again in Beiruit.
>
> 4. Our country has to follow the money. In Islam,
> many followers give a tithe to the Mosque like the
> Mormons in Temple. This tithe is supposed to be set
> aside for Muslim charities such as the Red Crescent.
> In fact, a certain amount of the worldwide muslim
> tithe dissapears into unnamed "charities" which
> profess to defend the name of Islam. It is from here
> that the terrorists get their financial support, not
> simply from OBL's private accounts. In this way, All
> of Islam is inderectly responsible for the terrorrism
> - the person giving the tithe doesn't know this
> because the money is initially collected by local
> clerics and blindly given to other more senior clerics
> (and mullahs) - who then turn and give it secretly to
> people like the plane crashers. We must find, follow,
> and absolutely eliminate these funds. This is why so
> many moderate Arab leaders fear fundamentalism so much
> - because the religion, in many ways, has more
> organized destructive power than they do. It is this
> religious money that is threatening moderate
> leaderships in places like Algeria, Egypt, and Jordan.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 18:34:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Terrorists
Healey friends,
I want to thank everyone who has offered
condolences to our nation in the midst
of this tragedy. I also want to comment on this
slow motion wave of violence
which has engulfed not only the US, but the entire
world. It is easy when times
are good and no one is immediately threatening you
to look at the violence which
has been occurring so regularly as just another
nuisance of modern life.
However, as President Bush said today this was an
act of war. My only quibble
with that statement is that this was just one act
of war piled on innumerable
other acts of war which have been shrugged off
over the past couple of decades
as random acts of a few "terrorist fanatics".
My problem is that we still have people who do not
realize that we are at war
and that we have been for many years. The
terrorist organizations in the middle
east have been recruiting, training and carrying
out attacks for decades with
relative impunity. They had no doubts they were at
war. We in our complacency
have stretched all credulity so we could view this
underground reign of terror
as a "law enforcement issue." We have sat back and
watched murderers being
protected and coddled behind the borders of a few
rogue nations, and placidly
dreamed of the day when the FBI or Interpol or
John Wayne or Judge Dredd would
finally be able to kick open the doors and bring
the culprits to "justice".
Which lofty sounding word means that they spend a
few years being coddled in our
prison system while Jesse Jackson and the ACLU
tour the world collecting money
for their defense and trying to convince a few
soft headed judges that these
poor misunderstood boys should be let off with a
penalty equivalent to a
jaywalking ticket.
I am heartened that someone in authority finally
had the courage to say the "W"
word. (Well actually I guess Bill Clinton did once
but he thought he was talking
about a kids card game; and so after heroically
annihilating a strategic
aspirin factory a few thousand miles away from
Osama, he triumphantly went back
to the people's business--which for him meant
collecting bribes and chasing
pussy.)
I wholeheartedly endorse the use of the term
"war", which I hope will
effectively limit the role of jurisprudence to an
impotent postwar analysis of
who did what to whom.
If our congress follows the current public
sentiment and finds the gonads to
actually declare war on these murderous bastards
that will be a step in the
right direction. However, it will be the grossest
of mistakes to limit that
declaration to the perpetrators of this one
incident. What is needed is a
general declaration (It would be nice to have
company in this NATO.) of war
against all terrorists everywhere. We need to dig
out all of the old dusty files
of cases long forgotten and go after those killers
too. We need to let the
puppeteers who fund these operations from the
background know that we do not
honor their claims of innocence nor the borders
they hide behind. (Does the name
Yasser Arafat ring a bell?) As long as we are
going to be violating national
sovereignty, let's make it worthwhile.
I could go on but I see my language is getting
courser and I have the need to
strike something. Maybe I can rant some more later
if my typing fingers are not
in a cast.
Bill Lawrence
MSG USAR
Three sons in and one threatening to enlist.
"simon.lachlan" wrote:
> My deepest sympathies to you all in the U.S.
> Our Mr.Blair is wishy-washy on most things. He would not dare be
> wishy-washy on this one - Parliament would eat him. I trust we
> will be able, even in some small way, to help you bring these
> people to justice.
> And when people talk calmly (and usually at a great and safe
> distance) about restraint and commensurate, only, retaliation,
> one has to wonder what licence that gives you in the U.S. After
> all, if someone wiped out the best part of Threadneedle Street in
> the City of London, we should be thinking in terms somewhat past
> a 4 man hit team from the SAS or the occasional Tomahawk. Let's
> be sure who they are and hit them big time.
> Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 19:56:23 -0500
Subject: It Is War
I predicted then that sometime during the Bush administration we would go to
war.
That time has arrived.
When will this country learn that we cannot be the police dogs of the world,
we cannot protect the world and we cannot keep financing the very idiots who
wage senseless terrorist war against us.
This government was founded with two objectives, # 1 To protect our shores
from foreign invaders and #2 To establish domestic tranquillity.
As long as we pry into the affairs of other nations we can expect this type
of retribution. I don't condone it, I deplore it, I detest it. But I
expect it.
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Raymond Feehan" <feehanr at home.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 19:19:46 -0600
Subject: Re: It Is War
Unfortunately, the U.S.A., being the most powerful nation in the world
,carries with it a price. You have to smile at countries that are booting
you in the behind or risk being called a bully. George Bush, bless his
heart, called it an act of war against your country. No more Mr. nice guy.
And now we're finding out that many other nations suffered losses of
citizens so now your country doesn't have to go it alone. I reiterate, find
'em and nuke 'em once and for all. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2001 6:56 PM
Subject: It Is War
>
> I predicted then that sometime during the Bush administration we would go
to
> war.
>
> That time has arrived.
>
> When will this country learn that we cannot be the police dogs of the
world,
> we cannot protect the world and we cannot keep financing the very idiots
who
> wage senseless terrorist war against us.
> This government was founded with two objectives, # 1 To protect our
shores
> from foreign invaders and #2 To establish domestic tranquillity.
>
> As long as we pry into the affairs of other nations we can expect this
type
> of retribution. I don't condone it, I deplore it, I detest it. But I
> expect it.
>
> Don
> BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 21:34:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Words from Deepak Chopra
In a message dated 09/13/2001 4:56:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
> healeys@autox.team.net
I agree with Bob. I appreciate the sentiment of those who think we should
have a moratorium on Healey talk but that is exactly what terrorists acts of
war are designed to do, stop us from doing what we usually do. I too think
we should get back to some sense of normalcy and that means talking about
Healey stuff.
Respectfully submitted,
Dave Duffey
'59 BT 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 18:34:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: The Real USA
Let me put the Canadian's famous statement in
perspective to current events -
Despite the deluded assertions of many Muslim
Extremists, we have put many times more US support,
citizens, and soldiers in harms way for Muslim & Arab
causes than for Israeli ones. A few examples:
In 1956, Eisenhower brought us to the brink of war
with Britain, France and Israel over the Suez Canal
when Abdul Nasser nationalized it - and the US Navy
blockaded British, French and Israeli paramilitary
efforts to "retake" the canal. Eisenhower, a great
man, believed vehemently in the Arab right of self
determination, & backed this policy such that it
became known as the Eisenhower Doctrine.
Starting in 1979 - the US sent almost unlimited
support & training to Islamic groups fighting the
illegal Soviet invasion of Afghanistan. It is with
this military training and support that the Islamic
fundamentalists in Afghanistan now show their thanks.
In 1983, US Marines were sent to Beirut to try to help
stabilize access to the city via the Airport. Muslim
Extremists repaid this peacekeeping gesture with over
200 Marine's blood.
In the Early -90's - The US vehemently took on the
ethnic serbian forces attempting to ethnically cleanse
Yugoslavia of Muslims and Croats. While much of
Europe & the Middle East stood aside, the US stood up
and did what they could to support the Muslim and
Croat causes in Bosnia. American peacekeepers serve
there to this day.
In 1991 - The US lead an international consortium of
armies to drive the Iraqis out of Kuwait, which had
been taken by force. US Servicemen protect both
Kuwait and Saudi Arabia today. Over 200 US soldiers
died in this war, and later another 200 died in the
Khobar towers attack.
In 1993, US peacekeepers, along with Muslims from
Malaysia, went to Somalia to try to establish normalcy
and peace in that predominantly Muslim country. 18 US
peacekeepers paid for this with their blood.
In the late 90's - the US, again, lead international
efforts to stop ethnic cleansing of Muslims in Kosovo
by Christian Serbian henchmen. US Soldiers continue
to serve in Kosovo today.
Yet, I have never heard of or ever have known of a
single American soldier that was ordered to Israel and
died for the Jewish State while serving under orders
of an American president.
For those Muslims that profess that the US has only
ever supported the Israeli cause, they are simply
wrong. As far as I know, only pure ignorant evil
would propagate such a boldface lie.
Alan
----- Original Message -----
> "This Canadian thinks it is time to speak up for the
Americans as the most
> generous and possibly the least appreciated people
on all the earth.
> Germany, Japan and, to a lesser extent, Britain and
Italy were lifted out of
> the debris of war by the Americans who poured in
billions of dollars and
> forgave other billions in debts. None of these
countries is today paying
> even the interest on its remaining debts to the
United States.
> When France was in danger of collapsing in 1956, it
was the Americans who
> propped it up, and their reward was to be insulted
and swindled on the
> streets of Paris. I was there. I saw it.
> When earthquakes hit distant cities, it is the
United States that hurries in
> to help. This spring, 59 American communities were
flattened by tornadoes.
> Nobody helped. The Marshall Plan and the Truman
Policy pumped billions of
> dollars into discouraged countries. Now newspapers
in those countries are
> writing about the decadent, warmongering Americans.
> I'd like to see just one of those countries that is
gloating over the
> erosion of the United States dollar build its own
airplane. Does any other
> country in the world have a plane to equal the
Boeing Jumbo Jet, the
> Lockheed Tri-Star, or the Douglas DC10? If so, why
don't they fly them?
> Why do all the International lines except Russia fly
American Planes? Why
> does no other land on earth even consider putting a
man or woman on the
> moon? You talk about Japanese technocracy, and you
get radios. You talk
> about German technocracy, and you get automobiles.
You talk about American
> technocracy, and you find men on the moon - not
once, but several times -
> and safely home again.
> You talk about scandals, and the Americans put
theirs right in the store
> window for everybody to look at. Even their
draft-dodgers are not pursued
> and hounded. They are here on our streets, and most
of them, unless they are
> breaking Canadian laws, are getting American dollars
from ma and pa at home
> to spend here.
> When the railways of France, Germany and India were
breaking down through
> age, it was the Americans who rebuilt them. When the
Pennsylvania Railroad
> and the New York Central went broke, nobody loaned
them an old caboose. Both
> are still broke.
> I can name you 5000 times when the Americans raced
to the help of other
> people in trouble. Can you name me even one time
when someone else raced to
> the Americans in trouble? I don't think there was
outside help even during
> the San Francisco earthquake.
> Our neighbors have faced it alone, and I'm one
Canadian who is damned tired
> of hearing them get kicked around. They will come
out of this thing with
> their flag high. And when they do, they are entitled
to thumb their nose at
> the lands that are gloating over their present
troubles. I hope Canada is
> not one of those."
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 18:38:33 -0700
Subject: JUST THE BEGINING
I WAS GOING TO SEND THIS THOUGHT THIS MORNING.
BUT AS THIS DAY PROGRESSED, I AM MORE CONVINCED.
HOLD ONTO YOUR HATS AND ASSES MY FRIENDS
KIRK KVAM
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 22:09:45 -0400
Subject: Loss of a Friend
Dear list:
I just found out that two of my fellow SCCA members and workers at
the Lime rock Race track in Connecticut were on the flight that crashed
into the Pennsylvania countryside. Linda Gronlund whom I didn't very
well worked a flagging station at the track, was able to call a
relative on her cell phone before the crash. Joe DeLuca worked on the
starting grid with me for the past two years and was one hell of guy and
will be sadly missed. Until we can bomb the crap out of these people or
drill bullets between there eyes, I can only hope that Joe was able to
get a lick in before they hit the ground. Linda and Joe my heart and
preys are with .
Dennis Broughel........Bn-4 Longbridge
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 21:45:51 -0700
Subject: Palos Verdes Concours D' Elegance
Listers:
The Palos Verdes Concours D' Elegance is on
Sunday September 16, 2001 from 10.00 AM to 4.00
PM.
It is set on the beautiful Ocean Trails
Golf Club in Palos Verdes CA., overlooking the
Pacific Ocean.
All you need to know is here:
http://www.pvconcours.com/
There are supposed to be 15 Healeys this
year.
See ya there!
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey CA
1965 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 23:08:10 -0700
Subject: Flags Across America.
TOMORROW, FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 14, is "Flags Across
America."
All Americans are asked to display the American
flag either in their
homes or cars or both. Let's keep the meaning of
UNITED in
"United States".
Pass this onto as many people as you know.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 23:12:31 -0700
Subject: Color
Can someone provide me with the color code for British Racing Green for my BJ8.
Thanks
David Neale
BN7
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 09:05:17 +0100
Subject: Our American friends
All
You may well have seen this on the news but here is a clip from the BBC
web site:
"Unprecedented
On Thursday thousands flocked to the specially-adapted changing of the
guard at Buckingham Palace.
In an unprecedented move, the US National Anthem was played at the
ceremony. This was followed by a two-minute silence to remember the
dead. "
Our thoughts are with you all ...
Paul
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 09:12:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Color
David,
I'm sure there are fanatics out there who will argue with me, but there is
no such colour as British Racing Green! Two of my cars are painted BRG, an
MG 1933 L1 Special and an Austin-Healey 1961 BT-7 and you couldn't ask for
two more different greens. As one who rode as a riding mechanic at
Brooklands in the thirties I can assure that every green car was BRG and
there were many different colours.
Pick a dark green that you like and defy anybody to prove that it isn't BRG.
Cheers, "Bob".
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 12:10:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Color
It's my understanding that there were several (I think 3) different BRG's.
But that's no more substantiated that any other. I am planning to do my BJ8
BRG this winter, and that's what I'm going to do. I'll pick something that's
a dark green that I like, and that'll be that!
Dave Masucci
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rich" <jearich@mindspring.com>
To: "David Neale" <dneale@pacbell.net>; "Austin Healey"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2001 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: Color
>
> David,
>
> I'm sure there are fanatics out there who will argue with me, but there is
> no such colour as British Racing Green! Two of my cars are painted BRG, an
> MG 1933 L1 Special and an Austin-Healey 1961 BT-7 and you couldn't ask for
> two more different greens. As one who rode as a riding mechanic at
> Brooklands in the thirties I can assure that every green car was BRG and
> there were many different colours.
>
> Pick a dark green that you like and defy anybody to prove that it isn't
BRG.
>
> Cheers, "Bob".
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 09:23:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Color
And, there are even some greens that are not dark. Green #25 in
Piknovnik's book of Austin Healey paint colors is fairly light, and seems
to even have some yellow in it (at least to my eye). I think this green
was used one year on some 3000 MK2s and BJ7s.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Bob Rich <jearich@mindspring.com>
> To: David Neale <dneale@pacbell.net>; Austin Healey
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: Color
> Date: Friday, September 14, 2001 8:12 AM
>
>
> David,
>
> I'm sure there are fanatics out there who will argue with me, but there
is
> no such colour as British Racing Green! Two of my cars are painted BRG,
an
> MG 1933 L1 Special and an Austin-Healey 1961 BT-7 and you couldn't ask
for
> two more different greens. As one who rode as a riding mechanic at
> Brooklands in the thirties I can assure that every green car was BRG and
> there were many different colours.
>
> Pick a dark green that you like and defy anybody to prove that it isn't
BRG.
>
> Cheers, "Bob".
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 12:26:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Color
Bob and all --
I guess my "argument" makes me a fanatic, but I've been called worse.
Yes -- you're right. There is not one specific shade that is the "Official
British Racing Green." FIA regulations simply recommended that British
manufacturers paint their cars green, to distinguish them from other national
manufacturers. Over the years, most manufacturers opted for some shade of
dark green, though Donald Healey often tried to paint his in as light a shade
as possible for the long-distance endurance races -- he entered Sprites at
Sebring in chartreuse, for example.
HOWEVER. there most definitely were two specific shades of British racing
green that were used on the Healeys, after the color was used on the Sebring
cars in 1962 (? - could be off a year) The first used was listed as British
Racing Green (generally used on BJ7s) and was a yellowish olive shade, and
the shade which replaced it (to be used generally on BJ8s) is usually
referred to as British Racing Green - Dark and was less yellow. There was a
lso a Spruce Green that is often referred to as BRG, that was used on BN1s
and BN2s. The codes for all of these are in Pikovnik's book.
So if the individual just wants a nice shade of green, he is certainly free
to use any green he wants and he can call it British racing green -- many
people like the 1991-2 Jaguar colors for this purpose. But, if he is having
his car inspected for registration by the Concours Registry, he may wish to
be a little more accurate than that and use one of the two shades that
British Motor Corporation called "British Racing Green" and used on the
Austin-Healeys at the factory.
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 9/14/01 8:15:59 AM, jearich@mindspring.com writes:
<<
David,
I'm sure there are fanatics out there who will argue with me, but there is
no such colour as British Racing Green! Two of my cars are painted BRG, an
MG 1933 L1 Special and an Austin-Healey 1961 BT-7 and you couldn't ask for
two more different greens. As one who rode as a riding mechanic at
Brooklands in the thirties I can assure that every green car was BRG and
there were many different colours.
Pick a dark green that you like and defy anybody to prove that it isn't BRG.
Cheers, "Bob". >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 12:31:19 EDT
Subject: Continuing Observances
Those who may ask why I responded to a Healey query may also be interested in
knowing that my car has an American flag on the antenna this morning, I have
a flag in the window of my office, I'll be at a remembrance service at Noon,
and the National Cathedral remembrance service is on our office radio right
now.
Thoughts of those who were killed will be permanently engraved on my memory
and I will continue to live as normally as possible to avoid ceding even a
small portion of territory to the terrorists.
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 12:42:09 -0400
Subject: Tragedy
While this event has touched many in vrious ways, my son-in-law attended a
meeting in the World Trade Center just the day before, his best friend worked
on the 102nd floow of tower one but overslept that monring and is OK. All of
his coworkers - the entire company - are gone as is, or course, his job. My
cousin works across the street and literally had to dodge body parts as he ran
away. My daughter was stranded as there was no way with the bridged closed to
get home.
It is ironic that these monsters are willing to commit suicide for their cause
but that BASTARD Ben Laden is in hiding. If these animals want to live this
way, blast them back to the stone-age where they belong. It is time for
American to wake up.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 10:11:24 -0700
Subject: '61 Mk 1 SU's
Message Board-
I was looking at purchasing a new set of carbs for my '61 3000 and I see
that I need the HD6 as identified in the Moss Carburetor I.D. Chart. I also
see that for my Mk 1 there are three different "Carb Types". Mine happens
to be the HD6 that is further identified as the AUC963. There are two
others listed as AUC935 and AUC914. I examined the carbs on my car, which I
have had the feeling were incorrect but nonetheless they run very well...
and their number is AUC2044! Given this I have three questions: Number one
is... are the three setups identified as fitting the '61 Mk 1
interchangeable? Why the three different carbs (I am not talking about
triple carbs by the way)? And lastly does anyone know what specific model
and year the SU 2044 is appropriate for? It very well may be for a
non-Healey application. Thank you very much and God Bless America.
Matt-
'61 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 10:24:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Color
At 12:26 PM 9/14/2001, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>...Donald Healey often tried to paint his in as light a shade as possible
>for the long-distance endurance races -- he entered Sprites at Sebring in
>chartreuse...
[According to Margot Healey at Rendezvous 2001 last month]
...and flourescent green in France (Le Mans? I'll have to check the
video.), but the French officials objected, so they took it out in a
pasture and smeared it with cow sh*t, which the French found more acceptable.
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 19:54:46 +0200
Subject: Terrorist Attack
Hi all,
I also would like to express the deepest heartfelt condolencenes from
my country. We over here in Germany were shocked deeply when we heared
of the attack. Please understand, that I don't have all the proper
English words to express what we all felt on that day. Everywhere the
people stood and talked about the catastrophy. No one could believe
it, as a fellow lister already said - it looked like a Holywood movie
on the TV. I and my wife sat the whole evening in front of the TV to
watch and hear the news. Still now all reports on the radio are on
this issue. In Germany have been many remembrance services the last
days with thousands of people. Today was a huge meeting in Berlin at
the Brandenburger Tor with all our goverment politicans and thousands
of people to show our shock.
I hesitated the last days to write to the list being not sure to find
the right words to express our feelings but I hope I could give you an
idea that you are in our minds a lot of time.
Kind regards
Martin Heim
Germany
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 14:56:36 -0400
Subject: Re: '61 Mk 1 SU's
Hi Mat,
The part number AUC2044 applies to the vacuum adapter plate on the top
of the carburettor body and is not the carburettor number.
The carburettor numbers are usually stamped on a small aluminium tag
which is held on by the float chamber lid nut. As I recall the
carburettors usually have consecutive numbers or F for front and R for
rear the rear carburettor having the higher number.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MegCC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 17:42:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Terrorist Attack
To all
Some of you know me some don't but I have been a lurker on this site for a
long while. Being a born and breed a New Yorker who now resides just across
the river in Jersey I am still coming to grips with what has occured. The
out pouring of hope and wishes from this site over the past few days from
around the world has been consoling. Living in a town that is a bedroom
community to NY the tragedy of the WTC will leave its mark on mine and the
surrounding communities for ever. Town halls currently carry a list of names
of those residents missing. Communter parking lots have had car tires marked
to see if the owners have or have not returned. I have yet to look at the
city skyline which is one of the greatest sights in the world. Being in the
financial industry I know the anguish many fell as we arrive to work over the
last few days asking colleagues if everyone they know is alive and well. On
a personnal basis I was fortunate my daughter was in mid town and her
boyfriend came from the PATH station in between the crashes and was smart
enough not to hang around. My secretary's finance made it out from the 51th
floor of Tower 1.
I will tell you New York and its people will survive and rebuild. Thank
you all for caring.
Joe
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 17:43:25 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Friday 7:00 PM
In a message dated 9/14/01 2:31:15 PM, GT4 Dino writes:
<< Here is the plan:
Friday Night at 7:00 p.m. step outside, stop your car, or step out of your
establishment and light a candle. We will show the world that Americans are
strong and united together against terrorism. Please pass this to everyone
on. We need to
reach everyone across the United States (and the world...) quickly.
The message: WE STAND UNITED - WE WILL NOT
TOLERATE TERRORISM. >>
Return-path: <GT4Dino@aol.com>
From: GT4Dino@aol.com
Full-name: GT4 Dino
Message-ID: <136.18fd35f.28d3d123@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 17:31:15 EDT
Subject: Friday 7:00 PM Pac. Time
To: Editorgary@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Mac sub 7
Hi Gary,
I just received this note and we are all going to light our candles. Would
you please pass this on on the healeys list as I have not learned how to use
it, thank you and take care
Helga.
P.S. I have received many called from my relatives in Germany.
Here is the plan:
Friday Night at 7:00 p.m. step outside, stop your car, or step out of your
establishment and light a candle. We will show the world that Americans are
strong and united together against terrorism. Please pass this to everyone
on. We need to
reach everyone across the United States (and the world...) quickly.
The message: WE STAND UNITED - WE WILL NOT
TOLERATE TERRORISM.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 15:02:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Terrorist Attack
Helga and Martin,
On this subject I think I can speak for the List and
all my fellow Americans. Thank you.
We are all struggling to find the right words to
express our feelings and explain what occurred.
Perhaps the best words would be "it was just a movie -
it didn't really happen".
Take care,
Dean
BN7
--- Helga & Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de> wrote:
>
> I hesitated the last days to write to the list being
> not sure to find
> the right words to express our feelings but I hope I
> could give you an
> idea that you are in our minds a lot of time.
>
> Kind regards
>
> Martin Heim
> Germany
>
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 23:38:40 EDT
Subject: Helpful Hints/Information:
>THE TERRORISTS WANT us to be afraid; they want us to stay home, hoarding
>fuel and food. They want to crush our free and open society by paralyzing
>us with fear. We can stop them, and so can every other American. Our
>collective actions have a tremendous effect and will repel this terrorist
>threat and send a clear message to the world.
1. Keep your money in the stock market; leave your investments
where they are. Show your faith in our economy by making a new investment
when the market opens. Don't think for a moment that the terrorists didn't
have a keen sense of the timing of their actions. As consumers and agents of
our economy, we hold its future in our hands.
2. Fill your car's gas tank as you normally would. Don't run to the
gas station to fill up your car. Stay with your normal pattern of fueling.
If you're a gas station owner, don't give in to price-gouging. If you find
yourself and your community victims of price-gouging (at gas stations or
grocery stores), bring it to the public's attention. Report gas-gouging to
the local chapter of the American Automobile Association (AAA). You can also
contact your state's Attorney General or the U.S. Energy Department Hotline
at 1-800-244-3301. These organizations are aware of this kind of activity.
Bring it to the attention of your local newspaper or broadcast outlet.
Provide accurate information and shine a bright light on this lack of civic
virtue.
3. Buy things - anything, no matter how small. Consider buying a
new car, something fuel-efficient to reduce our dependence on foreign oil.
If you've had a project or purchase on your mind, now is the time to follow
through. Don't put off purchases that you have planned because of this
incident and fear for the economy. These delayed purchases can be
self-fulfilling prophecies of a failing economy. Our collective purchases
will have a phenomenal impact and help us fight fear-induced volatility of
the price of everyday goods and services.
4. Fly the American flag. Fly it from your house. Fly it from your car. Fly
it in a position of respect anywhere you can. Stand tall and be American.
Our country has been politically divided, especially since the last
election. But let us not forget that it is precisely the mechanism of
democracy that allows us to be politically divided in a productive fashion.
Terrorism attempts to take that productive division and turn it on itself.
5. Withdraw cash from the bank as you usually would. Don't help cause a run
on the banks by withdrawing all your money. Our financial
systems are strong and resilient. Withdraw cash as you normally do.
Terrorists fully intend to scare us into thinking that our systems are
vulnerable well beyond the point of impact.
6. Use transportation systems. Make business and travel
arrangements as you normally would. Book a flight as quickly as you are
able in order to show your confidence in our airlines, the new airport
security guidelines, and our public safety system.
7. Conserve energy. This will help to stabilize prices and supplies. Take
public transportation, walk, bike, carpool, do whatever you
can to avoid driving. Taking public transportation to work once a week
will be a tremendous help. Turn off unused lights and appliances at home.
8. Write your state and local representatives and members of
Congress to demand more funding for alternative fuel research. Our
dependence on foreign oil is a huge vulnerability. If the United States
decides to take military action, our oil supplies may be affected. By
reducing our dependence on foreign oil, we enable our government to do
what is deemed necessary.
9. Help unify this country by engaging your neighbors and
community. We need to have one voice to fight terrorism. Everyone must
come together in order for our collective actions to defeat this evil.
Acts of violence against our own people, regardless of their faith or
background, can only be destructive.
10. Get back into your normal pattern of work and living. Do what
you can to continue your normal routines. Embrace the new security
guidelines in airports and other public places and don't complain. Support
airport security personnel and let them
know you're proud of what they are doing. Don't be frozen by shock and
fear: that was the terrorists' objective. Fight them by continuing to live
normally in our free and open society.
IT'S UP TO YOU
There are many great lessons to be learned from these events: among
them is the understanding that we each have the ability to defend our
nation. We are each empowered to make decisions that will collectively
allow us not only to survive this time of crisis, but to emerge
ever-stronger in our response to this unspeakable act of evil.
Invoking Winston Churchill, this could, indeed, be our finest hour.
How to help
Blood and platelet donors will be needed over the next several weeks to
help replenish the nation's supply. Call the Red Cross at
1-800-GIVE-LIFE or America's Blood Centers at 1-888-BLOOD-88 to schedule an
appointment.
To donate money to the Red Cross for assisting victims of the attacks,
call 1-800-HELP-NOW. The United Way of New York and The New York Community
Trust have established a fund to help the victims of Tuesday's attacks and
their families. Anyone wishing to contribute may call (212) 251-4035.
Salvation Army, cash donations:
1-800-SAL-ARMY---------------------------------------------------------------
-
----------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "john" <john.metcalfe3 at ntlworld.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 17:25:34 -0000
Subject: RE: The Real USA
The author of the script below forgot to mention that the British have been
fighting terrorists for the past 30 years. These terrorists were funded by
donations raised by the USA public.
Yes it is easy to ignor the suffering when you are not on the recieving end.
I do not support what these people have done to NYC,however when pointing
the finger remember to include all who have provided fund past and present.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of One.Proud.American
Sent: 14 September 2001 02:35
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: The Real USA
Let me put the Canadian's famous statement in
perspective to current events -
Despite the deluded assertions of many Muslim
Extremists, we have put many times more US support,
citizens, and soldiers in harms way for Muslim & Arab
causes than for Israeli ones. A few examples:
In 1956, Eisenhower brought us to the brink of war
with Britain, France and Israel over the Suez Canal
when Abdul Nasser nationalized it - and the US Navy
blockaded British, French and Israeli paramilitary
efforts to "retake" the canal. Eisenhower, a great
man, believed vehemently in the Arab right of self
determination, & backed this policy such that it
became known as the Eisenhower Doctrine.
Starting in 1979 - the US sent almost unlimited
support & training to Islamic groups fighting the
illegal Soviet invasion of Afghanistan. It is with
this military training and support that the Islamic
fundamentalists in Afghanistan now show their thanks.
In 1983, US Marines were sent to Beirut to try to help
stabilize access to the city via the Airport. Muslim
Extremists repaid this peacekeeping gesture with over
200 Marine's blood.
In the Early -90's - The US vehemently took on the
ethnic serbian forces attempting to ethnically cleanse
Yugoslavia of Muslims and Croats. While much of
Europe & the Middle East stood aside, the US stood up
and did what they could to support the Muslim and
Croat causes in Bosnia. American peacekeepers serve
there to this day.
In 1991 - The US lead an international consortium of
armies to drive the Iraqis out of Kuwait, which had
been taken by force. US Servicemen protect both
Kuwait and Saudi Arabia today. Over 200 US soldiers
died in this war, and later another 200 died in the
Khobar towers attack.
In 1993, US peacekeepers, along with Muslims from
Malaysia, went to Somalia to try to establish normalcy
and peace in that predominantly Muslim country. 18 US
peacekeepers paid for this with their blood.
In the late 90's - the US, again, lead international
efforts to stop ethnic cleansing of Muslims in Kosovo
by Christian Serbian henchmen. US Soldiers continue
to serve in Kosovo today.
Yet, I have never heard of or ever have known of a
single American soldier that was ordered to Israel and
died for the Jewish State while serving under orders
of an American president.
For those Muslims that profess that the US has only
ever supported the Israeli cause, they are simply
wrong. As far as I know, only pure ignorant evil
would propagate such a boldface lie.
Alan
----- Original Message -----
> "This Canadian thinks it is time to speak up for the
Americans as the most
> generous and possibly the least appreciated people
on all the earth.
> Germany, Japan and, to a lesser extent, Britain and
Italy were lifted out of
> the debris of war by the Americans who poured in
billions of dollars and
> forgave other billions in debts. None of these
countries is today paying
> even the interest on its remaining debts to the
United States.
> When France was in danger of collapsing in 1956, it
was the Americans who
> propped it up, and their reward was to be insulted
and swindled on the
> streets of Paris. I was there. I saw it.
> When earthquakes hit distant cities, it is the
United States that hurries in
> to help. This spring, 59 American communities were
flattened by tornadoes.
> Nobody helped. The Marshall Plan and the Truman
Policy pumped billions of
> dollars into discouraged countries. Now newspapers
in those countries are
> writing about the decadent, warmongering Americans.
> I'd like to see just one of those countries that is
gloating over the
> erosion of the United States dollar build its own
airplane. Does any other
> country in the world have a plane to equal the
Boeing Jumbo Jet, the
> Lockheed Tri-Star, or the Douglas DC10? If so, why
don't they fly them?
> Why do all the International lines except Russia fly
American Planes? Why
> does no other land on earth even consider putting a
man or woman on the
> moon? You talk about Japanese technocracy, and you
get radios. You talk
> about German technocracy, and you get automobiles.
You talk about American
> technocracy, and you find men on the moon - not
once, but several times -
> and safely home again.
> You talk about scandals, and the Americans put
theirs right in the store
> window for everybody to look at. Even their
draft-dodgers are not pursued
> and hounded. They are here on our streets, and most
of them, unless they are
> breaking Canadian laws, are getting American dollars
from ma and pa at home
> to spend here.
> When the railways of France, Germany and India were
breaking down through
> age, it was the Americans who rebuilt them. When the
Pennsylvania Railroad
> and the New York Central went broke, nobody loaned
them an old caboose. Both
> are still broke.
> I can name you 5000 times when the Americans raced
to the help of other
> people in trouble. Can you name me even one time
when someone else raced to
> the Americans in trouble? I don't think there was
outside help even during
> the San Francisco earthquake.
> Our neighbors have faced it alone, and I'm one
Canadian who is damned tired
> of hearing them get kicked around. They will come
out of this thing with
> their flag high. And when they do, they are entitled
to thumb their nose at
> the lands that are gloating over their present
troubles. I hope Canada is
> not one of those."
__________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 10:35:47 +0100
Subject: Suspect coil
I feel like I may be intruding, but dare to ask anyway, and see
below..
I suspect that my coil may be packing up. Twice, my car has
refused to start after sitting in a car park for about 2 pints
worth of time, say an hour max. Symptons:-
everything turns over strongly,
plenty of petrol getting through,
not the slightest apparent spark as no firing at all
engine not hot or wet or whatever.
I do have a Petronix, which I do not really suspect. So, no
condenser to blame.
Carbs set up is fine.
Timing spot on.
Car runs (to pub) fine. Just won't leave.
When car does start, 95% of time, it lights up first click.
Car starts fine after another half hour or so.
Coil is elderly. Don't know if it's original since new (doubt
it), but it looks(!) OK and I have cleaned up all the contacts,
which were fine anyway. All leads are, apparently at least, good
and are the old wire type so not particularly prone to problems?
I know how to test for a dead coil, but how to test if one is
failing? Do they get hot and fail, then cool down and work again?
And, if I do replace it, what, if any, is the advantage of a
"sports" coil?
I watch the news on TV all the time. Remain almost numbed by The
Twin Towers and the Pentagon. Your President has some tough
choices ahead. It seems that he must act - and I hope he does. It
seems that his first strike, as it were, is likely to create more
martyrs to the cause than terrorists killed. But that's less
important if one remembers that someone has embarked upon a war
with civilization and must expect there to be more than one
strike per war. As long as the people that matter in the West,
and I do not include all of Europe, hold their nerve the war can
be won just as sure as they can run out of martyrs.
(I recall the gap between what we used to think about the
Kamikazes - bold young heroes desperate to die for Hirowhosit and
a chrysanthemum - and the truth as it now emerges. Brave enough
and effective enough, but not all volunteers and the whole
reality far from the Japanese news reels. My point being that
maybe we should discount, to an extent at least, the theory of an
endless stream of bright young martyrs willing to die for their
cause. I can't bring myself to call it a "just cause".
I'll stop waffling now.)
Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 04:53:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Suspect coil
Simon I'm not buying the coil.... Replace it and see... ( I call that
modular maintenence... well practiced by our parts changers...mechanic's
don't exsist anymore)
I would bet you have a marginal connection in a Wire somewhere that with
heat causes it to expand and loose Voltage.... try this for me.... Jump the
coil wire next time it does this... ( can't remember if the pertronix will
allow that or not? I think it gets it's power the same way thou... so this
should still work )
oh and this could be the spark plug wire to the cap from the coil as
well....
I really liked Vapor lock as the problem here but your eliminating that as
an issue.... Hmmm
and as an American thank you for the kind words..
Keith Turk
----- Original Message -----
From: "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@virgin.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2001 4:35 AM
Subject: Suspect coil
>
> I feel like I may be intruding, but dare to ask anyway, and see
> below..
>
> I suspect that my coil may be packing up. Twice, my car has
> refused to start after sitting in a car park for about 2 pints
> worth of time, say an hour max. Symptons:-
> everything turns over strongly,
> plenty of petrol getting through,
> not the slightest apparent spark as no firing at all
> engine not hot or wet or whatever.
> I do have a Petronix, which I do not really suspect. So, no
> condenser to blame.
> Carbs set up is fine.
> Timing spot on.
> Car runs (to pub) fine. Just won't leave.
> When car does start, 95% of time, it lights up first click.
> Car starts fine after another half hour or so.
> Coil is elderly. Don't know if it's original since new (doubt
> it), but it looks(!) OK and I have cleaned up all the contacts,
> which were fine anyway. All leads are, apparently at least, good
> and are the old wire type so not particularly prone to problems?
>
> I know how to test for a dead coil, but how to test if one is
> failing? Do they get hot and fail, then cool down and work again?
>
> And, if I do replace it, what, if any, is the advantage of a
> "sports" coil?
>
> I watch the news on TV all the time. Remain almost numbed by The
> Twin Towers and the Pentagon. Your President has some tough
> choices ahead. It seems that he must act - and I hope he does. It
> seems that his first strike, as it were, is likely to create more
> martyrs to the cause than terrorists killed. But that's less
> important if one remembers that someone has embarked upon a war
> with civilization and must expect there to be more than one
> strike per war. As long as the people that matter in the West,
> and I do not include all of Europe, hold their nerve the war can
> be won just as sure as they can run out of martyrs.
> (I recall the gap between what we used to think about the
> Kamikazes - bold young heroes desperate to die for Hirowhosit and
> a chrysanthemum - and the truth as it now emerges. Brave enough
> and effective enough, but not all volunteers and the whole
> reality far from the Japanese news reels. My point being that
> maybe we should discount, to an extent at least, the theory of an
> endless stream of bright young martyrs willing to die for their
> cause. I can't bring myself to call it a "just cause".
> I'll stop waffling now.)
> Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 07:28:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Terrorist attack
David Ward wrote:
> Sincerest condolences to our American cousins.
> David.
Thanks, David! Several "colonists" were in the UK for the autojumble at
Beaulieu last weekend. Three went back on Monday AM and my buddy and I stayed
to
visit other places around Birmingham and Warwick and Brighton. When the news of
the tragedy was made known, strangers on the streets and in the pubs came up to
us w/ words of sympathy. I can't remember anyone anywhere that was as nice as
your countrymen.
We were supposed to return on Wednesday, the 12th, and did get out on
Friday,
the 14th. Everywhere, and I do mean everywhere, people went out of the way to
express sympathy. When we mentioned that there were a lot of British citizens
affected as well, they sort of blew that off and reiterated that they were truly
sorry for the US.
Anyway, we're back now and I plan to return next year. How could I not go
back to a country that treated us so very well? Thanks!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 07:35:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Vredestein tires
"Gary R. Cox" wrote:
> Is anyone out there running Vredestein tires on a BJ8-II, specifically the
> 185/70R15 Sprint+ model. If so, how do you like the aesthetics (looks) and
> handling (feel)?
>
I got a set earlier this year but have only put about 3,500 miles on them. So
far, I'm pretty impressed w/ them. They run fairly quiet and don't give an
overly harsh ride. The "S" rated tires ride a little smoother than the higher
speed ratings but I didn't see the need for "Z" rated tires on a Healey,
especially mine. I think you'd like them.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 09:26:49 -0400
Subject: frustrations
I know that all of you are disturbed over the attack on america
last Tuesday. I just thought I'd share some observations of my
own with respect to responses. I am luckier than many of you
in that I am closer to NYC and have a chance to perhaps work out
my frustrations first hand. Whereever you are, I salute the
acts of sympathy and support that have been comming forth; but
being closer, I had a chance to try something.
Most of my day to day work involves writing papers and giving
advice to people on what "they" should do... I am a kind of
consultant. But Tuesday night, one of my colleagues walked into
my office and suggested that we should think of some new
investments that our company should make in light of the events
of the morning. He proceeded to list off a couple of studies
and concept exploration ideas. One of them was to see if we
could invent a way to scan for cell phones lost in a pile of
rubble. I looked at him, stopped him mid-sentence and I said:
"let's not study it, let's build it, and moreover let's build it
in 3 hours."... He gave me a funny look and then nearly
instantaneously his face broke into a committed grin. He said:
"of course, why didn't I think of that, we have the talent
around us."... So, we immediately started doing two things:
Assembling our staff skilled in antenna, signal processing, cell
phone, radiation pattern analysis, and software design and we
gave them the task of building a prototype and getting it tested
within 3 hours. Even short handed (because a lot of people had
departed the office due to emotional response to the event) and
even though it was late in the day, we had a proof of concept
capability detecting cell phones (there are different varieties
of cell phones, we were able to locate most of them) on our back
parking lot within 2 hours of the first conversation in my
office. That was the first thing. The second thing was to try
to contact the New York City emergency crews and try to find out
if someone was already doing what we suggested. Contacting NYC
was the hard part of our work. It would take us 6 hours before
we eventually were able to make connections. We used Senator
Kenedy's office, we used the Air Force Crisis Action Team (using
General to General contacts to make that happen), and we used
the Army. But even with all that "horse power" it took several
hours to contact someone on the front lines that understood what
we were proposing... to detect cell phones that might have been
carried by victims and to thereby be able to point rescuers to
potential survivors...We needed to know if someone else was
already doing that. Our answer back: No.... So we now broke
into full swing to get our little "benchtested" idea
replicated. We bought 20 more sets of equipment... (we found a
supplier in New Jersey that was open late... and we brought in
our own purchasing staff to make the proper approvals in our
company).. and we started making hotel and transportation van
arrangements for our volunteers to head towards New York City.
As we worked through our connections, we discovered some really
good technology that was better than our "2 hour bench tested
special"... but it was equipment located in California and in
Florida. The problem for both of those pieces of equipment was
transportation. The air transportation system was shut down.
Using another friend, we made connections at senior (very very
senior) levels in the FAA and arranged for flight approval of an
aircraft from Florida. Unfortunately for us, the ground
shifted at the rescue site, and our FBI contacts (yes, we had by
this time enlisted FBI help too.... and FEMA.. and lots of other
folk) decided that there would be no further activity at the
rubble site because it was unsafe. Therefore the urgency for
the flights had disappeared, and the FAA "silver bullet" we had
just spent went for naught.... the flight never happened.
Instead, that equipment was loaded on vans and driven to the
site to be applied 36 hours later.
We elected, in spite of the search situation to send a team of
our people to join up with some Army people in New Jersey.
Some of our contacts there arranged for a police escort to NYC,
but we still needed an entry to Lower Manhattan.
We still don't know which of our query threads provided us the
approvals or connections we needed, it could have been through
Congress, FEMA, the Air Force, or Army, and whichever it was,
there were many other agencies and departments involved, because
it was the New York Emergency Management Office that we needed
to work with. Regardless of the approval trail, it happened.
We were invited to the site. By this time we were certain that
one of the cell phone companies must have thought of the idea
too, but we still didn't know which. Not until we were at the
Javits center did we finally make contact with a team of
Verizon people were trying a related idea at the site. A short
discussion with the Verizon people established that we were not
a bunch of crackpots and we had some interesting technology and
expertise. They invited us to join them. We were at the
Javits center within 16 hours of our initial idea, and my people
were at work on the rubble site within 18 hours.
I would love to tell you that the idea worked. It didn't... we
know exactly why it didn't, and we knew that it was a long shot
anyway. There were only a handful of cell phones located by
the whole group of people involved in applying our technique.
Regardless of the outcome, I took away one very striking
impression. There was an overwhelmingly consistent presence of
one human attribute throughout the whole experience:
Cooperation.
I'm not talking about the incredible cooperation that we
received in chasing through the possibilities for our little
idea, I'm talking about the unanimity of purpose that has
involved so many people in this country. Bear in mind that what
we were offering was a long shot, not a sure-fire magic fix to
locating survivors, merely a small idea on the fringe of
technology that would barely have a chance at working.
Nevertheless, very senior people and very low level people in
lots of agencies were all willing to put in the concentrated
effort to get our idea into the arena. All through the process,
we were impressed with the incredible logistics and coordination
problem that is being handled by these mutual strangers. And
strangers they are. People who never worked together are
making sophisticated choices, orchestrating immense numbers of
volunteers, and having an incredible effect.
I know the news media are providing you an overall view of the
events. But I can give you first hand observation on the power
of cooperation. This is quite a phenomena. The spirit of the
Americans and everyone else involved is astonishing.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 14:40:07 +0100
Subject: Loss of power/carbs
I think the loss of power saga may be grinding to an end. If it
is, fingers crossed, then the car wasn't to blame.
I stuck 3 HD6s onto my BT7. It would take off like well enough -
pull like a train - but seemed to run out of puff if one kept
the right foot on the floor. Would get up to revs quite slowly
etcetc.
Anyhow, I rethought everything. The carbs had come from a heap of
HD6s at a Jag rebuilder/restorer place. The vacuum chamber/piston
black plastic caps were not drilled. They should be, on these
three carbs anyhow. I drilled them and it's made one of a
difference.
Usual story...answer is right there and its usually one's own
fault.
Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 14:40:17 +0100
Subject: RE: Color
When I bought my BT7 it was BRG. It was a Mercedes "Laurel
Green". (Over Ivory White. Most people loved it, but I wanted to
change it. As much to see what was under the paint as anything
else).
Our, and the European manufacturers, often put the word "laurel"
into a colour/paint's name if they are talking about BRG. You
can't expect Stuttgart to use BRG. They'd be making Spitfires
next!
Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mark McLennan <mark at mclennan.f9.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 15:00:20 +0100
Subject: Guild of Motoring Artists
Hi All,
The Guild of Motoring Artists Website has been updated
with 5 new artists there is a selection of motorart to suit
All.
There are also limited Austin Healey prints still available
At http://www.motorart.co.uk/dpsale.html ,
If you are interested
In these and wish to take advantage of the AHCUSA
special offer price. Simply enter the code AHCUSA1 into the
other notes and instructions9 box When you check out
and you can then buy at the special AHCUSA price.
REMEMBER there are only a few left .
Regards
Mark McLennan HFGMA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Wood Jr" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 11:01:15 -0400
Subject: 1960 Sebring cars UJB141
The color on this car, as original, was called "light" British Racing Green
and was quite beautiful, but much lighter than the traditional BRG which was
almost black.
My Spruce Green 100S was especially used by Healey for one car for Jackie
Cooper, whose 100-4 was that color, and a favorite with Mr. Cooper.
Some BN2 cars, usually two-toned were also Florida green over white.
The Body Production card for the UJB 141 was only noted as British Racing
Green by the Factory and is in my possession.
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 10:15:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Suspect coil
<<And, if I do replace it, what, if any, is the advantage of a
"sports" coil?>>
Petronix says DO NOT use. They do however, make a 40k MATCHED coil for the
Ignitor.
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 09:00:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Color
Hi Gary,
Your mention of a Spruce Green used on BN1's and BN2's reminded me that
I just received my "birth certificate" from the Heritage Archives for my
BN2. It's original color was listed as Fern Green. Just as a matter of
interest, I wonder if this was a common color, and was it a much lighter
shade of green than that generally considered to be BRG?
Haven't had chance yet, but will have to search around the car for any
evidence of the original color. It has been painted many other colors
over the years for sure.
Russ Staub
67 BJ8
56 BN2
Mesa, AZ
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
There is not one specific shade that is the "Official
> British Racing Green."
There was also a Spruce Green that is often referred to as BRG, that
was used on BN1s
> and BN2s.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bonas420 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 12:25:26 EDT
Subject: 9/16 NW PA British Car Show; Waterford, PA
Show is Sunday from 12-4pm. No fee, no judging, just plain fun. The show is
located 11 miles south of Interstate 90 on Rte 19/97 in the historic
Waterford Town Square. For anyone that is interested please email
Healey@docksider.net for more details.
happy healeying
nathan bennett
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bonas420 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 12:28:09 EDT
Subject: NW PA Car show
Sunday 9/16, 12-4pm. no fees, no judging.
email healey@docksider.net for more details.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 14:01:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Suspect coil
I just had the same symptoms. I went and bought a coil (after trying my spare
condenser)
It turned out that my condenser was the culprit. Try it first (much cheaper)
Rick
San Diego
Getting back to routine of strong American life
In a message dated 9/15/01 2:47:02, simon.lachlan@virgin.net writes:
<<
I feel like I may be intruding, but dare to ask anyway, and see
below..
I suspect that my coil may be packing up. Twice, my car has
refused to start after sitting in a car park for about 2 pints
worth of time, say an hour max. Symptons:-
everything turns over strongly,
plenty of petrol getting through,
not the slightest apparent spark as no firing at all
engine not hot or wet or whatever.
I do have a Petronix, which I do not really suspect. So, no
condenser to blame.
Carbs set up is fine.
Timing spot on.
Car runs (to pub) fine. Just won't leave.
When car does start, 95% of time, it lights up first click.
Car starts fine after another half hour or so.
Coil is elderly. Don't know if it's original since new (doubt
it), but it looks(!) OK and I have cleaned up all the contacts,
which were fine anyway. All leads are, apparently at least, good
and are the old wire type so not particularly prone to problems?
I know how to test for a dead coil, but how to test if one is
failing? Do they get hot and fail, then cool down and work again?
And, if I do replace it, what, if any, is the advantage of a
"sports" coil?
I watch the news on TV all the time. Remain almost numbed by The
Twin Towers and the Pentagon. Your President has some tough
choices ahead. It seems that he must act - and I hope he does. It
seems that his first strike, as it were, is likely to create more
martyrs to the cause than terrorists killed. But that's less
important if one remembers that someone has embarked upon a war
with civilization and must expect there to be more than one
strike per war. As long as the people that matter in the West,
and I do not include all of Europe, hold their nerve the war can
be won just as sure as they can run out of martyrs.
(I recall the gap between what we used to think about the
Kamikazes - bold young heroes desperate to die for Hirowhosit and
a chrysanthemum - and the truth as it now emerges. Brave enough
and effective enough, but not all volunteers and the whole
reality far from the Japanese news reels. My point being that
maybe we should discount, to an extent at least, the theory of an
endless stream of bright young martyrs willing to die for their
cause. I can't bring myself to call it a "just cause".
I'll stop waffling now.)
Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 15:13:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Suspect coil
Don't forget that your symptoms could be caused by an intermittent short to
ground somewhere in the grounding wire that connects the cut-off switch to
the coil. Disconnect the white/black wire at the point where it goes from the
main harness to the chassis harness under the fuse block and see if the car
starts. If it does, then you've got a bad cut-off switch or the cut-off wire
is shorting to the frame somewhere between the switch and main harness.
(had those symptoms myself and finally find the problem was due to the
circlip that holds the shaft of the cut-off switch had gone missing and the
shaft was popping out just far enough to ground the coil wire.)
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 13:51:43 +0100
Subject: Take a deep breath
Return-Path: <worldsong@earthlink.net>
Received: from hawk.mail.pas.earthlink.net ([207.217.120.22]) by
mail.macconnect.com (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO203-101c) ID#
0-62295U6000L600S0V35) with ESMTP id AAA20119 for
<LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; Sat, 15 Sep 2001 15:36:10 -0400
Received: from earthlink.net
(pool0564.cvx29-bradley.dialup.earthlink.net [209.179.136.54]) by
hawk.mail.pas.earthlink.net (EL-8_9_3_3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA13649;
Sat, 15 Sep 2001 12:34:45 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <3BA3AD54.3ADBC348@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 12:34:58 -0700
From: Henrietta McKee Carter <worldsong@earthlink.net>
Organization: Rossmoor Voice Studio
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.74 (Macintosh; U; PPC)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
Subject: [Fwd: "a heartfelt thank you"]
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: "a heartfelt thank you"
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 14:38:38 -0400 (EDT)
from a friend
To: Undisclosed recipients: ;
Forwarded by Floyd Wige, who comments: "In spite of all the hate and
sorrow of the past few days, I would like to share the following page with
you. A friend pointed this out to me, and I hope you will find it as
moving as I did."
http://140.141.24.32/wtc/thankyou.html
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 16:23:07 -0500
Subject: Personal stories of the tragedy.
I guess that a lot of us will have personal stories relating to the
tragedy at the WTC.
I received this e-mail from my brother-in-law in California:
From: Lynn Donaldson
>To: Shirley Yarber
>Subject: Re: Note from Shirley
>Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 09:17:18 -0700
>
>Hi Shirley and Don, We just returned last night from Flagstaff visiting
>Jack and Dian. I was glad to see your mail as I was concerned about Diane
>and family. David was scheduled to go to NY for training with Morgan
>Stanley at the trade center last Sunday but had rescheduled to the end of
>the month. Also Jeff works for Morgan Stanley and goes to NY often. So you
>can imagine how thankful we are that they were not there this week. We need
>to count our blessings in this troubling time. Love to you both, Peggy and
>Lynn
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 16:09:26 -0600
Subject: temp gauge
First a personal thanks to our overseas, Canadian, Mexican , and South
American friends for their heartfelt condolences.
Will spray painting the flex sending wire on the temp gauge affected its
operation?
Thanks, Sid 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 19:02:22 EDT
Subject: Colorado Grand photos...
Hi Everyone,
The Colorado Grand, a charity fund raiser for Colorado Charities, finished
yesterday. This is their 13 year and they have raised over 1.3 million so
far. Many of the 74 entrants were from the NY area but chose to complete the
rally in spite of the circumstances including personal loss as it was for
charity. They drove with flags on their cars in honor of the dead and
missing. I took some photos of some of these magnificent cars and thought
you would like to see them. I have posted them at two web sites for viewing.
You may feel free to download any of the pictures that you like and use them
as you please. The sites are:
http://members.aol.com/HealeyHundred/
and
http://members.aol.com/AustinHealeyBN1/
These will bring you to the list of photos that you can click on to view each
of the photos. Let me know what you think.
Richard Gordon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Tom & Sue Gebhart" <tom.sue.gebhart at netzero.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 18:45:40 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Convertible Top (Hood)
I've been off the list for awhile so hope this is not a recently answered
question.
A summer hail storm made short work of the original top on our 67 BJ8 and I
was wondering if there is any sentiment on the list for one vendor's product
over any other. Any good/not good experiences you could share would be
greatly appreciated. Want to get a new top on before winter. Should I try
to install it myself?
I have samples from Heritage Upholstery & Trim that look very much like my
original material. Anybody use them recently? How about their upholstery
or carpet?
Thanks to all.
Tom & Sue
Gebhart
Only $9.95 per month!
Sign up in September to win one of 30 Hawaiian Vacations for 2!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ZManDino at aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 19:46:06 EDT
Subject: SO TRUE
If I knew it would be the last time I'd see you fall asleep, I would tuck you
in more tightly and pray the Lord your soul to keep.
If I knew it would be the last time I'd see you walk out the door, I would
hug you and kiss you and call you back for one more.
If I knew it would be the last time I'd hear your name lifted up in praise, I
would video tape each action and sound, so I could play it back for days.
If I knew it would be the last time to spare an extra minute or two, I'd
stop and say "I love you", instead of assuming that you knew.
For surely there is tomorrow to make up for an oversight and we'll always get
a second chance to make everything all right.
There will be another chance to say our "I love you's", and certainly there's
another chance to say our "Anything I can do's?"
But just in case I might be wrong, and today is all I get, I'd like to say
right now, how much I love you and hope you never forget.
Tomorrow is not promised to anyone, young or old alike, and today might be
your last chance to hold your loved one tight.
So, if you're waiting for tomorrow, why not do it all today? For if tomorrow
never comes, you'll surely regret the day that you didn't take the extra time
for a smile, a hug or kiss. And you're surely too busy to grant someone what
turned out to be their last wish.
So hold your loved ones close today and whisper in their ear. Tell them how
much you love them and how you'll always hold them dear.
Take the time to say "I'm sorry, please forgive me, thank you, or, it's OK".
If tomorrow never comes, you'll have no regrets about today.
Apologize and start a new, and tell the one who loves you that you love them
too!
Cherish every single moment....You see...I DO!!!!!
Author: Unknown
Sometimes we all need a little reminder.
Helga Zanini, BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 22:31:55 -0400
Subject: BJ8 tonneau cover installation
Hi All,
I have received my Heritage tonneau...it looks really nice. I can easily
determine the location of all the various snaps and fasteners with the
exception of one on each side. There are basically two flaps that I think
need a fastener...these seem to locate on the stud just to the rear of the
doors. One flap is on the rear part of the cover, the other flap is on the
front portion. Does anyone know what I'm talking about?? If you do...do I
mount the fastener to both flaps at the same time, or just the inner...or
what? Do I overlap the flaps and put the fastener through both? Help!
Thanks,
Dave
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 05:33:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Colorado Grand photos...
hi richard-
thanks for the trip !! good pics. xkss has always been one of my great
covets. especially liked the shot of the xkss with the d in the background.
happy healeying,
jerry
HealeyHundred@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> The Colorado Grand, a charity fund raiser for Colorado Charities, finished
> yesterday. This is their 13 year and they have raised over 1.3 million so
> far. Many of the 74 entrants were from the NY area but chose to complete the
> rally in spite of the circumstances including personal loss as it was for
> charity. They drove with flags on their cars in honor of the dead and
> missing. I took some photos of some of these magnificent cars and thought
> you would like to see them. I have posted them at two web sites for viewing.
> You may feel free to download any of the pictures that you like and use them
> as you please. The sites are:
> http://members.aol.com/HealeyHundred/
> and
> http://members.aol.com/AustinHealeyBN1/
> These will bring you to the list of photos that you can click on to view each
> of the photos. Let me know what you think.
>
> Richard Gordon
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 10:13:21 -0500
Subject: H6's on 100
I read a post recently regarding the vent holes on HS6's where the cap
attaches to the top of the dash pots. I looked at my original H6's and find
that the brass caps do not have any vent holes. I have only found one
diagram in my SU manual that shows a drawing of the cap and it clearly shows
a small hole drilled through the cap. I have little history on my car and
therefore don't know if my caps are original to the carbs. Perhaps it was
put only on some H6's although it would seem that if it was necessary on
some it would apply to all. It would be interesting to know if the caps
supplied originally did in fact have these vents as it would be a simple
matter to drill them. I have been chasing an elusive acceleration stumble
problem although constant engine speed at any r.p.m. appear normal.
Mark
Nashville
BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 09:24:00 -0600
Subject: Re: 1960 Sebring cars UJB141
Just an aside....
I attending the unveiling of the addition of the British atomic bomb to
the National Atomic Museum here in Albuq. several years ago. Of course, it
was painted British Racing Green.........
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Classic-Car-World" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 17:36:53 +0100
Subject: Corgi Austin Healey 3000 MKII
The attached appeared in one of our National newspapers this weekend. I =
have kept the image size to a minimum because of posting to the group, =
if anyone would like a more detailed copy please e-mail me off list.
The usual non involvement disclaimers apply, I'm just passing this on as =
interest to the group.
Regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 705 9115
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk=20
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of AH
corgi.jpg]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred "Ooman" <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 14:14:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Carfax Report
I was recently in the market for a used pickup truck and subscribed to the
CarFax service. I did find a nice truck but my CarFax subscription still has a
few weeks to go.
Rather than letting it go to waste I'll be happy to run vin's for members of
this group.
Just email my the 17 character VIN and a email address that can accept html
messages.
Email info to: kingpin@cosmo.com
BTW I got a 2wd auto '99 Chevy S10 with the 6cyl Vortec engine. Only 22k and 2
years left on an extended warranty. I like it, nice drive for a PU truck. My
68BJ8 was my daily driver, time to give it some well earned weekdays off.
==
Fred
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 17:43:24 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 tonneau cover installation
Dave wrote:
> I have received my Heritage tonneau...it looks really nice. I can easily
> determine the location of all the various snaps and fasteners with the
> exception of one on each side. There are basically two flaps that I think
> need a fastener...these seem to locate on the stud just to the rear of the
> doors. One flap is on the rear part of the cover, the other flap is on the
> front portion. Does anyone know what I'm talking about?? If you do...do I
> mount the fastener to both flaps at the same time, or just the inner...or
> what? Do I overlap the flaps and put the fastener through both? Help!
The inner flap (the forward one) gets an eyelet which will go over the stud
and will allow the end of the stud to protrude through. The outer flap (the
rear one) has a female tenax fastener installed which will fasten onto the
protruding end of the male stud.
When only the rear portion of the tonneau cover is in use, the forward
portion can be folded inboard and under, using only the tenax mounted on
the rear portion, the tonneau bar for support, and the two flaps which each
have 2 female lift-a-dot fasteners which snap onto the male studs on the
vertical panel directly behind the front seats.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 14:57:24 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 tonneau cover installation
David: I, too, have recently received my new tonneau from Heritage and it
looks great. My situation is that I have to cut into it and install zippers
to go around my roll bar. Ouch! I'll get up the nerve one of these days.
To answer your question, however, the front flap uses the brass grommets
that came in the fasteners kit. The rear flap uses the Tenax fasteners.
When fastening the tonneau to the car, the front flap goes on first with the
grommets going over the stud behind the door and up against the body of the
car. The rear flap then overlaps the front flap and is secured with the
Tenax.
You seem to know where all the other fasteners go but I will mention that a
couple of people in the past did not know that the larger of the flaps on
top of the tonneau were designed to be snapped to studs on the bulkhead
behind the seats to hold the tonneau down when it was not covering the whole
cockpit.. I have also been asked what the two holes under the smaller flaps
were for and I explained that the over the shoulder portion of my three
point seat belt went through them. However, sometimes I question whether
that is their actual purpose because unless the seat belt is a single strap
on the 'outside' position of the driver and/or passenger, it will not work.
My seat belts have the single strap fastened to the tunnel so, again, I need
the cut and zipper to use these holes. The belt does not fit over my
shoulder properly if I try to bypass them and come up alongside the tonneau.
Len.
1967 3000 MkIII BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Masucci" <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2001 7:31 PM
Subject: BJ8 tonneau cover installation
>
> Hi All,
>
> I have received my Heritage tonneau...it looks really nice. I can easily
> determine the location of all the various snaps and fasteners with the
> exception of one on each side. There are basically two flaps that I think
> need a fastener...these seem to locate on the stud just to the rear of the
> doors. One flap is on the rear part of the cover, the other flap is on the
> front portion. Does anyone know what I'm talking about?? If you do...do I
> mount the fastener to both flaps at the same time, or just the inner...or
> what? Do I overlap the flaps and put the fastener through both? Help!
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
>
> BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 17:04:49 -0500
Subject: Tonneau covers and other things
This may sound like a rhetorical question, but why do the vendors send out
these tonneau and top kits without instructions? They MUST know how the
darned things are suppose to fit and how they are attached to the cars. Any
VENDORS out there who can answer that question???
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 15:05:08 -0700
Subject: Re: H6's on 100
My understanding of the SUs is that if the vacuum chambers have internal
vent holes they used solid caps, otherwise they had vented caps.
-------------
At 08:13 AM 9/16/2001, you wrote:
>I read a post recently regarding the vent holes on HS6's where the cap
>attaches to the top of the dash pots. I looked at my original H6's and find
>that the brass caps do not have any vent holes. I have only found one
>diagram in my SU manual that shows a drawing of the cap and it clearly shows
>a small hole drilled through the cap. I have little history on my car and
>therefore don't know if my caps are original to the carbs. Perhaps it was
>put only on some H6's although it would seem that if it was necessary on
>some it would apply to all. It would be interesting to know if the caps
>supplied originally did in fact have these vents as it would be a simple
>matter to drill them. I have been chasing an elusive acceleration stumble
>problem although constant engine speed at any r.p.m. appear normal.
>
>Mark
>Nashville
>BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 15:10:55 -0700
Subject: Re: The Real USA
John (no last name),
I find your comments insensitive and offensive. I, along with 99.99% of
Americans have never provided SQUAT
to the IRA.
Al Adams
----- Original Message -----
From: "john" <john.metcalfe3@ntlworld.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 1999 10:25 AM
Subject: RE: The Real USA
>
> The author of the script below forgot to mention that the British have
been
> fighting terrorists for the past 30 years. These terrorists were funded by
> donations raised by the USA public.
> Yes it is easy to ignor the suffering when you are not on the recieving
end.
> I do not support what these people have done to NYC,however when pointing
> the finger remember to include all who have provided fund past and
present.
>
> John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 18:51:26 -0700
Subject: Baffled By Electrics
List,
On my 66 BJ8 with neg ground, it won't start. In fact, when I measure across
the pos and neg terms of the coil with the switch on, I get no reading on my
multimeter. If I run a wire from the battery + to the coil - terminal and
measure across the coil, I get the same 12.57 that I get directly across the
battery terminals. This tells me that there is a break in the circuit on the
Wht-Blk wire. So, switch the multimeter to ohms and test for circuit.
Apparently, with this multimeter, when there is no circuit, there is a reading
of 1. The instructions agree that this is correct. When you test for a
circuit, the reading goes to less than 1, but stays above zero. So, testing
for the battery all along the way to the coil, there is a circuit present.
Good. In fact taking a reading from the battery post to the coil, there is a
circuit. This tells me that there is no break in the Wht-Blk wire. The car has
been sitting for 10 years, but has a new coil, condenser, clean points, good
rotor,... the last three make no difference at this point. Anyone have any
ideas? Another point that befuddles me is this: Why does the Wht-Blk wire that
goes to the + side of the battery go to the - side of the coil? Since the
Haynes manual calls the - on the coil CB, does this mean that the coil does
necessarily have polarity, but rather direction? Has someone intentionally or
inadvertently reversed the polarity? Can' be that, the way that it is is what
the wiring diagram shows. Can anyone give me a clue as to where the voltage
might be going? Do I just need to replace the Wht-Blk wire and not worry? What
to do, what to do? I will not be able to check the replies before Friday, but
any help will be appreciated.
Bob Johnson
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 18:15:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Corgi Austin Healey 3000 MKII
Tom:
<<Thanks Ed, wasn't sure if the group accepted binaries or not, guess not.
I won't be able to post this on my site until late next week, if you could
do it for me I would be most grateful.
Regards
Tom
AH 3000 Mk III BJ8>>
May be found at http://www.justbrits.com/ahcorgi.jpg
Regards.......
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 18:32:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Tonneau covers and other things
<<This may sound like a rhetorical question, >>
Yeah, Don it is<G>!!
<<but why do the vendors send out
these tonneau and top kits without instructions? >>
"What" is to "instruct"?? How to install a couple of "fasteners??
<< They MUST know how the
darned things are suppose to fit >>
Yep.
<<and how they are attached to the cars.>>
Nope. The prob is that there are DPOs in the world. Any given car could
have Tenax where Lift-the-Dot belongs. Visa-versa. Or maybe just Snaps.
And to ADD to the "confusion", LOCATIONS vary car to car.
Might only be by an 1/8 of an inch, BUT when you "try" to "stretch", WHO are
you calling the "dumb SOB"??
The Manufacturer, of course. To make things worse (in my case[and others])
there IS a BIG difference between the BJ-7 top and or tonneau and BJ-8, even
tho they are both Converts.
<<Any VENDORS out there who can answer that question???>>
Nope<G>.
The above "clear as mud"?? Same prob. manufacturers face.<F>
Regards.............
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 21:50:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: British Car Day 2001-Bronte, Ontario
This is a brief report on the British Car Day held in Ontario, Canada
today.
Other than at Healey events, I never saw so many Healeys before. My
guess is that over 1,000 British cars attended British Car Day in
Bronte, Ontario and about 40 were Healeys. The sky was clear, the sun
shone brightly, and many varied and rare cars lined up for the large
crowd that came for the show. Oh ya, you always have some negative
vibes-some participants didn't like the dust. Guess you can't please
every one.
The vendors were quite plentiful and offered some Healey 'stuff'. Russ
Bamsey, a member of the Austin Healey Club of Southern Ontario, had a
booth with his demo Armstrong shock [real neat-he has cut a shock in
half and you can actually see how they work] and rebuilding service.
If anyone needs an MGB overdrive transmission, Russ has one available.
[email: ia549@worldchat.com ] A few sites had individuals (vs vendors)
with a variety of 'stuff' for sale.
The three classes of Healeys included Convertible, Roadster, and Sprite
[Ok-I didn't pick them] My notes indicate the following results:
Convertible [BJ7 & BJ8]
1st - Ed Orr with his beautifully restored blue BJ8
2nd - Tom Hauber with a spotless BRG BJ8
[given the dust, I don't know how Tom kept it clean]
3rd - Bob Slater with a red & white BJ7
Roadster [100, 100-6, & 3000 BN7 & BT7]
1st - Paul Ross with his beautiful Jaguar powered Healey
2nd - Blair Harber with his fantastic polished aluminum bodied
preproduction AHX14
[Note # 1: At Watkins Glen last weekend, Blair's car was 2nd
in class and took Peoples Choice]
[Note # 2: If you want to see a write up and photo's of this
car, check out Larry Varley's web site at
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
You will also find a write up of the restoration of
the first production 100, #24, that Blair has started]
3rd - Graham Secord's gorgeous 100
[Graham took about 7 years and did it all himself, painting
included - a beautiful job.]
Sprite
1st - Mike Lupynec with his 1959 blue bugeye sprite
2nd - Martyn Ridley with his freshly restored leaf green bugeye
3rd - Greg Higgins with his 1963 Mk II sprite [This summer, Greg had
the car judged and it scored a gold]
[Note: In 2000, Martyn placed 1st, Mike got 2nd and Greg took 3rd-these
guys have the Sprite category all to themselves although there were
over 10 sprites on display.]
At the end of the day, when awards were handed out [it took about an
hour] Dave Simpson took a number of member photos which I'm sure our
club newsletter scribe will enjoy.
All in all, it was a great day and the Toronto Triumph Club, who puts
it on, deserves a big hand.
Finally, I made my better half quite happy when I returned home with
only a smile and all of my money. I'm not sure how I did that one.
--Scott Morris [62 BT7 driver-when it runs; 60 BN7 project car-some
day]
Simcoe, Ontario
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
Get your free @yahoo.ca address at http://mail.yahoo.ca
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 21:51:18 EDT
Subject: Check out http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/colors.rtf
David,
I found the ICI reference codes for Healeys, I hope that means something to
paint people. I am sure it does and I have seen it listed other places.
Anyway, BRG is code 9767 back to 1963 and then it was 8120 before that. Hope
this helps you, especially if you want the right color.
Dave Duffey
'59 BT 7
<A HREF="http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/colors.rtf";>Click here:
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/colors.rtf</A>
or go to:
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/colors.rtf
David wrote:
Can someone provide me with the color code for British Racing Green for my
BJ8.
Thanks
David Neale
BN7
BJ8
1963/64
AUSTIN HEALEY BLACK
0122
Model 3000 OLD ENGLISH WHITE/IVORY 2379
FLORIDA GREEN 2997
COLORADO RED 3742
MET. ICE BLUE 2301m
BRITISH RACING GREEN 9767
AUSTIN HEALEY BLACK 0122
Sprite OLD ENGLISH WHITE 2379
RED / SIGNAL RED 6200
BRHISH RACING GREEN 9767
IRIS BLUE 3243
FIESTA YELLOW 3484
RIVIERA BLUE (from March 1963) 4022
MODEL ICI REF
1964/65
Page 5
AUSTIN HEALEY
Model 3000 BLACK 0122
OLD ENGLISH WHITE/IVORY 2379
FLORIDA GREEN 2997
COLORADO RED 3742
MET. ICE BLUE 2301m
BRITISH RACING GREEN 9767
AUSTIN HEALEY BLACK 0122
Sprite OLD ENGLISH WHITE 2379
RED / SIGNAL RED 6200
BRITISH RACING GREEN 9767
IRIS BLUE 3243
FIESTA YELLOW 3484
RIVIERA BLUE 4022
1965/66
AUSTIN HEALEY
Model 3000 BLACK 0122
OLD ENGLISH WHITE / IVORY 2379
FLORIDA GREEN 2997
COLORADO RED 3742
MET. ICE BLUE 2301m
BRITISH RACING GREEN 9767
AUSTIN HEALEY
Sprite BLACK 0122
OLD ENGLISH WHITE 2379
RED / SIGNAL RED 6200
BRITISH RACING GREEN 9767
IRIS BLUE 3243
FIESTA YELIOW 3484
RIVIERA BLUE 4022
TARTAN RED?
AUSTIN HEALEY SPORTS CARS, 1953 - 1970
MODEL ICI REF.
1966/67 Page 6
AUSTIN HEALEY BLACK 0122
Model 3000 OLD ENGLISH WHITE / IVORY 2379
FLORIDA GREEN 2997
COLORADO RED 3742
MET. ICE BLUE 2301m
BRITISH RACING GREEN 9767
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 18:56:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Baffled By Electrics - WHO ISN"T??!! ;-)
Robert -
That black and white wire which goes to the battery
master switch is a theft prevention device - it
grounds the coil when the battery master switch is
turned off.
It is quite common for the battery master switches to
break over time, grounding the coil (throught the B&W
wire) even when the switch is in the on position.
Disconnect the B&W wire from the battery master switch
and see if that fixes your problem. If it does, get
yourself a new battery master switch!
Remember the WTC!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Robert Johnson <bandrj@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> List,
>
> On my 66 BJ8 with neg ground, it won't start. In
> fact, when I measure across
> the pos and neg terms of the coil with the switch
> on, I get no reading on my
> multimeter. If I run a wire from the battery + to
> the coil - terminal and
> measure across the coil, I get the same 12.57 that I
> get directly across the
> battery terminals. This tells me that there is a
> break in the circuit on the
> Wht-Blk wire.
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 19:03:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: temp gauge
Sid -
You can paint it any color you like! The only thing
that will effect the operation is kinking, cracking or
cutting the wire (it's actually a tube).
Remember the WTC!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- bronson <bron@rmci.net> wrote:
>
> First a personal thanks to our overseas, Canadian,
> Mexican , and South
> American friends for their heartfelt condolences.
>
> Will spray painting the flex sending wire on the
> temp gauge affected its
> operation?
> Thanks, Sid 65 BJ8
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Bridger" <RBridger01 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 22:51:25 -0400
Subject: Baffled By Electronics
Robert,
When the car was designed with a positive ground, closing of the points
applied +12 volts to the "CB" terminal and the "SW" terminal was grounded. If
you switch to a negative ground, you should switch the leads so the "CB"
terminal still has +12 volts.
If the battery cut off switch is ok, then we need to know if you have power to
the starter relay.
Bob
BJ 7 & BJ 8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 20:27:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: frustrations
Skip -
great story!
Remember the WTC!
Alan
'53 BN! '66 BJ8
--- skip <tfsbj7@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
> I know that all of you are disturbed over the attack
> on america
> last Tuesday. I just thought I'd share some
> observations of my
> own with respect to responses. I am luckier than
> many of you
> in that I am closer to NYC and have a chance to
> perhaps work out
> my frustrations first hand. Whereever you are, I
> salute the
> acts of sympathy and support that have been comming
> forth; but
> being closer, I had a chance to try something.
>
> Most of my day to day work involves writing papers
> and giving
> advice to people on what "they" should do... I am a
> kind of
> consultant. But Tuesday night, one of my colleagues
> walked into
> my office and suggested that we should think of some
> new
> investments that our company should make in light of
> the events
> of the morning. He proceeded to list off a couple
> of studies
> and concept exploration ideas. One of them was to
> see if we
> could invent a way to scan for cell phones lost in a
> pile of
> rubble. I looked at him, stopped him mid-sentence
> and I said:
> "let's not study it, let's build it, and moreover
> let's build it
> in 3 hours."... He gave me a funny look and then
> nearly
> instantaneously his face broke into a committed
> grin. He said:
> "of course, why didn't I think of that, we have the
> talent
> around us."... So, we immediately started doing two
> things:
> Assembling our staff skilled in antenna, signal
> processing, cell
> phone, radiation pattern analysis, and software
> design and we
> gave them the task of building a prototype and
> getting it tested
> within 3 hours. Even short handed (because a lot
> of people had
> departed the office due to emotional response to the
> event) and
> even though it was late in the day, we had a proof
> of concept
> capability detecting cell phones (there are
> different varieties
> of cell phones, we were able to locate most of them)
> on our back
> parking lot within 2 hours of the first conversation
> in my
> office. That was the first thing. The second
> thing was to try
> to contact the New York City emergency crews and try
> to find out
> if someone was already doing what we suggested.
> Contacting NYC
> was the hard part of our work. It would take us 6
> hours before
> we eventually were able to make connections. We
> used Senator
> Kenedy's office, we used the Air Force Crisis Action
> Team (using
> General to General contacts to make that happen),
> and we used
> the Army. But even with all that "horse power" it
> took several
> hours to contact someone on the front lines that
> understood what
> we were proposing... to detect cell phones that
> might have been
> carried by victims and to thereby be able to point
> rescuers to
> potential survivors...We needed to know if someone
> else was
> already doing that. Our answer back: No.... So we
> now broke
> into full swing to get our little "benchtested" idea
> replicated. We bought 20 more sets of equipment...
> (we found a
> supplier in New Jersey that was open late... and we
> brought in
> our own purchasing staff to make the proper
> approvals in our
> company).. and we started making hotel and
> transportation van
> arrangements for our volunteers to head towards New
> York City.
>
> As we worked through our connections, we discovered
> some really
> good technology that was better than our "2 hour
> bench tested
> special"... but it was equipment located in
> California and in
> Florida. The problem for both of those pieces of
> equipment was
> transportation. The air transportation system was
> shut down.
> Using another friend, we made connections at senior
> (very very
> senior) levels in the FAA and arranged for flight
> approval of an
> aircraft from Florida. Unfortunately for us, the
> ground
> shifted at the rescue site, and our FBI contacts
> (yes, we had by
> this time enlisted FBI help too.... and FEMA.. and
> lots of other
> folk) decided that there would be no further
> activity at the
> rubble site because it was unsafe. Therefore the
> urgency for
> the flights had disappeared, and the FAA "silver
> bullet" we had
> just spent went for naught.... the flight never
> happened.
> Instead, that equipment was loaded on vans and
> driven to the
> site to be applied 36 hours later.
>
> We elected, in spite of the search situation to send
> a team of
> our people to join up with some Army people in New
> Jersey.
> Some of our contacts there arranged for a police
> escort to NYC,
> but we still needed an entry to Lower Manhattan.
>
> We still don't know which of our query threads
> provided us the
> approvals or connections we needed, it could have
> been through
> Congress, FEMA, the Air Force, or Army, and
> whichever it was,
> there were many other agencies and departments
> involved, because
> it was the New York Emergency Management Office that
> we needed
> to work with. Regardless of the approval trail, it
> happened.
> We were invited to the site. By this time we were
> certain that
> one of the cell phone companies must have thought of
> the idea
> too, but we still didn't know which. Not until we
> were at the
> Javits center did we finally make contact with a
> team of
> Verizon people were trying a related idea at the
> site. A short
> discussion with the Verizon people established that
> we were not
> a bunch of crackpots and we had some interesting
> technology and
> expertise. They invited us to join them. We were
> at the
> Javits center within 16 hours of our initial idea,
> and my people
> were at work on the rubble site within 18 hours.
>
> I would love to tell you that the idea worked. It
> didn't... we
> know exactly why it didn't, and we knew that it was
> a long shot
> anyway. There were only a handful of cell phones
> located by
> the whole group of people involved in applying our
> technique.
> Regardless of the outcome, I took away one very
> striking
> impression. There was an overwhelmingly consistent
> presence of
> one human attribute throughout the whole experience:
> Cooperation.
>
> I'm not talking about the incredible cooperation
> that we
> received in chasing through the possibilities for
> our little
> idea, I'm talking about the unanimity of purpose
> that has
> involved so many people in this country. Bear in
> mind that what
> we were offering was a long shot, not a sure-fire
> magic fix to
> locating survivors, merely a small idea on the
> fringe of
> technology that would barely have a chance at
> working.
> Nevertheless, very senior people and very low level
> people
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 00:01:48 -0400
Subject: Engine bay colors
Does anyone know a close match to a few paint colors in the engine bay of a
BJ8? I am attempting to repaint the radiator fan shroud the correct red
color (mine is currently black) and the Tudor washer bottle bracket the
correct blue (also currently black).Also, is there a nice chassis black
color out there to redo the Girling brake can and it's bracket. I think
this originally was semi-gloss. Thanks much......
Scot Paulson
Ice blue 1966 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 07:29:20 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 tonneau cover installation
Thanks to all who answered my tonneau question....I get it now!! My
compliments for understanding what I was talking about. Some people just
wrote back and said "huh?". Which I suspect I'd have done also. As the
earlier (pre BJ7) cars tonneau is quite different, I think that's why it
made no sense to some.
Thanks again!
Dave
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "David Masucci"
<david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2001 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 tonneau cover installation
> David: I, too, have recently received my new tonneau from Heritage and it
> looks great. My situation is that I have to cut into it and install
zippers
> to go around my roll bar. Ouch! I'll get up the nerve one of these days.
>
> To answer your question, however, the front flap uses the brass grommets
> that came in the fasteners kit. The rear flap uses the Tenax fasteners.
> When fastening the tonneau to the car, the front flap goes on first with
the
> grommets going over the stud behind the door and up against the body of
the
> car. The rear flap then overlaps the front flap and is secured with the
> Tenax.
>
> You seem to know where all the other fasteners go but I will mention that
a
> couple of people in the past did not know that the larger of the flaps on
> top of the tonneau were designed to be snapped to studs on the bulkhead
> behind the seats to hold the tonneau down when it was not covering the
whole
> cockpit.. I have also been asked what the two holes under the smaller
flaps
> were for and I explained that the over the shoulder portion of my three
> point seat belt went through them. However, sometimes I question whether
> that is their actual purpose because unless the seat belt is a single
strap
> on the 'outside' position of the driver and/or passenger, it will not
work.
> My seat belts have the single strap fastened to the tunnel so, again, I
need
> the cut and zipper to use these holes. The belt does not fit over my
> shoulder properly if I try to bypass them and come up alongside the
tonneau.
>
> Len.
> 1967 3000 MkIII BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Masucci" <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2001 7:31 PM
> Subject: BJ8 tonneau cover installation
>
>
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I have received my Heritage tonneau...it looks really nice. I can easily
> > determine the location of all the various snaps and fasteners with the
> > exception of one on each side. There are basically two flaps that I
think
> > need a fastener...these seem to locate on the stud just to the rear of
the
> > doors. One flap is on the rear part of the cover, the other flap is on
the
> > front portion. Does anyone know what I'm talking about?? If you do...do
I
> > mount the fastener to both flaps at the same time, or just the
inner...or
> > what? Do I overlap the flaps and put the fastener through both? Help!
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dave
> >
> > BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell at talk21.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 12:37:51 +0100
Subject: rear springs
Hi Healeyists,
I am re-fitting my rear springs (BJ7) and cannot remember if the anchor pin at
the front should be fitted with the nut nearest the centre of the car or to
the outside. The workshop manual says that when removing the spring "At the
forward end detach the anchor pin by removing the nut and washer from the
inside position." However a friends BT7 has the nuts on the outside. Any
suggestions, and does it matter which way round?
Regards
Pete Lovewell
(BJ& & Sprite Mk.1)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 11:26:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Baffled By Electrics
To start someone has installed the coil backwards.
If you have a negative ground car the coil should have the negative side
to the W/B wire of the coil. If you have a old original style coil then you
should install a new coil because if you install a old style positive ground
style coil up negative ground you will loose approximatly 20% of the coils
efficency.
Next if you are getting no voltage to the distributor side of the coil
then ther are only a few things that can be the problem. First the points are
not opening or the insulating washer under the points is missing thus
grounding the contacts all the time.
Second the white/black wire going to the back of the car is shorted to ground
under the car, in the trunk or at the battery switch.
To test if it is the wiring is faulty disconnect the w/b wire at
theharness below the fuse block where it connects to go under the car and try
again.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 13:04:42 -0600
Subject: Fw: A very good article
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
Subject: A very good article
> A nice piece by Ian McEwan, the novelist, published in
> The Guardian newspaper this Saturday.
> --------------------------------------
> Ian McEwan
>
> Emotions have their narrative; after the shock we move
>
> inevitably to the grief, and the sense that we are
> doing it more or less together is one tiny scrap of
> consolation.
>
> Initially, the visual impact of the scenes - those
> towers collapsing with malign majesty - extended our
> state of fevered astonishment. Even on Wednesday,
> fresh video footage froze us in this stupefied
> condition, and denied us our profounder feelings: the
> first plane disappearing into the side of the tower as
> cleanly as a posted letter; the couple jumping into
> the void, hand in hand; a solitary figure falling with
> a strangely extended arm (was it an umbrella serving
> as a hopeful parachute?); the rescue workers crawling
> about at the foot of a vast mountain of rubble.
>
> In our delirium, most of us wanted to talk. We
> babbled, by email, on the phone, around kitchen
> tables. We knew there was a greater reckoning ahead,
> but we could not quite feel it yet. Sheer amazement
> kept getting in the way.
>
> The reckoning, of course, was with the personal. By
> Thursday I noticed among friends, and in TV and radio
> commentaries, a new mood of exhaustion and despair.
> People spoke of being depressed. No other public event
> had cut so deeply. The spectacle was over. Now we were
> hearing from the bereaved.
>
> Each individual death is an explosion in itself,
> wrecking the lives of those nearest. We were beginning
> to grasp the human cost. This was what it was always
> really about.
>
> The silent relatives grouped around the entrances to
> hospitals or wandering the streets with their
> photographs was a terrible sight. It reminded us
> of other tragedies, of wars and natural disasters
> around the world. But Manhattan is one of the most
> sophisticated cities in the world, and there were some
> uniquely modern elements to this nightmare that bound
> us closer to it.
>
> The mobile phone has inserted itself into every
> crevice of our daily lives. Now, in catastrophe, if
> there is time enough, it is there in our dying
> moments. All through Thursday we heard from the
> bereaved how they took those last calls. Whatever the
> immediate circumstances, what was striking was what
> they had in common. A new technology has shown us an
> ancient, human universal.
>
> A San Francisco husband slept through his wife's call
> from the World Trade Centre. The tower was burning
> around her, and she was speaking on her mobile phone.
> She left her last message to him on the answering
> machine. A TV station played it to us, while it showed
> the husband standing there listening. Somehow, he was
> able to bear hearing it again. We heard her tell
> him through her sobbing that there was no escape for
> her.
>
> The building was on fire and there was no way down the
> stairs. She was calling to say goodbye. There was
> really only one thing for her to say, those three
> words that all the terrible art, the worst pop songs
> and movies, the most seductive lies, can somehow never
> cheapen. I love you.
>
> She said it over and again before the line went dead.
> And that is what they were all saying down their
> phones, from the hijacked planes and the burning
> towers. There is only love, and then oblivion. Love
> was all they had to set against the hatred of their
> murderers.
>
> Last words placed in the public domain were once the
> prerogative of the mighty and venerable - Henry James,
> Nelson, Goethe - recorded, and perhaps sometimes
> edited for posterity, by relatives at the bedside. The
> effect was often consolatory, showing acceptance, or
> even transcendence in the face of death. They set us
> an example. But these last words spoken down mobile
> phones, reported to us by the bereaved, are both more
> haunting and true.
>
> They compel us to imagine ourselves into that moment.
> What would we say? Now we know.
>
> Most of us have had no active role to play in these
> terrible events. We simply watch the television, read
> the papers, turn on the radio again. Listening to the
> analysts and pundits is soothing to some extent.
> Expertise is reassuring. And the derided profession of
>
> journalism can rise quite nobly, and with immense
> resource, to public tragedy.
>
> However, I suspect that in between times, when we are
> not consuming news, the majority of us are not
> meditating on recent foreign policy failures, or
> geopolitical strategy, or the operational range of
> helicopter gunships.
>
> Instead, we remember what we have seen, and we
> daydream helplessly. Lately, most of us have inhabited
> the space between the terrible actuality and these
> daydreams. Waking before dawn, going about our
> business during the day, we fantasize ourselves into
> the events. What if it was me?
>
> This is the nature of empathy, to think oneself into
> the minds of others. These are the mechanics of
> compassion: you are under the bedclothes, unable to
> sleep, and you are crouching in the brushed-steel
> lavatory at the rear of the plane, whispering a final
> message to your loved one. There is only that one
> thing to say, and you say it. All else is pointless.
> You have very little time before some holy fool,
> who believes in his place in eternity,kicks in the
> door, slaps your head and orders you back to your
> seat. 23C. Here is your seat belt. There is the
> magazine you were reading before it all began.
>
> The banality of these details might overwhelm you. If
> you are not already panicking, you are clinging to a
> shred of hope that the captain, who spoke with such
> authority as the plane pushed back from the stand,
> will rise from the floor, his throat uncut, to take
> the controls...
>
> If the hijackers had been able to imagine themselves
> into the thoughts and feelings of the passengers, they
> would have been unable to proceed. It is hard to be
> cruel once you permit yourself to enter the mind of
> your victim. Imagining what it is like to be someone
> other than yourself is at the core of our humanity. It
> is the essence of compassion, and it is the beginning
> of morality.
>
> The hijackers used fanatical certainty, misplaced
> religious faith, and dehumanizing hatred to purge
> themselves of the human instinct for empathy. Among
> their crimes was a failure of the imagination. As for
> their victims in the planes and in the towers, in
> their terror they would not have felt it at the time,
> but those snatched and anguished assertions of love
> were their defiance.
>
> ) Ian McEwan, 2001
>
>
> =====
> Quote for the month: by Robert F. Kennedy: University of Cape Town
Speech, South Africa, June 6, 1966.
>
> Each time a person stands up for an idea, or acts to improve the lot of
others, or strikes out against injustice, (s)he send forth a tiny ripple of
hope, and crossing each other from a million different centers of energy and
daring, those ripples build a current that can sweep down the mightiest
walls of oppression and resistance.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
> Donate cash, emergency relief information
> http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 16:15:50 -0400
Subject: Re: British Car Day 2001-Bronte, Ontario
Hi all,
To add to Scott Morris' report on the Bronte show, I think it's fitting to
note in our Healey chapter's 25th anniversary year, that there were a couple
of people and cars in attendance who date from awaaay back in our club's
roster.
Gwen and Mirek Sharp, from the Kitchener area brought out their mostly
unrestored 1960 BT7. This couple dates from almost the earliest days in out
club. I recall their "tidying" the car up back in the late 1970's so it
could be enjoyed on the road once more. They attended a number of our events
back then including the first Conclave we hosted at the Inn on the Park in
Toronto in 1980.
While strolling down the line of Healeys, I immediately recognized the 1962
tricarb BT7 which formerly belonged to the late Perry Detlor. Perry was a
very active member through the 1980's and early 1990's. His unrestored, low
mileage, very original car came out to a lot of events including
accompanying Lyn and me on the "maiden " run of our 1954 BN1 as we drove to
the Conclave / Encounter in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania in 1987.
It' nice to see the car is now in the good hands of Bob Guenther, who was a
club member back in the 1976, 1977.
Ever present in spite of the recent events stateside, it was great to see
Rick Magro, and Howard Koch from Western New York.
I think the nicest aspect of a show like Bronte is to be able to congregate
great cars with great friends, and enjoy a leisurely "no brainer" sort of
day.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SSSSeanss at aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 16:29:56 EDT
Subject: Trafficator part
Hi,
I'm in search of a small part that is broken inside the trafficator of a 62
BT7. The culprit is a piece of black plastic about an inch round with an
extension on it that the turn switch is attached to. The rest of works revolve
around the rounded part. It's item 25 and 40 in Bentleys IPB for the
trafficator.
The extension that the switch attaches to is the part that broke. The best 2
part epoxy I've tried hasn't held up.
here's hoping,
thanks,
Sean Sexton
62 BT7 Tricarb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 16:31:11 -0400
Subject: Re: rear springs
Peter wrote:
I am re-fitting my rear springs (BJ7) and cannot remember if the anchor pin
at
> the front should be fitted with the nut nearest the centre of the car or
to
> the outside. The workshop manual says that when removing the spring "At
the
> forward end detach the anchor pin by removing the nut and washer from the
> inside position." However a friends BT7 has the nuts on the outside. Any
> suggestions, and does it matter which way round?
Yes, it matters. But it's pretty simple. Look at the spring mount plate and
you will notice on the outboard side a small tab of metal along side the
bolt hole. This tab locks the flat side of the domed bolt head so it can't
rotate. I've just checked a BN1 and a BN2 and these both have the tab
(therefore the domed bolt head) on the outside with the nut and lockwasher
inboard.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 16:54:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Carfax Report
Fred, That's a right nice thing you're do'in there. Great Idea!!!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 22:12:32 +0100
Subject: RE: Suspect coil & Condenser
Alex,
Many thanks for this. However, you've got me puzzled and a leetle
worried...
you see I'm running my Petronix LU-165P12 without a condenser,
which I thought was the only way.
1) I've checked my drawer full of electrical bits and there's the
condenser in a bag with the old points etc.
2) I've checked the Distributor-no condenser.
3) I've checked the instructions. Stage 4. "Remove point wire
from the coil terminal. Remove points and condenser".
4) Nowhere does it mention replacement of condenser and these
instructions are pretty good as instructions go.
Maybe I've missed something or your friends had a different
setup...mind you, I thought half the point of these things was to
do away with potentially weak links such as condensers etc.
Any ideas?
Simon.
-----Original Message-----
From: ZManDino@aol.com [mailto:ZManDino@aol.com]
Sent: 17 September 2001 01:34
To: simon.lachlan@virgin.net
Subject: Re: Suspect coil
Simon
Suspect the condenser. I just returned from a 48 day tour of
Europe with 13
other Healeys and their fun loving people. One of the owners who
was using
Petronix had the same problem and had to replace 3 condensers
before he
finished the trip. Obviously something else is causing the
problem and that
may be difficult to find, but I would keep a spare condenser on
hand until
you do. I'm a purist and don't believe electronic devices belong
on a '60s
Healey, but good luck anyway.
Alex. Mk1 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 17:32:31 EDT
Subject: radio
Have broken Motorola radio in my BJ8. Can it be repaired or should I look for
a new replacement to fit in existing space? Suggestions appreciated.
Bill in Annapolis
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 14:50:12 -0700
Subject: RE: Suspect coil & Condenser
There shouldn't be any condenser when using a Pertronix, it replaces the
points and condenser with a Hall-effect switch.
Maybe Alex is referring to the noise suppressor condensers on the generator?
----------------
At 02:12 PM 9/17/2001, you wrote:
>Alex,
>Many thanks for this. However, you've got me puzzled and a leetle
>worried...
>you see I'm running my Petronix LU-165P12 without a condenser,
>which I thought was the only way.
>1) I've checked my drawer full of electrical bits and there's the
>condenser in a bag with the old points etc.
>2) I've checked the Distributor-no condenser.
>3) I've checked the instructions. Stage 4. "Remove point wire
>from the coil terminal. Remove points and condenser".
>4) Nowhere does it mention replacement of condenser and these
>instructions are pretty good as instructions go.
>Maybe I've missed something or your friends had a different
>setup...mind you, I thought half the point of these things was to
>do away with potentially weak links such as condensers etc.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Simon.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: ZManDino@aol.com [mailto:ZManDino@aol.com]
>Sent: 17 September 2001 01:34
>To: simon.lachlan@virgin.net
>Subject: Re: Suspect coil
>
>Simon
>
>Suspect the condenser. I just returned from a 48 day tour of
>Europe with 13
>other Healeys and their fun loving people. One of the owners who
>was using
>Petronix had the same problem and had to replace 3 condensers
>before he
>finished the trip. Obviously something else is causing the
>problem and that
>may be difficult to find, but I would keep a spare condenser on
>hand until
>you do. I'm a purist and don't believe electronic devices belong
>on a '60s
>Healey, but good luck anyway.
>
>Alex. Mk1 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 18:36:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Trafficator part
These parts are almost gone completely we have some used parts for the
trafficator switchs and a few of the parts that you are loking for. There are
several styles of this part of the switch I would need more to go on to say
for sure.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 18:38:41 EDT
Subject: Re: radio
Look Hemmings Motor News and there are several places that can restore old
radios.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Nick Zarkades <zdesign at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 19:40:18 +0000
Subject: Lifting BJ8
First I would like to thank all our foriegn
listers for their thoughtful support, God bless.
I need to do some work on the exhaust system
of my BJ8 and I have a very simple question.
My nephew owns a garage that has a lift that
has adjustable arms that are placed under the frame,
my question is this a safe way to lift the car?
Thanks
Nick Zarkades
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 17:46:25 -0600
Subject: Hood latch
In reassembling the hood latch I failed to notice which way the tab on the
slider support assembly Moss (470-655) goes. To the left or right side of
car? Thanks, Sid 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 20:00:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Lifting BJ8
Hi Nick,
We use that type of lift to raise Healeys every day.
Do not lift on the lower sections of the inner sills, they tend to bend
and get damaged by the weight of the car.
Try to position the lift feet under the main frame rails, or the frame
outriggers, preferably with a piece of rubber or soft wood between the
foot and the frame.
You may find that you have difficulty getting the arms under the car
because it is so low. This can be corrected by lifting the car with a
floor jack and putting a 4 x 4 under each tire. (make sure the hand
brake is on to stop the car careening off the blocks of wood.)
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rick Naylor" <rick_naylor at lycos.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 20:03:06 -0400
Subject: Austin-Healey Paint Colors Book
I've noticed that pretty frequently people on this list ask about paint codes.
There is a book that covers that subject very well. It was produced by a guy
named Don Pikovnik (sp?) a year or two ago, and "britcarsource" auctions copies
occasionally on ebay. There is one offered at auction right now at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595376582&r=0&t=0
They must have multiple copies available since they auction another one every
couple of months. You could bid on the one currently offered, or email them to
ask if they'll just sell you one. Beats posting questions on the list every
time you want to know the paint code for such-and-such a color.
Rick
Make a difference, help support the relief efforts in the U.S.
http://clubs.lycos.com/live/events/september11.asp
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 20:19:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Hood latch
Hi, Sid -
It goes toward the left side of the car (left, as you sit in the driver's
seat).
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2001 7:46 PM
Subject: Hood latch
>
> In reassembling the hood latch I failed to notice which way the tab on the
> slider support assembly Moss (470-655) goes. To the left or right side of
> car? Thanks, Sid 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 20:20:51 -0400
Subject: Fw: Lifting BJ8
Hi, Nick -
It is safe enough to lift the car all at once with four adjustable
arms. That should spread out the load on the frame enough to avoid any
bending damage to it. Most lifting damage to the frame is done when folks
try to jack it up at one point with a floor jack, scissors jack, etc. and
the frame thickness is not sufficient to support all the weight in one
concentrated spot. If there is any question, you could use pieces of 2 x 4
between the lifting arms and the frame to spread the load out even further.
That is what I do when I use a scissors jack to jack my BJ8.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nick Zarkades" <zdesign@mediaone.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 17, 2001 3:40 PM
> Subject: Lifting BJ8
>
>
> >
> > First I would like to thank all our foriegn
> > listers for their thoughtful support, God bless.
> >
> > I need to do some work on the exhaust system
> > of my BJ8 and I have a very simple question.
> >
> > My nephew owns a garage that has a lift that
> > has adjustable arms that are placed under the frame,
> > my question is this a safe way to lift the car?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Nick Zarkades
> > 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 19:21:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey Paint Colors Book
<<It was produced by a guy named Don Pikovnik ...>>
And it can be purchased directly from him. Info not handy, check archives.
Might try EditorGary@aol.com , Gary Anderson of British Car Mag.
Ed (owner of a copy)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 21:14:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey Paint Colors Book
Ed,
What is the title of the book?
Thanks,
Dave Duffey
'59 BT 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 18:52:36 -0700
Subject: Fw: Color
From: David Neale
To: Austin Healey
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2001 7:54 PM
Subject: Re: Color
Thanks to everyone for responding with advise on BRG. I have discovered that
there are many shades to choose from. I am still investigating. I found that
GN25 recommended is very light with a lot of yellow. I will hedge towards a
darker green of choice. Thanks again to everyone.
David Neale
BN7
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Bridger" <RBridger01 at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 22:25:23 -0400
Subject: Rear Springs
Peter,
The chassis bracket for the rear spring has a small plate welded to the face
of the bracket which has a flat side facing the bolt hole. The bolt head has a
corresponding flat spot that mates up to keep the bolt from turning when
tightening the nut. This plate is to the inside of the car which put the nut
to the outside. As an aside, if you are having trouble removing the bolts in
the springs or front suspension, cut off the head of the bolt and remove the
nut. Stack several oversize washers on the bolt and replace the nut. Tighten
the nut until you run out of thread, then add more washers until you extract
the bolt.
Bob
BJ 7 & 8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 23:16:21 -0400
Subject: Southeastern Healey Classic
Hello, Healeyphiles -
I just returned from the Southeastern Healey Classic, sponsored by the
Middle Tennessee Austin-Healey Club and held in the beautiful Tennessee
countryside around Tullahoma. Had a chance to meet some of our listers,
finally: Jim Werner from Kentucky, Don Lenschow from Texas, and Bob Yule
from Ontario, to name a few, which was a treat. I participated in my first
rally (with a volunteer navigator, Ed Owens from Nashville) and we did
pretty well, I think. It was the first car show I had ever participated in
that was 102 miles away from the host hotel (at the end of the rally). Car
cleanliness did not seem to be a requirement for the show!
There are lots of interesting things in the area, the Jack Daniels
distillery (in a dry county!) and the Beech aircraft Staggerwing Museum for
example. The Gymkhana and Funkhana were held at the little rural airport
next to the Staggerwing Museum, which had very beautiful grounds and lots of
beautiful Staggerwing and Twin Beech aircraft.
After returning to the hotel from the rally, I noticed some pretty obvious
wear on the outer edges of my front tires. I can confirm that the cause of
this is excessive toe-IN, since Carl at Highland Tire in Tullahoma said I
had an inch of toe-in and re-set it for me to 1/16 - 1/8 on his super-duper
optical equipment for which my BJ8 was not too low to fit on the rack.
Hmm... I had wondered why I was plowing up the asphalt! I can put it down
to changing tie-rod ends and being in too much of a hurry to get on the
road.
I left there at 3:00 am for the 600 + mile ride home through the mountains
of eastern TN and western NC down to the Carolina coast, and by the time I
arrived my butt had become one with TARHEELY's seat and I think I achieved
Nirvana. Just totaled up the mileage on my BJ8 since August 16th, and it
comes to 4,116 miles; not bad for a month's effort. Other than the
mis-alignment, no problems . Wasn't it Ed Kaler who said these cars are
unreliable? (Heh, Heh). No, I guess it wasn't.
Congratulations to the Middle Tennessee A-H Club for putting on a great
event!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USa
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bob & bev hatcher" <bandbhatcher at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:48:58 +1000
Subject: Austin Healey Piant Colors
The book can be obtained new from Don Pikovnik at $US24.95 plus postage, a
better deal than Ebay which is trying to start off at $US29.00
Have a look at http://www.coloramic.com/britcars.htm for more information.
Bob Hatcher
BN1 (Australia)
(Also an owner of the book)
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 07:45:29 -0400
Subject: Fw: 1954 Austin Healy; 100-4
Hello, Healeyphiles -
With the info given below, does any 100-type person recognize the car? I have
referred Bob to the keeper of the 100 Registry, but perhaps one of you could
also help. If so, contact Bob directly.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: CUB1946J3@aol.com
To: byers@cconnect.net
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2001 11:47 PM
Subject: 1954 Austin Healy; 100-4
Steve,
I got your address from a Healy owner at a car show in Northern New Jersey.
He thought that you might be able to tract down a vehicle which I owned back
in the 50's. Unfortunately, I have limited information to go on. I sold my
1951 Mercury to buy this 1954 Austin Healy, 100-4 in 1957 or 58. It was
registered in Somerville, New Jersey in either my name, Robert L. Simon or my
father's name, Louis G. Simon. I had it for a short few years and thoroughly
enjoyed it. It was previously owned by a service man who had it in England.
It was not right-hand drive and was colored black. At that time, I had paid
$1250. for it. I would be interested to know if it is still on the road or if
it has gone to Healy Heaven.
Thanks,
Bob Simon
cub1946j3@aol.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 06:24:46 -0700
Subject: Various questions
Healey World,
I am still working towards the goal of hearing my Bj8 roar and had some late
in the game questions:
1). I have a new battery but have not installed it yet as my dash gauges are
not yet completely wired. I have a new neg. ground harness, coil, fuel pump
etc. Does one simple connect the hot (positive) term side of the battery
and touch the "F" post on the back of the generator to repolarize (with
spade leads disconnected)? Still confused.
2). My trunk lid does not close down all the way. Having installed a new
rubber seal (on the trunk lid not the shroud right?) the lid will not latch
even if I sit on it! I have tried to adjust the latch every which way but,
no luck. Any thoughts? Even more confused than ever.
3). The throttle linkage does not seem to stay in place between the carbs.
There is a slot that appears to fit the mechanism nicely but then does not
stay attached when moved back and forth ( this seems like a dumb question).
Am I mossing a part or something? Pun intended! Not even a clue on this
one.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
dp
BJ8 now chomping at the bit...
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 09:26:07 EDT
Subject: oily tach head
The seal at the bottom end of my tachometer drive cable wore out and allowed
some oil to come up the cable and drip out of the bottom of the tachometer.
I have replaced the seal but the tach still reacts rather sluggishly, to say
the least. Is there anything that I can do to clean it up or must this go to
one of the instrument shops?
Michael Oritt
BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 07:30:03 -0800
Subject: Radio Question
Hello Gents - I have an old Radiomobile AM radio in my BN6. I'd like to tune in
some appropriate oldies once in a while, but all I can get on the AM band is
talk shows. I've heard that it is possible to do an FM conversion to an old car
radio. Anyone heard of this or know who does it? Thanks - John C
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From GMari58175 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 11:02:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Radio Question
John & List,
I purchased my Radiomobile radio from Wilford Wilkes in Brisbin Pa. about 5
years ago. Can't find his phone number but he only deals in foreign radios
and their repair.
hope it helps.
george marinos
> Hello Gents - I have an old Radiomobile AM radio in my BN6. I'd like to tune
> in
> some appropriate oldies once in a while, but all I can get on the AM band is
> talk shows. I've heard that it is possible to do an FM conversion to an old
> car
> radio. Anyone heard of this or know who does it? Thanks - John C
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 12:03:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey Paint Colors Book
In a message dated 9/17/01 5:31:35 PM, justbrits@home.com writes:
<<
And it can be purchased directly from him. Info not handy, check archives.
Might try EditorGary@aol.com , Gary Anderson of British Car Mag.
Ed (owner of a copy) >>
Don Pikovnik can be reached at DONP@ncweb.com. The book was published by
Coloramic Process, 2883 Industrial Park Drive, Austinburg, Ohio 44010.
I don't know if he still has copies or not, but it would be worth emailing
him to ask.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 12:07:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Southeastern Healey Classic
Hope someone took some nice pictures (snapshot prints or high-res digital) of
the Southeastern Classic and will send them along with a few paragraphs about
the meet to us at British Car Magazine so we can publish them to let the rest
of the movement can see how Healey owners enjoy themselves.
Gary Anderson,Editor
British Car Magazine
343 Second Street
Suite H
Los Altos, CA 94022
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 12:15:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Radio Question
In a message dated 9/18/01 8:05:33 AM, GMari58175@aol.com writes:
<< John & List,
I purchased my Radiomobile radio from Wilford Wilkes in Brisbin Pa. about 5
years ago. Can't find his phone number but he only deals in foreign radios
and their repair.
hope it helps.
george marinos >>
Several firms offer conversions of one sort or another to allow FM/stereo/CD
playing while maintaining the original AM appearance. (course, I can't figure
out how you can hear anything when the Healey exhaust is on song -- I have to
use earphones when I listen to music while driving my Healey, in which case
you might as well just carry a Walkman and not mess with the original radio).
Check the Hemmings ads for radio conversions.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 13:25:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Southeastern Healey Classic
In a message dated 9/18/01 11:11:21 AM Central Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< Hope someone took some nice pictures (snapshot prints or high-res digital)
of
the Southeastern Classic and will send them along with a few paragraphs
about
the meet to us at British Car Magazine so we can publish them to let the
rest
of the movement can see how Healey owners enjoy themselves. >>
To all that didn't make this great meet I will be making a page that will
appear on the NTAHC web site <www.ntahc.org>. Let you all know when it is
done.
Back home recuperating!
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dyaarl anderson <dyaarl at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 15:19:16 -0400
Subject: need address
Lost all info on computer due to lighting strike, I need Jim Warners
web address.
Thanks Dyaarl
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 19:15:04 EDT
Subject: Re: radio
I had my Motorola BJ8 radio fixed at "Elliot's Car Radio Repair" at 313
Linfield Rd. Parkerford, Pa. 19457 and phone number (610) 495-6360 or on the
web at : elliotradio@aol.com. He was Quick to fix and return. I think the
fee was $75.00 or somewhere around there. Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RanBullard at Clearchannel.com
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 19:54:41 -0400
Subject: FW: A very good article
I'll try to find the origin of this piece, but read it in the meantime.
Ran
*****
Some perspective by Afghani-American writer Tamim Ansary:
I've been hearing a lot of talk about "bombing Afghanistan back to the
Stone Age." Ronn Owens, on KGO Talk Radio today, allowed that this would
mean
killing innocent people, people who had nothing to do with this
atrocity, but
"we're at war, we have to accept collateral damage. What else can we
do?"
Minutes later I heard some TV pundit discussing whether we "have the
belly to
do what must be done."
And I thought about the issues being raised especially hard because I
am
from Afghanistan, and even though I've lived here for 35 years I've
never
lost track of what's going on there. So I want to tell anyone who will
listen
how it all looks from where I'm standing.
I speak as one who hates the Taliban and Osama Bin Laden. There is no
doubt in my mind that these people were responsible for the atrocity in
New
York. I agree that something must be done about those monsters.
But the Taliban and Ben Laden are not Afghanistan. They're not even
the
government of Afghanistan. The Taliban are a cult of ignorant psychotics
who
took over Afghanistan in 1997. Bin Laden is a political criminal with a
plan.
When you think Taliban, think Nazis. When you think Bin Laden, think
Hitler.
And when you think "the people of Afghanistan" think "the Jews in the
concentration camps." It's not only that the Afghan people had nothing
to do with this atrocity. They were
the first victims of the perpetrators. They would exult if someone would
come
in there, take out the Taliban and clear out the rats nest of
international
thugs holed up in their country.
Some say, why don't the Afghans rise up and overthrow the Taliban? The
answer is, they're starved, exhausted, hurt, incapacitated, suffering. A
few
years ago, the United Nations estimated that there are 500,000 disabled
orphans in Afghanistan--a country with no economy, no food. There are
millions of widows. And the Taliban has been burying these widows alive
in
mass graves. The soil is littered with land mines, the farms were all
destroyed by the Soviets. These are a few of the reasons why the Afghan
people have not overthrown the Taliban.
We come now to the question of bombing Afghanistan back to the Stone
Age.
Trouble is, that's been done. The Soviets took care of it already. Make
the
Afghans suffer? They're already suffering. Level their houses? Done.
Turn
their schools into piles of rubble? Done. Eradicate their hospitals?
Done.
Destroy their infrastructure? Cut them off from medicine and health
care? Too
late. Someone already did all that.
New bombs would only stir the rubble of earlier bombs. Would they at
least
get the Taliban? Not likely. In today's Afghanistan, only the Taliban
eat,
only they have the means to move around. They'd slip away and hide.
Maybe the
bombs would get some of those disabled orphans, they don't move too
fast,
they don't even have wheelchairs. But flying over Kabul and dropping
bombs
wouldn't really be a strike against the criminals who did this horrific
thing. Actually it would only be making
common cause with the Taliban--by raping once again the people they've
been
raping all this time
So what else is there? What can be done, then? Let me now speak with
true
fear and trembling. The only way to get Bin Laden is to go in there with
ground troops. When people speak of "having the belly to do what needs
to be
done" they're thinking in terms of having the belly to kill as many as
needed. Having the belly to overcome any moral qualms about killing
innocent
people. Let's pull our heads out of the sand. What's actually on the
table is
Americans dying. And not just because some Americans would die fighting
their way through Afghanistan to Bin
Laden's
hideout. It's much bigger than that folks. Because to get any troops to
Afghanistan, we'd have to go through Pakistan. Would they let us? Not
likely.
The conquest of Pakistan would have to be first. Will other Muslim
nations
just stand by? You see where I'm going. We're flirting with a world war
between Islam and the West.
And guess what: that's Bin Laden's program. That's exactly what he
wants.
That's why he did this. Read his speeches and statements. It's all right
there. He really believes Islam would beat the west. It might seem
ridiculous, but he figures if he can polarize the world into Islam and
the
West, he's got a billion soldiers. If the west wreaks a holocaust in
those
lands, that's a billion people with nothing left to lose, that's even
better
from Bin Laden's point of view. He's probably wrong, in the end the west
would win, whatever that would mean, but the war would last for years
and
millions would die, not just theirs but ours. Who has the belly for
that? Bin
Laden does. Anyone else?
--Tamim Ansary
*****
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ZManDino at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 20:34:49 EDT
Subject: Please light a candle again
10:30 EASTERN TIME.... 9:30 Central, 8:30 Mountain, 7:30 Pacific
The U.S. has asked that everyone step out on their lawns tonight at 10:30
and light a candle. They will be taking a satellite picture of the U.S. and
posting it on the news tomorrow
morning. Please pass this on to as many people as possible.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 20:45:56 -0400
Subject: Re:BJ8 Top Frame
Hi,
A friend has a complete top frame, with top (not sure of top condition)
for a BJ8. If anyone is interested please contact me off the list.
Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 19:35:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Various questions
Dwight - to answer your questions one by one:
> 1). Does one simple connect the hot (positive)
> term side of the battery
> and touch the "F" post on the back of the generator
> to repolarize (with
> spade leads disconnected)? Still confused.
This should be fine. As long as the generator is
mounted (i.e. connected to ground) & ignition is on,
this will repolarize the gen). Please make sure,
however, that your tachometer is switched to negative
ground. This can be done by you (or may need to be
done by an expert) depending on they type of Tach your
BJ8 has. Talk to david nock british car specialists
for more details. He knows it all about it.
>
> 2). My trunk lid does not close down all the way.
> Having installed a new
> rubber seal (on the trunk lid not the shroud right?)
> the lid will not latch
> even if I sit on it! I have tried to adjust the
> latch every which way but,
> no luck. Any thoughts? Even more confused than
> ever.
The latch is only one part of the adjustment. The
greatest amount of adjustment is actually in the boot
lid striker (mounted to the boot bottom, inside). The
striker has all sorts of adjustment possiblity, and if
it still isn't connecting to the latch, try putting
some washers between the striker and the striker
mounting plate to lift it up a bit. That should do
it.
>
> 3). The throttle linkage does not seem to stay in
> place between the carbs.
> There is a slot that appears to fit the mechanism
> nicely but then does not
> stay attached when moved back and forth ( this seems
> like a dumb question).
> Am I mossing a part or something? Pun intended!
> Not even a clue on this
> one.
You should have two "lost motion levers" - one for
each carb (moss part #372-850), Item #70 on the HD8
carb page. If you have these mounted on the carb, the
coupling shaft assemply should not fall out. It is a
somewhat loose fit - are your carbs bolted down yet or
still sitting loose? - if they are sitting loose the
shaft will likely fall out. If they are bolted down
and it's still falling out, then your shaft may be cut
too short or the lost motion levers installed
incorrectly. Do you have HD8 carbs on the car? if
not, that will be a problem as well. Hard to say w/o
more info.
Remember the WTC!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
FROM: Laura Pumford <L.PUMFORD at VERIZON.NET>
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 21:42:50 -0500 (CDT)
SUBJECT: the accumulation, sharing, and
Has been recognized that a cooperative exchange of information between
government and industry is necessary to reduce or eliminate duplicate
expenditures of time and money by making maximum use of existing knowledge.
Lack of timely notification that a company intends to discontinue the
manufacture of an item may cause unnecessary redesign or life-of-type buys for
logistic support of systems and equipment that the government may use in excess
of thirty years.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
shellurl.exe]
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had
a name of gidep_abstract[2].DOC]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 19:59:35 -0700
Subject: Re: A very good article (non AH content)
The article is from Salon.com.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
>
> I'll try to find the origin of this piece, but read it in the meantime.
>
> Ran
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:43:20 -0400
Subject: Re: need address
Hi, Dyaarl -
Try:
http://members.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
----- Original Message -----
From: "dyaarl anderson" <dyaarl@mediaone.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 3:19 PM
Subject: need address
>
> Lost all info on computer due to lighting strike, I need Jim Warners
> web address.
>
> Thanks Dyaarl
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 13:15:59 +0100
Subject: No Healey content
I was amused by a story contained in an obituary in today's Daily
Telegraph. (UK newspaper).
It was about the wartime exploits of the deceased. (WWII).Whilst
serving in Italy, elements of his Regiment entered Rome after the
German retreat. Much celebrating ensued. Upon emerging from a
bar, he noticed that his Jeep (American manufacture, British army
issue) was missing. He stumbled around looking for it and was
lucky enough to do so. It had been "borrowed" by some equally
tipsy Americans.
"That's my jeep."
GI "No, it's not. And, if it was, how would you know?"
"It's got a hood and no bonnet."
GI "Well it seems to me that its got a bonnet and no hood..."
He had kept the steering wheel, so justice triumphed....
Enough. Apparently this fellow first came to people's attention
for taking the fuse out of a German bomb with the tools from his
bicycle repair kit. Land of the blessed amateur. As he went on to
be ordained after the war, maybe he was being kept back for
greater things!
Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 07:45:41 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Questions
Morning Listers.
My BJ8 is running superbly and is getting some well deserved miles... I do
have a few questions for you all..
1. My front main is leaking after 2000 miles since my engine rebuild...
much to my chagrin.... So I will be replacing it (soon I hope) I am assuming
it possible to do this with the engine in place, disconnecting motor mounts
and throttle linkage, removing radiator and just lifting the engine enough
to have the front pulley clear the frame. Am I correct or is there more?
2. Are different vendors seals superior to others.
3. I replaced the rubber on my vent windows 2 years ago and the rubber has
already cracked and gone to hell. Could anybody give me a line on a good
vendor for these. (Prior purchase was VB).
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 09:50:19 EDT
Subject: oily tach head
In a message dated 9/18/01 9:26:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Awgertoo writes:
> The seal at the bottom end of my tachometer drive cable wore out and allowed
> some oil to come up the cable and drip out of the bottom of the tachometer.
> I have replaced the seal but the tach still reacts rather sluggishly, to
> say the least. Is there anything that I can do to clean it up or must this
> go to one of the instrument shops?
>
> Michael Oritt
Return-path: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
Full-name: Awgertoo
Message-ID: <22.1c02773c.28d8a56f@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 09:26:07 EDT
Subject: oily tach head
To: healeys@autox.team.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10540
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
The seal at the bottom end of my tachometer drive cable wore out and allowed
some oil to come up the cable and drip out of the bottom of the tachometer.
I have replaced the seal but the tach still reacts rather sluggishly, to say
the least. Is there anything that I can do to clean it up or must this go to
one of the instrument shops?
Michael Oritt
BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 08:26:18 -0600
Subject: RE: BJ8 Questions
Hi Jim,
I recall a BJ8 owner telling me that the outer diameter of the boss on the
harmonic balancer (the side towards the seal) can be out of true. If
that's the case with yours, it will quickly destroy the seal.
That owner's solution was to machine the boss and install a sleeve to make
the OD coaxial with the ID. Worth a quick look.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: James Sailer [mailto:sailer@srv.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 6:46 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: BJ8 Questions
>>My front main is leaking after 2000 miles since my engine rebuild...
much to my chagrin.... So I will be replacing it (soon I hope) I am assuming
it possible to do this with the engine in place, disconnecting motor mounts
and throttle linkage, removing radiator and just lifting the engine enough
to have the front pulley clear the frame. Am I correct or is there more?<<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 10:47:23 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Questions
In a message dated 9/19/01 8:47:04 AM Central Daylight Time, sailer@srv.net
writes:
<< My front main is leaking after 2000 miles since my engine rebuild...
much to my chagrin.... >>
Jim,
You may want to look at the tech article on our NTAHC web page
<www.ntahc.org>, Keeping the oil in a Healey. Deals with front seal repair
using a Speedi Seal.
Reassembly is very important, let the seal center the cover before tightening
the bolts.
Good luck,
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 10:55:34 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Questions
Jim: Once you get the pulley off, check the condition of the pulley hub
where it rides in the seal. I have seen them pitted from rust or whatever,
causing leakage.
Good Luck, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Sailer" <sailer@srv.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 9:45 AM
Subject: BJ8 Questions
>
> Morning Listers.
>
> My BJ8 is running superbly and is getting some well deserved miles... I
do
> have a few questions for you all..
>
> 1. My front main is leaking after 2000 miles since my engine rebuild...
> much to my chagrin.... So I will be replacing it (soon I hope) I am
assuming
> it possible to do this with the engine in place, disconnecting motor
mounts
> and throttle linkage, removing radiator and just lifting the engine enough
> to have the front pulley clear the frame. Am I correct or is there more?
>
> 2. Are different vendors seals superior to others.
>
> 3. I replaced the rubber on my vent windows 2 years ago and the rubber has
> already cracked and gone to hell. Could anybody give me a line on a good
> vendor for these. (Prior purchase was VB).
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
>
> 66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Doug Ingram" <dougi at home.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 08:20:53 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 Questions
Jim:
For rubber bits, I highly recommend Marty Macgregor of Macgregor British Car
Parts in Dundas Ontario, Canada. Best quality, best fit. As you experienced,
the usual suspects will supply you with crap.
Marty can be contacted at 1-877-777-6381 or
http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com
No affiliation, no interest, but a very satisfied customer.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
1958 Sprite (AN5L/636)
1963 Sprite Mk II project (HAN7L/30003)
1987 Jaguar XJ6 VDP
and looking for just the right BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 6:45 AM
Subject: BJ8 Questions
> 3. I replaced the rubber on my vent windows 2 years ago and the rubber has
> already cracked and gone to hell. Could anybody give me a line on a good
> vendor for these. (Prior purchase was VB).
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
>
> 66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Biloselhir at aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 12:05:51 EDT
Subject: 59 BN4
Have removed the fenders from car moving towards total restoration. Patch
panels had been used, and they had rusted. Discovered that all 4 fenders are
aluminum.
What should I do? This car had an amateur restoration done in early 70's
(when the ferrous fender repair panels were used), then sat in a garage for
28 years until I bought it.
Are repair panels available in aluminum?
Bill 59BN4
biloselhir@aol.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 10:59:41 -0500
Subject: New - NO LBC
New items for ALL
www.justbrits.com/neverfor.htm
www.justbrits.com/piss.jpg
The second: Thanks to Adrian Barnes of themidgets list.
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 14:30:00 -0600
Subject: AH's being parted-out
I had a fellow in a parts store in Boise, Idaho tell me heard of a man parting
out a number of Healeys in Baker City, Oregon. Does anyone know of this?
Sid, 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 16:40:31 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Wiper Motor
Hi Listers,
A question, if I may...
I have a fellow's BJ8 here with a wiper motor that runs full time as soon as
the ignition switch is turned on, and the dash switch has no effect. I know
that the motor is fed power full time (green wire), and that the dash switch
is supposed to complete the circuit to ground (black wire and black with green
wire) Obviously in this case the motor is being grounded full time somehow.
I've checked that the motor is mounted in new rubbers, and the wires are all
connected to their correct terminals (1,2, and 3)
Is it possible that the adjustable internal wiper ring which regulates where
in the cable stroke the motor parks might be turned to such a position that
it's still getting full time ground?
I'm clutching at straws here trying to avoid removing the motor from its
awkward location up under the dash.
Thanks
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 17:13:51 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Questions
How do you get him to respond, though?! Every time I've called to see if he
had something, he's told me that he would call back and let me know, and
never has! I finally gave up on him after this occurred 3 or 4 times.
Bob
>
>Jim:
>
>For rubber bits, I highly recommend Marty Macgregor of Macgregor British
Car
>Parts in Dundas Ontario, Canada. Best quality, best fit. As you
experienced,
>the usual suspects will supply you with crap.
>
>Marty can be contacted at 1-877-777-6381 or
>http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com
>
>No affiliation, no interest, but a very satisfied customer.
>
>Doug Ingram
>Victoria BC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 15:45:03 -0600
Subject: RE: BJ8 Wiper Motor
Hi Rich,
Yes, it is highly likely that the park mechanism switch is stuck for some
reason. If that happens, the dash switch will be bypassed internally.
Should not be too difficult to fix, but unfortunately, I think it does
require removal of the motor (and what a pain that R&R task is!).
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler@quickclic.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 1:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 Wiper Motor
Hi Listers,
A question, if I may...
I have a fellow's BJ8 here with a wiper motor that runs full time as soon as
the ignition switch is turned on, and the dash switch has no effect. I know
that the motor is fed power full time (green wire), and that the dash switch
is supposed to complete the circuit to ground (black wire and black with
green
wire) Obviously in this case the motor is being grounded full time somehow.
I've checked that the motor is mounted in new rubbers, and the wires are all
connected to their correct terminals (1,2, and 3)
Is it possible that the adjustable internal wiper ring which regulates where
in the cable stroke the motor parks might be turned to such a position that
it's still getting full time ground?
I'm clutching at straws here trying to avoid removing the motor from its
awkward location up under the dash.
Thanks
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mark J Bradakis <mjb at autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 15:53:46 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: List topics
As one might imagine, the various autox.team.net lists have been heavily
hit with discussions about last week's events. In an effort to direct
some of the non-automotive traffic away from the automotive lists,
I have set up wtc@autox.team.net.
Go to
http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
to check it out. There are also a few other lists there, the vast majority
of team.net lists are under majordomo, not mailman. To see them, go to
http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
mjb.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RanBullard at Clearchannel.com
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 17:47:25 -0400
Subject: FW: With apologies to Dr. Seuss
Subject: With apologies to Dr. Seuss
Author is unknown -- a Dr. Seuss wannabe -- who did a pretty great job on
this one:
~The Binch~
Every U down in Uville liked U.S. a lot,
But the Binch, who lived Far East of Uville, did not.
The Binch hated U.S! the whole U.S. way!
Now don't ask me why, for nobody can say,
It could be his turban was screwed on too tight.
Or the sun from the desert had beaten too bright
But I think that the most likely reason of all
May have been that his heart was two sizes too small.
But, Whatever the reason, his heart or his turban,
He stood facing Uville, the part that was urban.
"They're doing their business," he snarled from his perch.
"They're raising their families! They're going to church!
"They're leading the world, and their empire is thriving,
I MUST keep the S's and U's from surviving!"
Tomorrow, he knew, all the U's and the S's,
Would put on their pants and their shirts and their dresses,
They'd go to their offices, playgrounds and schools,
And abide by their U and S values and rules,
And then they'd do something he liked least of all,
Every U down in U-ville, the tall and the small,
Would stand all united, each U and each S,
And they'd sing Uville's anthem, "God bless us! God bless!"
All around their Twin Towers of Uville, they'd stand,
and their voices would drown every sound in the land.
"I must stop that singing," Binch said with a smirk,
And he had an idea--an idea that might work!
The Binch stole some U airplanes in U morning hours,
And crashed them right into the Uville Twin Towers.
"They'll wake to disaster!" he snickered, so sour,
"And how can they sing when they can't find a tower?"
The Binch cocked his ear as they woke from their sleeping,
All set to enjoy their U-wailing and weeping,
Instead he heard something that started quite low,
And it built up quite slow, but it started to grow--
And the Binch heard the most unpredictable thing...
And he couldn't believe it--they started to sing!
He stared down at U-ville, not trusting his eyes,
What he saw was a shocking, disgusting surprise!
Every U down in U-ville, the tall and the small,
Was singing! Without any towers at all!
He HADN'T stopped U-Ville from singing! It sung!
For down deep in the hearts of the old and the young,
Those Twin Towers were standing, called Hope and called Pride,
And you can't smash the towers we hold deep inside.
So we circle the sites where our heroes did fall,
With a hand in each hand of the tall and the small,
And we mourn for our losses while knowing we'll cope,
For we still have inside that U-Pride and U-Hope.
For America means a bit more than tall towers,
It means more than wealth or political powers,
It's more than our enemies ever could guess,
So may God bless America! Bless us! God bless!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Billy Carlisle <jcarlis at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 21:34:53 -0400
Subject: [Fwd: FW: special children]
So nice,I had to share this with you. Kay
Return-Path: <cboss@deloitte.com>
Received: from wmp2-external.dttus.com ([208.35.153.18]) by
imf17bis.bellsouth.net (InterMail vM.5.01.01.01 201-252-104) with
ESMTP id
<20010919152838.DRNP20381.imf17bis.bellsouth.net@wmp2-external.dttus.c
om> for <jcarlis@bellsouth.net>; Wed, 19 Sep 2001 11:28:38 -0400
Return-Path: <cboss@deloitte.com>
Received: from lax1.dttus.com by wmp2.dttus.com with ESMTP for
jcarlis@bellsouth.net; Wed, 19 Sep 2001 15:27:29 Z
Received: from [10.28.30.180] by lax1.dttus.com with ESMTP; Wed, 19 Sep
2001 10:27:24 -0500
Received: by uswstnt480.us.deloitte.com with Internet Mail Service
(5.5.2653.19) id <THD2S7HM>; Wed, 19 Sep 2001 08:26:43 -0700
Message-Id: <6DEC02106C2FD411BF5100508BCF43C5020C1829@uscntnt413.us.delo
itte.com>
From: "Boss, Connie (US - Hermitage)" <cboss@deloitte.com>
To: "'fcpiii@mindspring.com'" <fcpiii@mindspring.com>,
"'smitchell640@aol.com'" <smitchell640@aol.com>,
"'jcarlis@bellsouth.net'" <jcarlis@bellsouth.net>,
"'claudiamail@earthlink.net'" <claudiamail@earthlink.net>
Subject: FW: special children
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 08:26:34 -0700
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2653.19)
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/mixed by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
Wonderful that our children can see such Blessings in their eyes.
-----Original Message-----
From: Terrell, Stephanie (US - Hermitage)
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 8:03 AM
To: Crutcher, Sonya (US - Hermitage); Murphy, Dawn (US - Hermitage);
Washington, Kanika (US - Hermitage); Hughes, Devon (US - Hermitage);
McClerkin, Malorie Anita (US - Hermitage); 'Cthahotgirl@aol.com'; Boss,
Connie (US - Hermitage); Brown, Jennifer W. (US - Hermitage);
Caldarelli, Ed (US - Hermitage); Chrisman, Patricia (US - Hermitage);
Jaxheimer, Jana (US - Hermitage); Jordan, Deshawn (US - Hermitage);
McCarty, Julie (US - Hermitage); Moody, Tammy (US - Hermitage); Riggs,
Joyce (US - Hermitage); Sanders, Barbara J. (US - Hermitage); Stewart,
Darcey D. (US - Hermitage); Turner, Callen M. (US - Hermitage); Urrutia,
Eileen (US - Hermitage)
Subject: FW: special children
Subject: FW: special children
> >
> > This was drawn by a 10 year old child from Pensylvannia the day
> > after....isn't it wonderful for a child to have life so together that
> he/she
> > is at peace so soon after a tragedy of this magnitude......there is no
> fear
> > and no anger in this picture, just a clear understanding!
> <<healing.gif>>
Please note: This message may contain information which is
privileged and confidential. If you are not the intended recipient,
you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you believe
you have received this message in error, please forward to
postmaster@reemay.com.
This message (including any attachments) contains confidential information
intended for a specific individual and purpose, and is protected by law. If
you are not the intended recipient, you should delete this message and are
hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, or distribution of this
message, or the taking of any action based on it, is strictly prohibited.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
healing.gif]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 20:31:56 -0600
Subject: Battery master switch
In disassembling the master switch the looped material between two of the
posts crumbled. It appears to be a non conducting insulator. What is it and
can I replace it with plastic or rubber?
Sid 65BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 22:53:51 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Wiper Motor
Re the BJ8 wiper motor which won't park or shut off...
Mike Salter wrote:
> I have had a couple of those where the brass contact section of the park
> switch had sort of got smeared onto the insulated part of the breaker
> plate enough to create continuous contact.. A little emery and problem
> gone. I suspected that someone had put a lubricant with some sort of
> conductor in the switch.
> Let me know what you find.
I ended up completely removing the motor from the cable assembly and taking
it to the bench. No amount of cleaning and adjusting would make the thing
behave. Full time running with no park ability. Must be something internal
in the motor assembly itself. I ended up subbing another unit which works
perfectly.
I know...cowards way out.
This will get my friend's car out the door, and I can play with the
defective unit later on my own time. I'll be sure to inform the list when I
eventually sort this thing out.
Thanks to Mike, Roland and Adnan for your replies.
Rich
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 23:04:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Tonneau covers and other things
Don,
I would not say this is necessarily true. The vendors may simply have
patterns to cut and sew material by. They may not know anything of the fit
on a particular car.
Keith Pennell
> This may sound like a rhetorical question, but why do the vendors send out
> these tonneau and top kits without instructions? They MUST know how the
> darned things are suppose to fit and how they are attached to the cars.
Any
> VENDORS out there who can answer that question???
>
> Don
> BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 23:51:59 -0700
Subject: XK 150 wanted
WANTED: LHD XK 150 FHC
We are still looking for a restored, older, gold
level car to be used as a driver.
Restoration should be 1 to 5 years old. Body &
interior should be show quality.
Engine should be a low mileage rebuild.
Would really prefer a west coast car since flying
is not high on our list at the moment.
All referrals appreciated.
Ron Rader & Debi Nichols
Marina del Rey, CA
rader@interworld.net 310.337.7000 ext. 111
Thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 23:58:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Battery master switch
Sid -
On the newer replacement switches, the looped material
is simply a piece of non-conducting cardboard paper.
All it really does is keep the wires from touching or
arcing, that's all. Probably can use whatever
material you see fit.
Remember the WTC!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- bronson <bron@rmci.net> wrote:
>
> In disassembling the master switch the looped
> material between two of the
> posts crumbled. It appears to be a non conducting
> insulator. What is it and
> can I replace it with plastic or rubber?
>
> Sid 65BJ8
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 07:26:05 EDT
Subject: Healey Photo Sharing
I'm looking for a site that provides free photo hosting to share photos from
club events. I tried AOL's You've got photos and it does not work well for
me. To use AOL you have to send invitations to view the pages to members and
they have to respond to that email. That gets too complicated, I need a
service that can just provide a URL link that I can just post on our web
pages.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 07:27:47 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Questions - Thanks
Thanks to all who responded to my questions. Seems like I have quite a few
things to check when I get the timing cover off. Will drive her for the
fall and enjoy what little good weather we have left before the cold sets
in.
jim Sailer 66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 07:01:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BRITISH WINGS & WHEELS 2001 - Santa Monica, CA
BRITISH WINGS & WHEELS 2001
Sunday, September 30th
At The Museum of Flying
Santa Monica, California
Sponsored by:
Moss Motors, The Museum of Flying
and The Southern California MG Club
$25.00 Registration fee includes admission to the Museum.
The British Car exhibition will be on the museum front
parking lot, in the building and on the airport apron.
Due to time and space constraints, cars will not be
grouped by marque but instead displayed in the order
that they arrive. There are plans to offer photographs
of you and your car next to a Spitfire Aircraft. Please
be on site between 8:00AM and 9:30AM for photos and
field placement. We ask that all vehicles please remain
on site until after 4:00PM for spectator safety.
Awards will be given at 3:30PM for unique examples of
the various marques. There will be no concours judging
so daily drivers and works-in-progress are appreciated.
The idea is to have fun and meet other owners.
For further information please call:
Kelvin Dodd
(800)-235-6954 X 3023 or
e-mail: doddk@mossmotors.com
PRE-REGISTRATION is recommended
Name _______________________________
Address _______________________________________
City, State, Zip _______________________________
Telephone _______________________________
e-mail (if avail.) _______________________________
Car Make, Model, Yr _______________________________
Interesting Points _______________________________
_______________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________
Club Affiliations _____________________________________
Make check payable to: The Museum of Flying
Or (circle one) MC VISA DISC AMEX __________________
Exp. _____________
Proceeds to benefit The Museum of Flying
Mail to:
Kelvin Dodd
Moss Motors Ltd.
P.O. Box 847
Goleta, CA 93117
Or Fax to: (805) 692-2520
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 07:06:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY AND PICNIC 2001
SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY AND PICNIC
Sunday, October 7, 2001
Fairbrook Farms, Bonsall, California
San Diego British Car Club Council and Home Town Buffet
bring you the 22nd Annual San Diego British Car Day.
Our event seeks to foster camaraderie among Southern
California British car enthusiasts. This is an "owners'
car show." You will see everyday drivers, concours
quality cars, and "beaters"! Please plan to drive your
British car!
* PREREGISTRATION: $10.00 per car(mail before Sept.15)
* DAY OF SHOW: $15.00 per vehicle
* WALK-IN VISITORS - $2.00 - CHILDREN UNDER 15 - Free
REGISTRATION: 9:00 a.m.
CAR SHOW: 10:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
FOOD: You may bring your own picnic or purchase your
lunch from Home Town Buffet!
VENDORS:Spaces $35 - Contact John Barnard
evenings: 619-659-0253; day 619-461-1885
TROPHIES AND RECOGNITION:
To be considered, please have your car in place by 11AM
Cars: Best Of Show - Popular vote - please see ballot
in your show packet
Best Of Marque - Popular vote - please see ballot
in your show packet
Long Distance - Vehicle driven (not towed) longest
distance specifically for this event
Best "Beater" - The car most in need of restoration,
must be running!
Also: Best Club Presentation
Best Classic Picnic (Judging: 11:30 to Noon)
"British Spirit Awards"
PLEASE NOTE: Quantity of trophies & awards based
upon number of cars PRE-REGISTERED!
PICK UP YOUR SOUVENIR PIN AT THE SHOW!
QUESTIONS? Please pick an area code and call us:
(760) 746-9028 Steve
(858) 566-6619 Maggie
(909) 693-9094 Joe
(619) 575-5625 Paul
Voting and Awards Details will be in your packet on Oct 7th.
DIRECTIONS: Fairbrook Farms is located on Mission Road near
State Highway 76, which connects with Interstate 5 and I15.
FROM I-5: At Oceanside, go East on Highway 76 (Mission Ave-
nue) about 12 miles. Turn Left on Mission Road at
the traffic light. The site is 1/4 mile on the Left.
FROM I-15: Thirteen (13) miles north of Escondido or 11
miles south of Temecula, go West on Highway 76 (Pala
Road) 4 1/2 miles. Turn Right on Mission Road at the
traffic light. The site is 1/4 mile on the Left.
PRE-REGISTRATION FORM AT: www.sandiegobritishcarday.org
MAIL BEFORE SEPT. 15th to:
San Diego British Car Club Council
P. O. Box 710131
San Diego CA 92171-0131
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 13:52:22 EDT
Subject: Triplex logo...
This is a sales offer, please delete if not interested and pardon my bombing
the list.
Over the past few months Roger Moment and I have been trying to reproduce the
Triplex logo for authenticity to apply to new windscreens to go that extra
step for concours.
To this end we started on the task of recreating the Triplex logo as it
appears on the windscreen of my 1955 Austin Healey Hundred which was built 18
February 1955. I offer this build date as apparently the Triplex logo has
small dots placed with in it so one can tell when the windscreen was
manufactured. I had the logo recreated by an artist using my windscreen as
the pattern. This was then produced as a blow up and an original sized black
and white pattern. Then burned to a CD-ROM disc. The different methods we
have tried include 1) using a specialized high-speed hand-engraving machine.
Much to difficult and time consuming. 2) Having a rubber stamp made and
using a glass etching gel, which only produced fair results, then considered
using glass-etching acid. After talking with two separate glass artists we
came up with the final method 3) Having a mask created that can be applied
to the windscreen and sandblasting the image into the glass. The third
method has provided fantastic results. Of course any existing logo must be
removed, then the new logo can be applied.
There are a few of the masks left. I am offering a set (2) of the masks
including a set of instructions and a guide to where the logo was on my
hundred's windscreen. The set includes two masks so that one can be used for
practice. These are offered for $25.00 each set to help to offset the costs
of getting them produced. If you are interested, please contact me off list.
Thanks,
Richard Gordon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 10:53:15 -0700
Subject: Trunk Seal Problems
I just installed a new trunk seal from (you know who) and it just doesn't
seem to be the right one. I believe I installed it properly in the trunk
lid groove. There didn't appear to be too many different ways to do it. I
received some earlier feedback on this but, seriously folks, this just 'aint
funny anymore. Can anyone affiliated with a manufacturer help with
description, dimensions?
I'm ready to rip the thing out and strangle someone with it. Moss, BCS,
Beuller, anyone???
dp
BJ8 late for my date
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RanBullard at Clearchannel.com
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 13:48:25 -0400
Subject: CAN THIS BE TRUE?
I have always voted as an Independant because I have found too many problems
with the candidates forced on us by the Big Two. But wait until you read
this column from the LA Times!
Bush's Faustian Deal With the Taliban
By Robert Scheer
Published May 22, 2001 in the Los Angeles Times
Enslave your girls and women, harbor anti-U.S. terrorists, destroy every
vestige of civilization in your homeland, and the Bush administration will
embrace you. All that matters is that you line up as an ally in the drug
war, the only international cause that this nation still takes seriously.
That's the message sent with the recent gift of $43 million to the Taliban
rulers of Afghanistan, the most virulent anti-American violators of human
rights in the world today. The gift, announced last Thursday by Secretary of
State Colin Powell, in addition to other recent aid, makes the U.S. the main
sponsor of the Taliban and rewards that "rogue regime" for declaring that
opium growing is against the will of God. So, too, by the Taliban's
estimation, are most human activities, but it's the ban on drugs that
catches this administration's attention.
Never mind that Osama bin Laden still operates the leading anti-American
terror operation from his base in Afghanistan, from which, among other
crimes, he launched two bloody attacks on American embassies in Africa in
1998.
Sadly, the Bush administration is cozying up to the Taliban regime at a time
when the United Nations, at U.S. insistence, imposes sanctions on
Afghanistan because the Kabul government will not turn over Bin Laden.
The war on drugs has become our own fanatics' obsession and easily trumps
all other concerns. How else could we come to reward the Taliban, who has
subjected the female half of the Afghan population to a continual reign of
terror in a country once considered enlightened in its treatment of women?
At no point in modern history have women and girls been more systematically
abused than in Afghanistan where, in the name of madness masquerading as
Islam, the government in Kabul obliterates their fundamental human rights.
Women may not appear in public without being covered from head to toe with
the oppressive shroud called the burkha , and they may not leave the house
without being accompanied by a male family member. They've not been
permitted to attend school or be treated by male doctors, yet women have
been banned from practicing medicine or any profession for that matter.
The lot of males is better if they blindly accept the laws of an extreme
religious theocracy that prescribes strict rules governing all behavior,
from a ban on shaving to what crops may be grown. It is this last power that
has captured the enthusiasm of the Bush White House.
The Taliban fanatics, economically and diplomatically isolated, are at the
breaking point, and so, in return for a pittance of legitimacy and cash from
the Bush administration, they have been willing to appear to reverse
themselves on the growing of opium. That a totalitarian country can
effectively crack down on its farmers is not surprising. But it is grotesque
for a U.S. official, James P. Callahan, director of the State Department's
Asian anti-drug program, to describe the Taliban's special methods in the
language of representative democracy: "The Taliban used a system of
consensus-building," Callahan said after a visit with the Taliban, adding
that the Taliban justified the ban on drugs "in very religious terms."
Of course, Callahan also reported, those who didn't obey the theocratic
edict would be sent to prison.
In a country where those who break minor rules are simply beaten on the spot
by religious police and others are stoned to death, it's understandable that
the government's "religious" argument might be compelling. Even if it means,
as Callahan concedes, that most of the farmers who grew the poppies will now
confront starvation. That's because the Afghan economy has been ruined by
the religious extremism of the Taliban, making the attraction of opium as a
previously tolerated quick cash crop overwhelming.
For that reason, the opium ban will not last unless the U.S. is willing to
pour far larger amounts of money into underwriting the Afghan economy.
As the Drug Enforcement Administration's Steven Casteel admitted, "The bad
side of the ban is that it's bringing their country--or certain regions of
their country--to economic ruin." Nor did he hold out much hope for Afghan
farmers growing other crops such as wheat, which require a vast
infrastructure to supply water and fertilizer that no longer exists in that
devastated country. There's little doubt that the Taliban will turn once
again to the easily taxed cash crop of opium in order to stay in power.
The Taliban may suddenly be the dream regime of our own war drug war
zealots, but in the end this alliance will prove a costly failure. Our long
sad history of signing up dictators in the war on drugs demonstrates the
futility of building a foreign policy on a domestic obsession.
- - -
Robert Scheer Is a Syndicated Columnist.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TC <tm-c at gmx.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 20:45:18 +0200
Subject: Fuel Pump clicking
Hi Listers,
my BJ8 is running fine but the the fuel pump keeps clicking every 4
seconds.
This not only when pressure is building up before starting the engine
but also while the car is running.
The fuel filter isn4t blocked.
Any hints where and in what sequence I should start checking between the
pump, hoses, carbs, etc`?
I want to avoid taking the car apart and overlooking the obvious.
Thanks for any help.
Tim Campe
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 15:05:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Photo Sharing
We will be updating our web site very soon and it will be featuring a page
that is for doing just that. There will be places to post photos in several
catagories. This new feature along with a British Car message board will be
up and running in approximatly 3 weeks. So get your club event photos and
photos of you cars ready.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 15:08:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump clicking
There are two valves in the fuel pump that are there to maintaine the
pressure in the system as well as keep the pump full of fuel. If there is any
grit under these valves the pum wil continue to run very slowly as it is
trying to maintain the pressure in the system.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 15:18:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump clicking
Hi Tim,
If you have the original SU pump on your car it contains 2 valves. One
is on the intake and one is on the discharge. Assuming that you are
confident that the fuel is not leaking into the carbs (check this by
removing and blocking odd the hose that goes into the carbs)
If the intake valve leaks the pump will tick at a steady although slow
rate continuously. It is probably easiest to just change the valve (or
swap their positions as they are the same). Does involve disassembling
the pump.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 15:14:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal Problems
If you installed the seal in the groove in the channle on the shroud you
have installed the seal in the wrong place. Also some of the seals that arre
available are not correcrt the seal should have one side larger that the
other if you were to look at a cross section of the seal.
You need to install the seal with the larger side to the inner side of
the trunk and attach the seal to the trunk lid so that when the lid is closed
the U of the seal goes over the edge of the channel on the shroud.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 15:15:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump clicking
Tim,
You must be a "new" Healey guy! They're supposed to click!! When it stops,
THAT'S when you got trouble.
Dave
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 15:45:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump clicking
In a message dated 9/20/01 11:21:02, david_m@radiantsoundworks.com writes:
<<
Tim,
You must be a "new" Healey guy! They're supposed to click!! When it stops,
THAT'S when you got trouble.
Dave
BJ8 >>
While the comment may be semi humorous, it can be confusing. A common failure
mode is that the pump's valve are tired or dirty and leaking causing the pump
to keep clicking. Leaks in the fuel line/carbs can cause this too.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 12:48:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Small Parts - Throttle Linkage Clips & Dist Springs
In my zeal to clean thing up I have damaged one of my
throttle linkage clips. These are the little half
round spring clips with two small tabs. Upon closer
inspection it appears that I have a few of the small
tabs missing from some of the other clips.
Are the clips available?
Also, is there a source for distributor springs?
Thanks
Dean BN7
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 15:51:33 EDT
Subject: Persistent miss
My car (100 Le Mans) has had a light but annoying miss I cannot get rid of.
It only appears when I am running at a constant RPM, esp. between 2500-4300.
It is NOT there under load--that is, if I accelerate at all, whether
gradually or sticking my foot into it, there is no miss whatsoever and the
engine will gladly climb to redline. Also, if going uphill there is no
miss--just when running at light or no load, as in constant speed or
decelleration. The miss is inconsistent, but constant--kind of like a
blurbling sound to the exhaust and almost feels like wind buffeting.
It has been suggested that my needles might be too lean at that one "point"
and when I accelerate the piston rises, enriching the mixture and eliminating
the miss. Could be, but the needles have been in the carbs since a rebuild
last year and the miss appeared only a few months ago.
I had thought that perhaps one plug was misfiring so yesteday I took out a
set of NKG BP6ES's and put in a set of slightly used Champion RN3C's. If
anything that made the miss worse and now I am wondering if I have the wrong
plug range and that perhaps the acceleration (even gradual) instantly burns
off some fouling? However, the NKG's looked pretty good, having some light
carbonization on the end of the threads with both the electrode and tip being
a light tan color and dry.
Any suggestions appreciated--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 13:54:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Triplex logo...
Richard,
What you are doing is hardly cricket.
"Bob".
--
> From: HealeyHundred@aol.com
> Reply-To: HealeyHundred@aol.com
> Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 13:52:22 EDT
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Triplex logo...
>
>
> This is a sales offer, please delete if not interested and pardon my bombing
> the list.
>
> Over the past few months Roger Moment and I have been trying to reproduce the
> Triplex logo for authenticity to apply to new windscreens to go that extra
> step for concours.
>
> To this end we started on the task of recreating the Triplex logo as it
> appears on the windscreen of my 1955 Austin Healey Hundred which was built 18
> February 1955. I offer this build date as apparently the Triplex logo has
> small dots placed with in it so one can tell when the windscreen was
> manufactured. I had the logo recreated by an artist using my windscreen as
> the pattern. This was then produced as a blow up and an original sized black
> and white pattern. Then burned to a CD-ROM disc. The different methods we
> have tried include 1) using a specialized high-speed hand-engraving machine.
> Much to difficult and time consuming. 2) Having a rubber stamp made and
> using a glass etching gel, which only produced fair results, then considered
> using glass-etching acid. After talking with two separate glass artists we
> came up with the final method 3) Having a mask created that can be applied
> to the windscreen and sandblasting the image into the glass. The third
> method has provided fantastic results. Of course any existing logo must be
> removed, then the new logo can be applied.
>
> There are a few of the masks left. I am offering a set (2) of the masks
> including a set of instructions and a guide to where the logo was on my
> hundred's windscreen. The set includes two masks so that one can be used for
> practice. These are offered for $25.00 each set to help to offset the costs
> of getting them produced. If you are interested, please contact me off list.
>
> Thanks,
> Richard Gordon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 15:55:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Persistent miss
In a message dated 9/20/01 3:54:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Awgertoo@aol.com
writes:
> esp. between 2500-4300.
>
make that between 2500--3500 rpm's....
Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 21:13:14 +0100
Subject: Re: Persistent miss
If anyone else has a persistent miss, could they send her to me, please!
;-)
-
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 13:21:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Looking for book(s) on Austin Healey's competion history.
Hello,
I am looking for the title(s) of books that chronicle
Austin Healey's competion history.
Thanks in advance
Jorge
bj8
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 16:28:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Persistent miss
BOOOOOOO !!!!!
Alan F Cross wrote:
> If anyone else has a persistent miss, could they send her to me, please!
> ;-)
> -
> Alan Cross
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 17:10:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump clicking
Tim: It is supposed to click when the engine is running.. With the key on,
if it continues to click when the engine is NOT running, then you may have a
problem. First check for leaks between the pump and carbs. Then make sure
the float needles are closing. Look for dirt, actually tiny bits of rust,
in the bottom of the float bowl. These come from from a rusty tank and /or
fuel lines, and a small particle in the needle-and-seat would result in the
symptoms you have, as would similar contamination of the one-way valves in
the pump.
Good Luck, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "TC" <tm-c@gmx.net>
To: "Healey Chat" <healeys@autox.team.net>; <healeys-owner@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 2:45 PM
Subject: Fuel Pump clicking
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> my BJ8 is running fine but the the fuel pump keeps clicking every 4
> seconds.
> This not only when pressure is building up before starting the engine
> but also while the car is running.
> The fuel filter isn4t blocked.
>
> Any hints where and in what sequence I should start checking between the
> pump, hoses, carbs, etc`?
> I want to avoid taking the car apart and overlooking the obvious.
> Thanks for any help.
> Tim Campe
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 14:59:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump clicking
In a message dated 9/20/01 2:44:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tm-c@gmx.net
writes:
> the fuel pump keeps clicking every 4 seconds
Tim--
It's when it is NOT clicking that you should worry!
Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 18:26:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Triplex logo...
Soooo.......are you saying that anyone who enters a car in concours judging
MUST have only stuff on the car that was on it when it came from the
factory, and no replacement parts used to take the place of originals?!
Bob
>
>Richard,
>
>What you are doing is hardly cricket.
>
>"Bob".
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 19:13:49 -0400
Subject: Rotisserie plans
Good Evening:
Does anyone have plans for a rotisserie. I am starting on my frame work and
think this would be a great thing to have.
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
60 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 19:57:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Looking for book(s) on Austin Healey's competion history.
> Hello,
> I am looking for the title(s) of books that chronicle
> Austin Healey's competion history.
> Thanks in advance
> Jorge
> bj8
"Healeys and Austin Healeys" by Needham and Browning has to be about the
best I've run across. Probably long out of print, but maybe someone on the
list can help.
Lots of first hand accounts from the drivers and the people who were there.
Pretty exciting stuff. eg. Lance Macklin driving the 1955 Mille Miglia,
being overtaken by a fellow team member and shortly thereafter finding his
team mate lost his car off a hairpin, through the side of a bridge and into
a river!
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 21:16:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Photo Sharing
Thanks for all the responses (18 so far) I'll check out the suggestions and
decide which one works best for our needs. While preparing the last
newsletter I had over 45 digital photos from SE Classic submitted. Seems like
they should be shared.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
"When I take action I'm not going to fire a $2 million missile at a $10
empty tent and hit a camel in the butt." George W Bush
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 21:45:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal Problems
Hi, Dwight -
Why do you think it isn't the right seal?
Here's how I did mine:
I laid the seal around the mating lip of the trunk opening, on the shroud,
using masking tape at intervals to hold it sort of in place all the way
around. The cross section of the seal should have a flat surface on the
side that is glued to the trunk lid, and a wide U-shaped surface to mate
with the shroud lip.
Now, I got inside the trunk with a light and a pencil and had my son close
the trunk lid while I ensured that the seal stayed in place, or moved it as
necessary to make sure it was where it should be. Once the lid was closed
and the seal was trapped in place, I traced around the inside edge of the
seal with the pencil onto the trunk lid inside surface.
Next, I got out and stretched and had a beer while I got the kinks out from
being in the trunk.
Finally, I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive according to the directions to glue
the seal to the trunk lid, using the pencil marks as a guide. The seal fit
perfectly from the beginning, and has never leaked.
Of course, the hard part is getting into the trunk.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dwight Patten" <pattend@nortelnetworks.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 1:53 PM
> Subject: Trunk Seal Problems
>
>
> >
> > I just installed a new trunk seal from (you know who) and it just
doesn't
> > seem to be the right one. I believe I installed it properly in the
trunk
> > lid groove. There didn't appear to be too many different ways to do it.
> I
> > received some earlier feedback on this but, seriously folks, this just
> 'aint
> > funny anymore. Can anyone affiliated with a manufacturer help with
> > description, dimensions?
> > I'm ready to rip the thing out and strangle someone with it. Moss, BCS,
> > Beuller, anyone???
> > dp
> >
> > BJ8 late for my date
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 21:54:31 EDT
Subject: Big Oil Leak
Hi Listers,
I'm looking for some help regarding a severe oil leak in my '60 3000. It
seemed to come on all at once and was leaking at the rear of the engine. I
thought it was the rear crank seal but when we took the transmission out it
was clear that it wasn't coming from the seal. The whole clutch housing was
free of oil.
The back plate bolts were not so tight and some might be leaking there. But,
oil seemed to be leaking from many places as though there was a lot of
pressure in the engine forcing it out. For instance, the back carb which is
attached by a hose to the engine is full to overflowing with oil.
Any advice would be much appreciated. I have some very experienced British
car mechanics who are completely stumped by this.
Thanks,
Ned Paulsen
Rochester, NY
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Billy Carlisle <jcarlis at bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 22:04:32 -0400
Subject: [Fwd: FW: Where was your God on 09/11?]
I.m sure there were more ways God was busy that day but, these are a
few.
Return-Path: <cboss@deloitte.com>
Received: from wmp2-external.dttus.com ([208.35.153.18]) by
imf02bis.bellsouth.net (InterMail vM.5.01.01.01 201-252-104) with
ESMTP id
<20010920200427.LZGM28886.imf02bis.bellsouth.net@wmp2-external.dttus.c
om> for <jcarlis@bellsouth.net>; Thu, 20 Sep 2001 16:04:27 -0400
Return-Path: <cboss@deloitte.com>
Received: from nyc1.dttus.com by wmp2.dttus.com with ESMTP for
jcarlis@bellsouth.net; Thu, 20 Sep 2001 20:03:23 Z
Received: from [10.27.30.182] by nyc1.dttus.com with ESMTP; Thu, 20 Sep
2001 15:00:01 -0500
Received: by usestnt482.us.deloitte.com with Internet Mail Service
(5.5.2653.19) id <THS6CVLQ>; Thu, 20 Sep 2001 16:02:30 -0400
Message-Id: <6DEC02106C2FD411BF5100508BCF43C5020C1834@uscntnt413.us.delo
itte.com>
From: "Boss, Connie (US - Hermitage)" <cboss@deloitte.com>
To: "'fcpiii@mindspring.com'" <fcpiii@mindspring.com>,
"'smitchell640@aol.com'" <smitchell640@aol.com>,
"'jcarlis@bellsouth.net'" <jcarlis@bellsouth.net>,
"'claudiamail@earthlink.com'" <claudiamail@earthlink.com>
Subject: FW: Where was your God on 09/11?
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 16:02:28 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2653.19)
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
Something shared with me today. Connie
-----Original Message-----
From: Poteete, Sandy (US - Hermitage)
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 2:59 PM
To: Boss, Connie (US - Hermitage); Sanders, Barbara J. (US - Hermitage);
Vantrease, Daphne (US - Hermitage)
Subject: Where was your God on 09/11?
(Forwarded)
Dear Family and Friends,
I had a very dear friend question my faith in God right
after the terrorist attack on America. Her question was
simply put, "Where is your God today?" She was very
hurt, as all Americans were, so I tried not to react
defensively. Since that moment I have prayed and grieved
over the disastrous events. However, I believe I have
the answer. I know where my God was the morning of
September 11, 2001! He was very busy.
First of all, he was trying to discourage anyone from
taking this flight. Those four flights together held
over 1000 passengers and there was only 266 aboard.
He was on four commercial flights giving terrified
passengers the ability to stay calm. Not one of the
family members who was called by a loved one on one of
the hi-jacked planes said that passengers were
screaming in the background. On one of the flights he
was giving strength to passengers to try to overtake the
hi-jackers.
He was busy trying to create obstacles for employees at
the World Trade Center. After all only around 20,000
were at the towers when the first jet hit. Since the
buildings hold over 50,000 workers, this was a miracle
in itself. How many of the people who were employed at
the WTC told the media that they were late for work or
they had traffic delays?
He was holding up two 110-story buildings so that 2/3 of
the workers could get out. I was so amazed that the top
of the towers didn't topple when the jets impacted.
Although this is without a doubt the worst thing I have
seen in my life, I can see God's miracles in every bit
of it. I keep thinking about my friend and praying for
her every chance I have. I can't imagine going through
such a difficult time and not believing in God. Life
would be hopeless.
Thanks for letting me share this with you! (Thanks to my
friends who have already heard all of this, and haven't
told me to put a sock in it!)
This message (including any attachments) contains confidential information
intended for a specific individual and purpose, and is protected by law. If
you are not the intended recipient, you should delete this message. Any
disclosure, copying, or distribution of this message, or the taking of any
action based on it, is strictly prohibited.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 23:09:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Triplex logo...
Richard, you sound like you've already had a few too many scotches!
Bob
>Hi Bob Rich,
>
>Certainly not Cricket, Baseball...Tis America don't ya know...
>When are we going to a pub and to get a good stiff Scoth?
>
>Hi Bob Weidemeyer,
>
>If ya don't replace the rubber bits, ya get a deduction for condition :))
I
>hope you can join us for that Scotch!!!
>
>Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 20:34:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Persistent miss
Micheal -
This sort of miss can be caused by the following:
1) Mixture & timing is off. As you anticipated here
already - but the miss can also be caused by the
mixture being to rich at idle/ low power cruise
2) A Cylinder is scored. - Although not likely as this
usually only occurs at idle and not high speed RPM.
3) Your vacuum advance / distrubutor advance springs
are worn. This may be the cause of your problem -
Under high RPM / low power conditions is typically
when the distibutor has the most advance (other than
going down hill in low gear). If the vacuum advance
isn't working, the timing will be off and you will get
a regular, off beat miss at higher RPMs & closed
throttle.
4) Chipped exhaust valve. - Hopefully this isn't it -
check your compression and it will diagnose this if
one cylinder is too low.
My bet is #3
Remember the WTC
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> My car (100 Le Mans) has had a light but annoying
> miss I cannot get rid of.
> It only appears when I am running at a constant RPM,
> esp. between 2500-4300.
> It is NOT there under load--that is, if I accelerate
> at all, whether
> gradually or sticking my foot into it, there is no
> miss whatsoever and the
> engine will gladly climb to redline. Also, if going
> uphill there is no
> miss--just when running at light or no load, as in
> constant speed or
> decelleration. The miss is inconsistent, but
> constant--kind of like a
> blurbling sound to the exhaust and almost feels like
> wind buffeting.
>
> It has been suggested that my needles might be too
> lean at that one "point"
> and when I accelerate the piston rises, enriching
> the mixture and eliminating
> the miss. Could be, but the needles have been in
> the carbs since a rebuild
> last year and the miss appeared only a few months
> ago.
>
> I had thought that perhaps one plug was misfiring so
> yesteday I took out a
> set of NKG BP6ES's and put in a set of slightly used
> Champion RN3C's. If
> anything that made the miss worse and now I am
> wondering if I have the wrong
> plug range and that perhaps the acceleration (even
> gradual) instantly burns
> off some fouling? However, the NKG's looked pretty
> good, having some light
> carbonization on the end of the threads with both
> the electrode and tip being
> a light tan color and dry.
>
> Any suggestions appreciated--Michael Oritt
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 21:42:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal Problems
I had to immediately go out to the garage and try to picture myself in the
trunk with the lid shut. My God Steve are you a contortionist?
Sid 65 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal Problems
>
> Hi, Dwight -
> Why do you think it isn't the right seal?
> Here's how I did mine:
> I laid the seal around the mating lip of the trunk opening, on the shroud,
> using masking tape at intervals to hold it sort of in place all the way
> around. The cross section of the seal should have a flat surface on the
> side that is glued to the trunk lid, and a wide U-shaped surface to mate
> with the shroud lip.
> Now, I got inside the trunk with a light and a pencil and had my son close
> the trunk lid while I ensured that the seal stayed in place, or moved it
as
> necessary to make sure it was where it should be. Once the lid was
closed
> and the seal was trapped in place, I traced around the inside edge of the
> seal with the pencil onto the trunk lid inside surface.
> Next, I got out and stretched and had a beer while I got the kinks out
from
> being in the trunk.
>
> Finally, I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive according to the directions to
glue
> the seal to the trunk lid, using the pencil marks as a guide. The seal
fit
> perfectly from the beginning, and has never leaked.
>
> Of course, the hard part is getting into the trunk.
>
> Steve Byers
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 20:51:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump clicking
Tim -
I think everyone has already told you this, but anyway
- there are check valves inside the fuel pump. If one
of them is leaking or is broken, you will have this
problem.
The problem can be fixed using a thin piece of fuel
resistant plastic sheeting cut to replace the leaking
check valve. when you open the fuel pump, you will
see what I am talking about - there are two round
pieces of plastic in there that are the check valves.
Remember the WTC
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- TC <tm-c@gmx.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> my BJ8 is running fine but the the fuel pump keeps
> clicking every 4
> seconds.
> This not only when pressure is building up before
> starting the engine
> but also while the car is running.
> The fuel filter isn4t blocked.
>
> Any hints where and in what sequence I should start
> checking between the
> pump, hoses, carbs, etc`?
> I want to avoid taking the car apart and overlooking
> the obvious.
> Thanks for any help.
> Tim Campe
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 21:37:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal Problems
Steve-
Did you cheat by removing the gas tank or something? Otherwise you
must be the smallest Healey driver in captivity. I'd do without the
seal before I tried that maneuver.
-Roland
Me? fugettit!
On Thu, 20 Sep 2001 21:45:58 -0400, "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
wrote:
::
:: Hi, Dwight -
:: Why do you think it isn't the right seal?
:: Here's how I did mine:
:: I laid the seal around the mating lip of the trunk opening, on the shroud,
:: using masking tape at intervals to hold it sort of in place all the way
:: around. The cross section of the seal should have a flat surface on the
:: side that is glued to the trunk lid, and a wide U-shaped surface to mate
:: with the shroud lip.
:: Now, I got inside the trunk with a light and a pencil and had my son close
:: the trunk lid ....
::
:: Of course, the hard part is getting into the trunk.
::
:: Steve Byers
:: HBJ8L/36666
:: BJ8 Registry
:: Havelock, NC
::
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 00:04:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump clicking - ANOTHER THING TO CHECK
Tim -
Another thing to check (other than the check valves in
the fuel pump as I discussed earlier) is also check
the float valves in your carburettors. If crud is
keeping them from shutting or the rubber on them is
old, it can leak fuel out through the overflow pipe
onto the ground - meaning that your pump keeps pumping
gas whether the floats are full or not. A simple
check for this problem is to turn on the ignition, and
then look under the front of the car and see if any
gas is leaking on the ground (consistently). If you
see this, then you need to clean or replace the float
cutoff valves which is a very easy, cheap fix.
You may also need to check your carb floats also - if
they are full of gas and lose their ability to float
(and thus cutoff the fuel supply to the float when
full), you will get the exact same problem. To check
your floats, open the tops of the float chambers, pull
out the floats, shake them, and if you hear gas
shaking around in them, they are bad and you need to
buy new ones.
Remember the WTC
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- TC <tm-c@gmx.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> my BJ8 is running fine but the the fuel pump keeps
> clicking every 4
> seconds.
> This not only when pressure is building up before
> starting the engine
> but also while the car is running.
> The fuel filter isn4t blocked.
>
> Any hints where and in what sequence I should start
> checking between the
> pump, hoses, carbs, etc`?
> I want to avoid taking the car apart and overlooking
> the obvious.
> Thanks for any help.
> Tim Campe
__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ross Leonard" <rkleonard at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 12:34:41 -0400
Subject: Need confirmation on thread/diameter
Good Day,
My BJ8 axle case looks like it was dropped on the passenger side by the
previous owner, and the threaded end is a bit mangled. However it looks like
it could be fixed by a competent machine shop. I'd just like to confirm my
measurements before I send it away.
Outside diameter - 1 3/4"
Thread count - 16 tpi
Does this sound right?
Thanks for your help.
Ross.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 10:22:33 +0100
Subject: Re: Persistent miss
Michael
Could it be that your timing is too far advanced at this engine speed
and at maximum vacuum. Maybe the advance springs are too light or your
vacuum unit has too much travel. In short is your distributor giving the
correct timing under all conditions?
A temporary retarded setting will soon check this possibility.
All the best
>My car (100 Le Mans) has had a light but annoying miss I cannot get rid of.
>It only appears when I am running at a constant RPM, esp. between 2500-4300.
>It is NOT there under load--that is, if I accelerate at all, whether
>gradually or sticking my foot into it, there is no miss whatsoever and the
>engine will gladly climb to redline. Also, if going uphill there is no
>miss--just when running at light or no load, as in constant speed or
>decelleration. The miss is inconsistent, but constant--kind of like a
>blurbling sound to the exhaust and almost feels like wind buffeting.
>
>It has been suggested that my needles might be too lean at that one "point"
>and when I accelerate the piston rises, enriching the mixture and eliminating
>the miss. Could be, but the needles have been in the carbs since a rebuild
>last year and the miss appeared only a few months ago.
>
>I had thought that perhaps one plug was misfiring so yesteday I took out a
>set of NKG BP6ES's and put in a set of slightly used Champion RN3C's. If
>anything that made the miss worse and now I am wondering if I have the wrong
>plug range and that perhaps the acceleration (even gradual) instantly burns
>off some fouling? However, the NKG's looked pretty good, having some light
>carbonization on the end of the threads with both the electrode and tip being
>a light tan color and dry.
>
>Any suggestions appreciated--Michael Oritt
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 07:03:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal Problems
Heh, heh....
Well, I said it wasn't easy, Sid! You just have to be determined and
motivated by a desire to have a trunk that doesn't leak! It also helps not
to be 6'2" and 250 pounds! Otherwise, get yourself a well-trained small
person and let them climb in.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 11:42 PM
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal Problems
> I had to immediately go out to the garage and try to picture myself in the
> trunk with the lid shut. My God Steve are you a contortionist?
> Sid 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 07:05:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal Problems
Maybe I did have the tank out. I can't remember now, since it was at least
10 years ago.
Details, details.........
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 12:37 AM
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal Problems
Steve-
Did you cheat by removing the gas tank or something? Otherwise you
must be the smallest Healey driver in captivity. I'd do without the
seal before I tried that maneuver.
-Roland
Me? fugettit!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 23:44:35 +1000
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal Problems
Hi Steve,
I really try to never be negative.....
But if you can get into my trunk (boot for all European/ Australian
listers).... with the lid closed - and fix my bloody leaky seal ...... I
promise I'll be just outside (at all times) - and I will ensure that the
beers are cold when you get out (and after you have fixed my seal leak
: )
..... hey - and just as a personal favour to you Steve - I'll even test the
first few beers while you are inside the trunk (boot) - just to make sure
they really are COLD ....
Chris
PS my boot (trunk) pics are here
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey/boot.html
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 11:45 AM
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal Problems
.......Next, I got out and stretched and had a beer while I got the kinks
out from being in the trunk.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 08:51:58 -0700
Subject: [Off]Re: CAN THIS BE TRUE?
I would take anything written by Robert Scheer with a kilo of salt.
He is a Marxist and America-hater from way back in the _Ramparts_ magazine
days now earning a six-figure income as the LA Times' chief inhouse
left-wing columnist. You can read all about his hypocritical antics in David
Horowitz's book _Radical Son_.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 09:35:51 +0100
Subject: Distributer advance
Been reading the distributer advance emails and am confused. I thought
the advance for the 6 cylinder was all mechanical and the vacuum
actually did the opposite, reducing the advance under high-vacuum
crusing conditions for improved fuel economy but not operating under
full throttle. Is this correct? Is the 4 cylinder the same?
Rich Locasso
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 15:12:07 -0400
Subject: FW: Metal
Healeyites,
Would one of you out there tell me what the equivalent US metal gauge of
the body panels and frame pieces is?
Thanks,
Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 17:24:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal Problems
O.K., O.K.....
For all those doubters who don't believe it's possible to get into a Healey
trunk/boot and close the lid, here's an alternative:
Tape the new seal to the mating shroud lip at intervals with masking tape.
The ends of the seal should butt together at the bottom center of the lid
opening.
Get some blue builder's chalk at your local home improvement place and rub
it on the surface of the seal that will be glued to the trunk/boot lid.
Close the lid and hope that enough of the blue chalk will transfer to the
trunk/boot lid to mark the position of the seal, and that the seal will stay
in place.
Open the lid and trace around the inner edge of the seal on the lid as
marked by the blue chalk. Be careful not to remove the tracing when you
clean the chalk off.
Clean the chalk from the seal and lid and glue the seal to the lid with 3M
Weatherstrip Adhesive, using the tracing as a guide to position the seal.
Note that whenever you are gluing two things together, you can't have the
surfaces too clean.
Now go clean all that blue chalk and adhesive off of yourself and have a
beer.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal Problems
> Hi Steve,
>
> I really try to never be negative.....
>
> But if you can get into my trunk (boot for all European/ Australian
> listers).... with the lid closed - and fix my bloody leaky seal ...... I
> promise I'll be just outside (at all times) - and I will ensure that the
> beers are cold when you get out (and after you have fixed my seal leak
> : )
>
> ..... hey - and just as a personal favour to you Steve - I'll even test
the
> first few beers while you are inside the trunk (boot) - just to make sure
> they really are COLD ....
>
> Chris
>
> PS my boot (trunk) pics are here
>
> http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey/boot.html
>
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
> 1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
> 'one of the first and one of the last'
> http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Wood Jr" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 18:12:18 -0400
Subject: Lucas LeMans headlights
Can anyone give me some idea of the price I should be asking for original
LeMans headlights in original boxes? I have several still left over from
the 100S collecting days, along with several sets of the running lights new
in the box---also fit Morris Minor of the same 1955 era.
Please help me clean out the "garage".
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 15:26:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal Problems
To sum up, it seems that ALL accredited methods of successful trunk seal
installation share two common elements:
3M Weatherstrip Adhesive and BEER.
The only thing I could possibly add is for god's sake don't get the two
mixed up!
Jim, '62 BT7 tricarb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ahfrogeye at aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 20:07:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Rotisserie plans
I have a book called "The Racers Guide To Fabricating Equipment" that has
plans and directions to build a rotisserie. I made one using these plans and
it works great. The book is published by Steve Smith Autosports. It is ISBN
0-936834-45-5. I don't know if it is still in print but if it is you should
be able to find it with the above information.
Roger Lowery
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brian Collins" <bcolins at airmail.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 19:15:30 -0500
Subject: I'm back!.......Nasty boy in the making.
Well, I knew it was only a matter of time before I would have to put my
money where my mouth was.
I have been putting out the word for a couple of years that I was looking
for a 100-4 nasty boy or an 100-4 sans engine and trans to do the
conversion myself. Well, I got a call from a friend about 2 weeks ago who
put me on the scent of a trail and looks like I will soon be taking
possession of a 54 100-4. It actually comes as a partially disassembled but
complete and very straight car. I have some concerns about butchering a
complete and original car; but I'm no spring chicken anymore having recently
had the 50th bday, so, I guess its meant to be and its now or never.
So, My question is this, (yes I will be joining the nasty boy list) Is
anyone aware of a published (internet) archive of a "how to" do a sanitary
small block conversion? I will want this to be a 4 or 5 speed (T-5?) car
and would like to have either wire wheels (Borani?or bolt on American racing
alloys as I have seen on many other cars that originally had steel disc
wheels.
Also wondering what I should ask for my original engine and trans which I
will be selling to subsidize my conversion expense.
For those of you who have been wondering where I went for the last year or
so and what the status of my 61 MK1 restoration is, well, I have been doing
a considerable amount of cross country long distance motorcycling/camping
with the BMW Motorcycle owners association. I am now the Vice President of
the Dallas chapter. I just returned from a month long trek out to the
Oregon coast in July; a trip I have been planning for some time, only to
head off for another cycling camping adventure up to Kansas, Missouri and
over to the Ozarks to attack some of the finest roads this area has to
offer. I 'll be heading down to Texas Hill country in another few weeks to
do some riding with a new lady friend.
Yeah, I have lost interest in the BT7 and yes, it is about 95% done-----It
and all the related stuff takes up a considerable corner in my warehouse,
but,............I hope to get serious about it when the weather cools a bit
and get it running and driving and finished out----a weeks work would do it.
..........unfortunately, I will probably sell her as I really have just lost
interest in it; maybe that will change when I am able to turn the key for
the first time in 8 years.
After motorcycling across the country, I just cant imagine that anything
but a "bugs in the teeth" with lots of raw power available experience is
gonna do it for me; thus the decision to pursue the 100-4 V8.
Thanks for indulging me with the use of bandwidth with my update and please
respond to me off list unless you feel your response will be of value to the
entire list.
Brian Collins
Southern Motorsports
Dallas, TX
61 BT7
Soon to be 54 100-4 Nasty Boy
PS. I would consider doing some trading if someone with a nasty boy 100-4
would like a good Texas car as a starting point for an original car
restoration.
Brian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Doug Ingram" <dougi at home.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 17:41:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Lucas LeMans headlights
Bill:
I'm pretty sure you should be selling me those headlights for around 25
bucks each :)
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
1958 Sprite (AN5L/636)
1963 Sprite Mk II project (HAN7L/30003)
1987 Jaguar XJ6 VDP
and looking for just the right BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: William Wood Jr <healeybill@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 3:12 PM
Subject: Lucas LeMans headlights
>
> Can anyone give me some idea of the price I should be asking for original
> LeMans headlights in original boxes? I have several still left over from
> the 100S collecting days, along with several sets of the running lights
new
> in the box---also fit Morris Minor of the same 1955 era.
>
> Please help me clean out the "garage".
>
> Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 11:09:59 +1000
Subject: Re: Rotisserie plans
Minor correction---
"Racer's Guide to Fabricating Shop Equipment No. S145"
John Block et al
> I have a book called "The Racers Guide To Fabricating Equipment" that has
> plans and directions to build a rotisserie. I made one using these plans and
> it works great. The book is published by Steve Smith Autosports. It is ISBN
> 0-936834-45-5. I don't know if it is still in print but if it is you should
> be able to find it with the above information.
>
> Roger Lowery
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JBHawkes at aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 22:20:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump clicking
While it may sound silly, don't overlook the obvious: the amount of fuel in
your gas tank may be low and the pump is pumping fuel part of the time and
air part of the time. I learned this the hard way. Gas gauges frequently
lie, and a starved pump is a clicking pump.
Jim Hawkes
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 23:39:12 -0400
Subject: Re: I'm back!.......Nasty boy in the making.
> PS. I would consider doing some trading if someone with a nasty boy 100-4
> would like a good Texas car as a starting point for an original car
> restoration.
>
> Brian
Brian,
Welcome back! I do recognize the absence of the name.
I am not a purist and neither of my big Healeys is fully original. However,
it seems a real shame to go choping on a very good candidate for a resto as
your description sounds. I would suggest you follow up on your idea above.
Let's preserve the marque.
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 11:23:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Metal
Hi, Gordy -
I measured the frame rail thickness in several places as 0.075" (14
gauge). The door skin, bonnet, and rear wing sheet metal measured about
0.040" - 0.044" (19 gauge), depending on the location measured.
Measurements were taken on spares that I have in areas without paint.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam@usol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 3:12 PM
Subject: FW: Metal
>
> Healeyites,
> Would one of you out there tell me what the equivalent US metal gauge of
> the body panels and frame pieces is?
>
> Thanks,
> Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 12:35:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Metal
Hi, Jim -
Nice meeting you at Southeastern. Sorry we didn't have more time to chat.
As far as I know, that wasn't TARHEELY that you saw. I can't remember being
that close to an Alvis, but I'll be looking for the Speedvision show to run
again to see if anything looks familiar.
I can't seem to get the link to the photos to work.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
To: byers@cconnect.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 11:39 AM
Subject: Re: Metal
Steve,
I just finished watching eclassics on Speedvision. They had an owner profile
on an Alvis. (neat car). In the opening shot of the Alvis feature was a yellow
with black inserts Healey, was that TarHeely?
PS I have some SEC XV photos online. I've posted them to a webshots page at
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=viewall&;
albumID=21757513
36 photos in all. Thanks to Ben Moore, Sarah Richey, Don Lenschow and Mike
Schneider for the photos.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 13:07:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Metal
Seems I used the album owners URL. Try
http://community.webshots.com/album/21757513boxfBpIpVc
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 11:29:56 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Forwarded: Healey for sale
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 20:47:16 -0500
From: Al Adams <aradams@gte.net>
Subject: Healey for sale
I received this from a buddy who is not on the list. He asked that I pass
it on to anyone who may be interested. Please contact him directly. Thanks.
Al Adams
60 Bugeye
> Any help you can give me would be appreciated.
>
> '60 Big Healey Mk1 BT7 - Good interior - all gauges - new ignition system put
> in and car started after 17 years of storage - complete car - wire wheels,
> top frame, Primrose Yellow auto. email
> beck_bruce@hotmail.com or call Bruce Beck (731)925-5040 in Savannah, TN
>
> Al, hope this is enough. I noticed that when I typed my e-mail address that
>the
> underscore
> the _ symbol went away because it underlines the entire address. Bruce
------- End of forwarded message -------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 11:39:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Metal
Steve,
I just finished watching eclassics on Speedvision. They had an owner profile
on an Alvis. (neat car). In the opening shot of the Alvis feature was a
yellow with black inserts Healey, was that TarHeely?
PS I have some SEC XV photos online. I've posted them to a webshots page at
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=viewall&;
albumID=21757513
36 photos in all. Thanks to Ben Moore, Sarah Richey, Don Lenschow and Mike
Schneider for the photos.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The Wards" <russward at lineone.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 20:42:15 +0100
Subject: lemans headlamps
In reply to your request for pricing of these.
Whilst at Beauleiu Autojumble two weeks ago one stallholder had and apair and
told us these are now being produced in the UK and they will be available
approx Xmas this year. Expected price will be #125.00 per pair
Mell Ward UK
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JRLNJ at aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 16:03:36 EDT
Subject: BJ8 Distributor needed
The base of my distributor cracked, and the broken pieces have been lost.
The "timing" clamp can no longer grip it.
Does anyone on the list have a good, or a rebuildable distributor to sell me?
You can contact me off the list.
Thanks,
Ray Lynch
BJ8, Bugeye
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 15:49:32 -0500
Subject: Apologies
To the Healey List:
I apologize for sending personal stuff to Jerry on the list site. I clicked
on "reply" to his e-mail to me and for some reason it went to the list. I
just upgraded from IE5.5 to IE6.0 and the Outlook Express e-mail program was
changed. Maybe that is what caused the mix up.
Sorry
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 21:12:08 -0400
Subject: Unique ?
Healeyites,
I have owned my BN4 47704 for 30 years, but it has sat ignored in my garage
for about the last 25 years waiting patiently for all the kids to graduate and
more away, and me to finally come to either my good senses or poor judgement
and begin a restoration, atleast to the point of making it comfortable and
safely driveable. Even when I bought the car the floorboards were and trunk
were rusted out and galv. metal had been crudely screwed in, probably due in
part to Michigan road salt. I did some patchwork on some panels, made some
rocker panels out of mesh and fiberglass and drove it around for a few years
before the pressures of family and career, and a deteriorating frame caused me
to park it.
So now I am excited about my new project. I rebuilt all the hydraulics, the
engine is running good, the transmission clunks loudly in first gear (but I
don't spend much time there so I have ignored this), but otherwise the car
moves well. I bought a few books about restorations and Healeys, and am trying
to learn how to gracefully take it all apart so I can put it all back
together. I am trying to also learn how to decide what panels I should but
whole, which to buy repair sections for, and which to just patch. I know I
cannot afford to purchase all new panels, and the frame repairs must come
first anyway.
So after all this prelude, here are my questions:
I noticed today, after owning this car for so long, that the right side rear
wing has the swage line behind the rear wheel, while the left side rear wing
swage line stops at the rear wheel. According to the tables in the books I
have, the swage line should continue on this car... or could it have actuall
been built this way? I have no way of knowing what panels on this car are
original. Is this a unique situation?
Looking at the catalogs from Moss, Victoria and British Car Spec., I see
some variations in price and availability of the metal panels. Are all of
these equivalent quality, or should I beware of some sources?
Are the frame repair sections strictly plain butt weld insertion, or do some
have a swaged insertion end ? Are extra reinforcement plates needed?
Is there a source of factory assembly details, such as what sequence pieces
were installed and welded in? Such as, it seems the handbrake cable needs to
be installed before the prop shaft is in place.
Thanks for listening...I hope to hear from some of you soon.
Gordy
' 57 BN4 47704
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 22:00:38 EDT
Subject: SEC pics
Okay, after recuperating from the great SEC. The NTAHC web site
<www.ntahc.org> has some coverage and pictures. The pics are under Past
Events. This was one to remember. For those that attended and took the Tour
at Jack Daniel's you can find your group pictures at <www.jackdaniels.com>
just search the date 9-15 and they are there.
Thanks to Tim Moran for getting this page loaded.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
PS check out the rest of the site, it includes information on Texas Healey
Round Up 2002.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 12:12:34 -0700
Subject: Baffled by electrics: Part 2
First, let me thank the people who responded to my plea for help last week,
both to the list and directly. Roland Wilhelmy realized that I could have been
in over my head with the multimeter. I wasn't offended, and from his post what
I had done was confirmed as correct. The last time I used one of these
instruments I was a pre-teen and now I'm looking at retirement so it had been
a while. Unfortunately, the instructions that came with the one that I bought
would fit on the head of a pin so I was really stretching my memory, which is
not always a great idea.
Mark Endicott sent an excellent e-mail that I followed as far as it would go.
He said: "Put your ohm meter on the OHMS X1 range and check from the "CB"
terminal to ground, engine block. You will either have about 0 Ohms or it will
be open infinite resistance."
Me: Don't have a setting described as X1, but setting the meter at 20 ohms, I
have what I interpret as infinite resistance (a reading of 1) which is the
same reading that you have with the leads touching nothing.
He; "This will depend on weather the points are closed or open. Remove the
distributor cap and open/close the points and look at the meter. "
Me: Same reading regardless of points open/closed.
He "If you still have 0 Ohms. Make sure that there is an insulated washer
where the points attach to the condenser and coil wire, it is not uncommon to
find the wires on top of the insulator and that will short out the points. The
two wires to the points go under the washer and the nut tightens the washer
which compresses the wires on the points."
Me: This insulator you talk about is not there, but why should it need to be?
The post that the points connect to is nylon and continues as a threaded nylon
rod. If the two wires make contact with the points and they are held in place
with a compression (spring) washer and all is held in place with a nut. What
would an insulator do considering the nylon post?
You people a great source. If anyone sees what I am not getting, please let me
know.
Bob Johnson
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 19:33:10 -0400
Subject: test
test
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Biloselhir at aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 19:41:44 EDT
Subject: gauge restoration
Need to restore gauges in my 59 BN4 while they are out of car during
restoration. Speedometer did not register correctly (15 or so mph high),
tach was slow to respond, gas gauge was erratic, etc. Gaskets around glass
are shot, faces are not bad but could be better, etc. Need recommendations
of who to get to do this work.
Thanks for any help,
Bill
biloselhir@aol.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 19:52:32 EDT
Subject: persistent miss--solution
The solution--supplied by Doug Reid of 18G Motorworks in Catonsville Md--was
simply to retard the timing from about 28 degrees to 22 or so and the spark
stopped breaking down. I just got back from a trip down to Richmond and the
miss is positively gone. Doug also changed my needles out to one level
richer, as even with the jets dropped my plugs had appeared to be indicating
a lean mixture.
I still don't understand why the miss was not present under load but rather
only at constant RPMs above 2500. I can only guess that it has to do with
the effect of the centripedal and/or vacuum advances, but I'd like to know
how retarding the timing approx. 5 degrees changed the equation.
Predictably, I am now having to be a bit more careful with overheating than
when I was too far advanced, and finding and keeping the "sweet spot" seems
to be a daunting task. Is it just 100's that are finicky about timing or are
6-cylinder cars the same? Can other 100 drivers (esp. LeMans and M cars)
tell me how their cars' timing is set up?
Thanks--Michael Oritt
100 Le Mans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 17:14:31 -0700
Subject: Fwd: Healey models
Forwarded by request for a friend, no financial interest, etc. Please reply
to DKirby210@aol.com:
>From: DKirby210@aol.com
>Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 19:58:31 EDT
>Subject: Healey models
>To: rsnover@ix.netcom.com (Rick Snover)
>
>Rick--
>
>Could you please forward this to the Healey group...
>
>I just returned (via a 5 day delay) from the AutoJumble in Bealieu. While
>there, my friend and I made contact with the people who make the very nice
>pewter models of classic English cars. In short, we "partnered" up, and
>could import, directly from them, these models. I would not want to make any
>huge chunk of money, just enough to cover expenses--mainly shipping. The
>models are about 3/4" wide, about 2" long. I imagine they would be under
>$10. each, hopefully "considerably under"--this would all depend on the
>number ordered, shipping costs, etc. Fortunately, they are small, so the
>shipping should not be too bad.
>
>The following Healey models are available: Bug eye, Sprite Mk 2, 3000 Mk3,
>3000Mk2 Works Rally, 100M, 100S. I bought a Mk3, even though I have a Mk1,
>and other than the 2 parking/turn signall lights in front, it could pass for
>a Mk 1 or 2.
>
>They also have just about every other kind of model you can think of--from
>Alfa Romeos to VWs, in case you have other afflictions (as some of us do!!)
>also.
>
>They have pretty good detail, and are just "too cute!!"
>
>Steve Kirby
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA
http://rsnover.home.netcom.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Brown" <cabman at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 19:44:04 -0500
Subject: sagged frame / '64 sprite
Hello all,
I have a 64 AH Sprite and strongly suspect that the frame on the drivers side
has sagged. The door needs to be lifted a bit to get it to close smoothly. In
addition, The gap between the door and fender is a heavy 1/16" at the top
front and 1/4" at the bottom.
Now the question. What is the best way to repair this sag - and are there any
other likley conditions that would result in the same symptoms?
Please feel free to answer on or off the list.
Thanks Steve Brown - middle Tennessee
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 18:26:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Distributer advance
Rich -
You actually have it backwards. Vacuum advance
basically advances the ignition up to about 30 degrees
before TDC at high rpm. The reason why you have
vacuum advance is combustion is not an instantaneous
event (i.e. it takes time for a gas 'explosion' to get
up to full power in the cylinder) - as a result as the
engine spins faster, you need to ignite the fuel
earlier so that you get the maximum explosive effect
on the piston at the right time for maximum power and
fuel economy.
Hope that explains it.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com> wrote:
>
> Been reading the distributer advance emails and am
> confused. I thought
> the advance for the 6 cylinder was all mechanical
> and the vacuum
> actually did the opposite, reducing the advance
> under high-vacuum
> crusing conditions for improved fuel economy but not
> operating under
> full throttle. Is this correct? Is the 4 cylinder
> the same?
>
> Rich Locasso
> BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 20:42:58 -0700
Subject: Healey Wanted
Listers:
I have two friends / acquaintances looking for
Gold level cars.
One for a BN2 and the other for a BJ8, esp a
Healey blue BJ8
or perhaps a Beige BJ8.
Anyone with a lead on first class completely
finished cars please contact me.
thanks
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 21:49:42 -0700
Subject: Washer pumps, trafficator
Dear Listers-
I'm terribly confused, trying to get a fix on what the correct washer
pump unit is for my Longbridge BN4. Gary's book says it should be a
Trafalgar, not Tudor. I've seen plenty of Tudor pumps, some with two
spigots (one inlet, one outlet), and some with three (one inlet, two
outlets). The 2-spigot Tudor sure looks usable for a Longbridge BN4,
which has only one centrally located jet head on the shroud.
And what about the knob? Should my car have a bakelite knob, with a
chrome cup bezel? Details?
Looking for definitive information, please (and, does anyone have a
working Trafalgar unit laying about?).
Secondly-
An NOS 6-cyl. fixed column trafficator (head, stator, harness) has
turned up in a friend's stash....he plans to sell it, possibly on
Ebay......if anyone is interested, please email me. (no financial
interest).
Thanks- Fred Meyer
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ray Bradbery" <raymond at optushome.com.au>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 19:44:29 +1000
Subject: Proof Coating
After six months of rebuilding body parts I am now ready to start painting
the 1959 BN7 I am restoring. Can anyone tell me of any areas of the body or
frame which were proof coated when the Healey's were produced. Was the floor
treated in anyway or just undercoated?
Regards
Ray Bradbery
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 06:58:34 -0500
Subject: Re: sagged frame / '64 sprite
Steve Brown wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I have a 64 AH Sprite and strongly suspect that the frame on the drivers side
> has sagged. The door needs to be lifted a bit to get it to close smoothly. In
> addition, The gap between the door and fender is a heavy 1/16" at the top
> front and 1/4" at the bottom.
>
> Now the question. What is the best way to repair this sag - and are there any
> other likley conditions that would result in the same symptoms?
>
I'd look for a worn door hinge(s) first. If you do some more measuring of both
door openings to compare, you might have your answer. Keep in mind that these
cars were not built by robots so the measurements will reflect that.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 11:45:50 -0400
Subject: Restoration Pictures of BJ7 or BJ8
Does anyone have pictures of a BJ7 or BJ8 wiring on the car before the
fenders and cowl are put in place? I'm not sure of the details of where the
harness is supposed to run along the sides of the engine compartment and in
the front. The pictures I'm using are of a completed car, and some areas
are not visible.
Also, I remember someone posting a set of pictures of the undercarriage
which shows the brake line, fuel line and wiring harness. Could someone
direct me to that web site, or send me a set of those pictures.
Out here in New York City (where I work), things are getting back to normal.
Our building was evacuated for 2 weeks, as we are about 5 blocks from the
world trade center. I spent that time putting my car together and listening
to the radio. It was very therapeutic, as I was too distracted to do things
that require thinking, like paying bills, and earning a living. I guess you
could say that the bright spot of this time was that I got an incredible
amount of work completed on my restoration.
Thanks.
Ryan
64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 11:48:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Proof Coating
In a message dated 9/24/2001 2:48:51 AM, raymond@optushome.com.au writes:
<< Can anyone tell me of any areas of the body or
frame which were proof coated when the Healey's were produced. Was the floor
treated in anyway or just undercoated?
>>
Not sure what you mean by "proof coating" but there was very little, if any,
factory applied undercoating on Healeys. We've seen a coating called
"Flintkote" which was applied UNDER the color coat on the floors and the
bottom of the trunk around the gas tank. (you could see the brush strokes
through the paint). Other than that, no coating of any sort.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 09:20:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Proof Coating
For that matter, what is the general concensus on sound deadening and
"water proof" undercoatings.
After having some restorative work done on my BJ8 frame, the body shop
mindlessly painted the frame black from the doors back. As many of you
know, on a blue Healey, the frame should be body color. I now have to
decide to either go ahead and paint the rest of the frame black, in which
case I'll use a quality undercoating, or re-paint the black parts blue. This
isn't a concourse restoration but I do want to stay as original as is
practical so I'm a little conflicted. Anyone else have to make this
decision? What product did you use?
Coop ('66 BJ8)
> Not sure what you mean by "proof coating" but there was very little, if
any,
> factory applied undercoating on Healeys. We've seen a coating called
> "Flintkote" which was applied UNDER the color coat on the floors and the
> bottom of the trunk around the gas tank. (you could see the brush strokes
> through the paint). Other than that, no coating of any sort.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 12:27:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Restoration Pictures of BJ7 or BJ8
Hi, Ryan -
When I replaced the wiring harness in my BJ8, before removing the old
harness I made some detailed sketches of the harness routing and wiring
connections. Be glad to fax these to you if you send me your number. Reply
by e-mail to byersms@navair.navy.mil and I'll get them off to you today.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2001 11:45 AM
Subject: Restoration Pictures of BJ7 or BJ8
>
> Does anyone have pictures of a BJ7 or BJ8 wiring on the car before the
> fenders and cowl are put in place? I'm not sure of the details of where
the
> harness is supposed to run along the sides of the engine compartment and
in
> the front. The pictures I'm using are of a completed car, and some areas
> are not visible.
>
> Also, I remember someone posting a set of pictures of the undercarriage
> which shows the brake line, fuel line and wiring harness. Could someone
> direct me to that web site, or send me a set of those pictures.
>
> Out here in New York City (where I work), things are getting back to
normal.
> Our building was evacuated for 2 weeks, as we are about 5 blocks from the
> world trade center. I spent that time putting my car together and
listening
> to the radio. It was very therapeutic, as I was too distracted to do
things
> that require thinking, like paying bills, and earning a living. I guess
you
> could say that the bright spot of this time was that I got an incredible
> amount of work completed on my restoration.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Ryan
> 64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 09:55:21 -0700
Subject: Undercoating question
<< Can anyone tell me of any areas of the body or
frame which were proof coated when the Healey's were produced. Was the floor
treated in anyway or just undercoated?
>>
Not sure what you mean by "proof coating" but there was very little, if any,
factory applied undercoating on Healeys. We've seen a coating called
"Flintkote" which was applied UNDER the color coat on the floors and the
bottom of the trunk around the gas tank. (you could see the brush strokes
through the paint). Other than that, no coating of any sort.
What sort of "penalty" is given to concours entrants who show undercoating
on their frame and wheel wells? I, for one, did not like the look of a car
with painted white wheel wells and white frame underneath and chose to
instead use a high quality(3M) undercoater. The brake lines, harness etc.
were all done after, of course. I like it had no intentions of going for a
100 point car but, was curious.
dp BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 10:20:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Online Healey classifieds
Does anyone know if there is an online classifieds for
Healeys or for Brit. cars? I am looking for new/used
rally grind cams, triple Weber set-ups, headers, side
exhaust, front shroud...etc.
Thanks in advance
Jorge
'65 bj8
Replacement aluminum tank arrriving this week. Lots $$
and still have not driven it more than two blocks
without being towed back.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 13:19:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Proof Coating
Gary Anderson wrote:
> Not sure what you mean by "proof coating" but there was very little, if
any,
> factory applied undercoating on Healeys. We've seen a coating called
> "Flintkote" which was applied UNDER the color coat on the floors and the
> bottom of the trunk around the gas tank. (you could see the brush strokes
> through the paint). Other than that, no coating of any sort.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
List:
I have a black coating on the engine compartment that appears original to
the car and covers the original Colorado Red throughout the engine
compartment. I have had the car since 1980 and the coating was there when I
got the car. It isn't thick like undercoating . It isn't oversprayed on
anything and is not under the asbestos heat shields. There it is Colorado
Red. Everything I have read says that the engine compartment should be
Colorado Red, so I assume this is a later addition. Any other thoughts?
John Cope
62BT7 Mark II
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 13:58:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Undercoating question
Hi Dwight,
One of the best ways to find out what kind of deduction would be made is to
acquire a set of the current Guidelines from
Walt Blanck
443 East5 Pine Lake Circle
Vernon Hills, IL 60061
(847) 918-9291
For $25.00. This set will include a set of score sheets with deductions.
Off hand, I am not sure where this would apply, probably int the Exterior
Body Panels and Paint section and since these include most of the
undercarriage and the wheel arches, and are quit visible, I would suggest a
deduction of 3 to 7 points out of 1000. These points would be applied to the
originality portion. Gary, what do you think?
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 14:27:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Restoration Pictures of BJ7 or BJ8
We have a photo set of a BJ7 that we did a frame up restoration on that shows
the location on the lines, clips, harness, electrical parts, and much more.
There are about 90 photos that are all close up detailed photos of the entire
car starting with a bare frame and finishing with a completed car.
We also have them available for the 100/6 and 100/4. We are also currently
working on a set for a BT7 and a BJ8.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 14:38:44 -0500
Subject: Motorola AM radio dealer installed in my '62 3000
Hi Listers, sorry to be behind the curve...Our EMail's been out for five
days thanks to the NIMDA virus but was someone on the list looking for a
Motorola radio?? I have two. One was dealer installed in my '62 BT7 Mk2.
I bought this car new and I still own it. There is yet another radio I
picked up somewhere eons ago. Both are AM and are the non-push button
variety. They may require an external speaker if I remember correctly.
Both apparently work and will look pretty good with minor clean up. If
you're interested, just contact me and we'll talk 'em over.
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 13:10:43 +0100
Subject: Re: Distributer advance
Hi Alan-
Thanks for your note. After reading it I decided to peek at the BT7
shop manual and here's what I found.
"Automatic timing control of the distributor is controlled by a
centrifugal mechanism and a vacuum-operated unit each operating entirely
independently of each other. The centrifugal mechanism regulates the
ignition advance according to engine speed, while the vacuum control
varies the timing according to engine load. The combined effect of the
two mechanisms gives added efficiency over the full operating range of
the engine."
The centrifugal advance curve is mechanical, and as rpm increases so
does advance in lock step fashion. My question is, at any given rpm, say
for example 2,500, doesn't the vacuum component serve to 1) retard the
advance under no load, as crusing down the highway, and 2) return the
advance to full advance under heavy load, as in when the throttle is
wide open for full accelleration?
If so, maximum advance is set by the mechanical unit and the vacuum
unit serves only to retard from maximum advance as load lessens on the
engine, as in highway crusing, and I believe this is done for better gas
mileage.
Is this correct? This was my impression, but some comments on the list
were at odds with this and I asked for a confirmation.
Thanks again,
Rich
One.Proud.American wrote:
>
> Rich -
>
> You actually have it backwards. Vacuum advance
> basically advances the ignition up to about 30 degrees
> before TDC at high rpm. The reason why you have
> vacuum advance is combustion is not an instantaneous
> event (i.e. it takes time for a gas 'explosion' to get
> up to full power in the cylinder) - as a result as the
> engine spins faster, you need to ignite the fuel
> earlier so that you get the maximum explosive effect
> on the piston at the right time for maximum power and
> fuel economy.
>
> Hope that explains it.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> --- Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com> wrote:
> >
> > Been reading the distributer advance emails and am
> > confused. I thought
> > the advance for the 6 cylinder was all mechanical
> > and the vacuum
> > actually did the opposite, reducing the advance
> > under high-vacuum
> > crusing conditions for improved fuel economy but not
> > operating under
> > full throttle. Is this correct? Is the 4 cylinder
> > the same?
> >
> > Rich Locasso
> > BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 16:56:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Proof Coating
In a message dated 9/24/01 9:23:38 AM, coop1@dnai.com writes:
<< I now have to
decide to either go ahead and paint the rest of the frame black, in which
case I'll use a quality undercoating, or re-paint the black parts blue. This
isn't a concourse restoration but I do want to stay as original as is
practical so I'm a little conflicted. Anyone else have to make this
decision? What product did you use? >>
If it's not a concours car and you're comfortable having a black and blue
car, then go ahead and repaint as necessary to make it look good to your
eyes. However, with regard to undercoating -- concours considerations aside
-- selling an undercoated car, especially one that wasn't done that way
originally, can be a problem because the buyer must ask himself, "Do I feel
lucky?" Or is that undercoating covering up rust, bondo, cardboard and
chicken wire?
Also, undercoating is actually not a very good protector of the car. Instead,
if there is any break in the coating that will allow moisture to get in, the
car can happily rust from the inside out without any problems appearing until
the doors fall open or something. Instead, you're a lot better off just
painting the car, then once a year carefully cleaning it underneath and
repainting the few stone chips as needed to maintain the integrity of the
pain.
Good luck
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 16:59:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Undercoating question
In a message dated 9/24/01 10:00:42 AM, pattend@nortelnetworks.com writes:
<< What sort of "penalty" is given to concours entrants who show undercoating
on their frame and wheel wells? I, for one, did not like the look of a car
with painted white wheel wells and white frame underneath and chose to
instead use a high quality(3M) undercoater. The brake lines, harness etc.
were all done after, of course. I like it had no intentions of going for a
100 point car but, was curious. >>
The penalty for undercoating is pretty significant. Any part that can't be
evaluated for originality and condition is deducted as if it weren't present.
And undercoating generally makes it impossible to determine the condition of
the part while frequently making it difficult to determine the originality of
the part (e.g. is it metal or fiberglass). Without looking at the score
sheets, I believe it's safe to say that an undercoated car that is otherwise
absolutely perfect could not score well enough to make gold.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 16:40:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Proof Coating
Gary wrote:
> Also, undercoating is actually not a very good protector of the car.
Instead,
> if there is any break in the coating that will allow moisture to get in,
the
> car can happily rust from the inside out without any problems appearing
until
> the doors fall open or something. Instead, you're a lot better off just
> painting the car, then once a year carefully cleaning it underneath and
> repainting the few stone chips as needed to maintain the integrity of the
> pain.
>
The other option regarding rust-proofing would be to forego fixing any oil
leaks from the engine and rely on the natural process of gravity and
momentum inherent in all fine British engineering. In due time, the oil
escaping from the engine will work it's way under the car towards the back
coating frame rails, brake lines, exhaust brackets, the back side of your
license plate as well as any insistent tailgater thus forming a rust
inhibiting barrier. Like water, the oil will find it's way into every nook
& cranny. ;-)
One could argue this is probably the truest form of English rust-proofing
techniques. Just trying to make sense out of the madness. Have fun.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 17:57:29 EDT
Subject: BJ8 timing question
Hi Listers:
I imagine this has been covered before, but I wasn't paying attention at the
time. I've taken care of most of the major things on the BJ8 I bought this
spring and am very happy with it in general. I seems to run well, but is a
bit weak in the lower RPM range, but picks up power in the higher RPMs. It
also likes to run on when I turn off the key. I was going to adjust the
timing and looked in my original service manual for timing info when using a
timing light. There was none. The only thing I found was static timing info
and something about not going beyond 35 degrees BTDC. Is there a suggested
timing setting, with a timing light, for this engine? I always use premium
gas. By the way, with this engine, should I be using a lead additive, or
can I safely use no-lead? It is a '65.
Thanks in advance for any info.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 18:53:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Proof Coating
Also can be used if you ever get lost -- just retrace your oil drops ala
Hansel and Gretel.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
>
> Gary wrote:
>
> > Also, undercoating is actually not a very good protector of the car.
> Instead,
> > if there is any break in the coating that will allow moisture to get in,
> the
> > car can happily rust from the inside out without any problems appearing
> until
> > the doors fall open or something. Instead, you're a lot better off just
> > painting the car, then once a year carefully cleaning it underneath and
> > repainting the few stone chips as needed to maintain the integrity of
the
> > pain.
> >
>
> The other option regarding rust-proofing would be to forego fixing any oil
> leaks from the engine and rely on the natural process of gravity and
> momentum inherent in all fine British engineering. In due time, the oil
> escaping from the engine will work it's way under the car towards the back
> coating frame rails, brake lines, exhaust brackets, the back side of your
> license plate as well as any insistent tailgater thus forming a rust
> inhibiting barrier. Like water, the oil will find it's way into every
nook
> & cranny. ;-)
>
> One could argue this is probably the truest form of English rust-proofing
> techniques. Just trying to make sense out of the madness. Have fun.
>
> Cheers,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 19:14:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributer advance
Rich: You got it almost right this time. Actually, the "vacuum advance"
should be called "vacuum retard" because it RETARDS the timing under load to
prevent knock and pre-detonation, which can be very damaging to the engine.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
To: "One.Proud.American" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2001 8:10 AM
Subject: Re: Distributer advance
>
> Hi Alan-
>
> Thanks for your note. After reading it I decided to peek at the BT7
> shop manual and here's what I found.
>
> "Automatic timing control of the distributor is controlled by a
> centrifugal mechanism and a vacuum-operated unit each operating entirely
> independently of each other. The centrifugal mechanism regulates the
> ignition advance according to engine speed, while the vacuum control
> varies the timing according to engine load. The combined effect of the
> two mechanisms gives added efficiency over the full operating range of
> the engine."
>
> The centrifugal advance curve is mechanical, and as rpm increases so
> does advance in lock step fashion. My question is, at any given rpm, say
> for example 2,500, doesn't the vacuum component serve to 1) retard the
> advance under no load, as crusing down the highway, and 2) return the
> advance to full advance under heavy load, as in when the throttle is
> wide open for full accelleration?
>
> If so, maximum advance is set by the mechanical unit and the vacuum
> unit serves only to retard from maximum advance as load lessens on the
> engine, as in highway crusing, and I believe this is done for better gas
> mileage.
>
> Is this correct? This was my impression, but some comments on the list
> were at odds with this and I asked for a confirmation.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Rich
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 20:33:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Proof Coating
Listers,
I have to chime in on this one. My BJ8 had undercoating on it when I bought
it in 73. During the resto in 90-91 I found the under hid a few less than
satisfactory areas as Gary noted. On the frame up resto of the BN7 I
decided early on that no under would be used. Additionally, I just do not
like the appearance of the stuff.
But most importantly of all and this sums up Gary's point below. If under
does a good job of keeping water out, then it will do an equally good job of
keeping water in!
Keith Pennell
> Also, undercoating is actually not a very good protector of the car.
Instead,
> if there is any break in the coating that will allow moisture to get in,
the
> car can happily rust from the inside out without any problems appearing
until
> the doors fall open or something. Instead, you're a lot better off just
> painting the car, then once a year carefully cleaning it underneath and
> repainting the few stone chips as needed to maintain the integrity of the
> pain.
>
> Good luck
> Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 18:06:28 -0700
Subject: RE: Distributor advance
This question seems to come up from time to time. And, for some reason,
I always feel compelled to answer it. I suppose its because I like the
theory behind engine design. The messages I have included are correct,
although I'll give you a little different reason why.
You need a mechanical advance because, as has been pointed out, the
combustion of the fuel/air mixture takes a relatively significant amount
of time as compared to the time it takes the piston to move in the
cylinder. So, as engine RPM increases, you need to start combustion
earlier to achieve the best power. An engine will run great with a
completely mechanical distributor, but it won't get as good fuel economy
as one with a vacuum advance.
The vacuum advance is designed to help with another problem. That is,
the length of time it takes the fuel/air mixture to burn is also
dependent on the cylinder pressure. When the throttle is wide open, the
intake manifold is almost at atmospheric pressure and the cylinders are
taking in as much fuel/air as possible. When you start to close the
throttle, the vacuum in the intake manifold increases (pressure drops)
and the cylinders can't draw in as much fuel/air, which results in lower
cylinder pressures. (imagine doing compression tests with the throttle
open and closed). As the cylinder pressure drops, it takes longer to
burn the fuel/air mixture so again you need to advance the timing (see
note 1). The vacuum advance advances the timing as cylinder pressure
drops. Since the intake manifold pressure and cylinder pressures are
related, it does this by sensing the intake manifold. The vacuum
advance really helps part-throttle engine performance and is the reason
why it impacts fuel economy so much.
Auto-ignition (detonation, knocking, etc.) is another whole topic, but
it really limits the maximum amount of ignition advance your engine can
tolerate. The amount of advance added by your vacuum advance is
sufficient to cause heavy auto-ignition under full throttle. So, some
people look at its function from that perspective; the vacuum advance
reduces the ignition advance under full throttle to prevent
auto-ignition. I prefer to look at it as an additional tweak to the base
mechanical timing to improve part-throttle performance. Your choice
really. Hope this helps...
Bill W.
Note 1: Really the change is combustion time is only part of the story.
The auto-ignition threshold also changes and the engine can tolerate
more advance. I'm not sure which is the primary factor.
> Rich: You got it almost right this time. Actually, the
> "vacuum advance"
> should be called "vacuum retard" because it RETARDS the
> timing under load to
> >
> > The centrifugal advance curve is mechanical, and as rpm increases so
> > does advance in lock step fashion. My question is, at any
> given rpm, say
> > for example 2,500, doesn't the vacuum component serve to 1)
> retard the
> > advance under no load, as crusing down the highway, and 2)
> return the
> > advance to full advance under heavy load, as in when the throttle is
> > wide open for full accelleration?
> >
> > If so, maximum advance is set by the mechanical unit and the vacuum
> > unit serves only to retard from maximum advance as load
> lessens on the
> > engine, as in highway crusing, and I believe this is done
> for better gas
> > mileage.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 19:04:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Online Healey classifieds
Jorge -
In general, the best online source for parts is Ebay -
but you may need to follow ebay for a couple months to
get the exact parts you want.
For complete cars, I haven't found much, but
www.wwwheels.com seems to have alot of british cars on
it all the time.
hope that helps! Remember the WTC.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know if there is an online classifieds
> for
> Healeys or for Brit. cars? I am looking for new/used
> rally grind cams, triple Weber set-ups, headers,
> side
> exhaust, front shroud...etc.
> Thanks in advance
> Jorge
> '65 bj8
> Replacement aluminum tank arrriving this week. Lots
> $$
> and still have not driven it more than two blocks
> without being towed back.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 22:24:55 EDT
Subject: Garage floor coating recommendations?
I am wrapping up my new workshop (an all consuming, all summer project), and
need to consider coating the floor. Does any one have any experience here
they'd care to share? Floor: 2 month old concrete, in floor heat (tubing),
insulated, drywalled building. Looking for end to concrete dust, resistance
to oil, gas, scuffing, welding, paint overspray, etc.
Please feel free to respond off list (s), and notice the multiple list
addresses above.
thanks!
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7
'80 TR8 Coupe
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
'39 Dodge Business Coupe
Etc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 18:50:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Distributer advance
I've seen both types, and both on lucas distributors. The way to tell the
difference is by observing which direction the vacuum dashpot is situated on the
distributor in relation to the direction of rotation. The Healey's distributor
(and most other Brits) turns counterclockwise, and the dashpot is on the left
side which means it pulls the point plate in a clockwise (advance) direction
when
it is actuated by a high vacuum. This situation occurs (a) at idle and I suppose
the static timing is set to account for this, (b) at higher engine speeds in
conjunction with the centrifugal advance which means it adds to the total
advance
at part throttle and when the engine is at cruise and (c) when the throttle is
closed on coast down which may work to keep unburned gasses out of the exhaust
stream by allowing more time for combustion before the exhaust valve opens. I
think the only use of pull-off (?) vacuum systems (vacuum retarding?) has been
for the purposes of emission control. Some TR 6s have both. Go figure!!!
Bill Lawrence
Rich Locasso wrote:
> Hi Alan-
>
> Thanks for your note. After reading it I decided to peek at the BT7
> shop manual and here's what I found.
>
> "Automatic timing control of the distributor is controlled by a
> centrifugal mechanism and a vacuum-operated unit each operating entirely
> independently of each other. The centrifugal mechanism regulates the
> ignition advance according to engine speed, while the vacuum control
> varies the timing according to engine load. The combined effect of the
> two mechanisms gives added efficiency over the full operating range of
> the engine."
>
> The centrifugal advance curve is mechanical, and as rpm increases so
> does advance in lock step fashion. My question is, at any given rpm, say
> for example 2,500, doesn't the vacuum component serve to 1) retard the
> advance under no load, as crusing down the highway, and 2) return the
> advance to full advance under heavy load, as in when the throttle is
> wide open for full accelleration?
>
> If so, maximum advance is set by the mechanical unit and the vacuum
> unit serves only to retard from maximum advance as load lessens on the
> engine, as in highway crusing, and I believe this is done for better gas
> mileage.
>
> Is this correct? This was my impression, but some comments on the list
> were at odds with this and I asked for a confirmation.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Rich
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 22:48:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Garage floor coating recommendations?
John,
Stay away from the latex floor paint. I have used it twice, and have never
really been happy with it, but it is easy to touch up. The Alkyd type oils
are much better, and the epoxy floor paints are really tough and will stand
up to just about everything. The best product available now is probably the
new spray on floor coating. This stuff is almost the same as the new spray
in bed liners for pickups, and is virtually indestructable. You would have
to check into the material to see if it will insulate your radiant heat
setup...that may be a problem. I have not used this stuff, but have seen it
and heard great things.
Usual disclaimers.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 22:53:27 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 timing question
Yes Don, I do play the banjo. Don't you know that people that own british
cars (especially more than one) are eccentric about other things, too!
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Lisa & Mark <bugtop at home.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 20:43:52 +0000
Subject: Rear clicking noise
Hello,
I have a BJ8, and I am getting a clicking noise from the right rear
wheel area. I suspect the brake since it went away at one point, and
when I applied the brake it came back. This sounds like the noise we
got when clipping baseball cards on the forks of our bicycles into the
spokes. The clicking speeds up and down with the wheel speed.
Jacked up, I have spun the wheel with no sound, I have removed the drum
and everything looks OK. I readjusted the rear brake. I still have the
noise when driving.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Mark Buggy
'67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Olin Kane <kanes at frontier.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 21:10:11 -0600
Subject: Vacuum Question
Has anyone measured the vacuum at the rear carb vacuum port on the six
cylinder engine? I get 2-3 " of Hg at idle. Seems low.
Olin Kane
BJ7
Durango, CO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bpdahls" <bpdahls at msn.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 17:37:03 -0400
Subject: Help with shifting
Hello!
I have a 1963 Austin Healey Mark II BJ7. I have replaced the clutch disc,
pilot bearing, release bearing and the transmission forward seal. I'm still
having problems with shfting gears - I cannot shift with the engine running.It
appears to me and the mechanic that I do not have enough travel in the master
cylinder. I bought the car from a person who rebuilt it and never drove it, he
bought the car from a person who had disassembled it and it was in boxes.
There is a good likelyhood that wrong parts were used (according to the person
I bought the car from there are parts from a 1962 Healey mixed in with the
others). I have had the car for over a year and when first purchased did a lot
of repairs/corrections, part of which was to get the shifting of gears working
(replaced the slave cylinder and had to get the clutch plate unstuck from the
flywheel) anyway the car did run and performed reasonably well. The shifting
of gears woked okay at first (never real good but I do not know what real good
is) but did get progressively worse (I've put about 1000 to 1500 miles on the
car), so I decided to get professional help - viola the parts previously
listed being replaced (they were worn and the disc was drenched in oil).
Can anyone help me analyze the problem. When looking at the Moss catalog I see
there are two different clutch pedal levers - what's the difference between
the two? Could I possibly have the wrong lever installed. I have silicone
fluid in the system - I've been told this may be the problem in that silicone
compresses more than Dot 3 brake fluid.
Would appreciate any suggestions.
Bill Dahlstrom
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 03:30:16 -0500
Subject: LSR semi British Stuff ( no LBC )
I had an interesting opportunity presented to me and I thought I would
share it with the list....
Don Wales the Grandson of Sir Malcolm Campbell.... who was a Land speed
racer and water speed racer of note.... in any case Don asked me if I could
help him out getting a couple of lic's here in the states.... He is
Building a Land speed racing electric car in England... This helps him alot
as it limits the lic, pass requirement and several days it takes on the
Salt...
So he is flying over from England today and meeting me in Maxton North
Carolina on Friday.... Should be a great weekend of racing up there....
Needless to say since I destroyed the whole drive train in the car at
Bonneville.... ... I had to completely rebuild it in the last month....
front to rear.... suspension... trans.... and engine... (finally gave up on
the engine and put one of our 500hp Mule motors in it... )
Keith Turk ( http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk )
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 08:01:25 EDT
Subject: Distributor advance
Bill L., Bill W. and Rich L.
I have enoyed reading your posts about distributor advance and I now
understand a bit better the functioins of the inertial and vacuum systems.
Going further, how would one decide what profile a distributor advance should
have? Specifically, I have been considering installing a Mallory Series #47
Unilite distributor and one of the claims is that "both advance curves can be
adjusted....". Since I have an M-spec car what would I want them to change
from the "normal" specs? And what would one be looking for in making such
subsequent "adjustments"--would they be based on subjective observation or
based on objective factors such as cam profile, etc?
Michael Oritt--100 Le Mans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 05:23:54 -0700
Subject: Undercoating rebuttal
he penalty for undercoating is pretty significant. Any part that can't be
evaluated for originality and condition is deducted as if it weren't
present.
And undercoating generally makes it impossible to determine the condition of
the part while frequently making it difficult to determine the originality
of
the part (e.g. is it metal or fiberglass). Without looking at the score
sheets, I believe it's safe to say that an undercoated car that is otherwise
absolutely perfect could not score well enough to make gold.
I somewhat disagree. The undercoating of yesteryear was not not nearly as
good as today's 3M products. It's like cheap paint. It only looks good for
a short time. If the frame is prepped well, undercoating should last as
long or longer than any painted frame. Why do you think all of us are
spending big money rebuilding all these frames on our cars? Look at other
non-British 30-40 yr old frames. You may not see the extensive damage so
common on Healey's. Undercoating got a bad name when PO's used it to cover
up ugly or rusty areas. I'll let you know in about 10 years how I made out.
dp
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 08:22:28 -0700
Subject: "VOTE" Virus Alert
Listers: The following was faxed to my by my son who received it from his
business bosses:
"A new virus is spreading today which asks the recipient to vote for whether
the USA should go to war with Islam. When you open the .exe file it deletes
all the files on your PC. DO NOT OPEN ANY "VOTE" EMAILS DELETE THEM FROM YOUR
MAILBOX. The suspicion is that this virus comes from a foreign source.
(signed) CIO."
Len.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 08:54:53 -0700
Subject: Re: "VOTE" Virus Alert
At 08:22 AM 9/25/01 -0700, Marge and/or Len Hartnett wrote:
>Listers: The following was faxed to my by my son who received it from his
>business bosses:
>
>"A new virus is spreading today which asks the recipient to vote for whether
>the USA should go to war with Islam. When you open the .exe file...
That's the key: DO NOT OPEN ANY .EXE FILES that you receive as e-mail
attachments unless you know and trust the source and their computer, or
scan the file with the LATEST virus definitions.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 12:19:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Undercoating rebuttal (not)
In a message dated 9/25/01 12:27:24, pattend@nortelnetworks.com writes:
<<
he penalty for undercoating is pretty significant. Any part that can't be
evaluated for originality and condition is deducted as if it weren't
present.
And undercoating generally makes it impossible to determine the condition of
the part while frequently making it difficult to determine the originality
of
the part (e.g. is it metal or fiberglass). Without looking at the score
sheets, I believe it's safe to say that an undercoated car that is otherwise
absolutely perfect could not score well enough to make gold.
I somewhat disagree. The undercoating of yesteryear was not not nearly as
good as today's 3M products. It's like cheap paint. It only looks good for
a short time. If the frame is prepped well, undercoating should last as
long or longer than any painted frame. Why do you think all of us are
spending big money rebuilding all these frames on our cars? Look at other
non-British 30-40 yr old frames. You may not see the extensive damage so
common on Healey's. Undercoating got a bad name when PO's used it to cover
up ugly or rusty areas. I'll let you know in about 10 years how I made out.
dp
BJ8
<<<<<<<<
How can you call that a rebuttal. You didn't address any of the points Gary
made. Whether or not you like undercoatings or think they may be better than
the old ones has nothing to do with how undercoatings will be scored in a
concours judging.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 12:26:19 EDT
Subject: Re: "VOTE" Virus Alert
In a message dated 9/25/01 10:26:30 AM Central Daylight Time,
thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
<< Listers: The following was faxed to my by my son who received it from his
business bosses: >>
After checking to make sure this was not a hoax, here is what it can do.
Don
NTAHC
I-Worm.Vote
This Internet worm spreads via e-mail messages using MS Outlook. Upon being
executed, the worm sends infected messages to all addresses stored in the
Outlook address book, then it overwrites all HTML files on the local disk
drives. Upon the next Windows start-up, the worm tries to delete all files in
the Windows folder, and reboots the computer.
The worm arrives to a computer as an e-mail message with an attached
executable file that is the worm itself. The malicious message contains the
following:
Subject: Fwd:Peace BeTweeN AmeriCa And IsLaM !
Message: Hi iS iT A waR Against AmeriCa Or IsLaM !? Let's Vote To Live in
Peace!
Attachment name: WTC.exe
The worm doesn't run automatically from e-mail. It is activated only when a
user starts it manually (by double-clicking on the attachment).
Upon being executed, the worm sends infected messages to all addresses stored
in the Outlook address book. Then it opens two Internet browsers utilizing
sites that are closed at the moment. Also, it replaces the Internet Explorer
start-up page with one of its own. Following this, the worm drops two
different VBS files.
The first one is named "MixDaLaL.vbs" that the worm creates and runs
immediately in the Windows folder. This file has a script program that
searches for files with HTM and HTML extensions on all removable and local
hard drives, and overwrites them with a short text:
AmeRiCa ...Few Days WiLL Show You What We Can Do !!! It's Our Turn >>> ZaCkEr
is So Sorry For You .
The second VSB file the worm drops into the Windows system folder with the
name, "ZaCker.vbs", and registers it in the auto-run registry section. This
means the file will be automatically executed upon the next Windows start-up.
Upon being executed, it attempts to delete all files in the Windows
directory, overwrites AUTOEXEC.BAT with a command destroying all data on
drive C:, and then it displays the following message:
I promiss We WiLL Rule The World Again...By The Way,You Are Captured By
ZaCker !!!
The worm finally reboots the computer. As a result, the system may be
rendered unbootable or all data may be destroyed.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 11:08:26 -0700
Subject: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
How can you call that a rebuttal. You didn't address any of the points Gary
made. Whether or not you like undercoatings or think they may be better than
the old ones has nothing to do with how undercoatings will be scored in a
concours judging.
OK OK.. Answer this one. Given clean bare or fully repaired metal, is
undercoating (good one I mean) that much different to see what's under it
than paint? Could it possibly conceal a poorly patched rusted frame? If
you can't tell the difference, you should not even be looking. Last time I
looked undercoating did not have a structural capability. I am not talking
about a restoration that blasts material on the car to cover over brake
lines, harness, fuel lines, I am speaking of a total professional
restoration.
So, if my car is black I should only use the same black paint instead of the
option of a high quality black 3M undercoating to avoid being penalized in
concours judging?
Preposterous.
dp
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 14:21:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
In a message dated 9/25/01 18:11:10, pattend@nortelnetworks.com writes:
<< OK OK.. Answer this one. Given clean bare or fully repaired metal, is
undercoating (good one I mean) that much different to see what's under it
than paint? Could it possibly conceal a poorly patched rusted frame? If
you can't tell the difference, you should not even be looking. Last time I
looked undercoating did not have a structural capability. I am not talking
about a restoration that blasts material on the car to cover over brake
lines, harness, fuel lines, I am speaking of a total professional
restoration.
So, if my car is black I should only use the same black paint instead of the
option of a high quality black 3M undercoating to avoid being penalized in
concours judging?
Preposterous.
dp
BJ8 >>
Now, with that information, I (or most folks) would think, "Yeah, this car is
a high quality car with a good frame protecting paint job". Concours is a
different animal, as we learn on this forum. I'm pretty sure though that as
long as the appearance isn't too darned slick (over-restored) you'll probably
score pretty well. That's the part that can seem preposterous. Like Gary was
mentioning though, the tacky thick coatings that are so commonly sprayed over
these cars frames is so far from how these cars left the factory that there
is no way they can even be considered for high scoring concours judging. What
you are talking about is probably going to do OK in concours judging in the
States. In europe you would score higher.
The only problem with disagreeing with the concours rules/judges is a low
score. the popular judging is always a better bet.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 16:12:39 EDT
Subject: Bic Healey Artwork
I received this email today from a nice lady (who shall remain anonymous in
case her husband is on this list). She is looking for Bic Healey Artwork. I
had a link on my website to the "Healey Gallery" that offered Bic's work but
it no longer works. Any ideas?
Jim Werner
<< I'm not sure if you can help direct me, but I have been searching the web
for days trying to find somewhere that I can locate Bic Healey Artwork. My
husband has one of his pictures and I would like to get him another one for
his birthday, but am finding myself unsuccessful. I found a link on your
General Interest Page that should take you to Healey Artwork, but it doesn't
follow through.
Can you help direct me? I really appreciate whatever help you can offer. I
know he would love this and I'm hoping to find it.>>
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 16:26:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
An interesting and contoversial thread to be sure.
One thought though about this whole subject....When I do a complete and
thorough restoration, and apply quality paint everywhere possible, why is
there a need for undercoat?
I'm not going to subject the car to road salt, which is what the
undercoating was originally designed to protect from. With today's quality
paints, the durabulity is much better than the old original nitrocellulose
laquers they originally used, so it's not going to be blasted off the
surfaces when negotiating gravel roads and the like...and I will!
Water will bead up and be easily dried off, or dried splashes can be easily
washed off.
I periodically get under the car, maybe once or twice a year (like just
prior to a show) and clean the underside down, remove road gunge and tar and
touch up the odd chip from rocks and so on.
The car can maintain a very high quality finish for years, following these
practices.
Try cleaning road crap off an undercoated finish, or accumulated sand and
dirt from a rear wheel well or inner dogleg area. If there's quality smooth
paint in these areas, they simply flush out using a water hose nozzle.
Again, I ask...why is there a need for undercoating?
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 16:37:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Help with shifting
>Bill wrote: <snip>
I have a 1963 Austin Healey Mark II BJ7. I have replaced the clutch disc,
> pilot bearing, release bearing and the transmission forward seal. I'm
still
> having problems with shfting gears - I cannot shift with the engine
running.It
> appears to me and the mechanic that I do not have enough travel in the
master
> cylinder>
Can anyone help me analyze the problem. When looking at the Moss catalog I
see
> there are two different clutch pedal levers - what's the difference
between
> the two? Could I possibly have the wrong lever installed. I have silicone
> fluid in the system - I've been told this may be the problem in that
silicone
> compresses more than Dot 3 brake fluid.
I would check for wear in the clevis rod and pin connecting the clutch pedal
to the master cylinder. Also check to see that the slave cylinder pushrod
hole and pin are not worn and that the pushrod is the correct original
length. Check to see that the hydraulic flex line to the slave cylinder
isn't soft and "balooning" as you depress the clutch pedal.Last thing to
check is that the clutch release fork bushings and pin (pivoting in the bell
housing) are not badly worn.
Silicone fluid has absolutely nothing to do with your problem. I've never
heard of another clutch pedal lever as you mention in the Moss catologue.
"Course, I don't have a Moss cat. to refer to!
Also, parts from a '62 should be the same as the '63 as long as they are
both centr shift gearboxes.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dan Tiedge" <dtiedge at aholdusa.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 16:50:14 -0400
Subject: Weiler's Nostalgic Motorworks - Norfolk, VA
I'm looking at a BN2 that was restored in the 1988-1989 time frame by the
outfit referenced above.
I don't believe the shop is still in business.
Anyone out there have any experience with these guys?
Thanks in advance.
Daniel C. Tiedge
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Bridger" <RBridger01 at mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 17:29:56 -0400
Subject: Rear clicking noise
Lisa & Mark,
Two areas to check: 1) Are the hubs torqued to the correct setting? If not,
the hub can rotate enough to make the noise and in time break the studs. 2) Do
you have any broken or loose spokes. Ping them with a small hammer or wrench
and check the one(s) that sound different. Replace the broken ones.
Good luck.
Bob
BJ 7 & 8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 20:11:49 -0400
Subject: Re:Instrument Panel
Would anyone have a decent BN2 instrument panel available? If so, please
contact me off the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 19:29:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Help with shifting
Bill -
My first stupid question to you - did you bleed the
system? Ok... if yes then...
Another thing to check for is you may have the wrong
master cylinder on your car.
The Slave Cylinders are basically all the same and the
pedals are basically all the same as well. It is
relatively hard to get these parts interchanged and
scewed up on a 3000 (but heck, it CAN happen).
The only thing that can obviously cause this problem
from being the wrong part is the master cylinder, and
that's because the brake and master cylinders are
interchangeable on the mounts (and for most early
3000s both cylinders are exactly the same).
This can be a problem because if someone has
accidentally put a brake master from a servo assisted
BJ7 or BJ8 on your car as the clutch master, you may
not get enough travel to disengage the clutch.
A good way to check this is - ask yourself - does the
clutch feel really stiff or hard to push on? If that
is the case, then you may have a servo brake master
accidentally mounted as your clutch master. - Another
visual check is most of the time a servo brake master
is steel rather than alloy and comes with an
"accordian" style boot cover the pedal shaft rather
than a simple rubber cap on the clutch or non-servo
brake masters.
Other things to check are:
1) Slave cylinder shaft - is it the right one? If too
long or short may not work properly - Hydraulic leaks
around the slave will indicate this.
2) Clutch release bearing - if you have the wrong one,
the slave cylinder's internal puck may be centred
incorrectly and loosing pressure & fluid & thus not
dinengaging the clutch - check for hydraulic leaks
here.
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- bpdahls <bpdahls@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Hello!
>
> I have a 1963 Austin Healey Mark II BJ7. I have
> replaced the clutch disc,
> pilot bearing, release bearing and the transmission
> forward seal. I'm still
> having problems with shfting gears - I cannot shift
> with the engine running.It
> appears to me and the mechanic that I do not have
> enough travel in the master
> cylinder. I bought the car from a person who rebuilt
> it and never drove it, he
> bought the car from a person who had disassembled it
> and it was in boxes.
> There is a good likelyhood that wrong parts were
> used (according to the person
> I bought the car from there are parts from a 1962
> Healey mixed in with the
> others). I have had the car for over a year and when
> first purchased did a lot
> of repairs/corrections, part of which was to get the
> shifting of gears working
> (replaced the slave cylinder and had to get the
> clutch plate unstuck from the
> flywheel) anyway the car did run and performed
> reasonably well. The shifting
> of gears woked okay at first (never real good but I
> do not know what real good
> is) but did get progressively worse (I've put about
> 1000 to 1500 miles on the
> car), so I decided to get professional help - viola
> the parts previously
> listed being replaced (they were worn and the disc
> was drenched in oil).
>
> Can anyone help me analyze the problem. When looking
> at the Moss catalog I see
> there are two different clutch pedal levers - what's
> the difference between
> the two? Could I possibly have the wrong lever
> installed. I have silicone
> fluid in the system - I've been told this may be the
> problem in that silicone
> compresses more than Dot 3 brake fluid.
>
> Would appreciate any suggestions.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 21:46:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Instrument Panel
Hello everyone,
I am proud to say that I just bought my first Healey, a 1963 BJ7. I am
pretty excited and can't wait to get it on the road. The only problem
is that I can't seem to keep the water in the radiator. My father, who
is slightly more mechanically inclined than myself, seems to think that
the gasket on the water pump is bad. The water leaks out a little when
the motor is running but it leaks much faster when the motor stops.
Does this sounds like it is the water pump or just the gasket? At 23
years old I am probably one of the youngest and least experienced
members of the list and would appreciate any help. Also, any tips on
what the first few things I should concentrate on would be very much
appreciated. Thanks.
Win Graham
'63 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 21:05:12 -0700
Subject: New Healey Owner (was: RE: Instrument Panel)
> I am proud to say that I just bought my first Healey, a 1963 BJ7.
Congratulations Win!
> At 23
> years old I am probably one of the youngest and least experienced
> members of the list and would appreciate any help.
I got my first Healey when I was 20 and didn't have a resource like
this list to call on. We're living in good Healey times.
> Also, any tips on
> what the first few things I should concentrate on would be very much
> appreciated. Thanks.
> Win Graham
> '63 BJ7
Well, mine the web for as much knowledge as possible, join your local
Austin-Healey Club, and a national one too!
<webmaster's plug>
Check out the Austin-Healey Club USA website at: http://healey.org/
</webmaster's plug>
What to concentrate on first? How about the safety items: brakes,
lights, steering, suspension... We want to keep you around. :)
Brad Weldon
BN1 [226796]
http://bradw.com/
Webmaster, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://healey.org/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 21:44:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Help with shifting
There are four different release bearings used during the production life of the
fours and sixes. I'll bet you don't have the right one. They differ in the
distance between the bearing face and the pins which fit in the fork. Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
bpdahls wrote:
> Hello!
>
> I have a 1963 Austin Healey Mark II BJ7. I have replaced the clutch disc,
> pilot bearing, release bearing and the transmission forward seal. I'm still
> having problems with shfting gears - I cannot shift with the engine running.It
> appears to me and the mechanic that I do not have enough travel in the master
> cylinder. I bought the car from a person who rebuilt it and never drove it, he
> bought the car from a person who had disassembled it and it was in boxes.
> There is a good likelyhood that wrong parts were used (according to the person
> I bought the car from there are parts from a 1962 Healey mixed in with the
> others). I have had the car for over a year and when first purchased did a lot
> of repairs/corrections, part of which was to get the shifting of gears working
> (replaced the slave cylinder and had to get the clutch plate unstuck from the
> flywheel) anyway the car did run and performed reasonably well. The shifting
> of gears woked okay at first (never real good but I do not know what real good
> is) but did get progressively worse (I've put about 1000 to 1500 miles on the
> car), so I decided to get professional help - viola the parts previously
> listed being replaced (they were worn and the disc was drenched in oil).
>
> Can anyone help me analyze the problem. When looking at the Moss catalog I see
> there are two different clutch pedal levers - what's the difference between
> the two? Could I possibly have the wrong lever installed. I have silicone
> fluid in the system - I've been told this may be the problem in that silicone
> compresses more than Dot 3 brake fluid.
>
> Would appreciate any suggestions.
>
> Bill Dahlstrom
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 00:38:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
Because there's an underlying message here.......the people who use
undercoat don't take care of their cars like you do, and really use it to
hide all the imperfections under the car. I've never seen a concours car
with undercoat on it, unless it came from the factory that way; but I've
seen plenty of "dogs" with nice, thick undercoat to cover up the lack of
attention to detail under the car.
Bob
>Again, I ask...why is there a need for undercoating?
>Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 00:17:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Instrument Panel
Congrats Win -
I bought my BJ8 when I was 19, and I've since owned it
now for 17 years (still under the same restoration I
did to it 17 years ago and it still looks pretty kick
ass)!
Ask yourself - can you see where the water is leaking
from? Can you hear hissing after the engine warms up?
Where is it leaking or hissing from (you gotta get
the engine hot to hear this)? Once you find the
hissing/leaking, you'll find where the problem is. It
is hard to say otherwise. Since it leaks more when
turned off - check the following areas -
1) Water pump area
2) Radiator area
3) heater tap on right side of engine
4) carpet on transmission tunnel on left side under
the dash (if it is wet here, it means your heater
control valve has to be replaced).
The reason why it is leaking out faster after you turn
the motor off is pressure builds up in the water
system after you turn a hot motor off (because the
water sits rather than moving past hot surfaces in the
head and some of the water in various parts of the
engine will start boiling).
Good luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Win Graham <win@gmi.net> wrote:
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am proud to say that I just bought my first
> Healey, a 1963 BJ7. I am
> pretty excited and can't wait to get it on the road.
> The only problem
> is that I can't seem to keep the water in the
> radiator. My father, who
> is slightly more mechanically inclined than myself,
> seems to think that
> the gasket on the water pump is bad. The water
> leaks out a little when
> the motor is running but it leaks much faster when
> the motor stops.
> Does this sounds like it is the water pump or just
> the gasket? At 23
> years old I am probably one of the youngest and
> least experienced
> members of the list and would appreciate any help.
> Also, any tips on
> what the first few things I should concentrate on
> would be very much
> appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Win Graham
> '63 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 04:54:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Subject: Garage floor coating recommendations?
John,
I used a 2 part Sherwin Williams epoxy. You have to etch the floor with
muriatic acid as a prep. Lots of basic colors. My floor is 3.5 years old
now and not even a scratch.. metal wheels from my engin hoist roll on it
occassionally...gets its share of leaking oil from my healey and my Land
Rover (actually the landie is pretty good) ... Brake fluid from my recent
healey work just seemed to clean it.. great stuff.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 08:32:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
<<...but I've
seen plenty of "dogs" with nice, thick undercoat to cover up the lack of
attention to detail under the car.>>
DITTO, Bob. DITTO!
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 08:41:17 -0500
Subject: paint codes
Hi everyone, I am just about ready to paint the XK120 I've been working on
for a friend. He'd like it to be a pale yellow color.. he's not too worried
about originality, he just wants to get it on the road at his point. The
color code I need is for Coronet Cream... I saw the color on the Big Healey
page, and thought this would be the closest to how he'd like it painted.
Anyone know what the code would be?? Thanks
Steve
61 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Kevin Richards <flybirds at erols.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 10:15:24 -0400
Subject: Auto Show October 7th in CT!
At long last, the WEBSITE......
Not using this to generate business, but trying to get the word out
about our car show. I think everyone will enjoy this one. Thanks for
looking, and here is a new website (forgive me, it is in the formative
stages, my first try at a website).
here is is:
http://www.gbspares.com/
Please visit the website and follow the link for info on the British
Autumn Auto Show and Autojumble.
more info here:
Greetings fellow British Car listers. Finally, after a great deal of
organizing
and planning, my friends Gary and Dave have put together the
First Annual British Autumn Car show and Autojumble.
The First British Autumn will take place in Somers, CT and will start
around 10am.
I have enclosed via a link, a copy of the flyer we have made. Please
make its first year a success and come out and visit with your favorite
British car, motorcycle, whatever. Great place to set up a spot to vend
also(please call first to arrange). Get rid of all your garage clutter
to fund that winter British car restoration!
CLICK HERE!
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1088246&a=13653026&p=53761379
Just wanted to let you listers know about it since it is a new show, and
we hope to continue it for years to come. Plenty of activities for the
family and especially the kids. Driving range, miniature golf, etc.
Great food, beautiful cars and an autojumble to boot!
Contact:
Gary Booker at 203 230 9782 or 203 248 9255
Dave Sturtevant at dlsturt@aol.com or 860 763 0371
Thanks
Kevin Richards
1962 MGA in "half way there stage"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 07:45:05 -0600
Subject: Re: paint codes
"Kocik, Stephen W" wrote:
> Hi everyone, I am just about ready to paint the XK120 I've been working on
> for a friend. He'd like it to be a pale yellow color.. he's not too worried
> about originality, he just wants to get it on the road at his point. The
> color code I need is for Coronet Cream... I saw the color on the Big Healey
> page, and thought this would be the closest to how he'd like it painted.
> Anyone know what the code would be?? Thanks
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
>
> Steve, in Don Pikovnik's book, Coronet Cream is listed as ICI Code2583. In
> this book, related to this code, the colour does not look pale yellow. I know
> in Clausager's book it looks pale yellow but on the color swatch in Pikovnik's
> book it doesn't.
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, SK
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Raymond Feehan" <feehanr at home.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 08:50:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
Spending all that time looking under Healeys must give you an awful crick in
the neck. What's an imperfection? How are you so sure they exist underneath
the undercoat? Do you have some kind of psychic power? There could be lots
of reasons why some owners would choose to use undercoat. To generalize by
calling all their cars dogs and suggest that they have a dark purpose for
using it is typical of "concours" fanatics. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed@thebest.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 10:38 PM
Subject: Re: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
>
> Because there's an underlying message here.......the people who use
> undercoat don't take care of their cars like you do, and really use it to
> hide all the imperfections under the car. I've never seen a concours car
> with undercoat on it, unless it came from the factory that way; but I've
> seen plenty of "dogs" with nice, thick undercoat to cover up the lack of
> attention to detail under the car.
>
> Bob
>
> >Again, I ask...why is there a need for undercoating?
> >Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 02:45:57 +1000
Subject: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
Here is my 2 bobs worth,
My BJ8 had a thick black tar paint OVER the original ivory paint 0n the
entire underside. Original - no. Put there by the dealer - probably. It
covered the entire chassis - and was even under the bonnet (the hood for
all my American friends : ) )
Why can I make the bold statement 'Put there by the dealer - probably?'
Because when my 1966 BJ8 was restored in 1998 - due to an unfortunate road
accident - and I spent hours with a blowtorch & scraper removing 20
kilograms of this thick black tar gunk stuff - expecting to find a multitude
of sins - guess what??? On a stripped, sandblasted chassis/ with chemically
dipped panels - there was NO RUST worth mentioning. There were 2 areas on
the sills which required two plates welded - less than 2 inches square. This
was the total extent of the rust repairs on my entire Healey. The entire
floor is original and unpatched/original. Did you know that RHD Healey BJ8s
have their body number stamped into the floor on the (RHD) drivers side
floor - not on the RHD front suspension tower???. Try and find that number
on most RHD Healeys....... And I have photos of the underside of the floor -
under the sealer - and it polished up like brand new (the car didn't need
restoring until I had this fairly major accident....) Would the paint under
the sealer be like brand new if the sealer wasn't put there when the car was
brand new??? And I know the entire history of my BJ8 - see
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
I think the undersealer 'appears' to hide a multitude of sins. Whether it
does - or it doesn't - is irrelevant. It 'looks' like it does. In my case -
the sealer was a godsend. There were no sins hidden. But as soon as my
restorer saw the sealer - he wanted me to remove it personally BEFORE he
would quote (because sandblasting won't remove this gooey crap) - and he
expected me to see first hand how 'rusted' my car was......but it wasn't
rusted at all ........
Did I put a sealer back over the top of the paint when I restored the car?
No. Why? - because it didn't need it - not with modern paints, a garaged
lifestyle, a fanatical owner, and a generally sheltered life. It gets driven
on the road - and driven heaps harder on the track. But it doesn't get left
out in the rain for months on end (or even hours.....)
Besides - based on this thread - I'd probably lose more concours points for
having underseal than I would for having 3 webers and a rollbar and roller
rockers and a straight cut, close ratio gearbox and a 22mmm rose jointed
swaybar and cosworth forged pistons and a side ehaust and minlite wheels and
lowered spriongs and 3.5 degrees negative camber and .......
Just enjoy it : ) I do.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 09:51:31 -0700
Subject: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
At the risk of digging this one up again, maybe they should start deducting
concours points for use of silicone brake fluid too! I don't recall that
being original in the early 60's:-}
dp
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Formosinho Sanchez" <mfs.emparque at mail.telepac.pt>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 16:54:23 +0100
Subject: BN1 left hand drive wiring
I need the team help your help for the following:
I am fitting a new wiring loom to my left hand drive 1955 BN1.
1- Batery earth cable. It starts at the master switch and connects at which
point of the body?
2- Overdrive wiring loom. Which is the correct route (way?) for the wiring to
pass from the double relays to the gear box?
Thanks and regards
Manuel Sanchez
58 Frog
55 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 13:00:22 -0500
Subject: Paint codes
Thanks for all the replies... I checked the web page Ed referred to
http://www.coloramic.com/britcars.htm and found some original Jag colors..
I think I'm going to go with the Pale Primrose... yellow, but not too
yellow.... thanks to everyone again...
Steve
61BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 14:29:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
Raymond Feehan wrote:
> Spending all that time looking under Healeys must give you an awful crick in
> the neck. What's an imperfection? How are you so sure they exist underneath
> the undercoat? Do you have some kind of psychic power? There could be lots
> of reasons why some owners would choose to use undercoat. To generalize by
> calling all their cars dogs and suggest that they have a dark purpose for
> using it is typical of "concours" fanatics.
I wouldn't characterize that opinion as fair, Ray. Most folks bad mouth the
Concours effort mostly because they don't understand it. Simply, it's for the
best effort toward a factory original car. If you like wide wheels and tires,
candy apple paint, and other "personal" favorites, good for you! It's your car
and do w/ it what you will. If a car came from the factory w/ no undercoat,
then
you use no undercoat in a Concours effort. No dark purpose, no magic, and no
hocus pocus.
Also toward individual fairness, I have a Bugeye Concours contender and a '67 MG
V8 w/ wide wheels, dual exhaust, and a wide stripe down the middle. There are
many other modifications but I will not bore the masses here. The point is that
there is something for everyone and is no "dark purpose. "Fanatics"? Yes, you
got us there.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RanBullard at Clearchannel.com
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 17:14:40 -0400
Subject: undercoating, undercoating, undercoating, arrrghh!
Does anyone know why these undercoating messages appear over and over and
over on the list? Is anyone else having this problem?
Ran Bullard
'67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Dwight Patten [mailto:pattend@nortelnetworks.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 5:24
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Undercoating rebuttal
he penalty for undercoating is pretty significant. Any part that can't be
evaluated for originality and condition is deducted as if it weren't
present.
And undercoating generally makes it impossible to determine the condition of
the part while frequently making it difficult to determine the originality
of
the part (e.g. is it metal or fiberglass). Without looking at the score
sheets, I believe it's safe to say that an undercoated car that is otherwise
absolutely perfect could not score well enough to make gold.
I somewhat disagree. The undercoating of yesteryear was not not nearly as
good as today's 3M products. It's like cheap paint. It only looks good for
a short time. If the frame is prepped well, undercoating should last as
long or longer than any painted frame. Why do you think all of us are
spending big money rebuilding all these frames on our cars? Look at other
non-British 30-40 yr old frames. You may not see the extensive damage so
common on Healey's. Undercoating got a bad name when PO's used it to cover
up ugly or rusty areas. I'll let you know in about 10 years how I made out.
dp
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 17:18:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
> Raymond Feehan wrote:
>
> > Spending all that time looking under Healeys must give you an awful
crick in
> > the neck. What's an imperfection? How are you so sure they exist
underneath
> > the undercoat? Do you have some kind of psychic power? There could be
lots
> > of reasons why some owners would choose to use undercoat. To generalize
by
> > calling all their cars dogs and suggest that they have a dark purpose
for
> > using it is typical of "concours" fanatics.
Ray,
The point I was trying to make before you threw me into the "concours
fanatic" category, is simply the fact that if a fellow doing a complete
restoration today is trying to decide whether he should undercoat his
freshly restored car or not, he really probably doesn't need to.
I couldn't care less if the owner intends to have the car judged or not. The
decision hopefully would be weighted toward what would be best for the car.
I also tried to point out the fact that the car likely won't be subjected to
a corrosive environment, and that if rain water, splashes, road tar and
common dirt are the only things it will be exposed to, a smooth painted
surface is a whole lot easier to keep clean than one which has undecoat
applied.
The care of the underside every six months or so is a small price to pay for
the overall maintenance of a DRIVEN car. The job doesn't tend to cause a
crick in the neck if the car's properly and safely supported on 4 axle
stands on a smooth floor, and I can lie flat on my back on a comfortable
creeper with a good trouble light.
While there, the checking and tightening of shock mounts, the inpection of
all the fuel, and hydraulic lines and wire harness, exhaust system, yadda,
yadda, yadda...you hopefully get the point.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 17:32:31 EDT
Subject: Re: paint codes
In a message dated 9/26/01 6:43:48 AM, Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com writes:
<< He'd like it to be a pale yellow color.. he's not too worried
about originality, he just wants to get it on the road at his point. The
color code I need is for Coronet Cream... I saw the color on the Big Healey
page, and thought this would be the closest to how he'd like it painted. >>
Are you sure that's what you want to do. Looking at the paint chip in the
Pikovnik book to refresh my memory, Coronet Cream is in fact a sort of light
brown. Wouldn't even call it beige and certainly wouldn't call it pale
yellow. There's a picture of one to which the light is quite kind in
Clausager's book on page 8.
My thought is you would be better off with primrose and maybe lighten it a
little bit if he really wants pale yellow.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 17:45:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
In a message dated 9/26/01 2:30:06 PM, richchrysler@quickclic.net writes:
<< The point I was trying to make before you threw me into the "concours
fanatic" category, is simply the fact that if a fellow doing a complete
restoration today is trying to decide whether he should undercoat his
freshly restored car or not, he really probably doesn't need to. >>
To take this discussion back to one of its original points: in the ten years
that I've been hanging out at auto auctions, I've overheard folks say many
times -- "Wonder what's under that undercoat?" as they cluck their tongues
(or however that tsk tsk sound is made). An undercoated car might be just
fine, or the coating might be hiding a multitude of sins. The buyer just
doesn't know, and when he doesn't, he adjusts his bid downward. Just a
practical aspect to the car restoration business. You never know when you
might have to sell the car, and a clean, clear paint job just makes it easier
to get the value the car is worth.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dan Tiedge" <dtiedge at aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 18:17:24 -0400
Subject: Richard Chrysler Contact Info
I'm looking at a BN2 that was restored in the 1988-1989 time frame by
Weiler's Nostalgic Motorworks, located in southern Virginia (I believe
Norfolk). It was an M-conversion restoration, which was undertaken for a
gentleman in Michigan. The car is still in this gentleman's family today.
I am told by the seller that Richard Chrysler inspected the car as the work
was completed.
The car is BRG over OEW, with a black interior.
Richard, if you see this message, I would like to speak with you about this
car. If anyone else on the list has more direct contact information for
Richard (phone, e-mail, etc.), I would appreciate it if you would forward
same.
Thanks in advance.
Daniel C. Tiedge
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 18:48:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
Ray Feehan writes:
> using it is typical of "concours" fanatics.
I don't understand where anyone gets off calling another a fanatic. If one
wants to engage in cooncours then he plays by the agreed-upon rules. Working
to a 100% standard is not fanatical, it is simply the standard that one who
CHOOSES to participate agrees to be bound by. For those of us who are not
involved in this aspect of Healey ownership it is a non-issue. Ray, if you
can't stand the heat then stay out of the footwell....
Michael Oritt
100 Le Mans (driver)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bonas420 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 19:10:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Square Body & Bugeye Etc...
Toby
If you search a few Healey bools, pertaining to SPrites (i can''t think of
the title right now) You will see the 1st square body prototype with a bugeye
rear end.
happy healeying
nathan bennett
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 19:19:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
Rich Chrysler wrote and quoted as follows:
<<> Raymond Feehan wrote:
Spending all that time looking under Healeys must give you an awful crick in
the neck. What's an imperfection? >>
Something that exists on ALL cars, Ray!!
<<How are you so sure they exist
underneath the undercoat? >>
Because, Rich (as I on a lesser scale) has (have)
some "experience" is looking at our cars.
<<Do you have some kind of psychic power?>>
Nope. EXPERIENCE, Ray. Taking the TIME to look!!
Being INTERESTED!!
<< There could be lots of reasons why some owners would choose to use
undercoat. >>
Give me ONE!! I have been caught in snowstorms on my last two trips from
Chi to DC. On return do you actually think I just "parked and forgot"
Hortense?? NOPE.
<<To generalize by calling all their cars dogs and suggest that they have a
dark purpose for using it is typical of "concours" fanatics.>>
Huh?? You "actually" mean that someone that is trying to return their car
to "...as it left the factory..." is nuts??
If so, then why even "bother" to maintain the car?? Just drive it into the
ground and dump whats left!!
And then Rich wrote:
<<The point I was trying to make before you threw me into the "concours
fanatic" category, is simply the fact that if a fellow doing a complete
restoration today is trying to decide whether he should undercoat his
freshly restored car or not, he really probably doesn't need to.>>
Yep.
<<I couldn't care less if the owner intends to have the car judged or not.
The
decision hopefully would be weighted toward what would be best for the car.
I also tried to point out the fact that the car likely won't be subjected to
a corrosive environment, and that if rain water, splashes, road tar and
common dirt are the only things it will be exposed to, a smooth painted
surface is a whole lot easier to keep clean than one which has undercoat
applied.>>
WAY yep!
<<The care of the underside every six months or so is a small price to pay
for
the overall maintenance of a DRIVEN car. >>
Aaaah, but here Rich, it is quite apparent most Listers have NO CLUE that
you (as I would) jump into a brand new resto and DRIVE 1000 miles or so!!
<<The job doesn't tend to cause a
crick in the neck if the car's properly and safely supported on 4 axle
stands on a smooth floor, and I can lie flat on my back on a comfortable
creeper with a good trouble light.
While there, the checking and tightening of shock mounts, the inspection of
all the fuel, and hydraulic lines and wire harness, exhaust system, yadda,
yadda, yadda...>>
Oooops, Rich, you are asking (suggesting??<G>) Ray actually do some
WORK?!?!?!?! LMAO!!
<<...you hopefully get the point.>>
Not a chance, which IS too bad!!!! You and I (and LOTS of others) will have
our Healeys LONG after Rayfixitdriveit feehan's car has gone to Healey
Heaven.
Shame.
Regards..........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI chapter-AHCA
Member. AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Hinsdale, IL
www.justbrits.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 18:44:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
Hi Rich
If you wish to protect the car, especially if you live in
portions of North America where salt (in it's various
permutations in used) and you wish to be on the road early in the
spring, then the best solution, is to use the old British
compound waxoil. It should not impact on judging because it does
not have the same qualities as the asphalt described earlier -
although you may wish to enlighten on this later point.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
Rich C wrote:
>
> > Raymond Feehan wrote:
> >
> > > Spending all that time looking under Healeys must give you an awful
> crick in
> > > the neck. What's an imperfection? How are you so sure they exist
> underneath
> > > the undercoat? Do you have some kind of psychic power? There could be
> lots
> > > of reasons why some owners would choose to use undercoat. To generalize
> by
> > > calling all their cars dogs and suggest that they have a dark purpose
> for
> > > using it is typical of "concours" fanatics.
>
> Ray,
> The point I was trying to make before you threw me into the "concours
> fanatic" category, is simply the fact that if a fellow doing a complete
> restoration today is trying to decide whether he should undercoat his
> freshly restored car or not, he really probably doesn't need to.
> I couldn't care less if the owner intends to have the car judged or not. The
> decision hopefully would be weighted toward what would be best for the car.
> I also tried to point out the fact that the car likely won't be subjected to
> a corrosive environment, and that if rain water, splashes, road tar and
> common dirt are the only things it will be exposed to, a smooth painted
> surface is a whole lot easier to keep clean than one which has undecoat
> applied.
> The care of the underside every six months or so is a small price to pay for
> the overall maintenance of a DRIVEN car. The job doesn't tend to cause a
> crick in the neck if the car's properly and safely supported on 4 axle
> stands on a smooth floor, and I can lie flat on my back on a comfortable
> creeper with a good trouble light.
> While there, the checking and tightening of shock mounts, the inpection of
> all the fuel, and hydraulic lines and wire harness, exhaust system, yadda,
> yadda, yadda...you hopefully get the point.
> Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From carterh <carterh at exis.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 21:14:04 -0400
Subject: Oil Mix
I'm using straight 30 Weight Oil. But, sometimes find that all I have to
replenish low levels is with whatever I have handy. Sometimes that may be a
quart or so of 10x30. Will mixing the two weights have any harmful effects?
Using the same brand.
Anyone know?
Hal C.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 11:51:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Notes on Smitty 5-speed install BN(T)6&7 available
Steve,
I recently pulled out my engine for a complete
rebuild. I found that the transmission input shaft
was wearing against the inside of the pilot ball
bearing (spinning in the inside race). Since the
bearing race is harder than the input shaft the shaft
is looser here.
I am considering having a bronze bearing made...
Any experiences here?
Dean
BN7 Smitty 5-sp
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
>
> Hello Listers.
> These notes are available for future installers of
> the Smitty 5-speed kit.
> See www.jamesfwerner.com
>
> Keywords: 5-speed 5-spd Smitty Toyota
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 22:18:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Undercoating Vs. Concours judges
Nope!.......Most folks bad mouth the concours effort because of jealousy,
pure and simple! You can sugarcoat it all you want, but I've observed the
facial expressions of people at car shows who bad mouth beautiful concours
restorations, and those are looks of envy, not disdain. Let's face it,
anybody can do the typical amateur restoration on a car, where you do a
little home sanding, use lots of wrong parts, leave sand marks under the
final paint coat, and don't detail too much of anything; but to get it to
concours condition requires more patience in all aspects of the restoration,
more knowledge about the car, and a willingness to spend some time
researching. Cost-wise, it's really not that much more to do a concours
restoration than an amateurish one. The difference is in the time spent to
"get it right".
Bob
>Most folks bad mouth the
>Concours effort mostly because they don't understand it. Simply, it's for
the
>best effort toward a factory original car.
>Larry Dickstein
>Lone Jack, MO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 19:51:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Mix
Hal,
In all my reading, research and "hangar talk" regarding oils--both automotive
and aviation--it's
always been said that mixing viscosities is not a good idea. Don't know the
definitive reason, but
SUSPECT it has to do with the fact that oils are carefully blended to achieve
correct viscosity
for the mission and mixing viscosities would create undesirable results.
Multi-vis oils start with
a lower viscosity base (e.g. 7W oil for a 10W-30) and add viscosity improvers
to achieve the
higher viscosity at temperature. These may not react well with a much higher
base viscosity
oil; e.g. 30W.
In a pinch, though, I think it would be better to mix viscosities than to run
really low on oil,
just change it out ASAP. Mixing different brands of the same viscosity is
supposed to be OK.
You can, however, use any brand or viscosity for undercoating :)
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> I'm using straight 30 Weight Oil. But, sometimes find that all I have to
>replenish low levels is with whatever I have
handy. Sometimes that may be a quart or so of 10x30. Will mixing the two
weights have any harmful effects? Using the
same brand.
>
> Anyone know?
>
> Hal C.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 20:48:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Mix
At 07:51 PM 9/26/2001, you wrote:
> Mixing different brands of the same viscosity is supposed to be OK.
-------------------
That's the opposite of what I'd heard Bob. As told to me, the different
mfgrs. use different base stock formulations, so it's supposed to be less
wrong to mix viscosities from the same vendor, but cross vendor was the
no-no. No definitive references to point to, maybe I can check with SAE.
Bill Katz
Bay Area, CA
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 21:58:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Mix
Did a Google search and could only come up with the following, from
theoilstore.com:
14. Can we mix oils of the same specifications, but different brands ?
We never encourage mixing, but then you are questioning formulators.
The problem could be negative interaction between the additive systems
in the oils. It is unlikely and we've all mixed engine oils. However, we don't
recommend mixing unless we have tested that they are compatible. For example,
if you mix hydraulic oils of the same specifications, you have to be very
careful
that the resulting mixture doesn't interact and cause filter blocking,
particularly
when a little bit of condensation gets into the system. If you really want to
mix
products, consult the oil manufacturer directly and ask for their advice.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> At 07:51 PM 9/26/2001, you wrote:
> > Mixing different brands of the same viscosity is supposed to be OK.
> -------------------
> That's the opposite of what I'd heard Bob. As told to me, the different
> mfgrs. use different base stock formulations, so it's supposed to be less
> wrong to mix viscosities from the same vendor, but cross vendor was the
> no-no. No definitive references to point to, maybe I can check with SAE.
>
>
> Bill Katz
> Bay Area, CA
> '67 BJ8
> '94 325is
> http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 23:45:33 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 left hand drive wiring
Formosinho,
1. There is a nut welded onto the left hand rear shock mount. This is where the
ground strap attaches. If it is gone I suppose any place you can put it under a
nut or bolt head will also work.
2. If you are going for Concours this may not be correct, but on my car the
overdrive harness runs from the relays out into the engine compartment through a
hole (5/8"?) with a grommet. It then runs down and past the steering column and
follows the firewall down to the bellhousing. I have it attached to the
bellhousing with a clip on one of the fixing bolts and to the side cover through
one of those fixing bolts and then the wires separate and go to the individual
components. I didn't have any plan to work from so just tried to run and attach
it in a workmanlike manner. My apologies to the committee.
Bill Lawrence.
53 BN1
Formosinho Sanchez wrote:
> I need the team help your help for the following:
> I am fitting a new wiring loom to my left hand drive 1955 BN1.
> 1- Batery earth cable. It starts at the master switch and connects at which
> point of the body?
> 2- Overdrive wiring loom. Which is the correct route (way?) for the wiring to
> pass from the double relays to the gear box?
> Thanks and regards
> Manuel Sanchez
> 58 Frog
> 55 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 23:27:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Mix
Bob;
What brand and weight do you recommend for undercoating.?
Ron
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Hal,
>
> In all my reading, research and "hangar talk" regarding oils--both automotive
>and aviation--it's
> always been said that mixing viscosities is not a good idea. Don't know the
>definitive reason, but
> SUSPECT it has to do with the fact that oils are carefully blended to achieve
>correct viscosity
> for the mission and mixing viscosities would create undesirable results.
>Multi-vis oils start with
> a lower viscosity base (e.g. 7W oil for a 10W-30) and add viscosity improvers
>to achieve the
> higher viscosity at temperature. These may not react well with a much higher
>base viscosity
> oil; e.g. 30W.
>
> In a pinch, though, I think it would be better to mix viscosities than to run
>really low on oil,
> just change it out ASAP. Mixing different brands of the same viscosity is
>supposed to be OK.
>
> You can, however, use any brand or viscosity for undercoating :)
>
> Bob
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell
>bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.
>robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
>PP/ASEL
> ***********************************************************************
>
> >
> > I'm using straight 30 Weight Oil. But, sometimes find that all I have to
>replenish low levels is with whatever I have
> handy. Sometimes that may be a quart or so of 10x30. Will mixing the two
>weights have any harmful effects? Using the
> same brand.
> >
> > Anyone know?
> >
> > Hal C.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 01:14:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Oil Mix
Hal -
As long as you aren't doing any heavy duty racing or
alot of long distance driving, you should be fairly
safe mixing oils and brands. In general, however, it
is best to stick with the same brand and weight, but
if its an emergency or there's no oil around, any
motor oil should be ok (better than running without
it). I would still encourage you not to make it a
standard practice.
What you should NEVER mix, however, is antifreeze
brands. Maybe that's what is confusing people.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- carterh <carterh@exis.net> wrote:
>
> I'm using straight 30 Weight Oil. But, sometimes
> find that all I have to replenish low levels is with
> whatever I have handy. Sometimes that may be a
> quart or so of 10x30. Will mixing the two weights
> have any harmful effects? Using the same brand.
>
> Anyone know?
>
> Hal C.
Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone.
http://phone.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 07:04:22 -0500
Subject: Concours
Bob wrote:
>Nope!.......Most folks bad mouth the concours effort because of jealousy,
pure and simple! You can sugarcoat it all you want, but I've observed the
facial expressions of people at car shows who bad mouth beautiful concours
restorations, and those are looks of envy, not disdain. Let's face it,
anybody can do the typical amateur restoration on a car, where you do a
little home sanding, use lots of wrong parts, leave sand marks under the
final paint coat, and don't detail too much of anything; but to get it to
concours condition requires more patience in all aspects of the restoration,
more knowledge about the car, and a willingness to spend some time
researching. Cost-wise, it's really not that much more to do a concours
restoration than an amateurish one. The difference is in the time spent to
"get it right".<
Bob you are right about the envy. I certainly would love to own a concours
car. You are wrong, however, about the expense.
There are those of us who are not mechanically inclined, have two left
thumbs, etc. I am one of those. I spent a lifetime sitting behind a desk.
Now that I am retired I do not have the money to hire someone to restore my
car to a "concours" condition. I do the best I can with what I have for
resources. I'm sure I've used phillips screws where positraction should be.
My paint job is not the best in the world. My car runs good, however, and
leaks oil like a true Healey. I whittled the top wooden bow from two by
fours glued together. I made the top holder cups from galvanized sheet
metal and poplar wood. I made the straps from 1/8" x 1" flat stock. I had
to sew my top where the mice chewed through it.
If I had the money to reallly do the job right I probably still wouldn't
have a concours car because then I would not have all of the hours of loving
care I've put into it.
As I've said before, I wouldn't know concours from a golf course, but I know
MY car, inside and out, backwards and forwards.
To ME that's all that matters.
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Raymond Feehan" <feehanr at home.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 07:24:09 -0600
Subject: concours
The only way to get a 39 year old car to look "factory original" is to farm it
out to a Resto shop, cut a blank check and wait. They then proceed to remove
perfectly good, serviceable parts, discard them and replace them with nos or
repro parts. How do I know? I've bought several boxes of discarded parts off
E-Bay from someones restoration. And now you have the same guy who's bending
his neck to look under cars to check for undercoating, checking people's faces
as they look at restored Healeys to see if they're jealous. Get a life boy.
I'm not jealous of restored cars I'm just appreciative if the owner did most
of the work. And then you have the whiners who moan about the poor quality of
repro parts. Gee I would have been better off keeping my "ORIGINAL" bumper and
having it rechromed. A 39 year old car gathers history along the way and this
should be reflected in the way it looks. And yes Ed I haven't worked on my car
for quite a while, my daughter's life got in the way, but if and when it gets
back on the road I'll have done the work myself, amateurishly.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "RONALD SOMERS" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 00:08:31 -0700
Subject: Shock absorbers
Some time ago I received a very nice reply from a shock absorber
reconditioner specialist located, I think, somewhere in Wisconsin. Finally,
I have the SAs
ready to ship but, alas, I also just changed computers (all the better to
read the list) and crashed my old address book in a foiled attempt to
transfer data to the new computer. Can anyone on the list direct me to this
well-known and capable supplier? TIA. BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Warrenberg at aol.com
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 12:06:19 EDT
Subject: Dwell on dwell please (help!)
Even though I can take a 3000 apart blind folded I have never messed with the
carbs and timing. In my younger days in Vancouver, Canada even experienced
mechanics often had my 68 MGB-GT running worse when they were done than when
I brought it in. So here I am trying to tune up my 61 BT7 and having fun.
But what is "dwell" and how do you adjust it on a Healey? And any other
advice on timing it after I get the dwell right is welcome. I do have a
dwell meter (purchased when i bought the car in 83).
Thanks in advance
Ignorant in Santa Fe, New Mexico
Warren Berg
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 09:27:27 -0700
Subject: RE: Dwell meters
Warren,
Dwell relates to the point gap. On old GM cars, a dwell meter was useful
because there was a little window in the distributor for access to a allen
screw that could adjust the gap while the engine was running. So you hooked
up your dwell meter and adjusted the points. With the Healey, if you have
the dwell figure available, you can hook up your meter as a final check that
you have set the points gap right.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 11:55:19 -0500
Subject: RE: Dwell meters
I'm interested in this as well... What is the proper way to hook up a dwell
meter on a positive ground car?
Thanks
Steve
61 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 12:27 PM
To: 'Warrenberg@aol.com'
Cc: 'healeys'
Subject: RE: Dwell meters
>> you can hook up your meter as a final check that
>>you have set the points gap right.
>>Ken Freese
>>65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From oil drip <ahoildrip at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 10:24:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Facial expressions....
I haven't noticed many "looks of envy". However I
have seen numerous disturbing looks of superiority and
pompous arrogance.
These things are difficult to quantify, but it seems
that the facial expressions of someone who just got
his hands dirty fixing his own car outshine those of
anyone signing a checkbook.
Personally the facial expression I most enjoy is the
one I see in my mirror while Im zipping around in my
rough, but thoroughly enjoyable, street BJ8.
Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone.
http://phone.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Wood Jr" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 13:45:28 -0400
Subject: Owning a Healey
I am amazed everytime I "tune in " the Chat Group for all us Healey owners.
Just enjoy your cars and spend less time either criticizing others or
justifying what you are doing.
The Jackie Cooper 100S I was fortunate enough to find, own, restore, drive,
and sell was a love of labor for me. I found it on the street in Brooklyn
for $1500.00, searched out various parts it needed by myself, took it all
apart getting my hands dirty to learn about the car itself and also because
I didn't have the bucks, with two kids going away to school, wrote one check
to Tom Kovacs for $42,000 for the total restoration of the car, drove it
many miles for the extreme pleasure of it all, showed it at Talledaga when
Donald Healey was inducted into the Hall of Fame, and sold it reluctantly to
a fellow in Italy who couldn't live without it for money (I never saw a
dollar) sent from Switzerland to England to buy a Ford GT40 shipped to me
BOAC to Boston.
You all can argue about undercoating or not, what flavor oil to use, the
color shades of British Racing Green, and anything else that you think of,
but after it is all over, please be able to look at that mirror and decide
that you yourself have enjoyed your car to the fullest. I have.
Best regards to all
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 10:55:47 -0700
Subject: Off topic/Volvo 164 heater valve
Does someone have access to a Volvo 164 to take a picture or have an
illustration of the heater valve?
Thanks,
Ken Freese
74 Jensen Interceptor with a Pontiac heater valve
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 12:05:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Dwell on dwell please (help!)
Warren,
Dwell is the time that the coil has to charge between firing as measured
by distributor cam degrees. More cylinders equals more degrees (time) else
the points will over heat and burn.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: <Warrenberg@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 10:06 AM
Subject: Dwell on dwell please (help!)
>
> Even though I can take a 3000 apart blind folded I have never messed with
the
> carbs and timing. In my younger days in Vancouver, Canada even
experienced
> mechanics often had my 68 MGB-GT running worse when they were done than
when
> I brought it in. So here I am trying to tune up my 61 BT7 and having fun.
> But what is "dwell" and how do you adjust it on a Healey? And any other
> advice on timing it after I get the dwell right is welcome. I do have a
> dwell meter (purchased when i bought the car in 83).
>
> Thanks in advance
> Ignorant in Santa Fe, New Mexico
> Warren Berg
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Joe at Farley.net
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 11:28:32 -0700
Subject: RE: Dwell on dwell please (help!)
Warren,
There is a fairly good discussion of dwell at this site:
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/MG_Elec-Tech/body_timing.html
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Warrenberg@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 10:06 AM
> Subject: Dwell on dwell please (help!)
>
>
>
> Even though I can take a 3000 apart blind folded I have never
> messed with
> the
> carbs and timing. In my younger days in Vancouver, Canada even
> experienced
> mechanics often had my 68 MGB-GT running worse when they were done than
> when
> I brought it in. So here I am trying to tune up my 61 BT7 and
> having fun.
> But what is "dwell" and how do you adjust it on a Healey? And any other
> advice on timing it after I get the dwell right is welcome. I do have a
> dwell meter (purchased when i bought the car in 83).
>
> Thanks in advance
> Ignorant in Santa Fe, New Mexico
> Warren Berg
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 15:03:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Dwell on dwell please (help!)
I just went into the site noted below and found it to be a wealth of general
information although it is a MG site. Is there anything comparable to this
devoted to Healeys?????????
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Joe@Farley.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 2:28 PM
Subject: RE: Dwell on dwell please (help!)
>
> Warren,
> There is a fairly good discussion of dwell at this site:
>
> http://www.mgcars.org.uk/MG_Elec-Tech/body_timing.html
>
>
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Warrenberg@aol.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 10:06 AM
> > Subject: Dwell on dwell please (help!)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 14:23:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Dwell on dwell please (help!)
Warren:
There have been some good explanations to your questions on dwell but no
one told you what the spec is. For the 3000 engine the dwell spec is 35
degrees +/- 3 degrees. Try to stay on the high side of the spec. Shoot
for 38 on the initial setting. The dwell will reduce as the points wear.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 15:22:28 -0400
Subject: RE: Owning a Healey
Healeyers:
Great note from William Wood. I've owned my BJ7 since 1978 when as a
foolish young lad, I sold my restored 65 Mustang and bought what was a bad
Austin Healey parts car. Only I could see its potential. Accumulated the
parts from junk yards (remember those?) and got it spruced up and running.
Dated my girlfriend in it, and drove it away from my wedding with her.
I've torn it down and am re-assembling it again for as good a restoration as
I can do by myself. Before this most recent tear-down, I figured I had put
10 hours under the hood for every hour of driving. I've been working on
cars in most of my spare minutes since I was 15, and still, given the choice
of how to spend my time, I usually choose being in the garage with a wrench
in hand, a pinch between cheek and gum, and the ball game on the radio.
I love everything about British cars, warts and all, and wouldn't trade the
Healey for 2001 Porsche. But then, I'm not a rational man.
I think we should sweat the details on restorations, but don't sweat the
different opinions. What makes a car meet fun is to see everyone's
different interpretations of how the cars should be rebuilt, from fully
original to full race. If you want to see cars all the same, you can see
them at the dealers.
I especially appreciate the concours judges and the time they spend setting
a standard and updating it and judging our cars, not for the money, but for
the love of the car. Why would one argue with someone who gives you free,
good advice?
What a great email list!
Ryan
64 BJ7
79 XJ6
01 PT Cruiser
-----Original Message-----
From: William Wood Jr [mailto:healeybill@worldnet.att.net]
Just enjoy your cars and spend less time either criticizing others or
justifying what you are doing.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 15:28:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Dwell on dwell please (help!)
Warren,
Some suggestions on dwell adjustment: the spec for 6 cylinder Healeys is
35 degrees on the 6 cylinder scale -- make sure the meter is set for the
correct number of cylinders. If the car is capable of running, fit the
dwell leads (positive to ground and negative to the distributor low tension
lead
on positive ground cars, the opposite for negative ground) and check the
dwell with the motor on, making a note of the reading. Then remove the
distributor cap, disconnect the fuel pump, and crank the engine with the
ignition on, and record that reading. This will reveal any difference in
the
dwell that the cap may make.
Early model points are adjusted by means of a screwdriver blade in the
slotted offset on the breaker plate that indexes into a hole in the points
base.
Twisting the offset alters the point gap. Start by installing the points
with
the screws snug, but loose enough to let the gap change. Then with the
meter connected, ignition on, and fuel pump and cap off, crank the motor
with a screwdriver in the offset adjuster and twist the adjuster until the
correct 35 degree reading is shown. Tighten the screws so the gap can't
change, refit the cap, hook up the fuel pump, and start. Check the dwell.
If it is correct you are OK. If it is not on 35 degrees, remove the cap and
disable the pump, then crank again and note the reading. The difference
between the running reading and 35 degrees is the amount you must add
to (or subtract from) the cap-off reading. Once you make this adjustment
the dwell should be correct with the motor on. If so, final torque the two
screws holding the points down.
At this stage you can adjust the timing, most easily done with a timing
light that has a degree wheel. After setting the timing re-check the dwell
angle
and adjust if necessary. Cars tend to GAIN dwell as the points wear, so
a setting of 34 degrees will last longer than one set at 35 degrees. Also,
a
dwell meter is a great tool for diagnosing distributor wear, in that the
dwell
should be the same over the entire RPM range. If you see any varation
greater than 1.5 degrees between idle and good throttle, or if the dwell
meter needle flutters constantly without ever settling on one value, it's a
good indication that your distributor is out to lunch.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <Warrenberg@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 12:06 PM
Subject: Dwell on dwell please (help!)
>
> Even though I can take a 3000 apart blind folded I have never messed with
the
> carbs and timing. In my younger days in Vancouver, Canada even
experienced
> mechanics often had my 68 MGB-GT running worse when they were done than
when
> I brought it in. So here I am trying to tune up my 61 BT7 and having fun.
> But what is "dwell" and how do you adjust it on a Healey? And any other
> advice on timing it after I get the dwell right is welcome. I do have a
> dwell meter (purchased when i bought the car in 83).
>
> Thanks in advance
> Ignorant in Santa Fe, New Mexico
> Warren Berg
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 12:56:14 -0700
Subject: tire wear info
Hi all,
I recall a thread recently about tire wear patterns and possible
suspension/alignment/balancing causes. I was looking for a link to or
copy of the info but the listquest archives seem to be down again. Any
help greatly appreciated.
-John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 16:37:46 -0400
Subject: RE: Dwell meters
Just reverse the leads from the way you would connect to
a negative ground car. Negative (black on mine) goes to
the coil terminal where the wire from the points connects.
The positive lead (red) goes to any convenient ground.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Kocik, Stephen W
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 12:55 PM
To: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com; 'Warrenberg@aol.com'
Cc: 'healeys'
Subject: RE: Dwell meters
I'm interested in this as well... What is the proper way to hook up a dwell
meter on a positive ground car?
Thanks
Steve
61 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 12:27 PM
To: 'Warrenberg@aol.com'
Cc: 'healeys'
Subject: RE: Dwell meters
>> you can hook up your meter as a final check that
>>you have set the points gap right.
>>Ken Freese
>>65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 16:37:22 -0400
Subject: Re: tire wear info
Hi, John -
During the recent thread, it was argued by some people that excessive toe
OUT on the front wheels will wear out the outer (outboard) edges of the
front tires, and conversely excessive toe IN will wear out the inner edges.
This seemed just the opposite of what was logical to me, but I held my two
cents until I actually experienced the problem just a couple weeks ago. Due
to severe wear on the outer edges of my front tires (discovered in the
middle of a 1400-mile round trip), I had the alignment checked and adjusted.
My tires were toed IN an inch (supposed to be 1/16 - 1/8 on a BJ8).
So, excessive toe-in will wear out the outer edges first. The caster and
camber are fixed unless the car is damaged, so toe-in is the only alignment
adjustment normally done on the front end.
My two cents.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 3:56 PM
Subject: tire wear info
>
> Hi all,
>
> I recall a thread recently about tire wear patterns and possible
> suspension/alignment/balancing causes. I was looking for a link to or
> copy of the info but the listquest archives seem to be down again. Any
> help greatly appreciated.
>
> -John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 18:05:23 -0400
Subject: Re: concours
Hmmmm..........me thinks he doth protest too much!......must have hit a
nerve! Checkmate!
Bob
>
>The only way to get a 39 year old car to look "factory original" is to farm
it
>out to a Resto shop, cut a blank check and wait. They then proceed to
remove
>perfectly good, serviceable parts, discard them and replace them with nos
or
>repro parts. How do I know? I've bought several boxes of discarded parts
off
>E-Bay from someones restoration. And now you have the same guy who's
bending
>his neck to look under cars to check for undercoating, checking people's
faces
>as they look at restored Healeys to see if they're jealous. Get a life boy.
>I'm not jealous of restored cars I'm just appreciative if the owner did
most
>of the work. And then you have the whiners who moan about the poor quality
of
>repro parts. Gee I would have been better off keeping my "ORIGINAL" bumper
and
>having it rechromed. A 39 year old car gathers history along the way and
this
>should be reflected in the way it looks. And yes Ed I haven't worked on my
car
>for quite a while, my daughter's life got in the way, but if and when it
gets
>back on the road I'll have done the work myself, amateurishly.
>RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 18:23:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Owning a Healey
You're missing the point, though, which is that some people CAN'T enjoy
their cars, because they haven't put an appropriate amount of effort into
them to be proud to drive them. It's a lot easier for them to rationalize
their laziness by picking fault with the well-restored cars. Some people DO
love their cars, even if they're not perfect restorations, but these are not
the same people who pick fault with the concours cars.......Just an educated
observation.
Bob
>
>I am amazed everytime I "tune in " the Chat Group for all us Healey owners.
>
>Just enjoy your cars and spend less time either criticizing others or
>justifying what you are doing.
>
>Best regards to all
>
>Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 17:51:44 -0500
Subject: Re: tire wear info
histeve,
that 1/16 to 1/8 spec was for bias ply tires. my prediction is your tires will
continue to wear if you are running radials. i've always run zero with radials
and experienced no wear other than normal uniform wear due to mileage.
happy healeying,
jerry
Steve Byers wrote:
>
>
> Hi, John -
> During the recent thread, it was argued by some people that excessive toe
> OUT on the front wheels will wear out the outer (outboard) edges of the
> front tires, and conversely excessive toe IN will wear out the inner edges.
> This seemed just the opposite of what was logical to me, but I held my two
> cents until I actually experienced the problem just a couple weeks ago. Due
> to severe wear on the outer edges of my front tires (discovered in the
> middle of a 1400-mile round trip), I had the alignment checked and adjusted.
> My tires were toed IN an inch (supposed to be 1/16 - 1/8 on a BJ8).
>
> So, excessive toe-in will wear out the outer edges first. The caster and
> camber are fixed unless the car is damaged, so toe-in is the only alignment
> adjustment normally done on the front end.
>
> My two cents.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@home.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 3:56 PM
> Subject: tire wear info
>
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I recall a thread recently about tire wear patterns and possible
> > suspension/alignment/balancing causes. I was looking for a link to or
> > copy of the info but the listquest archives seem to be down again. Any
> > help greatly appreciated.
> >
> > -John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HawaiiBobF at aol.com
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 19:16:11 EDT
Subject: New tire question
Hi all,
I recently developed a bad shimmy at various speeds. Radial Michelin's all
around, 5 yrs old with very few miles. Too much sitting I think caused a
pair of sidewall wrinkles opposite each other on all tires. Yesterday I
noticed the left rear had separated in the treads, wire exposed, real ugly.
Will check the others tonight but feel I should replace them all anyway. So,
what's the collective advice on the replacements? Radial or bias ply?
I think the sway with radials is exaggerated on the older suspension, or visa
versa. What size do you support? I'm thinking wider might be better. I
won't flare the wheel wells. All comments are appreciated in advance.
Bob Fulford
'62 MK ii
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RandallC2 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 19:31:54 EDT
Subject: 100S
Hi all, there was a 100S being auctioned earlier this week in Australia. Did
anyone see or hear what it went for?
Randy Hicks
'56 100M
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 18:44:58 -0500
Subject: AH100 on ebay
Have you guys seen this one? Looks like a great car for someone who wants
to start with a good car and make a real nice car.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595567073#
DESC
Price doesn't seem to bad either.
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 10:02:41 +1000
Subject: RE: 100S
G'day
Yes indeed the 100S was sold at auction for $244,000 Australian dollars plus
10% commission plus a little bit more. I understand that it's heading for
the US West Coast. The cost in US Dollars would be around $140,000.
The car was originally sold new in France and when it was bought back in
1975 by Glyn Lambert he drove it across Europe to the UK during which it
caught fire and damaged. It came out to Australia and first owned by John
Gray before Steve Pike bought it, restored and sold it to John Blandon in
1980 for $24,000 Aust. It was John who just sold it as well as a Type 35
Bugatti that used to belong to Donald Campbell. That went for $375,000 plus
commission or around $214,000 US Dollars.
Good money indeed.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
-----Original Message-----
From: RandallC2@aol.com [mailto:RandallC2@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2001 9:32 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 100S
Hi all, there was a 100S being auctioned earlier this week in Australia.
Did
anyone see or hear what it went for?
Randy Hicks
'56 100M
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 17:45:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Dwell on dwell please (help!)
FWIW, when I used points I found an initial gap setting of 11-12 thou got the
dwell about
right.
I know, I know, the book says 15 thou but 11 worked for me.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> Warren:
>
> There have been some good explanations to your questions on dwell but no
> one told you what the spec is. For the 3000 engine the dwell spec is 35
> degrees +/- 3 degrees. Try to stay on the high side of the spec. Shoot
> for 38 on the initial setting. The dwell will reduce as the points wear.
>
> Best regards.
> Jim Hockert
> BJ8 Rallye
> Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 10:43:36 +1000
Subject: RE: 100S
Hello Again
Just as an aside I have just heard that the very first Holden motor car that
was actually hand built at General Motors in Detroit and predates the first
Australian built Holden was recently sold at auction for AUD$315,000 which
is around $164,000 US Dollars.
The value of rare cars is alive and well.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Quinn, Patrick
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2001 10:03 AM
To: 'RandallC2@aol.com'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: 100S
G'day
Yes indeed the 100S was sold at auction for $244,000 Australian dollars plus
10% commission plus a little bit more. I understand that it's heading for
the US West Coast. The cost in US Dollars would be around $140,000.
The car was originally sold new in France and when it was bought back in
1975 by Glyn Lambert he drove it across Europe to the UK during which it
caught fire and damaged. It came out to Australia and first owned by John
Gray before Steve Pike bought it, restored and sold it to John Blandon in
1980 for $24,000 Aust. It was John who just sold it as well as a Type 35
Bugatti that used to belong to Donald Campbell. That went for $375,000 plus
commission or around $214,000 US Dollars.
Good money indeed.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
-----Original Message-----
From: RandallC2@aol.com [mailto:RandallC2@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2001 9:32 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 100S
Hi all, there was a 100S being auctioned earlier this week in Australia.
Did
anyone see or hear what it went for?
Randy Hicks
'56 100M
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 17:47:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Mix
Chevron 20W-50, dispensed automatically from the front seal and the bell
housing :)
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> Bob;
> What brand and weight do you recommend for undercoating.?
> Ron
>
> Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> > Hal,
> >
> > In all my reading, research and "hangar talk" regarding oils--both
>automotive and aviation--it's
> > always been said that mixing viscosities is not a good idea. Don't know
>the definitive reason, but
> > SUSPECT it has to do with the fact that oils are carefully blended to
>achieve correct viscosity
> > for the mission and mixing viscosities would create undesirable results.
>Multi-vis oils start with
> > a lower viscosity base (e.g. 7W oil for a 10W-30) and add viscosity
>improvers to achieve the
> > higher viscosity at temperature. These may not react well with a much
>higher base viscosity
> > oil; e.g. 30W.
> >
> > In a pinch, though, I think it would be better to mix viscosities than to
>run really low on oil,
> > just change it out ASAP. Mixing different brands of the same viscosity is
>supposed to be OK.
> >
> > You can, however, use any brand or viscosity for undercoating :)
> >
> > Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 18:23:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Owning a Healey
Amen!
----------
> From: William Wood Jr <healeybill@worldnet.att.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Owning a Healey
> Date: Thursday, September 27, 2001 10:45 AM
>
>
> I am amazed everytime I "tune in " the Chat Group for all us Healey
owners.
>
> Just enjoy your cars and spend less time either criticizing others or
> justifying what you are doing.
>
> The Jackie Cooper 100S I was fortunate enough to find, own, restore,
drive,
> and sell was a love of labor for me. I found it on the street in
Brooklyn
> for $1500.00, searched out various parts it needed by myself, took it all
> apart getting my hands dirty to learn about the car itself and also
because
> I didn't have the bucks, with two kids going away to school, wrote one
check
> to Tom Kovacs for $42,000 for the total restoration of the car, drove it
> many miles for the extreme pleasure of it all, showed it at Talledaga
when
> Donald Healey was inducted into the Hall of Fame, and sold it reluctantly
to
> a fellow in Italy who couldn't live without it for money (I never saw a
> dollar) sent from Switzerland to England to buy a Ford GT40 shipped to me
> BOAC to Boston.
>
> You all can argue about undercoating or not, what flavor oil to use, the
> color shades of British Racing Green, and anything else that you think
of,
> but after it is all over, please be able to look at that mirror and
decide
> that you yourself have enjoyed your car to the fullest. I have.
>
> Best regards to all
>
> Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 21:55:53 -0400
Subject: Re: tire wear info
Could be, Jerry -
The old guy who adjusted the toe-in on my car while I was in Tullahoma
explained the reason for toe-in in the first place, which I had wondered
about. He said when the front suspension and steering load up under the
thrust from the rear wheels, the tyres tend to toe out a bit due to rolling
resistance. The toe-in is to compensate for that. Makes sense to me. I
guess bias ply tyres have more rolling resistance, which would cause them to
toe out more.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: tire wear info
> histeve,
>
> that 1/16 to 1/8 spec was for bias ply tires. my prediction is your tires
will continue to wear if you are running radials. i've always run zero with
radials and experienced no wear other than normal uniform wear due to
mileage.
>
> happy healeying,
>
> jerry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 19:18:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Perspective: undercoat & concours
All -
At the end of the day, I would happily love to see my
pristine BJ8 dropped from 30,000 feet out of a B-2,
packed with explosives & a lot of itching powder if it
meant that it would end the terrorist scourge
eminating out of the mud holes in Afghanistan.
To the concourse top notch guys: If some loser bad
mouths a top notch restoration out of envy: ignore
'em! Your car is kick ass, you should be proud of it
and the other guy is a loser! No worries.
To the guys who use prodigious amounts of undercoat to
keep the car from disintegrating: Congrats, you own
one of the most beautiful cars ever made. So what if
you can't afford to do it right or you're a "gallon
short of a full tank" - you've done your best and
enjoy the car. No need to wheeze poetic about some
other wanker that's got a hell of alot more cash to
restore the car than you. Enjoy it!
Meanwhile, I got the only BJ8 in Hong Kong and I've
got no one else to bitch about the less than perfect
restoration I did because.... I know more about
Healeys than anyone else here!!!
If you want to hear stupid - a guy in Hong Kong I know
traded an E-type 15 years ago for a 1948 Singer. Talk
about stupid!
Cheers from a very lonely healey guy in Hong Kong,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Wiedemeyer <boxweed@thebest.net> wrote:
>
> Hmmmm..........me thinks he doth protest too
> much!......must have hit a
> nerve! Checkmate!
>
> Bob
Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone.
http://phone.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Olin Kane <kanes at frontier.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 20:24:22 -0600
Subject: Dwell on old distributors
If the bushings in your distributor are badly worn (probably pretty common
in high mileage Healeys) you may have trouble adjusting your points to get
a dwell angle in the 35 degree neighborhood. As slop in the distributor
increases, you'll find that you have to reduce the point gap to get the
proper dwell angle. In any case, don't let the tail wag the dog. Remember
it's the dwell angle that's important, not the point gap. Do what you
gotta do with the points to get the proper dwell angle. You need to let
the coil charge long enough to get a hot spark when you discharge it.
Olin Kane
BJ7
Durango, CO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bradley H. Simmons" <email at liquidparadigm.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 22:34:50 -0500
Subject: Crankshaft Bolt Size
If someone would be kind enough to enlighten me as to the proper
size wrench / socket for the crankshaft bolt on my 1958 100-6
BN6 (it is the 6-port engine if that makes a difference) ... the
one on the front that is flared for a hand crank ... I would be
most grateful. The largest wrench that I have is 1 1/2 inch SAE
and it is too small.
Kindest Regards,
Bradley
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 00:06:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Mix
Unless the SAE guidelines have become more generalized in recent years WRT
the various ratings, there can't be much difference. It's kind of like
buying different brands of Aspirin....... I imagine the majority of cars on
the road today have whatever brand was on sale, or WRT having it changed by
various oil change shops, garages, etc., I seriously doubt very many car
owners demand the same manuf/oil, and motors are lasting longer than ever.
Anyway, IMO mixing vendors has more to do with marketing than technical,
like only using genuine (name your fav car manuf here) replacement parts for
proper performance.
WRT mixing single viscosities, you wind up with something in-between and
normally no big deal. Mixing a single with a multi, or two different weight
range multi-viscosities can be a Big Deal, especially the latter as the
polymers can interact in such a way to clog filters, etc.. Think two Slinkys
becoming cross intertwined was how it was explained to me. Worse still, this
blocks each from doing their job of keeping the oil from thinning as the
motor heats up. Motors don't last as long on little more than fine machine
oil once up to temp.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> That's the opposite of what I'd heard Bob. As told to me, the different
> mfgrs. use different base stock formulations, so it's supposed to be less
> wrong to mix viscosities from the same vendor, but cross vendor was the
> no-no. No definitive references to point to, maybe I can check with SAE.
>
>
> Bill Katz
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 21:06:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Dwell on old distributors
That's exactly why I switched to a Pertronics, I couldn't hold the dwell
settings on my car. Now it's rock steady and the car starts and runs much
better.
bk
-----------------------
At 07:24 PM 9/27/2001, you wrote:
>If the bushings in your distributor are badly worn (probably pretty common
>in high mileage Healeys) you may have trouble adjusting your points to get
>a dwell angle in the 35 degree neighborhood. As slop in the distributor
>increases, you'll find that you have to reduce the point gap to get the
>proper dwell angle. In any case, don't let the tail wag the dog. Remember
>it's the dwell angle that's important, not the point gap. Do what you
>gotta do with the points to get the proper dwell angle. You need to let
>the coil charge long enough to get a hot spark when you discharge it.
>
>
>Olin Kane
>BJ7
>Durango, CO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 22:03:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Perspective: undercoat & concours
I wish we could get by with dropping sports cars on them rather than my sons.
Unfortunately I don't have much faith in that option.
Fortunately I know my sons and the people they hang around with and I think it
is time to pray for our enemies. They will be needing it.
Bill Lawrence
"One.Proud.American" wrote:
> All -
>
> At the end of the day, I would happily love to see my
> pristine BJ8 dropped from 30,000 feet out of a B-2,
> packed with explosives & a lot of itching powder if it
> meant that it would end the terrorist scourge
> eminating out of the mud holes in Afghanistan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 01:37:53 -0400
Subject: RE: Crankshaft Bolt Size
Not sure they are all the same, but the BJ7 is 1-11/16"
Ken Mason
"Bradley H. Simmons" <email@liquidparadigm.com> wrote:
>
>If someone would be kind enough to enlighten me as to the proper
>size wrench / socket for the crankshaft bolt on my 1958 100-6
>BN6 (it is the 6-port engine if that makes a difference) ... the
>one on the front that is flared for a hand crank ... I would be
>most grateful. The largest wrench that I have is 1 1/2 inch SAE
>and it is too small.
>
>Kindest Regards,
>
>Bradley
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 08:30:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Concours
On September 27 somebody said.....
>>where you do a little home sanding, use lots of wrong parts, leave sand marks
>under the final paint coat, and don't detail too much of anything>>
Hmmm, you mean like as they were when they rolled off the assembly line??
Sorry, just couldn't help myself.
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 08:06:54 -0700
Subject: RE: Dwell on old distributors
No you can't adjust the dwell angle Simon, it's fixed by the fact that
there are 360 degrees in a circle and that's sliced into 4 or 6 equally
sized sections (depending on the # of cylinders). My point was that my worn
distributor prevented me from maintaining a consistent dwell setting,
whereas the Pertronics never varies.
bk
------------------
At 07:47 AM 9/28/2001, simon.lachlan wrote:
>Can you adjust dwell if you've got a Petronix? I thought, in my
>ignorance, that dwell questions were overcome by the device's
>intrinsic technological development upon points?????
>
>Simon.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bill Katz
>Sent: 28 September 2001 05:07
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Dwell on old distributors
>
>
>That's exactly why I switched to a Pertronics, I couldn't hold
>the dwell
>settings on my car. Now it's rock steady and the car starts and
>runs much
>better.
>
>bk
>-----------------------
>At 07:24 PM 9/27/2001, you wrote:
>
> >If the bushings in your distributor are badly worn (probably
>pretty common
> >in high mileage Healeys) you may have trouble adjusting your
>points to get
> >a dwell angle in the 35 degree neighborhood. As slop in the
>distributor
> >increases, you'll find that you have to reduce the point gap to
>get the
> >proper dwell angle. In any case, don't let the tail wag the
>dog. Remember
> >it's the dwell angle that's important, not the point gap. Do
>what you
> >gotta do with the points to get the proper dwell angle. You
>need to let
> >the coil charge long enough to get a hot spark when you
>discharge it.
> >
> >
> >Olin Kane
> >BJ7
> >Durango, CO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 08:33:23 -0700
Subject: Re: tire wear info
JustBrits wrote:
> Prob'ly help if we "knew" what your prob is, John??
>
> Ed
Hi Ed,
Sorry for being so vague. No tire wear problems on my Healey. I was
trying to help out someone who is going through tires quickly and
getting a lot of cupping on his VW Golf despite repeated alignments. I
was sent the following steering/tire wear info off list and it was what
I was looking for. Pasted here again for inquiring minds...
Cheers,
John
--------------
>Caster is a directional control angle, not a "tire wearing angle" in
>alignment. It is the relationship of the upper and lower front
>suspensions pivots to each other. In an Austin Healey suspension it
>would be the forward or backward tilt of the kingpin when viewed from
>the side of the car. With modern cars it is the ball joint rather than
>the kingpin. With the upper suspension behind the lower suspension
>(think Harley Chopper with extended forks), this positive caster will
>provide self-centering of the steering wheel at speed but make it
>difficult to parallel park without power steering. With the upper
>suspension moved forward in relation to the lower suspension, this
>negative caster will provide very easy low speed steering, but will
>wander all over the road at speed.
>
>Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel as seen from the
front
>of the vehicle. When the wheel tilts outward at the top, it has
>positive camber. This places most of the car's weight over the larger
>inner wheel bearing and compensates for front axle flexing in trucks or
>older straight axle cars. If the wheel leans inward at the top, it has
>negative camber (think de-cambered racing Volkswagen). Both positive
or
>negative camber can cause the inside or outside edges of the tire to
>wear excessively. Independent front suspension has reduced the need
for
>camber.
>
>When the leading edges of the front wheels are closer together than the
>trailing edges, the wheels are said to have toe-in. If the wheels are
>closer together at the rear, they have toe-out. Toe is designed into
>the front suspension to compensate for the changes that take place in
>the steering linkage and tire caused when the car begins to move
>forward. Once the car is moving, toe-in disappears because the linkage
>bends slightly and the wheels straighten out under the force of pushing
>them down the road.
>
>Toe is a tire wearing angle, as is camber. Too much toe-in will cause
a
>feather-edged wear pattern on the inside of the front tires. Too much
>toe-out will cause a feather-edge pattern on the outside of the front
>tires. Incorrect camber will cause the same wear pattern on the inner
>or outer edges of the front tires, however it will be smooth, not
>feather edged. By running your fingers around the tire, if you feel a
>"fish scale" (feathering) one way and a little smoother the other
>direction you will have a toe problem. If the wear on the the inner or
>outer edge is smooth, it is a camber problem.
>
>If both inner and outer edges are worn and there is no feathering . . .
>the tire is underinflated (if the center tread is wearing out faster
>than the edge, the tire is over inflated)
>
>If there are numerous circular spots of worn tread around the tire it
>could be either shocks or balance causing the wheel to hop.
>
>I hope this helps clear up reading tire wear.
>
>Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 09:45:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Dwell on old distributors
Bill, et al.;
This brings up another issue of Lucas distributors, to which I've never
found a satisfactory answer.... The question is: Why did Lucas produce 3
different cam lobe profiles. Namely: Symmetric, Asymmetric, and High lift.
I think they ultimately settled on the symmetric, probably due to post
wear, point float and cam lobe wear.
Anyone have a clue?
Incidentally, each variation had slightly different dwell angles and point
gaps.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@virgin.net>; "Healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2001 9:06 AM
Subject: RE: Dwell on old distributors
>
> No you can't adjust the dwell angle Simon, it's fixed by the fact that
> there are 360 degrees in a circle and that's sliced into 4 or 6 equally
> sized sections (depending on the # of cylinders). My point was that my
worn
> distributor prevented me from maintaining a consistent dwell setting,
> whereas the Pertronics never varies.
>
> bk
> ------------------
> At 07:47 AM 9/28/2001, simon.lachlan wrote:
> >Can you adjust dwell if you've got a Petronix? I thought, in my
> >ignorance, that dwell questions were overcome by the device's
> >intrinsic technological development upon points?????
> >
> >Simon.
>-----------------------
> >At 07:24 PM 9/27/2001, you wrote:
> >
> > >If the bushings in your distributor are badly worn (probably
> >pretty common
> > >in high mileage Healeys) you may have trouble adjusting your
> >points to get
> > >a dwell angle in the 35 degree neighborhood. As slop in the
> >distributor
> > >increases, you'll find that you have to reduce the point gap to
> >get the
> > >proper dwell angle. In any case, don't let the tail wag the
> >dog. Remember
> > >it's the dwell angle that's important, not the point gap. Do
> >what you
> > >gotta do with the points to get the proper dwell angle. You
> >need to let
> > >the coil charge long enough to get a hot spark when you
> >discharge it.
> > >
> > >
> > >Olin Kane
> > >BJ7
> > >Durango, CO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 09:20:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Crankshaft Bolt Size
My BJ8 also has the flares for a hand crank and the nut is 1 11/16.
Len
1967 3000 MkIII HBJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <MeditionM@netscape.net>
To: ""Bradley H. Simmons"" <email@liquidparadigm.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 10:37 PM
Subject: RE: Crankshaft Bolt Size
>
> Not sure they are all the same, but the BJ7 is 1-11/16"
> Ken Mason
>
>
> "Bradley H. Simmons" <email@liquidparadigm.com> wrote:
>
> >
> >If someone would be kind enough to enlighten me as to the proper
> >size wrench / socket for the crankshaft bolt on my 1958 100-6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bradley H. Simmons" <email at liquidparadigm.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 11:21:24 -0500
Subject: Instrument Restoration
I have a 58 100-6 BN6 and I am in the process of evaluating a
shop to repair / restore the instruments; they are not in
terrible condition but will require silk-screening of the dials,
etc. I am considering the following shops as candidates:
AutoInstruments.com, Martinsville, VA
D And M Restoration, Greenville, SC
Nissonger Instrument, Mamoroneck, NY
Palo Alto Speedometer, Palo Alto, CA
If anyone has had any experience with these shops or if there is
another that they could recommend, any input would be greatly
appreciated.
Regards,
Bradley
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 10:50:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Silicone Ignition Wires
Does anyone on the list have experience regarding the use of silicone
ignition wires on a big Healey? My local NAPA lists a set of
silicone wires with factory terminated spark plug ends for a BJ8, but
I would need to cut off a brass fitting on the distributor end and
then pierce with the standard distributor cap "vampire screw". (I
have some new 7mm soilid core wire in my parts stash, but requests
for solid core terminal ends at several shops has been fruitless.) I
have no aversion to the more modern wires, I simply would like to
know if silicone wires are better, worse, or about the same for
Healey applications? Thanks-Jack jaschaible@yahoo.com
Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone.
http://phone.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 10:53:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Silicone Ignition Wires
Listers,
Stopped at a friend's shop the other day and found him stalkin' around with
a fly swatter.
When I asked if he was gettin' any flies, he answered,
"Yeah, 3 males and 2 females".
Curious, I inquired as to how he could tell the difference.
He answered, "3 were on a beer can, and 2 were on the phone."
Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JRLNJ at aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 14:26:53 EDT
Subject: Headers
Does someone on the list have the name & contact info of the company in
Phoenix (?) that makes headers for the 3000? These headers were mentioned on
the list about two months ago, credited as being well made, and fitting
easily.
I can't remember any other information about them.
Ray Lynch
BJ8, Bugeyes
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 14:52:11 EDT
Subject: neckties
Does anyone know of a retailer selling Healey picture or Healey logo neckties?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 15:10:55 -0400
Subject: Fw: Silicone Ignition Wires
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Re: Silicone Ignition Wires
> John, the problem with silicone wires, is in the cap. When the pointed
> screw pierces the cable, it breaks the silicone core, which then procedes
to
> retreat in both directions away from the screw, inside the insulation.
You
> then get misfiring, (can't be the cables, 'cause they're new), which takes
a
> long time to find. Don't ask me how I know!! Stick with the solid core
> wires. We have wire ends if you can't find them locally.
> Cheers.........Bob @ AUTOFARM
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "norris" <f.norris at home.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 13:05:23 -0700
Subject: Ditto Instrument Restoration
Hi everyone;
I'm starting restoring a BJ8 I've neglected for the last 18 years. Like
Bradley Simmons, I need a good place to have my instrument guages
restored.Recommendations requested. Also seeking source for original - style
fastners ( bolts, screws, etc.)
thanks in advance,
Mark Norris
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 13:36:16 -0700
Subject: British Wings & Wheels
Listers:
Anyone going to this event on Sunday?
We could meet chat and swap lies.
I am not showing a car because my healey is in the shop,
I have not found a 150 FHC and my wife's
XJ6 is too boring to show.
Ron Rader
British Wings & Wheels
Date: Sunday, September 30, 2001
Time: 9:30 AM - 3:30 PM PDT
Museum Of Flying in Santa Monica.
Santa Monica CA
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rader.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 19:49:13 -0400
Subject: VSRA race
Is anyone out there planning to go to the vintage race at Summit Point, WVA
next weekend? If so, contact me off list. I and a fellow Healey owner plan
on being there Sat and Sun.
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 19:28:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Silicone Ignition Wires
<<...but requests
for solid core terminal ends at several shops has been fruitless...>>
BimbleBee wires, John. POC.
Ends?? Better find a REAL "...shop...". Another POC!
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 20:36:24 EDT
Subject: Re: neckties
Lands End makes a very nice tie with small, blue healeys all over it. You
have to get within a few feet to realize that there are cars on the tie.
Ned Paulsen
1960 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 19:29:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Ditto Instrument Restoration
<<I need a good place to have my instrument guages>>
Mo-Ma, Mark.
PERIOD.
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 22:56:14 EDT
Subject: Off list topic, Lancia Beta
does anyone care or know of anyone who cares about a '76 Lancia Beta?
Contact me off list, it would be cheap, car in WI.
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7
'80 TR8 Coupe
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
'39 Dodge Business Coupe
Etc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RandallC2 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 23:41:42 EDT
Subject: Re: 100S
OK!, Thanks for the info. Does anyone know who on the west coast bought this
car?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeygal at cs.com
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 03:22:59 EDT
Subject: ANOTHER PERSPECTIVE
Hello,
I'm new here and I know that in computer time, this topic was ions ago.
Sorry for the delay. I've had my BN1 for 25 years now, but it wasn't until a
couple of years ago I had a lot of major mechanical work done on it (by a
mechanic with at least two other customers I know of that have recently taken
Best of Class with their Healeys) so that I could begin taking it to local
events, not to show, but just to get there!
One of my favorite Healey-related activities is going to British car shows -
they are such neat cars! I enjoy not only the variety of cars, but the
varying condition of the cars being shown. It's nice seeing an example of a
100-point car from each marque, but it's also fun seeing a Healey with a 289
stuffed into it, or an MGB with Fiat seats.
For me, driving the car is the big thrill, but I realize that for others,
it's the satisfaction of working on their cars themselves and for yet others,
it's the quest for a 100-point car. Bottom line, and most importantly, I
think it's the combination of all these interests and activities by
enthusiasts worldwide that has kept our beloved little British cars on the
road, alive and well, long beyond their time.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 10:05:27 +0100
Subject: Re: neckties
In message <123.506ded6.28e620dc@aol.com>, COPPIFAN@aol.com writes
>
>Does anyone know of a retailer selling Healey picture or Healey logo neckties?
Try the Regalia section of the UK Austin Healey Club (address below) -
we have what I think you are looking for.
-
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 02:51:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100S
Randall -
Just curious, would you happen to have a set of
boltcutters, jumper cables, and grease money for the
mexican border on you? ;-)
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- RandallC2@aol.com wrote:
>
> OK!, Thanks for the info. Does anyone know who on
> the west coast bought this
> car?
Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone.
http://phone.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 11:30:37 EDT
Subject: Re: neckties
The Lands End tie is no longer in production. However, I've got a better
lead. I bought a tie this summer (at a men's store; can't remember which one)
that has on it Healeys (BJ8 Series 2), XK120s, Triumph TR3s, and MG TCs. On
the back it's labeled "Classic Ragtops" circle-C Alynn Neckwear Creative
American Design Stamford CT 800-252-5966. Would make a nice Christmas gift
for a car lover. (I have no interests in this firm and they don't even
advertise with us.)
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 11:36:01 EDT
Subject: Re: lemans headlamps
Folks,
What is the difference in the Lemans headlamps as compare to standard ?
Jim L.
56 BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 10:21:49 -0700
Subject: BT7 Generator Problems ?
Dear Healey Group-
I was driving my 1961 3000 BT7 through the beach communities of San Diego
yesterday when I noticed an unusual sound emanating from the engine
compartment. Upon closer inspection I am fairly confident that the sound is
coming from the generator. The sound is a sound that seems to be being
caused by some friction inside the generator maybe from what seems like the
brushes? The generator still seems to be working (the battery isn't dead is
the only reason I say this), but there is no amp meter/voltmeter on the car.
The sound is disturbing and disturbing sounds often lead to cell phone calls
from the side of the road so I really want to address the issue now. This
morning I disconnected the generator to see if that might isolate the sound.
Only a slight difference IF a difference at all. Then I removed the fan
belt momentarily and ran the engine for 20-30 seconds. With no belt turning
on the generator pulley the sound I was hearing before was gone. Although
it seems to me therefore to be the generator... I would not wager the car on
it. Is there a sure fire way that anyone knows to isolate whether or not my
generator is going out? And additionally if the generator is going out...
what is the best avenue for repair? What type of costs are typically
associated to the repair of these generators? Does anyone know a reputable
source in San Diego, or So Cal? I am sure that others within this forum
have had generator problems and I would really appreciate your feedback. Oh
and on top of this I want the car buttoned up by October 7th for British Car
Day ! If it's not one thing it's another.
Thanks!
Matt-
61 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 11:11:52 -0700
Subject: I can't get the Bell off my BN2
Hello,
I'm trying to replace the seal on the bell housing on my BN2 tranny. I've
pulled all 8 bolts out of the bell but it wont budge. I've hammered on it
pretty good so I'm guessing I missed something. Can I pull the bell without
opening up the side-shift case???
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Web-Master Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mark McLennan <mark at mclennan.f9.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 19:39:42 +0100
Subject: Austin Healey Prints SALE
Austin Healey Prints
There are a limited amount of Austin Healey Prints by David Purvis still
available, all now at SALE PRICES. On The Guild of motoring artists
website.
1. Set of 12 Full Color Prints - ready to frame, each measuring 11" x 8" and
featuring 100/6BN, MK1 Sebring Sprite, BJ8 3000, Climax SR & Frog Eyed
Sprite amongst others, available for just $35 for all 12 prints, thats less
than $3 per print.
WAS $35 SALE PRICE $20
Including FREE Shipping
Buy online now at http://www.motorart.co.uk/dpsale.html
2. large print measuring 520mm x 400mm, of the Austin Healey 100 M at Le
Mans 1953.
WAS $35
ONLY 5 LEFT
SALE PRICE $20
Buy online now at http://www.motorart.co.uk/dpsale.html
3. large print measuring 520mm x 400mm, of Austin Healey 3000 Mk1 at Le
Mans.
WAS $35
ONLY 5 LEFT
SALE PRICE $20
Buy online now at http://www.motorart.co.uk/dpsale.html
4. SPECIAL DEAL
Set of 12 Full Color Prints - ready to frame, each measuring 11" x 8" and
featuring 100/6BN, MK1 Sebring Sprite, BJ8 3000, Climax SR & Frog Eyed
Sprite amongst others, available for just $35 for all 12 prints, that9s
less than $3 per print.
PLUS The large print measuring 520mm x 400mm, of the Austin Healey 100 M at
Le Mans 1953.
WAS $70
ONLY 5 LEFT
SALE PRICE $37.50
Buy online now at http://www.motorart.co.uk/dpsale.html
5.SPECIAL DEAL
Set of 12 Full Color Prints - ready to frame, each measuring 11" x 8" and
featuring 100/6BN, MK1 Sebring Sprite, BJ8 3000, Climax SR & Frog Eyed
Sprite amongst others, available for just $35 for all 12 prints, thats less
than $3 per print.
PLUS The large print measuring 520mm x 400mm, of the Austin Healey 3000 MK 1
at Le Mans.
WAS $70
ONLY 5 LEFT
SALE PRICE $37.50
Buy online now at http://www.motorart.co.uk/dpsale.html
6. SPECIAL DEAL
Set of 12 Full Color Prints - ready to frame, each measuring 11" x 8" and
featuring 100/6BN, MK1 Sebring Sprite, BJ8 3000, Climax SR & Frog Eyed
Sprite amongst others, available for just $35 for all 12 prints, thats less
than $3 per print.
PLUS The large print measuring 520mm x 400mm, of the Austin Healey 100 M at
Le Mans 1953.
PLUS The large print measuring 520mm x 400mm, of the Austin Healey 3000 MK 1
at Le Mans.
WAS $105
ONLY 5 LEFT
SALE PRICE $55
Buy online now at http://www.motorart.co.uk/dpsale.html
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike Jackley" <mjackley at dtgnet.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 12:55:22 -0600
Subject: Vintage Automotive Engineering-Everett Smith
This may have come up while I have been off the list, but does anyone know
if Everett Smith is still making Healey Sheetmetal panels under the name of
Vintage Automotive Engineering? And if so, how to get ahold of him.
Thanks.
Mike Jackley mjackley@dtgnet.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 16:47:41 EDT
Subject: BN1 gearbox
Strange whining noise in 1st & 2nd, getting more pronounced in past 18
months, 3rd is fine. Overdrive not working although electric's are OK.
Intend to pull gearbox/overdrive this winter.
1) what parts must I have?
2) what other parts should I install since I'm into it?
3) who might have them?
4) do detailed suggestions exist?
Thank you for any help. Bill Huck BN1, BT7 ex-BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 16:52:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Ditto Instrument Restoration
This topic cam up about a month ago and there seemed to be a consensus (I am
sure somebody will correct me if I am wrong) that the place to go/send was
Mo-Ma:
Mo - Ma Industries
1321 2nd Street N.W
Albq., NM 87102
(505) 766-6661
Perhaps there are listers who have personal experience with them and can
supply recommendations...
Dave D.
'59 BT 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 17:12:18 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 gearbox
Bill,
Sounds like the layshaft bearings since it is not spinning or in use when in
top gear...that would be my semi educated guess. Try
BritishCarSpecialists.com
Dave Nock is very helpful, knowledgeable and drives a big Healey as well as
having a clean shop and access to/stock of parts.
Dave Duffey
'59 BT 7 (still a garage queen, unfortunately, but about to start the
transformation)
In a message dated 09/29/2001 1:50:59 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
BillHUCK@aol.com writes:
> Strange whining noise in 1st & 2nd, getting more pronounced in past 18
> months, 3rd is fine. Overdrive not working although electric's are OK.
> Intend to pull gearbox/overdrive this winter.
> 1) what parts must I have?
> 2) what other parts should I install since I'm into it?
> 3) who might have them?
> 4) do detailed suggestions exist?
> Thank you for any help. Bill Huck BN1, BT7 ex-BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 14:42:26 -0700
Subject: Lucas Generator Question
Healey Message Board-
The restoration Guide shows that my 1961 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 should have
come with a Lucas Generator stamped with the numbers 22530 A or B (for the
29D Engine). I pulled my dying generator off and instead of it being marked
with those numbers it is marked with 22733J. Can anyone out there tell me
what the generator's actual application was/is? I mean what car and year is
appropriate for? Was it for another BMC car instead of Healey but then
somewhere along my car's life used as a result of being pulled from a
junkyard to replace the original that had gone bad? I sincerely appreciate
your help. Thanks to those of you that answered my first post on this!
That's you too Roland!
Regards-
Matt-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 17:41:28 -0400
Subject: Re: BT7 Generator Problems ?
If you disconnected the generator, which, I assume, means you prevented it
from spinning while the engine was running, and it still made the noise, but
then when you took the fan belt completely off, the noise stopped, it seems
to me that the problem would have to be the water pump, not the generator.
Bob
>This
>morning I disconnected the generator to see if that might isolate the
sound.
>Only a slight difference IF a difference at all. Then I removed the fan
>belt momentarily and ran the engine for 20-30 seconds. With no belt
turning
>on the generator pulley the sound I was hearing before was gone.
>Thanks!
>Matt-
>61 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 18:22:11 EDT
Subject: Re: BT7 Generator Problems ?
I recently had the same problem on my BJ8. Everything worked OK but it made
noise. Found the bearing at the back had been shimmed with washers when it
was rebuilt many years ago. The washers had worn and the commutator was
moving backward in the housing. The fan on the back of the pulley was hitting
the generator housing and making the noise.
Took it to a reputable rebuilder and he made my day when he pulled out a NOS
generator and sold it to me for $75.
Look for rearward movement by pushing on the pulley. And don't forget to add
a few drops of oil to the rear bushing occasionally.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 18:25:23 -0400
Subject: Re:Fan Spacer
I have a fan spacer manufactured by Kool-Klutch Mfg. Co., old part No.
1758, new part No. 151758. Does anyone have an idea as to it's
application? Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 18:28:51 EDT
Subject: Bluegrass Club Newsletter
I now have the Bluegrass Club Newsletter online and available for a download
in Adobe Acrobat form. It can be found at <A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/jwerner/newsletter.html";>Bluegrass Club
Newsletter</A> .
The link does work but if too many people try at the same time some will get
an error message. If so, try back later. High Speed connections get it in 30
seconds, phone modems take about seven minutes. It is a large file, 2.3 MB.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 18:51:14 -0400
Subject: Re:Top Latch
Can someone tell me what car a 1A 9308 Ferrule (top latch) fits? Would it
be for a 100-4 or the six cylinder cars? Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 18:05:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Letter from Margo Healey
Hello all,
Today I received a letter from Margo Healey and I'd like to share it with
all of you. The letter was dated and postmarked September 14, but with the
recent interruption in air service it is little wonder that it took over two
weeks to travel from the UK to Florida. The text of the letter is inserted
below.
I would also like to take this opportunity to thank those of you who
respected my request to observe a moratorium, however brief, in the usual
hobby chat here in honor of the horrific events of September 11. This is my
first post to the list since that request made on the morning of September
12. As an Army officer working in the US military headquarters with
responsibility for US military operations in the Middle East, including
Afghanistan, I can report that my life, and those of so many more here and
elsewhere, has not been the same since September 11. We are in the opening
moments of what promises to be a long war -- the very last thing that any
soldier wants.
In any case, for the uninitiated, Margo Healey is the widow of Geoff Healey,
one of Donald Healey's three sons. Geoff was instrumental in the
development, engineering and testing of Austin-Healeys. His role is well
documented in several books on the marque, including some that he authored
himself. Geoff passed away in 1993 and Margo has remained active in
Austin-Healey club activities both in the UK and in the USA. Please scroll
down for the text of her letter. Thank you.
Sincerely,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
-----
14th September 2001
Dear Reid & all members,
On this day of mourning, only a few weeks after my visit to Rendezvous 2001,
I feel very strongly that I must write a personal handwritten letter to you
all.
My father in law, my husband, my daughters, Cecilia & Kate & I always
remember the great kindness, hospitality & generosity of you all to us.
Worldwide & particularly here in the United Kingdom we are all shocked & I
wish to send to you our most heartfelt condolences and sincerely hope that
none of the members of Austin-Healey Clubs throughout the U.S.A. are
affected personally in this great tragedy. It was not a film, it was not a
computer game, it was reality & the world has shrunk into shock, and now
everything will be different.
Most sincerely,
Margo Healey
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Kollar" <wkollar at superior.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 21:49:13 -0400
Subject: Pretty Good Image Search Engine
I've used the google search engine quite a bit while tracing the family roots
and it
works rather well, but this is the first time I've found an "image" search
version to
use. Try punching in your favorite auto and then be pleasantly surprised by the
number of hits/images you receive. Of course you can also search any other
subject
you might like.
I entered the word "Healey" and my results were about 5,310 hits/images. Of
course
many were not for the car. Entering "Austin Healey" produced 2,210
hits/images. You
can also follow the given links to some interesting web pages.
Hope you enjoy!
http://images.google.com/
____________________________________________________________
Ever Wonder ?
__ bill kollar
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeygal at cs.com
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 23:08:06 EDT
Subject: ANOTHER PERSPECTIVE
Hello again,
Just got this computer and just joined the group - still getting the hang of
things...
I'm Sharon Tanihara from Garden Grove, California (2 miles from Disneyland)
with a "most likely '54, but registered '53" BN1 and a '60 AN5 that's just
sitting, waiting for me to win the lottery.
And yes, that's me with the $87 picture of my Healey in the July issue of
Austin Healey Magazine - what can I say?!!
Healeygal
BN1 (Bomber)
AN5 (no name)
Austin Healey Club of San Diego
Austin Healey Association
AHCUSA
Vintage CORSA of Orange County
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 13:47:33 EDT
Subject: ragtop
Just purchased a BJ8 that has a new top. Any hints on how to get it as far
forward as possible to get a better fit at the top of the windshield? I'm
sure it must be tight as it is new. Thanks.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeygal at cs.com
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 15:52:15 EDT
Subject: Re: LeMans headlamps
To JXLmail and/or list,
On 9/29, JXLmail queried re difference between LeMans and standard headlamps -
Don't quite have the hang of this yet - don't know if this is going to the
sender or the whole list, and I don't have an answer to the question, but am
interested in any information that comes up - I have a set, in the box, with
adapters and bulbs, that I bought about 15 years ago from Moss at the
recommendation of my brother. I think he had said it was second best to
buying something (original equipment) that had been discontinued; I don't
remember what, maybe foglights. The front looks like this, as best as it can
be duplicated by keyboard:
5
5
LUCAS 4
Lemans 3 24
5
9
The box says "Light Unit 554665 Birmingham England" on it. Udo of the San
Diego club said the glass has a motorcycle pattern to it - straight ahead,
not diverted. Is this another one of those Healey mysteries, or am I the
proud owner of two motorcycle headlamps?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 17:27:49 -0400
Subject: Re:Clutch Plate
Can anyone tell me the application for an AP clutch palte assembly # NHB
1344Q? TIA.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 19:11:25 -0400
Subject: Re: ragtop
Hi, Bill -
You might make sure that when you raise the top you guide the two pieces of
the cantrail into contact with each other. If the pieces have enough play
between them, they can bind and not allow the top to move forward enough.
I have this problem with my BJ8 top, so before trying to latch my top (and
sitting in the driver's seat) I push the front cantrail piece (the one over
the door window) up as I push forward on the frame and make sure it doesn't
bind on the rear cantrail piece (the curved one behind the door window). Do
this on both left and right sides of the top until you're sure the cantrail
isn't binding.
There are also shims under the top frame where it attaches to the car body
behind the seats, and these can influence the fit of the frame with the
windshield.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <COPPIFAN@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2001 1:47 PM
Subject: ragtop
>
> Just purchased a BJ8 that has a new top. Any hints on how to get it as far
> forward as possible to get a better fit at the top of the windshield? I'm
> sure it must be tight as it is new. Thanks.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 22:25:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Vintage Automotive Engineering-Everett Smith
Mike:
The website is still up as follows:
http://www.vintageautomotive.com/
Cheers,
John W. Cope
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Jackley" <mjackley@dtgnet.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2001 2:55 PM
Subject: Vintage Automotive Engineering-Everett Smith
>
> This may have come up while I have been off the list, but does anyone know
> if Everett Smith is still making Healey Sheetmetal panels under the name
of
> Vintage Automotive Engineering? And if so, how to get ahold of him.
> Thanks.
> Mike Jackley mjackley@dtgnet.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 19:44:39 -0700
Subject: Healey in movie
I was just surfing the dial and saw a blue over white Healey crashing
through a barn or something on HBO. The movie is called Liberty Heights.
Any of you listers own this car?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 23:23:49 -0400
Subject: Heater Shut-off Valve
Can someone tell me which of the heater shut-off valves mounted on the right
side of the cylinder head is correct for a '56 BN2? I have seen the
round-handled top with either serrated edges or with 8 scalloped edges.
Which is correct?......or is one type for BN1 and the other for BN2. I will
have to admit that I've seen the scalloped type on more BN1s than BN2s.
Thanks,
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 21:07:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Heater Shut-off Valve
My early BN1, body #724, has a valve with knurled or checkered edges
on the rim of the handle. I think they were probably knurled into the
brass originally, but a good gunsmith could freshen them up with a few
strokes of the appropriate files. I think the scalloped edge valve
handle is a considerably later version, perhaps only a repair part on
Hundreds.
On Sun, 30 Sep 2001 23:23:49 -0400, "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed@thebest.net>
wrote:
::
:: Can someone tell me which of the heater shut-off valves mounted on the right
:: side of the cylinder head is correct for a '56 BN2? I have seen the
:: round-handled top with either serrated edges or with 8 scalloped edges.
:: Which is correct?......or is one type for BN1 and the other for BN2. I will
:: have to admit that I've seen the scalloped type on more BN1s than BN2s.
::
:: Thanks,
:: Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
|
