Go this tie a few years back -- originaly came with a Porsche 911 but I
replaced it with a Healey. (excuse the colors----the tie is black with white
lines the Healey is dark blue.)
Jeff
"No Healey yet -- but hopeful!!"
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RCooperman at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 10:03:58 EDT
Subject: Transmission Oil
I have recently purchased a 1965 Austin Healey 3000 with O/D. As part of my
initial maintenance I am planning on replacing all fluids including the
transmission and O/D oil.
The owner's manual indicates use of multigrade engine oil. The car is based
in the mid-Atlantic states and will see winter. What is the collective
wisdom as to what grade of oil I should use? Would 10W/40W be ok?
Richard Cooperman
New '65 Healey Owner
'67 Morgan 4/4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 11:09:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Lucas Generator Question
When new these numbers applied. The problem mow is that the bodies of most of
the Lucas generators are all the same, the difference somes in the end plates
so when a rebuilder has a stack of generators to rebuild you would just use
the appropiate end plates for which ever car the generator was going to be
for. So the end result was that number on the case is possible no longer
correct. So as long as you are not overly concerned about originality it will
not be a problem.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 11:16:23 EDT
Subject: Re: BT7 Generator Problems ?
Your fan belt was probabbly over tightened which usualy damages the rear
bushing in the generator. Try to move the generator pulley up and down and if
there is any excessive mivement the n there is you problem. The only other
problem could be the water pump, try moving the fan for and aft and if that
moves then that is your noise. Be careful as to who rebuilds your generator
becaus some of you inexpensive rebuilders will not do a complete job. They
may not re wrap the fields or armature whih are the pricey part of a rebuild.
Some may only put in a couple of bearing and brushs and send you on your way.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 11:22:02 -0400
Subject: RE: Transmission Oil
Common wisdom is to use 30 weight nondetergent oil. The idea is
that the detergents in the oil will pick up all the crud which has
been sitting in the corners of the gearbox and put it into circulation,
possibly clogging some of the small passages in the overdrive.
Nondetergent oil will leave it all where it is. With detergent oil,
there is also some concern about foaming (I think).
The down side of using straight 30 weight is that the synchros may not
work well in cold weather until the car warms up.
Good luck with your Healey.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of RCooperman@aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2001 10:04 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Transmission Oil
I have recently purchased a 1965 Austin Healey 3000 with O/D. As part of my
initial maintenance I am planning on replacing all fluids including the
transmission and O/D oil.
The owner's manual indicates use of multigrade engine oil. The car is based
in the mid-Atlantic states and will see winter. What is the collective
wisdom as to what grade of oil I should use? Would 10W/40W be ok?
Richard Cooperman
New '65 Healey Owner
'67 Morgan 4/4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 11:23:29 EDT
Subject: Re: ragtop
The problem with most of the BJ8 tops is that the center of the top will not
fit the windshield and that has nothing to do with the fit of the top or
frame. The most common problem is that the front wooden bow has lost its
shape after many years on the car. If you look at the header bow when it is
up but not fastened there should be a curve to the top bow if there is a
flattened section in the center of the bow then it will never fit correctly
with out replacing it. There are also several new ones available and some do
not fit either when new so be carefull when you get one and ask if it has the
correct curve to the bow.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Warrenberg at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 11:36:44 EDT
Subject: Thanks to all, but still have a stutter
Healey mates,
Thanks to everyone for helping me get my 61 3000 BT7 tuned up. Sad to say it
still stutters while accelerating. Starts fine, idles fine, looks fabulous,
just won't run quite right. Thoughts? I am sure that the tune-up is as
close to bang-on as any I will ever achieve
One seemingly odd thing about my tune up. When I set the idle I turned the
slow idle screws 2.25 turns up and then worked down. They ended up
essentially 2.25 turns down before the idle was right. My guess is there
should be a little more adjustment play left there, but whether it is part of
my problem I have no idea.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 08:59:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Transmission Oil
Go to your friendly motor cycle shop and get stroke transmission oil. NOT the
kind you add to gas but the kind they use in the transmission made for a wet
clutch like the one in your overdrive.
Brian
Peter Schauss wrote:
> Common wisdom is to use 30 weight nondetergent oil. The idea is
> that the detergents in the oil will pick up all the crud which has
> been sitting in the corners of the gearbox and put it into circulation,
> possibly clogging some of the small passages in the overdrive.
> Nondetergent oil will leave it all where it is. With detergent oil,
> there is also some concern about foaming (I think).
>
> The down side of using straight 30 weight is that the synchros may not
> work well in cold weather until the car warms up.
>
> Good luck with your Healey.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of RCooperman@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2001 10:04 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Transmission Oil
>
> I have recently purchased a 1965 Austin Healey 3000 with O/D. As part of my
> initial maintenance I am planning on replacing all fluids including the
> transmission and O/D oil.
>
> The owner's manual indicates use of multigrade engine oil. The car is based
> in the mid-Atlantic states and will see winter. What is the collective
> wisdom as to what grade of oil I should use? Would 10W/40W be ok?
>
> Richard Cooperman
> New '65 Healey Owner
> '67 Morgan 4/4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 09:03:08 -0700
Subject: RE: lemans headlamps
Lemans headlights have a clear lens with the words Lemans in script on them.
The look cool, but aren't all that great in performance in my opinion. For
high performance, maybe something more than 55 watt bulbs are necessary.
They probably aren't legal either. Mine had been on a shelf for a long time
and the silvering was slightly tarnished. They had to be cleaned with
alcohol and a long Qtip.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 09:34:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Transmission Oil
Make that 2-STROKE oil
Brian Mix wrote:
> Go to your friendly motor cycle shop and get stroke transmission oil. NOT the
> kind you add to gas but the kind they use in the transmission made for a wet
> clutch like the one in your overdrive.
>
> Brian
>
> Peter Schauss wrote:
>
> > Common wisdom is to use 30 weight nondetergent oil. The idea is
> > that the detergents in the oil will pick up all the crud which has
> > been sitting in the corners of the gearbox and put it into circulation,
> > possibly clogging some of the small passages in the overdrive.
> > Nondetergent oil will leave it all where it is. With detergent oil,
> > there is also some concern about foaming (I think).
> >
> > The down side of using straight 30 weight is that the synchros may not
> > work well in cold weather until the car warms up.
> >
> > Good luck with your Healey.
> >
> > Peter Schauss
> > Long Island, NY
> > 1980 MGB
> > 1963 BJ7
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of RCooperman@aol.com
> > Sent: Monday, October 01, 2001 10:04 AM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Transmission Oil
> >
> > I have recently purchased a 1965 Austin Healey 3000 with O/D. As part of my
> > initial maintenance I am planning on replacing all fluids including the
> > transmission and O/D oil.
> >
> > The owner's manual indicates use of multigrade engine oil. The car is based
> > in the mid-Atlantic states and will see winter. What is the collective
> > wisdom as to what grade of oil I should use? Would 10W/40W be ok?
> >
> > Richard Cooperman
> > New '65 Healey Owner
> > '67 Morgan 4/4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 10:29:02 -0700
Subject: FW: Inca Trail info
I see that there is a AH 3000 in the event as well.
Ken Freese
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Smith [mailto:smiths.flightsrest@virgin.net]
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2001 3:47 AM
To: 'jensen-cars@british-steel. org'
Subject: Inca Trail
Hello all,
It's Sunday morning now and I shall be flying off to Rio tonight. I hope the
C-V8 is waiting at the docks for me. This is for the 16,000 mile 'Inca
trail' Rally around South America. I have just received the first volume of
the route book and the first 12 days at least (out of 8 weeks) look like a
car and driver/navigator breaker. The start is on the 6th October and if
anybody is interested in further information or following our progress, this
can be seen on the HERO (Historic Endurance Rallying Organisation) web site
www.hero.org.uk, I'm sorry I haven't put my own personal details on that
site yet. Jean will also be trying to keep this group up to date with my own
adventures.
I would like to thank everybody that has sent me their best wishes.
Cheerio for now,
Alan (car No. 45).
_______________________________________________________________________
Courtesy the Jensen-cars mailing list. Subscribe and unsubscribe
info at: <http://www.british-steel.org/faq/jensen-cars.html>.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 16:04:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Transmission Oil
Richard,
I would use 30 wt non detergent. This is what I use in my BN4 and Allen uses
in his BJ8.
Jrerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
BN4
JH-5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 16:52:03 -0400
Subject: Finishing Metal wire-harness holders
Gang:
What do people recommend for finishing the metal clips that hold the wire
harness in place? How about those large round washers that hold the asbestos
panels in place?
I tried doing the home plating kit on them but they came out too flat a gray
color, and I've resorted to buffing them out with a soft wire wheel. I'm
afraid they will eventually tarnish or rust. I was thinking about nickel
plating them all.
I saw some new ones that were finished with a yellowish anodized type finish
(looks like the finish on hardened US bolts). Not original at all, and sort
of icky. I don't want to chrome plate them, but I'd like to keep the shine
I have now.
Any suggestions? This is for a best of show type restoration as opposed to a
true 'original' restoration.
Ryan
64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 16:53:42 -0400
Subject: E-Mail Flow is down. Is it just me?
Are people having trouble receiving emails from the list? I am getting
about 3 or 4 a day versus the usual 15-20. If it remains light, Can I
submit my miniscule and esoteric questions that continue to vex me?
Ryan
64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Johnsen, Bernard" <JOHNSBE2 at mail.northgrum.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 17:06:02 -0400
Subject: RE: Transmission Oil
A while back, (April 1999), Jim Werner recommended using
ISO 150 Machine Oil. Has anybody else used this in their
transmissions ?
- Bernie Johnsen, future DPO 1967 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 17:08:09 -0400
Subject: Re: E-Mail Flow is down. Is it just me?
We are too busy watching CNN and deciding if we are very depressed or
just plain scared.
Ledwith, Ryan S [FI] wrote:
>Are people having trouble receiving emails from the list? I am getting
>about 3 or 4 a day versus the usual 15-20. If it remains light, Can I
>submit my miniscule and esoteric questions that continue to vex me?
>
>Ryan
>64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at blazenet.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 17:21:10 -0400
Subject: Re: neckties
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> The Lands End tie is no longer in production. However, I've got a better
> lead. I bought a tie this summer (at a men's store; can't remember which one)
> that has on it Healeys (BJ8 Series 2), XK120s, Triumph TR3s, and MG TCs. On
> the back it's labeled "Classic Ragtops" circle-C Alynn Neckwear Creative
> American Design Stamford CT 800-252-5966. Would make a nice Christmas gift
> for a car lover. (I have no interests in this firm and they don't even
> advertise with us.)
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, British Car Magazine
>
Triple C has both big Healey and Bugeye ties. Check their website at
http://www.triple-c.com.
Charlie Baldwin
'62 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 17:51:44 EDT
Subject: Re: E-Mail Flow is down. Is it just me?
Ryan,
keep submitting your questions...someone else out there may have the same
ones but be afraid to ask them...
Dave
'59 BT 7
In a message dated 10/01/2001 1:56:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com writes:
> Are people having trouble receiving emails from the list? I am getting
> about 3 or 4 a day versus the usual 15-20. If it remains light, Can I
> submit my miniscule and esoteric questions that continue to vex me?
>
> Ryan
> 64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 18:04:21 -0400
Subject: RE: E-Mail Flow is down. Is it just me?
Well, I'll tell you my perspective from 5 blocks north of the Trade Center:
I'm just plain pissed. No suggestions on what to do about it or to whom. I
don't give a s&(**Q!@# about those who did it, and just wonder why they give
a !@# about us.
This morning I watched them haul out several semi loads with stacks of
twisted I beams that were at least 18" wide, saw a flatbed truck with 6
smashed cars, and can see the surrounding buildings with windows blown out
and facade damaged. I also walk by 7 World Trade Center's steaming heap,
which was my building 2 years ago.
I don't feel like being at work, playing my guitar or going on bike rides.
All I'm comfortable doing is working on my car. Some psychologist could
figure out why. I think it is because I am making progress putting something
back together.
I did show my 9 year old how to weld this weekend. Maybe that's getting back
to normal.
Ryan
From: Robert J. Denton [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
We are too busy watching CNN and deciding if we are very depressed or
just plain scared.
Ledwith, Ryan S [FI] wrote:
>Are people having trouble receiving emails from the list? I am getting
>about 3 or 4 a day versus the usual 15-20. If it remains light, Can I
>submit my miniscule and esoteric questions that continue to vex me?
>
>Ryan
>64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 15:12:06 -0700
Subject: RE: Finishing Metal wire-harness holders
Ryan,
With some scotch brite, you can remove the yellow and they will look much
better.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 17:21:50 -0500
Subject: Re: neckties
Greetings All:
Gary's suggestion was great but unfortunately Alynn Neckwear at
http://www.alyann.com no longer carries the "Classic Ragtop" tie
according to their customer relations person. I did suggest to
her that there was an interest in this product and took the
liberty to forward Gary's e-mail to her. Hopefully if a few more
Healey lovers visit the web site and use their e-mail "contact
us", the company the product may be reproduce the tie - well I
can only dream, eh!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> The Lands End tie is no longer in production. However, I've got a better
> lead. I bought a tie this summer (at a men's store; can't remember which one)
> that has on it Healeys (BJ8 Series 2), XK120s, Triumph TR3s, and MG TCs. On
> the back it's labeled "Classic Ragtops" circle-C Alynn Neckwear Creative
> American Design Stamford CT 800-252-5966. Would make a nice Christmas gift
> for a car lover. (I have no interests in this firm and they don't even
> advertise with us.)
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 20:01:38 -0400
Subject: Jacking up a BJ8
Hi Listers,
Just got a 66' BJ8 and I need to replace the damaged knock offs. Having
never had them on my previous cars I was wondering if you should loosen
them before you jack up the car or remove them all at once when the tire is
up. How do you know when they are tight when putting them back on?
Also, where is the correct jack-up point on a phase 2 car? Iv'e heard under
the radius spring but there are 2 "U" bolts here and no room for a jack! I
don't want to damage the frame by putting a jack in the wrong place! Thanks
in advance....
Scot
66' BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 17:15:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Finishing Metal wire-harness holders
Ryan-
Zinc plating gives an original finish for most applications.....a sort of dull
silver-grey. Note that this will degrade with time and exposure to elements, as
this is a sacrificial coating. I can't comment on the original finish of the
wire harness clips....the new ones I've seen are bright cadmium plated (yellow
finish), which gives a much more durable corrosion coating. Anodizing, btw, is
a finish for aluminum, not steel.
However, if you are not concerned with original finish, in preference to "show",
then, uh, have it all gold plated!
Be wary of hydrogen embrittlement, induced by many plating processes, for
fasteners that you don't want to fail. For high strength steel aircraft
applications, we post-plate bake the parts for 23 hours @400 deg F, to ensure no
hydrogen embrittlement. This is for steel heat treated to 200 KSI tensile,
which is very finicky stuff. Probably not so critical for higher carbon steels
found in most old fasteners.
Fred Meyer
Longbridge BN4
"Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" wrote:
> Gang:
>
> What do people recommend for finishing the metal clips that hold the wire
> harness in place? How about those large round washers that hold the asbestos
> panels in place?
>
> I tried doing the home plating kit on them but they came out too flat a gray
> color, and I've resorted to buffing them out with a soft wire wheel. I'm
> afraid they will eventually tarnish or rust. I was thinking about nickel
> plating them all.
>
> I saw some new ones that were finished with a yellowish anodized type finish
> (looks like the finish on hardened US bolts). Not original at all, and sort
> of icky. I don't want to chrome plate them, but I'd like to keep the shine
> I have now.
>
> Any suggestions? This is for a best of show type restoration as opposed to a
> true 'original' restoration.
>
> Ryan
> 64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 20:50:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Jacking up a BJ8
Hi, Scott -
It's easier to get a knockoff loosened if you do it before jacking the wheel
off the ground. Since I replaced all my knockoffs in 1990, my technique
for tightening them has been never to hit them directly with a hammer (even
a lead hammer). I use a piece of 2 x 4 against the knockoff and hit that
with the hammer. So far, I have no marks at all on the knockoffs from
loosening/tightening them (and also no marks on the lead hammer). I
tighten them as much as possible before lowering the wheel, then finish with
the wheel on the ground. Use the hammer until the knockoff does not appear
to move when you hit it. The knockoffs tend to tighten on the wheel during
normal use.
If you wish, you can make a small "slip mark" on the knockoff and wheel by
using a dot of nail polish or paint on the knockoff and a corresponding mark
on the wheel. With just a glance at these, you can tell if the knockoff
ever starts to loosen. I have never seen one loosen, but the marks do show
that the knockoff tightens itself while you drive. You can make these marks
so small that only you will ever know they are there.
I also use pieces of 2 x 4 (about a foot long) between the jack and the
jack point to spread out the load and avoid damage to the frame. In the
front, I jack up under the spring pan, and in the rear on the frame cross
member just behind the rear wheels. Using the wood to spread the loads, you
can jack just about anywhere on the frame that you can fit a jack (and wood)
under.
Works for me.
Steve Byers
HBJ8/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healey Owners" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2001 8:01 PM
Subject: Jacking up a BJ8
>
> Hi Listers,
> Just got a 66' BJ8 and I need to replace the damaged knock offs. Having
> never had them on my previous cars I was wondering if you should loosen
> them before you jack up the car or remove them all at once when the tire
is
> up. How do you know when they are tight when putting them back on?
> Also, where is the correct jack-up point on a phase 2 car? Iv'e heard
under
> the radius spring but there are 2 "U" bolts here and no room for a jack! I
> don't want to damage the frame by putting a jack in the wrong place!
Thanks
> in advance....
>
> Scot
> 66' BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 21:11:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Finishing Metal wire-harness holders
Ryan wrote:<snip>
What do people recommend for finishing the metal clips that hold the wire
> harness in place? How about those large round washers that hold the
asbestos
> panels in place?
>
> I tried doing the home plating kit on them but they came out too flat a
gray
> color, and I've resorted to buffing them out with a soft wire wheel
I tried the Eastwood's home plating kit as noted on this list about a year
ago. Their kit comes with a "zinc like" tin alloy sacrificial strip which
results in what you noted here.
Since then, I've been able to get hold of some pure zinc in the form of
solidified splash from a steel mill. This stuff works great!
Plating is very quick, about 20 seconds, and after the water rinse, drying
and rubbing slightly with an old terrycloth towel brings the parts up like
new. Dull is gone resulting in a nice silvery sheen. Seems to be very
durable too.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 18:39:11 -0700
Subject: Fwd: Re: Healey Models
Oops. I misunderstood Steve's request.
>From: DKirby210@aol.com
>Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 21:06:44 EDT
>Subject: Re: Healey Models
>CC: rsnover@ix.netcom.com (Rick Snover)
>
>Hi--
>
>Sorry, this has gotten "way out of hand". I only met for the notice to go to
>our local Healey club.
>
>I'm getting requests from all over the world!!!
>
>I don't have pictures of all the other cars, I don't have a web site, in fact
>I only brought back one model for myself (a 3000), and a list of the others.
>I'm unable to answer all these detail questions about "how many lights" etc.
>are their on this model and that model.
>
>All I had wanted to do was make a simple list amongst our club members, bring
>them to a meeting and "be done with it!" I'm not in the toy/model business,
>nor do I want to be (although there is apparently a market out there!!!)
>
>I work "full time and a half" and really don't have time to be shipping these
>things all over the world.
>
>Sorry to have mis led anybody -- never dreamed this was going to "go out
>there" so far.
>
>Thanks for the reply, and don't mean to sound harsh, but I just can't
>"handle" all the questions, requests for photos, on-line order forms, "please
>send to . . . . " , etc.
>
>Steve
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA
<http://www.netcom.com/~rsnover>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 18:22:12 +0100
Subject: Re: Top Latch
Doug
1A 9308 is the part number for the Rubber Grommet that fits around the
rear bumper left hand spring bar on the 100 and most, if not all, of the
six cylinder cars. 1A 9307 is the right hand version. It sounds as
though you have something where the part number and description have
been muddled up.
Incidentally, for those interested the 1A part numbers were first
generated on smaller Austin Saloons. In this case these grommets were
first used on the A40 Somerset.
All the best
>Can someone tell me what car a 1A 9308 Ferrule (top latch) fits? Would it
>be for a 100-4 or the six cylinder cars? Thanks.
>
>Happy Healeying,
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:27:06 -0400
Subject: WTC Tribute
For a nice tribute to the emergency services personnel of New York, go to the
followint site.
http://usa.corporateclicks.com
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BlkBT7 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 10:58:32 EDT
Subject: Re: FW: Inca Trail info
I haven't looked at the entry list lately, but Rick Dyke-Price and his wife
were
entered in the Inca Trail. Rick is from the U.K. and drove the same car in
the
Around the World in 80 Cars event last year. Nice guy, nice car and this
time
the Inca Trail with his wife, a brave man!
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 13:18:14 -0500
Subject: Inca Trail
Bob wrote >Around the World in 80 Cars event last year. Nice guy, nice car
and this
time
the Inca Trail with his wife, a brave man!<
Must be a wealthy one, also!
Don BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bob & bev hatcher" <bandbhatcher at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 09:46:20 +1000
Subject: Crankcase breather pipe
Hi All
My BN1 recently started coating the underside with more than the usual
amount of oil. A cleanup and test run showed that the rear engine seal and
gearbox front seal are not leaking any more than usual but there is
definitely oil coming out of the crankcase breather pipe.
The car is running very well and no recent work has been done on it that
might have caused the increase in oil loss.
My first thought is that I must be getting a buildup in pressure within the
crankcase, possibly from worn or broken rings, and plan to do a compression
test as the first step in trying to identify the problem.
Are there any other possibilities that I should check? Any advice would be
appreciated.
Bob Hatcher
BN1
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 19:02:32 -0700
Subject: Desperately Seeking '61 BT7 Generator Bracket
Fellow Healey Owners-
Anyone out there have a spare generator bracket that I can buy? The bracket
on my car is apparently off of a BJ8? Fact is it has part number AEC2163 or
it may be ALC2163 stamped into it. Followed immediately by a triangle and
then a "1". I fellow Healey Clubmate and I discussed this at great length
and he is sure I need the bracket (by the way this is the cast-iron bracket
that bolts to the block with the two loops) that is part number AEC689. The
dimensions of these two parts vary by about a quarter of an inch and believe
me that's a world of difference. Anyway I am quickly becoming resigned that
this car will NOT be attending the Oct 7th British Car Day event here in San
Diego, and the realization of this nearly made me weep. Or maybe that was
the frustration of removing my generator 11 times today. Anyhow I sincerely
appreciate you having taken the time to read this. Let me know if anyone
has this part (AEC689) on a parts motor or? Also if you have any good leads
on where to look for one? Moss is saying special order only with at least a
5 week wait.
Thanks!
Matt-
1961 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 22:44:55 -0400
Subject: Fw: The BIG Threat
Just for grins.
Keith Pennell
<<The Big Threat.jpg>>
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of The
Big Threat.jpg]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 23:37:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Crankcase breather pipe
Bob Hatcher wrote:
My BN1 recently started coating the underside with more than the usual
> amount of oil. A cleanup and test run showed that the rear engine seal and
> gearbox front seal are not leaking any more than usual but there is
> definitely oil coming out of the crankcase breather pipe.
>
> The car is running very well and no recent work has been done on it that
> might have caused the increase in oil loss.
>
> My first thought is that I must be getting a buildup in pressure within
the
> crankcase, possibly from worn or broken rings, and plan to do a
compression
> test as the first step in trying to identify the problem.
>
> Are there any other possibilities that I should check? Any advice would
be
> appreciated.
Check the oil feed pipe to the rocker shaft. I had one come loose (stripped
threads inside the alloy rocker pedistal from a previous owner) causing
copious amounts of oil to spew topside. The cure was replacing the stripped
out pedistal along with new copper packing washers, and not overtightening
the banjo bolt. Worth checking anyway.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 23:06:52 -0700
Subject: 19th Orange county Concours d'Elegance
Listers:
In case you did not know,
the Orange County (ex Newport Beach) Concours is
this Sunday October 7th at the Oaks Polo Field
in San Juan Capistrano.
East of the 405 Freeway.
Featured Marque: Jaguar
Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 05:33:18 -0500
Subject: U.K. LSR and the Campbell clan...
I had the opportunity this weekend to repay a kindness to the Brits by
giving Donald Wales a ride in my Camaro.... Donald's uncle was a fella
named Donald Campbell.... his Grand dad was some fella named Sir Malcolm
Campbell..... and they were a couple of the folks that gave Donald Healey
the itch to go to a place called Bonneville and set some records.... Of
course it was Donald Healey's exploits that got me interested in this stuff
in the first place..... so it seems life comes full circle now and again
doesn't it?
Donald Wales goals are to run an electric streamliner to 300mph in the
future. ( he currently owns the electric car record in the UK at 142mph) To
do this at Bonneville one has to make several lic. passes on the salt or
acquire a lic. elsewhere at one of the 3 approved sites..... Maxton and the
ECTA of course being one of them.... I was approached by Malcolm Pittwood
to aid Donald in getting his first Two lic passes.... one at 125 and the
second at 150...... Here is the break down on how it went.
Picked the Yahoo's up at the Motel..... found a radical problem
communicating .... they had this really strange way of using the english
language..... okay fair enough.... I speak Hick.... we'll get by I
suppose.... off to the track and our initial practices in the car.... fire
drill sorta stuff.... here are what switches go where and what puts the big
Fires out.... hmmm "DONALD.... Ya don't understand.... that is where the
passenger seat would be if we had one.... OTHERSIDE YAHOO" Big Grins....
HEY Donald.... have you ever shifted with your RIGHT hand? yes Don.... you
HAVE to do this 5 times with a Six speed..... Geez is this going to be a
LONG DAY..... ( thinking of a monkey and a football bout this point.... But
they even got that comment wrong.... Lots of laughing going on here)
Finally get our first pass in the 140mph range.... we had a D lic. Second
Pass..... 157mph like he had done it a million times before... C lic...
Done... Perfect... so now we are sitting around looking at each other
going what are we going to do with our time..... Hmmm I had to totally
rebuild the car in a Month as I had lost both my Race day motors at
Bonneville this year and the 6 speed as well as the rear suspension.... I
didn't have time or the finances to put a race day motor in the car and the
Mule Motor just doesn't really have enough in it to get up to 175 for the B
lic..... kind of a bummer really...... So we are hanging out with another
Pal of mine who own's a Bush Grand national car.... and the next thing you
know we are bolting Donald into the seat..... Yep he goes 190mph and gets
his B lic..... PERFECT..... now all he has to do on the salt is check out
the car and make his first pass at 200mph.... thereby limiting Battery
issues associated with his type of race car.....
I can't even begin to tell you what all of this was like for me
personally.... to help a legendary tradition of racing continue into the
future... to be part of something like this was truly wonderful.... and the
fact that Donald Wales and Malcolm happen to be great folks just put a bit
of icing on the cake..... we had a damn Blast...
Just had to share it with you folks.....
Keith Turk ( why yes I speak English....it's those blame limey's got it all
wrong.... but I set a couple of them on the straight and narrow )
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brian Collins" <bcolins at airmail.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 19:42:29 -0500
Subject: Healey V8 KIT?
I was talking with a friend who owns a restoration shop for Historically
significant cars yesterday and told him that I had recently purchased a
100-4 for conversion to V8.
He mentioned that he recalled A shop offering a pre-built Healey V8 Kit
10-20 years ago. He thought they were out of Southern Cal.
Anyone know anything about this and if so, do they still exist?
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 09:49:07 EDT
Subject: Paint supplier in Houston?
Hi Listers,
I am about ready to shoot some repair work on my Jag. I am new to Houston and
I am not yet familiar with the local auto paint suppliers. I am not interested
in any one particular brand, so any supplier information you can give me will
help. Anyone have any favorite suppliers?
Thanks,
Chris
XJ6
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 10:07:30 -0500
Subject: <G> No LBC
http://www.fieler.com/terror/
Enjoy!!!
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Louis Galper <lgalper1 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 08:50:14 -0700
Subject: Vintage Automotive Engineering-Everett Smith
Re: Vintage Automotive Engineering-Everett Smith
This guy did an extremely excellent job on my BN1 rear wings which I
shipped to him. (straighten crash damage & new doglegs)
http://www.vintageautomotive.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 11:46:03 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey V8 KIT?
Brian,
Max Balchowsky probably did a lot at his shop in Hollywood, but he is gone
now. Hurst may have had suitable transmission adapters or somesuch, but not
likely.
Ken Freese
65 3000
"Subject: Healey V8 KIT
He mentioned that he recalled A shop offering a pre-built Healey V8 Kit
10-20 years ago. He thought they were out of Southern Cal."
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 12:40:36 -0700
Subject: metalcrafter in southern California
Hi all,
I think I posted some info on this craftsman before but now I have a
website link:
http://www.eurotechmetalcraft.net/
He's making some prototypes for me right now and does amazing work.
Also, planning on having him remove a few pounds of bondo from my BJ7
next year.
Cheers,
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 12:42:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Desperately Seeking '61 BT7 Generator Bracket
Matt,
I have a AEC689 bracket on my spare BJ7 engine that you can borrow until you
find a proper replacement. The ears have been brazed back on at some point in
it's life so it doesn't look great but it should function just fine. I live and
work in Laguna Beach so you could come by to pick it up or I perhaps I could pop
it in the mail for you.
Let me know.
John Loftus
949 494-0111
Matt Wilson wrote:
> Fellow Healey Owners-
> Anyone out there have a spare generator bracket that I can buy? The bracket
> on my car is apparently off of a BJ8? Fact is it has part number AEC2163 or
> it may be ALC2163 stamped into it. Followed immediately by a triangle and
> then a "1". I fellow Healey Clubmate and I discussed this at great length
> and he is sure I need the bracket (by the way this is the cast-iron bracket
> that bolts to the block with the two loops) that is part number AEC689. The
> dimensions of these two parts vary by about a quarter of an inch and believe
> me that's a world of difference. Anyway I am quickly becoming resigned that
> this car will NOT be attending the Oct 7th British Car Day event here in San
> Diego, and the realization of this nearly made me weep. Or maybe that was
> the frustration of removing my generator 11 times today. Anyhow I sincerely
> appreciate you having taken the time to read this. Let me know if anyone
> has this part (AEC689) on a parts motor or? Also if you have any good leads
> on where to look for one? Moss is saying special order only with at least a
> 5 week wait.
> Thanks!
> Matt-
> 1961 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 15:55:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey V8 KIT?
In a message dated 10/3/01 4:54:15 AM, bcolins@airmail.net writes:
<< told him that I had recently purchased a
100-4 for conversion to V8.
He mentioned that he recalled A shop offering a pre-built Healey V8 Kit
10-20 years ago. He thought they were out of Southern Cal. >>
We're assuming that the 100 has no engine or transmission in it at present,
and can't be restored to its original configuration -- i.e. it's already been
cut and rewelded to accept a V8 engine.
If that's not the case, you may be better off finding a Healey where the
conversion has already been done -- or at least attempted -- and fixing it
up. Taking a perfectly good Healey and converting it to V8 power is too
expensive to be worthwhile and results in yet another Healey being lost to
the world.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
FROM: Ge Aagten <gaagten at hetnet.nl>
Date: 3 Oct 2001 22:03:19 +0200
SUBJECT: âøõýej¥Sól
Sb¨G`j 69ðö÷ñ4\[óôFãAû}¤r_l^
Bxu}ej%Ssl
Sb(G`j 69pvw q4\[stFcA{}
$r_l^DV'SU3/(@)syR$ZkWU)P>z|k/g"jK]1('S&j .
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had
a name of UNREGASF.EXE]
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had
a name of DC21.DOC]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 13:31:32 -0700
Subject: Generator Bracket for 1961 BT7 - Found !!
Thanks Healey People-
I wanted to first thank EVERYONE that responded to my post regarding my
needing a generator bracket (AEC689) for my '61 BT7. I am always amazed the
quickness and kindness of people on this board and I look forward to one day
returning the favors. I was able to find the part I needed from British Car
Specialists http://britishcarspecialists.com/index.html . The part wasn't
cheap, in fact it cost me dearly, but they had it and I may even have it in
time for British Car Day. I have the generator up in Orange California at
British Auto being rebuilt/restored. Jerry at Brit. Auto also hopes to be
done in time for the weekend. Through the Austin Healey Club of San Diego I
was able to find a correct generator with correct dates for my '61 BT7 and
so I guess when all is said and done at least I will know it was done right.
Anyway... thanks again everyone and Happy motoring.
Matt-
'61 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 17:51:41 -0500
Subject: Healey's 4 Sale in Houston
Hey Listers,
Just thought I'd pass along some ads that appeared in the Houston paper today
in case someone is looking for a car. I've included the other Brits as well.
There's no financial interest here just passing them along. I'm in Houston
during the week and can take a look at them if anyone is interested.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
--------------------------------
'62 AH Sprite Mk II, Exc cond. red/blk, extras $4,000 281-584-9547
'59 Austin Healey 100-6 show car, exc cnd, new tires, $19,500 281-373-5302 or
713-974-5903
'57 AC Bristol, fully restored, exc cnd, rare 100D engine $69,500 281-373-5302
or 713-974-5903
'72 Jag XKE conv, exc cnd, 18K orig ml, $29,500 281-5302 or 713-974-5903
'77 MG Midget conv. All orig, nice, runs good $3,750 firm 281-489-1623
'80 Triumph TR7, nice car, new paint, new top $2,700 713-290-1630
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healey3000MKII at aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 08:33:49 EDT
Subject: BT7 for sale
Please contact me off list if interested .........
1962 3000 mk II..............10,500.00
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TimWardUK at aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 09:55:25 EDT
Subject: Electronic Ignition
Hi
I would like to fit a conversion to my BJ8 and Frogeye. However, the only
product that I have found that fits entirely inside the Distributor is the
Lumenition Magnetronic System (their Optronic System has boxes outside the
Distributor and is therefore not what I want), but this is only available for
Negative Earth wiring.
Can anyone recommend a conversion that fits entirely into the Distributor and
which works with a Positive Earth. UK sourcing would be great.
Thanks
Tim
Tim Ward
Warwick House
12 Mill Road
Kislingbury
Northants. NN7 4BB
Tel/Fax: 44.1604.832.901
E-Mail: TimWardUk@aol.com
Mobile: 44.7855.388.751
www.TimWardAssociates.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Wright" <duntov1 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 13:03:59 -0500
Subject: DJ Stamp
Does anyone have
D.J. Stamp's
(from Austin, TX)
e.mail address.
Thanx ahead of time.
Richard Wright
Dallas
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 13:41:25 -0500
Subject: Pulling Engine
Listers,
I've pulled a few engines in my life but never anything as heavy as my
Healey 3000.
Is it acceptable to use the 2 valve cover studs to attach my Orberg engine
leveler to.
I will be removing the engine with the trany attached. Seems like a lot of
weight for two studs that size to handle safely. Am I wrong?
Thanks , Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 13:34:21 -0500
Subject: Engine stands
Listers,
I'm sure this question has been around before, but I can't find the
answer.
What is approx. weight of a Healey 3000 engine and will my 1000 lb. capacity
engine stand handle it. Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 11:48:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Engine rebuilding help
It looks like I will be rebuilding the engine in my
bj8 sooner rather than later. The number 3 cylinder
exhaust valve is not sealing, compression reads 85lbs.
The other cylinders are reading 150lbs.
I am thinking of "souping up" the engine and was
thinking of the following:
Head:
Increase in compression ratio to 10 to 1.
Thre way competion valve job.
Matching ports to gaskets int/ex.
Mild porting and polishing.
Denis Welch's Road/Rally cam ENG 656 or
Isky Cams BMCT36 cam.
Tubular exhaust headers.
Carburetion ??? Stock or triple Webers???
This is my first engine rebuild and I have a lot of
questions:
Can anyone recommend a machine shop in Houston, Texas
that knows how to prepare Healeys.
Has anyone done a similar rebuild like what I am
considering?
What cam did you use?
What about rocker arms, pushrods and lifters?
What size valves?
The questions go on and on.
If any of you have been down this road please contact
me I need help.
Thanks
Jorge
bj8 with a hissing exhaust valve.
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 12:07:05 -0700
Subject: RE: Engine rebuilding help
Do you have any idea what caused the valve to burn? You don't want the cause
to be present in the rebuild.
Ken Freese
--
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 15:17:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine rebuilding help
Sounds like fun. For my money, I'd stick to stock carbs unless you intended
primarily to race the car -- while the Webers look neat, they're not nearly
as flexible for everyday use -- they're designed to work best full on (the
throat is a fixed size) where the SUs have a variable throat size (governed
by the piston) and so are much more tractible when idling through town at 35
mph.
All the other mods sound good (wish I could have afforded them when I rebuilt
my engine.) I would add a lightened flywheel to the list.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
In a message dated 10/4/01 11:49:58 AM, fortee9er@yahoo.com writes:
<< Increase in compression ratio to 10 to 1.
Thre way competion valve job.
Matching ports to gaskets int/ex.
Mild porting and polishing.
Denis Welch's Road/Rally cam ENG 656 or
Isky Cams BMCT36 cam.
Tubular exhaust headers.
Carburetion ??? Stock or triple Webers??? >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 12:28:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Pulling Engine
Mark,
Having just completed this a couple of weeks ago let
me share some lessons learned.
Yes the two valve cover studs will hold the engine
plus transmission. Be sure they are tight.
I used a load leveler that I picked up at Harbor
Freight for 39.00. If your leveler has a handle on
the end make sure you face it toward the back of the
car because the engine will really have to be angled
to get it free from around the shroud. We learned
this the hard way... And keep it oiled.
Also, be sure to disconnect the exhaust manifolds from
the down pipes. We tried to save some time and left
them attached only to fight with them all the way out.
in the end I think we disconnected them to save from
scratching away more engine compartment paint.
We were using a 2 ton lift and that seemed to be about
the minimum. I'm not sure I would attempt it with a
smaller one. We had it maxed out (all the way
extended) and still had to lift the tail over the
engine compartment quite a bit. Also, make sure you
have at least one heavy person around to add some dead
weight to the base of the hoist just to make you feel
better.
Oh yes and finally, it is better to push the car away
from the hoist rather than pulling the hoist forward,
so be sure that the car has plenty of room behind it.
Good luck.
Dean
BN7
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 15:44:21 -0400
Subject: Location of steel staple
Does anyone out there know what the exact coordinates(linear
measurements)are for the spare tire strap staple at the bottom of the
trunk? My restored BJ8 does not have the pre-drilled holes for the staple
so I have to make them.I'm trying to put it just where the factory did.Any
help would be appreciated. Thanks.....
Scot
66' BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 14:54:50 -0500
Subject: RE: Engine stands
Hi,
Engine with gearbox is 700 lbs for a 6-cylinder. I'd guess the gearbox is
around 150 lbs but I have never actually weighed it.
While your engine stand will handle it, be prepared for the extreme
off-center nature of the load. Most V8's seem to balance well on the stand
but this brute is different.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net]
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 11:34 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Engine stands
Listers,
I'm sure this question has been around before, but I can't find the
answer.
What is approx. weight of a Healey 3000 engine and will my 1000 lb. capacity
engine stand handle it. Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 13:58:18 -0600
Subject: RE: Pulling Engine
Hi,
When I pulled mine I agonized over that as well. I chickened out and opted
to remove the head first. This not only reduces weight but it also gives
you much more clearance between the back and the firewall, important when
you start tilting the engine.
I also installed it that way as I didn't want to chance damaging the paint.
It went in without touching anything and I'm pretty sure the head would have
caused trouble (I was doing it alone).
I purchased solid eyes from McMaster Carr that screwed right into the head
stud holes in the block. Peace of mind.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net]
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 11:41 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Pulling Engine
Listers,
I've pulled a few engines in my life but never anything as heavy as my
Healey 3000.
Is it acceptable to use the 2 valve cover studs to attach my Orberg engine
leveler to.
I will be removing the engine with the trany attached. Seems like a lot of
weight for two studs that size to handle safely. Am I wrong?
Thanks , Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 15:56:37 -0500
Subject: Two BN1 problems and a question
I am beginning to understand my recently purchased BN1 and we are becoming
friends. I do have two (for now) issues that I need a little help with.
I am still unable to seal the oil leak from the valve cover. I have run the
engine with the cover removed and it is not "spurting" oil off the rockers.
I do have a substantial amount of pressure in the valve cover that I believe
it forcing the oil out. When I put my hand over the breather I can feel a
puff of air forcing it's way out. It is an aftermarket cover without the
side vent that would normally go to the air filter. Perhaps a leaky valve
or two or eight, ideas?
Next is, how in the heck do you get the wiper motor out? It is seemingly in
tight between the "shelf", welded on, and the top of the shroud under the
dash. Do the wiper boxes, motor and cable all come out together? Tips?
And finally, I read in Roger and Garry's book that the kidney shaped dash
section should be painted silver. Is that the silver like the Moss wire
wheel paint or something different?
Mark
Nashville
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 13:57:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine stands
Engine: 611 lbs, Standard Trany: 79.5 lbs, Trany w/OD: 117 lbs
(Autopress Repair Manual)
The Other Len
A guy who drives
a car wide open
Is not thinkin'
He's just hopin'
Burma Shave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: "'Mark and kathy LaPierre'" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 12:54 PM
Subject: RE: Engine stands
>
> Hi,
>
> Engine with gearbox is 700 lbs for a 6-cylinder. I'd guess the gearbox
is around 150 lbs....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 17:42:12 -0400
Subject: RE: Pulling Engine
Mark:
I threw a chain hoist onto my garage's attic ceiling joist. Before I lifted
the engine, I sister joisted two 2x6's with 3" screws, each 8' long, and
then propped it up with a pair of 2x4's at each side of the car just to be
sure I didn't bring down the garage.
I borrowed one of those chain hoists that you pull about 5' of chain for
each 1' of lift, which was very easy to use and didn't slip or risk tipping
like a cherry picker.
I've done it with the rent-a-hoist cherry picker and was nervous about it
tipping over. Backing the car away instead of rolling the hoist is
excellent advice.
Ryan
64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 15:55:41 -0600
Subject: new cooling product
No personal or financial connections
Thought this might be something many LBC owners might like to investigate..
http://.daviescraig.com.au/release_ebp.html
PS. my e-mail will be changing soon(?) So watch for a new address if trying
to reach me...y'all
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 14:47:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Pulling Engine
I like to load fasteners in shear. My approach was to pull the
manifolds and the generator mounting plate. I made up two plates
from 3/16" steel scrap to encompass three manifold studs at the rear
and all of the smaller studs that held the generator mounting plate to
the block. I needed a few washers to get some of the nuts clamping
the plate to the block. Another screw in shear with hand made
"washers" of 1/8" steel next to both head and nut gave the anchor
point to each lifting plate. A Harbor Freight 4ton? load leveler and
my cherry picker lift completed the job. I did the R & R by myself.
Slowly. And yes, Dean, I also learned the hard way where the handle
should go on the leveler :-) The diagonal lay of the lifter made the
engine and transmission want to twist a bit, but everything worked out
fine.
On the hundred, I made up brackets out of very heavy angle iron scrap
to pick up two head studs at each end of the head. Some clearance
holes for the water outlet studs, etc., were needed, too. John
Harper had sent me drawings of Austin brackets that would pick up
almost every head stud for lifting, but I was in too much of a hurry
to make one this time. I figured that four studs in tension were
better than two.
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
San Diego
On Thu, 4 Oct 2001 13:41:25 -0500, "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
:: Listers,
:: I've pulled a few engines in my life but never anything as heavy as my
:: Healey 3000.
:: Is it acceptable to use the 2 valve cover studs to attach my Orberg engine
:: leveler to.
:: I will be removing the engine with the trany attached. Seems like a lot of
:: weight for two studs that size to handle safely. Am I wrong?
::
:: Thanks , Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at netonecom.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 18:44:46 -0400
Subject: Tricky symptoms
Hi, Listers.
I just ran into something unusual, and thought I'd pass it on so others
might use the info.
Sympton 1: When I started the car, the first action of the starter was
a "grunt" typical of bad battery cables then it continued to crank totally
normal.
Sympton 2: When I turn the key on the clicking of the fuel pump was
erratic, from a few clicks to continuous, but the car always started.
Sympton 3: The car died completely about 1/2 mile from home. On a
hunch, I turned the master switch on and off several times, started it up and
drove home. I rebuilt the switch, and all the suytoms went away, but since I
found the red insulator block cracked, I got a new Lucas one. Now the car is
perfectly behaved.
From sympton 1 and 2, I never would have checked the master switch, and
probable would have bought/rebuilt a new fuel pump, cleaned the battery
terminals, and checked/rebuilt the starter. I hope someone struggling with
these symptoms can benefit from my experience.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 09:25:01 +1000
Subject: RE: Pulling Engine
G'day
My fading memory tells me that a bare 'C' Series engine weighs 612lbs making
it no lightweight.
I remember removing and refitting mine to the BN3 was almost impossible with
the 100 front shroud in place. It's actually easier to remove the shroud
first and then the engine.
After I removed the great lump of a thing it was pushed into the back of a
Mini Van I had at the time. The van certainly look a sight with its nose
stuck up in the air but the 848cc of throbbing raw BMC power had no problem
carting the engine all over Sydney.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net]
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 4:41 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Pulling Engine
Listers,
I've pulled a few engines in my life but never anything as heavy as my
Healey 3000.
Is it acceptable to use the 2 valve cover studs to attach my Orberg engine
leveler to.
I will be removing the engine with the trany attached. Seems like a lot of
weight for two studs that size to handle safely. Am I wrong?
Thanks , Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 21:05:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Pulling Engine
Hi all;
Austin C-series L6 engine 562 lbs [1]
Gearbox & Overdrive 121 lbs [2]
Total weight 683 lbs
Sources:
[1] Dave Williams version 93.11.14 on SOL web site;
- 1956 Austin Healey 100-6;
- referenced from Complete Handbook of Automotive Power Trains,
Jan Norbye, 1981
- what is not noted is if the figure is for a long block, a
complete and ready to run engine, or something in between.
[2] AHC [UK] Midland Centre; tech site
Of course, what would be nice is if somebody actually has verified
"quoted" weights by actually weighing the bloody thing.
Here are couple of other weights for a comparison:
Buick/Rover 215 V8 is 318 lbs
Rover 3.0 SOHC L6 is 432 lbs
Triumph 2.5 L6 is 403 lbs [TR6, GT6]
Ford 289/302 V8 is 460 lbs
Chevy small block V8 is 535 lbs ['59 Corvette 283 w/ alum. intake]
Interesting ! --Scott Morris
--- "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au> wrote: << My fading
memory tells me that a bare 'C' Series engine weighs 612lbs....>>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
Get your free @yahoo.ca address at http://mail.yahoo.ca
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at blazenet.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 21:10:24 -0400
Subject: Spare tire
I'm considering buying the Minilite replica 5 1/2" wide center lock
wheels for my BT7 tricarb. I can get them for a price that I can buy 5
for the normal price for 4 and thought it would be nice to use one on
the spare also.
Are there any clearance problems in the trunk with one of these wheels
and a 185/70-15 tire?
While we're at it are there any problems with that combination on the
car?
The only manufacturer that I've found for that size tire is Vredestein.
Does anyone know of another maker of 185/70-15?
Thanks,
Charlie
'62 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 21:18:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Pulling Engine
I've pulled my engine often... (3 times in one week this past June.. look up the
horror story in the archives if you want the details..)
I can tell you that most of the advice on the net has been exactly right.
People are nervous about the studs... so lots of folk juryrig some straps, or
connect to manifold studs (for shear forces instead of tension forces), or build
special brackets to attach to multiple studs, etc. etc.
I'm sure they have more peace of mind... but it isn't necessary.
First. The studs are quite strong, the right ones to use are the ones
recommended in the shop manual (i.e. the ones that hold the manifold cover)
Second. It is vital that screw whatever nut/washer or original manifold cover
nut down tight. DO NOT leave any threads exposed... (if you do leave threads
exposed you risk having a bent stud...)
Third. The Harbor Freight or any other tilt device really work and they do make
the job easier.
Fourth. The cherry picker needs to be as close to the front of the car as
possible.. You'll find the job easier if you've removed the front bumper...
Fifth. The job can be done solo. I do it that way quite often. However, I
sometimes have my wife lend a hand by just keeping an eye on clearances as the
lifting and tilting is performed, and she sometimes actually touches the engine
to just push it gently away from obstacles as the engine is lifted...
Sixth... do everything slowly... be sure you have wood under the transmission
brackets... as you lift, there is sometimes a tendency for the engine to slide
forward and it can remove the transmission bracket prematurely from its seat on
the frame... if this happens the tranny/overdrive are going to crash to the
floor.. If you have it properly tilt-balanced, it all swings clear and never
makes contact to the cement floor, but too often, on the first try you'll be
overlifting the front of the engine and won't have enough lift at the rear... I
do things very slowly, and frequently check on the residual weight holding the
tranny in place. Once the tranny gets "light" I carefully lift and push the
engine forward so it is off of the frame brackets and hanging below the car...
(here is where the piece of wood is nice... it is a gentle surface (compared to
concrete) and it can slide along the floor if you wish to move the engine
assembly towards the front of the car... (and you will once you clear the front
frame cross bar)...
Seventh... This engine and tranny do weigh a lot (engine is 611 or 612
lbs...depending on sources quoted, and the Tranny weighs around 122 lbs)... that
is a lot of mass if it swings at all, it will just keep going. So as you lift
it, if you try to pull the cherry picker away from the car, you tend to start
the
thing swinging... it is better to move the car... .. So: Keep this in mind
before
you start!!.. be sure before you start that you have room to push the car
backwards...
Eighth...You'll feel an adrenaline rush no matter how many times you've done
this... It is a nice feeling to successfully pull the engine.. so go have a beer
and smile at your accomplishments afterwards..:-)
Ninth... when reinstalling the engine, be sure to keep the engine lift in use to
keep the weight off of the engine blocks as you try to line up the bolts...
there
is a tendency for the legs of the engine mounting brackets to spread under the
full weight of the engine... if you get one set of bolts in, the others are hard
to put in if the engine weight is already on the bracket... so, keep the engine
hoist connected and relift the engine before putting in the remainder of the
bolts... once all 4 bolts are in each bracket, then you can release the hoist...
Ten:...the BEST feeling of accomplishment is when the engine goes back in...
(but
the whole thing is fun)..
enjoy...
-Skip-
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
> Listers,
> I've pulled a few engines in my life but never anything as heavy as my
> Healey 3000.
> Is it acceptable to use the 2 valve cover studs to attach my Orberg engine
> leveler to.
> I will be removing the engine with the trany attached. Seems like a lot of
> weight for two studs that size to handle safely. Am I wrong?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 12:01:51 +1000
Subject: RE: Pulling Engine
Nothing wrong with a length of stout rope tied around the engine a few times
front and back and connected to the hoist, pulley or whatever. You can even
lengthen the rope at the back to tilt the engine.
Hasn't fallen yet. However Australians do have a history of improvising.
Patrick Quinn
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 21:43:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Pulling Engine and Stands
Listers,
Thanks to all those who submitted their ideas and experiences to my
engine pulling questions. Many of them were very humorous and
entertaining, not to mention educational.
I feel I'm ready to go to battle against this BIG GREEN MONSTER now.
Thanks again, what a great list. Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 21:57:48 -0500
Subject: Head bolt torque
Listers,
The engine leveler I decided to use has four chain attachments to
hook onto the engine studs or bolts. If I use the four head studs in each
corner would it be advised to loosen all the head bolts an even amount or
can I just loosen the four in the corners without worrying about the head
warping.
Thanks again, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 21:27:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Spare tire
Charlie -
A few things. The best size tire to get for that
wheel is 185/75-R15. 70 profile is just a hair too
short. Trust me, the first set of radials I put on my
car was a set of 205/50's and I got nothing but
bottoming out everywhere (205/50s are probably about
the same height at a 185/70 once mounted on the rim).
Buy a few spare exhaust systems while you're at it.
Every last milimeter of clearance on these cars is
critical.
The 185/75 is very close to the original tire diameter
- so you won't have to recalibrate your speedo or
speedo drive. Another added benefit is the 185/75-R15
is relatively common and you will have a choice
between as many as 10 different types & brands of
tires. 185/75 is clearly the way to go - and if
handling is your key factor, I'm sure that you can
find a 185/75 that will handle same if not better than
the Vriedstien.
With a low profile like the 180/70 the car will handle
fantastic - but if you are using the car for driving
around town, a vreidstien 70 profile can wreak havoc
on your suspension over time. Particularly - the
shock mounts will likely start ripping off the shock
towers and your shock absorbers will wear out often
(the oil seals will wear from the stress). You want
to get good handling by tweaking the suspension, not
putting low profile sticky tires on the car.
As far as the spare goes - no, a 185/70 absolutely
WILL NOT fit in the trunk. The tire is too thick and
will keep the trunk propped open. The best spare to
get is the old 48 spoke 4 inch rim with either a
glassply (best fit) or standard 165-15 tire.
If you want to keep a 5th wheel, keep it in the garage
and rotate it on if neccessary, otherwise you really
only need 4 minilite wheels.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc@blazenet.net> wrote:
>
> I'm considering buying the Minilite replica 5 1/2"
> wide center lock
> wheels for my BT7 tricarb. I can get them for a
> price that I can buy 5
> for the normal price for 4 and thought it would be
> nice to use one on
> the spare also.
>
> Are there any clearance problems in the trunk with
> one of these wheels
> and a 185/70-15 tire?
>
> While we're at it are there any problems with that
> combination on the
> car?
>
> The only manufacturer that I've found for that size
> tire is Vredestein.
> Does anyone know of another maker of 185/70-15?
>
> Thanks,
> Charlie
> '62 BT7
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 00:26:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine rebuilding help
Jorge,
In addition to the notes you have already received I would recommend the use
of pieces of carpet or heavy blankets around the engine compartment opening.
Keith Pennell
> Thanks
> Jorge
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 01:30:39 -0400
Subject: Re Pulling the engine
In all these very helpfull notes on Pulling the Engine, I have not seen any
reference to the steering column. When I pulled the engine from my BJ7 (by
myself), the motor mounts had to be removed from the engine to clear the
steering shaft. Am I missing something?
Ken Mason
BJ7 (someday)
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 02:05:14 -0400
Subject: RE: Pulling Engine
I did mine that way - engine, gearbox, and overdrive.
When I went to pick up my rebuilt engine from The
Healey Surgeons, Bruce Phillips was moving it around his
shop with the engine crane attached to the two valve cover
studs.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Mark and kathy
LaPierre
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 2:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Pulling Engine
Listers,
I've pulled a few engines in my life but never anything as heavy as my
Healey 3000.
Is it acceptable to use the 2 valve cover studs to attach my Orberg engine
leveler to.
I will be removing the engine with the trany attached. Seems like a lot of
weight for two studs that size to handle safely. Am I wrong?
Thanks , Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Lisa & Mark <bugtop at home.com>
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 23:26:13 +0000
Subject: Re: Pulling engine
Not having pulled a Healey engine yet, I have no advice, but I'd just
like to reflect on that sweet feeling one gets when the car and engine
are clear of each other, (especially one with an aluminum shroud).
Nice.
Have fun Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 07:07:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine rebuilding help
Keith Pennell writes <<In addition to the notes you have already received I
would recommend the use of pieces of carpet or heavy blankets around the
engine compartment opening.>>
Great advice for engine removal. For normal work I use a common product found
in a fabric stores as a fender cover. (Guys who date women who quilt spend a
lot of time standing stupid in fabric stores).
It's heavy oilcloth with a cotton backing. Comes in a wide roll and I bought
several yards for about $15. I cut them to make a custom cover for the shroud
so that all areas around the engine compartment are protected. It won't stop
a dent from dropping the engine but it will provide more scratch protection
than just a fender cover.
I also wrap my sidecurtains with it and it makes a great emergency fender
cover on the road.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 08:35:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine stands
Hi Mark,
The engine stand should be able to handle the engine fine, but be sure to use
Grade 8 bolts, especially for the top. I have some spares laying around the
garage if you need any. Also, when pulling the engine, don't scratch that
beautiful paint job!!
Scott Helms
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 13:34:21 -0500
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Subject:
Listers,
I'm sure this question has been around before, but I can't find
theanswer.What is approx. weight of a Healey 3000 engine and will my 1000 lb.
capacity
engine stand handle it. Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 07:30:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Pulling Engine
One last thought after I read all the advice....... If you use a cherry
picker and tilt(which I did and thought was perfect), either find a cherry
picker with small enough wheels so it actually slides under the car or be
prepared to take some 2x6s and have the car sitting on them to give the
extra height... been there..
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 07:32:26 -0600
Subject: Non Healey LBC - Banks Garage, Christchurch
Any of our British friends know the reputation of Banks Garage in
Christchurch? I am considering them as a possible source for a mini .......
Thanks.
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 07:25:10 -0800
Subject: Re:Spare tire
Speaking of those imitation Minilites, I had an unpleasant experience with mine.
As I was changing lanes on the freeway, I felt a lot of swaying. Got home and
looked at my wheels. Right rear had had all 8 of the acorn nuts missing - the
ones fastening the wheel to the center-lock hub, so wheel was free to slide back
and forth on the bolts. Fortunately, it couldn't come all the way off, but, of
course, eventually the bolts would fracture and fail. I suppose some kindhearted
soul was trying to steel the wheel and couldn't get it off, or was just getting
his jollies stealing the nuts. Guess it's a good idea to do a walk-around, like
preflighting an aircraft, before jumping in the Healey and driving off. - John,
BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 10:56:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey V8 KIT?
Gary is absolutely correct. There is a kit car called a Sebring or
Sebring 5000 that is designed for a v-8 powerplant. This is an obvious
better choice than destroying a nice Healey. But if you are hell bent on
destruction, do it right. Buy a pristine 100M.
Bob Denton
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 10/3/01 4:54:15 AM, bcolins@airmail.net writes:
>
><< told him that I had recently purchased a
>100-4 for conversion to V8.
>
> He mentioned that he recalled A shop offering a pre-built Healey V8 Kit
>10-20 years ago. He thought they were out of Southern Cal. >>
>
>We're assuming that the 100 has no engine or transmission in it at present,
>and can't be restored to its original configuration -- i.e. it's already been
>cut and rewelded to accept a V8 engine.
>
>If that's not the case, you may be better off finding a Healey where the
>conversion has already been done -- or at least attempted -- and fixing it
>up. Taking a perfectly good Healey and converting it to V8 power is too
>expensive to be worthwhile and results in yet another Healey being lost to
>the world.
>
>Cheers
>Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 10:03:13 -0500
Subject: A Fall Friday in Houston (auto related)
Good Day Race Fans,
Today work in Houston is not so bad... I thought some of you might be
interested in a little piece of my work life this morning. For the last
several weeks Houston has been preparing for the Havoline Texaco Grand Prix
(Indy Car) race this weekend. If you don't know, the race is run on the
streets in downtown Houston and not a closed track with only left-hand turns.
Getting to the office has been an ever-changing challenge everyday as more and
more barricades are erected and streets are closed. A true nightmare.
My office is on the 39th floor of First City Tower, overlooking a portion of
the course. The view is somewhat limited by neighboring skyscrapers however I
can see a portion of one straight and a great view of one turn.
As I write this, several (15-20) indy cars are practicing, several at speed.
The air is filled with the distinct whining sounds of the engines as they
streak by in excess of 140 MPH. The speed and agility of these cars and
drivers is amazing. The sounds are very clear and very thrilling, even 39
stories up and a block away. If you've every been to an Indy race, you know
what I'm talking about.
I believe the practice sessions will continue through Saturday with the race
on Sunday. I plan to venture out at lunch to a restaurant with window seats
on the second floor of a building track side. I'm certain everyone else in
Houston is thinking the same thing - so wish me luck. I'm flying home tonight
and won't be here for the actual race - perhaps next time.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Wayne Sirota <wsirota at snet.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 11:39:12 -0700
Subject: Looking to buy
I'm interested in buying my first Healy 3000 BN7. Please contact me if
you have one for sale.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 13:09:17 EDT
Subject: Tri Healey coverage
To me this is what is so enjoyable about owning and DRIVING a Healey. Getting
out on the scenic back roads of Arkansas.
Coverage and pics of the 10th annual Tri Healey Meet can be seen at the NTAHC
web site<www.ntahc.org> under Past Events. Thanks OAHOC for a fun time.
Also you can get information on the 22nd Texas Healey Roundup, check it out
and get your registration in early.
Thanks
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 12:13:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey V8 KIT?
Well, hell put one in a 100S.......oh, that's right someone already did.....HoYo
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 12:29:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine stands
Hey Scott,
send me a coupla of those spare engine stands you have laying around the shop.
Can't have too many ya know! ; ^) .............HoYo
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brian Collins" <bcolins at airmail.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 12:33:06 -0500
Subject: 100-4 Nasty Boy--Plan B?
OK Guys, I hear ya! Any of you guys who are thrashing me on converting
this complete 100-4 to a nasty boy have a better idea........like,
.......anybody got a nasty project they want to trade? or a completed car?
If someone out there can find me a reasonably priced 100-4 V8 (must be a 5
or 6 speed), I will surrender this complete but partially disassembled BN1
to someone who wants to restore one. Otherwise, I will proceed to chop away
as time and finances allow.
Brian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 10:55:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY 2001
SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY AND PICNIC
Sunday, October 7, 2001
Fairbrook Farms, Bonsall, California
San Diego British Car Club Council and Home Town Buffet
bring you the 22nd Annual San Diego British Car Day.
Our event seeks to foster camaraderie among Southern
California British car enthusiasts. This is an "owners'
car show." You will see everyday drivers, concours
quality cars, and "beaters"! Please plan to drive your
British car!
* DAY OF SHOW PREREGISTRATION: $15.00 per vehicle
* WALK-IN VISITORS - $2.00 - CHILDREN UNDER 15 - Free
REGISTRATION: 9:00 a.m.
CAR SHOW: 10:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
FOOD: You may bring your own picnic or purchase your
lunch from Home Town Buffet!
VENDORS:Spaces $35 - Contact John Barnard
evenings: 619-659-0253; day 619-461-1885
TROPHIES AND RECOGNITION:
To be considered, please have your car in place by 11AM
Cars: Best Of Show - Popular vote - please see ballot
in your show packet
Best Of Marque - Popular vote - please see ballot
in your show packet
Long Distance - Vehicle driven (not towed) longest
distance specifically for this event
Best "Beater" - The car most in need of restoration,
must be running!
Also: Best Club Presentation
Best Classic Picnic (Judging: 11:30 to Noon)
"British Spirit Awards"
PLEASE NOTE: Quantity of trophies & awards based
upon number of cars PRE-REGISTERED!
PICK UP YOUR SOUVENIR PIN AT THE SHOW!
QUESTIONS? Please pick an area code and call us:
(760) 746-9028 Steve
(858) 566-6619 Maggie
(909) 693-9094 Joe
(619) 575-5625 Paul
Voting and Awards Details will be in your packet on Oct 7th.
DIRECTIONS: Fairbrook Farms is located on Mission Road near
State Highway 76, which connects with Interstate 5 and I15.
FROM I-5: At Oceanside, go East on Highway 76 (Mission Ave-
nue) about 12 miles. Turn Left on Mission Road at
the traffic light. The site is 1/4 mile on the Left.
FROM I-15: Thirteen (13) miles north of Escondido or 11
miles south of Temecula, go West on Highway 76 (Pala
Road) 4 1/2 miles. Turn Right on Mission Road at the
traffic light. The site is 1/4 mile on the Left.
PRE-REGISTRATION FORM AT: www.sandiegobritishcarday.org
MAIL BEFORE SEPT. 15th to:
San Diego British Car Club Council
P. O. Box 710131
San Diego CA 92171-0131
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "terry s." <tvett68 at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 18:27:22
Subject: Re: 100-4 Nasty Boy--Plan B?
Brian, its your car! Do with it what you want. Remind the purists that
Donald would have had a Ford V8 in the Healeys if Austin didn't get in the
way. Can you imagine what their cars would be worth today, instead
they went into English AC's- now known as Cobras. A Ford V8 can be installed
in a big Healey without frame mods.Yea, you need a larger radiator and a
stronger transmission. But it can be done without a frame,firewall,steering,
etc. change of any kind. A Chevy takes a little more. The Ford is lighter
and narrower than a Chevy. Chevys are great, but in this swap I feel the
Ford is a better answer, at least for a mainly street machine.And heaven
forbid, if you ever sold it, it could be converted back to stock more
easily. Hey, isn't this supposed to be fun, we already have too many
"authorities" telling us what to do. Go for it! Just one "old rebels"
opinion.
Regards, Terry
BN7(302 Mustang)
>
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 14:03:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Pulling Engine
Thanks, the car will be jacked up just enough to get the legs under for the
extra support.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: Pulling Engine
>
> One last thought after I read all the advice....... If you use a cherry
> picker and tilt(which I did and thought was perfect), either find a cherry
> picker with small enough wheels so it actually slides under the car or be
> prepared to take some 2x6s and have the car sitting on them to give the
> extra height... been there..
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 13:26:43 -0700
Subject: RE: Distributor advance
Hi Guys,
Sorry about the delay in responding, but I have been out of town and,
consequently, swamped with work.
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
>>Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 5:01 AM
>>better the functions of the inertial and vacuum systems. Going
further, how would one >>decide what profile a distributor advance
should have? Specifically, I have been
It is dependent on a number of factors. In your case it sounds like you
are interested in getting the best power out of your engine. So the
mechanical timing curve should be set at the maximum advance your engine
can tolerate. At low engine RPMs that will likely be at the point of
max power. In the mid range RPMs it will be at the auto-ignition limit.
I'm not sure what the high RPM limit is, but I'd guess it will be
interference with the intake charge.
I think the best way to approach this problem would be to put your
original distributor on a one of those distributor testing machines and
map out its advance curve. Using this as a starting point, you could,
by trial and error, allow the advance to occur at lower engine RPMs
until you run into auto-ignition. A little time on a dyno would
probably be really helpful.
Perhaps one of the old timers on the list with a lot of hot rodding
experience can give you some better guidelines. Also check any
competition prep manuals available.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: frogeye [mailto:frogeye@gateway.net]
> Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 10:58 AM
> To: William H. Woodruff
> Subject: Re: Distributor advance
>
>
> Bill,
> I think you did a fine job of explaining a somewhat
>
> 1). The vacuum advance advances the timing as cylinder pressure
> > drops. >( yes, but a confusing way to say it for a lay person.)
Perhaps the easiest way to think about it is this: At a given RPM, an
engine can tolerate more ignition advance under part throttle than it
can under full throttle. The vacuum advance is designed to take
advantage of this and helps the engine produce more power under part
throttle.
BTW, vacuum retards, in general, were an emission control device that
would only take effect at/near idle. Typically they were hooked up to a
ported vacuum source, or through switches of some sort - not directly to
manifold vacuum. Retarding the timing reduces the formation of some
pollutants and somewhat stabilizes combustion at idle.
>
> . The amount of advance added by your vacuum advance is
> > sufficient to cause heavy auto-ignition under full throttle. >
> ( This sounds backwards to me, please explain )
If the mechanical advance curve is optimized for best power, under a
large range of engine RPMs the ignition advance is limited by full
throttle auto-ignition. In other words, you could theoretically get
more power if you could further advance the timing at full throttle, but
you have run up against the limits of the fuel-air combustion process.
Under part throttle, at that same engine RPM, the vacuum advance will
advance the timing beyond this threshold. Should the vacuum advance
somehow get stuck on, the engine would knock under full throttle.
I was pointing out that some people might think about the operation of
the vacuum advance from that viewpoint. That it reduces the ignition
advance under full throttle operation to prevent auto-ignition.
Hope this helps!
Bill W.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 15:27:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Cold Start Up "Sneezing"
When starting up my BJ8 with a cold engine it "sneezes" or backfires
through the aircleaners when I step on the throttle. This condition
goes away once operating tempearature is reached, and then the car
runs great.
Can anyone explain what's causing this problem, and how to correct
it? (So far I've: checked timing [15 degrees @600rpm], inspected
plugs, and set both slow running throttle & jet screws to spec.s per
manual.) - jaschaible@yahoo.com
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 16:57:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: pulling engine
Hi,
I too chickened out at the thought of pulling by the rockershaft
studs. So I used the headbolts. I jave a few pictures on my website.
Check for instance:
http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars/bj7/2001.04.21/closeup_head_behind.jpg
http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars/bj7/2001.04.21/engine_comes_01.jpg
http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars/bj7/2001.04.21/engine_is_out_01.jpg
By the ways, I must be the only one to use a RAILROAD to take my
engine to my shop! You can have a glimpse at
http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars/bj7/2001.04.21/engine_on_rails_02.jpg
Sorry images are full size (about 250KB/piece). You can guess that I
have wideband internet.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Frangois Wildi
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 17:17:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: thank you Gary G. Anderson and Roger L. Moment
Here is a small story that happened to me. Turns out these 2 guys
saved me while fighting the Motor Vehicule Division of Arizona. Here
is the story:
You might know that Austin had the Austin-Healey serial numbers
stamped at several locations on the body at the body plant. I learned
this with amazement when I tried to register my car in Arizona with a
California title. The DMV technician noticed that the car had been
exported (pattern punched in the original title) and therefore was
being re-imported to be titled in Arizona: Alien car -> SUSPICION!.
Plus, I had exported to car to bring it to my home country but I had
not finished the restoration when I migrated to the US. Therefore I
could not present a Swiss title. RE-SUSPICION.
After several hours of waiting (!) they told me that they could not
positively identify the car since they could not find the original
stampings on the body that would correspond to the # on my
identification plate. Without identification, no registration.
They showed me their book with the approximate location of the
stampings. Hey, two of the stampings were on the cockpit floors! Of
course now I have new floors. These floors are among the 1st things
that rust away on these Healeys. One must be a genius to place the
stampings there.
The last number (and my last chance for the title) was a place on top
of the front right suspension tower. Got home, jacked the car,
removed the suspension, scraped my BRAND NEW PAINT and discovered
nothing. I was about to stamp this number myself when I read the book
by Garry Anderson and started scraping the outer side of the top of
the suspension tower. Here it was! But hey! I got very lucky since
the top of the tower is where the shock absorber is attached and
fatigues a lot. During restoration, I had the left one changed due to
stripped threads on the plate! Had I changed the other side, I am
afraid I would have had to kill one or two of these DMV guys.
Because of liability issues they had me do the job at home, put the
shock back and drive to the DMV to show them the stampings!
In case you need to "generate" your own identification, be aware that
the number is only the car number without the prefix, I.e. for
example HBJ7L12345 is stamped 12345 on the chassis
That was almost a year ago. I still have to paint back the top and
the side of the shock attachment plate...
Francois
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 20:42:41 EDT
Subject: Re: V-8 Kit
If you happened to find a 100 without engine and transmission a Toyota
20/22/24R and 5 speed would be a good engine choice. Less weight, about the
same dimensions, torque characteristics and horsepower (in carbureted form
at least) and there are a lot of go fast pieces for the engine. No need to
chop up a perfectly good Healey and it handles about the same (according to
some piece I read). The car would still have all the stock bodywork and
could be refitted with a Healey engine when and if the desire/opportunity
presented itself. Just a thought. Otherwise Buy the Sebring and have fun.../
Dave D.
'59 garage queen BT 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 21:49:29 -0400
Subject: Re: 100-4 Nasty Boy--Plan B?
The most dislikable people, in my opinion, are those with passive-aggressive
personality disorders! Get some professional help, Brian!
Bob
>
>OK Guys, I hear ya.
>If someone out there can find me a reasonably priced 100-4 V8 (must be a 5
>or 6 speed), I will surrender this complete but partially disassembled BN1
>to someone who wants to restore one. Otherwise, I will proceed to chop away
>as time and finances allow.
>
>Brian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 22:10:36 -0400
Subject: RE: Cold Start Up "Sneezing"
It sounds like your mixture is too lean. Perhaps you are letting
the choke out too soon. Also, you might want to check that you
have oil in your dash pots (although this would cause the problem
even when the engine is warm.)
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Schaible
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 6:27 PM
To: Healeys List
Subject: Cold Start Up "Sneezing"
When starting up my BJ8 with a cold engine it "sneezes" or backfires
through the aircleaners when I step on the throttle. This condition
goes away once operating tempearature is reached, and then the car
runs great.
Can anyone explain what's causing this problem, and how to correct
it? (So far I've: checked timing [15 degrees @600rpm], inspected
plugs, and set both slow running throttle & jet screws to spec.s per
manual.) - jaschaible@yahoo.com
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just
$8.95/month.
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 22:13:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Cold Start Up "Sneezing"
John: Check the fluid in the SU carb dampers. Dry dampers can cause the
symptons you describe.
Good Luck,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Schaible" <jaschaible@yahoo.com>
To: "Healeys List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 6:27 PM
Subject: Cold Start Up "Sneezing"
>
> When starting up my BJ8 with a cold engine it "sneezes" or backfires
> through the aircleaners when I step on the throttle. This condition
> goes away once operating tempearature is reached, and then the car
> runs great.
>
> Can anyone explain what's causing this problem, and how to correct
> it? (So far I've: checked timing [15 degrees @600rpm], inspected
> plugs, and set both slow running throttle & jet screws to spec.s per
> manual
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "norris" <f.norris at home.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 21:37:18 -0700
Subject: Steering Wheel
Hi Healey Listers;
Many thanks for good advice regarding restoring gauges - now how about some
advice on my tatty steering wheel? Are the reproduction wheels up to scratch
or is it preferable to get my original wheel restored and if so, where?
Apologies if this is a recently covered topic but I am new to the Healey list
and want to do my long - suffering BJ8 right.Looking forward to advice between
mouthfuls of Thanksgiving turkey, bread sauce, and pumpkin pie.
Mark Norris
debilitated ( but still seductive 67 BJ8)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 21:52:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: pulling engine
Frangois,
Beautiful car.
I of course used the rocker studs, but would have
never thought of leaving on the carbs, heat shield and
exhaust manifold. What is the conventional wisdom
here? When it is time to reassemble should I put the
manifolds on before it goes back in?
How did that work out for you?
Dean
BN7
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Lisa & Mark <bugtop at home.com>
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 23:55:03 +0000
Subject: RE:V8 kit
When getting my BMW 2002 engine rebuilt, the mechanic that was doing
it, had a
side project puttiing a fuel injected 6 cylinder BMW engine into a
Healey.
Enjoying the power curve on a BMW, I've always thought that would be a
nice
combo.
Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BlkBT7 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 09:51:53 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-4 Nasty Boy--Plan B?
Brian,
No geat ideas for you on your conversion, but look at the Modified Healey
website and join their email list. Lots of folks there have done conversions
and have all kinds of good ideas.
http://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 07:37:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: pulling engine
I think leaving the manifolds and carbs is the way it's recommended
in the BMC manual. There is plenty enough room to do it this way. It
have pulled the engine and put it back already this way.
Plus, it is such a PAIN to put the manifolds in the engine bay. In
your shop on the other hand it's quite comfortable to do it of
course.
Thanks for appreciating my hard work. This ground up resto started
almost 6 years ago.
Francois
--- Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Frangois,
>
> Beautiful car.
>
> I of course used the rocker studs, but would have
> never thought of leaving on the carbs, heat shield and
> exhaust manifold. What is the conventional wisdom
> here? When it is time to reassemble should I put the
> manifolds on before it goes back in?
>
> How did that work out for you?
>
> Dean
> BN7
> NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just
> $8.95/month.
> http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 11:53:54 -0400
Subject: RE: pulling engine
As a minimum, you need to have the rear exhaust manifold
bolted loosely in place before you install the engine.
Otherwise you will need to remove some of the throttle
linkage pieces where the linkage goes through the firewall
in order to get the manifold in place. I would leave the
remaining manifold and carb pieces off.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dean Caccavo
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2001 12:53 AM
To: francois wildi; healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: fwildi@as.arizona.edu
Subject: RE: pulling engine
Frangois,
Beautiful car.
I of course used the rocker studs, but would have
never thought of leaving on the carbs, heat shield and
exhaust manifold. What is the conventional wisdom
here? When it is time to reassemble should I put the
manifolds on before it goes back in?
How did that work out for you?
Dean
BN7
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just
$8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 13:09:28 -0400
Subject: Head Studs
Hi All,
Just a note to anyone who's rebuilding their engine.
Last Spring I rebuilt the engine in my BJ8. It's been running great.
BUT....last week I noticed the temperature suddenly running above normal.
When I got home and checked things out, I found water in the oil.
Oh well, looks like I'm pulling the head! In the process of taking it all
apart, I found the rear-most head stud SNAPPED! When I got it all apart, I
found that it had broken right at the block. Luckily I was able to remove
the remains with an easy-out. She's almost back together and running again
as I write this....with all new studs of course.
So...my advice...replace all the studs!!!
Happy Healeying,
Dave Masucci
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 17:00:39 -0700
Subject: Healey Ignition Question
Healey People-
I have a question. I recently got my BMIHT certificate and it identified my
'61 Healey as having come with the FP 717 "Key Number". In the ongoing
effort to restore my Healey back to more or less original I got the idea to
get these keys made. Through this group I was referred to Pete Groh at
BRITISH CAR KEYS. His information should any of you want to reach him is
http://britishcarkeys.com . E-mail: petegroh@yahoo.com . Anyway Pete made me
up a set of original "Made in England" Wilmot Breeden keys that are cut to
FP 717 (and are so stamped). Now here is the situation/question. I have
spoken to a vendor that has an ignition FP 717 for sale. Price seems
reasonable. Will the keys that Pete cut FP 717 fit that ignition that is
similarly marked? I am not knowledgeable about these things but sincerely
appreciate your feedback !! Thanks !
Matt-
61 BT7
P.S. Oh and tomorrow is British Car Day down here in So. Cal. I worked for
a month and a half to ready my Healey for the event. Then last weekend I
put a great wax on her. She WAS running like a top and seemingly all the
planets were aligned. After the wax I took her down to the Stadium to buy
some tickets for the Chargers game and to my chagrin the generator gave up
the ghost. It's being rebuilt by British Auto up in Orange CA, but will
sadly not be done in time. I gave my BT7 a stern talking to but she really
seemed indifferent. So goes the battle.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 17:26:45 -0700
Subject: Healey Ignition Question - Pt.2
Healey People-
I failed to state the ignition in the car presently is not an FP 717 marked
part. It is marked FP 6XX. I forget the other two numbers.
Matt-
61 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2001 15:07:57 -0400
Subject: Testing
Just testing to see if list is working since re-subscribing.
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2001 16:24:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Testing
I have been tested and am thankfully still working. So is the Healey.
WD 67BJ8
>From: "ROBERT HAY" <JERRYHAY@msn.com>
>To: "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: Testing
>Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 15:16:59 -0400
>
>The list is testing to see if you are working since you re-subscribed
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Warren Dietz
>Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2001 3:12 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Testing
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2001 17:03:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Testing
Probably a lot of are nervous about this whole Afghan/terrorist thing. Is this
testing thing a part of some kind of terrorist detection program? Should we all
be tested? What happens if we test positive? Can someone tell us?
Warren Dietz wrote:
> I have been tested and am thankfully still working. So is the Healey.
> WD 67BJ8
>
> >From: "ROBERT HAY" <JERRYHAY@msn.com>
> >To: "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>
> >Subject: Re: Testing
> >Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 15:16:59 -0400
> >
> >The list is testing to see if you are working since you re-subscribed
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Warren Dietz
> >Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2001 3:12 PM
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Testing
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 18:21:10 -0500
Subject: Here is something to TEST
Let's try this and see if it works.
At last a little sanity!
> >
> >
> >> An Israeli friend recently informed me that the UK fought the Islamic
> >> terrorist attacks by burying the criminals with a pig. Apparently the
> >> Islamic belief is that if ones' body is buried with a pig (because they
> >> are considered unclean) their soul will go to hell. I did a little
> >> research into this subject matter and found it to be true. This got me
> >> thinking.
> >>
> >> If we put a baby pig on every airline flight then all suicide
>terrorists
> >> would abort their missions as they would not want their souls to go to
> >> hell.
> >>
> >> Additionally, if we drop shipped, oh say, 100,000 pigs into Afghanistan
> >> I think our recon and assault efforts may be more successful.
> >> Apparently Muslims dislike the very site of pigs A LOT!
> >>
> >> They are also adamantly opposed to alcohol, thus we spike their water
> >> supply with a few thousand gallons of moonshine, get them shit faced
>and
> >> turn the pigs loose. The war would be over in a weekend.
> >>
> >> Just a thought.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 11:07:37 +1000
Subject: RE: 100-4 Nasty Boy--Plan B?
G'day
The question of fitting V8s to Healeys and Austin-Healeys always brings
forward lots of interesting comment. Perhaps it would be more interesting if
it were looked at in the light of some Healey History.
Remember the DHMC was going down slowly the gurgler when Donald Healey met
George Mason of Nash enroute to the US. Why was DMH travelling to the US? To
try and procure a supply of the new Cadillac V8s to fit to a Silverstone
based car that was on the drawing boards.
Before Carroll Shelby, FoMoCo and AC got their act together with the AC
Cobra, Mr Shelby also approached BMC and Donald Healey direct with a view of
using one of the land speed record cars to test his idea of a Ford V8 and an
British sports car chassis. As DMH saw a nice little earner in an
association with Shelby he had Roger Menadue thoroughly checked out the land
speed record cars for suitability for the new project. Unfortunately each
was severely corroded from the salt and couldn't be used. In the end BMC
wouldn't agree to an association with a Ford product.
Such an association didn't concern the small AC team at Thames Ditton and
thus a motoring legend was born.
Just imagine what it would have been like if the association between DMH and
Carroll Shelby eventuated?
The first 100S I drove was fitted with a fuel injected Corvette engine and
needless to say it went like stink. However back then it was just an old
racing car and there is nothing more useless than yesterday's racing car
that is no longer competitive.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: terry s. [mailto:tvett68@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2001 4:27 AM
To: bcolins@airmail.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 100-4 Nasty Boy--Plan B?
Brian, its your car! Do with it what you want. Remind the purists that
Donald would have had a Ford V8 in the Healeys if Austin didn't get in the
way. Can you imagine what their cars would be worth today, instead
they went into English AC's- now known as Cobras. A Ford V8 can be installed
in a big Healey without frame mods.Yea, you need a larger radiator and a
stronger transmission. But it can be done without a frame,firewall,steering,
etc. change of any kind. A Chevy takes a little more. The Ford is lighter
and narrower than a Chevy. Chevys are great, but in this swap I feel the
Ford is a better answer, at least for a mainly street machine.And heaven
forbid, if you ever sold it, it could be converted back to stock more
easily. Hey, isn't this supposed to be fun, we already have too many
"authorities" telling us what to do. Go for it! Just one "old rebels"
opinion.
Regards, Terry
BN7(302 Mustang)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2001 21:36:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Here is something to TEST
Hey, Don, we came with another plan. We send in the special forces and capture
Usama Bin Laden. Then take him to a secret hospital in the U.S. where they do a
total sex-change operation on him. We let him sit and devour his/her hormone
pills for a while and then give him passage back to to Taliban country to live
as a woman.
Don Yarber wrote:
> Let's try this and see if it works.
>
> At last a little sanity!
> > >
> > >
> > >> An Israeli friend recently informed me that the UK fought the Islamic
> > >> terrorist attacks by burying the criminals with a pig. Apparently the
> > >> Islamic belief is that if ones' body is buried with a pig (because they
> > >> are considered unclean) their soul will go to hell. I did a little
> > >> research into this subject matter and found it to be true. This got me
> > >> thinking.
> > >>
> > >> If we put a baby pig on every airline flight then all suicide
> >terrorists
> > >> would abort their missions as they would not want their souls to go to
> > >> hell.
> > >>
> > >> Additionally, if we drop shipped, oh say, 100,000 pigs into Afghanistan
> > >> I think our recon and assault efforts may be more successful.
> > >> Apparently Muslims dislike the very site of pigs A LOT!
> > >>
> > >> They are also adamantly opposed to alcohol, thus we spike their water
> > >> supply with a few thousand gallons of moonshine, get them shit faced
> >and
> > >> turn the pigs loose. The war would be over in a weekend.
> > >>
> > >> Just a thought.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 20:48:21 -0500
Subject: the ultimate Nasty Boy--Plan C?
Patrick.... I love it when someone interjects some reason into this
conversation.... you ...like I realize what Donalds interests really were.
He was simply interested in Performance and an image that would sell motor
cars... in later years he would automatically gravitate to the nasty boys
to look at the Hot Rod engineering....he already knew what the Concours cars
looked like.... he wanted to see something NEW... or different.
Geoff of course was interested in the engineering side as well.... only more
so really... Jerry Coker's eye for design and Donalds ability to put and
Keep him together with Roger Mendadue... well it speaks volumes about
Donalds People skills as well.
Okay that having been said .... here are my thoughts... If Donald M Healey
was alive today he would be applauding my efforts to build and drive a
Healey on the salt again... Austin was simply a supplier of Motors and
assembly to him..... he wouldn't give to hoots that I have a Race motor in
my car rather then a Factory Block that has been brought up to Racing
spec's.... The Engine that I am going to run doesnt' have a single washer
from any make or manufactuer..... it's not a Chevrolet or a Ford.... it's a
Rodeck aluminum engine plain and simple....it's a Race motor.... sure it's
based on a Chevrolet Small block.... but after that it's all aftermarket...
The 6 speed transmission is aftermarket as well as the Winters Quick change
rear end I'm going to use.... so the only part on my Bonneville Race car
made by any Factory.... is the Austin Healey Rear body shell of a Bugeye....
thereby designating that it truly is a Modified Healey....
So now the question is where am I on this Project.... well pure and simple I
have been racing the Camaro for 3 yrs now collecting the last bit of parts
to build the Healey.... I have the body and the Nose piece.... I have the
drive train parts and spares.... and had planned on starting the chassis
this winter in my shop.....
At our last meet when I hosted Donald Wales ( Sir Malcolm Campbells grandson
I mentioned last week) we had a horrific accident at the Track in North
Carolina.... the fella flipped his 32 Ford Roadster 5 plus times and went
End over end.... the car was totally destroyed and the Roll cage held up
perfectly.... This last couple of weeks I have been sitting back thinking
about that incident where the guy was totally fine after a Brutal series of
rolls and flips.... and I have pretty much decided that I am going to have
the chassis professionally built by a Race car builder.... not someone like
me who is a semi novice welder of questionable fabrication skills..... Keep
in mind this Healey is going to be a 300mph ride..... and if I ever tip it
over Life is going to be ugly for a bit till it comes to a stop..... when
it does I want to be in as good of a condition as my buddy who flipped that
Roadster..... That also means that I am going to incur the $25,000 in costs
that it takes to build that chassis and fit the body.... so I may have to
slow down somewhere in here and wait a bit to put the finances together to
make this happen.... but I am going to make it happen.... that simple...
someday.... it's a dream and a journey.... it's not time based....
Keith ( sorry for rambling.... just wanted to unload some thoughts )
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2001 8:07 PM
Subject: RE: 100-4 Nasty Boy--Plan B?
>
> G'day
>
> The question of fitting V8s to Healeys and Austin-Healeys always brings
> forward lots of interesting comment. Perhaps it would be more interesting
if
> it were looked at in the light of some Healey History.
>
> Remember the DHMC was going down slowly the gurgler when Donald Healey met
> George Mason of Nash enroute to the US. Why was DMH travelling to the US?
To
> try and procure a supply of the new Cadillac V8s to fit to a Silverstone
> based car that was on the drawing boards.
>
> Before Carroll Shelby, FoMoCo and AC got their act together with the AC
> Cobra, Mr Shelby also approached BMC and Donald Healey direct with a view
of
> using one of the land speed record cars to test his idea of a Ford V8 and
an
> British sports car chassis. As DMH saw a nice little earner in an
> association with Shelby he had Roger Menadue thoroughly checked out the
land
> speed record cars for suitability for the new project. Unfortunately each
> was severely corroded from the salt and couldn't be used. In the end BMC
> wouldn't agree to an association with a Ford product.
>
> Such an association didn't concern the small AC team at Thames Ditton and
> thus a motoring legend was born.
>
> Just imagine what it would have been like if the association between DMH
and
> Carroll Shelby eventuated?
>
> The first 100S I drove was fitted with a fuel injected Corvette engine and
> needless to say it went like stink. However back then it was just an old
> racing car and there is nothing more useless than yesterday's racing car
> that is no longer competitive.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: terry s. [mailto:tvett68@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2001 4:27 AM
> To: bcolins@airmail.net
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: 100-4 Nasty Boy--Plan B?
>
>
>
> Brian, its your car! Do with it what you want. Remind the purists that
> Donald would have had a Ford V8 in the Healeys if Austin didn't get in the
> way. Can you imagine what their cars would be worth today, instead
> they went into English AC's- now known as Cobras. A Ford V8 can be
installed
>
> in a big Healey without frame mods.Yea, you need a larger radiator and a
> stronger transmission. But it can be done without a
frame,firewall,steering,
>
> etc. change of any kind. A Chevy takes a little more. The Ford is lighter
> and narrower than a Chevy. Chevys are great, but in this swap I feel the
> Ford is a better answer, at least for a mainly street machine.And heaven
> forbid, if you ever sold it, it could be converted back to stock more
> easily. Hey, isn't this supposed to be fun, we already have too many
> "authorities" telling us what to do. Go for it! Just one "old rebels"
> opinion.
> Regards, Terry
> BN7(302 Mustang)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 21:54:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel
Mark,
The repro steering wheels are quite good. Bought one from Healey Surgeons
about 2 years ago but it turned out to be warped and out of round. Took it
back to them (happened to be in their area on a trip) and they gladly
replaced it with a good one. Therefore, if you get a repro check for
quality.
Keith Pennell
> Hi Healey Listers;
> Many thanks for good advice regarding restoring gauges - now how about
some
> advice on my tatty steering wheel? Are the reproduction wheels up to
scratch
> or is it preferable to get my original wheel restored and if so, where?
> Apologies if this is a recently covered topic but I am new to the Healey
list
> and want to do my long - suffering BJ8 right.Looking forward to advice
between
> mouthfuls of Thanksgiving turkey, bread sauce, and pumpkin pie.
> Mark Norris
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2001 22:31:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel
Norris,
Try:
Koch's Steering Wheel Restoration
26043 Ruether, Unit M
Canyon Country CA 91351
ph 661.252.9264
fx 661.252.2834
I found them in Hemmings and they did the Bugeye wheel and the MGA wheel. Not
cheap, around 150 -200 per wheel, but I have the original wheels and not a
repro.
They did a fantastic job. No financial interest, etc. Just a satisfied
customer.
Regards,
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
norris wrote:
> Hi Healey Listers;
> Many thanks for good advice regarding restoring gauges - now how about some
> advice on my tatty steering wheel? Are the reproduction wheels up to scratch
> or is it preferable to get my original wheel restored and if so, where?
> Apologies if this is a recently covered topic but I am new to the Healey list
> and want to do my long - suffering BJ8 right.Looking forward to advice between
> mouthfuls of Thanksgiving turkey, bread sauce, and pumpkin pie.
> Mark Norris
> debilitated ( but still seductive 67 BJ8)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 01:53:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Here is something to TEST
Actually, what is even more horrifying to Islamic
Extremists is to have their genitals cut off while
still alive and then be suffocated on their own
genitals. My dad heard second hand from an MEA
(Middle East Airlines) pilot in Beruit in 1979 that
this is what the KGB had done to keep the Hezbollah
from kidnapping Soviet agents in Beiruit. If you
recall, there were several Americans kidnapped at that
time (for political reasons), but no Russians despite
the fact they were invading Afghanistan at the time.
The first set of Soviet agents kidnapped by the
Hezbollah in Beruit were the only Soviets ever
kidnapped, to say the least... I think the two dead
kidnappers from Hezbollah found in the street in
Beiruit with their genitals in their mouth was a
sufficient... and lasting... warning.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Arjay <foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Hey, Don, we came with another plan. We send in the
> special forces and capture
> Usama Bin Laden. Then take him to a secret hospital
> in the U.S. where they do a
> total sex-change operation on him. We let him sit
> and devour his/her hormone
> pills for a while and then give him passage back to
> to Taliban country to live
> as a woman.
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 11:30:43 +0100
Subject: Re: Electronic Ignition
Tim
The Pertronix (mentioned frequently on this list) fits inside the distributor.
UK suppliers that I know of are Steve Jowett at UK Healey (01924 899 007 or
http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/austin.healey/) and Cape International (01676
542292 or http://www.cape-international.com/) - there may be others. Both
firms are very helpful.
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4 (with Pertronix)
> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 09:55:25 EDT
> From: TimWardUK@aol.com
> Subject: Electronic Ignition
>
> Hi
> I would like to fit a conversion to my BJ8 and Frogeye. However, the only
> product that I have found that fits entirely inside the Distributor is the
> Lumenition Magnetronic System (their Optronic System has boxes outside the
> Distributor and is therefore not what I want), but this is only available
> for Negative Earth wiring. Can anyone recommend a conversion that fits
> entirely into the Distributor and which works with a Positive Earth. UK
> sourcing would be great. Thanks Tim
>
> Tim Ward
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Negus" <pauln at iplbath.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 11:57:38 +0100
Subject: Re: Silicone Ignition Wires and Ignition Teaser
John
Re your query and the responses.
Earlier this year I had ignition troubles that I shared with the list
('Ignition Teaser'). To cut a long story short, even after fitting a new
Battery Master Switch, condenser and coil, the car misfired then
failed whilst out on a run. When the tow truck arrived, the mechanic
connected No 1 cylinder HT lead to a spare spark plug which he
held onto the engine metalwork. (You can probably guess what is
coming!) The plug fired, as did all of the others!! I got the car home
but investigation showed the following:
1. I had 'bumblebee' solid copper leads with NGK spark plug
connectors. These are used by the Healey race/rally fraternity so I
expected them to be reliable. Two were open circuit and a third
was very high resistance.
2. Upon checking my two (new) spare NGK connectors, one was
open circuit and the other high resistance (50K ohms).
3. The Lucas coil output was low and erratic when hooked up to an
oscilloscope. The effort of sparking across the high resistances
and open circuit gaps had no doubt caused this failure.
I replaced the coil yet again but fitted a Pertronix ignition and
silicone leads that have built-in spark plug caps.
The car has now done several hundred miles with no problems.
If you do decide to go for solid copper conductors, check the spark
plug connector resistance regularly. (Any multimeter will do -
typical resistance of a suppressed cap is 5K ohms to 15K ohms).
Incidentally, longer term I have a set of Magnecor leads to fit to the
car. These have a metallic conductor wound spirally around the
central conductor to suppress radiated interference and are used in
particular on racing engines where the engine management system
could be upset by interference. Although this is not a consideration
on a Healey, the leads do come in black whereas most silicone
leads are garish colours!
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
> Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 10:50:08 -0700 (PDT)
> From: John Schaible <jaschaible@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Silicone Ignition Wires
>
> Does anyone on the list have experience regarding the use of silicone
> ignition wires on a big Healey? My local NAPA lists a set of silicone
> wires with factory terminated spark plug ends for a BJ8, but I would need
> to cut off a brass fitting on the distributor end and then pierce with the
> standard distributor cap "vampire screw". (I have some new 7mm soilid
> core wire in my parts stash, but requests for solid core terminal ends at
> several shops has been fruitless.) I have no aversion to the more modern
> wires, I simply would like to know if silicone wires are better, worse,
> or about the same for Healey applications? Thanks-Jack
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 07:39:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Here is something to TEST
In a message dated 10/8/01 4:55:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
> Actually, what is even more horrifying to Islamic
> Extremists is to have their genitals cut off while
> still alive and then be suffocated on their own
> genitals.
Gosh Alan, I don't think I'd like that much either.
Now, what has this got to do with Healeys?
Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 08:10:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Two BN1 problems and a question
> I am still unable to seal the oil leak from the valve cover. I have run
the
> engine with the cover removed and it is not "spurting" oil off the
rockers.
> I do have a substantial amount of pressure in the valve cover that I
believe
> it forcing the oil out. When I put my hand over the breather I can feel a
> puff of air forcing it's way out. It is an aftermarket cover without the
> side vent that would normally go to the air filter. Perhaps a leaky valve
> or two or eight, ideas?
The engine has to be able to equalize internal engine pressures to
atmospheric pressure. You've hit the nail on the head when you mentioned
about the cover being aftermarket, and having no side venting aperture. Poor
engine can't breathe and is doing its best to do so by pushing oil out the
weakest path.
>
> Next is, how in the heck do you get the wiper motor out? It is seemingly
in
> tight between the "shelf", welded on, and the top of the shroud under the
> dash. Do the wiper boxes, motor and cable all come out together? Tips?
Undo the two studs going from the mounting plate into the underside of the
wiper motor. Next, release the wiper arms from their shafts, then working
from under the dash, loosen the two screws per wiper box and pull the wiper
motor along with the cable rack out to the left side of the car. This will
leave the wiper boxes in place on the shroud.
> And finally, I read in Roger and Garry's book that the kidney shaped dash
> section should be painted silver. Is that the silver like the Moss wire
> wheel paint or something different?
The silver paint on the raised portion of the dash is a rather dull silver.
It's nothing like the wheel paint, which is more of a smooth glossy silver
grey.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 06:39:06 -0700
Subject: New electrical problem
My fellow Healey friends,
Yesterday I finished all my new BJ8 dashboard wiring with the exception of
the heater (still waiting for $ to buy all new cables etc.) I checked
everything 3 times against both the wiring diagram and even the labeled old
harness from another old chassis. I through in the battery and proceeded to
run thru a final check to make sure coil and plugs were disconnected to see
if I was lucky enough to get oil pressure on the newly rebuilt engine.
Well, the engine cranked over fine but, no oil pressure registered. Then, I
checked the dashboard panel and I had no lights anywhere and the upper most
35 amp fuse had blown. I looked under the dash to discover the lower O/D
switch spade terminal had broken off and fallen against the metal center
panel. I said, Ahh, OK well as least I know what the problem is. I
disconnected the 2 O/D wires, safed off and removed the switch. Tried a key
on test of the lights once again (yes I replaced the fuse). Nothing! Only
a small panel light showed up in the tach (different circuit I guess). I
know commenting and diagnosing Healey wiring via email is difficult at best
but, what am I missing here? I am baffled. Any help is greatly
appreciated. I am been waiting 3 years for this day only to be
disappointed. I hope your Sunday was better than mine.
dp
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "mel" <mel5 at mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 10:13:49 -0400
Subject: War-Pigs-Genitals-Etc
I don't know about the rest of you but I get enough "blood and guts" from
the media. I don't need anymore from my favorite e-mail messages.
What I need and enjoy is reading about Healeys.
Mel Brunet
67 BJ8 39749
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 07:24:50 -0700
Subject: Re: War-Pigs-Genitals-Etc
Mel, I completely agree.
Mark Fawcett
> I don't know about the rest of you but I get enough "blood and guts"
from
> the media. I don't need anymore from my favorite e-mail messages.
>
> What I need and enjoy is reading about Healeys.
>
> Mel Brunet
> 67 BJ8 39749
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 11:06:55 EDT
Subject: Re: New electrical problem
To start the wires to the overdrive wires are NOT fused they are on a white
wire which is hot with the key on not fused. The top fuse is a brown wire to
a purple wire which is hot all the time. This wire would go the horns only.
The bottlm fuse is fed by a white wire to a green wire which is hot with the
ignition on. The lights are not fused at all we recomend that people install
a in line fuse in there hareness at the red wire on the headlight switch to
prevent any problems. The problem that you are most likley having with your
light is the headlight switch is not connected right.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001 10:15:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Testing
I don't know, i haven't seen the X rays yet..................;^0........HoYo
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 11:16:12 -0400
Subject: Split Rivets - how to bend them?
Healeyers:
I was putting on the rubber thingies that go on the wheel wells between the
wheel well and the fender. (1" wide U shaped with hole in middle for split
washer). - Similar to ones that fit under hood along rain gutter rail. The
thingies come with 3/4" split rivets and a washer. I tried to bend the
split rivets using a pair of pliers, but it just broke off the tabs. Is
there a special way to bend these things. I need to buy new ones and don't
want to botch those.
Also, for those who understand what I'm talking about, what direction do the
rivets go? Does the rivet head show in the wheel well or does the split
part show in the wheel well? Does the washer fit at the head of the rivet,
or at the split side.
Esoteric, I know, but applicable at this stage of assembly.
Ryan
64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wm. \"Kit\" Henry II" <khenry at hmcltd.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 11:22:53 -0400
Subject: For Sale & Information Please
1954 MG TF For Sale due to health problems
79,000 miles Fully Restored and Very Clean I'm Told
Maroon w/ Tan Interior
Located in Clyde, Ohio
For More information Call
Angela Schoen
419-483-8116
Usual Disclaimers as always
Does MG have a list like ours ?
Kit Henry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 11:37:34 -0400
Subject: Grommets in Bulkhead - insulates main battery cable
I will need two of these as my old ones are pretty shot. problem is that one
place says they are not available,
The other place that has them wants $34.95. Apiece? Either way, that seems
like alot of money. At least to me.
Before I buy a block of rubber and start carving my own, does anyone know of
a reasonable source for these?
Ryan 64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 08:47:59 -0700
Subject: RE: the ultimate Nasty Boy--Plan C?
> Keith ( sorry for rambling.... just wanted to unload some thoughts )
>
Keith,
Ramble on! I enjoy reading of your accomplishments. Vicarious living
stuff....
Brad Weldon
BN1 [226796]
http://bradw.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 09:55:30 -0600
Subject: RE: New electrical problem
Dwight,
The electrical system and the oil pressure gauge have nothing in common (the
temperature side does). If you cranked the engine over and did not get oil
pressure, then there's a mechanical/hydraulic problem.
Unless, of course, you didn't imply a connection....then I'll apologize in
advance.
Speaking of wiring, do you have a copy of my BJ8 diagram in living color?
Could e-mail you one if you like.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Dwight Patten [mailto:pattend@nortelnetworks.com]
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2001 6:39 AM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: New electrical problem
My fellow Healey friends,
Yesterday I finished all my new BJ8 dashboard wiring with the exception of
the heater (still waiting for $ to buy all new cables etc.) I checked
everything 3 times against both the wiring diagram and even the labeled old
harness from another old chassis. I through in the battery and proceeded to
run thru a final check to make sure coil and plugs were disconnected to see
if I was lucky enough to get oil pressure on the newly rebuilt engine.
Well, the engine cranked over fine but, no oil pressure registered. Then, I
checked the dashboard panel and I had no lights anywhere and the upper most
35 amp fuse had blown. I looked under the dash to discover the lower O/D
switch spade terminal had broken off and fallen against the metal center
panel. I said, Ahh, OK well as least I know what the problem is. I
disconnected the 2 O/D wires, safed off and removed the switch. Tried a key
on test of the lights once again (yes I replaced the fuse). Nothing! Only
a small panel light showed up in the tach (different circuit I guess). I
know commenting and diagnosing Healey wiring via email is difficult at best
but, what am I missing here? I am baffled. Any help is greatly
appreciated. I am been waiting 3 years for this day only to be
disappointed. I hope your Sunday was better than mine.
dp
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 13:12:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel
In a message dated 10/5/01 9:38:06 PM, f.norris@home.com writes:
<< Hi Healey Listers;
Many thanks for good advice regarding restoring gauges - now how about some
advice on my tatty steering wheel? Are the reproduction wheels up to scratch
or is it preferable to get my original wheel restored and if so, where? >>
The reproduction wheels for the six-cylinder cars are quite good -- they do
have a little mold seam around the edge and if you're really, really finicky
you could sand this down with a very fine sand paper, then repolish the
plastic -- but it certainly wouldn't pay to have the original redone. In any
case, repaired wheels often crack again in a few years.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 18:33:09 +0100
Subject: Austin Healey bulkhead grommets.
Contact me off list for any amount of these.
Regards.
David
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 13:38:55 EDT
Subject: 100 windscreen removal
I need to replace the glass in my windscreen. How is the chrome frame
assembly attached to the two painted pillars? And do I remove the pillars
from the links to the chrome stantions that go into the body by simply
unscrewing the small screws in the center of the knurled knobs and
withdrawing the bolts from the knobs?
TIA--Michael Oritt, BN1L222333
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 14:44:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Looking to buy
> I'm interested in buying my first Healy 3000 BN7. Please contact me if
> you have one for sale.
Wayne,
It would help if we had an idea of what you're looking for (i.e. basket
case, gold level concourse or something in the middle).
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Reinhart Rosner" <reinhart.rosner at magnet.at>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 22:18:51 +0200
Subject: sitting inclined
Together with new shock absorbers my 55 100 BN 1 got new springs at the front
suspension too in order to get the left side of the car higher up again. For a
short time the left and the right side of the car were about the same level.
The right side is loosing hight again (yes, I have a LHD and no I am not that
heavy myself to explain that with my weight). My local dealer told me to
fabricate a kind of big washer to put under the spring on the left side.
Any other solutions?
Regards
Reinhart
55 AH 100 BN 1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 15:22:55 -0500
Subject: Re: sitting inclined
space the other spring down?
K
----------
> From: Reinhart Rosner <reinhart.rosner@magnet.at>
> To: Austin Healey-Liste <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: sitting inclined
> Date: Monday, October 08, 2001 3:18 PM
>
>
> Together with new shock absorbers my 55 100 BN 1 got new springs at the
front
> suspension too in order to get the left side of the car higher up again.
For a
> short time the left and the right side of the car were about the same
level.
> The right side is loosing hight again (yes, I have a LHD and no I am not
that
> heavy myself to explain that with my weight). My local dealer told me to
> fabricate a kind of big washer to put under the spring on the left side.
> Any other solutions?
>
> Regards
> Reinhart
> 55 AH 100 BN 1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "cgsecord" <cgsecord at simcom.on.ca>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 17:27:48 -0400
Subject: Re: 100 windscreen removal
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2001 1:38 PM
Subject: 100 windscreen removal
>
> I need to replace the glass in my windscreen. How is the chrome
frame
> assembly attached to the two painted pillars? And do I remove the
pillars
> from the links to the chrome stantions that go into the body by
simply
> unscrewing the small screws in the center of the knurled knobs and
> withdrawing the bolts from the knobs?
>
> TIA--Michael Oritt, BN1L222333
>
> Hi Michael, That is correct. Remove the screws. [are these
available?] Remove the knurled knobs and the bolts. You will want to
place something behind the posts to protect against the chromed pivot
pieces which will fall when the bolts are withdrawn. The slotted metal
screws which are visible on the upper and lower frame corners come out
next [after you have removed the windshield and placed it on a padded
work surface]. The glass can now be separated from the frame. The
screws which hold the chromed frame to the painted pillar can now be
seen. These only need to be removed if you have work to do on these
components. Good luck.
I had my cracked windshield replaced by a glass shop but was not
completely happy with the results. They were rough with the components
and put the rubber sealing strip in backwards.
Graham Secord
BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Clayton La Baw <clabaw at jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001 15:18:16 -0700
Subject: Healey books
Listers -
I recently came into the possession of a couple of Healey books; surplus to
my needs. The
condition of both is good or better. The titles are:
Austin Healey Year Book 1978, compiled by Paul Skilleter
Healey the Handsome Brute, by Chris Harvey
Anyone interested, make offer by e-mail.
Clayton La Baw
'67 Sprite
DISCLAIMER: JPL now requires notice in all electronic communication that
all personal and professional opinions presented herein are my own and do
not, in any way, represent the opinion or policy of JPL.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 19:08:08 -0400
Subject: Re: sitting inclined
Try This:
To determine whether your problem is front or rear, slowly push the car (no
driver) onto a flat level surface, come to a gentle stop. Carefully measure
LF and RF height (best to measure from floor to top of wheel arch). Then
jack up the rear from dead center (jack under the diff) so that the rear
tires are just off the ground, and measure LF and RF again. If LF minus RF
remains the same as when unjacked, then your problem is at the front. If LF
= RF, then your problem is at the rear.
This worked for me, My problem was at the rear. New leaf springs solved it.
Also, I have seen the front equalized by adding a spring extender between
two coils.
Shocks won't cause a list unless they are binding.
Jim
55 AH 100 BN 1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reinhart Rosner" <reinhart.rosner@magnet.at>
To: "Austin Healey-Liste" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2001 4:18 PM
Subject: sitting inclined
>
> Together with new shock absorbers my 55 100 BN 1 got new springs at the
front
> suspension too in order to get the left side of the car higher up again.
For a
> short time the left and the right side of the car were about the same
level.
> The right side is loosing hight again (yes, I have a LHD and no I am not
that
> heavy myself to explain that with my weight). My local dealer told me to
> fabricate a kind of big washer to put under the spring on the left side.
> Any other solutions?
>
> Regards
> Reinhart
> 55 AH 100 BN 1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From lennart.nystedt at allgon.se
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 07:33:39 +0200
Subject: Archives on Listquest
Does anybody know the status of Listquest ?
I've tried to connect to the adress www.listquest.com
<http://www.listquest.com> for a couple of days without success.
Is it down temporary or has it closed ?
Hdlsningar/Regards
Lennart Nystedt
Verification group
Allgon Systems AB
Tel direct: +46 8 540 834 09
Fax: +46 8 540 834 60
e-mail: lennart.nystedt@allgon.se
<mailto:lennart.nystedt@allgon.se>
www.allgon.com <http://www.allgon.com>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Jowett" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 16:14:43 +0100
Subject: Re: Silicone Ignition Wires and Ignition Teaser
Hi Paul
I had exactly the same problem last week with NGK plug caps on a customers
Healey!
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
AUSTIN HEALEY - MG - TRIUMPH - JAGUAR
ASTON MARTIN
www.ukhealey.co.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Biloselhir at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 15:44:01 EDT
Subject: Restoration questions
The restoration is moving along on my 59 BN4. Several questions for the list:
1. Originally this car was Ivory white over black with red interior. Would
there be "deductions" if went with black interior instead, or all white
paint? I think the red interior with white over black gets a bit busy. Any
of these combinations were available to the 59 BN4 as far as I know from
restoration books.
What about using leather... or Wilton wool?
2. Did all of the white over black/red interior come with Grey top? Would
black top be a deduction if it were with red interior?
3. I am planning for the hard top to be painted white. Any problems?
Heritage (who I am planning to use for interior) states that all hard tops
had a grey headliner. So I suppose a black headliner would be a problem?
4. Was the trunk originally always done in Black Armacord, or did it ever
match the interior? Heritage can provide it either way.
5. On the trunk lid, was there ever more than the words "Austin-Healey" on
the 100-six?
Thanks for any help on these items. Most things I am getting info from the
Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide which is amazing in its detail!
Bill
59 BN4, in progress
biloselhir@aol.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 18:57:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Archives on Listquest
I've tried several times during the last couple months too. Strangely, the
Austin Healey Club USA continues to promote this service, even though you
never can access it. Someone mentioned once they thought they were in
financial trouble, maybe bankruptcy.
> Does anybody know the status of Listquest ?
> I've tried to connect to the adress www.listquest.com
> <http://www.listquest.com> for a couple of days without success.
> Is it down temporary or has it closed ?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Warrenberg at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 21:23:47 EDT
Subject: Radiator drain valve advice
Guys,
Got it tuned up. Found the short that caused the stutter (wire off the
condenser) and then had the radiator hose spring a leak. Was installing the
new one this evening and when I was trying to open the valve I inadvertently
unseated the whole assembly. Will one of those "cold weld" compounds work
for reseating it or should I pull the whole thing and take it to a radiator
shop. Crossed fingers that the cold weld is good enough!
Thanks!
Warren Berg
1961 3000 BT7 and a 1960 3000 BT7 in-waiting
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 19:50:09 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Forwarded: Tires for Big Healey
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: Meemeb@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 20:11:23 EDT
Subject: Tires for Big Healey
I have been driving my Healey for years on Michelin XZX 165 SR 15's and now
need to replace them but apparently they aren't made anymore. I don't race
my Healey but like to drive it hard and fast when I can. Of course I don't
drive in the snow but occaisonally drive in the rain. What is the best tires
for my Healey?
------- End of forwarded message -------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 19:16:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Radiator drain valve advice
Warren -
If the drain tap threads on the radiator are shot or
the thread's seat is shot on the radiator bottom pan -
take it to a radiator shop for them to have it
repaired - it's really the only way to fix it
properly. Cold weld may not stand up to rad. pressure
long term and may start leaking soon after you fix it.
Pulling the radiator is pretty easy, it shouldn't take
you more than 15 minutes to unbolt the six bolts and
yank it out. As Nike says "JUST DO IT!"
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Warrenberg@aol.com wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> Got it tuned up. Found the short that caused the
> stutter (wire off the
> condenser) and then had the radiator hose spring a
> leak. Was installing the
> new one this evening and when I was trying to open
> the valve I inadvertently
> unseated the whole assembly. Will one of those
> "cold weld" compounds work
> for reseating it or should I pull the whole thing
> and take it to a radiator
> shop. Crossed fingers that the cold weld is good
> enough!
>
> Thanks!
> Warren Berg
> 1961 3000 BT7 and a 1960 3000 BT7 in-waiting
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 23:36:39 EDT
Subject: Re: sitting inclined - Spring Extenders
Jim,
The problem with using spring extenders is that they stiffen the spring rate
and the you drive at speed over a bump or undulation the lest and right front
of the car will rebound at a different rate. This will cause the car to be
thrust sideways some and be difficult to control. Speak from experience.
When I bought my car I couldn't figure out why it handled badly over
bumps/undulations. In checking the springs, I discovered an extender in one
side. Took it out and the car handles great over bumps. Couldn't notice any
measurable difference in the front heights of the car.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 21:12:21 -0700
Subject: one data point in contradiction to quality slurs
I am restoring a '53BN1 that has stood on its wheels in storage since
1964. Today I removed one of the front suspension springs. I
compared it to the factory original specs in the manual. After 48
years of service, most of which with no service whatsoever, the
overall free length is within .01 of original spec.
If your aftermarket springs are sagging after a year or two, you
should consider that the makers didn't do a good job of replication.
{I'll let you know about the other spring tomorrow.}
-Roland
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matthew Parrish" <mattdpcw at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 23:14:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Here is something to TEST
Don Yarber wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Additionally, if we drop shipped, oh say, 100,000 pigs into
>Afghanistan
> >and
> > >> turn the pigs loose. The war would be over in a weekend.
> > >>
> > >> Just a thought.
Hmm. Add that to the fact they don't like their women to go to school, and
it would be like fighting Arkansas or Mississippi.:-) Piece of cake.
>From Ft. Smith, AR,
Matt
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 08:49:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Healey Search in San Diego
If anyone can help Bob, please respond directly to him as he is not a
lister. Thanks.
-----Original Message-----
From: bob turner [mailto:bturner@mcc.miracosta.cc.ca.us]
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2001 2:25 PM
My name's Bob. For many years, I've wanted an Austin Healey. In fact,
fifteen years ago there used to be a shop in Santee (maybe Lakeside)
California that restored Healeys I used to drive by just to look at them.
I couldn't afford one at the time, but stumbled on a basket case '69 Datsun
2000 for $100. So I bought it. I partially restored it, and it's fun to
drive, but it isn't an Austin Healey. I'm now in the position to buy one,
restored or to restore.
So here are my questions: 1) The shop is long gone, but I've love to find
out who ran it, if they moved and/or are still in business. Do you know of
them or do you know someone in the San Diego region who might know? 2) I've
done some internet shopping, but haven't had much luck finding anything. How
is the resale market and can you point me in a fruitful direction to find
one for my own?
Thanks for your time.
Bob Turner
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ruesinkl at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 12:23:10 EDT
Subject: BJ8 for Sale
I am selling my 1966 BJ8 (HBJ8L 33202). I've owned the car since 1980 and
the car was professionally restored in 1995. Car is black exterior with red
interior,
72 spoke Dayton stainless steel wire wheels. Very low mileage since
restoration.
I have all records for the car (including the BMIHT certificate) and a
complete photo book showing restoration process. I can provide color photo
copies of the car and restoration to any interested party. Car is
complete and in excellent shape throughout! I just don't drive it enough to
keep it any longer. Asking $34,000
If interested, please contact me by phone or e-mail.
Loren Ruesink
Ventura, CA
805-647-8513
ruesinkl@aol.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 09:44:21 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey Search in San Diego
Try Terry Cowan at:
http://www.toyshop-resto.com/pages/whoweare.html
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 12:49:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Search in San Diego
In a message dated 10/10/01 8:52:09, AHCUSA@excite.com writes:
<< My name's Bob. For many years, I've wanted an Austin Healey. In fact,
fifteen years ago there used to be a shop in Santee (maybe Lakeside)
California that restored Healeys I used to drive by just to look at them.
I couldn't afford one at the time, but stumbled on a basket case '69 Datsun
2000 for $100. So I bought it. I partially restored it, and it's fun to
drive, but it isn't an Austin Healey. I'm now in the position to buy one,
restored or to restore.
So here are my questions: 1) The shop is long gone, but I've love to find
out who ran it, if they moved and/or are still in business. Do you know of
them or do you know someone in the San Diego region who might know? 2) I've
done some internet shopping, but haven't had much luck finding anything. How
is the resale market and can you point me in a fruitful direction to find
one for my own?
Thanks for your time.
Bob Turner >>
Bob,
That shop was run by Neil Torr (Tohr-or something like that) I've heard
rumors that he works at Proformance somewhere in Santee. They do performance
engine work and such. Warren Voth of the Austin Healey Club San Diego knows
him fairly well and uses him still on some of his Healey work. I used to hang
around there looking at the cars too. My Healey at the time was pretty rough
back in '83
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 09:54:23 -0700
Subject: NO HEALEY CONTENT !!!
This from a lady living in Oregon. She has always been erudite, perceptive,
outspoken and provocative. She now writes opinion pieces under the name of
MataHarley.i.e. Mata Hari and Harley Davidson....
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2001 5:26 PM
Subject: newest "specific" threat.. airline assaults to continue
How pompous. This scum, proclaiming to be acting in the name of any God,
presumes to continue their threats of assault on American citizens. And,
instead of taking their due for their acts of unmitigated violence, they seek
help from the peaceful Muslims, those who do not sanction their actions, to
bail them out. While we go for them, they proclaim we go for all of Islam.
Their true colors are revealed.
If I thought, even for the barest nanosecond of a moment, that they had some
sense of bravery in their acts, that is now gone. There is no bravery in
fighting unarmed, untrained civilians. By all accounts, the terrorists' lives
are filled with so much hatred, violence and poverty that they seek the
pleasures of paradise in death instead of living them here on earth.
So just how "brave" is it to die when living is such hell?
Bill Maher... you are wrong. In the end, they are nothing less than the
*ultimate* coward. And now, like hiding behind the skirts of women and the
innocence of children, they seek peaceful Islamic bodies to shield them from
the fire and, in the next breath, threaten more of the same cowardly
assaults.
This war was not started by our country. Do not, for one moment, be cajoled
into believing that our bombing of an illegitimate government, made up of a
renegade group of violent despots, is the first act of a holy war. Quite the
opposite. We have been complacent for so long to prior attacks by al Qaeda,
and their ilk, that the unabashed attack of our country on 9:11 was a jarring
alarm - waking up not only our disbelieving Congress and military leaders, but
even the most uninformed of citizens.
Well... we're ALL "awake" now. And take careful note, the latest threat,
reported below, is "specific" enough. Look not only to your military.. look
to yourselves, for we must now all become warriors at home.
I'm sure it will only be a matter of hours before even the most "conservative"
of cable news stations (i.e. Fox) starts complaining that the government is
"not doing enough" to make her citizens safe. They have already started in
that vein following the incident aboard the American airlines flight enroute
to Chicago... where a passenger, clearly not in his right mind, broke into the
cockpit.
That episode was stopped dead in it's tracks... by the passengers. Yet the
aftermath finds some of the passengers wailing and whining. " Where are the
armed guards?", they say. "I thought it was supposed to be safe to fly". And
the media postures right along with them. There they all stand, wringing
their hands, extolling helplessness and indignation.
I just wanna smack the living daylights out of them.
Personally, give me a plane filled with those such as aboard Flight 93, or the
most recent American flight, and I'll fly every day back and forth across this
nation daily with not one whit of fear - armed marshall or not. Our nation
was not created and held for generations by those who, when attacked, sat back
and waited for rescue by others.
And, we will not keep our freedoms by perpetuating the myth that our safety is
the responsibility of firemen, police, the military or anyone other than
ourselves. That mindset HAS to change. NOW! Some women have already learned
to fight back against rape and assault in self-defense courses. They have
shaken off the mindset that they are "victims".
Now, our entire nation needs to learn that same lesson - or more will die.
The government cannot be our personal body guards 24/7... so quit your whining
and open your eyes. Isn't your life and freedom worth fighting for? It had
better be.. for they have told us unequivocably they are coming.
And as for those who won't lift a finger to save their own sorry asses and
complain when help can't or won't come?? ... well.. maybe they know better
than the rest of us that they're not worth the effort.
MataHarley
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 10:47:49 -0700
Subject: Need help with Healey website translation
Hello all,
I'm an editor of the DMOZ Open Directory Project. DMOZ provides many search
engines their directory listings. One of the directories I edit is one
dealing with Healey Clubs. See
http://dmoz.org/Recreation/Autos/Clubs/Makes/Austin_Healey/.
I need some translation help. A non-english Healey website was submitted
that I can't determine if it's a club website or a personal enthusiast's
website. See http://ahsprite.homestead.com/.
The brief description the submitter provided said "Op deze site vind u alles
over Austin Healey. Van de Sprite tot de 3000. En van auto tot rallycar!!
Dus kom gerust eens kijken op de Austin Healey pagina."
Can one of the multilingual listers help me out and let me know what the
site is about - other than Healeys - I got that much.
Thanks!
Brad Weldon
BN1 [226796]
http://bradw.com/
and contributing editor for DMOZ Open Directory Project http://dmoz.org/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 13:28:45 -0500
Subject: needed part ?
Anybody out there have an extra distributor housing as it is called in Moss
Catalog. , It is the part where the tach. cable attaches.Fits between
engine block and Distributor I hope I have made myself clear. Or does anyone
know how to fix a cracked one ? For a BT7 engine. Thanks Robert
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From win at gmi.net
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 18:31:20 GMT
Subject: Waterpump
I am replacing the waterpump on my 63 BJ7 and have run into a little problem.
I have taken out the radiator and removed the nuts holding the pump on but
can't get the pump off. How should a go about getting the pump "unstuck" so I
can replace it? Also, when I do get it removed and replace it with a new one,
what do I need to seal it with? I am assuming that some sort of sealant is
used so it won't leak. Thanks for the help
Win Graham
'63
BJ7
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using Endymion MailMan.
http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 15:06:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Waterpump
Hi Win,
First and foremost make sure that you have removed the 4, that is four,
nuts that hold the pump on. It is not too hard to miss one.
A stout piece on hardwood on the front end of the pulley and smack it
with a club hammer. It should be enough to break it free unless someone
has welded it on.
If the mounting surfaces are clean and flat the gasket alone will be
sufficient to prevent any leakage at the joint.
Good luck.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From phil at lesliecompanies.com (Phillip W. Leslie)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 14:30:48 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Engine Problem
I drove my BJ8 last Saturday with no problems except the idle seemed fast,
2000 to 2500 rpms. Next day, the engine, which normally fires right off,
seemed a little reluctant - but started. However, the power was way down and
the exhaust note is different. Seems like it may be running on one carb??
Any ideas before I start dismantling things?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 15:58:36 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Engine Problem
Hi Philip,
May be a long shot but I think there is a good possibility that one of
the needles has fallen out of one of the carbs.
It only takes a minute to lift off the suction chambers and check so
that is where I would look first.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Warrenberg at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 16:16:47 EDT
Subject: Healey hiccup
Guys,
One of us mentioned a sneeze in his Healey when it was cold ie. it would
cough and momentarily lose power. Was fine once it warmed up. Mine does the
same thing. I only saw one person's stab at the problem and he said it was
because of it running lean. Is that the source of the hiccup nee sneeze.
Thanks in advance.
Warren Berg
1961 BT7 and 1960 BT7 in-waiting as well as a 63 TR4 bridesmaid and a 71 280
SL back-up
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 15:19:21 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Engine Problem
phil,
bring it to tech session on sat.
happy healeying,
jerry
Phillip W. Leslie wrote:
>
>
> I drove my BJ8 last Saturday with no problems except the idle seemed fast,
> 2000 to 2500 rpms. Next day, the engine, which normally fires right off,
> seemed a little reluctant - but started. However, the power was way down and
> the exhaust note is different. Seems like it may be running on one carb??
> Any ideas before I start dismantling things?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 16:22:24 -0400
Subject: Problem fitting new air-intake tubes
I bought new 4 inch and 3 inch paper / foil air intake tubes for my fresh
air intake and heater intake, respectively. I tried last night to install
them and could not fit the 4" tubes over the metal intake flanges at each
end. The tubes seem to be just a smidgen too small to fit. This is a
problem at each end of the fresh air (driver's side) and with the intake
side of the blower motor.
Am I missing something here? The tubes seem to be very original in design
and appearance. Is there a way to expand the ends to fit? At $17@, I am
afraid of ripping them and going to duct tape to fix the rips.
BTW, the 3" one fits great with the thickness of a dime worth of clearance.
bothersome.
Ryan Ledwith
64 bJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 16:27:48 -0400
Subject: heater (again) butterfly control valve question
BJ7 Car -
OK, so last night was 2 hours of frustration. I need help! I removed the
butterfly valve / flap (3" wide ~5" long oval with width-wise groove in
middle for cross shaft) from the 3" intake tube to the heater box. Got it
cleaned up, got the box cleaned, and now am attempting to re-install the
flap and cannot figure how it should go.
I assume that the heater air control knob on the dash, when pushed in, seals
off the air flow, and when pulled out, allows air to flow through. Is this
correct?
Does anyone have a picture of how the heater control cable fits to the
heater box?
When I install it to open with a pull on the knob, I do not have enough
clearance at the control to allow the flap to move to fully open.
Also, does anyone have a source for the rubber gaskets that fit around these
flaps, that cost less than $15 each? At that price I'm tempted to re-use my
old flaps.
Ryan Ledwith
64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 16:41:37 -0400
Subject: RE: Forwarded: Tires for Big Healey
I just replaced mine with a set of Dunlop SP20's (165 SR 15).
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Meemeb@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 20:11:23 EDT
Subject: Tires for Big Healey
I have been driving my Healey for years on Michelin XZX 165 SR 15's and now
need to replace them but apparently they aren't made anymore. I don't race
my Healey but like to drive it hard and fast when I can. Of course I don't
drive in the snow but occaisonally drive in the rain. What is the best
tires
for my Healey?
------- End of forwarded message -------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 16:44:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey hiccup
In a message dated 10/10/01 13:20:29, Warrenberg@aol.com writes:
<< Guys,
One of us mentioned a sneeze in his Healey when it was cold ie. it would
cough and momentarily lose power. Was fine once it warmed up. Mine does the
same thing. I only saw one person's stab at the problem and he said it was
because of it running lean. Is that the source of the hiccup nee sneeze.
Thanks in advance.
Warren Berg
1961 BT7 and 1960 BT7 in-waiting as well as a 63 TR4 bridesmaid and a 71 280
SL back-up >>
First check the damper oil in the carbs.
If the oil is not too thick, or too thin,
next would be to check for a manifold gasket leak.
Or how the choke, idle air mix is tuned.
My car is a 100-6 (the most notorious for this behavior). Has anything
changed in your car since it last ran right? Missing drain tubes are enough
to throw it off. The throttle shafts can leak...
The carb pistons are usually the culprits. You've checked their movement and
such?
Hmmm...
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 17:37:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Problem fitting new air-intake tubes
Hi Ryan,
We always had the same problem with the most commonly available ducting
(the "stretch to length before installation" type).
We recently managed to purchase some of the original "Kopex" tubing and
have found that it is much easier to fit. I'm not saying that installing
the tubes into position is easy but it is easier if the tubing fits over
the adapters.
The Kopex stuff is about 20% more costly than the "stretch" stuff but
the additional is small cost for the frustration savings.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 18:48:27 EDT
Subject: Re: heater (again) butterfly control valve question
In a message dated 10/10/01 1:32:20 PM, ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com writes:
<< Does anyone have a picture of how the heater control cable fits to the
heater box?
When I install it to open with a pull on the knob, I do not have enough
clearance at the control to allow the flap to move to fully open >>
As wierd as it seems, the heater control knob is labeled "Push" for "Air from
Heater"
so the flap should be closed when the knob is pulled out, and open when the
knob is pushed in.
I don't know why they designed it that way, either.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 18:51:05 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Engine Problem
Philip
Could be one of many problems.
I would check to see that the fuel pump is delivering sufficient fuel.
Check for restrictions or air leaks in the fuel delivery system.clogged fuel
filter?
air leak around the intake manifold or throttle shaft?
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 18:50:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Forwarded: Tires for Big Healey
In a message dated 10/10/01 1:45:18 PM, schauss@worldnet.att.net writes:
<<
I just replaced mine with a set of Dunlop SP20's (165 SR 15).
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY >>
I think that is a good choice -- I've been running the SP20s for five years
on my 3000, with about 15,000 miles on them now and they still seem just
fine. The Dunlops are made with current technology and rubber formula so
aside from their size, they're as good as any regular price tire you can buy
to put on your Honda or Audi.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 19:19:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Waterpump
I would add that if you spray a penetrating oil around the mating flanges
and let it soak a bit it will help to release flanges that are bonded
together from heat, pressure, and time.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
To: <win@gmi.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: Waterpump
>
> Hi Win,
>
> First and foremost make sure that you have removed the 4, that is four,
> nuts that hold the pump on. It is not too hard to miss one.
> A stout piece on hardwood on the front end of the pulley and smack it
> with a club hammer. It should be enough to break it free unless someone
> has welded it on.
> If the mounting surfaces are clean and flat the gasket alone will be
> sufficient to prevent any leakage at the joint.
> Good luck.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 19:26:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey hiccup
My BJ8 has always "spit back" (cough/sneeze) when cold. It still does it
now when the carbs have been professionally rebuilt by Joe Curto, the
mixtures set with Colortune, and the choke adjusted according to the book.
It starts right up and idles fine, but will spit on acceleration until
warmed up unless I haul back on the choke. Because of that, I can believe
that the cause is running too lean.
Anybody have a physical explanation of what is happening when it spits?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Warrenberg@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 4:16 PM
Subject: Healey hiccup
>
> Guys,
>
> One of us mentioned a sneeze in his Healey when it was cold ie. it would
> cough and momentarily lose power. Was fine once it warmed up. Mine does
the
> same thing. I only saw one person's stab at the problem and he said it
was
> because of it running lean. Is that the source of the hiccup nee sneeze.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Warren Berg
> 1961 BT7 and 1960 BT7 in-waiting as well as a 63 TR4 bridesmaid and a 71
280
> SL back-up
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 19:32:48 -0400
Subject: Re: heater (again) butterfly control valve question
I think they designed the knobs so that you get heat with both pushed in and
cool air with both pulled out. Any other way would be confusing (heh, heh,
heh).
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: heater (again) butterfly control valve question
> As wierd as it seems, the heater control knob is labeled "Push" for "Air
from
> Heater"
> so the flap should be closed when the knob is pulled out, and open when
the
> knob is pushed in.
> I don't know why they designed it that way, either.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 19:46:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Problem fitting new air-intake tubes
> The tubes seem to be just a smidgen too small
> to fit.
>
Ryan,
I've found that if I gently expand the ends it makes it much easier. I used
an MGB Octagon knockoff tool because it was handy. You need something
circular that will expand the tubing as you gently work it in.
I ruined a piece trying to install it and ordered a new one from a different
supplier because it was faster. Quite a difference in fit between suppliers.
I don't like to name names but I have always found when you order parts from
people who actually work on Healeys you get a better quality part.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 17:20:49 -0700
Subject: Re: NO HEALEY CONTENT !!!
Umm, I thought this was an Austin Healey forum.
I, for one, come here for refuge from the more serious realities of the world.
Is there no place safe from having the world crisis put in our faces??
Fred Meyer
'58 BN4
kirk kvam wrote:
> This from a lady living in Oregon. She has always been erudite, perceptive,
> outspoken and provocative. She now writes opinion pieces under the name of
> MataHarley.i.e. Mata Hari and Harley Davidson....
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2001 5:26 PM
> Subject: newest "specific" threat.. airline assaults to continue
>
> How pompous. This scum, proclaiming to be acting in the name of any God,
> presumes to continue their threats of assault on American citizens. And,
> instead of taking their due for their acts of unmitigated violence, they seek
> help from the peaceful Muslims, those who do not sanction their actions, to
> bail them out. While we go for them, they proclaim we go for all of Islam.
>
> Their true colors are revealed.
> etc etc
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 17:29:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: LOS ANGELES BRITISH CAR MEET 2001
Los Angeles British Meet posponed 'till December 2nd!!!
Dear California Listers,
The traditional October 14th meet has been postponed until DECEMBER 2nd,
2001! This was
partially because of some scheduling problems but also because the Moss
Motors/Santa Monica Museum of Flying event moved from Spring to October and
when combined with Triumphest, The San Diego British Car Day, and a million
other car meets in September and October has led us to rethink what we are
doing and if there really is a need for yet another meet at the same time
of year.
The December date had mixed reviews at first but has caught on as it will
be one of but a few car events at the end of the year. There is less than
an 18% chance of rain and have already set this date for December meetings
and Christmas parties.
We are also considering moving the regular LA British Car Meet into the
spring as this could fill a gap on the LA British Car calender and get
people into dusting off and driving their British classics earlier in the
year. We thank you for supporting our efforts and hope these changes are
good for everyone in the SoCal area.
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
Meet Coordinator
Venice, California
*********************************************
THE GREATER LOS ANGELES BRITISH CAR MEET
WOODLEY PARK IN VAN NUYS
SUNDAY, DECEMBER 2nd, 2001
Be part of the biggest all British automotive lawn event in Southern
California. 400 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars are
expected to fill the field at Woodley Park in Van Nuys, for the 20th Annual
Los Angeles British Car Meet.
Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street
rods & works-
in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. Great British
food, live jazz, vendors and more fun than you'll be able to tolerate!
People's Choice awards will be given in five classes. There is no
preregistration. Cars will be placed on the field starting at 9:00AM and
the fun goes on all day long. The registration fee is $20 per car at the
gate. All participants will receive a commemorative gift. Spectators park
and attend free.
Woodley Park is located in Van Nuys, just north of the Ventura Freeway
(101), on Woodley Ave. between Burbank and Victory. From the San Diego
Freeway (405), take the Burbank Blvd. exit west, drive to Woodley Ave. and
turn right. Look for the entrance to the right. For information call:
310-392-6605 or email us at: rfeibusch@loop.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 20:33:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Tires for Big Healey
The XZX tires may or may not be made any longer, but I have been getting
them just fine from my local tire store. They order them for me. Lately
(as in with the last two months), I have also been getting them from Allen
Hendrix (http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com).
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From: Meemeb@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 20:11:23 EDT
Subject: Tires for Big Healey
I have been driving my Healey for years on Michelin XZX 165 SR 15's and now
need to replace them but apparently they aren't made anymore. I don't race
my Healey but like to drive it hard and fast when I can. Of course I don't
drive in the snow but occaisonally drive in the rain. What is the best
tires
for my Healey?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 19:12:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Problem fitting new air-intake tubes
<<The Kopex stuff is about 20% more costly than the "stretch" stuff but
the additional is small cost for the frustration savings.>>
Now THAT totally qualifys as an
UNDERSTATEMENT,
Mike!!!
BTDT!! PITA!!!!
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ZManDino at aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 21:13:36 EDT
Subject: Bright Healey lights on Oct. 11, 2001.
OCTOBER 11: National Day of Driving with Headlights On
Please join us and PLEASE forward this email immediately to everyone in
your address book asking them to also forward it. We have 12 days and
counting to get the word out all across this great land we love and call the
United States of America. Let's see how powerful email can be!
THE PROGRAM IS THIS: On Thursday, October 11, 2001, we are asking that
everyone in the USA who will be driving a motor vehicle that day drive with
their headlights on during daylight hours.
This will be the 30th day commemoration in honor of our fallen friends
desecrated by the terrorists' attacks on NYC, the Pentagon, and the
highjacked plane that crashed in PA.
The purpose of driving with headlights on this day will:
1). Show our respect, friendship, and tribute to all of those individuals
who lost their lives on that dreadful September 11, 2001 day.
2). Show our concern for the family members of those individuals.
3). Show those uncouth terrorists that the fabric of the USA is stronger
than steel.
4). Show that we Americans have solidarity standing shoulder to shoulder
against any terrorists' acts upon the USA.
5). Show our support for our President and our military during this time and
throughout the days to come.
You are welcome to add other points to the list when you send it on to your
friends and family. GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!
1960 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 18:57:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey hiccup
Warren -
A Hiccup when cold is typically caused by two things:
1. Mixture too lean - not enough choke is being
applied or needle is adjusted lean.
2. Not enough oil in dash pot - too lean of an oil can
cause this too, although making sure the dashpots are
full is key. Dashpots take 20W oil or SU/penrite carb
oil from any brit parts supplier.
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Warrenberg@aol.com wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> One of us mentioned a sneeze in his Healey when it
> was cold ie. it would
> cough and momentarily lose power. Was fine once it
> warmed up. Mine does the
> same thing. I only saw one person's stab at the
> problem and he said it was
> because of it running lean. Is that the source of
> the hiccup nee sneeze.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Warren Berg
> 1961 BT7 and 1960 BT7 in-waiting as well as a 63 TR4
> bridesmaid and a 71 280
> SL back-up
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 19:08:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey hiccup - explanation
Steve -
The reason you get a hiccup is when you accellerate
and the mixture is too lean, the mixture will burn
incompletely in a cylinder - and then on the next
cycle when the intake valve opens - it lets in fresh
cold air and fuel into the cylinder which will still
contain some residual partially burned hot gasses from
the previous cycle (that will therefore re-ignite with
the fresh air and fuel due to the heat & still
partially burning gasses left in the cylinder) - so
you get an instant (albeit somewhat minor) blowback
into the intake manifold.
Hope that explains it.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote:
>
> My BJ8 has always "spit back" (cough/sneeze) when
> cold. It still does it
> now when the carbs have been professionally rebuilt
> by Joe Curto, the
> mixtures set with Colortune, and the choke adjusted
> according to the book.
> It starts right up and idles fine, but will spit on
> acceleration until
> warmed up unless I haul back on the choke.
> Because of that, I can believe
> that the cause is running too lean.
>
> Anybody have a physical explanation of what is
> happening when it spits?
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Warrenberg@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 4:16 PM
> Subject: Healey hiccup
>
>
> >
> > Guys,
> >
> > One of us mentioned a sneeze in his Healey when it
> was cold ie. it would
> > cough and momentarily lose power. Was fine once
> it warmed up. Mine does
> the
> > same thing. I only saw one person's stab at the
> problem and he said it
> was
> > because of it running lean. Is that the source of
> the hiccup nee sneeze.
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Warren Berg
> > 1961 BT7 and 1960 BT7 in-waiting as well as a 63
> TR4 bridesmaid and a 71
> 280
> > SL back-up
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 22:11:27 -0600
Subject: Re: heater (again) butterfly control valve question
Hmmm! My experience is that you get heat when the knobs are pushed in and when
they are pulled out.
Cool air, what's that?
Bill Lawrence
Steve Byers wrote:
> I think they designed the knobs so that you get heat with both pushed in and
> cool air with both pulled out. Any other way would be confusing (heh, heh,
> heh).
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Toby Wellborn <t.wellborn at mindspring.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 01:28:27 -0400
Subject: Unleaded Petro Valves and Seats
Greetings,
Just had my Healey 3000 (BJ7) engine rebuilt and I'm questioning that
when rebuilding the head. Do the valve, valve seats and guides need to
be replaced to accommodate the switch from the use of regular (leaded
petro) to regular unleaded petro.
I have been told so many different stories... One mechanic says no and
another says yes. I just don't know which way to go with this....?
I'm sure that someone out there in Healeyland will know.... :-)
Toby Wellborn
64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 01:42:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Unleaded Petro Valves and Seats
Toby,
The only thing that gets replaced is special hardened valve seats to handle
the lack of lead...
Dave '59 BT 7
In a message dated 10/10/2001 10:30:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
t.wellborn@mindspring.com writes:
> Greetings,
>
> Just had my Healey 3000 (BJ7) engine rebuilt and I'm questioning that
> when rebuilding the head. Do the valve, valve seats and guides need to
> be replaced to accommodate the switch from the use of regular (leaded
> petro) to regular unleaded petro.
>
> I have been told so many different stories... One mechanic says no and
> another says yes. I just don't know which way to go with this....?
>
> I'm sure that someone out there in Healeyland will know.... :-)
>
> Toby Wellborn
> 64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 23:13:03 -0700
Subject: Re: heater (again) butterfly control valve question
Bill:
the two positions are:
heat (in this position you keep waiting for cool air but it never arrives unless
it ti s below 50 degrees F outside)
more heat
Ron
ynotink wrote:
> Hmmm! My experience is that you get heat when the knobs are pushed in and when
> they are pulled out.
>
> Cool air, what's that?
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Steve Byers wrote:
>
> > I think they designed the knobs so that you get heat with both pushed in and
> > cool air with both pulled out. Any other way would be confusing (heh, heh,
> > heh).
> >
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > BJ8 Registry
> > Havelock, NC USA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mark J Bradakis <mjb at autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 01:38:18 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Magpie's Song
[Warning: Long, rambling fund drive request ahead. mjb.]
Six A.M.
Sat down on excavation gravel
by juniper and desert S.P. tracks
interstate 80 not far off
between trucks
Coyotes - maybe three
howling and yapping from a rise.
Magpie on a bough
Tipped his head and said,
"Here in the mind, brother
turquoise blue.
I wouldn't fool you.
Smell the breeze
It came through all the trees
No need to fear
What's ahead
Snow up on the hills west
Will be there every year
be at rest.
A feather on the ground -
The wind sound -
Here in the mind, brother,
turquoise blue.
"Magpie's Song" by Gary Snyder
====
October 9th, 2001. It has been a long, dry summer here in Salt Lake City,
with record heat stretching into October. But last night a storm snuck in
on the heels of a cold front, and this morning I was pleased to see the
white dusting on the mountains above town. October 12th is coming right
up, the day that was traditionally celebrated as Columbus Day here in the
United States. Those of you who have been subscribed for a few years may
remember my "New World" message of October '99 referencing the voyages
sailing off into unknown territory - like me, when I started moving the
Team.Net services away from the U of Utah and to a machine here at home.
And it has worked out well. Some glitches here and there, but nothing too
serious. Well, some folks might think a whole weekend without their email
fix is quite serious, but in general there has been little downtime. And
I'd like to keep it that way, so here it is time for the semi-annual fund
drive.
But I must confess I feel a bit odd about asking for donations at the moment.
A lot of you here in the US of A have been bombarded with requests for money
from all directions for various relief funds. Some of you have already given,
perhaps not only your money, but your blood as well. One list member gave all
there was to give, crashing in a Pennsylvania field with Flight 93. Some of
you may be wondering if local shelters will be able to serve up those
Thanksgiving turkeys, if everyone gives what they have available to relief
funds for New York. What will this Christmas hold in store for those who
celebrate it - a time of joy and peace, or a time of loss and mourning?
No need to fear
What's ahead
Snow up on the hills west
Will be there every year
be at rest.
Life goes on. The sun is rising somewhere on the planet as you read this, a
new day dawning. Hmmm, with subscribers all over the world, can one say
the sun never sets on Team.Net? Earlier this year, I was thinking that this
fall fund drive would be a good chance to try and raise some extra dollars
above and beyond what is needed to cover the daily costs of operation. The
plan was to enhance the web server, perhaps getting another machine so that
the mail server could just do mail, and the web server could do web service,
and the FTP service as well, hopefully providing a bit better response with
the distributed load.
Some of the thinking behind that was to enhance the web service, including
making searchable archives for all the various lists available. The archives
at Listquest have basically been worthless for the last year, looks like
another dot com going belly dot up. So I was planning on making something
available for all the 80+ lists currently served here, as autox.team.net
or a few other domains. For an example of what I have in mind, check out
http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/british-cars
But getting such archives for all the lists in place would require more
disk space, more backup facilities, perhaps faster machines, and so on.
Maybe it will happen this fall, maybe it won't, we'll see. Boy, keeping
this Team.Net stuff going could drive me to drink!
Speaking of which, there's some new lists out there. A while back I set up
wtc@autox.team.net as a list for discussions about the World Trade Center and
Pentagon attacks. It has maybe half a dozen subscribers at the moment, not
one of the more popular lists. But it got me to thinking about how there
might be a use in having a list for general, sort of maybe automotive related
stuff, maybe just random blather about whatever. In the past I've mentioned
how some of the busier lists are a lot like going down to the local pub with
a thousand or so of your closest friends for a pint and some chat. So, I set
up a new list called the-local@autox.team.net. And on a whim there's also a
new list called single-malt@autox.team.net. These new lists are not under
the control of majordomo, but a different list manager, Mailman. If you've
got web access, go to
http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
Maybe someday I'll move all the lists to Mailman, or whatever's next, we shall
see.
That's the state of the autox.team.net world. Here's the request - contribute.
Contribute to the American Red Cross, contribute to the United Way of New York,
contribute to the local charities in your area that may be getting less than
they planned on, as folks give to national relief organisations. Make sure
you are contributing to a reputable group, there are numerous scams popping up,
I imagine.
And if you have 1, 5, 10, 20 or whatever dollars left over, consider sending
in some to support the continued existence of Team.Net. You can do this in
various ways:
Paypal - Send your contributions to team_fat@uswestmail.net
Checks - Send a check, payable to Fat Chance Garage, in US funds, to
Fat Chance Garage
PO Box 58333
Salt Lake City, UT 84158
The foreign currency request from the spring fund drive was quite successful,
I got Dollars, Pounds, Francs, Marks, Rupies, even an Australian Loonie. I
need to take a photo and get it on a web page. Thanks, everyone.
Visa, Mastercard: You can send the info to the Fat Chance address above, or
send a fax to 801-355-5438. Perhaps someday my parts business will have online
credit card processing. Maybe if I weren't spending so much time keeping the
lists running. No Discover or American Express at the moment.
If you can contribute, great, if you can't swing it this time around, no sweat.
We will survive.
mjb.
ps: Okay, maybe next time I'll have the scripts working so each subscriber
gets only one copy of this begging blather, rather than one copy for
each list they are on.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 11:14:54 +0200
Subject: Re: Need help with Healey website translation
Well, for me as beeing a German, this site is from someone in the
Netherlands (Niels Callenbach ?!). My "hollaendisch" (sorry don't know
the english word) is none but I get the idea that it is the "under
conctruction" website of personal enthusiast. But the link you are
quoting is the old URL if you click on the picture you will be
directed to
http://members.tripodnet.nl/callenbachniels/Welcome/welcome.htm. The
site is mostly empty right now -- under construction !
Hope I could help
Martin
Germany
BN 4 '59
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Weldon" <brad@bradw.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 7:47 PM
Subject: Need help with Healey website translation
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm an editor of the DMOZ Open Directory Project. DMOZ provides many
search
> engines their directory listings. One of the directories I edit is
one
> dealing with Healey Clubs. See
> http://dmoz.org/Recreation/Autos/Clubs/Makes/Austin_Healey/.
>
> I need some translation help. A non-english Healey website was
submitted
> that I can't determine if it's a club website or a personal
enthusiast's
> website. See http://ahsprite.homestead.com/.
>
> The brief description the submitter provided said "Op deze site vind
u alles
> over Austin Healey. Van de Sprite tot de 3000. En van auto tot
rallycar!!
> Dus kom gerust eens kijken op de Austin Healey pagina."
>
> Can one of the multilingual listers help me out and let me know what
the
> site is about - other than Healeys - I got that much.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad Weldon
> BN1 [226796]
> http://bradw.com/
> and contributing editor for DMOZ Open Directory Project
http://dmoz.org/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TBanks at LEVI.com
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 03:32:03 -0700
Subject: RE: Need help with Healey website translation
"Op deze site vind u alles
over Austin Healey. Van de Sprite tot de 3000. En van auto tot rallycar!!
Dus kom gerust eens kijken op de Austin Healey pagina."
I'm sure a native Dutch speaker will do better, but I read it as:
"You will find everything about Austin Healey on this site. From Sprite to
3000. From road car to rally car!! So, come on and have a look at the
Austin Healey pages."
The site looks like a somewhat incomplete private interest site. I found no
commercial connections.
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 08:17:51 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Engine Problem
Hi Phil,
Another thought on the carb problem.
Check that the clamps on the throttle link shaft between the carbs are
tight. One clamp could be slipping.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 05:48:54 -0700
Subject: Another Electrical Problem- Update
Last time, I reported to the list that I was having some strange electrical
problems with a installing a new wiring harness (neg, ground conversion).
This is an update of where I am today:
1). Far right light switch was installed upside down! (which is why I was
not getting the headlights to come on)-one problem solved.
2). I have isolated the other problem green wire on the upper right side of
the fuse block (upper fuse still blows)
3). The green wire out of the block that seems to be causing the problem is
the one that is on the middle terminal farthest away from the firewall)
{there are 5 total green wires feeding things like the fuel gauge, wiper
motor, heater motor etc.}. All the other green wires were re-attached one
by one to determine this. All others when connected do not blow the fuse
but I do not know what this green wire runs out to. Can anyone tell me?
4). Another strange thing is that with the key on, the only bulb that lights
on the panel is on the bottom of the tach. No other panel light seem to
work yet.
Can anyone show me the way to end of this problem? I am not exactly
proficient with a multimeter to trace things.
As a footnote, one thing that I did for piece of mind was to install an in
line fuse jumper cable and bi- passed the master battery switch at the
grounding terminal to frame.
dp
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DRKTYME at aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 09:10:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Archives on Listquest
I called them on Tuesday and talked to Colin. Apparently they were hit hard
by the last big virus and he is trying to restore it by tomorrow (Fri. 10/12)
I have called them many times when I could not access the list in the past
and have literally heard them restart the server in the background while I
was on the phone.
The archive is an invaluable asset for me and I can't complain about the
price!
Hopefully we will be able to access it soon. I'll keep calling!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 07:44:25 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey hiccup
Steve,
I bet the intake manifold heating arrangement is not very optimal for cold
running. When using headers, there will be no intake manifold heating so the
situation is worse. I live with it.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8 with headers
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brian Collins" <bcolins at airmail.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 10:20:04 -0500
Subject: Year of 100-4
I just got my title to my Nasty Boy candidate and it states it is a 1954
although the seller says it is a 53. Chassis # is 147455. Any thoughts on
this? I'm guessing it was manufactured late 53 and sold new as a 54.
Also would like a link to British Heritage if there is one available.
Brian Collins
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 11:21:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Another Electrical Problem- Update
3). The green wire out of the block that seems to be causing the problem is
the one that is on the middle terminal farthest away from the firewall)
{there are 5 total green wires feeding things like the fuel gauge, wiper
motor, heater motor etc.}. All the other green wires were re-attached one
by one to determine this. All others when connected do not blow the fuse
but I do not know what this green wire runs out to. Can anyone tell me?
********************
There are only 5 things on that circuit and there are feeds to flasher unit,
wiper motor, fuel gauge, tachometer and heater fan switch. So connect all the
wires that do not short out the fuse and see which one is not working. The
most llikley is the wiper motor connection it is real easy to connect them
wrong.
4). Another strange thing is that with the key on, the only bulb that lights
on the panel is on the bottom of the tach. No other panel light seem to
work yet.
*****************
There is only one light that should be on when the key is on and that is the
red light for the igniton warning light. This light should go out after
starting the engine telling you that the generator is charging.
********************
Can anyone show me the way to end of this problem? I am not exactly
proficient with a multimeter to trace things.
As a footnote, one thing that I did for piece of mind was to install an in
line fuse jumper cable and bi- passed the master battery switch at the
grounding terminal to frame.
dp
>>
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 12:14:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Another Electrical Problem- Update
In a message dated 10/11/01 5:52:09 AM, pattend@nortelnetworks.com writes:
<< 3). The green wire out of the block that seems to be causing the problem is
the one that is on the middle terminal farthest away from the firewall)
{there are 5 total green wires feeding things like the fuel gauge, wiper
motor, heater motor etc.}. All the other green wires were re-attached one
by one to determine this. All others when connected do not blow the fuse
but I do not know what this green wire runs out to. Can anyone tell me? >>
Just on the off-chance that my problem and yours were the same -- I had the
problem with the fuse on my lights etc. circuit blowing when I turned the
lights on. (Happened when I was on the concours field -- very embarrassing).
In my case, the problem was my flasher unit (the silver "can" to which one of
those green wires attaches to provide intermittent power to the turn signal
lights). I had inadvertently installed the flasher unit so that one of the
three connections was touching the body. So, of course, as soon as I turned
on the lights the circuit grounded to the body and blew the fuse. Turning the
flasher unit was all it took, but finding the problem took four days.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 12:16:17 -0400
Subject: Collection of 100s for sale
I am selling a collection of 100s that I have had for some time, so I
can concentrate on finishing the restoration of my BJ8.
Car No. 1
Registered as 1955, BN1L 223475
Body No. 5211 7616
Still in original Red colour
This car would have been produced about the first week of Feb/55, and
is my first 100 originally purchased back in September 1973. This car
is the best of the collection. It is reasonably complete,
mechanically and body wise, but it is rusty and would require a frame
off restoration. Engine still turns over by hand. Most of the
upholstery has disintegrated over the years.
Car No. 2
Registered as 1955, BN1L 161196
Body No. 1965 515
Chassis No. is 161196
Still in original Red colour
This car was original brought into Canada from Rochester NY in
October of 1971. I found it in a small town nearby to where we now
live and purchased it sometime in the early 80s. Frame and chassis
are rusty, but in restorable condition. Interior pretty well
nonexistent. Engine was stored outside with the head off, so engine
is seized. The plan was to use the engine out of the blue parts car
for this one.
Car No. 3
Registered as 1955, BN1L 150683
Body No. from plate is 4467 1405
Chassis No. is 150683
Original colour seems to be Healey Blue
This one is registered as a 55, but Rich Chrysler informed me that
the car was likely produced about the end of Dec/53.
This car was bought as a parts car back in 1974, mainly because it
came with an original white top in good condition. It still has a
complete drivetrain and suspension. The engine is in good condition,
but the frame and chassis are very badly rusted.
Also have bits and pieces for the 100s, such as an original soft top
(White) and frame, original side curtains, etc.
I would like to see them go as an entire collection, then I can
concentrate all my time on restoring the BJ8.
There you go! I hope that gives you some information about the
collection of 100s that I have here.
These cars are located in Canada, near Ottawa, Ontario
I am thinking of asking about $10,000 US for the collection, but will
consider any serious offer.
Should you know of a good home for them please let me know.
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 13:13:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Year of 100-4
Brian: According to the current bit I have in the new 100 Registry your
car was built in '53. Car #148956 was built Nov 30, '53, if my data is
correct. Depending on the state where first registered, and possible other
circumstances, it likely was first sold in 1954. From the list of changes
in Clausanger's book - commencing with #146476 a change was made in Oct '53
and with #148528 a change was made in Nov '53. So, on the assumption that
Serial #s were sequential during that period your car was built in either
Oct or Nov 1953.
When you get your Certificate from BMIHT, I'd appreciate a copy, or the
included information, in order to fill out the Registry data on that car.
>
>I just got my title to my Nasty Boy candidate and it states it is a 1954
>although the seller says it is a 53. Chassis # is 147455. Any thoughts
on
>this? I'm guessing it was manufactured late 53 and sold new as a 54.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 18:22:12 +0100
Subject: unleaded cylinder head
Toby,
I noticed your question to the group regarding the conversion to unleaded
gasoline for your Healey.
Firstly the Healey cylinder head is not fitted with valve inserts. During
manufacture, { the valves are cut directly into the cylinder head }
We fit hardened seats into the exhaust ports only and cut to three angles,
{there is a reason for this }.
The valve guides are changed to bronze.
Also the exhaust valves are changed to stainless steel ones.
Good luck.
Regards.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 13:08:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Need help with Healey website translation
Hi,
the English word would be Dutch.................HoYo
(who studied German for "drei Jahre im Hochschule",many,many years ago..
or was that in another life? hly
Helga & Martin Heim wrote:
> Well, for me as beeing a German, this site is from someone in the
> Netherlands (Niels Callenbach ?!). My "hollaendisch" (sorry don't know
> the english word) is none but I get the idea that it is the "under
> conctruction" website of personal enthusiast. But the link you are
> quoting is the old URL if you click on the picture you will be
> directed to
> http://members.tripodnet.nl/callenbachniels/Welcome/welcome.htm. The
> site is mostly empty right now -- under construction !
> Hope I could help
>
> Martin
> Germany
> BN 4 '59
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brad Weldon" <brad@bradw.com>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 7:47 PM
> Subject: Need help with Healey website translation
>
> >
> > Hello all,
> >
> > I'm an editor of the DMOZ Open Directory Project. DMOZ provides many
> search
> > engines their directory listings. One of the directories I edit is
> one
> > dealing with Healey Clubs. See
> > http://dmoz.org/Recreation/Autos/Clubs/Makes/Austin_Healey/.
> >
> > I need some translation help. A non-english Healey website was
> submitted
> > that I can't determine if it's a club website or a personal
> enthusiast's
> > website. See http://ahsprite.homestead.com/.
> >
> > The brief description the submitter provided said "Op deze site vind
> u alles
> > over Austin Healey. Van de Sprite tot de 3000. En van auto tot
> rallycar!!
> > Dus kom gerust eens kijken op de Austin Healey pagina."
> >
> > Can one of the multilingual listers help me out and let me know what
> the
> > site is about - other than Healeys - I got that much.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Brad Weldon
> > BN1 [226796]
> > http://bradw.com/
> > and contributing editor for DMOZ Open Directory Project
> http://dmoz.org/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 13:48:06 -0600
Subject: Re: unleaded cylinder head
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: unleaded cylinder head
> Healey list, et al
> This subject ie ripe for group discussion.....
> I don't want to necessarily start a controversy over this, but I'm very
> believing that the conversion to hardened seats, stellite valves, etc. is
a
> MUCH overrated idea. In the 20 odd years since the demise of leaded fuels
> (in this country), I have yet to see an unconverted head/valves/etc.
damaged
> by unleaded fuel. To the contrary, I HAVE seen several engines ruined by
> adding "lead replacements". This conversion, IMHO, is a strictly personal
> decision and has no basis in fact.
> You tell me....
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 BN1
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Ward" <david@bighealey.ltd.uk>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 11:22 AM
> Subject: unleaded cylinder head
>
>
> >
> > Toby,
> > I noticed your question to the group regarding the conversion to
unleaded
> > gasoline for your Healey.
> > Firstly the Healey cylinder head is not fitted with valve inserts.
During
> > manufacture, { the valves are cut directly into the cylinder head }
> > We fit hardened seats into the exhaust ports only and cut to three
angles,
> > {there is a reason for this }.
> > The valve guides are changed to bronze.
> > Also the exhaust valves are changed to stainless steel ones.
> > Good luck.
> > Regards.
> > David.
> >
> > David Ward
> > Big Healey
> > Tel: +44 1623 871908
> > Fax: +44 1623 871908
> > E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
> > http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 15:57:44 EDT
Subject: steering wheel
I'd like to replace my BJ8's steering wheel with a wooden one. Suggestions as
to an appropriate one, cost and sources appreciated.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Wood Jr" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 15:51:45 -0400
Subject: BN1L147455
Brian,
This car is about body 750 in the batch 4467 according to my records in the
AHCA registry and it means that it could be either a 1953 or 1954
"registration" because, if you will remember, in the USA the model years
always changed in October. Therefore, dealers would change the year of a
foreign car at the same time to make a car, perhaps manufactured in November
1953 into a 1954 car for sales reasons.
Check the body number on the cockpit surrounds to seeif it is in the early
700's. I am sure the batch is 4467 which was a large batch order going from
701 to 1500.
Let us know its facts.
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 16:22:29 -0400
Subject: Re: unleaded cylinder head
Dave, David & Toby and all,
I would have to agree with Dave's thoughts on this.
Prior to the demise of unleaded fuels we were repairing burnt valves on
MGB's very regularly. We would do 6 - 10 summer.
Since that time we have replaced virtually none!!.
Now certainly MGBs are not being used as much as they were back in the
early 80's but the change has been so dramatic that I'm inclined to
think that unleaded fuels have decreased valve burning problems rather
than the opposite.
In addition to this we are now getting the same engines with cracks (a
very common problem with MGB heads) right across the exhaust valve seat
yet the valve and seat have not burned away and the engine was operating
perfectly before the head was removed for some other reason.
No explanation just my observations.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Austin Healey <ah62bn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 14:14:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Too much Healey content
Dear Listers,
There is way too much on this list about Austin
Healeys. I certainly come here for the latest opinions
about the terrorist attacks since it is not being
covered by CNN or MSNBC.
But enough about the terrorists-what about poor Rush
Limbaugh's ears? Or Paula Poundstone?
Sincerely,
Austin
62 AH BN7
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 16:17:57 -0500
Subject: Re: unleaded cylinder head
Agreed. The short amount of time that we drive our LBC's in this area (IN)
doesn't warrant the extra expense and labor for this job. A good valve job,
highest octain gas and timely oil changes has worked for us since 1975. I
have spent the extra money on a few B heads to have this work done only to
end up selling the cars and most of the new owners really didn't seem to
care or know or understand what was actually done.
Thats money that could be spent for other areas, IMHO. Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: frogeye <frogeye@swcp.com>
To: frogeye <frogeye@swcp.com>; Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: unleaded cylinder head
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 BN1
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 12:39 PM
> Subject: Re: unleaded cylinder head
>
>
> > Healey list, et al
> > This subject ie ripe for group discussion.....
> > I don't want to necessarily start a controversy over this, but I'm very
> > believing that the conversion to hardened seats, stellite valves, etc.
is
> a
> > MUCH overrated idea. In the 20 odd years since the demise of leaded
fuels
> > (in this country), I have yet to see an unconverted head/valves/etc.
> damaged
> > by unleaded fuel. To the contrary, I HAVE seen several engines ruined by
> > adding "lead replacements". This conversion, IMHO, is a strictly
personal
> > decision and has no basis in fact.
> > You tell me....
> >
> > Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MegCC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 17:55:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Year of 100-4
Brian
I own bn1-L/148956, the build date is 11/30/53 with disposition date
12/19/53, the body is #923. Hope this helps.
Joe
BJ8 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 15:35:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Year of 100-4
(as sent to Brian already, but maybe of use to others. RW)
My car is 147419 and was built Friday November 13, 1953. Yours was
probably built the following week. Its body number is probably around
765 -- one of the first 1000 Austin Healeys made. That number is on
a small plate or tag screwed to the firewall in the engine compartment
on the passenger side. The engine number will be different. Some
other listee has probably already given you the BMHIT info.
I call my car a 1953 no matter what the DMV sez.
-Roland
On Thu, 11 Oct 2001 10:20:04 -0500, "Brian Collins"
<bcolins@airmail.net> wrote:
::
:: I just got my title to my Nasty Boy candidate and it states it is a 1954
:: although the seller says it is a 53. Chassis # is 147455. Any thoughts on
:: this? I'm guessing it was manufactured late 53 and sold new as a 54.
::
:: Also would like a link to British Heritage if there is one available.
::
:: Brian Collins
::
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 19:08:03 -0400
Subject: weird holes in my heater box ???
Listers:
OK, so I am assembling the heater box and I noticed that there are 3 holes
on the bottom panel that appear to be where bolts would have fit. Two of the
holes show signs of bending where a bolt may have been tightened too much,
or torqued one way or another.
Is there a legitimate purpose for these holes, or is it a left over from a
DPO project. Because I have a BJ8 dash, it is possible that it was used to
anchor the radio...??
Should I just plug them with some of the ubiquitous chassis plugs?
Ryan
BJ7
PS: sorry to hear that Rush is losing his hearing. Was hoping it would have
been his voice instead .. :) just kidding. Rush is probably a nice person.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 19:10:53 -0400
Subject: Heater Hose Brackets - ???
Listers:
I have only one of the large 4" diameter metal circular clamps (approx 10"
long by 1/2" wide bent in a round hoop) that anchor the intake tubes to the
fender well. It seems to bolt nicely behind the horns on the passenger side,
holding the heater tube intake. But some sources show that there is a
similar bracket on the fresh air intake which is anchored somewhere behind
the blinker signal relay switch.
Am I missing the 2nd one? If so, where does it anchor?
Ryan
64 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 19:15:29 -0400
Subject: Throttle Linkage repair
There is a neat article in this month's Austin Healey magazine on repairing
the throttle linkage bushing bed. They show how you can replace the worn
out original bed which was felt (or later changed to a compound rubber) by
using Permatex Ultra Black to anchor in the bush.
While I'm not a purist, is this a well accepted idea, since I cannot seem to
locate replacement bushing beds (the rubber stuff). Or is this a high-tech
duct-tape solution.
Wish me luck at the Yankees Playoff Game tonight. I sure there isn't another
New York City attack there.. oops, sorry not enough Healey content. Strike
that remark.
Ryan
BJ7
World Champions 1996 1998 1999 2000
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 19:25:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: steering wheel
In Canada, there is a member of the Austin Healey Club of Southern
Ontario that takes your old wheel on a core exchange basis and
transforms it into a beautiful woodrim wheel using either solid walnut
or mahogany. He operates a craftsmen furniture building business and
has the knowledge and skills to do a fantastic job. The price is
$495Cdn which translates into about $320US. For more information Dean
can be reached:
Phone : [519] 456-5064
Fax : [519] 456-5068
Web Site: http://www.craftsmensmanor.com
E-mail : craftsmen@execulink.com
{{NOTE: I have no financial interest, etc. etc....}}
Another option is the woodrim steering wheel by Moto Lita being offered
on eBay Item #596591383. It comes complete with hub and horn push to
fit most MG, Triumph and Austin Healey models and many others. I've
attached a 'Word' file with it's description and pictures.
--- COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote: << I'd like to replace my BJ8's steering
wheel with a wooden one. Suggestions as to an appropriate one, cost
and sources appreciated. >>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
Get your free @yahoo.ca address at http://mail.yahoo.ca
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name
of 2001-10-14 Woodrim Wheel.doc]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 20:20:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Throttle Linkage repair
Hi, Ryan -
I rebuilt my bushing beds using silicone rubber about three years and 15,000
miles ago. So far, so good.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 7:15 PM
Subject: Throttle Linkage repair
>
> There is a neat article in this month's Austin Healey magazine on
repairing
> the throttle linkage bushing bed. They show how you can replace the worn
> out original bed which was felt (or later changed to a compound rubber) by
> using Permatex Ultra Black to anchor in the bush.
>
> While I'm not a purist, is this a well accepted idea, since I cannot seem
to
> locate replacement bushing beds (the rubber stuff). Or is this a
high-tech
> duct-tape solution.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 17:35:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Austin-Healey Club Germany Website
Hi Team,
I just received advice of the new website of the Austin-Healey Club Germany:
---
Hallo Healey-Freundinnen und Freunde,
hier kommt die erste Info Meldung |ber den Internet-Auftritt des
"Austin-Healey Club Germany". Der AHCG ist seit einigen Tagen unter der
Web-Adresse www.ahcg.de im Internet vertreten. Dort gibt es auch schon
Informationen zur Eifel-Klassik vom letzten Wochenende. Schaut ruhig mal
rein. Die Seiten leben von Informationen, die nur von den Mitgliedern
kommen kvnnen. Darum keine Angst, gemailte Bilder und Texte werden gerne
vervffentlicht. Der Webmaster freut sich auch |ber Verbesserungsvorschldge
und Kritik.
Mit freundlichen Gr|_en und Happy Healeying
Webmaster AHCG
Christian Melzener
email webmaster@ahcg.de
---
If your German is rusty, Christian says, in so many words, "Hey, we got a
cool new wesbite. Check it out at www.ahcg.de and let us have your
suggestions and criticisms."
Mit freundlichen Gr|_en und Happy Healeying,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 18:32:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: steering wheel
Steve,
$320US Yikes!!
I had goodluck ordering a beautiful evenly spaced
three spoke wheel (like the 100S) from AH Spares in
the UK for about $120 pounds that included the hub.
There was an additional shipping charge as it had to
come to California (offset partially by no sales tax),
but even with that factored in it was still very
reasonable and arrived within a week.
No financial interest...Your experiences may vary...
Dean BN7
> The price is
> $495Cdn which translates into about $320US. For more
> information Dean
> can be reached:
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 21:32:25 EDT
Subject: UK events?
does anyone know of any LBC or car events going on the UK next week, 15 -21 ?
Looking to add some auto spice to a business trip.
(or a website I could look at for the same)
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7
'80 TR8 Coupe
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
'39 Dodge Business Coupe
Etc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 18:49:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: weird holes in my heater box ???
Ryan -
The bottom pan for the heater box should have no holes
drilled in it. I think it is relatively common for
people to mount polarity inverters or stereo amps here
(as I have done on my BJ8), so that's probably all it
is.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
wrote:
>
> Listers:
>
> OK, so I am assembling the heater box and I noticed
> that there are 3 holes
> on the bottom panel that appear to be where bolts
> would have fit. Two of the
> holes show signs of bending where a bolt may have
> been tightened too much,
> or torqued one way or another.
> Is there a legitimate purpose for these holes, or is
> it a left over from a
> DPO project. Because I have a BJ8 dash, it is
> possible that it was used to
> anchor the radio...??
>
> Should I just plug them with some of the ubiquitous
> chassis plugs?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
>
> PS: sorry to hear that Rush is losing his hearing.
> Was hoping it would have
> been his voice instead .. :) just kidding. Rush is
> probably a nice person.
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 21:58:43 -0400
Subject: Re: steering wheel
A friend of mine has a BJ8 with a steering wheel very much as described for
the Canadian wheel, and it is unique and very beautiful, I think. Most wood
wheels for Healeys have the modern-looking solid spokes, but this one has
the old banjo spokes of the original wheel, just a handcrafted, beautifully
manufactured wooden rim. I believe I was told the person who had the
wheel made paid about 500 bucks U.S. for it some time ago. Not sure if it's
the same craftsman, but I think not.
Christmas is coming up, and if anybody would like to give me a present, this
would be a good candidate!
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>; <COPPIFAN@aol.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 9:32 PM
Subject: Re: steering wheel
>
> Steve,
> $320US Yikes!!
>
> I had goodluck ordering a beautiful evenly spaced
> three spoke wheel (like the 100S) from AH Spares in
> the UK for about $120 pounds that included the hub.
> There was an additional shipping charge as it had to
> come to California (offset partially by no sales tax),
> but even with that factored in it was still very
> reasonable and arrived within a week.
>
> No financial interest...Your experiences may vary...
>
> Dean BN7
>
> > The price is
> > $495Cdn which translates into about $320US. For more
> > information Dean
> > can be reached:
> Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 21:38:49 -0500
Subject: What was that?
Lordy Ed, could you slow my mail down anymore than that. In this world of
not opening attachments, you really should list a little more detailed
subject line, IMHO.
Hope it wasn't too important cause it got the BIG DELETE KEY. What did I
miss, anything?
Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 19:46:22 -0700
Subject: Moss Catalog
OK, I guess we are not supposed to mention vendor names, but this is very
interesting, NOT a statement of quality (good or bad).
Just received a Jaguar catalog from Moss. Don't know why they sent it to
me, I don't own a Jag, (but I have spent some MINOR time helping a good
friend with the final work on a Series I XKE that just received a score of
99.6 points in the July concours at the JCNA meet in Seattle...not my
doing).
I was stunned/ amazed at what I found in this catalog. In addition to the
normal parts listing columns as we see in their Austin Healey catalog,
there is an additional column titled "Notes". This column (in the case of
many parts) lists the source of the part, such as: AE high compression, AE
stock compression (used to use AE pistons when racing a Bug-eye, good
quality), Vandervell, AE/Glacier, Borg&Beck, OE, Aftermarket, Alternative
for NLS OE, Not visually the same as orig, Lucas, Spax, Repro, Not Dana,
English repro, Unipart, Payden, OEM, etc, etc.
There was a thread a few months ago about how we might/would pay more if we
knew we were getting good quality parts. Why does Moss show the source for
Jag parts, and not for A-H parts?
Is anyone from Moss monitoring this List? Jonathan Lane, Where are you?
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK2 (times 2)
'62 BT7 MK2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 21:58:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Throttle Linkage repair
Never even heard the term "bushing bed" until tonight. And now I even know
how to fix one. Where would we be with out our "rubber in a tube" and "50
mile an hour tape".
Thanks for the tips.
I think I'll go put my bushing to bed now. Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
To: 'healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: Throttle Linkage repair
>
> Hi, Ryan -
> I rebuilt my bushing beds using silicone rubber about three years and
15,000
> miles ago. So far, so good.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 21:15:55 -0700
Subject: Unleaded head conversions
Hi,
Don't know about the Healey yet but my 1970 Chev pickup has gone 150,000+
miles since lead was removed from gasoline for a total of over 220,000 miles
on the original unrebuilt engine without a problem. My other old cars have
likewise not had any problems with unleaded fuel.
I would probably have the conversion made if the head required rebuild
anyway. If not, run it until it pukes.
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 00:21:51 -0400
Subject: RE: Throttle Linkage repair
I used a small piece of black rubber hose of appropriate diameter.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 7:15 PM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: Throttle Linkage repair
There is a neat article in this month's Austin Healey magazine on repairing
the throttle linkage bushing bed. They show how you can replace the worn
out original bed which was felt (or later changed to a compound rubber) by
using Permatex Ultra Black to anchor in the bush.
While I'm not a purist, is this a well accepted idea, since I cannot seem to
locate replacement bushing beds (the rubber stuff). Or is this a high-tech
duct-tape solution.
Wish me luck at the Yankees Playoff Game tonight. I sure there isn't another
New York City attack there.. oops, sorry not enough Healey content. Strike
that remark.
Ryan
BJ7
World Champions 1996 1998 1999 2000
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 00:40:55 EDT
Subject: Re: steering wheel
In a message dated 10/11/01 12:59:37 PM, COPPIFAN@aol.com writes:
<< I'd like to replace my BJ8's steering wheel with a wooden one. Suggestions
as
to an appropriate one, cost and sources appreciated. >>
At the risk of seeming disloyal to the breed (a standard Derrington-style
wheel with straight-cut aluminum spokes is the proper answer, and several
suppliers make them), I'd suggest you look for a wooden wheel for an AC, of
the sort that would have been supplied as an option with the AC Ace, Bristol,
or (heaven forbid) Cobra. The original wheels for the AC roadsters were
identical to the wheels used on the Healeys (Bluemels manufactured, I think)
so the fit is the same. The difference is that the optional wooden AC wheel
has lovely crescent-shaped spokes. Would look very nice on a BJ8.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 00:48:51 EDT
Subject: Forwarding: Tires for Big Healey?
I can answer Healeygal myself, but she would appreciate list opinions as well.
Cheers
Gary
Return-path: <Healeygal@cs.com>
From: Healeygal@cs.com
Full-name: Healeygal
Message-ID: <16c.23f6cc1.28f7a389@cs.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 21:38:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Forwarded: Tires for Big Healey
To: Editorgary@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: CompuServe 2000 6.0 for Windows US sub 10503
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
I have a set of Dunlop SP4 on my BN1 - they are 11 years old. For the first
9 years, the car sat around a lot, 3 to 6 months at a time and longer. For
the last 2 years, I have been driving it regularly - they look OK - should
they be checked/replaced?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 00:51:15 EDT
Subject: Re: steering wheel
In a message dated 10/11/01 21:43:08, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< I'd like to replace my BJ8's steering wheel with a wooden one. Suggestions
as
to an appropriate one, cost and sources appreciated. >>
The Derrington wheel can be seen, along with the Mota lita slotted wheel at
my site:
http://members.aol.com/wilko
Click the small steering wheel picture in the bottom row of pictures.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 23:12:39 -0700
Subject: Originality?
Hi,
This question is directed mainly to Gary Anderson, but any opinions will be
of value.
I am at the begining of a restoration of a very early Abington built BN4.
It has many unusual but not necessarily desireable features. It came with
the original 6 port head, but otherwise is a typical first batch BN4. It
has the sliding top frame mount and associatiated interior details, the
Trafalgar windshield washer with the singe nozzle, and the engine is painted
the original Morris olive green. I have a second batch top frame, side
curtains, and rear seatback. The car also has disk wheels.
My Question is this. Are any of these original features worth preserving?
Should I hunt down the proper first batch top frame, side curtains, and seat
back? The single squirter seems to be difficult to find and quite expensive
compared to the $4.95 each for the twin squirters. A proper conversion to
wire wheels appears to entail changing the brakes as well. Should I do a
restoration of convenience or should I attempt to preserve these unusual
features. The car is less that pristine but quite restorable.
Please advise.
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 07:05:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Unleaded head conversions
Following the thread on unleaded fuel I don't know if I have benefitted
from the practice of adding a few ounces of "Marvel Mystery Oil" to my
gastank with each fill up? I also was of the opinion that lead additive to
these older engines was important?
Have also diligently tried to use the highest octane available,93 or
94(Sunoco). On occasion have added 100LL aviation fuel befor the price went
beyond reason.
Opinions on these practices please. The odometer has over 160,000. Still
uses(loses) about 1QT. oil in 1,000-1,200 miles as it did when new! Runs
smooth. Compression even(getting lower). I hold my breath and keep my
fingers crossed a lot!?
Warren
67BJ8
>From: "John Peak" <johnepeak@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: "John Peak" <johnepeak@hotmail.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Unleaded head conversions
>Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 21:15:55 -0700
>
>Hi,
>
>Don't know about the Healey yet but my 1970 Chev pickup has gone 150,000+
>miles since lead was removed from gasoline for a total of over 220,000
>miles
>on the original unrebuilt engine without a problem. My other old cars have
>likewise not had any problems with unleaded fuel.
>
>I would probably have the conversion made if the head required rebuild
>anyway. If not, run it until it pukes.
>
>John
>'58 BN4
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 07:34:19 -0400
Subject: RE: Originality?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of John Peak
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 2:13 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Originality?
Hi John,
I also have one of these cars, mine was built in March of 1958 and is #
58563. For the most part mine has not been taken apart and I have a lot of
pictures these unique features. Mine must be a little later than yours is
because my engine is the lighter green.
My opinion is that I like the odd features that make it unique.
Rick Lees
58 BN4
Hi,
This question is directed mainly to Gary Anderson, but any opinions will be
of value.
I am at the begining of a restoration of a very early Abington built BN4.
It has many unusual but not necessarily desireable features. It came with
the original 6 port head, but otherwise is a typical first batch BN4. It
has the sliding top frame mount and associatiated interior details, the
Trafalgar windshield washer with the singe nozzle, and the engine is painted
the original Morris olive green. I have a second batch top frame, side
curtains, and rear seatback. The car also has disk wheels.
My Question is this. Are any of these original features worth preserving?
Should I hunt down the proper first batch top frame, side curtains, and seat
back? The single squirter seems to be difficult to find and quite expensive
compared to the $4.95 each for the twin squirters. A proper conversion to
wire wheels appears to entail changing the brakes as well. Should I do a
restoration of convenience or should I attempt to preserve these unusual
features. The car is less that pristine but quite restorable.
Please advise.
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 04:43:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Healeys in the Sand
Hi Team,
I was delighted to open the October 6th-12th issue of The Economist (for
those of you living in Rio Linda, that's a British magazine covering
international affairs with an emphasis on economics) and found, inside the
front cover, an ad for Credit Suisse with a large photo of an Austin-Healey
made of sand, a la sand castles and other such sculptures.
I'm not sure, but I think the photo may have been made at the 1985 West
Coast Meet (former name of the annual Healey Rendezvous (for more info see
<http://www.healey.org/rendezvous.shtml>), the annual meeting sponsored by
the Austin-Healey Club USA. The event that year was held at Monterey,
California, and the event chairman was Bruce Erfer (former club officer and
founder of British Wire Wheel, from whom many of you have purchased your
wire wheels). The sand Healeys were Bruce's idea, and he organized two
teams, each building one sand Healey on some sort of competitive basis (I
don't remember exactly what the competitive element was, maybe a Popular
Choice vote afterwards?).
In any case I can remember being skeptical that this idea would catch on,
but it was in fact very popular and great fun, and I supplied a Healey
Hundred grill to finish off the one that my team built. The one depicted in
the ad is of a six-cylinder big Healey (we know this because it clearly has
a bonnet air airlet in place).
The caption under the photo reads:
INVENTIVE Driven by Ideas. Geared to the future. Confident.
So for you collectors of anything and everything Healey, don't hesitate!
The Economist is a weekly and it won't be on the shelves for long! Good
luck.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/ (Updated October 1)
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Tomdamit at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 10:39:01 EDT
Subject: Unleaded additive
Among many other Healey related items I still have from over the last 25
years, I do have an unopened case of "Real Lead" made by 104+. It contains
real lead (hence the name) and raises the octane of unleaded fuel a couple
point. The case will treat 120 gallons of gas. The case is 6 large (approx.
1 qt., I think) cans. Original price was about $10 per can. Any offers?
Tom Ware
Riverside, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From phil at lesliecompanies.com (Phillip W. Leslie)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 09:58:55 -0500
Subject: Stuck main jet
The main jet on the rear carb on my BJ8 seems to be frozen. Won't go up or
down. Is there any way to free it up without a rebuild?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 11:31:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Stuck main jet
Hi Phil,
Pretty tough to do on the car.
You can actually remove the lower section of the carb below the
diaphragm (4 slot screws) which would allow you to drive the old jet and
diaphragm out, but reassembly, "the reverse of disassembly" as the
manual would say, is really difficult.
I would recommend removing the carbs.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 11:25:45 -0400
Subject: RE: Throttle Linkage repair
Whoa! That's the first flame I've had in awhile.
I guess it would hurt if I cared.
Is this guy for real?
Ryan-
BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Mr. Finespanner [mailto:MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net]
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 9:45 AM
To: Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
Subject: Re: Throttle Linkage repair
Ryan,
I don't think you will find much of my stuff "a well accepted idea" since I
rarely write about ordinary Healey topics. For the most part the material
is mine, and the product of more than 30 years of Healey experience. If
you are the sort of lemming that requires corroboration from amateur sources
then the "Mr. Finespanner" articles may not be advantageous to
you, as they are written by a professional Healey mechanic and not by an
editor, a lawyer, or some other type of dilettante with an opinion but no
real experience. If it's any help, I am the ONLY U.S. Healey specialist
that Donald Healey would recommend to other people, over Healey
Surgeons, Fourintune, British Car Specialists, and all others.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 7:15 PM
Subject: Throttle Linkage repair
>
> There is a neat article in this month's Austin Healey magazine on
repairing
> the throttle linkage bushing bed. They show how you can replace the worn
> out original bed which was felt (or later changed to a compound rubber) by
> using Permatex Ultra Black to anchor in the bush.
>
> While I'm not a purist, is this a well accepted idea, since I cannot seem
to
> locate replacement bushing beds (the rubber stuff). Or is this a
high-tech
> duct-tape solution.
>
> Wish me luck at the Yankees Playoff Game tonight. I sure there isn't
another
> New York City attack there.. oops, sorry not enough Healey content.
Strike
> that remark.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
> World Champions 1996 1998 1999 2000
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 11:30:01 EDT
Subject: Re: steering wheel
In a message dated 10/11/01 22:52:10, rader@interworld.net writes:
<< this derrington wheel is so much more functional that the moto lita.
i have a hard time seeing the gauges while driving with the mota lita
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8 >>
Exactly. That's why I had the Mota Lita upside down, then got the Derrington
instead.
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Wesp11 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 12:06:18 EDT
Subject: 66 BJ8 4 sale
I have a 1966 BJ8 for sale, I hope it is not inapropriate to mention in this
forum,
complete original car needs restoration
sitting since 1984
blue w/black interior
typical rust, outrigers are rusted drivers floor weak, doglegs etc,
comes with some replacement patch panels(moss)
80000 miles
running car when parked, everything worked, motor turns fine and I know will
run with minimal effort
located in St.louis Mo
$7500 firm
thanks
Hugh Schaeffer
314-306-0709
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 12:42:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Stuck main jet
Phillip,
Another common problem with the same symptoms is when the shaft that
activates the fast idle off the choke freezes in place in the carb body.
You can check for this by pressing down on the screw on top of the shaft
with the choke off. It should move down freely about a quarter inch, then
spring back up without binding. The fast idle shaft
is made of brass, so they don't stand up well to force, but they can be
freed up with a good penetrant like Kroil or Busty.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phillip W. Leslie" <phil@lesliecompanies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 10:58 AM
Subject: Stuck main jet
>
> The main jet on the rear carb on my BJ8 seems to be frozen. Won't go up or
> down. Is there any way to free it up without a rebuild?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 12:48:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Originality?
In a message dated 10/11/01 11:14:55 PM, johnepeak@hotmail.com writes:
<< I am at the begining of a restoration of a very early Abington built BN4.
It has many unusual but not necessarily desireable features. It came with
the original 6 port head, but otherwise is a typical first batch BN4. It
has the sliding top frame mount and associatiated interior details, the
Trafalgar windshield washer with the singe nozzle, and the engine is painted
the original Morris olive green. I have a second batch top frame, side
curtains, and rear seatback. The car also has disk wheels.
Should I do a
restoration of convenience or should I attempt to preserve these unusual
features. The car is less that pristine but quite restorable.
Please advise.
John
'58 BN4
This opinion isn't meant to be any sort of "from-on-high" ruling, so take it
as just one person's thought.
There are very few of the first-series BN4s left in any kind of running
condition anymore (surprising, considering how many of them were built), so
it seems a shame to me to lose the details on one of these now-unusual cars.
I remember that knowledge of them was once so scarce that one was dropped
from a concours judging because the judge insisted that the interior details
were completely wrong. (That was way back in the early 1980s, it should be
noted).
Personally, I would like to see it restored as close to original as possible
so that we have some of the first-series BN4s to look at. However, I
recognize that it may be difficult to get some of the pieces, but they are
around. Perhaps you could do it in two stages -- substitute for what you
can't find as needed to get it back on the road while continuing to hunt for
the right stuff, putting that on the car as you find it.
Just be careful not to change things irretrievably. For example, you could
install the second-series interior pieces for that top for the time being,
then when you find a first-series top bows make the change, but don't drill
the shroud to accept windshield washer nozzles-- just plug the center hole
until you find a nozzle.
Good luck,
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 12:50:42 EDT
Subject: BMIHT certificates.
In a message dated 10/11/01 9:38:50 AM, bcolins@airmail.net writes:
<<
Also would like a link to British Heritage if there is one available. >>
the email link to the archivist Gillian Bardsley is Gbardsle@landrover.com
(Land Rover/Ford owns the Gaydon property and operates BMIHT now).
You can get a certificate by emailing your visa or mastercard number and exp
date, your name and address, and the VIN number from your car. Cost is $40.
Alternatively,
you can snail mail a check to BMIHT Archive dept, Banbury Road, Gaydon,
Warwick, CV35 0BJ England. Make check out to BMIHT.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 12:51:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Forwarding: Tires for Big Healey?
Healeygal,
I had an identical situation and I advise you to replace them. When I bought
my Healey several years ago, it had a set of Dunlop SP4 tires that looked
O.K., maybe 70% of the tread life remaining. The tires had been on the car
at least eight years, maybe longer. The previous owner seldom drove the car.
Within six months (4 to 5K miles driving) two of the tires developed tread
seperations. Fortunately, it did not cause an accident.
I replaced them with new Dunlop SP20 165-15 tires, which are great. They
only cost around $45 each, so running risky old tires is not worth it.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
> I have a set of Dunlop SP4 on my BN1 - they are 11 years old. For the first
> 9 years, the car sat around a lot, 3 to 6 months at a time and longer. For
> the last 2 years, I have been driving it regularly - they look OK - should
> they be checked/replaced?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 12:38:26 -0700
Subject: ebay 3000 race car
There is a 3000 race car for sale on Ebay. Anybody want to be a partner? It
doesn't hurt to ask.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Austin Healey <ah62bn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 13:14:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BMIHT certificates website
Dear bcolins,
Here is the website for BMIHT certificates:
http://www.heritage.org.uk/archive/trace%20certificate.htm
Sincerely,
AH
62 BN7
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bradley H. Simmons" <email at liquidparadigm.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 16:09:22 -0500
Subject: Engine Paint Delivery and Quality
I am aware of "Healey Green" engine paint sold by Moss Motors
and POR-15 and I am sure that there are other vendors that I
am not aware of; my intended use is for pre painting engine
parts prior to the assembly of the engine which may span a
year or more. Considering the size of many of the parts I
would prefer the convenience of a spray can as opposed to
using my compressor and spray gun although I am in no way
opposed to it if a substantial difference exists between the
two.
What is the most accurate and best quality engine paint
currently available in both "aerosol" and "unmixed" delivery
methods?
Furthermore, I am interested as to if anyone has any input
regarding primers and/or preparation of aluminum and steel
parts.
All responses are, as always, greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Bradley
'58 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:57:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: problem fitting the O/D on the gearbox. Bloody cam!
Hi,
I have spent at least 4 hours trying to fit the OD on the gearbox
already (AH3000 BJ7). I cannot get the OD pump roller over the cam. I
have tried all kinds of tricks (steel wire clamp, wire) already. I
even managed to have the carefuly aligned splines in the back of the
OD move with respect to each other! I will have to de-mate and
re-mate the interface plate to the OD case again (I have 1 spare
gasket left).
I am now changing my baseline and will mate the interface plate to
the gearbox first and then put the OD, so as to have better access to
the roller. This is the way NOT to do it acording to the shop
manual...
Does anyone have the magic trick?
Francois
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 16:22:50 -0600
Subject: RE: problem fitting the O/D on the gearbox. Bloody cam!
Hi,
Install the pump last. That is, complete the mating operation and when
that's all buttoned down, install the pump.
When I did my gearbox/OD overhaul, I used the mainshaft from the gearbox as
a guide to stack all the various layers of the OD. That way I knew
everything was aligned at all times. When the big moment came, the OD just
slid into place without needing even a nudge. The pump went last.
At least, that's the way I remember it....
Good luck,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: francois wildi [mailto:fwildi@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 2:58 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: problem fitting the O/D on the gearbox. Bloody cam!
Hi,
I have spent at least 4 hours trying to fit the OD on the gearbox
already (AH3000 BJ7). I cannot get the OD pump roller over the cam. I
have tried all kinds of tricks (steel wire clamp, wire) already. I
even managed to have the carefuly aligned splines in the back of the
OD move with respect to each other! I will have to de-mate and
re-mate the interface plate to the OD case again (I have 1 spare
gasket left).
I am now changing my baseline and will mate the interface plate to
the gearbox first and then put the OD, so as to have better access to
the roller. This is the way NOT to do it acording to the shop
manual...
Does anyone have the magic trick?
Francois
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 18:33:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Paint Delivery and Quality
In a message dated 10/12/01 2:13:47 PM, email@liquidparadigm.com writes:
<< What is the most accurate and best quality engine paint
currently available in both "aerosol" and "unmixed" delivery
methods? >>
I like the Hirsch engine paint best. Color is good and it has reasonable heat
resistance-- it can be diluted slightly to be sprayed, but is thick enough so
that it can be brushed on to do touch-ups. In between those two, there
doesn't seem to be a lot of need for an aerosol.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Henry Shervem <henry at cowlick.vmtrc.ucdavis.edu>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 15:50:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Steering Wheel
I am trying to remove the steering wheel from my 55 100/4.
The nut and washer came off easy, and the wheel slides out about
1/4 inch then stops hard against metal.
I don't want to damage the wheel by force.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 19:09:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Paint Delivery and Quality
Bradley:
Check out Bill Hirsch at:
http://www.hirschauto.com/
They carry a full line of resto paints and are well known for their quality.
They have Healey Green, but only in non-aerosol form (other colors in
greater demand come both ways).
I have used their Black Chassis Paint (which does come in aerosol form as
well as cans) and found it to be excellent. So much so that I abandoned my
plans to use the Moss Spray Cans to paint the parts as I go (and ate two cans
of Moss paint I already had) and am now grouping them and firing up my detail
spray gun. It may well not be worth it, but I want my engine to stay Healey
Green as long as possible.
No interest commercial or otherwise, etc.etc.
Cheers,
John Cope
62BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bradley H. Simmons" <email@liquidparadigm.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 5:09 PM
Subject: Engine Paint Delivery and Quality
>
> I am aware of "Healey Green" engine paint sold by Moss Motors
> and POR-15 and I am sure that there are other vendors that I
> am not aware of; my intended use is for pre painting engine
> parts prior to the assembly of the engine which may span a
> year or more. Considering the size of many of the parts I
> would prefer the convenience of a spray can as opposed to
> using my compressor and spray gun although I am in no way
> opposed to it if a substantial difference exists between the
> two.
>
> What is the most accurate and best quality engine paint
> currently available in both "aerosol" and "unmixed" delivery
> methods?
>
> Furthermore, I am interested as to if anyone has any input
> regarding primers and/or preparation of aluminum and steel
> parts.
>
> All responses are, as always, greatly appreciated.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bradley
> '58 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 17:02:05 -0600
Subject: Gear box seals
Does one need to separate the bell housing from the tran on a 65 BJ8 to renew
the front seal? Can someone give me a brief step by step on both front and
rear seals. Engine comes back from rebuilt shop next week. At 130 thou miles
one broken ring and worn cam lobes only. Strong machine. Any speculations on
condition of tran beside seals?
Vroom Vroom
Sid 65BJ8 thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 17:32:50 -0600
Subject: RE: Gear box seals
Hi,
I can't for the life of me remember how the front gearbox seal is replaced.
Since I had the bellhousing off anyway as part of a complete gearbox
rebuild, I didn't pay much attention.
That being said, take a peek at the first motion shaft where it enters the
bellhousing. If the seal is visible, it will be fairly obvious if it can
be taken off from the front. I'd be willing to bet it can be done without
pulling the bellhousing.
The rear seal I do remember. Pull the flange off the OD after removing the
large nut and washer. The seal will be visible and can be taken off from
the back without disturbing the innards. When you replace the nut, be
careful not to torque it too much. You will notice that the flange itself
is the surface that seals against the oil seal, not the shaft (speaking with
respect to a Phase II gearbox which may or may not be the same as yours).
If the gearbox feels fine and has not given trouble, it's up to you whether
you want to get into it. Popping the top cover off will allow you to
inspect the baulk rings to see, by their clearance, how much life is left.
You can also wiggle the layshaft to assess the condition of the layshaft and
needle bearings. Same for gears, check for worn and broken teeth.
Replacing any of these components will call for a teardown. I have heard
that the layshaft wears easily and it was certainly true of my unit.
Also, check the forks that engage the sliders. Forks are made of brass and
can wear, depending on how one has treated the shifter. This is also easy
to see from the top.
If you have a persistent, yet mysterious oil leak from under the shifter
area, check the small oil seal that is buried in the top cover where the
control rod emerges to mate with the shifter.
Then, of course, there's that OD...(which is actually not difficult to
overhaul).
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: bronson [mailto:bron@rmci.net]
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 4:02 PM
To: Healey
Subject: Gear box seals
Does one need to separate the bell housing from the tran on a 65 BJ8 to
renew
the front seal? Can someone give me a brief step by step on both front and
rear seals. Engine comes back from rebuilt shop next week. At 130 thou
miles
one broken ring and worn cam lobes only. Strong machine. Any speculations
on
condition of tran beside seals?
Vroom Vroom
Sid 65BJ8 thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 00:42:38 +0100
Subject: Re: problem fitting the o/d on the gearbox. bloody cam!
Francois,
I noticed your e-mail to the group with o/d problems.
Line the internal splines up with a probe.
Wire the pump operating plunger as far back into its seat as possible and
fasten the wire around the external studs.
Move the operating cam into a position so as the high part is the cam is
furthermost away from the pump plunger.
Roughly line the splines up by sight.
secure the gasket between the two mating surfaces with a smear of grease on
the gasket faces.
mate the gearbox and overdrive together,{don't forget the springs }.
Feed the two splines together and when mated draw the two surfaces together
with "Mole grips"{one each side of the overdrive near to the draw studs}
until you are able to secure the nuts onto the "draw" studs.
If during this operation the two splines are not quite in phase you can rotate
the rear flange on the overdrive in a anti-clockwise direction without the
splines dropping out of phase.
Unfortunately the Laycock model "A "overdrive is fitted with a coarse spline
unlike the "J" model that has a fine spline, and is far easier to locate.
Don't forget to withdraw the fine wire prior to bolting fully up so as to
enable the pump to locate onto the operating cam.
Good luck.
Regards.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 09:41:49 +1000
Subject: Sprite books
My nephew (inspired by his uncle?) has just purchased a Sprite Mk II and is
looking for appropriate books on Sprites. Any ideas?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 17:18:54 -0700
Subject: Bleumels
Regarding Bleumels-
In my bicycle shop days in the mid 70's, be sold tons of mudguards made by
Bleumels, imported from Britain via our Raleigh franchise. They had adjustable
steel stays, and came in many colours.....a mandatory touring bicycle accessory
at the time.
I wonder if Bleumels is still around?
Fred Meyer
Longbridge BN4
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> ........ the wheels used on the Healeys (Bluemels manufactured, I
> think)........
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 20:12:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Paint Delivery and Quality
I think the Moss Healey Green spray can paint is just great. After my
engine rebuild was complete, I used it to paint the whole thing. It doesn't
need primer, and after two years and 15,000 miles it has not cracked,
peeled, chipped or otherwise shown any defects on my engine. And it
certainly was simpler to use than the non-aerosol paint, and probably
cheaper, too.
IMHO, when painting any surface with any paint, you can't have the surface
too clean. But, you can have it too dirty, and if you do you'll be
disappointed with the results and/or durability of the finish.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "John W. Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: Engine Paint Delivery and Quality
>
> Bradley:
>
> Check out Bill Hirsch at:
>
> http://www.hirschauto.com/
>
> They carry a full line of resto paints and are well known for their
quality.
> They have Healey Green, but only in non-aerosol form (other colors in
> greater demand come both ways).
>
> I have used their Black Chassis Paint (which does come in aerosol form as
> well as cans) and found it to be excellent. So much so that I abandoned
my
> plans to use the Moss Spray Cans to paint the parts as I go (and ate two
cans
> of Moss paint I already had) and am now grouping them and firing up my
detail
> spray gun. It may well not be worth it, but I want my engine to stay
Healey
> Green as long as possible.
>
> No interest commercial or otherwise, etc.etc.
>
> Cheers,
> John Cope
> 62BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 20:19:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Originality?
<<Personally, I would like to see it restored as close to original as
possible
so that we have some of the first-series BN4s to look at. >>
Ditto, Gary!!
<<The car also has disk wheels.>>
Count the number of ALL models with same. Da*n few!!
The "neat" factor of an original and correct car cannot be determined!!
Were she mine??? As close to org as could possibly be done!
Best od luck!!
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Hinsdale, IL
www.justbrits.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 21:44:37 -0400
Subject: distributor parts
Need O-ring that goes on shaft of dist , this is for XKE but is same dia
for BJ8 dist.
also there is a felt type of seal just under the clamp that secures dist
The bodies are ident. save for length. I have seen no reference to this for
the BJ8 unless I missed it.
This would probably be for the lucas dist. parts list owners as spares
manuals dont list these parts.
Any leads would be app. can match O-ring at hardware store but seal
will be tough.
Thanks
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations Inc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 18:48:23 -0700
Subject: Re:Originality
John-
First off, if your car is an early BN4, it was built at Longbridge, not
Abingdon, as the later BN4 series was.
Cars with disc wheels are relatively uncommon, but VERY much easier to live with
than with wires. Plus, the expense of converting to wires is not small. A car
with nicely finished disc wheel, in my opinion, stands out these day nicely from
the rest. Keep 'em, sez I. As for the drum front brakes, although never up to
disc performance, a properly set up drum works very nicely....quite adequate for
most conditions.
Otherwise, the early BN4's are generally considered the least desireable of the
lot, especially when measured by performance......however a reasonable upgrade
is to change the the later head/carb arrangement (and tweak the cam a bit if
you're going inside). Could be considered a "period" mod, and it transforms the
car.
Longbridge cars can be a challenge to restore, since many subtle features are
unique, such as the Trafalgar washers. (If you have a spare pump, please think
of me first!) But, if you enjoy the hunt, that makes it twice as fun, when you
finally find the rare bits!
Fred Meyer
'57 Longbridge BN4
John Peak wrote:
> Hi,
>
> This question is directed mainly to Gary Anderson, but any opinions will be
> of value.
>
> I am at the begining of a restoration of a very early Abington built BN4.
> It has many unusual but not necessarily desireable features. It came with
> the original 6 port head, but otherwise is a typical first batch BN4. It
> has the sliding top frame mount and associatiated interior details, the
> Trafalgar windshield washer with the singe nozzle, and the engine is painted
> the original Morris olive green. I have a second batch top frame, side
> curtains, and rear seatback. The car also has disk wheels.
>
> My Question is this. Are any of these original features worth preserving?
> Should I hunt down the proper first batch top frame, side curtains, and seat
> back? The single squirter seems to be difficult to find and quite expensive
> compared to the $4.95 each for the twin squirters. A proper conversion to
> wire wheels appears to entail changing the brakes as well. Should I do a
> restoration of convenience or should I attempt to preserve these unusual
> features. The car is less that pristine but quite restorable.
>
> Please advise.
>
> John
> '58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeygal at cs.com
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 22:40:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Tires for big Healey
Hello all,
Thanks for all the info and suggestions. Although everyone's responses came
to the same conclusion - new tires - I think Kent McLean's reply regarding
delaminating tires making it hard to avoid bridge abutments got the message
across loud and clear, so I plan to get a set of Dunlop SP20's, tubes and
all. In the meantime, guess I'll stop driving the 100 miles down to San
Diego at 70 mph...
Thanks all,
Sharon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 23:21:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Originality
First off, if your car is an early BN4, it was built at Longbridge, not
Abingdon, as the later BN4 series was.
I believe it was an early Abingdon built car because it had the Morris Green
engine paint. Early Abingdon cars featured the characteristics of the
Longbridge cars however the engines were painted Morris Green, a darker shade
of green than the normal.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Bridger" <RBridger01 at mediaone.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 23:39:01 -0400
Subject: Heater Hose Bracket - ???
Ryan,
The fresh air intake on the left side has a similar clamp that bolts to the
finder well just forward of the front carb.
Bob
BJ-7 & 8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 21:04:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Forwarding: Tires for Big Healey?
Sharon:
New tires will usually run smoother and balance better.
I they they are a good investment for both your driving pleasure and for safety.
Ron Rader
JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
> Healeygal,
> I had an identical situation and I advise you to replace them. When I bought
> my Healey several years ago, it had a set of Dunlop SP4 tires that looked
> O.K., maybe 70% of the tread life remaining. The tires had been on the car
> at least eight years, maybe longer. The previous owner seldom drove the car.
> Within six months (4 to 5K miles driving) two of the tires developed tread
> seperations. Fortunately, it did not cause an accident.
> I replaced them with new Dunlop SP20 165-15 tires, which are great. They
> only cost around $45 each, so running risky old tires is not worth it.
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
>
> > I have a set of Dunlop SP4 on my BN1 - they are 11 years old. For the first
> > 9 years, the car sat around a lot, 3 to 6 months at a time and longer. For
> > the last 2 years, I have been driving it regularly - they look OK - should
> > they be checked/replaced?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 02:10:10 -0400
Subject: Re: problem fitting the O/D on the gearbox. Bloody cam!
Hi Francois,
The correct procedure is well described in the factory manual.
With the overdrive on the floor and standing on the driveshaft flange
(it will have to be supported), check the alignment of the internal
splines. The lower spline can if necessary be turned on one direction
only with a long screwdriver blade. Use a dummy shaft to check the
alignment if available.
Place the 8 springs in position on the pegs (short ones nearer the
centre).
Place the gasket in position, be careful, it only goes on one way.
Place the overdrive cam in position on the overdrive (not on the shaft).
One trick here is to mark the outside of the cam with a magic marker to
aid in aligning the splines as the box is lowered.
Now lower the gearbox into the overdrive. (This requires the assistance
of a volunteer or 2 from the audience).
As the box is lowered check the the upper ends of the springs engage on
the pegs on the adapter plate and if necessary rotate the cam, again
with a long screwdriver, to align the splines.
The operation is a little difficult but becomes easier with practice.
When everything is correct you should be able to push down hard on the
gearbox and compress the springs enough for the flanges to meet.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MegCC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 10:25:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Year of 100-4
Roland and Brian
Engine # 1b/139855 on BN1-l/148956 #923 build 11/30/53.
Sorry I forgot the engine number.
Joe
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 21:51:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Unleaded heads - old vs. new engines
In general, it does seem that cars that have their old
original engines pre unleaded only days will keep
running fine as lead does build up and get into the
valve seats with age... as a result cars that have run
several thousand miles with lead should have no
problems with unleaded... unless the heads been
rebuilt? Anyone with experience here?
I rebuilt my car with hardened valves, but not seats
(in 1985)... when this was poorly understood. As a
result I have always used a lead additive w/ octane
boost - Bardahls Instead o' lead gold.
Suffice to say the octane boost in this stuff works
wonders, my BJ8 never runs on when I use it. I have
to therefore assume the lead substitute works wonders
as well...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 12:41:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Unleaded heads - old vs. new engines
Alan: When I rebuilt my BN7, 14 years ago, I didn't touch the head. Still
good now, after 25,000 miles. Head probably has 75,000 miles. I concur
that engines that were brought up on leaded, will be ok on no-lead. If you
do a valve job, however, you should use "no-lead" seats and valves.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "One.Proud.American" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 12:51 AM
Subject: Unleaded heads - old vs. new engines
>
> In general, it does seem that cars that have their old
> original engines pre unleaded only days will keep
> running fine as lead does build up and get into the
> valve seats with age... as a result cars that have run
> several thousand miles with lead should have no
> problems with unleaded... unless the heads been
> rebuilt? Anyone with experience here?
>
> I rebuilt my car with hardened valves, but not seats
> (in 1985)... when this was poorly understood. As a
> result I have always used a lead additive w/ octane
> boost - Bardahls Instead o' lead gold.
>
> Suffice to say the octane boost in this stuff works
> wonders, my BJ8 never runs on when I use it. I have
> to therefore assume the lead substitute works wonders
> as well...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 14:41:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Year of 100-4
Chassis 150202 Body 4467 1196 (why two numbers?) Engine B205103 Built
12/24/53
Mark
Nashville
BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: <MegCC@aol.com>
To: <rwil@cts.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: Year of 100-4
:
: Roland and Brian
:
: Engine # 1b/139855 on BN1-l/148956 #923 build 11/30/53.
: Sorry I forgot the engine number.
:
:
: Joe
:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 15:59:04 -0400
Subject: NO LEAD
My BJ7 has run about 80000 miles on unleaded fuel since an engine rebuild,
10 years ago. No conversions were done, and no additives are used. I always
use the highest octane fuel available, since it runs that much better on it.
The motor runs as well as ever, and has had some long hard miles put on it.
Since these are relativly slow reving engines, I don't believe a lot of
"nolead" conversion work is really necessary. JMTCW.
Cheers..........Bob.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 16:26:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Year of 100-4
In a message dated 10/13/01 12:43:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
mendicott@home.com writes:
<< Chassis 150202 Body 4467 1196 (why two numbers?) Engine B205103 Built
12/24/53 >>
Mark
The first number (4467) is the Batch Number and could include from 150 to 700
plus cars, and the second number (1196) is the actual Body Number of your
specific car, and thus unique to your car. This number (1196) should also be
on seven other locations on your car as follows:
1. The left rear side lip of your bonnet. Yours should be aluminum.
2. The front left lip of the splash pan (hard to see with bumper in place).
Also an aluminum piece.
3. The bracket on the left side of the boot lid will also have this number
on it. This is where the telescoping prop rod attaches. Once again your
boot lid should be aluminum and the bracket, if original will be different
from the bracket on the later steel boot lid cars.
4.-7. all four of the cockpit trim moldings will have the body number
stamped on the back.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 18:39:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Originality
Hi John,
I'd say go ahead and do what you like. It's your car. If you do decide to
restore the car, I'd like to see it restored exactly as it was when it rolled
off the assembly line. Since it is unique, and there aren't very many
original examples left in the world, you may want to document the unique
characteristics of the car for others to feed off of. Either way, you'll
have a fine car on your hands.
Scott Helms
One of the last Longbridge BN4's currently under construction.......
Subject: Re: Originality?
In a message dated 10/11/01 11:14:55 PM, writes:
<< I am at the begining of a restoration of a very early Abington built BN4.
It has many unusual but not necessarily desireable features. It came with
the original 6 port head, but otherwise is a typical first batch BN4. It
has the sliding top frame mount and associatiated interior details, the
Trafalgar windshield washer with the singe nozzle, and the engine is painted
the original Morris olive green. I have a second batch top frame, side
curtains, and rear seatback. The car also has disk wheels. Should I do a
restoration of convenience or should I attempt to preserve these unusual
features. The car is less that pristine but quite restorable.
Please advise.
John
'58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 18:52:27 -0400
Subject: fuel pump nightmares
If list.quest were up I wouldn't have to bother the list with this, but here
we are. I've had problems with the BJ7 starting and running consistently.
The car has maybe 1000 miles on the restoration. Yeah, I know, so what.
The solution to the problem is that I had two problems, the battery was 5
years old and was tired of the ups and downs of life. The fuel pump
responded to mechanical stimulation (tapping the mounting bracket with my 32
ounce hammer), but then died slowly, not even responding to curses designed
to reserve its place in the Inferno. In appearance, it is the AUF 301.
With some alterations. Like no ground connection other than through the
body. Where was I that day?
So, I took the fuel pump apart, only at the electrical end as I read the
manual which says to hold the part over a sheet because there are 11
bearings whose only desire is to disperse to diametrically opposed ends of
the known universe. The condenser had been replace by a solid state thing
with a number on it. The points were blackened and crater-like. I worked
them over with wet 1200 grit and prayed. I got down to shiny metal.
Putting it back together is the reverse of da da da. My reading of the
manual is that I need to have a couple of gaps of .035 and .070 inches. My
problem is that the only way I can change anything, that I can see is how
many turns I take the point assembly down on the shaft which is not numbered
in my workshop manual. I have 4 other manuals who have decided to hide
because I've ignored them for so long. What should I do? When I take it
down 6 turns, the points are closed and the springs work. If I make it less
turns, the whole lower assembly just floats. How tight should this be?
Just as a capper, I also had a flat tire on a 72 spoke Daton wheel. The car
was parked in the most inaccessible part of the garage for the purpose of
changing that tire. I got it off. I took it to the tire center that fixed
it last time. I told the mechanic that it had a tube and I wanted the tube
and valve replaced. He started the invoice pointed to my Explorer and said
did it come off that car. I told him it came off an Austin-Healey. He
said, "Woah, you'll have to spell that one for me, it ain't in our
database." He told me to come back in two hours. I came back. He said I
was right, there -was- a tube in that tire and they don't do tubes anymore.
They don't do tubes anymore.
I -am- depressed.
Bill Moyer, Chimera, wounded, but not cowed.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 19:29:02 -0400
Subject: RE: NO LEAD
One more example. I have a 1980 MGB in addition to my BJ7.
This car was delivered with a catalytic converter and,
theoretically, at least, never saw anything but unleaded gasoline.
The cylinder heads had no special inserts to protect against
valve seat resession.
Mine had 38k miles on it when I got it in 1991. It now has
about 85k and shows no sign of valve problems. (Which reminds me
that I need to do my annual compression test soon.)
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bob Yule
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 3:59 PM
To: HEALEY LIST
Subject: NO LEAD
My BJ7 has run about 80000 miles on unleaded fuel since an engine rebuild,
10 years ago. No conversions were done, and no additives are used. I always
use the highest octane fuel available, since it runs that much better on it.
The motor runs as well as ever, and has had some long hard miles put on it.
Since these are relativly slow reving engines, I don't believe a lot of
"nolead" conversion work is really necessary. JMTCW.
Cheers..........Bob.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 17:36:42 -0600
Subject: Re: fuel pump nightmares
Bill,
To set an SU pump properly you need to slowly screw the diaphragm up while
at the same time depressing its centre, i.e. pushing it up, until the points
no longer 'turn over'. If you're naturally right handed, hold the body of
the pump in your left hand and turn the diaphragm in a quater of a turn and
press it in with your right thumb while watching the points. You'll see what
I mean by 'turning over'. Keep screwing it in until the points no longer
'turn over' making sure that nothing is catching in the bottom of the body.
When the points will no longer turn over, back off the diaphragm (unscrew
it) to line up a screw hole in the diaphragm with one in the body and then
unscrew it four more holes and the job is done.
If your points are as bad as you describe may I suggest you replace them
first, and while you've got it all in pieces what shape is the diaphragm in?
Don't forget the brass washers - SU quit using them about 25 years ago and
now offers a crafty plastic gadjet that replaces them. They're used to keep
the spindle centered.
Cheers, "Bob".
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 20:02:35 -0400
Subject: RE: fuel pump nightmares
Bill,
As a minimum, you should replace the points and the diode.
As for adjustment, the BMC shop manual gives a pretty detailed
description of how to do it.
- Screw in the diaphram until the rocker will not "throw over".
- Press in on the diaphram while turning it counter clockwise
(unscrewing it) until the rocker just "throws over".
- Unscrew to the nearest place where the diaphram holes line up with
those on the coil body.
- Unscrew it 4 more holes.
- Bolt the coil body to the pump.
When performing this last step, it helps if you stretch
the diaphram a bit by placing some sort of wedge under the points
pulling them into the open position while you tighten the bolts.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of William Moyer
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 6:52 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: fuel pump nightmares
If list.quest were up I wouldn't have to bother the list with this, but here
we are. I've had problems with the BJ7 starting and running consistently.
The car has maybe 1000 miles on the restoration. Yeah, I know, so what.
The solution to the problem is that I had two problems, the battery was 5
years old and was tired of the ups and downs of life. The fuel pump
responded to mechanical stimulation (tapping the mounting bracket with my 32
ounce hammer), but then died slowly, not even responding to curses designed
to reserve its place in the Inferno. In appearance, it is the AUF 301.
With some alterations. Like no ground connection other than through the
body. Where was I that day?
So, I took the fuel pump apart, only at the electrical end as I read the
manual which says to hold the part over a sheet because there are 11
bearings whose only desire is to disperse to diametrically opposed ends of
the known universe. The condenser had been replace by a solid state thing
with a number on it. The points were blackened and crater-like. I worked
them over with wet 1200 grit and prayed. I got down to shiny metal.
Putting it back together is the reverse of da da da. My reading of the
manual is that I need to have a couple of gaps of .035 and .070 inches. My
problem is that the only way I can change anything, that I can see is how
many turns I take the point assembly down on the shaft which is not numbered
in my workshop manual. I have 4 other manuals who have decided to hide
because I've ignored them for so long. What should I do? When I take it
down 6 turns, the points are closed and the springs work. If I make it less
turns, the whole lower assembly just floats. How tight should this be?
I -am- depressed.
Bill Moyer, Chimera, wounded, but not cowed.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 17:24:46 -0700
Subject: Smitty conversion slipping clutch followup
Hello Dean,
I'm also posting this to the list for archiving & general interest:
For the benefit of the list, Dean and I had been discussing my Toyota clutch
starting to slip after about 3 months, just as Robert Barback and others
have noted, as well as your input shaft spinning in the ball bearing inner
hole instead of spinning the bearing.
Today I removed my Toyota trans. Observations:
-My clutch disc measures 0.318" thick and it slips if you give the car much
gas in any gear. No oil on plates or disc, though there is some
plate/flywheel discoloration and no scoring and the pressure plate does not
appear to be warped. Clutch takeup was reasonably even.
-My pilot shaft may have spun slightly in the Toyota ball pilot bearing
hole, but the effect is minimal--there was a slight discoloration on pilot
bearing surface of the shaft, but it wiped off with a paper towel--so it
must have been oil. I believe the ball pilot bearing was spinning because a
small amount of new-looking grease had been spun off the bearing face. I
smeared some Moly wheel bearing grease in the hole for when I reassemble it.
-Not sure what to make of the following, but the first 1/4" of the Toyota
tubular iron nosepiece around the input shaft is worn down paper thin
apparently by the inside of the clutch throwout plate rubbing it. No damage
to the input shaft itself or the T/O plate. T/O bearing inner bore
(graphite) seems to hang up slightly when sliding past the edge of this worn
down area. Think I'll take off the nosepiece and grind the thin part off and
chamfer the edge.
The Healey manual says new clutch lining material is supposed to be 0.15"
thick which would give a disc thickness of 0.35". I could find no max/min
thickness specs for the whole clutch disc.
My old Healey 10" disc is .0302" thick and I never noticed it slipping.
Lining areas: Healey 10"--40.86 sq "; Toyota 9.25"--35.25 sq". Not only is
the Toyota disc smaller, but 3/16" of its lining hangs unused inside the
pressure plate ring center hole. It also doesn't have continuous facing
material like the Healey, but is divided up into individual "puck" friction
areas separated by 1/32" grooves which further decrease the surface area.
I'm going to a custom clutch maker in Irwindale next week and see if I can
get a .35" or thicker disc and maybe one with larger diameter instead.
Will keep you and the list posted.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 21:41:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Smitty conversion slipping clutch followup
Steve,
Since I am contemplating the installation of the Toyota trans in my Healey as
part of the restoration I am interested in your experience. Thanks for
keeping us posted with updates. I don't want to have problems, that is one
reason I have considered the conversion. Have you contacted Smitty to see if
he has any ready answers?
Regards,
Dave Duffey
'59 BT 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 20:10:47 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel pump nightmares
One more wrinkle to this process I just discovered: you're supposed to remove
the contact
blade (the points on the spring steel) before performing this adjustment (it's
in the paragraph
above the numbered procedure).
Don't know if this makes much of a difference--if any at all--but the dang
things are so finicky
any little thing could make a difference.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> Bill,
>
> As a minimum, you should replace the points and the diode.
> As for adjustment, the BMC shop manual gives a pretty detailed
> description of how to do it.
>
> - Screw in the diaphram until the rocker will not "throw over".
> - Press in on the diaphram while turning it counter clockwise
> (unscrewing it) until the rocker just "throws over".
> - Unscrew to the nearest place where the diaphram holes line up with
> those on the coil body.
> - Unscrew it 4 more holes.
> - Bolt the coil body to the pump.
>
> When performing this last step, it helps if you stretch
> the diaphram a bit by placing some sort of wedge under the points
> pulling them into the open position while you tighten the bolts.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 09:26:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel
Henry,
It sounds like you may have an adjustable steering column that isn't
"adjusting", but in any event, I think you will find a split wire ring about an
1/8" below the top of the splined shaft. This must be removed from it's
indentation and then the wheel will come off. Put a screwdriver blade into the
space in the ring and just pop it out.
DickB
Henry Shervem wrote:
> I am trying to remove the steering wheel from my 55 100/4.
> The nut and washer came off easy, and the wheel slides out about
> 1/4 inch then stops hard against metal.
> I don't want to damage the wheel by force.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 08:44:29 -0700
Subject: Originality!
Hi,
Thanks to all who offered opinions on preserving the originality of my
oddball Healey. If I can locate all the missing parts unique to the early
BN4, I will remain faithful to the way it left the factory (Any help here?).
Just to clarify, it is indeed an Abingdon built car (at least per the BMIHT
cert.). Production was moved from Longbridge to Abingdon prior to
completion of the first series. This car was built in the first month of
Abingdon production.
Thanks again for your comments. As a newcommer to the list, I can see that
it will be a valuable resource during restoration and beyond.
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 13:53:54 +0100
Subject: Re: Year of 100-4
Curt
May I develop this estimate further
>The first number (4467) is the Batch Number and could include from 150 to 700
>plus cars,
I have studied information that owners have sent us.
The following is extracted from our 100 Register. I have included only
earliest and latest numbers.
Batch Body Number
4407 544
4467 663
4467 1473
4550 1594
>From this incomplete information the minimum would be 810 and the
maximum 1050. However from the above it might be reasonable to consider
#600 and #1500 as possible start and finish body numbers giving say 900
cars in this batch. Obviously more than the number you suggest.
All the best
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 09:49:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Bugeye on eBay - $1.00 Opening Bid, NO RESERVE
Hi Team,
Just a brief and shameless commercial plug for the Bugeye Sprite that I am
offering at auction on eBay. It is item number 596746727
This car is offered with an opening bid of $1.00 and NO RESERVE. If you've
ever considered adding a Bugeye to your stable, this may be the opportunity.
Thank you.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 (but soon to be 1) x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 12:58:13 -0500
Subject: Two MGs for sale
Listers,
To help out a recently widowed friend and fellow MG buddy, I am
listing these cars for sale for her. They belonged to her recently deceased
husband and my good friend.
- 73 MGB roadster. New pearl white paint, solid rocker panels and rest of
body,
mileage unknown at this time, starts very well, good top, good tires,
new carpet kit goes with the car, needs seats recovered and interior clean
up, eng. was out of car last summer but not sure what work was done, will
check on receipts if needed. $3500.00 obo
- 67 MGB-GT. Wire wheels with like new tires, car just needs some TLC,
Eng. was frozen is now freed up, Carbs are off the car and were just
cleaned up and ready for reinstall, mileage unknown, the eng. appears to
be a 1965 from the info. that I have found, floor sills need repair just
inside the rocker panels, other body panels are very good, car is a nice 10
to 20 footer as it sits now. Has not run for a few years so the rest of the
mechanics are unknown at this time. Light blue paint. $600.00 as is.
My driveway and garage is full or I would gladly purchase these cars myself.
They are both very nice cars and with a little time and patience could be
very nice drivers.
Dig. pics are available of exteriors from me, neither car has overdrive.
Please email with any questions and I will assist the best I can. The best
situation would be to personally visit the cars for detailed answers. Cars
are located in Northern Indiana.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 14:36:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Throttle Linkage repair
Hi, I have made Teflon bushings that fit where the original felt ones where.
If you are interested contact me. They do not wear out and are self
lubricating.
Cheers, Bill, Bolt-On Healeys [a name dubbed by Margot]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "norris" <f.norris at home.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 11:53:39 -0700
Subject: frame replacement
Hi everyone;
Sadly, my BJ8 frame is so bad that I may need to replace it outright rather
than graft in repair sections.What options do I have in suppliers? Moss has a
frame - where does it come from? What about British or Australian sources? A
Canadian supplier would be best of all for me (no duty payable and avoiding
exchange nosebleed). I have heard of a Jule or Yule frame from Ontario but no
other info. Cost is important, but fit and originality even more so. Any
personal recommendations (other than scrapping the car!) gratefully received.
Mark Norris
BJ8 rust factory
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 12:39:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Bugeye on eBay - $1.00 Opening Bid, NO RESERVE
On Sun, 14 Oct 2001 11:05:06 -0500, JustBrits wrote:
<< Where is car and why didn't you put proper "link" in posting, Reid?? >>
Hi Ed,
Thanks for your interest in the Bugeye that I'm offering at auction on eBay.
The car is in Portland, Oregon (says this a total of about 5-6 times beyween
the auction description and the photo page for which I supplied the URL!).
The reason that there are no "proper" links in the description is because
eBay doesn't allow them. If you try to sneak them in, they just
automatically get stripped out. For example, the first time I wrote the
item description I input this:
See <http://www.healey.org/model-bugeye.shtml> for more information about
this classic British sports car.
... and when I got to review my text before initiating the auction it came
out like this:
See for more information about this classic British sports car.
... so I re-wrote it without the < and the > and the http://, and it came
out like you see it. I do not know why eBay does not allow links within
item descriptions; you'd have to ask them. Thanks again.
Cheers,
Reid
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 18:26:42 -0500
Subject: SU HIF4 carb help
A friend's MGB's HIF4 SU carbs started overflowing gas. I'm assuming
(always a huge mistake) that the problem is with the float or a stuck
float needle on one of the carbs. Since the float bowl is integral
with the carb body, do you have to remove the carbs from the car to
diagnose the problem and clean, repair, and replace? Could something
else cause this problem? FYI the fuel pump keeps running when the
ignition is on, but the engine is not running.
If you don't think your answer would be of interest to the entire
list, feel free to contact me directly.
Thanks,
Herman
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Doug Ingram" <dougi at home.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 16:31:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Originality?
Hi John:
No question, my vote goes to maintaining the unique features - these make it
a *very* special car.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
1958 Sprite (AN5L/636)
1963 Sprite Mk II project (HAN7L/30003)
1987 Jaguar XJ6 VDP
and looking for just the right BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: John Peak <johnepeak@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 11:12 PM
Subject: Originality?
>
> Hi,
>
> This question is directed mainly to Gary Anderson, but any opinions will
be
> of value.
>
> I am at the begining of a restoration of a very early Abington built BN4.
> It has many unusual but not necessarily desireable features. It came with
> the original 6 port head, but otherwise is a typical first batch BN4. It
> has the sliding top frame mount and associatiated interior details, the
> Trafalgar windshield washer with the singe nozzle, and the engine is
painted
> the original Morris olive green. I have a second batch top frame, side
> curtains, and rear seatback. The car also has disk wheels.
>
> My Question is this. Are any of these original features worth preserving?
> Should I hunt down the proper first batch top frame, side curtains, and
seat
> back? The single squirter seems to be difficult to find and quite
expensive
> compared to the $4.95 each for the twin squirters. A proper conversion to
> wire wheels appears to entail changing the brakes as well. Should I do a
> restoration of convenience or should I attempt to preserve these unusual
> features. The car is less that pristine but quite restorable.
>
> Please advise.
>
> John
> '58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 16:37:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Bugeye on eBay - $1.00 Opening Bid, NO RESERVE
You can use HTML in ebay descriptions, it even says so in the entry form.
But your link should have read <a
href="http://www.healey.org/model-bugeye.shtml";>link words</a>
bk
-----------------------------
At 12:39 PM 10/14/2001, you wrote:
>On Sun, 14 Oct 2001 11:05:06 -0500, JustBrits wrote:
>
><< Where is car and why didn't you put proper "link" in posting, Reid?? >>
>
>Hi Ed,
>
>Thanks for your interest in the Bugeye that I'm offering at auction on eBay.
>The car is in Portland, Oregon (says this a total of about 5-6 times beyween
>the auction description and the photo page for which I supplied the URL!).
>
>The reason that there are no "proper" links in the description is because
>eBay doesn't allow them. If you try to sneak them in, they just
>automatically get stripped out. For example, the first time I wrote the
>item description I input this:
>
>See <http://www.healey.org/model-bugeye.shtml> for more information about
>this classic British sports car.
>
>... and when I got to review my text before initiating the auction it came
>out like this:
>
>See for more information about this classic British sports car.
>
>... so I re-wrote it without the < and the > and the http://, and it came
>out like you see it. I do not know why eBay does not allow links within
>item descriptions; you'd have to ask them. Thanks again.
>
>Cheers,
>Reid
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 19:44:48 -0400
Subject: Frame work
Hello Everyone,
I'm getting started on the frame work on my '60 BT7 and could use some help.
I have the fairly common SETIA model (Somebody Else Took It Apart) so there
are going to be many details of which I have no knowledge since I have never
seen them. Any help is greatly appreciated.
1. Does anyone have a good picture of the way the rocker meets the hinge
pillar?
2. I notice that the floors are spot welded to the frame and outriggers.
There would have to be some sort of sealing material between these welds to
keep out the water. On my car in several places, it appears that there is
some sort of caulking, epoxy or or other filler. What is this stuff, where
do I get it, and how is it applied?
3. Where is a good place to get some body panel material like 18Ga to use
for patches? Do I go to a junkyard and buy a hood from and old Caddy or
what?
Thanks,
Heard
'60 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 19:01:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Bugeye on eBay - $1.00 Opening Bid, NO RESERVE
Bill Katz wrote and I quote:
<<"But your link should have read <a
href="http://www.healey.org/model-bugeye.shtml";>link words</a>">>
Sorry Bill AND Reid!!
A "HiLite" (while on THE page) of "address", Copy and then PASTE (in new
e-mail) results in:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596746727&;
r=0&t=0
Which becomes a NO BRAINER (Col.) <G><G>!!
NEXT question???
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 18:23:37 -0700
Subject: 82 Healey pictures online!
As webmaster of the Austin-Healey Club USA [http://healey.org/], one part of
the website that I really enjoy maintaining and adding to is the Members'
Cars Album. So many members of the AHCUSA have sent in pictures of their
Healeys that we now have 82 pictures online.
Visit http://healey.org/healey-gallery.shtml to see a gallery of Healey
images. Click on those that interest you to see a larger picture and brief
text accompanying the image [javascript required].
If you want to select a certain year or series of Healeys, use
http://www.healey.org/member-cars.shtml.
Are you a member of the AHCUSA and want your Healey seen and admired by
countless others? See the "Submit your photo and information" paragraph on
the members-cars page.
Not a member yet? Visit http://healey.org/join.shtml first ;) and then
submit your photo...
Brad Weldon
Webmaster, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://healey.org/
BN1 [226796]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 22:00:57 -0500
Subject: Gear Questions
Listers,
I have both a BN2 and a BN4 Healey transmission that I am attempting to
make one complete unit. My questions are as follows:
- 2nd,and 3rd gears and the input shaft look good and feel good but I
noticed some wear on the very small teeth on each of these. Not all the
way around but in various areas.
They appear to be more squared off than the rest. Will this cause a
major problem in
shifting or excess noise when in use. Are they usable as is.
- A couple of teeth on the 1st gear are a little burred or slightly out
of shape
compared to the rest. And also there is a slight gouge or pit on the
1st gear lead hub
area. Can these areas be lightly filed to bring them back closer to original
or will that ruin
the hardening on the surface.
- Does anyone have a useable laygear or better gears than I mentioned
above that they
would want to part with. I have accumulated a couple of overdrive
units and other
excess trany parts if someone cares to barter or cash would be an
option too.
- I could send pictures if that would help explain the gear conditions.
Thanks for any help or your ideas, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 08:34:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel
Hi Henry,
I suspect the 1/4" of movement that you are feeling is end play in the
steering box and that the wheel is still firmly seated on the tapered
spline.
The easiest way to release the taper is to re install the nut and run it
down until it is flush with the top of the shaft.
Pull the wheel up as you hit the top of the shaft (and nut) with a
hammer using a large soft drift. You should not have to hit it too hard.
Leaving the nut on will both protect the threads and avoid the loss of
teeth when the wheel comes loose.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 09:24:26 -0500
Subject: RE: New electrical problem
Adnan,
Although I agree the oil pressure gauge and the electrical system
have nothing in common, I wouldn't jump to conclusions that there is a
mechanical/hydraulic problem either... I notice in my car that the engine
runs for a few seconds before the oil gauge actually registers anything at
all. From what I understand this is common among the cars...
Steve
61 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Merchant, Adnan [mailto:Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com]
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2001 11:56 AM
To: 'Dwight Patten'; 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: New electrical problem
>>Dwight,
>>The electrical system and the oil pressure gauge have nothing in common
(the
>>temperature side does). If you cranked the engine over and did not get
oil
>>pressure, then there's a mechanical/hydraulic problem.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 10:36:42 -0400
Subject: RE: Gear Questions
Mark:
My experience has been that the only sure way to know the
condition of the gears is to put the box in a car and drive it.
That said, here are a few tips on how to judge the appearance
of the gears:
On first and reverse make sure that the edges of the teeth are
parallel to each other ( holding the gear with the shaft parallel
to the ground and looking toward the centerline of the shaft.
If the profile when looking from this angle is wedge shaped, the
box will tend to jump out of gear.
On 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears, look at the shape of the thin gears
which engage the sliding hubs. Look also at the splines on the
sliding hubs which engage these gears. The thin gears should have
a profile (again, looking toward the centerline of the shaft which
looks like a house with a pitched roof:
/\
/ \
| |
| |
If the profile looks lopsided or has the corners rounded off, you may
have trouble with jumping out of gear.
Sources of gears:
I was able to get some NOS gears for my gearbox from Sports and Classics
(203-655-8731 - I have no connection with these guys, just an occasional
customer).
SC Parts and AH Spares advertise that they will rebuild your laygear by
welding on a new first gear. I have heard mixed reviews for this solution
on this list. I was lucky enough to find an NOS laygear several years ago.
Good luck.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Mark and kathy
LaPierre
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 11:01 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Gear Questions
Listers,
I have both a BN2 and a BN4 Healey transmission that I am attempting to
make one complete unit. My questions are as follows:
- 2nd,and 3rd gears and the input shaft look good and feel good but I
noticed some wear on the very small teeth on each of these. Not all the
way around but in various areas.
They appear to be more squared off than the rest. Will this cause a
major problem in
shifting or excess noise when in use. Are they usable as is.
- A couple of teeth on the 1st gear are a little burred or slightly out
of shape
compared to the rest. And also there is a slight gouge or pit on the
1st gear lead hub
area. Can these areas be lightly filed to bring them back closer to original
or will that ruin
the hardening on the surface.
- Does anyone have a useable laygear or better gears than I mentioned
above that they
would want to part with. I have accumulated a couple of overdrive
units and other
excess trany parts if someone cares to barter or cash would be an
option too.
- I could send pictures if that would help explain the gear conditions.
Thanks for any help or your ideas, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 10:56:31 -0400
Subject: Dwelling on Dwell
Resending... sorry if it's a dup....
Well I just got back from a great week of golf in central Pennsylvania. I
wish I could have taken the Healey, but my fiancie needs to take half of her
wardrobe, so the RAM had to go instead... ;-) The roads around Pine Grove
Furnace are perfect for motoring and the trees were just beginning to
change, what a beautiful time of the year...
If you remember, I've had a problem with a slight miss around 3500
RPM, which would get progressively worse as I climbed through the higher
RPM's. Well, before I left for vacation I followed the dwell thread and
decided to check it, to see how it was set. I've tried just about
everything else from new cap, wires, points and condenser. The points were
set at 15, and the timing was set properly but I still had the miss. Very
frustrating... I hooked up the dwell meter and it read around 32 degrees.. I
reset the points, mistakenly to 18 and noticed the dwell dropped to 30
degrees. I didn't realize that the further the points are set out the
lower the dwell goes. I than reset the points to 13, and the dwell went up
to 35. I left it there, double checked my timing, and took her out for a
spin.... guess what?? the miss is gone and she is running like a champ...
Thanks to the list for all the help on the dwell subject. I can't wait to
get home and drive her some more... the car not my fiancie... ;-)
Steve
61 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 09:51:40 -0600
Subject: RE: New electrical problem
Hi,
I am working off a data point of exactly one, so I may have generalized more
than I ought to. On my BJ8, I saw pressure while cranking, it was that
quick to respond. If there is a delay, might it imply that there is air in
the line or some other restriction somewhere?
Since it was not mentioned how long the engine was being cranked without
pressure, my automatic reaction would be to check the oil system
immediately. That may be a very conservative approach, but the
consequences could be awful.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Kocik, Stephen W [mailto:Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com]
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 7:24 AM
To: Merchant, Adnan; 'Dwight Patten'; 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: New electrical problem
Adnan,
Although I agree the oil pressure gauge and the electrical system
have nothing in common, I wouldn't jump to conclusions that there is a
mechanical/hydraulic problem either... I notice in my car that the engine
runs for a few seconds before the oil gauge actually registers anything at
all. From what I understand this is common among the cars...
Steve
61 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Merchant, Adnan [mailto:Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com]
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2001 11:56 AM
To: 'Dwight Patten'; 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: New electrical problem
>>Dwight,
>>The electrical system and the oil pressure gauge have nothing in common
(the
>>temperature side does). If you cranked the engine over and did not get
oil
>>pressure, then there's a mechanical/hydraulic problem.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 12:16:21 -0400
Subject: Re:Joe Curto
Does anyone have Joe Curto's phone number? Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 12:23:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Dwelling on Dwell
Now let me get this straight.
You have a "persistent miss" as a fiancie or, a "persistent miss" and a
fiancie?
I think this should be cleared up right now!!
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 12:30:01 -0400
Subject: Re: New electrical problem
"Merchant, Adnan" wrote:
If there is a delay, might it imply that there is air in the line or some other
restriction somewhere?
>
Hi Adnan,
There is a restrictor at the block on the oil pressure line. If the line is full
of air the pressure takes some time to build on the gauge, particularly when
cold, because sufficient oil has to pass through the restrictor to compress the
air in the line to the indicated pressure.
If the line is bled at the gauge, to remove all the air, the pressure reading
should be almost instantaneous because, of course, oil is not very
compressible..
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 12:31:28 -0400
Subject: Re:Fuel Problem?
A friend with an early BN4 has following problem. The car will start
and drive for a few miles before quiting. It can be restarted after a
period of time with the same results. Disconnected the front fuel line
and verified that pump was working. Cleaned out some debris from float
bowls and filters. This car has been driven many miles over the last year
with no prior symptoms. After it quits the engine will turn over with no
problem, but not start. Any ideas? Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:22:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Re:Joe Curto
It is:
718-762-SUSU (7878)
Fax 718-762-6287
Web www.jocurtoinc.com
Adfdress
22-09 126 Street
College Point, NY 11356
(Note: due to the peculiar system in the borough of Queens, NY, the dash in
the address is necessary)
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 12:16 PM
Subject: Re:Joe Curto
>
> Does anyone have Joe Curto's phone number? Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 10:52:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Re:Fuel Problem?
I had a similar problem on my TR3A and it was junk in the fuel tank that was
plugging the line. If your filters and the bowl have lots of stuff, I would
flush the tank. The problem was always more noticeable when the fuel level
was low. I finally flushed out some stuff that looked like silicone
caulking. When the fuel was low, it was sucked into the outlet and after
you wait, it floats away. Haven't had a problem since.
Jerry
>
> A friend with an early BN4 has following problem. The car will start
> and drive for a few miles before quiting. It can be restarted after a
> period of time with the same results. Disconnected the front fuel line
> and verified that pump was working. Cleaned out some debris from float
> bowls and filters. This car has been driven many miles over the last year
> with no prior symptoms. After it quits the engine will turn over with no
> problem, but not start. Any ideas? Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 14:27:27 -0400
Subject: Fw: Re:Joe Curto
Sorry the URL for Joe Curto is
www.joecurtoinc.com
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Sims" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: Re:Joe Curto
>
> It is:
>
> 718-762-SUSU (7878)
>
> Fax 718-762-6287
>
> Web www.jocurtoinc.com
>
> Adfdress
>
> 22-09 126 Street
> College Point, NY 11356
>
> (Note: due to the peculiar system in the borough of Queens, NY, the dash
in
> the address is necessary)
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Clayton La Baw <clabaw at jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:17:26 -0700
Subject: Re:Fuel Problem?
Doug -
He should a) flush the fuel tank, and b) ream the fuel line with a frayed
choke cable wire in a drill motor (mini-roto-rooter).
Clay L.
At 12:31 PM 10/15/01 -0400, Douglas W. Flagg wrote:
>A friend with an early BN4 has following problem. The car will start
>and drive for a few miles before quiting. It can be restarted after a
>period of time with the same results. Disconnected the front fuel line
>and verified that pump was working. Cleaned out some debris from float
>bowls and filters. This car has been driven many miles over the last year
>with no prior symptoms. After it quits the engine will turn over with no
>problem, but not start. Any ideas? Thanks.
>
>Happy Healeying,
>
>Doug
>
>________________________________________________________________
>GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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DISCLAIMER: JPL now requires notice in all electronic communication that
all personal and professional opinions presented herein are my own and do
not, in any way, represent the opinion or policy of JPL.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 14:02:49 -0600
Subject: Derrington Steering wheel
I purchased a Derrington reproduction wheel from the fellow on Ebay
about a month ago. It is a beautiful MotoLita steering wheel but I
cannot get the adapter to fit on the steering shaft. Does anyone have a
suggestion (other than the fact that I should have bought a wheel from a
reputable dealer) on how to make the adapter fit. It is very close but
I don't want to force it on and not be able to ever remove it or damage
it in the process. Before I purchased the wheel , I asked if the
adapter would fit a Healey 100-4 and was assured by this fellow that it
would. Now that I have a question, he won't return my email. Are the
100-4 and later steering shafts close in size?
Any suggestions are appreciated.( remember (Ed at Just Brits) I already
know my mistake was in purchasing from this fellow)
Ward Stebner
1956 BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Clayton La Baw <clabaw at jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:38:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Sprite books
Greg -
Contact http://reality.sgi.com/ahsdc
regards,
Clay L.
'67 Sprite
At 09:41 AM 10/13/01 +1000, Greg Bankin wrote:
>My nephew (inspired by his uncle?) has just purchased a Sprite Mk II and is
>looking for appropriate books on Sprites. Any ideas?
>
>
>Greg Bankin
>gregbankin@primus.com.au
>Sunshine Coast
>Queensland
>Australia
>
>'58 BN4
DISCLAIMER: JPL now requires notice in all electronic communication that
all personal and professional opinions presented herein are my own and do
not, in any way, represent the opinion or policy of JPL.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 17:37:37 -0400
Subject: Part Needed
Anyone out there have a very good right brake light lense (red) for a BJ8?
Mine is cracked badly.
TIA Tom
tfelts@prodigy.net
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Clayton La Baw <clabaw at jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 14:23:16 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel pump nightmares
Bill -
FWIW, I bought a balancer and some tire irons; learned to do it all
myself. Classic tire people will give needed advice. I feel liberated,
just to not have to explain to some teenager how It "used to was " with cars.
regards,
Clay L.
'67 Sprite
At 06:52 PM 10/13/01 -0400, William Moyer wrote:
>If list.quest were up I wouldn't have to bother the list with this, but here
>we are. I've had problems with the BJ7 starting and running consistently.
>The car has maybe 1000 miles on the restoration. Yeah, I know, so what.
>
>The solution to the problem is that I had two problems, the battery was 5
>years old and was tired of the ups and downs of life. The fuel pump
>responded to mechanical stimulation (tapping the mounting bracket with my 32
>ounce hammer), but then died slowly, not even responding to curses designed
>to reserve its place in the Inferno. In appearance, it is the AUF 301.
>With some alterations. Like no ground connection other than through the
>body. Where was I that day?
>
>So, I took the fuel pump apart, only at the electrical end as I read the
>manual which says to hold the part over a sheet because there are 11
>bearings whose only desire is to disperse to diametrically opposed ends of
>the known universe. The condenser had been replace by a solid state thing
>with a number on it. The points were blackened and crater-like. I worked
>them over with wet 1200 grit and prayed. I got down to shiny metal.
>Putting it back together is the reverse of da da da. My reading of the
>manual is that I need to have a couple of gaps of .035 and .070 inches. My
>problem is that the only way I can change anything, that I can see is how
>many turns I take the point assembly down on the shaft which is not numbered
>in my workshop manual. I have 4 other manuals who have decided to hide
>because I've ignored them for so long. What should I do? When I take it
>down 6 turns, the points are closed and the springs work. If I make it less
>turns, the whole lower assembly just floats. How tight should this be?
>
>Just as a capper, I also had a flat tire on a 72 spoke Daton wheel. The car
>was parked in the most inaccessible part of the garage for the purpose of
>changing that tire. I got it off. I took it to the tire center that fixed
>it last time. I told the mechanic that it had a tube and I wanted the tube
>and valve replaced. He started the invoice pointed to my Explorer and said
>did it come off that car. I told him it came off an Austin-Healey. He
>said, "Woah, you'll have to spell that one for me, it ain't in our
>database." He told me to come back in two hours. I came back. He said I
>was right, there -was- a tube in that tire and they don't do tubes anymore.
>They don't do tubes anymore.
>
>I -am- depressed.
>
>Bill Moyer, Chimera, wounded, but not cowed.
DISCLAIMER: JPL now requires notice in all electronic communication that
all personal and professional opinions presented herein are my own and do
not, in any way, represent the opinion or policy of JPL.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 17:34:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Derrington Steering wheel
Hi Ward,
The splines on all models of adjustable Healey wheels are the same.
Obviously the non adjustable type is entirely different.
I find it amusing that between the 3 makes of vehicle that we service,
Austin Healey, MG and Triumph there are 28 different steering wheel
hubs.
There are 6 for MGBs alone and they do not have adjustable steering
wheels!!
May have to lash out and buy the correct one ...... however be careful
the wheel will fit the hub. There are several different configurations
for that as well.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 17:34:35 -0400
Subject: Re: frame replacement
> Hi everyone;
> Sadly, my BJ8 frame is so bad that I may need to replace it outright
rather
> than graft in repair sections.What options do I have in suppliers? Moss
has a
> frame - where does it come from? What about British or Australian sources?
A
> Canadian supplier would be best of all for me (no duty payable and
avoiding
> exchange nosebleed). I have heard of a Jule or Yule frame from Ontario
but no
> other info. Cost is important, but fit and originality even more so. Any
> personal recommendations (other than scrapping the car!) gratefully
received.
> Mark Norris
> BJ8 rust factory
If originality is of importance, and I'm glad to see that it is, I highly
recommend a frame and any other inner metal you may need be purchased from
Kilmartin Sheetmetal of Australia. I understand that they fabricate all the
pieces (excellent quality) and have the frame assembly put together by Steve
Pike's firm which is very close by to them. I haven't seen the BJ8 one but
have dealt with them for BN1 and BN2 frames. You will be pleasantly
surprised by the price.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 16:59:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Derrington Steering wheel
ward,
there are two different adapters -- one for adjustable steering and the other
for non-adjustable. you probably received an adjustable adapter when you
needed non-adjustable,.
happy healeying,
jerry
Ward Stebner wrote:
>
>
> I purchased a Derrington reproduction wheel from the fellow on Ebay
> about a month ago. It is a beautiful MotoLita steering wheel but I
> cannot get the adapter to fit on the steering shaft. Does anyone have a
> suggestion (other than the fact that I should have bought a wheel from a
> reputable dealer) on how to make the adapter fit. It is very close but
> I don't want to force it on and not be able to ever remove it or damage
> it in the process. Before I purchased the wheel , I asked if the
> adapter would fit a Healey 100-4 and was assured by this fellow that it
> would. Now that I have a question, he won't return my email. Are the
> 100-4 and later steering shafts close in size?
> Any suggestions are appreciated.( remember (Ed at Just Brits) I already
> know my mistake was in purchasing from this fellow)
> Ward Stebner
> 1956 BN2
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 18:39:09 -0400
Subject: Liberated....Tire mounting and Wheel Balance
I like to be self sufficient also, especially when it comes to my Healeys.
I bought a tire changer from Northern Tool...Not as good as the professional
ones, but it works, and I'M IN CONTROL. Also, I mounted a spare front
spindle and hub (replaced the grease with very light oil) to my engine
stand, and now I balance my own wire wheels. Also balance brake drums on
the same rig. Now I have three Healeys with no shimmy. IN CONTROL!
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clayton La Baw" <clabaw@jpl.nasa.gov>
To: "William Moyer" <William.Moyer@millersville.edu>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: fuel pump nightmares
>
> Bill -
>
> FWIW, I bought a balancer and some tire irons; learned to do it all
> myself. Classic tire people will give needed advice. I feel liberated,
> just to not have to explain to some teenager how It "used to was " with
cars.
>
> regards,
>
> Clay L.
> '67 Sprite
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 08:39:39 +1000
Subject: Re: Sprite books
> Contact http://reality.sgi.com/ahsdc
>
Unfortunately SGI has closed down its employee web server (reality.sgi.com) and
the
Austin Healey Sprite Drivers Club is therefore in the process of relocating its
web site.
It should be sorted out soon. A notice will be posted when I have some more
news...
In the meantime, questions about the club or the website can be directed to me
at either
mg@sgi.com or this address mikeg@vicnet.net.au
Now as for the question, what sort of books are you after - restoration,
history, improvements,
competition? I'd give different answers depending on what your interest are...
cheers, Mike
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Clayton La Baw <clabaw at jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 16:07:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Sprite books
Listers -
Get a catalog from any of the usual suspects: Moss Motors, Mini Mania,
Victoria British. They all carry the necessary books. Then go to your
best local source or perhaps Classic Motorbooks <www.motorbooks.com>.
Here is a good Oz book source:
http://www.marque.com.au/restor.htm
regards,
Clay L.
'67 Sprite
At 08:39 AM 10/16/01 +1000, Mike & Kerry Gigante wrote:
> >
> > Contact http://reality.sgi.com/ahsdc
> >
>
>Unfortunately SGI has closed down its employee web server
>(reality.sgi.com) and the
>Austin Healey Sprite Drivers Club is therefore in the process of
>relocating its web site.
>It should be sorted out soon. A notice will be posted when I have some
>more news...
>
>In the meantime, questions about the club or the website can be directed
>to me at either
>mg@sgi.com or this address mikeg@vicnet.net.au
>
>Now as for the question, what sort of books are you after - restoration,
>history, improvements,
>competition? I'd give different answers depending on what your interest are...
>
>cheers, Mike
DISCLAIMER: JPL now requires notice in all electronic communication that
all personal and professional opinions presented herein are my own and do
not, in any way, represent the opinion or policy of JPL.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 09:34:02 +1000
Subject: Re: Sprite books
Well, they certainly carry many of the books, but not all.
If it is tuning, maint. and performance books you are after, they probably have
all you need.
There are a number of specialist motoring bookshops. One online store I have
used a lot is
www.pitstop.net.au
Depending on where in Australia Greg lives, I may be able to give additional
pointers to local
physical storefronts.
I haven't used marque.com.au before - thanks for the pointer Clay, I'll check
them out...
If you have any more questions, or seek an opinion on a particular book, I have
most of them!!
Ray English has an amazing list of publications involving Sprites. He has
published the list in
parts in his quarterly newsletter "Marque One". I can heartily recommend the
newsletter to any
Sprite enthusiast. You can look at an old issue at
http://home.vicnet.net.au/~mikeg/marqueone/
(the subscription rates may have changed since then...)
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clayton La Baw" <clabaw@jpl.nasa.gov>
To: "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; "Clayton La Baw"
<clabaw@jpl.nasa.gov>; "Greg
Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: Sprite books
> Listers -
>
> Get a catalog from any of the usual suspects: Moss Motors, Mini Mania,
> Victoria British. They all carry the necessary books. Then go to your
> best local source or perhaps Classic Motorbooks <www.motorbooks.com>.
>
> Here is a good Oz book source:
>
> http://www.marque.com.au/restor.htm
>
> regards,
>
> Clay L.
> '67 Sprite
>
>
>
> At 08:39 AM 10/16/01 +1000, Mike & Kerry Gigante wrote:
>
> > >
> > > Contact http://reality.sgi.com/ahsdc
> > >
> >
> >Unfortunately SGI has closed down its employee web server
> >(reality.sgi.com) and the
> >Austin Healey Sprite Drivers Club is therefore in the process of
> >relocating its web site.
> >It should be sorted out soon. A notice will be posted when I have some
> >more news...
> >
> >In the meantime, questions about the club or the website can be directed
> >to me at either
> >mg@sgi.com or this address mikeg@vicnet.net.au
> >
> >Now as for the question, what sort of books are you after - restoration,
> >history, improvements,
> >competition? I'd give different answers depending on what your interest
>are...
> >
> >cheers, Mike
>
> DISCLAIMER: JPL now requires notice in all electronic communication that
> all personal and professional opinions presented herein are my own and do
> not, in any way, represent the opinion or policy of JPL.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Clayton La Baw <clabaw at jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 17:09:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Sprite books
Mike, et al -
Don't forget http://www.addall.com/, the book search and price comparison site.
regards,
Clay L.
'67 Sprite
At 09:34 AM 10/16/01 +1000, Mike & Kerry Gigante wrote:
>Well, they certainly carry many of the books, but not all.
>
>If it is tuning, maint. and performance books you are after, they probably
>have all you need.
>
>There are a number of specialist motoring bookshops. One online store I
>have used a lot is
>
>www.pitstop.net.au
>
>Depending on where in Australia Greg lives, I may be able to give
>additional pointers to local
>physical storefronts.
>
>I haven't used marque.com.au before - thanks for the pointer Clay, I'll
>check them out...
>
>If you have any more questions, or seek an opinion on a particular book, I
>have most of them!!
>
>Ray English has an amazing list of publications involving Sprites. He has
>published the list in
>parts in his quarterly newsletter "Marque One". I can heartily recommend
>the newsletter to any
>Sprite enthusiast. You can look at an old issue at
>http://home.vicnet.net.au/~mikeg/marqueone/
>(the subscription rates may have changed since then...)
>
>Mike
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Clayton La Baw" <clabaw@jpl.nasa.gov>
>To: "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; "Clayton La Baw"
><clabaw@jpl.nasa.gov>; "Greg
>Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 9:07 AM
>Subject: Re: Sprite books
>
>
> > Listers -
> >
> > Get a catalog from any of the usual suspects: Moss Motors, Mini Mania,
> > Victoria British. They all carry the necessary books. Then go to your
> > best local source or perhaps Classic Motorbooks <www.motorbooks.com>.
> >
> > Here is a good Oz book source:
> >
> > http://www.marque.com.au/restor.htm
> >
> > regards,
> >
> > Clay L.
> > '67 Sprite
> >
> >
> >
> > At 08:39 AM 10/16/01 +1000, Mike & Kerry Gigante wrote:
> >
> > > >
> > > > Contact http://reality.sgi.com/ahsdc
> > > >
> > >
> > >Unfortunately SGI has closed down its employee web server
> > >(reality.sgi.com) and the
> > >Austin Healey Sprite Drivers Club is therefore in the process of
> > >relocating its web site.
> > >It should be sorted out soon. A notice will be posted when I have some
> > >more news...
> > >
> > >In the meantime, questions about the club or the website can be directed
> > >to me at either
> > >mg@sgi.com or this address mikeg@vicnet.net.au
> > >
> > >Now as for the question, what sort of books are you after - restoration,
> > >history, improvements,
> > >competition? I'd give different answers depending on what your
> interest are...
> > >
> > >cheers, Mike
DISCLAIMER: JPL now requires notice in all electronic communication that
all personal and professional opinions presented herein are my own and do
not, in any way, represent the opinion or policy of JPL.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 22:19:35 EDT
Subject: Disconcerting steering problem on my 100-4
Folks,
The steering on my 100 has always been silky smooth and light, until
recently. I have noticed that once I make a sharp right or left (usually from
a intersection) when I am back up to speed the steering becomes stiff. It is
alittle disconcerting when driving country back roads to find it unusually
difficult to steer through the corner. I have topped off the steering box and
lubed the front end. Any suggestions?
Jim L.
56 BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 19:20:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Moss Catalog
Agreed. I would really like that.
John
'62 BT7
At 07:46 PM 10/11/01 -0700, John Snyder wrote:
>There was a thread a few months ago about how we might/would pay more if we
>knew we were getting good quality parts. Why does Moss show the source for
>Jag parts, and not for A-H parts?
>
>Is anyone from Moss monitoring this List? Jonathan Lane, Where are you?
>
>John Snyder
>'60 BT7
>'61 BN7 MK2 (times 2)
>'62 BT7 MK2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 21:47:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Disconcerting steering problem on my 100-4
what about the idler box ?
JXLmail@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
>
> The steering on my 100 has always been silky smooth and light, until
> recently. I have noticed that once I make a sharp right or left (usually from
> a intersection) when I am back up to speed the steering becomes stiff. It is
> alittle disconcerting when driving country back roads to find it unusually
> difficult to steer through the corner. I have topped off the steering box and
> lubed the front end. Any suggestions?
>
> Jim L.
> 56 BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 23:23:57 EDT
Subject: Oregon Big Healey Racer
Hi Oregon Vintage Racers,
A few years ago I took several pictures at a NVRG vintage race at the
Portland International Raceway. One of the pictures is of a red Big Healey
No. 98 with a black rollbar that slid off the track onto the grass several
times at the same corner. The car looks to be a BJ7 or Phase I BJ8.
Can anyone tell me who's car this is, or point me to someone who may be able
to help. Thanks.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 21:10:13 -0700
Subject: Lucas Generator ID?
Dear Listers-
I have an old Lucas dynamo, that I thought came from a BN1 or BN2.
However, checking it's part number against the Moss catalog, it doesn't
match.
Also, the date of manufacture, 2/51, is too early for a Healey 100.
Part number is 22429H.
Does anyone have info on the correct application for this dynamo?
Many thanks-
Fred Meyer
Longbridge BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 00:22:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Lucas Generator ID? x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
In a message dated 10/15/01 9:10:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
kerowako@home.com writes:
<< Also, the date of manufacture, 2/51, is too early for a Healey 100.
Part number is 22429H.
Does anyone have info on the correct application for this dynamo?
>>
Fred
That generator was used on Jaguars, specifically the 1950-51, 2 1/2 litre
and the 1950-52, 3 1/2 litre Mk. V and Mk. VII.
This information is referenced from a Lucas series 400 Master Parts Catelog.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 08:31:48 +0100
Subject: Re: Disconcerting steering problem on my 100-4
Jim
There could be may reasons for this problem but one I would suggest is
that rotten rubber has got onto the gear surfaces. In order to stop the
stator tube rattling a couple of rubber sleeves were fitted about 2 foot
apart. This is in addition to the metal "magic lantern" at the top.
These rubber sleeves often rot and work their way down into the "works".
Just one possibility.
Incidentally when reassembling, these sleeves are best not replaced.
Just the hint of a bow on the stator tube is enough to stop a rattle. It
is a good idea to rub a little oil on the stator tube as it is inserted.
All the best
>
>The steering on my 100 has always been silky smooth and light, until
>recently. I have noticed that once I make a sharp right or left (usually from
>a intersection) when I am back up to speed the steering becomes stiff. It is
>alittle disconcerting when driving country back roads to find it unusually
>difficult to steer through the corner. I have topped off the steering box and
>lubed the front end. Any suggestions?
>
>Jim L.
>56 BN2
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 08:20:30 EDT
Subject: winterizing car
If a car is going to be stored over the winter in an unheated area subject to
occasional freezing temperatures is it best to drain down the cooling system
entirely or fill it up with antifreeze? Other than the usual waxing, engine &
tanny oilchange and fuel stabilization and wheel and battery removal are
there any other suggestions?
Michael Oritt--100 Le Mans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 08:52:20 EDT
Subject: LBC museum exhibit
Hi Listers:
Anyone traveling through Nebraska on I-80 might want to plan a stop at the
Strategic Air and Space Museum at exit 426 between Omaha and Lincoln.
Members of the Flatwater Austin Healey Club have some of our cars on display
in the museum. (around 20 or so) It seems that Gen Curtis Lemay used to
hold races at Offutt Air Force Base in Bellevue, so the museum thought it
would be cool to exhibit the types of cars that might have participated. He
owned and raced an Allard. When I took my car out it looked like a nice mix
of cars, plus the rest of the museum is quite fastinating.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye (deerhunter)
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 09:09:25 -0400
Subject: Re: winterizing car
Hi Michael,
A few winterizing tips.
50/50 antifreeze & water mix
Fresh brake fluid if it hasn't been changed in the last 36 months
Almost full fuel tank, stabilizer only necessary if you are storing for
more than one year
Remove the battery and store indoors, not on a concrete floor, and
trickle charge occasionally.
Fresh engine oil & filter and grease job.
After it is fully warmed up drive the car onto a sheet of polythene
vapour barrier
Don't start the car during the winter, it only adds water to the oil and
exhaust system.
Leave the hand brake off
Take out the seat cushions and store them inside.
Operate the brake pedal once or twice every 2 -4 weeks, clutch as well
if hydraulic
Pushing the car back or forward a few inches every few days may avoid
tire flat spotting but I never bother (no room).
I have an article from Popular Mechanics which gives enough storage
instructions to keep you busy for a week but I have found that the above
has worked for me.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 09:37:58 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Frame Replacement
Mark Norris, if you're out there, please email me off the list. I'd like to
pass on my personal experience and my highest praise and recommendation of
the Jule chassis.
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 13:44:14 -0400
Subject: Re:100-4 Stuff
Hi,
I have available a set of the 100-4 tool kit box spanners, made in
England to original OEM specs for the British Tool Company. Also, have
some NOS Lucas side lamp assemblies for the 100-4. If interested please
contact me off the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 13:36:11 -0500
Subject: No LBC... but funny..
Here's a little something to try when the Healeys are locked up over the
winter.... ;-) Only in OZ....
http://www.asciimation.co.nz/beer/
Steve
61BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 19:54:04 -0400
Subject: Re: No LBC... but funny..
Heh, heh... that's great! But to give credit where credit is due, I don't
think Kiwiland is a part of Oz.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 2:36 PM
Subject: No LBC... but funny..
>
> Here's a little something to try when the Healeys are locked up over the
> winter.... ;-) Only in OZ....
>
> http://www.asciimation.co.nz/beer/
>
>
>
> Steve
> 61BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 17:04:45 -0700
Subject: rechroming
Can the BJ8 inside/outside door handles and window winders be successfully
rechromed? Is the metal of adequate quality?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:57:10 -0400
Subject: Re:BN4 Heater Control
A friend, who is a fire control officer in the Navy, is going to school
in New England for 6 months and I will be caring for his car. He is in
need of a presentable heater control assembly that I could install during
his absence. If anyone could be of assistance please contact me off the
list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:33:56 -0500
Subject: BN1 Oil pressure gauge pipe?
Ok, so I am wearing out the list a little. I have another question. I am
reinstalling the dual oil pressure and temp safety gauge. The copper oil
pressure line that connects to the flex line on the side of the block was
loose and not connected to the fire wall on my car. Can someone describe to
me how the copper line routes to the grommet at the firewall and where it is
solidly attached to the body? A picture of the right side of the engine bay
would be great!
Mark
Nashville
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 11:34:17 +1000
Subject: RE: No LBC... but funny..
Greetings
Stone the crows. Imagine calling New Zuueland part of Ostrayya. It's enough
to start riots in the streets.
Actually from as early as 1900 there has been serious talk about both
countries joining into one. The closest it's come is free trade between the
two countries
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia (also known as the West Island)
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Byers [mailto:byers@cconnect.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 9:54 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: No LBC... but funny..
Heh, heh... that's great! But to give credit where credit is due, I don't
think Kiwiland is a part of Oz.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 2:36 PM
Subject: No LBC... but funny..
>
> Here's a little something to try when the Healeys are locked up over the
> winter.... ;-) Only in OZ....
>
> http://www.asciimation.co.nz/beer/
>
>
>
> Steve
> 61BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 22:06:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Disconcerting steering problem on my 100-4
Jerry,
What should I be looking for when I am inspecting the idler box ? Does it
have a greese fitting or should I open it up and pack it with 30 weight oil
or bearing grease ?
Jim L.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 21:24:25 -0700
Subject: Re: winterizing car
any other suggestions?
Move to Southern California
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey
(no anti freeze needed)
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> If a car is going to be stored over the winter in an unheated area subject to
> occasional freezing temperatures is it best to drain down the cooling system
> entirely or fill it up with antifreeze? Other than the usual waxing, engine &
> tanny oilchange and fuel stabilization and wheel and battery removal are
> there any other suggestions?
>
> Michael Oritt--100 Le Mans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 16:26:49 +1000
Subject: Re: No LBC... but funny..
|
| Heh, heh... that's great! But to give credit where credit is due, I
don't
| think Kiwiland is a part of Oz.
|
They just WISH they were !
That guy has WAAAAY too much time on his hands.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 02:12:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Annual Hong Kong Classic Car Show
Howdy All -
I know chances are slim to none that anyone on this
list will attend, but I am displaying my '66 BJ8 in
the Annual Hong Kong Classic Car show which will take
place this Sunday, October 21 downtown Central on
Chater Road in front of the old Colonial LEGCO
building.
Believe it or not, I just noticed there's a guy w/ a
'61 BT7 who will show his car as well, as well as a
hodge podge of Allards, MBs, TC/TD/TFs, MGs, Jags and
the "Chock a Block" Rolls and Bentleys (that is to be
expected in Hong Kong).
You'll see my BJ8 - very nice interior, decent engine
bay, and 15 year old 20-ft paint job that's about 12
months past due for a respray, but still looks
passable.
Any list member that shows up, you got a pint on me!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 22:23:48 +1000
Subject: Austin Healey Owners Club of NSW (Australia) Annual Concours &
Just a quick note to let you know that this Sunday 21st October the Austin
Healey Owners Club of NSW (Australia) is having its annual concours & display
day on Pyrmont Bridge, in Darling Harbour, Sydney from 9.30am. Cars should be
in place by 9.00am. This coincides with (and is in part sponsored by) The
Sydney International Motor Show.
Last year we had nearly 90 'big' Healeys on Pyrmont Bridge - to take the
record for the largest single marque display ever held on Pyrmont Bridge. All
models of big Healeys will be represented - including some of our rare ex
works factory race cars, DHMC prototypes etc.
You are all welcome to attend : )
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
Competition Secretary, AHOC NSW Inc
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Roger S. Bowker" <sextant at charter.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:23:09 -0400
Subject: spin on oil filer recommendations
Any recommendations regarding spin on oil filter adapters for a 59BT7?
Recommended sources - type - installation experiences - operational
experiences
successes - failures? Recommended filters?
tnx
Roger Bowker
59BT7
Harvard, Ma
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 07:44:37 -0500
Subject: RE: No LBC... but funny..
Sorry... I am aware that OZ is not NZ.. must have been a senior moment.. ;-)
WOW... I can't believe the response I got. Weather is great here in the NE
of PA, USA... ;-).. think I'll go for a drive..
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Quinn, Patrick [mailto:Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au]
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 9:34 PM
To: 'Steve Byers'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: No LBC... but funny..
Greetings
Stone the crows. Imagine calling New Zuueland part of Ostrayya. It's enough
to start riots in the streets.
Actually from as early as 1900 there has been serious talk about both
countries joining into one. The closest it's come is free trade between the
two countries
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia (also known as the West Island)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 07:48:27 -0500
Subject: RE: Austin Healey Owners Club of NSW (Australia) Annual
Let's see.... how can I get to both shows on the same day?... how far is
Hong Kong from OZ?... hmmmmm, wish I had a Healey boat to display... ;-0
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:cd3000@bigpond.net.au]
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 8:24 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Austin Healey Owners Club of NSW (Australia) Annual Concours &
display day
Just a quick note to let you know that this Sunday 21st October the Austin
Healey Owners Club of NSW (Australia) is having its annual concours &
display
day on Pyrmont Bridge, in Darling Harbour, Sydney from 9.30am. Cars should
be
in place by 9.00am. This coincides with (and is in part sponsored by) The
Sydney International Motor Show.
Last year we had nearly 90 'big' Healeys on Pyrmont Bridge - to take the
record for the largest single marque display ever held on Pyrmont Bridge.
All
models of big Healeys will be represented - including some of our rare ex
works factory race cars, DHMC prototypes etc.
You are all welcome to attend : )
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
Competition Secretary, AHOC NSW Inc
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 06:42:12 -0700
Subject: New electrical problem - Result
Thanks to everyone who helped out on my electrical issues of late. The
result seems to be more of human error than anything else. After some
searching and testing I discovered two separate issues. One was that I had
installed the headlight dash switch upside down. For all of those who will
soon be installing new dash switches, on a BJ8 (and many others I suspect),
the middle spade connectors are installed closer to the left side (steering
wheel in the US versions). Otherwise you have a 50/50 chance of getting it
wrong. I picked the wrong one. The other electrical issue I had turned out
to be the wiper motor was wired wrong which is why the upper fuse was
blowing every time the switch was turned on. A word to the wise on this is
look very closely at the wiring schematic. The number 1, 2 ,E connections
need to be triple checked for correct color coding. I mixed up the green
and the black with green wires. Now, a new problem. My new floor mounted
high beam dip switch does not work. Maybe I'll just order two more ones. I
have a feeling I'll need both. Regards,
dp
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:51:25 -0400
Subject: grease for wiper assembly
I'm just cleaning up my windshield wiper assembly for my BJ7. Not getting
into the motor, but just cleaning out the long tubes and two wiper arm
gears. Question: what type of grease should I use to re-lubricate it?
I want a heavy grease that doesn't drip out over time, and one that won't
thin when it gets hot.
For my grease gun I'm using an off the shelf valvoline high temperature
grease which I use for bushings and king pins and what not. Somehow I don't
think it is thick enough to stay in place on the wiper gears.
Any help?
Ryan
64 BJ7
good with nuts & bolts
not so good with petrochemical questions
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 11:04:31 -0400
Subject: Re: BN4 Heater Control
Hi Doug,
IMHO the reproductions are of quite acceptable quality, however I
recommend that you spray them with clear satin urethane before
installation to help prevent the lettering from rubbing off.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 11:12:57 -0400
Subject: goofy temperature guage
Listers,
I have a small problem. My temperature guage
seems to have developed a mind of its own. Sometimes
it doesn't work at all, other times it seems to be right on and then..........
it gets tired around 100 degrees and hangs there. Any suggestions?
BTW the Oil Pressure Guage is fine.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 11:26:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Re:BN4 Heater Control
In a message dated 10/16/01 5:59:55 PM, dwflagg@juno.com writes:
<< He is in
need of a presentable heater control assembly that I could install during
his absence. If anyone could be of assistance please contact me off the
list. Thanks. >>
All of the BN4s use the same heater control assembly as the later cars.
Assuming you're only looking for the face plate portion and the knobs, these
are available from all the standard sources, are of very good quality, and
aren't very expensive (they're among the best of the repro parts available.)
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:45:48 +0100
Subject: Re: Fuel Problem?
I recently had a fuel pump problem not quite as bad but similar. Healey
would start and drive fine but after ten to thirty minutes could start
to miss and would get home with slower speeds and banging on the rear
seat bulkhead. The problem seems to have been caused by old points,
which were filed and re-gaped, and a failing battery, which was
replaced.
Rich
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Clayton La Baw <clabaw at jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:56:44 -0700
Subject: Re: winterizing car
Don't forget "Viva Las Vegas". Some LBC's plus Ann Margaret.
Clay L.
'67 Sprite
At 09:24 PM 10/16/01 -0700, Ron Rader wrote:
> any other suggestions?
>Move to Southern California
>Ron Rader
>Marina del Rey
>(no anti freeze needed)
>
>
>Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> > If a car is going to be stored over the winter in an unheated area
> subject to
> > occasional freezing temperatures is it best to drain down the cooling
> system
> > entirely or fill it up with antifreeze? Other than the usual waxing,
> engine &
> > tanny oilchange and fuel stabilization and wheel and battery removal are
> > there any other suggestions?
> >
> > Michael Oritt--100 Le Mans
DISCLAIMER: JPL now requires notice in all electronic communication that
all personal and professional opinions presented herein are my own and do
not, in any way, represent the opinion or policy of JPL.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:28:33 -0700
Subject: SD Healey Hearsay Electronic Edition, October Issue
Hi,
I've just uploaded the October 2001 issue of the Austin Healey Club of San
Diego's Healey Hearsay Electronic Edition, featuring Ron Martin's report
from the Monterey Historics. See <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh>.
Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, California
Vice President/Membership Coordinator
Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
Editor, Healey Hearsay <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 11:19:33 -0600
Subject: elec booster pump
Listers,
A couple of weeks ago I posted a press release for an auxiliary water
circulation device. Here is a link to pictures, performance, and pricing
info.
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/newproduct_ebp.html
Disclaimer....I have no experience with product or Mr. Davies.....
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 11:25:57 -0600
Subject: RE: goofy temperature guage
It's been sniffing its own ether??
-----Original Message-----
From: tom Blaskovics [mailto:u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 8:13 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: goofy temperature guage
Listers,
I have a small problem. My temperature guage
seems to have developed a mind of its own. Sometimes
it doesn't work at all, other times it seems to be right on and
then..........
it gets tired around 100 degrees and hangs there. Any suggestions?
BTW the Oil Pressure Guage is fine.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Troy Thames <TThames at barnwell-whaley.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 16:31:29 -0400
Subject: Comments for stripping out the trunk area?
I'm disassembling my 62 BT7 to start a complete restoration, and after
removing the armacord(sp?) in the boot/trunk, there is a lot of glue residue
still attached to the metal. Will that stuff come off during sand-blasting,
or do I need to clean it all off beforehand? If I need to remove it, how?
Any experience? The stuff is not real thick, but is hard to scrape off
because it's still pretty rubbery.
Troy
Charleston, SC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 16:50:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Comments for stripping out the trunk area?
possibly mineral spirits -- lacquer thinner, for sure.
Troy Thames wrote:
>
>
> I'm disassembling my 62 BT7 to start a complete restoration, and after
> removing the armacord(sp?) in the boot/trunk, there is a lot of glue residue
> still attached to the metal. Will that stuff come off during sand-blasting,
> or do I need to clean it all off beforehand? If I need to remove it, how?
> Any experience? The stuff is not real thick, but is hard to scrape off
> because it's still pretty rubbery.
>
> Troy
> Charleston, SC
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 18:33:20 -0400
Subject: Seat kit
listers:
I am restoring a 1957 Longbridge Bn-4 with only scavenged front
seats which need seat bottoms and recovering. I would love to use a
leather kit, but on E-bay #596749392 there is a new unused seat (backs &
bottoms) and center hump cover for a Bn-1 & Bn-2, with no bids. My
question is will they fit my scavenged seats- the seat frames are angle
iron, not the deep pans. I'm not restoring to a concourse level but a
every nice day daily driver. Thanks in advance
Dennis Broughel
Bn-4...45281
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Clayton La Baw <clabaw at jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 16:42:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Comments for stripping out the trunk area?
Troy -
I had the best luck with Xylene. Wear gloves.
Clay L.
'67 Sprite
At 04:50 PM 10/17/01 -0500, Jerry Wall wrote:
>possibly mineral spirits -- lacquer thinner, for sure.
>Troy Thames wrote:
> >
> >
> > I'm disassembling my 62 BT7 to start a complete restoration, and after
> > removing the armacord(sp?) in the boot/trunk, there is a lot of glue
> residue
> > still attached to the metal. Will that stuff come off during
> sand-blasting,
> > or do I need to clean it all off beforehand? If I need to remove it, how?
> > Any experience? The stuff is not real thick, but is hard to scrape off
> > because it's still pretty rubbery.
> >
> > Troy
> > Charleston, SC
> >
> > /
DISCLAIMER: JPL now requires notice in all electronic communication that
all personal and professional opinions presented herein are my own and do
not, in any way, represent the opinion or policy of JPL.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 18:39:09 -0500
Subject: ??
Sorry to bomb the List but does anyone have Chuck Anderson, Jr.'s e-mail
address?? OK AHCA.
Thanks.
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 17:35:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Comments for stripping out the trunk area?
3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover works pretty good on a lot of glues,
though I haven't used it in this circumstance.
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> possibly mineral spirits -- lacquer thinner, for sure.
> Troy Thames wrote:
> >
> >
> > I'm disassembling my 62 BT7 to start a complete restoration, and after
> > removing the armacord(sp?) in the boot/trunk, there is a lot of glue
>residue
> > still attached to the metal. Will that stuff come off during
>sand-blasting,
> > or do I need to clean it all off beforehand? If I need to remove it, how?
> > Any experience? The stuff is not real thick, but is hard to scrape off
> > because it's still pretty rubbery.
> >
> > Troy
> > Charleston, SC
> >
> > /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 18:08:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: spin on oil filer recommendations
Roger -
I've found that the Fram PH43 is probably the best
filter to get. This filter is quite large for good
filtering capacity, but is short enough to fit in the
engine bay on the side of the motor.
The key element of this filter, however, is that it
has an internal check valve, which prevents oil from
spilling back into the oil pan when the motor is off.
This valve is absolutely critical to assuring that the
engine has sufficient oil flow upon start up. If you
use a filter without this valve, you will wear your
engine out prematurely.
The reason you need this check valve is the oil filter
conversion kit holds the filter on its side and not
upsidedown like most modern cars.....
As a side note, this PH43 filter is also what's used
on later model MGBs....
BTW if you run into a Peggy or Johnathan Bragg also of
Harvard MA, tell 'em Alan Seigrist says Hi!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Roger S. Bowker" <sextant@charter.net> wrote:
>
> Any recommendations regarding spin on oil filter
> adapters for a 59BT7?
> Recommended sources - type - installation
> experiences - operational
> experiences
> successes - failures? Recommended filters?
>
> tnx
>
> Roger Bowker
> 59BT7
> Harvard, Ma
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 18:40:46 -0700
Subject: EVENT ALERT--SAN JUAN BAUTISTA MEET
EVENT ALERT
REMINDER: Autumn Classic Car Show in San Juan Bautista CA is set for
Sunday October 21
The show starts at 9AM on the main street of San Juan Bautista. Price
$25. There are no same-day Registrations. If you plan to attend CONTACT
Bill Meade at 831-722-3253 for registration info.
SPECIAL TREAT: Bob Griffin is planning to bring down his 100-S. The
car,
number 3802, was the subject of a recent Four-In-Tune ground up
restoration. Car is fresh from winning awards at Meadowbrook Hall Concours
and running the Colorado Grande. Thanks to Ken Freese for the information.
Also planned: Bill also has an awards ceremony planned, followed by a tour
of the local area in the afternoon. Note: registration fee also includes
participation in a coastal tour on Saturday afternoon.
Directions to the meet: Take 101 south to Route 156 (below Gilroy) east
into San Juan Bautista.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 18:33:27 -0700
Subject: Re: spin on oil filer recommendations
This was an eye opener for me, I now use Mobil 1 filters.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
bk
-------------------------------------
At 06:08 PM 10/17/2001, you wrote:
>Roger -
>
>I've found that the Fram PH43 is probably the best
>filter to get. This filter is quite large for good
>filtering capacity, but is short enough to fit in the
>engine bay on the side of the motor.
>
>The key element of this filter, however, is that it
>has an internal check valve, which prevents oil from
>spilling back into the oil pan when the motor is off.
>This valve is absolutely critical to assuring that the
>engine has sufficient oil flow upon start up. If you
>use a filter without this valve, you will wear your
>engine out prematurely.
>
>The reason you need this check valve is the oil filter
>conversion kit holds the filter on its side and not
>upsidedown like most modern cars.....
>
>As a side note, this PH43 filter is also what's used
>on later model MGBs....
>
>BTW if you run into a Peggy or Johnathan Bragg also of
>Harvard MA, tell 'em Alan Seigrist says Hi!
>
>Cheers,
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>--- "Roger S. Bowker" <sextant@charter.net> wrote:
> >
> > Any recommendations regarding spin on oil filter
> > adapters for a 59BT7?
> > Recommended sources - type - installation
> > experiences - operational
> > experiences
> > successes - failures? Recommended filters?
> >
> > tnx
> >
> > Roger Bowker
> > 59BT7
> > Harvard, Ma
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 18:54:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: spin on oil filer recommendations
Bill -
Great site. Then make it a filter equivalent to Fram
PH43!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com> wrote:
>
> This was an eye opener for me, I now use Mobil 1
> filters.
>
> http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
>
> bk
> -------------------------------------
> At 06:08 PM 10/17/2001, you wrote:
>
> >Roger -
> >
> >I've found that the Fram PH43 is probably the best
> >filter to get. This filter is quite large for good
> >filtering capacity, but is short enough to fit in
> the
> >engine bay on the side of the motor.
> >
> >The key element of this filter, however, is that it
> >has an internal check valve, which prevents oil
> from
> >spilling back into the oil pan when the motor is
> off.
> >This valve is absolutely critical to assuring that
> the
> >engine has sufficient oil flow upon start up. If
> you
> >use a filter without this valve, you will wear your
> >engine out prematurely.
> >
> >The reason you need this check valve is the oil
> filter
> >conversion kit holds the filter on its side and not
> >upsidedown like most modern cars.....
> >
> >As a side note, this PH43 filter is also what's
> used
> >on later model MGBs....
> >
> >BTW if you run into a Peggy or Johnathan Bragg also
> of
> >Harvard MA, tell 'em Alan Seigrist says Hi!
> >
> >Cheers,
> >
> >Alan
> >
> >'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 12:11:01 +1000
Subject: RE: EVENT ALERT--SAN JUAN BAUTISTA MEET
G'day
What a busy day I am going to have this Sunday.
I will have to careful with this but using the differing time zones and
expecially the International Date Line to my advantage I should just be able
to attend the Austin-Healey Owners Club concours here in Sydney on Sunday
morning. Catch a plane to Hong Kong and be at the Annual Hong Kong Classic
Car Show for lunch.
Then if I'm quick I should make it to the San Juan Bautista Meet in
California by mid to late afternoon. Do I still get tea and sticky buns
(Cream cakes to you Americans) if I don't pay the $25?
I'll probably have to take Monday off work to get back to Australia.
See you all there.
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia (For the moment)
-----Original Message-----
From: John Trifari [mailto:john4@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 11:41 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: EVENT ALERT--SAN JUAN BAUTISTA MEET
EVENT ALERT
REMINDER: Autumn Classic Car Show in San Juan Bautista CA is set for
Sunday October 21
The show starts at 9AM on the main street of San Juan Bautista.
Price
$25. There are no same-day Registrations. If you plan to attend CONTACT
Bill Meade at 831-722-3253 for registration info.
SPECIAL TREAT: Bob Griffin is planning to bring down his 100-S.
The car,
number 3802, was the subject of a recent Four-In-Tune ground up
restoration. Car is fresh from winning awards at Meadowbrook Hall Concours
and running the Colorado Grande. Thanks to Ken Freese for the information.
Also planned: Bill also has an awards ceremony planned, followed by a tour
of the local area in the afternoon. Note: registration fee also includes
participation in a coastal tour on Saturday afternoon.
Directions to the meet: Take 101 south to Route 156 (below Gilroy) east
into San Juan Bautista.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Bridger" <RBridger01 at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 22:18:01 -0400
Subject: Re; Spin on oil filter
I have installed a spin on filter similar to that offered by Moss on my BJ 7.
Works fine and is a lot less mess. The instruction will list a filter and you
can cross reference it to most other brands if you like.
Bob
BJ7 & 8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 22:49:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Seat kit
> listers:
> I am restoring a 1957 Longbridge Bn-4 with only scavenged front
> seats which need seat bottoms and recovering. I would love to use a
> leather kit, but on E-bay #596749392 there is a new unused seat (backs &
> bottoms) and center hump cover for a Bn-1 & Bn-2, with no bids. My
> question is will they fit my scavenged seats- the seat frames are angle
> iron, not the deep pans. I'm not restoring to a concourse level but a
> every nice day daily driver. Thanks in advance
>
> Dennis Broughel
> Bn-4...45281
Dennis,
In fact your Longbridge built BN4 should have the deeper seat pans with wood
seat bottoms as per BN1 and BN2 designs. These kits would then be proper for
yours.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 01:48:36 -0400
Subject: Heritage Upholstery Shop
I have been reading on the List that Heritage is a good company to get AH
interiors from. I have written them several e-mails inquiring about prices
for a complete BN2 interior, and have yet to get a response from them. Is
this pretty typical of them?
Thanks,
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Tong <alan at picotech.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 08:33:46 +0000
Subject: rear seat belts / child seat
Hi All,
Does anyone have any advice / experience to share on fitting rear
seat belts to a 3000 MK3?
When I bought the car I hoped I could fit our childs car seat in the
back, but despite trying various car seats, they all seem too tall &
get in the way of the rear window when the hood is raised.
As my daughter is 3 years old, rather than using a car seat, I am
considering fitting 4 point seatbelts / harness for the rear
seats. If anyone has done this before I would appreciate some advice
such as where are the best points to secure the belts.
Thanks
Alan Tong
1964 Healey 3000 MK III
1974 MG Midget
1995 MG MGF VVC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dsherm at mindspring.com (Daniel Sherman)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 09:56:03 GMT
Subject: healeys on a CD
A service I have started providing for people puts there pictures on a
cd in a flipping album. What I would be willing to do for the group
is.
Put your healey pictures on a cd and upload it to the web for download
(depending on size) just email me pictures of your healey off the list
with your name and state and country (John Doe, Quebec, Canada)
and any link to a home page with more pictures of your healey or local
healey gatherings you went to. I will arrange the pictures in
alphabetical order with the person's name and state below the picture.
Plus if someone wants to work with me (or several) possibly we can put
together a historical album of the healey. All I would ask for the
cd's to list members is shipping plus $.50 for each cd to cover costs
only. If you have pictures but none on the computer contact me offline
and we can arrange for them to be scanned and shipped back to you by
snail mail.
Any more questions just email me and we can discuss ideas.
Daniel Sherman
1962 Healey Sprite
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 09:09:25 -0400
Subject: Re:Gas Cap
Does anyone know of a NAPA equivalent for the 6 cylinder gas caps. TIA.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 09:20:38 -0400
Subject: fuel pump troubles
Thanks to all who responded. The adjustment required taking the pump body
apart which is what I didn't want to do in the first place, so I've decided
to use this one as a learning tool. I'm getting a new one to install and
I'll repair this one as per your instructions. Then I'll have a spare,
which is probably the way to go in any event.
Thanks again,
Bill, BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 07:34:04 -0700
Subject: Re: SD Healey Hearsay Electronic Edition, October Issue
At 10:16 PM 10/17/01 -0700, Ron Rader wrote:
>Rick:
>does anyone have info on this event:
>
>Oct 21: 2nd Annual "Run To The 101" car show, 9 am - 2 pm, Oceanside.
>Pre-registration
>$20
>before October 15, or $25 at the show. Proceeds benefit Main Street Oceanside.
>they were supposed to fax the info to me but I have not received it.
All I have is a flyer that was passed out at the last AHCSD meeting,
might've been brought by Bob Humphreys. There's a phone number listed:
(760) 438-1319.
>Is it a show or a drive? Types of cars expected?
It's a show, for Pre '72 cars. (According to the flyer.)
>anyone going?
I don't know.
Later,
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 11:15:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Heritage Upholstery Shop
Thanks, y'all, for the responses to my question. Everyone seems to be
saying, in effect, that Heritage, although known for a first rate product,
doesn't give a sh*t about their customers. I have decided to go with AH
Spares instead. They have an excellent product, too, and are very easy to
communicate with.
Bob
>Bob,
>That seems to be typical; I had the same problem with communication.
>Customer had ordered a new tonneau, which was supposed to have been shipped
>9/21. Around 10/7 we started making inquiries, with me
>emailing and him phoning. They only responded after his third or fourth
>call, and never did acknowledge my 2 emails; they used the Canadian
>Thanksgiving as an excuse. Tonneau finally arrived last Monday. If
>it's any consolation, I believe it was worth the wait, although we have
>not installed the tonneau yet.
>Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed@thebest.net>
>To: "Dennis Broughel" <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
>Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 1:48 AM
>Subject: Heritage Upholstery Shop
>
>
>>
>> I have been reading on the List that Heritage is a good company to get AH
>> interiors from. I have written them several e-mails inquiring about
>prices
>> for a complete BN2 interior, and have yet to get a response from them.
Is
>> this pretty typical of them?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bradley H. Simmons" <email at bighealeys.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 11:18:30 -0500
Subject: Factory Parts List Reprints
I am extremely interested in purchasing a "Factory Parts List"
reprint for my 100-6, Series BN6; unfortunately, the only
publications I have been able to find that seem remotely
applicable are the following:
Factory Parts List for Austin-Healey 100-6, Series BN4
Factory Parts List for Austin-Healey 3000 Roadsters,
Series BN7 and BT7
Ideally, the correct BN6 "Factory Parts List" would be the
solution and if anyone is aware of a reliable source, I will
be most grateful.
If the aforementioned solution is not possible, any insight
as to which of the two available publications would be best
suited for my intended application will be appreciated.
All responses are, as always, greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Bradley
'58 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 14:49:49 -0400
Subject: Choke cable
The choke cable on my BJ8 will no longer lock in place when I turn it. Is
there something internal to the mechanism I can fix or do I need to just
replace the portion from the choke control body up to and including the
knob? Thanks.....
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 14:57:46 -0400
Subject: Shroud removal
Healeyites,
I am in the process of trying to remove the center shroud of my Longbridge
BN4, have all the fasteners I know of removed, but cannot lift the shroud
off the cowling. It appears there is a sealer of some sort between the
firewall and the shroud. How can I safely separate the pieces?
Thanks,
Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 15:23:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Shroud removal
Hi Gordy,
The shroud is "glued" to the cowling with a black bitumen type adhesive.
It usually goes rock hard and cracks loose while the car is in use,
however sometimes it is really on there.
Presuming that you have removed the pop rivets at the sides, the shroud
can usually be released with some gentle persuasion.
Lift up on the front and if necessary pry up gently at the rear of the
bonnet opening but be very careful not to lift so much that you bend the
shroud.
It will probably come loose with a bang just about when you think it is
going to bend.
Good luck.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 12:33:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Shroud removal
I ran a long thin putty knife between the shroud and the frame just above the
firewall. You will feel some resistance like cutting caulk, but once you break
it
all loose the shroud will pop off. Get help in lifting. It's light but awkward.
Brian
Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi Gordy,
> The shroud is "glued" to the cowling with a black bitumen type adhesive.
> It usually goes rock hard and cracks loose while the car is in use,
> however sometimes it is really on there.
> Presuming that you have removed the pop rivets at the sides, the shroud
> can usually be released with some gentle persuasion.
> Lift up on the front and if necessary pry up gently at the rear of the
> bonnet opening but be very careful not to lift so much that you bend the
> shroud.
> It will probably come loose with a bang just about when you think it is
> going to bend.
> Good luck.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 15:52:24 -0400
Subject: Reduction gear starters
I talked with a vendor at Road America in August who sold reduction
gear starters for several LBCs. Lost his card.
Can anyone recommend a source.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 15:51:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Factory Parts List Reprints
In a message dated 10/18/01 9:22:34 AM, email@bighealeys.com writes:
<< Factory Parts List for Austin-Healey 100-6, Series BN4
Factory Parts List for Austin-Healey 3000 Roadsters,
Series BN7 and BT7
>>
You're right to wonder -- you do need the BN6 Service Parts List, which was a
separate publication. I believe that I got the one I used for our book from
British Car Specialists in Stockton, CA -- www.britishcarspecialists.com
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Warrenberg at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 16:31:41 EDT
Subject: Bakelite thinga ma jinga
List members,
Noticed that Moss is selling a "Control head assembly" nee turn signal switch
for $264.95. Does that mean someone is making the "bakelite" housing and if
so does anyone know where it can be purchased. My ad hoc repair has been
holding together, but it is only a matter of time before it splits asunder
again. Thanks for any help?
Warren Berg
60 and 61 BT7's, 63 TR4, 71 280SL, & a 90 300ZX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 13:48:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Heritage Upholstery Shop
Whoa! Can't let this one go by. All of my dealings with Heritage have been
above reproach. The company has been VERY responsive to me and have gone
out of their way to serve my needs. When I expressed a need to have a
product in house by a certain date they were very upfront about their
backlog of work and didn't try to jerk me around at all. I would say
customer service is a close second to their outstanding quality. I recommend
them without hesitation. Too bad your experience has been different.
Randy Harris '66 BJ8
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Wiedemeyer <boxweed@thebest.net>
> To: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
> Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 8:15 AM
> Subject: Re: Heritage Upholstery Shop
> > Thanks, y'all, for the responses to my question. Everyone seems to be
> > saying, in effect, that Heritage, although known for a first rate
product,
> > doesn't give a sh*t about their customers. I have decided to go with AH
> > Spares instead. They have an excellent product, too, and are very easy
to
> > communicate with.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > >Bob,
> > >That seems to be typical; I had the same problem with communication.
> > >Customer had ordered a new tonneau, which was supposed to have been
> shipped
> > >9/21. Around 10/7 we started making inquiries, with me
> > >emailing and him phoning. They only responded after his third or
fourth
> > >call, and never did acknowledge my 2 emails; they used the Canadian
> > >Thanksgiving as an excuse. Tonneau finally arrived last Monday. If
> > >it's any consolation, I believe it was worth the wait, although we have
> > >not installed the tonneau yet.
> > >Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 22:24:13 +0100
Subject: bakelite thinga ma jinga
Hello Warren,
I noticed your e-mail to the Healey list requiring help with your
horn/indicator switch assembly.
If you inform me of the type that you have,{ fixed or adjustable steering, and
also four or six cylinder Healey } I will forward you the parts completely
free of charge. The only thing that I require you to do for me and that is to
obtain a English Union Jack flag and fly it alongside your Stars and Stripes
flag, rightfully where the two belong.
Have a great day, and may your God go with you.
Regards.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 14:49:37 -0700
Subject: Re: bakelite thinga ma jinga
My kinda guy!!
Coop
> Hello Warren,
> I noticed your e-mail to the Healey list requiring help with your
> horn/indicator switch assembly.
> If you inform me of the type that you have,{ fixed or adjustable steering,
and
> also four or six cylinder Healey } I will forward you the parts completely
> free of charge. The only thing that I require you to do for me and that is
to
> obtain a English Union Jack flag and fly it alongside your Stars and
Stripes
> flag, rightfully where the two belong.
> Have a great day, and may your God go with you.
> Regards.
> David.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 18:28:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Heritage
Thanks Randy, I feel the same way. My experiences with Heritage were
absolutely
fabulous. I told them I was doing a concours car and that was what I
got;
concours quality. Tony, who runs the place is very accessible and very
accommodating. I'm usually gruff and don't take any crap from vendors,
so my
recommendations are few. Heritage has my highest recommendation.
Bob Denton
Coop1 wrote:
> Whoa! Can't let this one go by. All of my dealings with Heritage
have been
> above reproach. The company has been VERY responsive to me and have
gone
> out of their way to serve my needs. When I expressed a need to have
a
> product in house by a certain date they were very upfront about their
> backlog of work and didn't try to jerk me around at all. I would say
> customer service is a close second to their outstanding quality. I
recommend
> them without hesitation. Too bad your experience has been different.
> Randy Harris '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 19:57:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Heritage Upholstery Shop
I have had a good experience with Heritage. My upholstery was delayed,but
they had a good excuse. It was because of the events of 9/11 and my leather
was coming from England. They have been very good and up front with me.
Duncan is especial good to deal with. They are having troubles with their
E-mail so you should use the phone to contact them.
Dean
BJ8
> > > Thanks, y'all, for the responses to my question. Everyone seems to be
> > > saying, in effect, that Heritage, although known for a first rate
> product,
> > > doesn't give a sh*t about their customers. I have decided to go with
AH
> > > Spares instead. They have an excellent product, too, and are very
easy
> to
> > > communicate with.
> > >
> > > Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 20:22:05 -0400
Subject: Road America Vendor
Thanks to all for responses to my request.
Now have my reduction gear starter on order.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 19:21:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Choke cable
Scot -
You can fix the cable.... Once you've removed the
cable from the car, you'll see a "C" shaped clip
located on the stiff metal shaft that mounts to the
dash. Remove this C clip and there should be a little
tiny metal piece that binds between the inner choke
shaft and the C clip. This metal piece wears over
time and that's why your cable doesn't hold anymore.
You can try putting some sort of custom spacer behind
the metal piece, or fashioning a whole new one. Good
luck! Did you recieve my other email BTW?
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
wrote:
>
> The choke cable on my BJ8 will no longer lock in
> place when I turn it. Is
> there something internal to the mechanism I can fix
> or do I need to just
> replace the portion from the choke control body up
> to and including the
> knob? Thanks.....
>
> Scot
> '66
> BJ8
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 23:34:05 -0400
Subject: Shroud removal
My 2 cents:
I had the same problem, and I heard of people kinking the shroud by
trying to pull it up too hard.
I slapped the shroud from the engine compartment to the dash with
the palm of my hand forcefully to crack the adhesive. Look at
pictures of the scuttle bracing underneath to make sure you don't
hit in the wrong spots. I also slid a very thin spatula around the
rim where the rivets were to help free it.
Good luck!
Alain Giguere
BN7 bits
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 00:13:56 -0400
Subject: Fw: Heritage Upholstery Shop
I talked with Duncan today, and was very impressed. I take back everything
I said about them!! I will be receiving some samples from them in the mail,
and will then place an order with them.
Bob
>
>>
>> Whoa! Can't let this one go by. All of my dealings with Heritage have
>been
>>above reproach. The company has been VERY responsive to me and have gone
>>out of their way to serve my needs. When I expressed a need to have a
>>product in house by a certain date they were very upfront about their
>>backlog of work and didn't try to jerk me around at all. I would say
>>customer service is a close second to their outstanding quality. I
>recommend
>>them without hesitation. Too bad your experience has been different.
>> Randy Harris '66 BJ8
>>
>>
>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: Wiedemeyer <boxweed@thebest.net>
>>> To: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
>>> Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 8:15 AM
>>> Subject: Re: Heritage Upholstery Shop
>>
>>> > Thanks, y'all, for the responses to my question. Everyone seems to be
>>> > saying, in effect, that Heritage, although known for a first rate
>>product,
>>> > doesn't give a sh*t about their customers. I have decided to go with
>AH
>>> > Spares instead. They have an excellent product, too, and are very
easy
>>to
>>> > communicate with.
>>> >
>>> > Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 21:43:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Choke cable
I had the same problem and it was caused by the whole assembly loosening up
in the dashboard. Everything was turning. Tightened the nut on the back of
the dash. Problem solved. Be advised, however, that it is a bear to get
to. The nut is recessed and partially behind a piece of sheetmetal - on my
car anyway.
Len. 1967 BJ8
Brother speeders
Let's rehearse.
All together
Good morning nurse.
Burma Shave
----- Original Message -----
From: "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Listers" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 11:49 AM
Subject: Choke cable
>
> The choke cable on my BJ8 will no longer lock in place when I turn it. Is
> there something internal to the mechanism I can fix or do I need to just
> replace the portion from the choke control body up to and including the
> knob? Thanks.....
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 22:37:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Heritage Upholstery Shop
Quality:
it sure looks like their quality is better than any other set that I have seen.
They look very nice.
ron Rader
Coop1 wrote:
> Whoa! Can't let this one go by. All of my dealings with Heritage have been
> above reproach. The company has been VERY responsive to me and have gone
> out of their way to serve my needs. When I expressed a need to have a
> product in house by a certain date they were very upfront about their
> backlog of work and didn't try to jerk me around at all. I would say
> customer service is a close second to their outstanding quality. I recommend
> them without hesitation. Too bad your experience has been different.
> Randy Harris '66 BJ8
>
> > > Thanks, y'all, for the responses to my question. Everyone seems to be
> > > saying, in effect, that Heritage, although known for a first rate
> product,
> > > doesn't give a sh*t about their customers. I have decided to go with AH
> > > Spares instead. They have an excellent product, too, and are very easy
> to communicate with.
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > >
> > > >Bob,
> > > >That seems to be typical; I had the same problem with communication.
> > > >Customer had ordered a new tonneau, which was supposed to have been
> > shipped
> > > >9/21. Around 10/7 we started making inquiries, with me
> > > >emailing and him phoning. They only responded after his third or
> fourth
> > > >call, and never did acknowledge my 2 emails; they used the Canadian
> > > >Thanksgiving as an excuse. Tonneau finally arrived last Monday. If
> > > >it's any consolation, I believe it was worth the wait, although we have
> > > >not installed the tonneau yet.
> > > >Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 17:49:29 +1000
Subject: Update to Healey 100 Site
Hello All
The Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site has just been updated, with some
new images of the restoration of Blair Harbers #24. As usual a link can
be found at the bottom of the index page below.
Regards
Larry Varley
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 11:05:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Choke cable
In a message dated 10/18/01 7:24:18 PM, international_investor@yahoo.com
writes:
<< Remove this C clip and there should be a little
tiny metal piece that binds between the inner choke
shaft and the C clip. >>
As a piece of trivia, I once nominated this little metal piece as the
smallest part on the Healey -- any contenders for smaller.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 08:24:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Choke cable
I haven't seen the clip in question, but I'd nominate the screw that holds
the knob on the heater slider!
---------------
At 08:05 AM 10/19/2001, you wrote:
>In a message dated 10/18/01 7:24:18 PM, international_investor@yahoo.com
>writes:
>
><< Remove this C clip and there should be a little
>tiny metal piece that binds between the inner choke
>shaft and the C clip. >>
>
>As a piece of trivia, I once nominated this little metal piece as the
>smallest part on the Healey -- any contenders for smaller.
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
FROM: Laura Pumford <L.PUMFORD at VERIZON.NET>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 10:52:09 -0500 (CDT)
SUBJECT: !"#$
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
PrvCnt.exe]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 12:17:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Choke cable
Hi Gary.
I think the tiny "C" clip on the end of the distributor vacuum capsule threaded
rod is smaller but it would be close.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> As a piece of trivia, I once nominated this little metal piece as the
> smallest part on the Healey -- any contenders for smaller.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 02:35:02 +1000
Subject: Re: Choke cable
Personally, I think my bank balance - post restoration - wins hands down!!!!
(which was marginally larger than bugger all - only marginally though.....)
: )
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
> Hi Gary.
>
> I think the tiny "C" clip on the end of the distributor vacuum capsule
threaded
> rod is smaller but it would be close.
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> > As a piece of trivia, I once nominated this little metal piece as the
> > smallest part on the Healey -- any contenders for smaller.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Keith <75667.1332 at compuserve.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 12:53:04 -0400
Subject: MPH and Tach Reading
Could a few of you tell me what Tach RPM reading you see at say 50 MPH with
a BJ8 with the overdrive in the "on" position.
Went for an exhaust emissions test the other day and the rpm readings on
their monitor did not make any sense ... much lower than what the Tach on
the dashboard was saying. But she passed just fine. Thanks!
Keith Elmund
Ms Healey 29100 '65 Phase 1 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 12:38:01 -0500
Subject: MPH and Tach Reading
>Could a few of you tell me what Tach RPM reading you see at say 50 MPH with
>a BJ8 with the overdrive in the "on" position.
Keith:
Depends on what tires you are using. With original tire size, 175HR15, you
should have 2200 rpm at 51.76 mph. This assumes you have the original rear
end ratio of 3.909:1 and an O/D equal to 1.21645%.
185/70 tire = 51.45 mph @ 2200 rpm
165/70 tire = 49.20 mph @ 2200 rpm
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 16:01:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Choke cable
> I had the same problem and it was caused by the whole assembly loosening
up
> in the dashboard. Everything was turning. Tightened the nut on the back
of
> the dash. Problem solved. Be advised, however, that it is a bear to get
> to. The nut is recessed and partially behind a piece of sheetmetal - on
my
> car anyway.
>
> Len. 1967 BJ8
Anyone have a slick trick or tool for getting to this nut?
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From William Wagner <wcwagner at soltec.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 15:08:13 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Exchange Rate & Heritage Certificates
I finally got around to ordering the certificate for my BJ8. I
used my Mastercard to do it. The exchange rate worked out such that I
only paid $40.47. Can't wait to get it.
Bill Wagner.
Rantoul, Illinois
'67 BJ8 w/58 100-6 motor & tri-carbs
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at erols.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 09:14:25 -0400
Subject: pre startup oiling
Hello Listers,
I will be putting the engine back in my 3000 soon after a
complete rebuild. The engine has been sitting for about a year and I want to
get some oil through the engine before I fire it up. any thoughts on the best
way to do this ? If I can get at the connection on the block that connects to
the oil pressure gauge I thought I could pump through that. I dont think I can
use the flex hose on the car though because of the restrictor orifice . The
engine is the only thing I have never R & R' d before and I have had the car
since 1973. I am new to this list and I appreciate not only the expertise but
also the good nature of the listers. Thanks in advance. Michael Shepard 1967
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 16:59:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Choke cable
> Anyone have a slick trick or tool for getting to this nut?
>
> Keith Pennell
Fun job!!
Undo the primary cable inner from the trunnion in the splitter at the back of
the
engine compartment and pull the primary cable through into the dash area..
Remove tachometer.
Thread a thin walled 5/8" spark plug socket over the cable and up to the nut.
Use a wrench on the socket to tighten the nut.
If you are smart install a 5/8" "pal" nut to lock the hex nut.
Refit the tachometer.
The easiest way to reinstall the engine end of the primary cable to the splitter
is remove the splitter assy from the firewall.
Whole job only takes about one hour on a good day :-)
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
P.S. thanks for the line on reduction starters.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 17:30:32 EDT
Subject: Re: pre startup oiling
In a message dated 10/19/01 3:27:53 PM Central Daylight Time,
mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com writes:
<< I will be putting the engine back in my 3000 soon after a
complete rebuild. The engine has been sitting for about a year and I want to
get some oil through the engine before I fire it up. any thoughts on the best
way to do this ? >>
There is an article by Adnan Merchant on the Technical Article page of the
North Texas AH Club web site <ntahc.org>. Pre lubricating engine. This may
help.
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 22:52:48 +0100
Subject: pre startup oiling
Michael,
if your engine has been "dry stored" for awhile with no oil up to the top end
prior to start up, may I suggest that you remove the small bridge pipe oil
feed to the top rocker shaft and pump oil into the union that comes up from
the cylinder head. Perhaps pump as much as a oil can full of oil into this
union, this is in effect priming the pump prior to turning the engine over
with the starter motor at a later time.
Good luck.
Regards.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 23:03:12 +0100
Subject: re:choke cable.
To secure the choke cable on a BJ8 there is no need to even gain access to the
rear of the dash.Simply remove the inner cable and insert a "Allen" key into
the end of the cable on the dashboard and secure in a clockwise motion. the
interior of the cable at the dash end has a "Allen" key internal locater.
This applies to original choke cables, some aftermarket may not be quite the
same.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 23:49:43 +0100
Subject: Fw: BMW Sells British Motor Heritage Ltd.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
----- Original Message -----
Subject: BMW Sells British Motor Heritage Ltd.
> The BMW Group has reached an agreement to sell its British Motor Heritage
> Limited classic car parts business, based in Witney, Oxfordshire, to the
> Legacy Consortium.
> Legacy is a private Consortium consisting of three people, David Bishop,
> Neil Morrick, and John Yea, who have extensive experience in the classic
car
> field both in manufacturing operations and parts distribution.
> Subject to completion of necessary due diligence, ownership of the British
> Motor Heritage Limited operation will transfer to the Legacy Consortium by
> the end of November 2001.
> Following the sale, the existing employees will be taken over by the new
> owners who will continue to operate the business from the Witney site for
> the foreseeable future.
> Established in 1983, British Motor Heritage Limited manufactures parts for
a
> number of classic vehicles, including complete bodyshells. These include
the
> Mini Classic, Austin-Healey Sprite, MG Midget, MGB, and Triumph TR6. In
> addition, British Motor Heritage Limited distributes via a world-wide
> network of Approved Specialist parts, for these models from a range of
> suppliers to provide a comprehensive service to the classic car owner.
>
> About British Motor Heritage Limited
> British Motor Heritage Limited was established in 1983 as the commercial
arm
> of the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust. Its aim was, and is, to put
> original components for classic British cars back into manufacture, using
> original tools wherever possible. Initially part of the Rover Group
> alongside the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust (now run independently
> and the Heritage Motor Centre at Gaydon, now owned by Land Rover), BMH
> remained part of the BMW Group following the restructuring of the group's
UK
> activities in 2000.
> British Motor Heritage Limited is the largest organization of its type in
> the world. Drawing upon a wide range of expertise and original production
> tooling, BMH is able to manufacture previously unobtainable parts for a
> variety of popular classic British cars. BMH occupies a unique position,
in
> that it reproduces entire bodyshells for the Mini Classic, Austin-Healey
> Sprite, MG Midget, MGB, and Triumph TR6 using the original tools, presses
> and assembly jigs - a feat still not matched by any other organization in
> the world!
> The traditional skills employed in producing BMH body panels are matched
by
> the extensive use of modern materials and processes. Zinc coated steels
are
> used throughout and all panel work is electrophoretically primed, offering
> the same level of corrosion resistance found on most modern vehicles.
> Formerly based at diverse locations in Oxfordshire, Warwickshire and West
> London, British Motor Heritage Limited has centralized all of its
activities
> in one location at Witney in Oxfordshire. Its office and manufacturing
> complex now houses all of the essential elements of the company, from its
> design, engineering, manufacturing, storage and distribution facilities to
> its purchasing, sales, marketing and administrative support.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 19:40:12 -0500
Subject: Threaded hole in Chassis
Just to the rear of the tang on the chassis where the clutch pipe connects
to its flexible pipe, there is a threaded hole (3/8 24tpi). What mounts
here? Is it for the engine ground strap? Or?
Thanks for the help.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 21:13:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Threaded hole in Chassis
Jim,
You got it right...ground strap.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
>>
Just to the rear of the tang on the chassis where the clutch pipe connects
to its flexible pipe, there is a threaded hole (3/8 24tpi). What mounts
here? Is it for the engine ground strap? Or?
Thanks for the help.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
<<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 20:19:20 -0500
Subject: Threaded hole in Chassis
Thanks for the immediate and well informed help!
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 21:29:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Choke cable
Keith,
For special tools, I use a modified 3/4" 12-point socket with a little
handle
welded on and a slot cut up one side to accomodate the cable. In terms of
slick tricks, the best recommendation I have is to put three or four washers
under the nut, which spaces it far enough out of the recess to make access
easy. There is plenty of thread on the cable to do this.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; "SCOT K.
PAULSON" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>; "Healeys Mailing List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2001 3:01 PM
Subject: Re: Choke cable
>
> > I had the same problem and it was caused by the whole assembly loosening
> up
> > in the dashboard. Everything was turning. Tightened the nut on the
back
> of
> > the dash. Problem solved. Be advised, however, that it is a bear to
get
> > to. The nut is recessed and partially behind a piece of sheetmetal - on
> my
> > car anyway.
> >
> > Len. 1967 BJ8
>
> Anyone have a slick trick or tool for getting to this nut?
>
> Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 22:46:16 -0500
Subject: no Healey content, but worth a look
> > GO BUD!!!
> >
> > How Budweiser handles those who laughed at those who died on 11 Sept 01
> >
> >
> > Thought you'd like to know what happened in a town north of Bakersfield
> > California. After you finish reading this, please forward this story on
to
> >
> > others so that our nation and around the world will know about those who
> > laughed when they found out about the tragic events in New York, PA and
> > the
> > Pentagon.
> >
> > September 11th, a Budweiser employee was making a delivery to a
> > convenience
> > store in a town called McFarland. He knew of the tragedy that had
> > occurred
> > in New York. He entered the business to find two Arabs whooping and
> > hollering and really cheering it up. It was obvious they were elated
with
> > what had happened earlier.
> >
> > The Budweiser employee went to his truck, called his boss and told
> > him of the very upsetting event. He didn't feel he could be in that
store
> > with those horrible people.
> >
> > His boss told him, "Do you think you could go in there long enough to
pull
> >
> > every Budweiser product and item our beverage company sells there? We'll
> > never deliver to them again."
> >
> > The employee walked in, and proceeded to pull every single product his
> > beverage company provided and left with an incredible grin on his face.
> > He
> > told them never to bother and call for a delivery again.
> >
> > Budweiser happens to be the beer of choice for that community.
> >
> > Just letting you all know how Kern County handles this situation!!
> >
> > Pass this along.
> >
> > America needs to know that we're all working together.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 23:27:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Choke cable
Doug,
And do you use the same approach for snugging up the nuts on the BJ8 turn
signal indicators on the dash?
Keith
> Keith,
> For special tools, I use a modified 3/4" 12-point socket with a little
> handle
> welded on and a slot cut up one side to accomodate the cable. In terms of
> slick tricks, the best recommendation I have is to put three or four
washers
> under the nut, which spaces it far enough out of the recess to make access
> easy. There is plenty of thread on the cable to do this.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 21:51:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Update to Healey 100 Site
Larry
That polished aluminum Healey is breathtaking, no matter how many times I see
it.
Ron Rader
Larry Varley wrote:
> Hello All
> The Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site has just been updated, with some
> new images of the restoration of Blair Harbers #24. As usual a link can
> be found at the bottom of the index page below.
> Regards
> Larry Varley
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 22:45:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Frame work
Sorry, I don't have the pics, but I have some experience on the other questions.
There was some type of a mastic material used originally (very sparingly from
what I've seen.) so I went to an automate paint supplier and bought some seam
sealer. It comes in a tube like any other good caulking material and costs about
$7 a tube. I think I used two tubes. I put it on fairly heavily then forced it
into the cracks with my finger.
As for sheet metal I think 18 ga. is too heavy. It is more like 22 ga. Maybe you
could find a sample to take along when you go looking for it. Try any metal
supplier for the material. You could use old body parts but I think it only
increases the amount of work. You end up having to try to straighten the pieces
before you can work with them.
Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
Heard wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
> I'm getting started on the frame work on my '60 BT7 and could use some help.
> I have the fairly common SETIA model (Somebody Else Took It Apart) so there
> are going to be many details of which I have no knowledge since I have never
> seen them. Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
> 1. Does anyone have a good picture of the way the rocker meets the hinge
> pillar?
> 2. I notice that the floors are spot welded to the frame and outriggers.
> There would have to be some sort of sealing material between these welds to
> keep out the water. On my car in several places, it appears that there is
> some sort of caulking, epoxy or or other filler. What is this stuff, where
> do I get it, and how is it applied?
> 3. Where is a good place to get some body panel material like 18Ga to use
> for patches? Do I go to a junkyard and buy a hood from and old Caddy or
> what?
>
> Thanks,
> Heard
> '60 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Warrenberg at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 19:46:52 EDT
Subject: Doozy of a problem
Friends on the list,
Went on a 20 mile jaunt in my 61 BT7 to attend the grand opening of a new
restoration shop here in Santa Fe. When I took the exit off the highway I
could not get my car out of 4th gear. There were 3 Healeys there already
(Phil Coombs as well) and several knowledgeable car people. No one had a
clue. Tried rocking it to no avail. Managed to drive it home (only had to
stop twice) in fourth. Tried a few times on the way back to get it out. No
luck Could feel a click of sorts and thats about it. Transmission was
rebuilt by Norman Nock less than 2000 miles ago so I am confident it is in
good shape. Overdrive worked fine on the way back. Thoughts?????
Thanks,
Warren Berg
60 and 61 BT7's, 63 TR4, 71 280 SL, 90 300ZX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 17:29:07 -0700
Subject: FW: 1940 Austin Bantum
Hello all,
I received the following email regarding an "Austin Bantum". I haven't a
clue about this, but if you can help, please email Footer@prodigy.net with
info.
Thanks!
Brad Weldon
Webmaster, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://healey.org/
-----Original Message-----
From: FooteBasquez@aol.com [mailto:FooteBasquez@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2001 11:00 AM
To: webmaster@healey.org
Subject: 1940 Austin Bantum
Dear Sirs
I am looking for information on a car I found. The SS# plate says Austin
Healey. Hub caps show Bantum, My problem is I have been searching for
information on this car and haven`t even been able to find anything that
looks like this car.I haven`t even been able to find anything as to weather
there was a Austin Bantum.Could you give me any idea as to where I might be
able to find any information on a car like this,if it did exist.and what one
would look like? This car I have is in unbelievable shape,and I need to find
out something about it.I have found hundreds of pics of Austins on the net
but not one of them had the fat fenders like this car.It has a basically
round back on it. It is a convertable,can you help before this thing drives
me nuts? Thank You Roy Foote Sr.
PS Please e-mail me at Footer@prodigy.net if you might be able to help me
with any information on this car.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 17:31:09 -0700
Subject: FW: AE Motor Parts address
Hello all,
I received the following email regarding an "oil ring for an AE 177-31
piston". I haven't a clue about this, but if you can help, please email
marcelr@swcp.com with info.
Thanks!
Brad Weldon
Webmaster, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://healey.org/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marcel Reynolds [mailto:marcelr@swcp.com]
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 2:50 PM
> To: webmaster@healey.org
> Subject: AE Motor Parts address
>
>
> I am having difficulty finding a single oil ring for an AE 177-31
> piston.I was referred to the manufacturer but I cannot find an address
> for AE Motor Parts, which I believe is a subsidiary of Federal Mogul. I
> would appreciate tour help.--Marcel Reynolds
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 20:41:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Doozy of a problem
i would guess the brass shifter fork is broken.
Warrenberg@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Friends on the list,
>
> Went on a 20 mile jaunt in my 61 BT7 to attend the grand opening of a new
> restoration shop here in Santa Fe. When I took the exit off the highway I
> could not get my car out of 4th gear. There were 3 Healeys there already
> (Phil Coombs as well) and several knowledgeable car people. No one had a
> clue. Tried rocking it to no avail. Managed to drive it home (only had to
> stop twice) in fourth. Tried a few times on the way back to get it out. No
> luck Could feel a click of sorts and thats about it. Transmission was
> rebuilt by Norman Nock less than 2000 miles ago so I am confident it is in
> good shape. Overdrive worked fine on the way back. Thoughts?????
>
> Thanks,
> Warren Berg
> 60 and 61 BT7's, 63 TR4, 71 280 SL, 90 300ZX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 22:20:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Shroud removal
Don't forget the rivets on the inside of the engine bay. Bill
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 23:29:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Frame work
22 gauge is too light. Would use 18 if in flat sheets, it would be much
trouble to try ti recontour as Bill pointed out. Otherwise, I would not use
anything lighter than 20 gauge.
My .02
Keith
> As for sheet metal I think 18 ga. is too heavy. It is more like 22 ga.
Maybe you
> could find a sample to take along when you go looking for it. Try any
metal
> supplier for the material. You could use old body parts but I think it
only
> increases the amount of work. You end up having to try to straighten the
pieces
> before you can work with them.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Bill Lawrence
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 07:44:36 -0700
Subject: Fw: Budweiser Pulled all Its Product from the Shelves of a
Budweiser Pulled all Its Product from the Shelves of a Convenience Store =
Where There was Celebration of the Terrorist Attacks
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Hank Hallmark=20
To: kirk kvam=20
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2001 12:56 PM
Subject: Budweiser Pulled all Its Product from the Shelves of a =
Convenience Store Where=20
=20
=20
View Stories by Subject
=20
=20
Search=20
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Budweiser Pulled all Its Product from the Shelves of a Convenience =
Store Where There was Celebration of the Terrorist Attacks-Fiction!
=20
=20
Summary of eRumor:
A Budweiser driver delivering beer to a convenience =
store in McFarland, California, walked in to find Arabs in the store =
celebrating the terrorist attacks on America. The driver called his =
boss and was told to remove all the Budweiser products from the store =
and to tell them they'd never be delivered Bud products again.=20
=20
=20
The Truth:
There have been numerous attempts to validate this =
story, but with no success. A spokesperson for Budweiser says the =
company has investigated it and not found any evidence that it is true.
TruthOrFiction.com has received isolated reports of =
similar incidents from other parts of the country, but they seem to be =
localized versions of the same eRumor.=20
=20
=20
A real example of the story as it has been circulated:=20
How Budweiser handles those who laughed at those who died =
on 11 Sept 01 =20
Thought you'd like to know what happened in a town north of =
Bakersfield California.=20
After you finish reading this, please forward this story on =
to others so that our nation and around the world will know about =
those who laughed when they found out about the tragic events in New =
York, PA and the Pentagon.=20
September 11th, a Budweiser employee was making a delivery =
to a convenience store in a town called McFarland. He knew of the =
tragedy that had occurred in New York. He entered the business to find =
two Arabs whooping and hollering and really cheering it up. It was =
obvious they were elated with what had happened earlier.=20
The Budweiser employee went to his truck, called his boss =
and told him of the very upsetting event. He didn't feel he could be =
in that store with those horrible people. His boss told him, "Do you =
think you could go in there long enough to pull every Budweiser product =
and item our beverage company sells there? We'll never deliver to them =
again." =20
The employee walked in, proceeded to pull every single =
product his beverage company provided and left with an incredible grin =
on his face. He told them never to bother and call for a delivery =
again.
Budweiser happens to be the beer of choice for that =
community.=20
Just letting you all know how Kern County handles this =
situation!! Pass this along. America needs to know that we're all =
working together.
=20
=20
=20
Copyright =A9 2001 TruthOrFiction.com Site Notice=20
=20
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From davegodlewski at att.net
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 17:35:58 +0000
Subject: Modern AM/FM/CD Installation
Listers,
I am contemplating installing a modern sound system in
my BJ-7. I want it to be as unubtrusive as possible in
order to mantain the vintage look of the Healey and to
have some measure of security against theft. Since I do
not have the console-mount option of the BJ-8, I was
wondering what others have done in this regard. Also,
where do people mount the speakers?
My thoughts are leaning towards some type of trunk-
mounted unit with a remote-control that could be taken
with you when you leave the car. Has anybody heard of
such a unit, I seem to remember one made by Blaupunkt in
the '80s. Another option would be a "Walkman" type
portable, that could plug into an amplified speaker
system. That way, you could just unplug it and go,
leaving nothing but the speakers in the car.
Dave Godlewski
BJ-7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From phil at lesliecompanies.com (Phillip W. Leslie)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 14:42:05 -0500
Subject: Posidriv screwdrivers
Does anyone know where to buy Posidriv screwdrivers?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 16:13:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Posidriv screwdrivers
Phillip:
Try British Tools and Fasteners:
http://www.worldmall.net/machine_tool_parts/index.html
Cheers,
John Cope
62BT7 Mark II
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phillip W. Leslie" <phil@lesliecompanies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2001 3:42 PM
Subject: Posidriv screwdrivers
>
> Does anyone know where to buy Posidriv screwdrivers?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 16:22:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Posidriv screwdrivers
BTW the name is spelled with a Z pozidriv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phillip W. Leslie" <phil@lesliecompanies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2001 3:42 PM
Subject: Posidriv screwdrivers
>
> Does anyone know where to buy Posidriv screwdrivers?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 16:23:02 -0400
Subject: Fw: Posidriv screwdrivers
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Sims" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Phillip W. Leslie" <phil@lesliecompanies.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2001 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: Posidriv screwdrivers
> I got mine from McMaster-Carr Supply Company
>
> 473 Ridge Road
> Dayton, NJ 08810-0317
>
> 732-329-3200
>
> URL www.mcmaster.com
>
> You can spend all day searching through their very exensive online
catalog.
> Or, you can order by their part number --
>
> #4 point is their number 5683A54
>
> #3 point is their number 5682A53
>
> #2 point is their number 5682A52
>
> #1 point is their number 5682A51
>
> The whole bunch will cost you around $25 including tax and shipping.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phillip W. Leslie" <phil@lesliecompanies.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2001 3:42 PM
> Subject: Posidriv screwdrivers
>
>
> >
> > Does anyone know where to buy Posidriv screwdrivers?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 16:53:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Posidriv screwdrivers
your area Snap-on guy should have them. Check with some of the auto repair
shops in your area. They must get visitis from the Snap-On guy. By rhe
way, not cheap!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 18:36:43 -0400
Subject: re pozidrive screwdrivers
I got mine from Snap on (already mentioned) but what I would like to add is
that they also have pozidrive shafts of different lenghts and sizes that
plug into universal type handles. One of my favs is a 1/4 in drive ratchet
that allows good solid torque . This is all important because those pozi
headed sons o guns are getting harder and harder to buy new! Also they
have pozi drive heads with anti cam out ( tips with little serrated line to
help grip)
Anyway good luck , get the right tool for the job and use plenty of
penetrant / rust buster and be patient with the stubborn ones. O yeah...
Snap On also has a variety of neat cut-off tools if you get stuck real bad!
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JRLNJ at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:54:04 EDT
Subject: Austin Bantam
The correct spelling of this car's name is Austin Bantam. If you do an
internet search, you will easily find a wealth of information about it.
Briefly, it was built in America in the 1930's, under license from Austin of
England. The Bantams have different, more flamboyant bodywork than their
English cousins, but the same engines.
They are even smaller than Bugeye sprites, but their spiritual ancestors in
style and panache.
Try this site to begin: http://www.wmspear.com
Then go the Hemmings.com, to locate the American Bantam club.
Looks like a lot of fun, good luck with it.
Ray Lynch
BJ8, Bugeye, Bugeye
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 20:41:21 EDT
Subject: Healey stories
As a new owner (BJ8), I'm amazed and delighted at the attention the car
receives. Everyone has a "Healey story" to share with my wife and I. Usually
about a special time in their life relating to a Healey. This infrequent
freelance writer would like to start collecting these stories and perhaps put
them in an expanded article one of these days.
If you have one to share, please drop me a line via the net
(Coppifan@AOL.com) or mail to: Bill Eggert, 171 Riverton Place, Edgewater, MD
21037. Please include your location and type of car.
Thanks....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 21:25:29 -0400
Subject: Re:Heater Facia
Does anyone know of someone who restores the 100-6, early 3000 heater
facia lettering if the Bakelite is in perfect condition? Also, the
lettering on the knobs. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 21:05:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Re:Heater Facia
doug,
years ago before the push/pull knobs were available in reproduction, we use to
refurbish them with the architectural stick on letters and then shoot them with
clear. i believe 10 pt. helvetica was pretty close. you could probably do the
same on the control panel. for the life of me, i don't know why anyone would
want to go to all the trouble as good as the repro parts in this area are done.
different strokes for different folks !!
happy healeying,
jerry
dwflagg@juno.com wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know of someone who restores the 100-6, early 3000 heater
> facia lettering if the Bakelite is in perfect condition? Also, the
> lettering on the knobs. Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:15:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Modern AM/FM/CD Installation
Dave -
While I have a BJ8 (and I can't council you on where
to hide your radio) I can offer some advice on the
speakers.
I might suggest that you get Radio Shack's Minimus 77
speakers. They are for external use - and they can be
mounted in the foot wells down and out of view. I
think in your BJ7 you may even have the space to mount
them up and behind the dashboard.
The Minimus speakers are a little large, however, but
Radio Shack does have a couple smaller versions that
should work just as well.
My BJ8 interior looks 100% original, but the speakers
have excellent sound for most occasions.
In addition, I believe Polk makes a very compact 10 CD
disc changer that will fit in the pedal box on the
passenger side, essentially completely out of view but
accessable from inside the car. This changer is
available from JC Whitney.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- davegodlewski@att.net wrote:
>
> Listers,
> I am contemplating installing a modern sound system
> in
> my BJ-7. I want it to be as unubtrusive as possible
> in
> order to mantain the vintage look of the Healey and
> to
> have some measure of security against theft. Since I
> do
> not have the console-mount option of the BJ-8, I was
>
> wondering what others have done in this regard.
> Also,
> where do people mount the speakers?
>
> My thoughts are leaning towards some type of trunk-
> mounted unit with a remote-control that could be
> taken
> with you when you leave the car. Has anybody heard
> of
> such a unit, I seem to remember one made by
> Blaupunkt in
> the '80s. Another option would be a "Walkman" type
> portable, that could plug into an amplified speaker
> system. That way, you could just unplug it and go,
> leaving nothing but the speakers in the car.
>
> Dave Godlewski
> BJ-7
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:32:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey stories
Bill:
In the two plus years that I have owned by BJ8 I am sure I have met every person
in America who either owned a Healey or his roommate in college did. Since only
75,000 big Healeys were built I am astonished every time we leave the house by
how much attention the car now receives.
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey CA
COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
> As a new owner (BJ8), I'm amazed and delighted at the attention the car
> receives. Everyone has a "Healey story" to share with my wife and I. Usually
> about a special time in their life relating to a Healey. This infrequent
> freelance writer would like to start collecting these stories and perhaps put
> them in an expanded article one of these days.
> If you have one to share, please drop me a line via the net
> (Coppifan@AOL.com) or mail to: Bill Eggert, 171 Riverton Place, Edgewater, MD
> 21037. Please include your location and type of car.
> Thanks....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:44:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey stories
Ron -
Usually the claim of having owned a Healey prefaced
with the question "is that a '72?" or "nice MG" is a
dead giveaway! Usually the comment "Is that a kit
car?" isn't exactly appreciated by yours truly
either....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net> wrote:
>
> Bill:
> In the two plus years that I have owned by BJ8 I am
> sure I have met every person
> in America who either owned a Healey or his roommate
> in college did. Since only
> 75,000 big Healeys were built I am astonished every
> time we leave the house by
> how much attention the car now receives.
> Ron Rader
> Marina del Rey CA
>
> COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 23:25:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Modern AM/FM/CD Installation...mp3?
I've not yet installed a system in my current cars... but I noticed in my old
BJ7, the
area just over the feet in the passenger well (designed to hold the "other" hand
drive
gas, brake, and clutch pedal assembly) is a great echo chamber for a larger
speaker...
I installed one speaker there when I had my original car...(the days of mono
were
still
with us then... so one speaker was "enough"...)... but that speaker really
sounded
the base notes nicely... (unfortunately, when driving at speed, with the top
down, the
sound wasn't as good...)
My guess (using todays technologies) would be that a base/woofer installed in
that part of
the car would still be a good choice... one might even be able to wire an extra
amplifier
in that space without offending any of the foot room... however, since stereo
effect is so
"important" nowadays.. you probably need to install two of the tiny
mid-range/tweeter thingies
that people like Bose sell ... (you can get cheaper and lower quality ones from
Radio Shack
and other places... and the sound quality shouldn't be an issue in an open
convertible anyway.
Aside from the wonderous Healey engine noise, there will be plenty of highway
noise to
contend with... so cheaper is probably better.. but ... and here is probably the
critical part.
you need to mount the little boxes somewhere where they can "point" at your
head...
I'd guess a custom mounting could be done under the dash with a speaker face
plate mounted
in the padded dash part near the windscreen would be ideal... barring that,
perhaps in a door,
and barring that, perhaps on the rear deck just behind the seats....
in a 2 seater, you could probably mount the little speakers under the rear deck
just behind the
two seats.... in a 4 seater, you probably would need to go just behind the rear
seats... perhaps
mounted on the bottom of the little wood panel that folds forward when you wish
to have a "shelf"
instead of rear seats... (this might be a good spot for those who want to
preserve the originality of
the car... you just buy another wood rear seat panel, and mount the speakers on
the "spare" while
keeping the original "as-is"...
Last idea... has anyone tried one of those MP3 juke boxes?... I'd guess those
are
far superior to
carrying around a bunch of cd's and a cd player... you can load about 150 cds on
the juke box, and
then have its output feed an amplifier directly... this seems much more
practical
to me.. but I've not
played with one of those yet...The MP3 sound quality might not be "perfect"...
but it is most likely
more than adequate for sound in an open car... (kids seem to like MP3 just
sitting around with
headphones on, so the quality can't be all that much less than a straight CD)...
enough rambling.... I'm interested in other people's experience with speaker
placement and mp3 too...
davegodlewski@att.net wrote:
> Listers,
> I am contemplating installing a modern sound system in
> my BJ-7. I want it to be as unubtrusive as possible in
> order to mantain the vintage look of the Healey and to
> have some measure of security against theft. Since I do
> not have the console-mount option of the BJ-8, I was
> wondering what others have done in this regard. Also,
> where do people mount the speakers?
>
> My thoughts are leaning towards some type of trunk-
> mounted unit with a remote-control that could be taken
> with you when you leave the car. Has anybody heard of
> such a unit, I seem to remember one made by Blaupunkt in
> the '80s. Another option would be a "Walkman" type
> portable, that could plug into an amplified speaker
.....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 20:42:27 -0700
Subject: BN1 title on Ebay
Any one own BN1C-145490? Someone is selling an 1977 Idaho title for this
car.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1021700160
George Castleberry
1954 BN1-L/157155
AHCUSA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 21:41:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Budweiser Deliveryman
The Budweiser deliveryman story has gone coast-to-coast I see.
I live in Visalia, about 70 miles north of Bakersfield. The tale
started with a story spreading of a Budweiser driver observing an Arab
moping the floor of his Tulare, California, mini-mart about 10 miles
south of here with an American flag, and the driver pulling all the
Budweiser products. Never happened.
Another local story had several Arab shopkeepers dancing with glee in a
Farmersville, California, market about 10 miles east of here. Never
happened.
The stories seem to have merged . . .
The local Visalia Times-Delta newspaper ran a long article on the
alleged events . . . tracing the flag mopping from a lady in a Visalia
jewelry store who reported it to the newspaper through her source a
patrolman at the local California Highway Patrol office who heard it at
the morning briefing, through the CHP sergeant who said he heard it from
a Tulare Policeman. The trail ended at the Tulare Police Department who
refused to divulge who brought the story into their department. The
newspaper reporter spoke with the mini-mart owner who allegedly mopped
the floor with a flag . . . neither the market owner nor the Budweiser
supplier knew how the story got started.
When the Jewelry store lady was confronted with the hoax, her reply to
the local newspaper was, "Well, I still believe it happened."
Don't confuse me with the facts . . . I've already made up my mind.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeygal at cs.com
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 05:23:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey stories
Hello all,
The question I usually get is "do you want to sell your car?" - probably
because of the way that it looks (daily driver) and the way that I look
(female)...
Healeygal
P.S. I'd sell my house first.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 06:15:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey stories
COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
<< As a new owner (BJ8), I'm amazed and delighted at the attention the car
receives. Everyone has a "Healey story" to share with my wife and I.
Usually about a special time in their life relating to a Healey. This
infrequent freelance writer would like to start collecting these stories and
perhaps put them in an expanded article one of these days. If you have one
to share, please drop me a line via the net (Coppifan@AOL.com) or mail to:
Bill Eggert, 171 Riverton Place, Edgewater, MD 21037. Please include your
location and type of car. Thanks... >>
I've observed that over the years it seems like about one in every three
people you meet while driving a Healey reports having owned one themselves.
With about 73,000 big Healeys produced and something on the order of 80
percent of those exported to the USA, and with a USA population averaging
maybe 250,000,000 over the research period, I therefore conclude that the
average big Healey has had 4,280.8 owners, and has changed hands, on
average, twice per week. Remarkable.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 07:25:48 -0600
Subject: Re: pozidriv screwdrivers
Philip;
If you are in the U.S., you can get them from a Snap-On Tool dealer. Got
mine there.
Cheers.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From phil at lesliecompanies.com (Phillip W. Leslie)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 09:27:16 -0500
Subject: Pozidriv Screwdrivers
Thanks to all for the help on Pozidriv screwdrivers (including how to spell
it!). What a great source of info this is!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 07:56:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Budweiser Deliveryman--Non Healey Content
The Budweiser Deliveryman Story has the main earmark of an Urban Legend /
Internet Hoax--it's too good to be true.
About.com has extensive internet hoax/urban legend information and is a good
place to check these things out before passing them on.
They didn't have this one yet as of Sunday night 10/21, though.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 12:48:23 -0400
Subject: RE: Healey stories
Based on my experiences, I am certain that there must have been
at least twice that many Healeys built. :-)
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ron Rader
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2001 10:33 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Healey stories
Bill:
In the two plus years that I have owned by BJ8 I am sure I have met every
person
in America who either owned a Healey or his roommate in college did. Since
only
75,000 big Healeys were built I am astonished every time we leave the house
by
how much attention the car now receives.
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey CA
COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
> As a new owner (BJ8), I'm amazed and delighted at the attention the car
> receives. Everyone has a "Healey story" to share with my wife and I.
Usually
> about a special time in their life relating to a Healey. This infrequent
> freelance writer would like to start collecting these stories and perhaps
put
> them in an expanded article one of these days.
> If you have one to share, please drop me a line via the net
> (Coppifan@AOL.com) or mail to: Bill Eggert, 171 Riverton Place, Edgewater,
MD
> 21037. Please include your location and type of car.
> Thanks....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 12:11:52 -0500
Subject: Healey Stories
Hi gang:
While visiting Palm Desert last March, I was informed by my daughter that a
man down the steet on the corner had an Austin Healey.
Grandpa took granddaughter for a walk and casually mentioned to the man that
I understood he had an Austin Healey.
It wasn't his. A DENTIST friend of his owned it. He did, however, show me
his Bentley that he is restoring. Beautiful car.
Anyone on the list know who this DENTIST is?
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 12:43:56 -0500
Subject: No LBC.. just funny..
Thought you all might get a kick out of this.. I though it was pretty
funny..
<<talibansingles[1].jpg>>
Steve
61 BN7
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
talibansingles[1].jpg]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:10:12 EDT
Subject: Re: No LBC.. just funny..(attacments)
The list, clearly, does not allow attachments.
please check all posts for technical issues.
If you must reference pictures, ask for interested parties email addresses or
refer to URL, such as:
The Taliban Dating stuff can be seen at:
http://206.112.97.70/focus/fr/550682/posts?page=1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:12:01 -0400
Subject: Re: No LBC.. just funny..
you aright, pretty funny!!!!!
"Kocik, Stephen W" wrote:
> Thought you all might get a kick out of this.. I though it was pretty
> funny..
>
> <<talibansingles[1].jpg>>
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
>talibansingles[1].jpg]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:37:01 -0400
Subject: Re; Re; Budweiser
Thank you Peter.... I was biting my tongue, but I'm glad you didn't.
Back to Healeys.
Stephen, BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bighealey3k at netscape.net (Larry Wendland)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:51:42 -0400
Subject: Re; Re; Budweiser
Phil, Go to www.google.com and search pozidriv. I got a large number of hits
relating to pozidriv. One of them was WIHA Quality Tools in Monticello, MN and
they listed the 1/4 inch insert bits, all sizes, at 60 cents each. They also
had a hole list of pozidriv tools. Don't know if there is a minimum quantiy to
order.
Larry '67 BJ8
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:56:14 -0400
Subject: RE: Healey stories
When I was in college driving my Healey (80's)I was approached by
innumerable men in their 30s & 40's that told me they used to own a Healey
and had sold it for various reasons, and that it was their biggest mistake.
Taking that advice, when I moved across the country and had no way to bring
the Healey along, I chose to store it for 5 years instead of selling it. I
brought it out when I had a garage to store it in. Now, when people ask me
what it is worth (or will be worth when this restoration is completed) I
tell them it doesn't matter -- I'm never selling.
Some things are priceless. for the rest there's MasterCard! (don't I know
that :0 !!
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bighealey3k at netscape.net (Larry Wendland)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:59:47 -0400
Subject: POZIDRIV
Phil, Go to www.google.com and search pozidriv. I got a large number of hits
relating to
pozidriv. One of them was WIHA Quality Tools in Monticello, MN and they
listed the 1/4 inch
insert bits, all sizes, at 60 cents each. They also had a whole list of
pozidriv tools.
Don't know if there is a minimum quantity to order.
Larry '67 BJ8
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred "Ooman" <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 12:03:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: POZIDRIV
I currently have primary car insurance on my 67 3000 through AAA. Recently I
finally got another primary vehicle so Im looking to switch the BJ8 back to
collectors car insurance.
In shopping around I came across a broker who offers a plan underwritten by
CGU, I looked them up and they are a legit company, but I was wondering if
anyone has had any dealings with this concern? If so I would appreciate
hearing of your experiences.
BTW the policy was for $20K replacement, 0 deductible and 300K injury and $500K
liability, premium is about $160. No mileage restriction and he says the only
other limitations are locked garage at home and no daily to and from work.
Ill check out the details when I receive a preliminary policy.
Regards.
==
Fred
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stella67 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 15:49:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Modern AM/FM/CD Installation...mp3?
In my BJ8 I was able to install an amp six speakers and a modern radio/tape
unit will out many people being able to tell it was installed. First,
installed two headlight buckets behind the trim and into the hinge support
area. With these welded into place the fenders fit perfectly and the trim
hide the speakers. The first one of these I installed ontop of the trim but
they are still not viable. In the space above your fee inthe the foot well
on the right side, I insulated it well and mounted an amp on a piece of
plywood. That was mounted in the space. Other than the wires routing into
the amp space you would not know there was anything there. I carefully
installed 2 tweeters and 2 woofers behind the rear set back area. When the
seatback is up you cannot tell they are there. I used some foam speaker cups
to help protect the speakers. Finally, I found a radio that had adjustable
knob space settings. With a small file I worked the original speaker holes
enough to accept the modern radio set up. You can crank the radio up load
enough without harming the rest of the system to listen comfortably at 65mph,
and still more to hear at 90 mph. The system was working great when I sold
the car.
I am still working on an arrangement for my BN7 and BT7 but both will have
the speaker mounted in the footwell using headlight buckets. I have not MP3
experience but I am looking at them for my next project.
Thanks
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 16:02:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Modern AM/FM/CD Installation
Dave,
Victoria British also lists a remote AM/FM receiver and 10 disc CD changer in
their catalogue. They are pricey but keeping them from getting stolen might
be worth the up front cost. The receiver and changer can be mounted in the
trunk and the control head has a removable face and remote control...night be
worth checking out...
Dave D.
'59 BT 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 18:00:34 -0500
Subject: Re: No LBC.. just funny..(attacments)
<<The list, clearly, does not allow attachments.
>>
Only IF you are SMART enough to read the DIRECTIONS which come with your
subscription!!!
Doh!!
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike Wedeln" <rotary at iname.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 07:23:17 +0800
Subject: Budweiser
Guys,
I saw the talk about the urban legend thing around this pulling of all
the product off the shelf, well I'm here to tell you it's true. I work for the
Budweiser brewery in Merrimack, NH and a notice was posted in our employee
cafeteria telling us that it was true!
Mike W
--
_______________________________________________
Talk More, Pay Less with Net2Phone Direct(R), up to 1500 minutes free!
http://www.net2phone.com/cgi-bin/link.cgi?143
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 19:49:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Budweiser
Mike:
It's hard to argue with primary source material. And just when my faith in
urban legends was waning.
Cheers,
John Cope
62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Wedeln" <rotary@iname.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 7:23 PM
Subject: Budweiser
>
> Guys,
>
> I saw the talk about the urban legend thing around this pulling of
all the product off the shelf, well I'm here to tell you it's true. I work
for the Budweiser brewery in Merrimack, NH and a notice was posted in our
employee cafeteria telling us that it was true!
>
> Mike W
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 19:51:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Budweiser
Sure, just like "there is tequila in Tequiza!"
Mike Wedeln wrote:
> Guys,
>
> I saw the talk about the urban legend thing around this pulling of all
>the product off the shelf, well I'm here to tell you it's true. I work for
>the Budweiser brewery in Merrimack, NH and a notice was posted in our
>employee cafeteria telling us that it was true!
>
> Mike W
> --
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 20:01:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Budweiser
being a natural skeptic, I for one, would like to see a copy.
John Sims, BN6
Abrdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Wedeln" <rotary@iname.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 7:23 PM
Subject: Budweiser
>
> Guys,
>
> I saw the talk about the urban legend thing around this pulling of
all the product off the shelf, well I'm here to tell you it's true. I work
for the Budweiser brewery in Merrimack, NH and a notice was posted in our
employee cafeteria telling us that it was true!
>
> Mike W
> --
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 19:57:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Budweiser
<<I work for the Budweiser brewery in Merrimack, NH and a notice was posted
in our employee cafeteria telling us that it was true!
>>
And "EVERYTHING" thing in second (or later) edition printed matter IS
"true", right Mike??
Nah.
(and yes, Listers, I did VERIFY that A-B has a brewery in Merrimack!!)
Ed
(and a "beer" with RICE in it??? NAH)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 20:18:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Budweiser
What are you people nuts? Arguing with a guy that could really bring the
beer? I believe you Mike, ol' BUD!
Mark
Nashville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Wedeln" <rotary@iname.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 6:23 PM
Subject: Budweiser
:
: Guys,
:
: I saw the talk about the urban legend thing around this pulling of
all the product off the shelf, well I'm here to tell you it's true. I work
for the Budweiser brewery in Merrimack, NH and a notice was posted in our
employee cafeteria telling us that it was true!
:
: Mike W
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 21:53:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Budweiser
You know, when I had that beer analyzed a few years ago, the report I got back
was that my horse had diabetes.
Mark Endicott wrote:
> What are you people nuts? Arguing with a guy that could really bring the
> beer? I believe you Mike, ol' BUD!
>
> Mark
> Nashville
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Wedeln" <rotary@iname.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 6:23 PM
> Subject: Budweiser
>
> :
> : Guys,
> :
> : I saw the talk about the urban legend thing around this pulling of
> all the product off the shelf, well I'm here to tell you it's true. I work
> for the Budweiser brewery in Merrimack, NH and a notice was posted in our
> employee cafeteria telling us that it was true!
> :
> : Mike W
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 20:56:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Budweiser
Your poor horse must have been drinking "Miller"!
Mark
Nashville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Mark Endicott" <mendicott@home.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 9:53 PM
Subject: Re: Budweiser
: You know, when I had that beer analyzed a few years ago, the report I got
back
: was that my horse had diabetes.
:
: Mark Endicott wrote:
:
: > What are you people nuts? Arguing with a guy that could really bring
the
: > beer? I believe you Mike, ol' BUD!
: >
: > Mark
: > Nashville
: >
: > ----- Original Message -----
: > From: "Mike Wedeln" <rotary@iname.com>
: > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
: > Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 6:23 PM
: > Subject: Budweiser
: >
: > :
: > : Guys,
: > :
: > : I saw the talk about the urban legend thing around this pulling
of
: > all the product off the shelf, well I'm here to tell you it's true. I
work
: > for the Budweiser brewery in Merrimack, NH and a notice was posted in
our
: > employee cafeteria telling us that it was true!
: > :
: > : Mike W
: >
:
:
:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 22:53:03 EDT
Subject: Check out eBay Motors item 596941241 (Ends Oct-25-01 19:00:41
There is a 1960 BT 7 L on e-bay showing at $8400...might be worth watching
if someone is interested. Car is located in Springfield, MO. Item #
596941241 Apparently a very early car, HBT7L either 361 or 491...both
numbers listed.
Just info...I have no knowlege or interest, just looked good...maybe.
Dave D.
'59 BT 7L 795
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 23:32:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Budweiser
In a message dated 10/22/01 5:09:49 PM, healey6@optonline.net writes:
<<
being a natural skeptic, I for one, would like to see a copy.
John Sims, BN6
Abrdeen, NJ >>
I think I'd have to see a copy of the memo, order invoice, or whatever piece
of paper it took to tell the plant to cancel the guy's account and no longer
ship him any beer.
Nevertheless, it made a good story, and I'm sure Budweiser was perfectly
happy to have their name copied across the internet in a favorable,
pro-American light.
Cheers anyway.
Gary
But let me tell you the one about the spiders in the girl's hairdo...
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 21:18:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Insurance
Fred -
You might try:
http://www.hagerty.com/
Their service and rates are excellent.
Also, you might try State Farm. I know prices vary
from agent to agent, but my agent's rates are super
cheap, he gives me great service, and has yet to bitch
about a single claim in 15 years. The great thing is
I only have two cars - BJ8 and BN1 - but they are
fully covered by State Farm.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Fred Ooman <KingPin@cosmo.com> wrote:
>
> I currently have primary car insurance on my 67
> 3000 through AAA. Recently I finally got another
> primary vehicle so Im looking to switch the BJ8
> back to collectors car insurance.
>
> In shopping around I came across a broker who offers
> a plan underwritten by CGU, I looked them up and
> they are a legit company, but I was wondering if
> anyone has had any dealings with this concern? If
> so I would appreciate hearing of your experiences.
>
> BTW the policy was for $20K replacement, 0
> deductible and 300K injury and $500K liability,
> premium is about $160. No mileage restriction and
> he says the only other limitations are locked garage
> at home and no daily to and from work. Ill check
> out the details when I receive a preliminary policy.
>
> Regards.
>
> ==
> Fred
>
> '67 BJ8
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 23:23:14 -0500
Subject: Trouble Starting
I have been having trouble getting my '63 bj7 to start. Occasionally
(aka at the worst times) the engine will act like it is trying to turn
over but won't. But if I wait a while (ten minutes or so) without
trying and then try again it will sputter to life. It is almost like
waiting lets the car recharge itself. I just bought a new battery so
that shouldn't be it. This ever happen to anyone? Also, does anyone
have a good way to secure the muffler. The clamp that the previous
owner was using broke and the only thing I could find to replace it
makes it hang a little too low. Thanks for the help.
Win Graham
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeygal at cs.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 01:50:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey stories
brister@hal-pc.org wrote:
>Last evening, following church I sat while a few teenagers looked it over,
asked >questions and were just enthralled.
I get the positive comments, too and really enjoy them, especially since the
car, to me, looks like it's about 10 years overdue for a paint job. It's the
ones who act like they'd be doing me a big favor by taking it off my hands
for $1,000 or so that bug me, especially when I know it's gotta be worth at
least $2,000, right?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 07:02:15 -0500
Subject: Budweiser
I can say one thing about this legend. Those arabs that ran the store
probably just went out back and gathered their Camel Piss and put it on the
shelf.
Same beer, same foamy head.
Give me a Miller Lite any time.
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 09:13:51 -0400
Subject: RE: Muffler hangers (was Trouble Starting)
Win,
If you mean the muffler hangers, get the original style from
one of the usual suppliers (Moss, VB, ...). These are basically
a block of rubber about 1 1/2" thick with two metal plates
bonded to them. There should be three of them on the BJ7:
- one attached to the front of the muffler and bolted through
the floor panel under the driver's right foot.
- one attached to the tail pipe, just behind the muffler and
bolted to a fitting on the frame.
- one attached about half way back on the tail pipe and bolted
to a fitting on the frame.
The diagram in the Moss catalog shows what these hangers look like
and where they go.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Win Graham
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2001 12:23 AM
To: Healey Chat Group
Subject: Trouble Starting
I have been having trouble getting my '63 bj7 to start. Occasionally
(aka at the worst times) the engine will act like it is trying to turn
over but won't. But if I wait a while (ten minutes or so) without
trying and then try again it will sputter to life. It is almost like
waiting lets the car recharge itself. I just bought a new battery so
that shouldn't be it. This ever happen to anyone? Also, does anyone
have a good way to secure the muffler. The clamp that the previous
owner was using broke and the only thing I could find to replace it
makes it hang a little too low. Thanks for the help.
Win Graham
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at erols.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 02:57:38 -0400
Subject: brake booster
Thanks to Don and others who replied to my pre start up oiling question. Went
to the excellent NTAHC.org site and in addition to the oiling tech tip found a
timely blurb on brake boosters.I just rebuilt mine and re installed - but two
things still bothered me, both of which are covered in the article. The
diaphram does not slide back and forth easily enough : 1) foam piece under
leather seal too thick 2) coating on inside of vacuum cannister worn . Which
brings me to the point of all this rambling - called Sandstrom to get a can of
recommended 26A spray . A nice lady explained this was now 27A due to govt.
wanting all HCFCs out of the product and that the $12.25 can of spray will
cost an additional $26 to ship due to govt hazmat classifications !! Geez
...... the bureaucrats in Washington will never be able to protect us from our
enemies but they will make sure we are protected from ourselves. Thanks for
letting me vent.... Michael BJ8 Balto Md
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 10:07:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Trouble Starting
Win,
I would start out checking all electrical connections starting with the
battery cables and ending with the solenoid and starter including the ground
strap. Be sure all connections are free of corrosion, grease , etc. If your
battery cable gets hot, you may have excess resistance in the system. If
the problem not corrected with the above, I would pull the starter and have
it tested. Good luck!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 07:37:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Brake Boosters - New, Professionally Rebuilt, or DIY?
Yesterday I was on my club's annual fall folliage tour when I lost brake pedal.
Since no fluid
was
visibly leaking, I suspected that fluid was running into the brake booster can.
When I got
home, I confirmed this was in fact the case.
The options to remedy would seem to include:
1) Buy a brand new (non-original) Lockheed unit ($425)
2) Have the original unit rebuilt by a professional rebuilding service
($375-400), or
3) Buy a DIY kit from Moss ($80).
Several Healey parts suppliers have told me that the the new Lockheed unit
offers better
technology, and that the rebuilds are famous for not working out well and
thereby requiring lots
of "send backs" for re-work. Since the rebuild services get a hefty $300 over
and above the DIY
kits (~$80), I assume the process must be more difficult than one would
otherwise envision, or
they're anticipating attempting the rebuild process several times.
What insights/experiences can list participants provide?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From William Wagner <wcwagner at soltec.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 10:13:45 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Gold Healey Found
I found one of the rare Metallic Golden Beige Healeys this
morning. It was sitting in my garage. I received my Heritage certificate
yesterday. I had to sit down after I read it. Turns out my BJ8 is one of
the Metallic Golden Beige Healeys. Since the paint on the car isn't worth
saving, this morning I went down through the layers on one of the rear
fenders. Darned if I didn't find the original paint underneath a layer of
red and a layer of grey primer. Don't know why it would have been
repainted. It was red when I bought it in 1978 and everywhere I've ever
looked all I see is red paint. I've been getting ready to do a restoration
of it, but wasn't going to be very concerned about being as original as
possible. I guess I'll have to reconsider.
I do have a question. The trim colour is listed as: Red (Ambla).
Ambla is not a term that I've run across in my books. I may have missed
it though. What does the Ambla signify?
Thanks, Bill Wagner.
Bill Wagner
e-mail: wcwagner@soltec.net
H-BJ8-L/41475, Metallic Golden Beige
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 10:17:08 -0500
Subject: Weird! (No Healey Content, but interesting as hell!)
To see something really weird, close your e-mail program, open Microsoft
Word using Century Schoolbook 12 as your default font. Type in Q33NY (as
is) then highlight it. Now change your font size to 48. Now change your
chosen font from Century Schoolbook to Wingding and press enter.
Be amazed at what shows up. I was.
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at erols.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 04:20:18 -0400
Subject: brake boosters
John, Most cars seem to have the replacement servo installed - or so it
appears at the car shows . I am trying to keep my car original and since the
booster worked fine for 30 years , I dont think its a safety issue. If Dougs
info on Power Brake Exchange is up to date , then that would be the most
attractive option in my opinion. Good luck . Also , the servo was very
straightforward to rebuild -contact me off list if you want to discuss it in
more detail. Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 08:41:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake Boosters - New, Professionally Rebuilt, or DIY?
Rebuilds cost ~$237 at
Power Brake Exchange
260 Phelan Ave
San Jose, CA 95112
(408) 292-1305
Mine has worked flawlessly for over 2 years. I previously had one of the
well known "experts" make 3 attempts to repair it, and they bungled it each
time.
No financial interest, yada yada.
---------------------------
At 07:37 AM 10/23/2001, you wrote:
>Yesterday I was on my club's annual fall folliage tour when I lost brake
>pedal. Since no fluid
>was
>visibly leaking, I suspected that fluid was running into the brake booster
>can. When I got
>home, I confirmed this was in fact the case.
>
>The options to remedy would seem to include:
>1) Buy a brand new (non-original) Lockheed unit ($425)
>2) Have the original unit rebuilt by a professional rebuilding service
>($375-400), or
>3) Buy a DIY kit from Moss ($80).
>
>Several Healey parts suppliers have told me that the the new Lockheed unit
>offers better
>technology, and that the rebuilds are famous for not working out well and
>thereby requiring lots
>of "send backs" for re-work. Since the rebuild services get a hefty $300
>over and above the DIY
>kits (~$80), I assume the process must be more difficult than one would
>otherwise envision, or
>they're anticipating attempting the rebuild process several times.
>
>What insights/experiences can list participants provide?
>Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
>http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From William Wagner <wcwagner at soltec.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 11:03:42 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: What is Ambla? was Re: Gold Healey Found
Thanks to those who responded. It appears that the interior I
have in the car is the original non-leather material.
Bill Wagner.
Bill Wagner
e-mail: wcwagner@soltec.net
H-BJ8-L/41475, Metallic Golden Beige
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 12:04:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey stories
In a message dated 10/22/01 10:52:43 PM, Healeygal@cs.com writes:
<< I know it's gotta be worth at
least $2,000, right? >>
At least two grand. . . . NOT.
Cheers
gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 12:10:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Gold Healey Found
In a message dated 10/23/01 8:15:35 AM, wcwagner@soltec.net writes:
<< I do have a question. The trim colour is listed as: Red (Ambla).
Ambla is not a term that I've run across in my books. I may have missed
it though. What does the Ambla signify?
Thanks, Bill Wagner. >>
>From the Austin-Healey 100, 100 Six, 3000 Restoration Guide (Motorbooks,
1999) p. 167: "When the BJ8 convertibles were introduced, "Ambla" vinyl was
substituted for leathercloth on all interior panels. Ambla was a soft vinyl
material with a less-obvious grain pattern. On the seat pleats, the vinyl was
embossed with a square waffle pattern wsith vent holes punched in the
pattern."
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 12:16:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Weird! (No Healey Content, but interesting as hell!)
In a message dated 10/23/01 8:17:39 AM, donyarber@earthlink.net writes:
<< Be amazed at what shows up. I was.
Don
BN7 >>
Why would that surprise you? Wingdings has lots of symbols, and those are
pretty common ones. Amazes me that someone took the time to figure out the
conversion keycaps.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 12:32:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Gold Healey Found
<<wcwagner@soltec.net writes:> Don't know why it would have been repainted. >
> >
One of our locals bought a Golden Metallic Beige new and still owns it. It
was the last Healey sold in this area so he did not have a choice of colors.
He received two repaints under warranty because the paint kept flaking off.
Finally they agreed to paint the car white under warranty. Seems paint
adhesion was a common problem with the GMB.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 10:24:07 -0700
Subject: RE: Gold Healey Found
That is interesting information. When living in Ann Arbor a few years
ago, I worked on a golden metallic beige BJ8 that had also been
repainted white. Only the exterior had been repainted. I know little
about the history of the car except that the current owner was in the
Bay Area (Oakland) for business and saw it while jogging one morning. He
more or less bought it on the spot. I remember it was a very late BJ8 w/
octagon knockoffs.
Bill W.
> Subject: Re: Gold Healey Found
>
> <<wcwagner@soltec.net writes:> Don't know why it would have
> been repainted. >
> > >
>
> One of our locals bought a Golden Metallic Beige new and
> still owns it. It
> was the last Healey sold in this area so he did not have a
> choice of colors.
>
> He received two repaints under warranty because the paint
> kept flaking off.
> Finally they agreed to paint the car white under warranty.
> Seems paint
> adhesion was a common problem with the GMB.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 14:01:41 EDT
Subject: Re: brake booster
In a message dated 10/23/01 9:05:12 AM Central Daylight Time,
mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com writes:
<< A nice lady explained this was now 27A due to govt.
wanting all HCFCs out of the product and that the $12.25 can of spray will
cost an additional $26 to ship due to govt hazmat classifications !! Geez >>
May ask for them to ship UPS. They may be able to handle it.
Don
Glad you liked our site.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 15:45:18 -0400
Subject: Re;Brake Boosters - New, Professionally Rebuilt, or DIY?
There is another solution from PBR in Australia; definately cheaper
than the lockheed.
I have one that works fine, but there is a difference in pedal
pressure from the original.
Stephen, BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 15:39:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Muffler hangers (was Trouble Starting)
<< - one attached to the front of the muffler and bolted through
the floor panel under the driver's right foot >>
ah ha ! Your Healey has the same front muffler hanger that I had for one day,
the day thought I found a short cut.
..... Hung from the floorboard.
The proper spot is bolted to the front of the outrigger. Doesn't vibrate the
foot, but does call for some creative cursing to install that bugger.
2 or 3 socket extensions extending through the 2 downpipes seem to save one
of 2 or 3 nuckels ;-)
David Maxwell / Mrs. Peel
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 17:10:13 EDT
Subject: exhaust pipes
Can rusty exhaust pipes be painted to make them less obtrusive?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 17:16:35 EDT
Subject: Re: exhaust pipes
In a message dated 10/23/01 14:13:40, COPPIFAN@aol.com writes:
<< Can rusty exhaust pipes be painted to make them less obtrusive? >>
Barbeque paint works great and cures with heat.
Car parts stores also sell a heat treating black paint for tailpipes. Easy to
spray on when the pipes start looking tired.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 16:41:44 -0500
Subject: Re: exhaust pipes
>Can rusty exhaust pipes be painted to make them less obtrusive?
Best solution is 'Jet Hot' coating. You can find them on the web. They
have a special shipping arrangement with Fed Ex. Well worth the
cost. Night and day difference in the look under the bonnet. After you
have done it you will look with disdain on all other rusty exhaust systems
in cars.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 17:58:05 EDT
Subject: Re: exhaust pipes
In a message dated 10/23/01 5:43:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rjh.co@worldnet.att.net writes:
> Best solution is 'Jet Hot' coating
I had this done to my old exhaust headers 10K miles ago--still looks as nice
as the day they were shipped back and also cut down alot on the heat
radiation.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 16:41:57 -0600
Subject: New Engine
Greetings listers,
Just sharing a little excitement. Just got the engine back from the
rebuilder. New pistons (.030) rod and main bearings (.010) oil pump timing
chain and tensioner valves guides lifters and reconditioned cam etc. Just
painted it Moss's Healey green and it looks great. Maybe next year it will be
in the car.
Sid 65BJ827368
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 21:07:52 -0400
Subject: Another frame question
Hello Folks,
First a huge thanks to everyone who responded to my last frame question. I
bought some 18 guage and some 22 guage. The 22 seems about right for
patching wings and such, but not heavy enough for some internal braces. The
18 seems even a little heavier than even the existing braces although I will
probably use it anyway.
Now on to my next question.
On my BT7, the rear inner wheel wells where they meet the shut pillar have
been cut out by the PO. He made a pretty good pattern before doing this,
but I am having a little trouble understanding exactly how the parts in this
area go together. It appears that the inner wheel well extends down in
front of and to the bottom of the outer sill. There is a separate brace
about a 1/2" wide toward the interior of the car that extends from the top
of this inner well to the top of the sill and it is obvious that it was
welded to the top of the sill. It is also apparent that this brace was not
welded to the inner well as it has a series of holes drilled in it. It is
painted the color of the interior. What I can't seem to understand is ...
1. Is this brace fastened to the backside of the inner well in some manner?
Or are all of these holes for something else? In pictures of completed
cars, it appears that some trim goes between this brace and the inner well,
but I can't seem to find any pics of this area without all the trim covering
everything.
2. Does the inner wheel well have any sort of flange on it above the sill
and behind the shut pillar? If so, does the flange go toward the interior
or the exterior and how big is it?
If anyone can describe this area for me I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks.
Heard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 18:22:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Re;Brake Boosters - New, Professionally Rebuilt, or DIY?
Stephen -
I have one of the PBR units on my BJ8, and the pedal
is a bit stiff for daily driving, but probably a good
pressure for racing & rallying. I'm thinking of
actually going back to the original type as the feel
is just right for daily drivers.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Stephen Hutchings <hutching@the-wire.com> wrote:
>
> There is another solution from PBR in Australia;
> definately cheaper
> than the lockheed.
> I have one that works fine, but there is a
> difference in pedal
> pressure from the original.
> Stephen, BJ8
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 21:35:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey stories
Coopifan,
I take my 100-Six down the Hot Summer Nights Car Show in Danville, CA three
or four nights during the summer and I must get 10 to 15 such stories every
night. People love to reminisce about their involvement with the car.
Actually, hearing these stories is the best part of showing a Healey.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 21:44:38 EDT
Subject: Re: exhaust pipes
In a message dated 10/23/01 2:13:26 PM, COPPIFAN@aol.com writes:
<<
Can rusty exhaust pipes be painted to make them less obtrusive? >>
Can and should be -- we recommend a heat-resistant satin black (sort of as
original; they were painted when manufactured, to keep them from rusting
before they were mounted on the car, but the paint wasn't too great) over a
light coat of primer. Eastwood makes a good paint. Barbeque paint works too,
though it's a little less glossy than the satin black Eastwood paint.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 21:50:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey stories
I'll go you one better. It was through places like Walnut Creek, Concord,
Pittsburg, etc. that we had our rallies that started from Lake Merritt in
the early sixties in which I first fell in love with Healeys. Danville was a
spot on the road, can't remember if there was even a signal there, and San
Ramon didn't exist. Just a bunch of farms.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
Subject: Re: Healey stories
>
> Coopifan,
> I take my 100-Six down the Hot Summer Nights Car Show in Danville, CA
three
> or four nights during the summer and I must get 10 to 15 such stories
every
> night. People love to reminisce about their involvement with the car.
> Actually, hearing these stories is the best part of showing a Healey.
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 22:40:14 -0600
Subject: Heater valve
I had a frozen heater valve on the engine block. I disassembled the valve but
am not sure if the brass on brass valve should be lubricated with something.
It seems that I read that the brass fittings on rainbird impact sprinkler
units should not be lubed. Any thoughts or recommendations?
Sid 65BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 01:36:00 EDT
Subject: Re: exhaust pipes
In the past I have cleaned up exhaust headers (cast iron type) and sprayed
them with graphite spray...gives them a nice charcoal gray appearance and
lasted pretty good. You can also get some high temp paint and paint
them...would last longer but with all such projects you need to pull them and
clean them up real good...
Dave D.
59 BT 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 23:24:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Heater valve
Sid -
Oddly enough, I just worked on the exact same thing on
my '66 BJ8 just this last weekend. My suggestion to
you is to simply get some brasso and polish the
surfaces. I think the surface corrosion over time on
the stop cock and receptacle causes the valve to seat
over time.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- bronson <bron@rmci.net> wrote:
>
> I had a frozen heater valve on the engine block. I
> disassembled the valve but
> am not sure if the brass on brass valve should be
> lubricated with something.
> It seems that I read that the brass fittings on
> rainbird impact sprinkler
> units should not be lubed. Any thoughts or
> recommendations?
> Sid 65BJ8
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rogier van der Mast" <rvdm1 at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 09:10:19
Subject: Re: Gold Healey Found
Hello list,
I was wondering what is so sepcial about the golden beige healeys?
I ask this because a friend of mine recently sold his repainted golden beige
healey (repainted in BRG), but know for certain it was a special healey. It
was a completely restored BJ8 so it was fetching significantly more than I
can afford and BTW I am very happy with my BJ7 restoration project (RED,
originally Black). But as I already told, this healey was very special, as
it had alu fenders and disks at the rear. Sadly enough the healey went for
less than I would have thought it would go for, but still I would be very
keen to know what was so special about that car being golden beige (beleived
to be the original paint).
Rogier
Everytime I think of her, I picture myself looking at her fantastic body,
her tight fit and how damn good she is when she is hot! - Yes, I love my
Austin Healey!
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 03:34:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Gold Healey Found
Rogier -
As I understand it, golden beige was only offered for
the BJ8, and was only painted on a handful of cars.
My BJ8 is in fact one of those cars (i.e. white
chassis & two original fenders with the car were
golden beige). But does it make it special? Well, to
me... not particularly... but to others possibly, due
to the low numbers painted this color.
By the way... my car is painted black over silver with
an original styled beige interior - essentially
non-original, but it looks very original to novices
and looks great to me...!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Rogier van der Mast <rvdm1@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hello list,
> I was wondering what is so sepcial about the golden
> beige healeys?
> I ask this because a friend of mine recently sold
> his repainted golden beige
> healey (repainted in BRG), but know for certain it
> was a special healey. It
> was a completely restored BJ8 so it was fetching
> significantly more than I
> can afford and BTW I am very happy with my BJ7
> restoration project (RED,
> originally Black). But as I already told, this
> healey was very special, as
> it had alu fenders and disks at the rear. Sadly
> enough the healey went for
> less than I would have thought it would go for, but
> still I would be very
> keen to know what was so special about that car
> being golden beige (beleived
> to be the original paint).
>
> Rogier
>
> Everytime I think of her, I picture myself looking
> at her fantastic body,
> her tight fit and how damn good she is when she is
> hot! - Yes, I love my
> Austin Healey!
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gschwend" <gschwend at projektdesign.at>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 13:12:32 +0200
Subject: Looking for right hand tube axle for BJ8
Hello Healeyfriends!
I am looking for a right hand tube axle for an AH 3000 BJ8. The original
spare-part-number is BTC 372. This type was used frm the bodynumber 26.705
untill the end of production. Who has this spare for sale? Please contact me
by mail mailto:martin@gschwend.at or by phone: +43 (664) 308 70 48.
Visit my website and watch the process of restoration of my early Phase 1 as
well as a lot of Healey-informations. Go to www.gschwend.at, click "privat"
and log in (username = austin, password = healey).
Happy Healeying, Martin
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 08:42:10 EDT
Subject: tight fit..."I want that oil" (Hot Healey content!)
<< Everytime I think of her, I picture myself looking at her fantastic body,
her tight fit and how damn good she is when she is hot! - Yes, I love my
Austin Healey! >>
Rogier... "I want some of that oil that he'e using"
... actually, I've been using it in / on Mrs. Peel for years.
Don't let her idle any longer than necessary, David Maxwell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 05:45:28 -0700
Subject: OT: Computer Security
I just blundered upon a rather neat security tool. Norton has a
free check at
http://security1.norton.com/ (includes a Mac version).
Virus check also available.
If you run it be sure to look at "Result Details" in the Trojan
Horse category. Worthy it simply for the exposure to the names
of some of those nasties.
Two other sources I always recommend for security (but not Mac):
http://grc.com/default.htm (Gibson Research. Free check,
much info.)
http://www.zonelabs.com/ (Source of fine, free,
firewall: ZoneAlarm)
Regards,
Peter
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at erols.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 01:41:27 -0400
Subject: rainbird what
What the h**l is a " rainbird impact sprinkler unit " ? MShepard 67BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 08:54:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Gold Healey Found
Rogier: The golden beige paint is neat, but what really makes that car
special are the four wheel disc brakes, and all alloy body. Could this have
been a works car?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rogier van der Mast" <rvdm1@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: Gold Healey Found
>
> Hello list,
> I was wondering what is so sepcial about the golden beige healeys?
> I ask this because a friend of mine recently sold his repainted golden
beige
> healey (repainted in BRG), but know for certain it was a special healey.
It
> was a completely restored BJ8 so it was fetching significantly more than I
> can afford and BTW I am very happy with my BJ7 restoration project (RED,
> originally Black). But as I already told, this healey was very special, as
> it had alu fenders and disks at the rear. Sadly enough the healey went for
> less than I would have thought it would go for, but still I would be very
> keen to know what was so special about that car being golden beige
(beleived
> to be the original paint).
>
> Rogier
>
> Everytime I think of her, I picture myself looking at her fantastic body,
> her tight fit and how damn good she is when she is hot! - Yes, I love my
> Austin Healey!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 09:24:49 -0400
Subject: Re: rainbird what
I think it is an aftermarket device sold in the early sixties to keep lit
cigarettes under control at time of impact or collision thus preventing gasoline
fires.
Michael Shepard wrote:
> What the h**l is a " rainbird impact sprinkler unit " ? MShepard 67BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 09:47:53 -0400
Subject: Re: rainbird what
Used in lawn sprinkler systems. Rainbird is the manufacturer. Can't think of
a Healey use.
John Sims, BN6
Abereen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2001 1:41 AM
Subject: rainbird what
>
> What the h**l is a " rainbird impact sprinkler unit " ? MShepard 67BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 10:16:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Re;Brake Boosters
Andy,
The pedal pressure required for the PBR unit is greater.
Stephen, BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 11:04:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Heater valve
Sid,
I have heard that copper-based anti-seize is good for that application;
it's available at NAPA.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2001 11:40 PM
Subject: Heater valve
>
> I had a frozen heater valve on the engine block. I disassembled the valve
but
> am not sure if the brass on brass valve should be lubricated with
something.
> It seems that I read that the brass fittings on rainbird impact sprinkler
> units should not be lubed. Any thoughts or recommendations?
> Sid 65BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 09:03:33 -0700
Subject: Fwd: '65 Spite for sale in San Diego
Please reply to the Bartindales, <bartguf@cts.com>, not to me:
>Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:50:43 -0700
>From: jen&vince <bartguf@cts.com>
>To: rsnover@ix.netcom.com
>Subject: Spite for sale
>
>We are trying to sell our 1965 AH Spite... These are the particulars:
>1098cc, 73K original miles, new springs, clutch, seats, top, coil, tons of
>spares and extras. It needs TLC and tuning. It is a California car with
>the original black plates.
>$6000 or OBO.
>Jennifer Bartindale, (619) 466-4559
Photo at <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh/classifieds.html>.
Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, California
Vice President/Membership Coordinator
Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
Editor, Healey Hearsay <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 12:16:17 -0400
Subject: Re: rainbird what
Those are the lawn sprinkler heads that fit on the irrigation system
that you use to keep the grass green so that the photos that you take of
your Healey look good.
Everyone knows that !!! ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 12:23:58 -0400
Subject: Re: rainbird what
Darn, I had no idea. Not a clue. Thanks Mike
Michael Saltier wrote:
> Those are the lawn sprinkler heads that fit on the irrigation system
> that you use to keep the grass green so that the photos that you take of
> your Healey look good.
> Everyone knows that !!! ;-)
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 12:56:50 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Hub Extensions
The knock-offs on my BJ8 (restored 10 years ago) needed to be replaced, so
I removed them for the first time yesterday. I found 3 hub extentions
threaded at 8 TPI and 1 at 12 TPI. I'm sure everyone knows that sometime
during production of the BJ8, the factory went to 8 TPI from 12 TPI.
This is an easy solution as far as ordering new knock-offs is concerned,
but was just wondering if this is common to put on combination hub
extensions during a restoration. Does anyone else have a different
configuration? Obviously much cheaper to change knock-offs than hub
extensions!
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 10:24:19 -0700
Subject: Arm restless...
But not for long as my wife bought me a BJ7 armrest for my birthday
recently (I know....very lucky guy!). I have read that the armrest is
sewn on to the carpet but what is the proper way to do that given the
curved shape of the drive shaft tunnel? I do have access to an
industrial sewing machine if that is the factory method. Also, my trans
cover carpet ends about 6 inches behind the ash tray and has a bound
edge trim. Is this carpet correct for the BJ7 and should the front of
the arm rest be positioned just behind this trim?
Cheers,
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 13:52:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Arm restless...
Hi John: Originally, the armrest was stitched to the carpet. Not wanting
to do that, I hand stitched some Velcro to the carpet and to the armrest.
Now it looks original, and I can remove it anytime I want.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 1:24 PM
Subject: Arm restless...
>
> But not for long as my wife bought me a BJ7 armrest for my birthday
> recently (I know....very lucky guy!). I have read that the armrest is
> sewn on to the carpet but what is the proper way to do that given the
> curved shape of the drive shaft tunnel? I do have access to an
> industrial sewing machine if that is the factory method. Also, my trans
> cover carpet ends about 6 inches behind the ash tray and has a bound
> edge trim. Is this carpet correct for the BJ7 and should the front of
> the arm rest be positioned just behind this trim?
>
> Cheers,
> John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at erols.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 07:32:00 -0400
Subject: rainbird
thanks everybody - learn something new every day , some days Healeys some days
agriculture ;-)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 14:53:01 -0400
Subject: Re: rainbird
We are all proud to have helped in your education. After all, if Mikey like it .
. . . .
Michael Shepard wrote:
> thanks everybody - learn something new every day , some days Healeys some days
> agriculture ;-)
> if you hany more questions about life's mysteries, please ask.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Gildea <bill at execrecruiter.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 15:56:51 -0400
Subject: Brake Booster
Having recently experienced the same "dead" brake pedal, I and my neighbor
Ely (who also had the braking blues) sent our booster units- from his '65
BJ8 and my '67 BJ8- to Power Bake Exchange in San Jose, CA (408) 292-1305.
The two boosters looked very different. They came back within 10 days,
totally rebuilt and so clean, shiny and painted, that I almost wanted to put
my booster on a coffee table for show! It installed easily (i.e. as easy as
it can be to bend & refit hydraulic lines) and have worked like a charm from
day one. The cost per unit was $227. As as very satisfied customer, I
would highly recommend your considering this option + all the yada yada
caveats of no other interest than making fellow Healeyites happy!
Bill Gildea, V.P.
Senior Technology Recruiter
A.E. Feldman Associates, Inc.
445 Northern Blvd.
Great Neck, NY 11021
Tel:(516)719-7900
www.bill@execrecruiter.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 14:14:12 -0600
Subject: No Healey Content - Mini Cooper - But Fun
Greetings all..
Being a lover of many autos, I thought I'd drop this link to any Mini lovers
or just interested car folk: the new Mini, Mini Cooper, and Mini Cooper S.
I have ordered my Cooper S .....
http://www.mini.com/redir/showroom.html
\Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 Land Rover D110
02 Mini Cooper S - summer 2002
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 16:37:29 -0400
Subject: No Healey Content, but hysterically funny
Here folks is the singular funniest thing I have ever seen on the internet
http://www.madblast.com/oska/humor_bin.swf
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 17:18:54 -0400
Subject: Re: No Healey Content - Mini Cooper - But Fun
Very nice looking car. Modernized but you sure can see the original car
showing through. I've recently seen the new Thunderbird in person and there
are a lot of traces of the original. I wouldn't object if they came out with
a new Healey provided they kept the proportions and lines of the original.
BUt, I bet that would be too much to hope for.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Sailer" <sailer@srv.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 4:14 PM
Subject: No Healey Content - Mini Cooper - But Fun
>
> Greetings all..
>
> Being a lover of many autos, I thought I'd drop this link to any Mini
lovers
> or just interested car folk: the new Mini, Mini Cooper, and Mini Cooper
S.
>
> I have ordered my Cooper S .....
>
> http://www.mini.com/redir/showroom.html
>
>
> \Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
> 93 Land Rover D110
> 02 Mini Cooper S - summer 2002
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 14:44:35 -0400
Subject: Hub Extensions
Scot Hub extensions become available on Ebay all the time and some onesey's go
real cheap (~10$) Check out hat source
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 18:18:11 -0400
Subject: Re: No Healey Content - Mini Cooper - But Fun
Hmmm! It still doesn't look as nice as a "real" one from the '60s.
Bob
>
>Greetings all..
>
>Being a lover of many autos, I thought I'd drop this link to any Mini
lovers
>or just interested car folk: the new Mini, Mini Cooper, and Mini Cooper S.
>
>I have ordered my Cooper S .....
>
>http://www.mini.com/redir/showroom.html
>
>
>\Jim Sailer
>66 BJ8
>93 Land Rover D110
>02 Mini Cooper S - summer 2002
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 16:15:13 -0600
Subject: manifold gasket
Does the dimpled aluminum side of the manifold gasket face the head or the
manifolds. Does the smooth side require a sealant. Also what is the torque
setting for the large brass manifold nuts?
Thanks, Sid 65BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 10:23:18 +1000
Subject: RE: rainbird what
G'day
I remember Rainbirds, we had them in Australia as well. Just perfect for
parking your Morgan under when it was time to sell it.
Water expands the wood and stops the rattles.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 2:16 AM
To: Michael Shepard
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: rainbird what
Those are the lawn sprinkler heads that fit on the irrigation system
that you use to keep the grass green so that the photos that you take of
your Healey look good.
Everyone knows that !!! ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 20:36:43 EDT
Subject: Healey stories
When you have a Healey, particularly if you show it, sometimes you need to
let it go a little bit, because part if it belongs to every person that walks
by and lingers, whether they stop to talk or not. Sometimes their connection
to Healeys is greater than yours. After all, you just happen to own this one,
now. I cannot count the wonderful and interesting people I have met over the
past thirty years simply because I was the guy driving the Healey. I have
owned other cars, and have have friends who own some interesting vehicles,
some pretty exotic, and know of no other marque that inspires this phenomenon
to this degree. SM
Scott McPherson
BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 21:53:52 EDT
Subject: Re:"I want that oil" (Hot Healey content!) Not Much on
In a message dated 10/24/2001 5:44:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time, DMMax@aol.com
writes:
> << Everytime I think of her, I picture myself looking at her fantastic body,
> her tight fit and how damn good she is when she is hot! - Yes, I love my
> Austin Healey! >>
>
>
Erika is not much on top, but she's a great ride!
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 19:05:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Strange Healey from South Africa - Questions?
Hi All -
This last weekend at the Hong Kong Classic Car show
was fantastic.
My BJ8 and they only other road operational healey (a
'61 BT7) was in the show.
My question regards this '61 healey (I promised the
owner I'd try to get the answers) - it is a bit
strange and perhaps this list can give some specifics.
Here are the odd bits about the car (and associated
questions):
1) From what I understand, this is one of the few
cars actually assembled in South Africa in '60 or '61.
It is a '61 3000 Mk I, BT7. It was exported to Hong
Kong about 7 years ago by a South African Pilot, and
now is owned by a Hong Kong British guy.
2) It carries an original factory ID plate as a "BN7"
but it clearly is a four seater "BT7". I do not have
the actual number with me sorry. As a South African
assembled car, did they possibly designate it a BN7 in
error or did they assemble the bodies differently
there? Perhaps the plate was taken from another
car.... but the car does seem to be more or less in
proper original shape (i.e. it didn't look like a
Frankenstein Car). Any ideas?
3) The bonnet lid is from a 100-6 (i.e. with the
centre spline) but I seem to recall an odd bit of
trivia somewhere that they also put them on 3000s
assembled in South Africa and possibly Mexico. Am I
correct here? I am trying to ascertain if it has the
original bonnet lid on it.
TIA, & cheers.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 20:03:58 -0500
Subject: Re: rainbird what
Patrick
It's not the wood you heard rattling but the termites "shake,
rattle and rolling" in sensu Bill Healey <wink>! The european
ash frame is treated to reduce potential water damage!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'89 Morgan 4/4
'65 BJ8
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
>
> G'day
>
> I remember Rainbirds, we had them in Australia as well. Just perfect for
> parking your Morgan under when it was time to sell it.
>
> Water expands the wood and stops the rattles.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@home.com]
> Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 2:16 AM
> To: Michael Shepard
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: rainbird what
>
> Those are the lawn sprinkler heads that fit on the irrigation system
> that you use to keep the grass green so that the photos that you take of
> your Healey look good.
> Everyone knows that !!! ;-)
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 23:02:43 -0500
Subject: Re: rainbird what
I just saved that in my "tech stuff" file. Thanks, Patrick!
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <magicare@home.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 7:23 PM
Subject: RE: rainbird what
>
> G'day
>
> I remember Rainbirds, we had them in Australia as well. Just perfect for
> parking your Morgan under when it was time to sell it.
>
> Water expands the wood and stops the rattles.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 23:17:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Heater valve
In a message dated 10/23/01 11:54:54 PM Central Daylight Time, bron@rmci.net
writes:
> brass on brass valve should be lubricated with something.
> What you need here is a special grease designed for petcocks. There are
> many grades and you should be able to find it at an industrial grade
> steamfitter/pipefitter/plumbing type outfit. You might be able to get
> them to just give you a little smear on the valve parts if you take them
> in. Having manufactured valves like this in the past, I know have a 1000
> year supply in my garage. I would also add that you would get excellant
> results with anti sieze or even teflon paste. I would highly recommend
> you lap them together a little bit before reassembly.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Tong <alan at picotech.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 08:01:46 +0000
Subject: Re: No Healey Content - Mini Cooper - But Fun
Having driven one I think its a great car, but I still can not get my
head around the new mini being a German (ie BMW) car...
Alan Tong
1964 BJ8
1977 MG Midget
1995 MG MGF
>
> Hmmm! It still doesn't look as nice as a "real" one from the '60s.
>
> Bob
>
>
> >
> >Greetings all..
> >
> >Being a lover of many autos, I thought I'd drop this link to any Mini
> lovers
> >or just interested car folk: the new Mini, Mini Cooper, and Mini Cooper S.
> >
> >I have ordered my Cooper S .....
> >
> >http://www.mini.com/redir/showroom.html
> >
> >
> >\Jim Sailer
> >66 BJ8
> >93 Land Rover D110
> >02 Mini Cooper S - summer 2002
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 10:59:05 +0100
Subject: Pat Moss interviewed on BBC Radio 4
Listen to Pat (nee) Moss and Ann Wisdom interviewed about their rallying
days, on BBC Radio 4, broadcast on Wednesday 24 October.
See the link on the Austin Healey Club web site home page (RealPlayer
required).
-
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 08:16:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Strange Healey from South Africa - Questions?
Hi Alan,
As to point #3. When I saw Donald M. Healey on one of his visits to the
States, I asked him specifically about the creased bonnet, as I have on my
100/Six. He claimed that when they ran low on the creased ones, they
reordered and they came through without the crease, so they continued to
install them on the cars. A while later they found a crate of creased ones
in the warehouse and installed them. As he said, "Don't you understand, we
did anything to sell cars to you Yanks."
Rudy Streng
100/Six Registrar
Lenoir, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Paul Leeks" <paul_leeks at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 13:01:48 +0000
Subject: Re: rear seat belts / child seat
Alan
[I sent this a couple of days ago but probably press the wrong key ...]
I fitted a three-point rally harness for one rear seat on my 100/6 for my
three year-old son.
I attached the two side brackets to the back of the horizontal floor into
which the seat fits - one in the corner where the floor meets the boot wall
and the wheel arch - and the other right in the middle between the two
seats.
I attached the top bracket to the rear vertical boot wall at the top with so
that the belt runs over the seat back but under the hood frame (so that the
hood can still re raised!). Also I can hide the entire seat belt behind the
seat back if required.
I drilled appropriately sized holes for the brackets and fitted small (2mm
thick) steel plates below each hole before doing up the nut & bolt for extra
strength.
One thing to note - I believe - is that UK MOTs require at least 30cm of
sound metal around any selt-belt anchor point.
I'm not sure whether this will work on a Mk III but, hopefully, this will
provide a good starting point.
The set-up works fine for my little 'un enabling him to enjoy full Healey
indoctrination from an early age!
Best wishes and good luck
Paul Leeks
Lancashire
1957 100/6
...........................
<Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 08:33:46 +0000
<From: Alan Tong <alan@picotech.co.uk>
<Subject: rear seat belts / child seat
<
<Hi All,
<
<Does anyone have any advice / experience to share on fitting rear
<seat belts to a 3000 MK3?
<
<When I bought the car I hoped I could fit our childs car seat in the
<back, but despite trying various car seats, they all seem too tall &
<get in the way of the rear window when the hood is raised.
<
<As my daughter is 3 years old, rather than using a car seat, I am
<considering fitting 4 point seatbelts / harness for the rear
<seats. If anyone has done this before I would appreciate some advice
<such as where are the best points to secure the belts.
<
<Thanks
<Alan Tong
<
<1964 Healey 3000 MK III
<1974 MG Midget
<1995 MG MGF VVC
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 11:02:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Strange Healey from South Africa - Questions?
In a message dated 10/25/01 5:18:17 AM, CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
<< As to point #3. When I saw Donald M. Healey on one of his visits to the
States, I asked him specifically about the creased bonnet, as I have on my
100/Six. He claimed that when they ran low on the creased ones, they
reordered and they came through without the crease, so they continued to
install them on the cars. A while later they found a crate of creased ones
in the warehouse and installed them. As he said, "Don't you understand, we
did anything to sell cars to you Yanks." >>
This is a great example of how much or how little we know about our cars
since the original documentation was sparse and mostly destroyed after the
British Leyland merger. I asked Geoff Healey about the creased bonnet (and
remember that Donald did the visionary part and the public relations work,
while it was Geoff who was responsible for going to Longbridge and then
Abingdon to approve changes on behalf of DHMW ltd.). His explanation was that
the crease was included when the first six-cylinder bonnets were designed
because they were only braced at the hinge end and there was concern that
they would buckle without some reinforcement. Once the second brace was
added, it was believed that the crease could be deleted, so they used both
styles in parallel for some period of time. Once it was determined that the
crease wasn't necessary, Jensen and the dealers were instructed to use up the
creased bonnets they had in inventory. This explained (to me at least) why
the bonnets aren't found in any consistent body number sequence like other
running changes usually are.
So we have two differing explanations, each from one of the two people who
were intimately involved with the car. While I personally would give higher
odds to Geoff's explanation, I don't think there is any way we will ever be
sure.
"...and that's the rest of the story"
Good Day,
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 12:50:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Strange Healey from South Africa - Questions?
Editorgary@aol.com writes:<<> His explanation was that the crease was included
> when the first six-cylinder bonnets were designed because they were only
> braced at the hinge end and there was concern that they would buckle
> without some reinforcement. >>
Without the front brace even a ridged hood will tend to twist. Just to add to
the confusion, I have three of the ridged hoods. Two are without the front
brace and one has the brace. The two without the brace are from early
Longbridge cars, the one with the brace is from an early Abingdon car. So not
only did they appear and reappear they seemed to have changed spec.'s along
the way.
Rudy, did Donald ever explain why the BN4 had only one door lock? Inquiring
minds want to know.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Relick <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 13:00:34 -0400
Subject: Listquest
Is listquest still working? I haven't had to get on for a while and now
find I can't get on at all.
Thanks
Bob
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 16:09:36 -0400
Subject: Who's car was that in Summer 2001 Moss magazine?
Folks,
I'm trying to track down the owner of a car. Who's car was
that in Summer 2001 Moss British Motoring magazine on page 12? It lis a
green BJ8 with a custom grill and bugeye bumperettes on the front. I'd
like to talk to the owner about a couple things in the picture...
Thanks in advance,
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ZManDino at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 20:25:36 EDT
Subject: No Healey Content - just the Eagle
Let the Eagles Fly
>This is great ... C
Check out this site. Something new from Waylon
> Jennings
>
>
> http://home.att.net/~poofycatt/EAGLE.html
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 23:11:57 -0400
Subject: Bumper paint
Does anyone know the name of the flat silver/grey paint that is used inside
the bumper/overiders?Where can you get it? Mine are kind of dingy and need
to be redone.
Thanks......
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 22:33:35 -0600
Subject: Rear Shroud shape
Just a strange inquiry from someone in over his
head
I am working on straightening the rear shroud for
my BN1. On either side of the lower portion just
to the inside of the flange there is a shallow
groove or valley. They look like they are there to
continue the line of the rear wing into the lower
shroud. The problem is that they are not
consistent as to size or placement and if they are
part of the design I need to modify one of them to
make them look right. I have not been able to find
a picture of the rear of a 100 where this space is
not hidden by the bumper, to use as a guide. The
drawing in the parts catalog shows the shroud
without these creases and if that is correct I'll
be just as happy.
Any advise from the group?
Thanks in advance.
Bill Lawrence
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 02:19:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Hub Extensions
Scot & Splitkane -
In general, I would not suggest ever buying a used
wire wheel hub. They wear out often enough, and if
they wear out on the road it'll strip out the splines
on your wire wheel ($$$$). Better to spend a couple
hundred for a new hub and be assured it won't strip
out on you (I had it happen to me on a brand new 72
spoke chrome wire... ouch bucks!).
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Splitkane <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
wrote:
>
> Scot Hub extensions become available on Ebay all the
> time and some onesey's go
> real cheap (~10$) Check out hat source
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 08:24:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear Shroud shape
Hi Bill,
There are no creases on the rear shroud that would form extensions of
the fender swage lines.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 08:40:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Hub Extensions
While on the subject of wheel splines..
We have found that the new front hubs for pre '65 disc brake that we have been
supplied with recently do not have the correct size holes or large countersink
for the disc attachment hubs.
It would appear that these are designed for use with regular hex headed bolts
which, in my opinion, look very unprofessional.
We have been drilling them out to the correct size then countersinking before
installing studs.
Any thoughts?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 10:17:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Hub Extensions
That's what I've been doing, too, Mike. Don't you love it when you
pay so much for a part, then have to spend so much time modifying
it to make it fit right?
Doug, 18G
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
Cc: "Splitkane" <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: Hub Extensions
>
> While on the subject of wheel splines..
>
> We have found that the new front hubs for pre '65 disc brake that we have
been supplied with recently do not have the correct size holes or large
countersink for the disc attachment hubs.
> It would appear that these are designed for use with regular hex headed
bolts which, in my opinion, look very unprofessional.
>
> We have been drilling them out to the correct size then countersinking
before installing studs.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Biloselhir at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 10:56:16 EDT
Subject: Steering wheel removal on late BN4
I know this has been on the list several times, but with the listquest down I
need some help!
On my 59 BN4 with non adjustable steering wheel, Control Assembly and stator
tube and wiring have been pulled. Can't remember how to get steering wheel
off. I sorta remember that there is a "C" clip somewhere, but can't find it?
HELP !
Bill Percival
'59 BN4L075759
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 08:09:42 -0700
Subject: Creased Bonnet
Hi Guys,
Interesting comments regarding the apparent random fitting of the creased
bonnet on 100/6 cars. That explains the lack of change points listed for
this distinctive feature.
Speaking of change points, my early BN4 has the bonnet prop on the right
hand side. All the references I have (Moss, Clausager, Anderson/Moment)
indicate that it should be on the left side as the change point for this is
the begining of the second batch of BN4s. I assumed that I had a bonnet
from a later car. However, when removing the paint I noticed that the body
number was stamped on the left side hinge bracket. Guess what? It matched
the body number on the firewall (and the BMIHT Cert.)! Could the experts be
wrong? Comments?
Cheers,
John '58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 11:35:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Bumper paint
In a message dated 10/25/01 8:14:41 PM, SPAULSON1@compuserve.com writes:
<< Does anyone know the name of the flat silver/grey paint that is used inside
the bumper/overiders?Where can you get it? Mine are kind of dingy and need
to be redone.
Thanks......
Scot
'66 BJ8 >>
There's no specific paint color. Anything between shiny "chrome" and dull
gray would work. As original, the paint was just there to keep the bumpers
from starting to rust before they got off the docks. Just look for some nice
shiny silver paint at the auto store (Krylon is fine). If you've recently
painted your wheels or brake drums, use that. If you haven't then buy a can
and spray both the bumpers and the brake drums.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 11:51:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal on late BN4
Bill,
Non-adjustable steering boxes use a nut to fit the wheel; adjustables have
the circlip. Try Kroil or Busty, and working the wheel hub up and down
on the shaft to dislodge it. A large rubber mallet can come in handy, too.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 9:56 AM
Subject: Steering wheel removal on late BN4
>
> I know this has been on the list several times, but with the listquest
down I
> need some help!
>
> On my 59 BN4 with non adjustable steering wheel, Control Assembly and
stator
> tube and wiring have been pulled. Can't remember how to get steering
wheel
> off. I sorta remember that there is a "C" clip somewhere, but can't find
it?
> HELP !
>
> Bill Percival
> '59 BN4L075759
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 11:56:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
In a message dated 10/26/01 8:12:40 AM, johnepeak@hotmail.com writes:
<< Speaking of change points, my early BN4 has the bonnet prop on the right
hand side. All the references I have (Moss, Clausager, Anderson/Moment)
indicate that it should be on the left side as the change point for this is
the begining of the second batch of BN4s. I assumed that I had a bonnet
from a later car. However, when removing the paint I noticed that the body
number was stamped on the left side hinge bracket. Guess what? It matched
the body number on the firewall (and the BMIHT Cert.)! Could the experts be
wrong? Comments? >>
What are your body and chassis numbers? Would be interesting to see where
they fall. We're only experts in knowing what the factory parts lists
recorded and what we've seen, so it would certainly be interesting to see if
the change might have occurred before the move to Abingdon, for example, and
whether any of the folks with the "transition cars (BN4s produced during the
period October 1957 to April 1958) have the same configuration.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:21:28 -0400
Subject: RE: Creased Bonnet
Hi John,
I also have a 58 BN4 from the first batch. It was a Longbridge body finished
at Abingdon with the 6 port head. As I understand it they changed the prop
rod on the cars that were finished at Abingdon with the other head so that
it would not interfere with the air cleaners and carbs. Mine is also a
double reinforced creased bonnet.
My certificate says mine was built in March, when was yours built?
Rick Lees
58 BN4
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of John Peak
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 11:10 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Creased Bonnet
Hi Guys,
Interesting comments regarding the apparent random fitting of the creased
bonnet on 100/6 cars. That explains the lack of change points listed for
this distinctive feature.
Speaking of change points, my early BN4 has the bonnet prop on the right
hand side. All the references I have (Moss, Clausager, Anderson/Moment)
indicate that it should be on the left side as the change point for this is
the begining of the second batch of BN4s. I assumed that I had a bonnet
from a later car. However, when removing the paint I noticed that the body
number was stamped on the left side hinge bracket. Guess what? It matched
the body number on the firewall (and the BMIHT Cert.)! Could the experts be
wrong? Comments?
Cheers,
John '58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 09:52:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
At 11:56 AM -0400 10/26/01, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> Would be interesting to see where
>they fall. We're only experts in knowing what the factory parts lists
>recorded and what we've seen, so it would certainly be interesting to see if
>the change might have occurred before the move to Abingdon, for example, and
>whether any of the folks with the "transition cars (BN4s produced during the
>period October 1957 to April 1958) have the same configuration.
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
If it helps .. my Longbridge BN4 built Oct '57, has the bonnet
support on the Left (or right if your head is in the engine bay). It
is a right hand drive model and has no crease in the bonnet.
Rohan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 13:10:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
All this creased bonnet talk about Geoffrey or Donald's view as to when any
of that happened sounds as if there is some assumption that Longbridge or
Abingdon had something to do with when or how that happened. Wouldn't that
all have been handled by Jensen?
Seems like the only involvement the Healeys would have is a possible meeting
where a Jensen rep. upon getting a new hood strengthening bracket design said
something like, "We've got a stronger brace now. So, how 'bout we lose the
crease down the middle of the bonnet? 'You guys ok with that?"
There were some batches of hoods with and without creases and/or extra braces
and they apparently, were used when they got to 'em.
Picture this...In the factory there is a pile of bonnets with creases up
against the wall. Then, Along comes a new batch of bonnets with no crease and
they are put on top of, or in front of those creased bonnets. the assembly
guy comes along and picks up the closest bonnet (it has no crease) and
continues working until he starts getting to those creased bonnets again.
Doesn't sound like any real mystery to me, and apparently was no big whoop to
the Healeys either.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:18:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 2002 Encounter Place, Dates
Hi Team,
Would someone please tell me the place (city and state) of the 2002
Encounter?
Also, if possible, please confirm the dates of August 16-19, 2002. Many
thanks.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 15:22:05 EDT
Subject: Steering wheel
A quick question for the experts (I'm certainly not one).
I have an aftermarket steering wheel on my BJ-8, Three aluminum spokes with
elongated holes in each, wood rim, with a mark that looks like two interlaced
block "L"'s.
Can anyone give me some information as to manufacturer, etc.
Thanks.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 15:47:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
The prop rod was moved when the carburettors were changed. Because when you
change from the early to the late head the carbs were straight and if you
have the later head with the angled crabs it would jit the prop rod. So the
rod was changed from left to the right side of the hood.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:48:34 -0700
Subject: RE: Steering wheel
Les Leston? I don't know the model.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 15:02:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering wheel
les leston was a british race car driver and manufacturer of speed equipment.
healeys used his wheel as an option.
JohnbS7257@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> A quick question for the experts (I'm certainly not one).
>
> I have an aftermarket steering wheel on my BJ-8, Three aluminum spokes with
> elongated holes in each, wood rim, with a mark that looks like two interlaced
> block "L"'s.
>
> Can anyone give me some information as to manufacturer, etc.
>
> Thanks.
>
> John Stevens
> "Ruby" BJ8 27621
> JohnbS7257@aol.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 17:07:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
Don't you just hate it when your angled crabs jit the prop rod....
All in fun, Love-ya
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <johnepeak@hotmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 3:47 PM
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
>
> The prop rod was moved when the carburettors were changed. Because when
you
> change from the early to the late head the carbs were straight and if you
> have the later head with the angled crabs it would jit the prop rod. So
the
> rod was changed from left to the right side of the hood.
>
> David Nock
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 17:23:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
In a message dated 10/26/01 10:13:30 AM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
<<
All this creased bonnet talk about Geoffrey or Donald's view as to when any
of that happened sounds as if there is some assumption that Longbridge or
Abingdon had something to do with when or how that happened. Wouldn't that
all have been handled by Jensen? >>
Rick is, of course, right that the bodies were produced at Jensen's but all
the decisions were made at British Motor Corporation (ne Austin) offices in
Longbridge and executed in their drawing office. Jensen was just a contractor
and had very little to do with the design. I don't think the planners or
draughtsman ever moved over to Abingdon but would have to check on that.b I
believe it was just the assembly of Healeys that was consolidated with MGs.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 17:15:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
Now it all makes sense!
My BN4, built August '57, has prop on left, with hood crease. It was changed
later to a 6 port head. Both carb vacuum chambers have a polished notch worn
across the web on the top front, from the hood prop. I have bent the prop rod
slightly to make sure it clears.
Anyone have a couple of HD6 vacuum chambers they don't want? (are the pistons
and chambers matched pairs?)
Fred Meyer
Longbridge BN4
HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> The prop rod was moved when the carburettors were changed. Because when you
> change from the early to the late head the carbs were straight and if you
> have the later head with the angled crabs it would jit the prop rod. So the
> rod was changed from left to the right side of the hood.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
> June 23-28 2002
> Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
> <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
> </A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bradley H. Simmons" <email at bighealeys.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 19:20:06 -0500
Subject: Chrome Plating Inquiry
I am interested in information regarding chrome plating for
my 100-6, Series BN6:
Is there a difference in methods currently employed?
What are the initial and long-term results of "show"
plating versus "standard" plating?
Are there any recommended sources for having these
services performed?
Has anyone recently had this type of work done that
would be willing to share examples of cost?
All responses are, as always, greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Bradley
'58 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 19:35:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
<<...I don't think the planners or
draughtsman ever moved over ...>>
Ah HA!!!! A "DEFINITIVE" Answer!!!
Pour stout, ale or beer FIRST!!!!!
Huuuum!
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 21:05:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Steering wheel
Thanks to all who answered my query about the Les Leston steering wheel.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 00:25:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
bluechipracing@snet.net writes:
<< Don't you just hate it when your angled crabs jit the prop rod.... >>
Absolutely not, if the angled crabs didn't jit the prop rod there wouldn't be
any movement I would never beable to catch the fraggled pocketpus for our
suechi! We would have to have boigers and wahm beeear!
All in fun.
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 23:49:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Reverse Polarity Question - Sorry!!
I know this has been covered a hundred times here, but
I'm helping my friend convert his '61 BT7 to negative
ground and I forgot how to polarize the generator (the
only necessary step to convert a BT7 over , if I
recall correctly)...
I think I'm supposed to switch the battery around in
the trunk, then turn the ignition on and then take the
big female lead off the back of the generator and
swipe it a few times against the small male lead on
the back of the generator (i.e. the one for the field
magnets - "F" right??). Then reconnect everything &
rock and roll.
Do I have this proces right? Please correct me if I'm
wrong!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 04:13:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Chrome Plating Inquiry
Bradley
A lot will have to do with your location and if you are willing to pay
shipping costs to have the work estimated and/or done. There are lots of
good chrome shops around the country (assuming you are in the US). Some
specialize in plating only, others are good at straightening, some shops will
not touch potmetal, so it depends on the items to be done. Perhaps more info
from you may help get recommendations.
Regarding show chrome vs. standard, the prep work is pretty much the same,
the biggest difference is the time the parts spend in the nickel tank. The
dip in the chrome tank is the same most all the shops, about 2 minutes.
Steel parts tend to rust through if the copper coat is not adequate to
protect but too thick a layer can be a problem as details and fit of
interfaced parts are lost. Cleaning of the parts, mechanically and
chemically is also very important.
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bradley H. Simmons" <email at bighealeys.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 04:24:17 -0500
Subject: Chrome Plating Inquiry - Addendum
I am sending this as a modification to the original inquiry.
My inquiry stems from my questioning the wisdom of having
parts re-chromed as opposed to replacing them with
reproductions; it is my understanding that the repro bumpers
are made from a lighter gauge metal and it is therefore
recommended that originals are found and re-chromed. I would
imagine that the quality of the components is generally
better in the originals than in the reproductions, and I
would like to maintain the integrity of the vehicle with
original parts wherever possible.
I am curious as to price examples for the following:
Grille - a large and intricate item
Grille Surround - a small and simple item
All of the pieces that I am considering having done are in
good condition in that they are both complete and straight.
I live in Montgomery, Alabama and I expect to mail all of the
pieces to whomever will do the work; I would be pleasantly
surprised to find a shop within a reasonable distance.
All responses are, as always, greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Bradley
'58 BN6
> ORIGINAL MESSAGE:
>
> I am interested in information regarding chrome plating for
> my 100-6, Series BN6:
>
> Is there a difference in methods currently employed?
>
> What are the initial and long-term results of "show"
> plating versus "standard" plating?
>
> Are there any recommended sources for having these
> services performed?
>
> Has anyone recently had this type of work done that
> would be willing to share examples of cost?
>
> All responses are, as always, greatly appreciated.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bradley
> '58 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 04:38:05 -0500
Subject: Chrome Plating
Hi Bradley:
There's a place here in Morganfield, KY that does excellent chrome plating
work. I had 13 small pieces (door handle rings, top insert protector, etc.)
done in show quality chrome. They charged me $72.
I thought the price was right for the quality. I can send you an exact list
of pieces plated if you are interested, along with a phone number.
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 04:44:03 -0500
Subject: Angled Crabs
Reminds me of the two sailors who went to a sea food restaurant. One asked
the waitress,
"Do you have crabs?"
"Yes we do," she replied.
"Their pesky little devils aren't they?"
Especially when they jit your prop rod.
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 10:43:51 +0100
Subject: European listersTwo weeks in Cologne.
I shall be in Kvln, Cologne in Germany, for 2 weeks +/- arriving
4th November. Does that coincide with any interesting Local
Healey events or whatever? I shall have a car, VW not AH, so need
not be too local. One could be thinking of the nearer parts of
Germany, Belgium or Holland?
Yr's,
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 06:39:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
>Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>>What are your body and chassis numbers? Would be interesting to see where
>they fall. We're only experts in knowing what the factory parts lists
>recorded and what we've seen, so it would certainly be interesting to see
>if
>the change might have occurred before the move to Abingdon, for example,
>and
>whether any of the folks with the "transition cars (BN4s produced during
>the
>period October 1957 to April 1958) have the same configuration.
Gary,
Mine is car # BN4-L-S/56204, body # 7595. It left the Abingdon factory on
January 22, 1958.
Clausager's book features an Abingdon built BN4 with a lower car number than
mine (page 88). It also has the prop rod on the right hand side (page 55).
I agree with David Nock that the change probably coincided with the
introduction of the 6 port head (Don't know about the angled crabs!).
Interestingly, this same car is shown with the later style top frame and
rear quarter panels although it has the early armrest and sidescreen mounts
(page 70). Could this change have been earlier also or was this car
incorrectly restored? I am not trying to pick apart the work of those who
have gone to all the trouble of researching information on our cars, I just
want to restore my car as correctly as possible.
Cheers,
John Peak
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From phil at lesliecompanies.com (Phillip W. Leslie)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 10:47:38 -0500
Subject: Ballasted Ignition system
Another "newby" question. Is the ignition system on a BJ8 "ballasted" or
"unballasted"?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 11:52:07 EDT
Subject: Re: No Healey Content - Mini Cooper - But Fun
you can also check out www.mini2.com
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7
'80 TR8 Coupe
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
'39 Dodge Business Coupe
Etc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bradley H. Simmons" <email at bighealeys.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 11:27:40 -0500
Subject: Paint and the EPA
I have been told that automotive lacquer paint has
been banned in the US and that only NOS is available
"while supplies last"; I consider the individual a
reliable source, but would appreciate conformation
and recommended alternatives from anyone who would
be kind enough to respond.
All responses are, as always, greatly appreciated.
P.S. I hesitate to incur the wrath of the
environmentalists, but, the same individual
suggested that paints could be bought from
Mexico ...
Regards,
Bradley
'58 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 12:43:04 -0400
Subject: Re:Creased bonnet
John:
My 1957 Longbridge Bn4 #45281 Batch #3960 Body # 5524 two port head ,
has a creased bonnet and the prop rod is on the left side. Sorry I
don't have a certificate to give actual building dates
Dennis Broughel
Bn-4 Longbridge
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 12:49:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Ballasted Ignition system
Unballasted.....
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
"Phillip W. Leslie" wrote:
> Another "newby" question. Is the ignition system on a BJ8 "ballasted" or
> "unballasted"?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 10:54:31 +0100
Subject: Re: Chrome Plating Inquiry - Addendum
Hi Bradley-
I faced the same issues this past year regarding rechrome vs repro
bumpers. It is a simple but complicated decision. As an old professor
used to say, clearly the answer is yes and no.
Retaining originals was desirable to me as well for the reasons you
mentioned, somewhat stronger bumpers and they are original parts. I
personally was done in by the cost. In my case, the bumpers had some
surface rust and modest pits. If rechromed as is, the new chrome job
would show the pits. If leaded in to fill the pits, the cost increased
from around $220 to 350-400 per bumper.
Then add in the cost of the bumper overrides, $45 each. Additionally,
my overrides had lots of surface nicks from bumper contact over the
years. I was told these could be smoothed somewhat, but they would not
be perfect and the metal would be thinned in those spots.
You also have the question of rechrome quality. Talk around and hear
enough stories and you hear of little rust cracks starting within a year
or two. So this is another issue to think about. And other things, like
rounded bolt holes needing repair.
If you can navigate the above issues okay, perhaps with the help of
someone locally, and are willing to pay the cost, you could have the
ultimate, a set of originals in show condition.
Repro bumpers cost about $120 each. Moss ran a year end sale last year
selling them for $99, a rather amazing buy. I will buy a set at year's
end, hopefully at sale price. The overrides cost around 25-30 each and I
don't recall the sale price. If you receive bumpers with flawed chrome,
Moss will replace them. So for a modest sum and no worries and
headaches, you are done.
I have seen the repro bumpers. They are a good solid okay and are good
enough for me. They would look just fine to 99% of the people who looked
at them and to Healey owners who mentally accepted them. They would look
compromised to Healey enthusiasts who championed originality. If you get
hung up on originality etc as I was, they are inadequate. If you opt
for convience and decide less than perfect is okay, which is where I am
now, they are a gift. Change your thinking, change your life.
Hope this helps!
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 13:33:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
many of the pictures in clausager's book need to be taken "with a grain of
salt".
John Peak wrote:
>
>
> >Editorgary@aol.com writes:
> >>What are your body and chassis numbers? Would be interesting to see where
> >they fall. We're only experts in knowing what the factory parts lists
> >recorded and what we've seen, so it would certainly be interesting to see
> >if
> >the change might have occurred before the move to Abingdon, for example,
> >and
> >whether any of the folks with the "transition cars (BN4s produced during
> >the
> >period October 1957 to April 1958) have the same configuration.
>
> Gary,
> Mine is car # BN4-L-S/56204, body # 7595. It left the Abingdon factory on
> January 22, 1958.
> Clausager's book features an Abingdon built BN4 with a lower car number than
> mine (page 88). It also has the prop rod on the right hand side (page 55).
> I agree with David Nock that the change probably coincided with the
> introduction of the 6 port head (Don't know about the angled crabs!).
> Interestingly, this same car is shown with the later style top frame and
> rear quarter panels although it has the early armrest and sidescreen mounts
> (page 70). Could this change have been earlier also or was this car
> incorrectly restored? I am not trying to pick apart the work of those who
> have gone to all the trouble of researching information on our cars, I just
> want to restore my car as correctly as possible.
> Cheers,
> John Peak
>
> _________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Relick <RRelick at houston.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 13:30:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Pickup
Pulled my tank because I wasn't getting enough gas to the carbs and discovered
my problem is
the same as Alan's. I cleaned out the fitting as best as I could but with the
tank on edge,
the gas just sits in the opening of the pickup tube and does not flow back into
the tank. Any
suggestions as to how to clean out the tube and over come this dilemma?
Thanks
Bob
67 BJ8
Alan Schultz wrote:
> Last weekend I started the engine of the BJ8 that I bought as a basket
> case two years ago. Had some trouble getting fuel to the carbs. Finally,
> after blowing compressed air through the fuel tank fitting I managed to
> fire it up. Ran great for about 5 seconds then died. Blew air again
> through the tank fitting. More gas entered the carb. Started and died.
> Enough is enough, so I removed the tank (after draining all the gas)
> filled with water and carefully drilled a hole in the top of the
> fitting. BTW the fitting is welded to the tank and cannot be removed.
> After poking a wire down the tube but finding that it would not go all
> the way through there was little left to do but open the tank to see
> what the trouble was. After carefully cutting around the fitting and
> pulling it out I discover a plastic filter on the end of the pickup
> tube. I sloshed tank sealer through the tank a couple years ago to
> insure against rust flakes in the carbs. Trouble is, the sealer also
> sealed the filter. Compressed air blew the filter apart at a couple
> seams but when the gas began flowing it would seal and prevent fuel from
> being pumped.
>
> My question is this. If the fitting was welded to the tank at the
> factory, how was anyone to examine it when troubled by poor gas flow?
> Did they expect the Owner to throw away their tanks and purchase new
> ones? Did a PO have the fitting welded to the tank for some reason?
>
> Warning to those that might want to slosh their tank with sealant.
>
> Alan
> HBJ8L/34297
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 19:53:10 +0100
Subject: Cleaning overdrive solenoid contacts - how best done?
Well, I've sussed my overdrive problem - the pull/hold contacts on the
top of the solenoid were not making good contact, so I was getting a
dubious pull.
So, what is the best way to refurbish theses contacts without damaging
them? Is 1200 grit emery paper too coarse (even if used gently)? Is
there something better? After 38,000 miles, is there likely to be any
contact plating left anyway?
Also, has anyone tried damping the sparks with a diode across the coil
or contacts? Does this help, or do these contacts need a spark to burn
off the deposits?
As always, any help much appreciated.
-
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 15:21:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Pickup
Bob and Alan:
I found it impossible to clear out the rust and crud packed in the pickup
tube, so I attached a second pickup tube through a hole drilled in the
sending unit. This was to be a temporary fix as I was planning to replace
the tank, but still haven't gotten around to it after 15 years. Still
working fine.
Jim, BN7 etc.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Relick" <RRelick@houston.rr.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Pickup
>
> Pulled my tank because I wasn't getting enough gas to the carbs and
discovered my problem is
> the same as Alan's. I cleaned out the fitting as best as I could but with
the tank on edge,
> the gas just sits in the opening of the pickup tube and does not flow back
into the tank. Any
> suggestions as to how to clean out the tube and over come this dilemma?
> Thanks
> Bob
> 67 BJ8
>
> Alan Schultz wrote:
>
> > Last weekend .......
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 12:49:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Cleaning overdrive solenoid contacts - how best done?
Dear Listers-
And another OD solenoid question-
All the ones I've taken apart seem to have the plastic cover, under the rubber
boot, damaged and deformed from heat. I have one solenoid that is perfectly
good (after cleaning the contacts), but needs a new cover. Does anyone know if
internal solenoid parts are available anywhere?
Thanks-
Fred Meyer
Longbridge BN4
Alan F Cross wrote:
> Well, I've sussed my overdrive problem - the pull/hold contacts on the
> top of the solenoid were not making good contact, so I was getting a
> dubious pull.
> So, what is the best way to refurbish theses contacts without damaging
> them? Is 1200 grit emery paper too coarse (even if used gently)? Is
> there something better? After 38,000 miles, is there likely to be any
> contact plating left anyway?
> Also, has anyone tried damping the sparks with a diode across the coil
> or contacts? Does this help, or do these contacts need a spark to burn
> off the deposits?
>
> As always, any help much appreciated.
> -
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 16:28:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Reverse Polarity Question - Sorry!!
Hi, Alan -
Use a jumper wire from a "hot" source (such as the starter solenoid) and
brush this twice against the "F" terminal on the back of the generator (the
"F" terminal is the smaller of the two).
You should also reverse the connections of the coil.
Some later SU fuel pumps are polarized and can burn up if connected
backwards. Earlier pumps are supposed to be able to run either way.
Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "One.Proud.American" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 2:49 AM
Subject: Reverse Polarity Question - Sorry!!
>
> I know this has been covered a hundred times here, but
> I'm helping my friend convert his '61 BT7 to negative
> ground and I forgot how to polarize the generator (the
> only necessary step to convert a BT7 over , if I
> recall correctly)...
>
> I think I'm supposed to switch the battery around in
> the trunk, then turn the ignition on and then take the
> big female lead off the back of the generator and
> swipe it a few times against the small male lead on
> the back of the generator (i.e. the one for the field
> magnets - "F" right??). Then reconnect everything &
> rock and roll.
>
> Do I have this proces right? Please correct me if I'm
> wrong!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 19:19:47 -0500
Subject: chrome plating
Hi Gang:
I had several off list inquiries about the plating company here in
Morganfield, KY. They are called Universal Plating and they have a website.
Type in the www and then the name in lower case then the dot com. (I tried
to include a link and the server rejected it)
Their phone number is 270-389-1622. The company is owned by Bobby and Kelly
Gobin. You can mention my name if you want to but they might respond better
if you don't. (Ha!)
They will probably mail ;you a price list and product services list if you
ask them to. Nice folks.
No financial interests...yada yada yada.
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at blazenet.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 21:32:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Paint and the EPA
"Bradley H. Simmons" wrote:
> I have been told that automotive lacquer paint has
> been banned in the US and that only NOS is available
> "while supplies last"; I consider the individual a
> reliable source, but would appreciate conformation
> and recommended alternatives from anyone who would
> be kind enough to respond.
>
> All responses are, as always, greatly appreciated.
>
> P.S. I hesitate to incur the wrath of the
> environmentalists, but, the same individual
> suggested that paints could be bought from
> Mexico ...
>
> Regards,
>
> Bradley
> '58 BN6
Bradley,
I recently called one of the local PPG dealers who told me that lacquer is still
produced in small quantities for the restorer but will not be sold to large body
shops for production type work. Probably other manufacturers also make it. I
have not, however, actually tried to buy any yet.
Also check http://www.williamwolf.com which is a paint supplier somewhere in
Ohio
that carries lacquer. They also carry nitrocellulose lacquer which I've been
told
is like STP in viscosity and must be thinned considerably.
Charlie Baldwin
'62BT7
York, PA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 01:04:53 EST
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
I have a fair number of creased bonnets in case someone is looking for them.
Bill
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 05:04:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
Hi all:
Who would be the best bet to have my bn1 carbs rebuilt by?
lance
54 bn1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 07:37:46 EST
Subject: Healeys & Bimmers
Just when we were talking about stories from former Healey owners, this
happens:
My son in college in Philly tells me that while driving up to the local WaWa*
in his beater BMW 2002, he meets up with a guy driving a green 100-6, who
starts talking to him about the 2002s he used to own and enjoy. Any chance
it was someone on the list?
Rick
*local convenience store
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WmsRbt at aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 07:41:46 EST
Subject: listquest-old Healey topics
All
Does anyone know what happened to listquest.com? I used to use it to search
old Healey topics that had been covered in the past as I needed them, but
listquest doesn't seem to want to load these days (not in a long while, as a
matter of fact). Does anyone know of another way to research old messages on
the healey board about specific topics?
Thanks in advance,
Robert
66BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 06:54:58 -0600
Subject: Re: su carburetter rebuilds
chris kellner in coppell, tx. but only if you want them to look as well as
perform like new.
address and phone number under nov activity at www.ntahc.org
Lance Werner wrote:
>
>
> Hi all:
> Who would be the best bet to have my bn1 carbs rebuilt by?
> lance
> 54 bn1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 06:59:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Healeys & Bimmers
i'm trying to figure out to get that twilight zone music into my email.
HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Just when we were talking about stories from former Healey owners, this
> happens:
>
> My son in college in Philly tells me that while driving up to the local WaWa*
> in his beater BMW 2002, he meets up with a guy driving a green 100-6, who
> starts talking to him about the 2002s he used to own and enjoy. Any chance
> it was someone on the list?
>
> Rick
> *local convenience store
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DRKTYME at aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 08:48:56 EST
Subject: Re: listquest-old Healey topics
Here are the phone numbers for Listquest.
902.453.0700
800.701.7774
Every time I have called they have either restored service or given me an
estimate of the down time. Last time it was a virus problem.
I talked to Colin last time and he was very helpful.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Relick <RRelick at houston.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 11:07:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Pickup
Believe it or not, I actually got it open. I used a "white" coat hanger which
is a little thinner than a regular coat hanger. I bent the tip about a quarter
inch and forced it into the pickup tube so it could get around the bend..
After pushing it in and out and turning the tank over to dump about a pencil
eraser amount of durt/rust out each time, after about doing this 10 times I
blew some compressed air in and it finally blew through. I poured a small cup
of gas into the tube and instead of just sitting there, it went right through.
Now, what's the preferred method on cleaning out the rust and sealing? It's
really not too bad from what I can see.
Thanks to all.
Bob
67 BJ8
tom felts wrote:
> Years ago I took mine to a person who workes on gas tanks. He cut the line
> out of the tank--Safely---. I took the sock filter off--which was badly
> clogged, and never put it back on. Re-welded the line back to the tank.
> Added an outside in-line filter--no more problems.
>
> tom
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Relick <RRelick@houston.rr.com>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, October 27, 2001 3:06 PM
> Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Pickup
>
> >
> >Pulled my tank because I wasn't getting enough gas to the carbs and
> discovered my problem is
> >the same as Alan's. I cleaned out the fitting as best as I could but with
> the tank on edge,
> >the gas just sits in the opening of the pickup tube and does not flow back
> into the tank. Any
> >suggestions as to how to clean out the tube and over come this dilemma?
> >Thanks
> >Bob
> >67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bradley H. Simmons" <email at bighealeys.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 11:45:32 -0600
Subject: Re: [SU Carburetor Rebuilding]
Dear Lance,
While I am unable to offer a reference personally, I have
received many recommendations from individuals whose
opinions I respect for Burlen Fuel Systems; furthermore,
they are a "Manufacturer, Distributor, and Retailer of SU
and Zenith Carburetors and Pumps", which, in my opinion,
qualifies them quite well to refurbish SU Carburetors.
International postage with USPS is quite reasonable, as
long as you are not pressed for time; priority with FedEx
or UPS is somewhat pricey.
Finally, I somehow feel obligated to send one of the
components "home" for renewal.
BURLEN FUEL SYSTEMS
Spitfire House, Castle Road
Salisbury, SP1 SSA
Whiltshire, England
telephone: 01722 412500
facsimile: 01722 334221
email: info@burlen.co.uk
web: www.burlen.co.uk
DISCLAIMER: I have no interest financial or otherwise in the
aforementioned ...
Regards,
Bradley H. Simmons
Montgomery, Alabama
1958 100-6, Series BN6
Lance Werner wrote:
>
> Hi all:
> Who would be the best bet to have my bn1 carbs rebuilt by?
> lance
> 54 bn1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 20:23:45 +0000
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
John - and list,
I too have an early car; a BN4 built late March 57, so very definitely
Abingdon - it has the prop on the driver's side (right ). The prop is I
believe original, the bonnet is not - it is ally and craesed, but not
the way that the Healeys intended, through lack of rigidity.
Peter Dzwig
John Peak wrote:
>Hi Guys,
>
>Interesting comments regarding the apparent random fitting of the creased
>bonnet on 100/6 cars. That explains the lack of change points listed for
>this distinctive feature.
>Speaking of change points, my early BN4 has the bonnet prop on the right
>hand side. All the references I have (Moss, Clausager, Anderson/Moment)
>indicate that it should be on the left side as the change point for this is
>the begining of the second batch of BN4s. I assumed that I had a bonnet
>from a later car. However, when removing the paint I noticed that the body
>number was stamped on the left side hinge bracket. Guess what? It matched
>the body number on the firewall (and the BMIHT Cert.)! Could the experts be
>wrong? Comments?
>
>Cheers,
>John '58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 20:25:14 +0000
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
Yeah OK - that should have been Longbridge!!!!!
Peter Dzwig
John Peak wrote:
>Hi Guys,
>
>Interesting comments regarding the apparent random fitting of the creased
>bonnet on 100/6 cars. That explains the lack of change points listed for
>this distinctive feature.
>Speaking of change points, my early BN4 has the bonnet prop on the right
>hand side. All the references I have (Moss, Clausager, Anderson/Moment)
>indicate that it should be on the left side as the change point for this is
>the begining of the second batch of BN4s. I assumed that I had a bonnet
>from a later car. However, when removing the paint I noticed that the body
>number was stamped on the left side hinge bracket. Guess what? It matched
>the body number on the firewall (and the BMIHT Cert.)! Could the experts be
>wrong? Comments?
>
>Cheers,
>John '58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 19:49:53 -0500
Subject: RE: Carb rebuilders
Try Joe Curto in Queens, NY. 718-762-SUSU.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Lance Werner
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 5:05 AM
To: Healey E-mail list
Subject:
Hi all:
Who would be the best bet to have my bn1 carbs rebuilt by?
lance
54 bn1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 18:36:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Paint and the EPA
Hi -
The only real advantage to using lacquer paints is
that they "lay" very well, allowing even the novice
painter to get a very nice, mirror like finish (also
lacquer, when newly laid, has "depth" in the finish).
Other than that, lacquer paint has few, if any
advantages - the worst of which is a short lifespan in
sunny climates.
Most of the modern paints ARE more expensive, and cost
more to apply, but at the end of the day are better
for the environment & typically last alot longer than
lacquer. Applying 7-10 coats with color sanding will
take care of any issues associated with "orange
peeling" that the modern paints have ... although will
add to the cost.
I hope that most will choose to use modern paints that
have less of an effect on the environment when at all
possible.
By the way, I'm sure there's some strong
dissagreements here with some people about
safety/environment, but I've had phenomenal long-term
results with waterborne urethanes on my BJ8....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc@blazenet.net> wrote:
>
> "Bradley H. Simmons" wrote:
>
> > I have been told that automotive lacquer paint has
> > been banned in the US and that only NOS is
> available
> > "while supplies last"; I consider the individual a
> > reliable source, but would appreciate conformation
> > and recommended alternatives from anyone who would
> > be kind enough to respond.
> >
> > All responses are, as always, greatly appreciated.
> >
> > P.S. I hesitate to incur the wrath of the
> > environmentalists, but, the same
> individual
> > suggested that paints could be bought from
> > Mexico ...
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Bradley
> > '58 BN6
>
> Bradley,
>
> I recently called one of the local PPG dealers who
> told me that lacquer is still
> produced in small quantities for the restorer but
> will not be sold to large body
> shops for production type work. Probably other
> manufacturers also make it. I
> have not, however, actually tried to buy any yet.
>
> Also check http://www.williamwolf.com which is a
> paint supplier somewhere in Ohio
> that carries lacquer. They also carry nitrocellulose
> lacquer which I've been told
> is like STP in viscosity and must be thinned
> considerably.
>
> Charlie Baldwin
> '62BT7
> York, PA
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 22:20:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: missing overdrive parts
Gents,
I have the opportunity to buy an A-type overdrive in kit form. it
looks like its mostly there but looking at the new price of what's
mising makes me shiver (?).
So if you have A-type bits and pieces that you consider parting with,
please get on touch with me off-line.
- cam and pump
- unidirectional clutch assembly
- accumulator springs
- solenoid bracket
is part of my wish list
Tanks in advance
Francois, fwildi@as.arizona.edu
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Doug Ingram" <dougi at home.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 22:48:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Pickup
Bob:
You've got the tank out, so I'd suggest doing a complete job. Assuming the
tank is structurally sound, a good external rust removal and paint job, and
a proper cleaning and sealing of the internals should give you no trouble
for years. To do the inside, use one of the kits sold by Eastwood, Moss,
Hirsch, and others. These include an acid wash, etching, and sealant. I've
done a few - it's quite easy to get good results.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
1958 Sprite (AN5L/636)
1963 Sprite Mk II project (HAN7L/30003)
1987 Jaguar XJ6 VdP
and looking for just the right BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Relick <RRelick@houston.rr.com>
To: tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net>; Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Pickup
>
> snip
> Now, what's the preferred method on cleaning out the rust and sealing?
It's
> really not too bad from what I can see.
> Thanks to all.
> Bob
> 67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 19:23:01 +1100
Subject: Re: Paint and the EPA
What Alan says about ease of use is true, also it is true that modern 2-pack
paints
are far more durable.
*However*, they are much more difficult to handle safely. If you plan to use
them, you
should use a fresh-air system and be fully covered to prevent skin contact.
If you are prone to shooting an orange-peel finish, stick with acrylic since
even a poor
finish off the gun can be sanded and polished to a satisfactory finish. If you
don't have
the safety gear, you should also stick with acrylic.
all IMHO of course...
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "One.Proud.American" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Charlie Baldwin" <ewsinc@blazenet.net>; "Bradley H. Simmons"
<email@bighealeys.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 1:36 PM
Subject: Re: Paint and the EPA
>
> Hi -
>
> The only real advantage to using lacquer paints is
> that they "lay" very well, allowing even the novice
> painter to get a very nice, mirror like finish (also
> lacquer, when newly laid, has "depth" in the finish).
> Other than that, lacquer paint has few, if any
> advantages - the worst of which is a short lifespan in
> sunny climates.
>
> Most of the modern paints ARE more expensive, and cost
> more to apply, but at the end of the day are better
> for the environment & typically last alot longer than
> lacquer. Applying 7-10 coats with color sanding will
> take care of any issues associated with "orange
> peeling" that the modern paints have ... although will
> add to the cost.
>
> I hope that most will choose to use modern paints that
> have less of an effect on the environment when at all
> possible.
>
> By the way, I'm sure there's some strong
> dissagreements here with some people about
> safety/environment, but I've had phenomenal long-term
> results with waterborne urethanes on my BJ8....
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 18:48:06 +1000
Subject: Re: No Healey Content - Mini Cooper - But Fun
My job involves working within the docks area here in Brisbane, Queensland,
Australia. Last week I was watching cars being unloaded from a ship and
among the usual Japanese, Korean and Malaysian cars was a UK registered
Morgan and a half-dozen new minis. And of course one had to die in the
gateway out of the wharf, had to be pushed aside. Some things are still the
same.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 01:01:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: No Healey Content - Mini Cooper - But Fun
Greg -
I suspect the points on the bosch fuel pump burned
out. A few taps with a knock off hammer should get it
running pronto.... ;-)
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au> wrote:
>
> My job involves working within the docks area here
> in Brisbane, Queensland,
> Australia. Last week I was watching cars being
> unloaded from a ship and
> among the usual Japanese, Korean and Malaysian cars
> was a UK registered
> Morgan and a half-dozen new minis. And of course one
> had to die in the
> gateway out of the wharf, had to be pushed aside.
> Some things are still the
> same.
>
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From GMari58175 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 06:00:28 EST
Subject: Re: 2002 Encounter Place, Dates
Greetings,
Encounter 2002 will be held in Princeton, NJ.Home of Princeton NJ. The North
Jersey region f the AHSTC is putting together a terrific schedule of events
including Concours. Spread the word! Thanks for asking.
george marinos
Sprite HAN6MKII
glen rock, nj
> Would someone please tell me the place (city and state) of the 2002
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 09:00:14 -0500
Subject: Re: No Healey Content - Mini Cooper - But Fun
Nice to think that the real character of the Original Mini has been
retained in the New Mini. :-D
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 11:22:32 -0500
Subject: Garage floor painting
Folks,
I know this was covered in the past, but I'm now looking at painting
the
garage floor now that it has aged long enough (1 1/2 yrs).
I am looking at sealing/painting my 25x25 garage. Problem is being in
NH am I too late to do a non heated garage (temp today is 55day, 30
nite)? Also, I have a couple settlement cracks that are not wide, but want
to make sure they fill in.
Who has had what type of luck with what brands? Am I too late for the
season and should I wait till spring?
Mike B
59 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 11:47:19
Subject: Penrite Oil Distributor
Please forgive me of my outright commercialism and I will keep it short.
I am now the authorized stock list (distributor) of Penrite Oil Products in
the United States and North America. I have a limited supply of products
at present with a second shipment to fill in most of their products is on
the way.
Please contact me off the list as follows for pricing and availability.
Jon F. McLeroy
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx, 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
Thank you
Jon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 13:17:28 EST
Subject: Re: Creased Bonnet
In a message dated 10/27/01 5:41:51 AM, johnepeak@hotmail.com writes:
<< Interestingly, this same car is shown with the later style top frame and
rear quarter panels although it has the early armrest and sidescreen mounts
(page 70). Could this change have been earlier also or was this car
incorrectly restored? I am not trying to pick apart the work of those who
have gone to all the trouble of researching information on our cars, I just
want to restore my car as correctly as possible. >>
John -- This would be tough to determine. It is certainly reasonable, given
that your car would have been begun at Jensen's during the planning for the
transition, that it could have gotten a mixture of old and new parts as they
implemented the changeover.
On the other hand, if it has been restored and you don't have any info about
the appearance of the car before the restoration, it is also possible that
the restorer used what was available to replace missing or unusable stuff.
Other than looking at photos of your own car before it was restored, the only
other way would be to find cars with body numbers very near yours that
haven't been restored to see how they were equipped.
In any case, I don't think I would bother trying to go back to get the older
components at this stage since the car was definitely a transition car. If
you should get the car judged for concours -- just tell the judges where it
differs from what is "right" and why you're uncertain about your car. Under
our rules, if the owner knows what's "wrong" and has good reason for it to be
that way, that's usually sufficient for the judges to not deduct for it.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 08:55:06 +1100
Subject: RE: No Healey Content - Mini Cooper - But Fun
G'day
Yes it might have been the Bosch fuel pump. However it was raining in
Brisbane last week and some water probably found its way into the electrics
of the new Mini and it stalled.
It makes me feel warm inside knowing that somethings never change.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
1970 Mini Van and past owner of nine Minis ( and a bad back from bending
over them for so long)
-----Original Message-----
From: One.Proud.American [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 8:01 PM
To: Greg Bankin; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: No Healey Content - Mini Cooper - But Fun
Greg -
I suspect the points on the bosch fuel pump burned
out. A few taps with a knock off hammer should get it
running pronto.... ;-)
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au> wrote:
>
> My job involves working within the docks area here
> in Brisbane, Queensland,
> Australia. Last week I was watching cars being
> unloaded from a ship and
> among the usual Japanese, Korean and Malaysian cars
> was a UK registered
> Morgan and a half-dozen new minis. And of course one
> had to die in the
> gateway out of the wharf, had to be pushed aside.
> Some things are still the
> same.
>
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 09:00:38 +1100
Subject: RE: Penrite Oil Distributor
G'day Jon
As an avid user of Penrite products I applaud you appointment.
For those who don't know Penrite Lubricants are produced specially for older
motor vehicles. They cover the whole range including pre WW1 right up to a
range of oils for cars of the fifties, sixties and seventies. They even make
an oil for SU dashpots.
Penrite is also a family business who own older cars and actively support
the old car movement around the world and the products are made here in
Australia. Their marketing manager owns a BN4.
No I don't have any shares but just like the product especially as it's made
in Australia.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Jon McLeroy [mailto:jfm@ballistic.com]
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 10:47 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Penrite Oil Distributor
Please forgive me of my outright commercialism and I will keep it short.
I am now the authorized stock list (distributor) of Penrite Oil Products in
the United States and North America. I have a limited supply of products
at present with a second shipment to fill in most of their products is on
the way.
Please contact me off the list as follows for pricing and availability.
Jon F. McLeroy
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx, 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
Thank you
Jon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From GMari58175 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 17:03:17 EST
Subject: Part Number ID
Greetings List,
Can anyone help me identify what car the following part number goes to?
Have an NOS one of these and need help figuring out what it goes to. Also,
is it a tool bag, or tonneau bag? Seems too small for side curtains. Heres
what I know and really appreciate any assistance.
regards,
george marinos
Part # - AHH 009276
Desc. B2 Stowage bag
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Meemeb at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 18:32:51 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Fluids
Can anyone comment on the recommended appropriate lubricants for a Healey
3000. Specifically the steering box, steering idler box, rear end,
transmission with overdrive, and SU carbs. Thanks.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 19:12:05 -0500
Subject: New bumper overrider
Listers, this is a for sale ad so delete now if offended.
I meant to send this out on the recent chroming thread but got sidetracked.
FOR SALE: one reproduction bumper override for a 6 cyl car. Excellent, new,
never used. Best offer over $15 by the end of the day Nov 2 gets it.
Shipping additional from 23602 in the US.
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BigHealey64 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 19:18:16 EST
Subject: BJ8 for sale
Listers -
I have to sell my 64 BJ8. For those interested, it's in the Boston area.
I'll keep it on the road for about two more weeks.
I've had it since 1976, and it is time for some rust eradication. With no
decent garage space, this type of work does not really make sense. It's
time to pass the car along to someone else.
Brief description: Red over black, original color was red. Mostly original
equipment, with some modifications including 24 Hr. LeMans headlights. Mouse
holes in top. Good tonneau cover. Rust in floor. Outriggers shot. Runs
well. OD works. Stops fairly well. Spare parts include distributor, wiper
motor, clutch plate, water pump and others. Haynes and Bentley manuals.
Contact me if you are interested.
Randy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 20:24:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Fluids
90W gear oil for the steering gearbox and idler, 90W gear oil (hypoid type)
for the rear end, 30W non-detergent for transmission and overdrive, and I
use the 30W non-detergent in the SU carbs, too. I've tried automatic
transmission fluid in the carbs as well, but didn't see any difference
compared with using the 30W.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Meemeb@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 6:32 PM
Subject: Re: Healey Fluids
>
> Can anyone comment on the recommended appropriate lubricants for a Healey
> 3000. Specifically the steering box, steering idler box, rear end,
> transmission with overdrive, and SU carbs. Thanks.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 18:32:15 -0800
Subject: No Healey content, but important
Sorry for hitting the list with non-Healey content, but I think this is
important.
Last Wednesday I returned home after eight days in the hospital for a colon
resection
to remove a large polyp (5 cm!), found during a long-avoided
colonoscopy. Fortunately,
the polyp is non-malignant, but would very possibly have changed the longer
it was in
there. Had I had the colonoscopy done at the recommended early age of
50-55, they
probably would have found a small polyp, snipped it off internally, and I
would have
gone on with nothing worse to look forward to than a repeat of the
procedure in a few
years. It doesn't hurt (you're asleep), doesn't take much time, and can
save you much
trouble. Not having it done is like driving around without using your
seatbelt; maybe
nothing will happen, but if it does...
I guess the bottom line, friends, is do all you can to take care of your
health so we can
continue to enjoy our cars and each other.
I am now very much looking forward to getting my car ready for the trip to
Open Roads
2002 in Tahoe. See you there.
Robert D. Hughes
65 BJ8
60 AN5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 09:01:10 -0500
Subject: Obscure Healey Question: Bolts in the Passenger Footwell
I'm reassembling my BJ7 and wonder: There appears to be two bolts which fit
into the top panel of the passenger footwell on the far right side. The
threaded end of the bolts fit into welded nuts and is visible from the
engine compartment (without fenders), and seem to be painted the same color
as the car. I am working from pictures from British Car Specialist
(excellent investment - no financial connection here) -- and can see only
that the bolts are there, but cannot see what they are securing to the
chassis.
Question: what are these bolts for? My car is a left hand drive, so there
is no gas pedal assembly in the right hand footwell. Are these bolts just
put in place to fill the holes where a RHD gas pedal would go?
If this makes no sense to anyone, I'll post the picture. This isn't
critical but is a puzzle.
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 06:34:39 -0800
Subject: Union overflow pipes at manifold
Healey World,
I am in need of the two union connections at the front and rear underside of
the intake manifold. These would have received two copper 2 foot long
skinny overflow pipes similar in size to the vacuum advance. Does anybody
have either new or old sets for sale? The catalogs I have list these unions
as NA. Or can someone tell me if a plumbing supply house would carry these
in brass or ? Thanks.
dp
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N0040 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 09:50:00 EST
Subject: Brake Lines for AH3000 BJ8
Hello Everyone,
Does anyone have an another source of BJ8 brake lines?
Moss only sells by entire set, and V-B only sells with male by male ends. To
get to female by male, you need two adapters. Does anyone sell the correct
lines for "front hose to caliper", 8" - 9" female x male ?
Thanks
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 09:08:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Brake Lines for AH3000 BJ8
Hi Bob
You can obtain these from 18G Motorworks (Doug Reid) in
Catonsville, Maryland, phone 410-869-0606 or fax 410-869-0707 or
e-mail MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
N0040@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone,
> Does anyone have an another source of BJ8 brake lines?
> Moss only sells by entire set, and V-B only sells with male by male ends. To
> get to female by male, you need two adapters. Does anyone sell the correct
> lines for "front hose to caliper", 8" - 9" female x male ?
> Thanks
> Bob - BJ8
> Milford, MI
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at erols.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 02:38:53 -0500
Subject: Healey Brake Lines
Bob, try Classic Tubing.
Regards , M Shepard BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 07:11:39 -0800
Subject: RE: Brake Lines for AH3000 BJ8
Bob-
I read in a Healey Club Magazine, I can't remember the chapter, that there
is a place called, "Big Healey Fuel and Brake Lines at 18G Motorworks". I
made note of it for future use but have not contacted them or heard anything
about them to date. Their number however, if you'd like to give them a shot
is: 410-869-0606. I think the ad's prices seemed pretty reasonable
although I don't want to quote the price I have in my head because I could
be mistaken. Good luck!
Matt-
'61 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of N0040@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 6:50 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Brake Lines for AH3000 BJ8
Hello Everyone,
Does anyone have an another source of BJ8 brake lines?
Moss only sells by entire set, and V-B only sells with male by male ends. To
get to female by male, you need two adapters. Does anyone sell the correct
lines for "front hose to caliper", 8" - 9" female x male ?
Thanks
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 11:17:33 EST
Subject: Re: Obscure Healey Question: Bolts in the Passenger Footwell
They are for the gas pedal on the right hand drive cars.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 08:31:16 -0800
Subject: RE: Brake Lines for AH3000 BJ8
Alternatively, you can make your own lines. You'll need some brake
line, which you can get in 25' rolls at a good auto parts store and a
double flaring tool.
Most American cars have double flares on their brake lines, but the
Healey has an ISO or bubble flare - I can't remember what its called
offhand. You can reproduce this flare reasonably well with a double
flaring tool by only completing the first step of the double flare
process.
Bill W.
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Brake Lines for AH3000 BJ8
>
> Does anyone have an another source of BJ8 brake lines?
> Moss only sells by entire set, and V-B only sells with male
> by male ends. To
> get to female by male, you need two adapters. Does anyone
> sell the correct
> lines for "front hose to caliper", 8" - 9" female x male ?
> Thanks
> Bob - BJ8
> Milford, MI
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 09:42:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Union overflow pipes at manifold
Moss has em--p 75, item 32 pn 794-020 $12.95 each with pipe, which is
integral (they're mild steel). Moss has a great interactive website at
www.mossmotors.com where you can find them if you don't have a catalog.
They're under Manifolds, 100-6, 3000 (6-port, twin carb).
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "Dwight Patten" <pattend@nortelnetworks.com>
>
> Healey World,
> I am in need of the two union connections at the front and rear underside of
> the intake manifold. These would have received two copper 2 foot long
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 13:41:45 EST
Subject: Re: Obscure Healey Question: Bolts in the Passenger Footwell
In a message dated 10/30/01 6:06:42 AM, ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com writes:
<<
Question: what are these bolts for? My car is a left hand drive, so there
is no gas pedal assembly in the right hand footwell. Are these bolts just
put in place to fill the holes where a RHD gas pedal would go?
If this makes no sense to anyone, I'll post the picture. This isn't
critical but is a puzzle.
Ryan
BJ7 >>
There are a couple of unused, but threaded holes on the engine side of the
passenger footwell. As noted, they're just filled with appropriately-size
bolts. Similarly, you'll see some unthreaded holes that are filled with solid
rubber grommets. As you've guessed, both sets of holes are for the necessary
connections for components of a right-hand drive car (for example, some of
them are for the necessary brackets to mount the brake/clutch reservoir which
goes up in that area on a RHD car.) Since the car would have been painted
before any components were mounted, the bolts and rubber grommets shouldn't
be painted.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 14:55:41 -0500
Subject: Automotive Paint Stripper
Hi,
I was just wondering whether anyone has information on Auto Paint
Strippers that are more environmentally friendly than the usual stuff
that is available.
Thanks,
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 21:41:25 -0800
Subject: BN4 Grille
Hi,
What does the bottom of the grille on a BN4 attach to? Should there be
brackets on the lower shroud or is it held in place by the air deflector?
How does the air deflector attach? I am missing these parts.
Thanks,
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 04:52:01 -0600
Subject: Re: BN4 Grille
there are 3 brackets with captive nuts riveted to the lower inside rear shroud.
the air deflector as well as the stabilizers for the inner fender mudshields
attach to these outer brackets. kilmartin probably makes these.
John Peak wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
> What does the bottom of the grille on a BN4 attach to? Should there be
> brackets on the lower shroud or is it held in place by the air deflector?
> How does the air deflector attach? I am missing these parts.
>
> Thanks,
> John
> '58 BN4
>
> _________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WmsRbt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 06:53:59 EST
Subject: transmission problem
Hi all,
I know someone can give me some direction on this problem with my trans.
Shifting up, on occassion I have had difficulty getting into third. 95% of
the time, no problem, but occassionally it is like I "miss" third gear. More
troubling and more frequently, sometimes when down-shifting from fourth, I
can't get into second or third, or sometimes i can't get it into just
second... I've had to start of in third on rare occassion because at a dead
stop I could not get into second or first... OD works fine.
Can I get some guidance from anyone on this? And thank you all in advance.
It is a tremendous relief having such a wonderful pool of Healey-knowledge so
readily available and willing to help.
Thanks
Robert
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 07:30:50 -0600
Subject: Resent,: Big Healey Help
Sorry listers,
Some how I just fell off the list back on Oct. 20th and didn't know it.
How does that happen?
Anyway I'm resending this for review because I don't know if it made it
to the list the first time.
Thanks for your patience, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 10:01 PM
Subject: Big Healey Help
> Listers,
> Can some of you "wiser than I" big healey owners bring me up to date
> on the problems with the 100-6 transmissions and why I should or should
not
> use one in my 3000.
> I believe these are referred to as the reverse helix gear boxes, where a
few
> of the gears are actually cut in the opposite direction than those of a
3000
> gear box.
>
> Thanks in advance, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 08:03:41 -0500
Subject: Fw: Union overflow pipes at manifold
Subject: Re: Union overflow pipes at manifold
> Just be sure that you also have a small tubing bender so that when you fit
> them, you do not crimp them. There are several bends that have to be made
to
> fit them down to a clear point so that any overflow goes to the ground
> rather than tonto engine or frame parts.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
> To: "Dwight Patten" <pattend@nortelnetworks.com>; "Healeys"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 12:42 PM
> Subject: Re: Union overflow pipes at manifold
>
>
> >
> > Moss has em--p 75, item 32 pn 794-020 $12.95 each with pipe, which is
> > integral (they're mild steel). Moss has a great interactive website at
> > www.mossmotors.com where you can find them if you don't have a catalog.
> > They're under Manifolds, 100-6, 3000 (6-port, twin carb).
> > --
> > Steve Gerow
> > Pasadena CA
> > 59 BN6
> >
> > > From: "Dwight Patten" <pattend@nortelnetworks.com>
> > >
> > > Healey World,
> > > I am in need of the two union connections at the front and rear
> underside of
> > > the intake manifold. These would have received two copper 2 foot long
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 07:52:10 -0600
Subject: RE: transmission problem
Robert,
I've experienced, in the past, some of the trouble you mentioned. I
replaced the hose from the slave cylinder, rebuilt the slave cylinder and
then made sure the system was properly bleed. If this was never done on
your car it's something that should be done. It's also a good place to start
before ripping out major components. If the hydraulic hose at the slave
cylinder is bad, it's hard to tell and will make shifting more difficult.
PS. remember also that these cars are not synchromesh, and your speed needs
to be greatly reduced to get into first or second.
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: WmsRbt@aol.com [mailto:WmsRbt@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 6:54 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: transmission problem
Hi all,
I know someone can give me some direction on this problem with my trans.
Shifting up, on occassion I have had difficulty getting into third. 95% of
the time, no problem, but occassionally it is like I "miss" third gear.
More
troubling and more frequently, sometimes when down-shifting from fourth, I
can't get into second or third, or sometimes i can't get it into just
second... I've had to start of in third on rare occassion because at a dead
stop I could not get into second or first... OD works fine.
Can I get some guidance from anyone on this? And thank you all in advance.
It is a tremendous relief having such a wonderful pool of Healey-knowledge
so
readily available and willing to help.
Thanks
Robert
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 09:19:32 -0500
Subject: Wire Wheels
I just purchased a 1959 BT7. It came with 48 spoke wheels but I intend to
upgrade to the stronger 60 spoke wheels if possible. But I have read
conflicting information about the use of 60 spoke wire wheels for the car.
Apparently the 60 spoke wheels do not work on the front because of the disk
brakes unless a spacer is used. But the 48 or 72 spoke wheels do.
Any advice/thoughts?
Secondly, the car originally came with a thermostatic choke (i.e., no manual
choke). The original choke has been removed and a manual choke fitted. Since
I am presently restoring the car, I intend to attach the choke as fitted to
the very early 3000 cars or the 100-6 cars.
So the question is: did the choke on these earlier cars attach to the parcel
shelf bracket or to the facia support which is just above the right knee?
Larry Swift
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.286 / Virus Database: 152 - Release Date: 10/9/01
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 09:24:30 -0600
Subject: Re: transmission problem
Robert,
The main cause for shifting difficulties in Healey gearboxes is failure of
the throwout bearing to move the pressure plate far enough for the disc to
completely disengage. This can be caused by two factors: the throwout
bearing surface has worn down too far, or the clutch hydraulics are not
working right. The clutch hydraulics are the easiest to check. Once you
have established beyond a doubt that the hydraulics are working OK the
throwout bearing is the likely culprit.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <WmsRbt@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 5:53 AM
Subject: transmission problem
>
> Hi all,
>
> I know someone can give me some direction on this problem with my trans.
>
> Shifting up, on occassion I have had difficulty getting into third. 95%
of
> the time, no problem, but occassionally it is like I "miss" third gear.
More
> troubling and more frequently, sometimes when down-shifting from fourth, I
> can't get into second or third, or sometimes i can't get it into just
> second... I've had to start of in third on rare occassion because at a
dead
> stop I could not get into second or first... OD works fine.
>
> Can I get some guidance from anyone on this? And thank you all in
advance.
> It is a tremendous relief having such a wonderful pool of Healey-knowledge
so
> readily available and willing to help.
>
> Thanks
>
> Robert
> BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 11:11:04 EST
Subject: Re: Wire Wheels
The 60 spoke wheels should fit fine on a disc brake car, there is a problem
with the spokes hitting on a drum brake car with the 60 spoke wheels.
The choke on the early 6 cylinder cars was attached to the dash support on
the drivers side just above the knee, there was a bracket attached to the
support that the cable was attached to.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 08:34:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Advice Sought on Potential Healey Purchase
Please respond directly to Ian. In other words, hitting the REPLY button
will not reach him....
------------------
Hello,
While waiting for my membership on the Healey list to be approved, I must
try to get a few answers about a Mark II I'm considering buying. (Actually,
I guess it's a Mark IIa since it has 2 carbs?) The car has just been sold
to a local dealer and I spoke with the man who sold it and presumably no
longer has a financial interest. The long-time owner says: He owned the
car for 30 years after buying it from an employee in 1971 for $175. He
drove it onto a trailer in '71 and stored it, intending one day to restore
it completely. Six months ago, he took it to a mechanic with several
hundred dollars worth of parts and arranged to get it running again. The
mechanic promised to keep it inside. When he finally went to to see it, he
found it outside, under a shed with a cover on it. There was water in the
interior, the seats were ruined and very front of the floor pans are, of
course, rusted through. Otherwise, he says, it had a "soft" first gear that
made noise, the rear end had been replaced by the original owner and he's
sure all the rubber on the car needs to be replaced. He maintains it has
never been wrecked. He sold it to a local dealer, with all the parts, for
$3000.
I made a quick inspection today and the car looks very straight. there
appears to be considerable surface rust on the bottom, but everything i
could reach felt solid--with the exception of the floors. Paint is actually
pretty good--faded enough to be original, but no bubbles. The dealer has
already stripped the interior and the sheet metal looks surprisingly solid
with the exception of the floor pan. The car seems complete--gauges,
bumpers, top, trim--but no wire wheels. It has obviously been neglected for
a very long time.
The dealer is trying to decide whether to clean it up and get it running
before putting it on his lot or selling it as is. I told him I would only
be interested as-is. My gut feeling is that he will probably want in the
vicinity of $5,000 for the car if he sells as-is. I would not, of course,
buy the car without a much more thorough examination.
I have recently brought a TR6 off its knees and two buddies on the same
street with TR6s. I enjoy working on British cars and feel ready to move up
to a more serious restoration. How does $5,000 sound. What do straight,
never-wrecked Mark IIa sell for these days?
Always have loved big Healeys, but I don't want to be taken to the cleaners.
Any advice either on or off list would be greatly appreciated as I may be
faced with a decision soon.
thanks very much.
Ian McLeod (aimcleod@bellsouth.net
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 12:06:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Wire Wheels
Larry: With disc brakes, you are ok with 60 spoke wheels. In fact, some
BJ7's came from the factory with 60 spokers, and they have essentially the
same brakes as your BT7. It's the earlier cars with drums on front that can
be a problem.
The choke fastens to the the facia support near the steering column.
Good Luck
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 9:19 AM
Subject: Wire Wheels
>
> I just purchased a 1959 BT7. It came with 48 spoke wheels but I intend to
> upgrade to the stronger 60 spoke wheels if possible. But I have read
> conflicting information about the use of 60 spoke wire wheels for the car.
> Apparently the 60 spoke wheels do not work on the front because of the
disk
> brakes unless a spacer is used. But the 48 or 72 spoke wheels do.
>
> Any advice/thoughts?
>
> Secondly, the car originally came with a thermostatic choke (i.e., no
manual
> choke). The original choke has been removed and a manual choke fitted.
Since
> I am presently restoring the car, I intend to attach the choke as fitted
to
> the very early 3000 cars or the 100-6 cars.
>
> So the question is: did the choke on these earlier cars attach to the
parcel
> shelf bracket or to the facia support which is just above the right knee?
>
>
> Larry Swift
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 10:36:02 -0700
Subject: gas overlow pipes
How far below the bracket at the pan gasket should the pipes extend?
Thanks,
Sid 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 12:49:30 -0500
Subject: Other Transmission Problems
I rebuilt my BJ7 Mk II transmission to fix the grinding in 2nd and 3rd gear,
installing new syncromesh brass rings and replaced the bearings. The
shifting now is good, although a bit stiff (requiring a bit of pressure
before the shift goes through for 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears). But the biggest
problem is that it now pops out of 3rd gear, particularly when engine
braking.
Question: Can the popping out of 3rd be fixed by putting small washers as
spacers behind the springs on the sliding hub assembly? (this was
recommended by someone and sounds reasonable). What else could be the
culprit for this ailment?
Should the syncro rings have been 'lapped' before I installed them to make
for easier shifting? What is involved with lapping? I know I've been
accused of 'slurping' my soup :) but I don't know what machine tool is
needed to lap the syncros. They are expensive so I don't want to screw them
up.
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 13:06:19 -0500
Subject: RE: transmission problem
I agree that the clutch hydraulics are a good place to start looking,
especially if this is a recent problem or if it has suddenly gotten
worse. Healey gearboxes are synchronmesh in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, although
the synchronization is a bit weak by modern standards.
A good way to test if your clutch is releasing fully is the following:
- Bring the car to a complete stop with the engine running.
- Put in the clutch and put the car in 2nd gear to stop the spinning
of the gears.
- Without releasing the clutch, try to put the gearbox in reverse.
If the gears grind, your clutch is not releasing fully and the problem
is either the hydraulics or the release bearing.
If the box simply won't go into reverse (i.e. it feels like the shift
lever is hitting an obstruction) it is probably a problem with
the gear teeth not lining up properly. This is normal behavior. Repeat
the above steps and it will most likely engage.
Good luck
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Kocik, Stephen W
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 8:52 AM
To: WmsRbt@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: transmission problem
Robert,
I've experienced, in the past, some of the trouble you mentioned. I
replaced the hose from the slave cylinder, rebuilt the slave cylinder and
then made sure the system was properly bleed. If this was never done on
your car it's something that should be done. It's also a good place to start
before ripping out major components. If the hydraulic hose at the slave
cylinder is bad, it's hard to tell and will make shifting more difficult.
PS. remember also that these cars are not synchromesh, and your speed needs
to be greatly reduced to get into first or second.
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: WmsRbt@aol.com [mailto:WmsRbt@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 6:54 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: transmission problem
Hi all,
I know someone can give me some direction on this problem with my trans.
Shifting up, on occassion I have had difficulty getting into third. 95% of
the time, no problem, but occassionally it is like I "miss" third gear.
More
troubling and more frequently, sometimes when down-shifting from fourth, I
can't get into second or third, or sometimes i can't get it into just
second... I've had to start of in third on rare occassion because at a dead
stop I could not get into second or first... OD works fine.
Can I get some guidance from anyone on this? And thank you all in advance.
It is a tremendous relief having such a wonderful pool of Healey-knowledge
so
readily available and willing to help.
Thanks
Robert
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Vargopack at cs.com
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 14:11:32 EST
Subject: Brake problem
I need some help with a brake problem on my BT7. Earlier this year I went
away on a trip for about a month. On my return when I tried the Healey the
brake pedal went right to floor with almost no resistance. The fluid
reservoir was full and I could see no leaks. I thought it must be an
internal leak in the master cylinder and replaced it assuming I had fixed the
problem. A few months later after another long trip the same thing happened.
This time I bled the system and restored the braking but have the feeling
that the pedal is very slowly (over a period of weeks) getting lower. I am
fairly sure air is entering the system but don't know where. I restored the
car a little more than 3 years ago with new master cylinder, caliper pistons,
light switch and hoses, and rebuilt the rear cylinder. It is a non power
system and have used Castrol LMA brake fluid.
I have look for leaks but have not found any and do not have to add fluid.
Around town the brakes seem fine but am nervous particular on longer trips
about the possibility of failure. Even in good conditions the brakes are
only marginal by today's standard. I would appreciate any thoughts or
suggestions. Thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 14:36:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake problem
One idea would be to check your front wheel bearings. Excessive play
will push the caliper pistons back producing all sorts of weird symptoms
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 11:31:14 -0800
Subject: windshield with tint at the top?
I have to get a new windshield and one that has been offered has tint at the
top 2 inches. That brings up two questions.
If you have tint on your windshield , do you like it or don't even notice?
If you are tall, that top 2 inches are right at the eye level, is the tint
dark enough to cause a distraction?
Jerry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 15:16:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Other Transmission Problems
Ryan,
Shimming the slider springs as you mention is my recommended cure for
popping out of gear, and I usually start with shims .030" thick and work
up from there (if necessary) to get the resistance right. The synchro rings
should be installed as is -- they'll lap themselves soon enough.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 11:49 AM
Subject: Other Transmission Problems
>
> I rebuilt my BJ7 Mk II transmission to fix the grinding in 2nd and 3rd
gear,
> installing new syncromesh brass rings and replaced the bearings. The
> shifting now is good, although a bit stiff (requiring a bit of pressure
> before the shift goes through for 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears). But the
biggest
> problem is that it now pops out of 3rd gear, particularly when engine
> braking.
>
> Question: Can the popping out of 3rd be fixed by putting small washers as
> spacers behind the springs on the sliding hub assembly? (this was
> recommended by someone and sounds reasonable). What else could be the
> culprit for this ailment?
>
> Should the syncro rings have been 'lapped' before I installed them to make
> for easier shifting? What is involved with lapping? I know I've been
> accused of 'slurping' my soup :) but I don't know what machine tool is
> needed to lap the syncros. They are expensive so I don't want to screw
them
> up.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 17:33:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Other Transmission Problems
Hi Ryan,
Although I agree with Doug in that jumping out of gear can often be solved by
increasing the pressure of the slider springs IMHO the real solution is to
correct the underlying cause of the problem. This is usually a failure of the
sliding hub to fully engage on the dog teeth on the gear.
This problem is often due to wear on the tips of the teeth inside the sliding
hub or some problem with the selector system that is limiting the travel of the
hub.
Another possible cause is end play in either the main or input shafts which
allows the gear position to change relative to the case and therefore the
selector forks.
This later problem is particularly common is Sprite gearboxes where one of the
main bearings is just a few thou thicker than the other and if the thinner
(and less expensive) bearing is fitted in the wrong place the box will jump out
of 4th gear every time.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ledwith, Ryan S [FI] wrote:
>I rebuilt my BJ7 Mk II transmission to fix the grinding in 2nd and 3rd gear,
>installing new syncromesh brass rings and replaced the bearings. The
>shifting now is good, although a bit stiff (requiring a bit of pressure
>before the shift goes through for 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears). But the biggest
>problem is that it now pops out of 3rd gear, particularly when engine
>braking.
>
>Question: Can the popping out of 3rd be fixed by putting small washers as
>spacers behind the springs on the sliding hub assembly? (this was
>recommended by someone and sounds reasonable). What else could be the
>culprit for this ailment?
>
>Should the syncro rings have been 'lapped' before I installed them to make
>for easier shifting? What is involved with lapping? I know I've been
>accused of 'slurping' my soup :) but I don't know what machine tool is
>needed to lap the syncros. They are expensive so I don't want to screw them
>up.
>
>Ryan
>BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Beattie, Bob" <bob.beattie at dsto.defence.gov.au>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 09:45:04 +1030
Subject: HELP needed with BN6L
Does anyone have any photos of BN6/BN7 rear interior .I am rebuilding from
the floor up,the rear heelboard is new and I am trying to fit a new battery
cover and the cover side panels.I dont have the original steel inner body,it
was completely rusted out except for the wheel arch's and the steel shroud
supports. Thanks for any help I can get Bob Bt.(Down under OZ)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 18:59:04 EST
Subject: Re: Wire Wheels
Larry,
1. The general advice is that the standard 60 or 72 spoke wires for the Big
Healey will not fit DRUM brake front wheels, but they will fit DISK brake
front wheels. But, you should talk to a wire wheel expert at British Wire
Wheel or Hendrix Wire Wheel and not rely on the list for this question. They
both offer special offset wire wheels, if needed, to fit any Healey. I
bought special offset 72 stainless/chrome wires for my drum brake 100-Six
from BWW six months ago and love them. With my 48 spoke wires, I was
visiting my local wire wheel repair shop every few months to fix broken
spokes, retrue or rebalance. Since I put on the 72 spoke wheels, he has been
as lonely as a Maytag Repairman.
If you are going to upgrade, I recommend going to the 72 spoke wheels. Same
price as the 60s.
2. The driver end of the manual choke cable attaches to a bracket attached to
the fascia support bracket above the right knee.
Best wishes.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 19:15:51 -0500
Subject: RE: Other Transmission Problems
Poping out of third:
While you have the box apart, look at the profile of the
teeth on third gear which engage the sliding hub. Looking
from the outside toward the center line of the shaft, they
should have a profile which looks like the roof of a house:
/\
/ \
/ \
| |
| |
If the two sides of the "roof" are not equal, you may have
excessive wear on these parts. I would suspect that the cure
for this would be to replace both the gear and the sliding hub.
As of three years ago, AH Spares had the sliding hubs new.
I was able to get an NOS third gear from Sports and Classics
(203-655-8731 - you will need to give him the part number from
your laygears so that you get one which matches). The gears are
a bit expensive, but considering the effort you are going to expend
getting the gearbox out of the car and taking it apart you will want to
be certain that you have all of the bugs out of it when you are done.
Lapping the synchros:
I had heard that you should lap the synchros (baulk rings) against
the surface of the gear where they engage using a bit of valve grinding
compound. (Make sure that you get all of it off before you reassemble.)
Another suggestion (from Bruce Phillips) was to break the glaze on the
cone where the gear engages the baulk ring by sanding it with fine
sandpaper (again, clean up the grit before assembling). I did the latter
the last time I had my gearbox apart and it did seem to help.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 12:50 PM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: Other Transmission Problems
I rebuilt my BJ7 Mk II transmission to fix the grinding in 2nd and 3rd gear,
installing new syncromesh brass rings and replaced the bearings. The
shifting now is good, although a bit stiff (requiring a bit of pressure
before the shift goes through for 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears). But the biggest
problem is that it now pops out of 3rd gear, particularly when engine
braking.
Question: Can the popping out of 3rd be fixed by putting small washers as
spacers behind the springs on the sliding hub assembly? (this was
recommended by someone and sounds reasonable). What else could be the
culprit for this ailment?
Should the syncro rings have been 'lapped' before I installed them to make
for easier shifting? What is involved with lapping? I know I've been
accused of 'slurping' my soup :) but I don't know what machine tool is
needed to lap the syncros. They are expensive so I don't want to screw them
up.
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 17:01:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: engine broken in but...
Hi,
It is my pleasure (and relief) to tell that I was able to break in my
self-rebuilt BJ7 engine this morning. Thanks again to those listers
who have helped me with advice.
I ran the engine 25 minutes at 2000-2500 rpm. With the car sitting
and no shroud around the radiator the (indicated) temperature went up
to 220F plus while unfortunately the oil pressure went down to barely
40 psi. At the end of the run I went to 3000 rpm for a few seconds
but the pressure hardly moved up. Because of this I am suspecting the
oil pump by-pass rather than anything else
I carefully checked the gears in the pump during the rebuild and all
clearances where in spec. At start-up the pressure went to 60 psi.
I have a new by-pass spring on the pump but I noticed wear on the oil
pressure valve itself. Could that be the problem?
Francois
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From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 17:13:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Other Transmission Problems
Ryan -
The likely culprit here is when you rebuilt the
gearbox, you lost or misplaced the three little ball
bearings and springs located in the front top lip of
your centre change gear box (located underneath the
gear box top cover on the mating edge). Without these
balls and springs, it'll pop out of second, third, or
fourth depending on which bearing & spring is missing.
Thankfully, this is a relatively easy part to replace,
as you only need to remove the tranmission cover and
the gear box cover lid to get at it and fix.
You might want to try Redline's manual gear box fluid
- it should help your synchros to work better - motor
oil tends to restrict the engagment of the synchros
causing difficult shifting.
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
wrote:
>
> I rebuilt my BJ7 Mk II transmission to fix the
> grinding in 2nd and 3rd gear,
> installing new syncromesh brass rings and replaced
> the bearings. The
> shifting now is good, although a bit stiff
> (requiring a bit of pressure
> before the shift goes through for 2nd, 3rd and 4th
> gears). But the biggest
> problem is that it now pops out of 3rd gear,
> particularly when engine
> braking.
>
> Question: Can the popping out of 3rd be fixed by
> putting small washers as
> spacers behind the springs on the sliding hub
> assembly? (this was
> recommended by someone and sounds reasonable). What
> else could be the
> culprit for this ailment?
>
> Should the syncro rings have been 'lapped' before I
> installed them to make
> for easier shifting? What is involved with lapping?
> I know I've been
> accused of 'slurping' my soup :) but I don't know
> what machine tool is
> needed to lap the syncros. They are expensive so I
> don't want to screw them
> up.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 20:38:26 -0500
Subject: Re: engine broken in but...
Hi Francois,
It is possible but unlikely that the oil pressure relief valve is the
cause of your low oil pressure. I presume that you were using 20/50 oil.
The easiest way to check is to put a couple of washers under the oil
pressure relief valve spring to increase the relief pressure and repeat
the test.
In our experience if the oil pressure drops as the engine warms up the
fault is unlikely to be the relief valve.
More likely to be the more nasty things like cam bearings, rod and main
bearings, rocker shaft, timing chain tensioner, or oil pump.
A new oil pump is probably the best place to start.
Good luck.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 20:01:42 -0600
Subject: Flywheel bolts on BJ8
Can someone please post the length of the flywheel bolts on a BJ8
engine? The bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi. Also, are tab locks used on each
bolt or only on two as suggested in the catalogues.
Thanks in advance.
Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 21:32:46 -0600
Subject: Test
Testing
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 21:47:50 -0800
Subject: Re: BN4 Grille
Hi,
Who is Kilmartin and where can I find Him? Any other possible sources for
the grille to lower shroud brackets? They are not even listed by either the
Moss or VB.
John
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