> in like a geyser when I hit standing water such as a deep puddle.
>
> If the bezels holding the wipers on are loose, water will enter from there
also--check them
tom Felts
65 BJ8
66 E Type OTS
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 12:51:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Silent Horns
Could be with a repro that its thickness is not quite enough for the button
to make contact. I would bend up the prongs on the two halves of the copper
underneath. Reinstall the button and see what happens.
Keith Pennell
> HELP, tourist season beginning soon.
> Having a problem getting the horns to sound by pressing the horn button.
Yet when I remove the button and retaining ring and ground out the plate
underneath, they work great, so there is power at the contact plate. The
wiring diagram shows the button creating a ground, so what could I be
overlooking?? BTW this is a new (repro) trafficator and the signal lights
operate just fine.
>
> Thanks
> Larry Hewlett
> 63 BJ7
> Peachland, B.C.
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From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 10:21:15 -0700
Subject: Door Latch
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 15:32:14 EDT
Subject: 100 carb part
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From DLthm at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 15:41:40 EDT
Subject: Spares
Kind regards
Dave Latham
1953 100/4
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From Meemeb at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 15:45:41 EDT
Subject: Alloy Gas Tank
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 18:17:12 -0700
Subject: ah spares ltd
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 18:31:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Alloy Gas Tank
If you want it to last longer, it is probably a good
idea to paint the tank and repaint your boot floor.
It'll probably last just fine without the paint... but
while everything is out and accessible it's a good
idea to get a good coat of paint on everything. Best
to do everything in your power to prevent galvanic
corrosion...
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Meemeb@aol.com wrote:
> Just received by new alloy gas tank. Is it
> necessary to paint this gas tank
> or can I just install it as is?
> Bernie
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 18:46:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Silent Horns
I'm having a bit of an electrical mental block trying to figure out how the
button is connected to ground in order to create the grounding required??
Probably a simple answer.
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Larry Hewlett" <hewlettlj@shaw.ca>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: Silent Horns
> Larry,
>
> Could be with a repro that its thickness is not quite enough for the
button
> to make contact. I would bend up the prongs on the two halves of the
copper
> underneath. Reinstall the button and see what happens.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
>
> > HELP, tourist season beginning soon.
> > Having a problem getting the horns to sound by pressing the horn button.
> Yet when I remove the button and retaining ring and ground out the plate
> underneath, they work great, so there is power at the contact plate. The
> wiring diagram shows the button creating a ground, so what could I be
> overlooking?? BTW this is a new (repro) trafficator and the signal lights
> operate just fine.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Larry Hewlett
> > 63 BJ7
> > Peachland, B.C.
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 21:48:11 -0700
Subject: Re: ah spares ltd
Bob Denton
James Shope wrote:
> i had ah spares rebuild my laygear and also bought a new first gear from them
> during the rebuild i did about 6 years ago. super nice people, but i got
> nailed big time when i did not specify that surface mail would do fine, and my
> gears came back airmail. mucho bucks and i also had to fight with customs who
> charged me for the repair work on my own laygear. i got them to rescind the
> money, but still had to pay postage because it did not come to my house, but
> to customs in san diego. i decided to use them only as a last resort due to
> customs hassle, etc. healeymanjim 66bj8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 19:01:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: ah spares ltd
I'm interested to hear you had this problem with AH
spares. I've ordered probably 20 different packages
from them over the years and not a single package was
ever held up at customs (my shipping address in N.
California) and ... I had a few very large packages
worth thousands of dollars (ie. including exhaust
sytems etc etc) ... not a single one was ever held up
and I never paid customs on any of it. I think I paid
customs on one large package about 12 years ago
directly to the USPS, but it amounted to something
like 2% of the total order... a fraction of CA state
tax.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James Shope <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com> wrote:
> i had ah spares rebuild my laygear and also bought a
> new first gear from them
> during the rebuild i did about 6 years ago. super
> nice people, but i got
> nailed big time when i did not specify that surface
> mail would do fine, and my
> gears came back airmail. mucho bucks and i also had
> to fight with customs who
> charged me for the repair work on my own laygear. i
> got them to rescind the
> money, but still had to pay postage because it did
> not come to my house, but
> to customs in san diego. i decided to use them only
> as a last resort due to
> customs hassle, etc. healeymanjim 66bj8
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 22:04:14 -0400
Subject: Door Hinges - Alignment Question
To see if the hinges are on the same plane, I took a 1/4" thick piece of
steel and drilled holes that match the top of the hinge (the flat part that
fits against the pillar). I bolted the hinges to the door and then bolted
the hinges to the piece of steel. Both doors show that the top hinge is
tilted up, and that I need to shim the top edge of the hinge so that the
steel piece turns easily.
It seems reasonable that the hinges should be perfectly aligned, both
vertically and horizontally to have the door close correctly. But I'm
wondering: on the pillar, are the seats for the two hinges originally
parallel on a vertical plane? It wouldn't make sense to shim the hinges at
the door if they were then just out of alignment when bolted to the car.
Does anyone have experience here?
Ryan
BAJA
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 22:08:46 EDT
Subject: Re: ah spares ltd
Rick
San Diego
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 12:39:44 +1000
Subject: Re: Alloy Gas Tank
You don't need to paint it - but make sure you put foam under it where it
sits on the boot floor, so the aluminium doesn't wear through.
I polished mine. But I tend to go over the top sometimes....
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/austin_healey_3000_pics_boot.html
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <Meemeb@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 5:45 AM
Subject: Alloy Gas Tank
> Just received by new alloy gas tank. Is it necessary to paint this gas
tank
> or can I just install it as is?
> Bernie
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 14:43:05 +1000
Subject: Re: Chris Dimmock Re: Alloy Gas Tank
I designed the tank myself, drew it up, and got a guy who fabricates stuff
for drag cars to make it for me. When I was doing it, a friend of mine also
wanted one - so I actually got 2 made - the other one is in Don Holland's
car.
I then bought the fuel cell foam from a race supply shop - it comes in
'brick' sized blocks. You put the foam in through the removable panel in the
top of the tank, and there are horizontal and vertical baffles in the tank
to locate the foam.
There is a pickup tank underneath - which is dropped down between the
chassis rails, and that's where the fuel pick up is - to reduce surge.
I got it made about 2 years ago, and it cost about $A850 - $A900 incl the
foam.
When you fit an aluminium tank, you need to ensure that the tank isn't
sitting directly on the steel boot floor - the steel will wear the
aluminium. I used builders foam under the aluminium tank.
Theoretically - you can fit fuel cell foam into any fuel tank - you just
need to cut an access hole into the tank, so that you can put the foam in,
and so that you can take it out and change it after about 7 years (it will
eventually break down). That's how my fuel tank project started......
Hope that helps
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; <Meemeb@aol.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 1:15 PM
Subject: Chris Dimmock Re: Alloy Gas Tank
> Chris -
>
> Did you get that foam filled tank from Cape / Dennis
> welch or did you have that sourced in OZ? If so, how
> much was it? Or did you have someone put the foam in
> the tank? Been thinking of putting them in both my
> healeys for safety's sake. I want to avoid the 1977
> Ford Pinto syndrome...
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
> > Hi Bernie,
> >
> > You don't need to paint it - but make sure you put
> > foam under it where it
> > sits on the boot floor, so the aluminium doesn't
> > wear through.
> >
> > I polished mine. But I tend to go over the top
> > sometimes....
> >
> >
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com/austin_healey_3000_pics_boot.html
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Meemeb@aol.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 5:45 AM
> > Subject: Alloy Gas Tank
> >
> >
> > > Just received by new alloy gas tank. Is it
> > necessary to paint this gas
> > tank
> > > or can I just install it as is?
> > > Bernie
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from order to delivery here on the West Coast. I can't imagine using
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 22:01:36 -0700
Subject: Re: ah spares ltd
The only failure I have ever had with them was the flex fuel line to
the BN1 carb supply pipe. They did their level best, sending me
several different ones over several weeks. I don't hold it against
them. Their website catalog is a tad 'clunky' but I can use it and
find what I need, so AH spares is one of the first sources I check,
right after Moss.
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
On Sun, 1 Jun 2003 18:17:12 -0700, you wrote:
::i had ah spares rebuild my laygear and also bought a new first gear from them
::during the rebuild i did about 6 years ago. super nice people, but i got
::nailed big time when i did not specify that surface mail would do fine, and my
::gears came back airmail. mucho bucks and i also had to fight with customs who
::charged me for the repair work on my own laygear. .... healeymanjim 66bj8
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 22:29:11 -0700
Subject: Re: New Down Pipes
Stainless flex tubing is available as Flexible Tail Pipe in various
diameters in most auto parts stores in my area--Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Kragen,
etc. Short pieces of muffler tubing are available at these places, which can
be used for the clamp-on tip which connects to the muffler.
I carefully ground off the old flex tubing and fitted the new flex tubing in
place on the car, then took it to a welding shop, who brazed it with
nickel-silver brazing rod. When the stainless gets hot, it turns black right
away. Take your time with this and put index marks on the pieces with a
sharpie marker.
Altogether a satisfactory repair which looks as good as stock.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 22:44:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Blue Color
It is difficult to tell exactly what the colors on the cover cars really
are. Further, I do not believe that printers ink has any relationship to
auto paint. My suggestion would be to get some samples sprayed, look at
them in the sunlight, and choose the one that pleases you.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 11:01 AM
Subject: Healey Blue Color
> I'm looking at the cover of Gary and Roger's book Authentic Restoration
Guide
> and I'm trying to compare colors, although difficult, to the chip samples
that
> someone on the list provided a couple of days ago.
>
> I have been interested in painting my BN-2, when its complete, with the
> appropriate color Healey blue for the era. The chip color for ice Blue
> Metallic BU2 looks like the color of the middle Healey on the cover. I'm
more
> interested in the Healey 100 which is closest in the photo and I thought
that
> was the BU-2 color but now I'm not sure.
>
> Can anyone provide me with the colors of these cars that are on the cover?
>
>
> Sincerely
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2 in progress
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 02:29:36 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Wanted - East Coast
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from AH Spares i add one footwell floor panel which when had been cut by
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 01:36:46 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
Subject: Re: ah spares ltd
John Metcalfe
UK
From: Bob Denton
Date: 01 June 2003 19:15:28
To: James Shope
Cc: healeys
Subject: Re: ah spares ltd
I hate to say this but I ordered a bunch of small items and none were quite
correct. They use many of the same replacement parts that Moss and others
use.
And the same thing happened to me on the shipping.
Bob Denton
James Shope wrote:
> i had ah spares rebuild my laygear and also bought a new first gear from
them
> during the rebuild i did about 6 years ago. super nice people, but i got
> nailed big time when i did not specify that surface mail would do fine,
and my
> gears came back airmail. mucho bucks and i also had to fight with customs
who
> charged me for the repair work on my own laygear. i got them to rescind
the
> money, but still had to pay postage because it did not come to my house,
but
> to customs in san diego. i decided to use them only as a last resort due
to
> customs hassle, etc. healeymanjim 66bj8
.
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
IMSTP.gif]
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From sbyers <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 04:27:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Great Patuxent River Valley Rally
Just wanted to express my thanks to Michael Oritt for planning, organizing,
and hosting the first annual (I hope) Great Patuxent River Valley Rally and
car show/picnic/musicfest at his farm in southern Maryland yesterday.
The rally was most challenging, and took place through some of the most
gorgeous Maryland Healey backroads. It was such a pleasant route that we
ran it backwards going home just to see the scenery again. Although the
weather forecast was threatening, the rain never came but the sun did for
the car show. There were some very nice cars there --- even a bunch of
American hot rods showed up later.
Thanks, Michael, for a Grand Day Out!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 07:08:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Silent Horns
One of the four leads coming up the stator is the ground wire from the horn.
It connects to one set of prongs (the left set looking at the trafficator from
the driver's seat) via a screw that goes through the bakelite assembly. The
horn button should have a copper disc on the backside to connect the left side
prongs to the right side prongs when pressed. The right side prongs are
attached to a copper ring on the backside of the bakelite assembly via another
(through) screw. The copper ring is sandwiched between the bakelite assembly
and the short stator tube assembly. The short stator tube probably has a
couple of paths to ground - via the long stator tube to the steering box front
cover/steering box to chassis and to the steering wheel hub to steering column
to bearings to steering box to chassis.
Bob Haskell
British car projects: '60 AH BT-7 MkI, '64 Mini Cooper RHD, and '80 MGB LE
Metalworking projects: '29 SB 9.5 lathe, and Van Norman 1/2 mill
email: bhaskell at iquest.net
Larry Hewlett wrote:
>
> Keith
> I could see fresh marks on the bottom of the horn button where it is making
> contact with the prongs. Also tried an original button and ring but with
> same silent results.
>
> I'm having a bit of an electrical mental block trying to figure out how the
> button is connected to ground in order to create the grounding required??
> Probably a simple answer.
>
> Larry
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
> To: "Larry Hewlett" <hewlettlj@shaw.ca>; "Healey List"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 12:51 PM
> Subject: Re: Silent Horns
>
> > Larry,
> >
> > Could be with a repro that its thickness is not quite enough for the
> button
> > to make contact. I would bend up the prongs on the two halves of the
> copper
> > underneath. Reinstall the button and see what happens.
> >
> > Keith Pennell
> >
> >
> > > HELP, tourist season beginning soon.
> > > Having a problem getting the horns to sound by pressing the horn button.
> > Yet when I remove the button and retaining ring and ground out the plate
> > underneath, they work great, so there is power at the contact plate. The
> > wiring diagram shows the button creating a ground, so what could I be
> > overlooking?? BTW this is a new (repro) trafficator and the signal lights
> > operate just fine.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Larry Hewlett
> > > 63 BJ7
> > > Peachland, B.C.
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 05:15:55 -0700
Subject: shroud metal work
Thanks,
Fred
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 22:57:04 +1000
Subject: Re: 100-4 or two-seater aluminum??? need help identifying!
SMickel950@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Randy:
>
> If these are indeed from 100-4 models:
>
> Body #45 is a very early car made about August or September 1953. The
> chassis number was probably about 14020X.
>
> There is are some photos of the "remains of body #45" on Larry
> Varley's website.
>
> Click here: Austin Healey number 45
>
> Perhaps Larry (varley@cosmos.net.au) has additional information.
>
> Body #4979 would most likely be from a BN-1 made in July 1954, chassis
> number around 1593XX. John Harper (john@jharper.demon.co.uk) may have
> additional information in the UK Registry.
>
> Regards.
>
> Steve Mickelson
> Trying to help the BN-1/BN-2 Registries
> But way behind at the moment
>
> In a message dated 5/31/2003 7:39:39 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> dicksonr@uwm.edu writes:
>
>
>> by the front, 4979. The other has a two digit number of 45. It
>> possibly may
>> have had more digits but there is a little corrosion after the
>> second digit. I
>> would say it looks only like two digits though. Any help
>> identifying these
>> pieces will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!!
>>
>>
>> Randy Dickson
>> Healey Archaeologist
>> 63 BJ-7
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 06:00:02 -0700
Subject: RE: Silent Horns
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Keith
> I could see fresh marks on the bottom of the horn button where it
> is making
> contact with the prongs. Also tried an original button and ring but with
> same silent results.
>
> I'm having a bit of an electrical mental block trying to figure
> out how the
> button is connected to ground in order to create the grounding required??
> Probably a simple answer.
>
> Larry
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From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 10:08:56 -0400
Subject: OT-New car prices
Am I to believe any of this nonsense about going to web sites to find the
'real' invoice pricing? Even these seem to only show margins of about
8-10%. If these are based in any fact, why would the auto manufacturers
make it known to the general public what a dealer pays?
My suspicions are that there is actually a 20-30% margin on these cars. I
just can't imagine that they operate much differently than many other
businesses.
So, you all tell me...am I way off base here?
Feel free to reply off list.
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
60BT7 but no new car
Enterprise, FL
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 07:42:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: ah spares ltd
My experience is that items are shipped within a week
to California and I have yet to have anything held in
customs.
I also noticed that most of the M*ss parts I had
ordered in the past also carried the AHSpares
logo/identifer. (Looks like a small price tag with red
AHSpares letters and the AH Spares part number.)
I have not attemped to return anything - so if you are
of the buy-inspect-return type I could imagine the
freight costs will outweigh any other factors.
Probably best to give the item away or...
My experience is that they are very responsive to
email and willing to answer questions. Be sure to ask
for a freight estimate up front!
No interest....
Dean BN7
--- WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> I just ordered from AH Spares. I received a whole
> big box of stuff for my
> engine rebuild. They hava an excellent web resource
> for ordering.
> I got everything from pistons w/rings to a rocker
> shaft, all my bearings and
> a few miscellaneous parts. Good prices and apparent
> quality in a short amount
> of time.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 09:55:54 -0500
Subject: Re: ah spares ltd
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 07:56:27 -0700
Subject: RE: New Down Pipes
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 08:17:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Silent Horns/Now Got Sound With Ground !!
Like most electrical problems proper grounding is 99% of the solution but for
some reason we choose to ignore it until we've torn the whole system apart. How
else would we learn to recognize strange parts that Mike Salter challenges us
with!!
Regards
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
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From "Jeff Crisconi" <karenjef at earthnet.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 10:14:48 -0600
Subject: Reduced Price - 1956 Austin-Healey Hundred BN-2
Colorado Red w/ Black Interior
Newly rebuilt engine (< 500mi.), carburetters, fuel system, exhaust,
suspension, hubs, brakes, linkages and electricals
Remote oil cooler and electric fan (it gets hot in Colorado)
Many spares and original parts
I'm asking for $24,900.00 or best offer. If interested and for additional
photos please contact:
Jeff Crisconi
karenjef@earthnet.net
Included Parts:
Original oil filter
Original shock absorbers
Original air cleaners
4- 60 spoke chrome wire wheels
1- 48 spoke painted wire wheel (spare)
1- New alloy wheel and tire (spare)
Leather hold-down strap and spare tire securing iron
Lucas fog light set
Heavy front sway bar
Witworth tool set
SU carburetter tool kit
ColorTune fuel mixture adjustment kit
Extra "Standard" carburetter needles (and other parts)
Scissor jack
Thor hammer for wheels
Tire irons
Spare inner tube and patch kit
Custom mixed PPG paint for touchups
Many extra Witworth fasteners and miscellaneous spare parts
Newly attended systems and parts:
Exterior and Interior:
New Robbins SunFast cloth top
New Robbins SunFast tonneau cover
New Side curtains
New Armacord trunk lining
New weather seals
New windshield and gaskets
Electrical System:
New batteries and cabling
New Halogen headlights, parking lights and tail lights
New coil, plugs, plug wires, distributor, rotor, points and condenser
NOS ammeter
NOS trafficator
*Entire electrical system has been seen to, there are no "lost wires" or "bad
connectors"*
Brakes, Suspension and Wheels:
New brake master cylinder and linkage
New wheel bearings
All new front and rear suspension bushings
New Ball joints
Rebuilt kingpins
Rebuilt brakes
New front Coil springs
New rear Leaf springs
New front and rear Bilstein tube shock conversion (can be reverted to
original)
5- New "Mini-Lite" style alloy wheels (also have wire wheels)
5- New Michelin XZX Tires
Fuel System (entirely new):
New fuel tank
New fuel filter
New SU fuel pump
All new fuel line
New fuel distribution pipe
Newly rebuilt SU "H" Type Carburetters
Mechanicals:
New clutch linkage
New throttle linkage
New choke cable and linkage
Spin on oil filter conversion
Remote oil cooler
SPAL electric radiator fan
Flushed and cleaned radiator
New radiator cap
New thermostat
Engine:
Newly rebuilt engine with less than 500 miles on it
All new bearings
New tappets
Honed cylinders
New hardened head studs, washers and nuts
New high compression head gasket
All new gaskets and seals
New water pump
New timing belt and tensioner
New accessory belts
All new hoses
Exhaust System:
All new exhaust hangers
New muffler
*The exhaust system has been completely re-assembled and re-hung into its'
proper position*
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 16:19:29 +0100
Subject: Re: Silent Horns
I may be out of step with the queries and replies but one thing occurs
to me. On the 100 and maybe later models one side of the horn push has a
tagged wire under one nut, as others have said, which goes down the
stator tube. The other connection is either a brass link or a complete
brass ring with an integral tag that clamps between the main moulding
and the stator tube plate when the three screws are tightened. This goes
under the other horn connection disc screw and nut. The circuit is then
completed down the stator tube to the olive connection at the bottom as
this likely to be the most direct electrical path.
If this link or ring is missing then you will not get a connection.
All the best
> I have no practical experience with the horn, but the wiring diagram
>shows
>the horn wire (purple/black) in the stator tube as a ground wire. So one
>prong wired purple/black, the other prong wired to a screw on the steering
>column. The hot wire (purple) goes from the fuse box straight to the horns.
>Looks like they did this so ANOTHER wire wouldn't have to be crammed down
>that long, skinny stator tube.
>
>Best,
>Greg
>67 BJ8
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>> Keith
>> I could see fresh marks on the bottom of the horn button where it
>> is making
>> contact with the prongs. Also tried an original button and ring but with
>> same silent results.
>>
>> I'm having a bit of an electrical mental block trying to figure
>> out how the
>> button is connected to ground in order to create the grounding required??
>> Probably a simple answer.
>>
>> Larry
>
--
John Harper
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 12:43:41 -0500
Subject: Re: shroud metal work
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 14:39:07 -0700
Subject: (no subject)
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From Bill Rister <brister at houston.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 16:47:02 -0700
Subject: BT7 Overdrive
Finally, I have located the proper linkage through AH Spares.
Now, how do I properly use the overdrive after the linkage is installed.
My little blue driver's manual tells me zilch. Can I leave the
dash-mounted switch set for overdrive when slowing or coming to a stop?
Will the firewall mounted switch then protect the overdrive and
prevent it from kicking in until I reach speed? Or do I continue
minding the dash-mounted switch as I have been. What is the purpose of
the accelerator-overdrive linkage? Does it simply disengage the
overdrive upon sharp acceleration? Or what?
- Bill
'60 BT7
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 17:11:55 -0500
Subject: Just In Time Video
Videos are all packed, addressed, and have been mailed as of today. If
you're in the US, they went Priority Mail.
Special thanks to all that used Paypal... a wonderful thing.
Checks have been slowly making their way here..., and I've tried to
consolidate all the mailing, labeling, efforts etc., to one full day of work
(which it was).
I have approximately 6 DVD's still available. If you've recently sent me a
check, as in the last day or two, let me know. When these 6 are gone, there
will be no more.
WST
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 19:21:10 -0400
Subject: RE: OT-New car prices
Let me see if I can offer an explanation to the below invoice
advertisements. First, let me preface this conversation disclosing I own
Chevrolet and Mazda dealerships in Bradenton (2.5 hours from you), although
it seems I'm a British car lover at heart. The under invoice advertisements
include any factory consumer rebates. New vehicle markup between invoice and
MSRP, depending on manufacturer and model, is 3% - 12%. The Chevrolet Metro
for instance had a whopping $300 markup and the new $10,000 Chevrolet
(Daewoo) Aveo will be similar. Most manufactures have a 1% to 3% "holdback"
on each vehicle, which is rebated back to the dealer quarterly. Also, from
time to time there is dealer cash and various other sales incentives. For
instance, I could sell a new Malibu at invoice less the $3000 rebate and I
will still make $1200 in holdback and dealer cash & incentives.
What this really means is the car is over priced in the first place allowing
this type of pricing. Our GM National Dealer Council and the National Auto
Dealers Association have complained for years about this pricing structure
and have asked to have the price of the vehicle adjusted to true value. GM
actually attempted this once and it was a miserable failure. It appears the
manufactures are correct in that the consumer appears to be addicted to
rebates...which is currently driving sales.
As long as I've been a new car dealer, I've never seen a better time to buy
a new car. The free money offers (0%...now even 1.9% for 6 years) and/or
tremendous rebates are hard to beat. In fact, Chevrolet should announce
tomorrow a $4000 rebate on Cavalier, S10 pickups and Trackers.
Now...I would be remiss if I didn't ask for the sale. If you're interested
in either a Chevrolet or Mazda, give me a call.
Gary R. Cox
'67 BJ8 (registered for Conclave 2003)
www.coxchevolet.com
www.coxmazda.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Heard Saxon
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 10:09 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: OT-New car prices
Hi Everyone,
In checking out the new cars lateley, I'm growing really tired of these
dealers telling me they are selling below or at invoice. I'm not sure what
business schools they went to, but I own a small business and I'm very
confident that if I operated at cost or below, I would be gone real soon.
Especially if I had the overhead they have. So this brings up a question I
would like to get some feedback on...
Am I to believe any of this nonsense about going to web sites to find the
'real' invoice pricing? Even these seem to only show margins of about
8-10%. If these are based in any fact, why would the auto manufacturers
make it known to the general public what a dealer pays?
My suspicions are that there is actually a 20-30% margin on these cars. I
just can't imagine that they operate much differently than many other
businesses.
So, you all tell me...am I way off base here?
Feel free to reply off list.
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
60BT7 but no new car
Enterprise, FL
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 21:49:45 -0400
Subject: fuel tank sending units
Is there a short answer to the question; what is the resistance profile on
the sending units??
empty tank = ??? ohms
full tank = ??? ohms
And is that how it really works?
Thanks in advance,
CB (severely electrically challenged)
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 19:00:49 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel tank sending units
Roger, we don't hear from you any more. Are you still out there?
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
> To those who understand such things:
>
> Is there a short answer to the question; what is the resistance
profile on
> the sending units??
> And is that how it really works?
yes
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> CB (severely electrically
challenged)
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 20:08:37 -0600
Subject: Re: fuel tank sending units
Short answer --- 72 ohms = full, 34 ohms = half, zero ohms = empty.
Long answer -- see http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_10.htm
Dave Russell
Charley Braum wrote:
> To those who understand such things:
>
> Is there a short answer to the question; what is the resistance profile on
> the sending units??
>
> empty tank = ??? ohms
>
> full tank = ??? ohms
>
> And is that how it really works?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> CB (severely electrically challenged)
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From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at attbi.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 22:09:41 -0400
Subject: RE: BT7 Overdrive
Engagement is the same as with the standard linkage; flip up the switch. To
disengage, I put the clutch in, match RPM, then flip off the switch. My
understanding is that the kick-down linkage does the same thing; it forces
you to blip the throttle to disengage overdrive, so a smoother transition
occurs.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bill Rister
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 7:47 PM
To: AH Net
Subject: BT7 Overdrive
The link between the accelerator linkage and the firewall-mounted
overdrive switch on my '60 BT7 is missing, The PO had installed a
jumper wire on that switch and the overdrive is operated by flipping the
dash-mounted switch. I've been switching on the overdrive at driving
speed and switching it off when stopped or before shifting from third to
second (first fully depressing the clutch and releasing the gas pedal).
Finally, I have located the proper linkage through AH Spares.
Now, how do I properly use the overdrive after the linkage is installed.
My little blue driver's manual tells me zilch. Can I leave the
dash-mounted switch set for overdrive when slowing or coming to a stop?
Will the firewall mounted switch then protect the overdrive and
prevent it from kicking in until I reach speed? Or do I continue
minding the dash-mounted switch as I have been. What is the purpose of
the accelerator-overdrive linkage? Does it simply disengage the
overdrive upon sharp acceleration? Or what?
- Bill
'60 BT7
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 21:11:10 -0500
Subject: Re: shroud metal work
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 19:40:34 -0500
Subject: Looking for a Healey 3000 "mini garage" or cockpit cover
My MKI is still sitting out in the weather with nothing but a tonneau on it
and I am beginning to see signs of rust etc showing up on my fresh
restoration. Still no windshield or top, just the top bows on it with the
tonneau and a not too water proof cover over that.
Brian Collins
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from the book. It should still be in print in the auto section of any large
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 21:06:37 -0700
Subject: Re: OT-New car prices
Best
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi Everyone,
> In checking out the new cars lateley, I'm growing really tired of these
> dealers telling me they are selling below or at invoice. I'm not
> sure what
> business schools they went to, but I own a small business and I'm very
> confident that if I operated at cost or below, I would be gone real soon.
> Especially if I had the overhead they have. So this brings up a
> question I
> would like to get some feedback on...
>
> Am I to believe any of this nonsense about going to web sites to find the
> 'real' invoice pricing? Even these seem to only show margins of about
> 8-10%. If these are based in any fact, why would the auto manufacturers
> make it known to the general public what a dealer pays?
>
> My suspicions are that there is actually a 20-30% margin on these cars. I
> just can't imagine that they operate much differently than many other
> businesses.
>
> So, you all tell me...am I way off base here?
>
> Feel free to reply off list.
>
> Thanks,
> Heard Saxon
> 60BT7 but no new car
> Enterprise, FL
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From "John Glembotski" <jglembot at attbi.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 21:23:11 -0700
Subject: IMPORTANT VIRUS MESSAGE
IMPORTANT VIRUS MESSAGE
A virus has been passed on to me by a contact. My address book WAS
infected. Since you are in my address book, there is a good chance you
will find it in your computer too.
The virus (called jdbgmgr.exe) is not detected by Norton or McAfee
anti-virus systems. The virus sits quietly for 14 days before damaging
the system.
It is sent automatically by messenger and by the address book, whether
or not you sent Emails to your contacts. Here's how to check for the
virus and how to get rid of it:
YOU MUST DO THIS:
1. Go to Start, Find or search option
2. In the file' folder option, type the name jdbgmgr.exe
3. Be sure you search your C: drive and all sub-folders and any other
drives
you may have.
4. Click "find now"
5. The Virus has a Teddy Bear icon with the name jdbgmgr.exe DO NOT
OPEN IT
6. Go to Edit (on menu bar), choose "select all" to highlight the file
without opening it.
7. Now go to File (on the menu bar) and select delete. It will then go
to
the Recycle Bin.
8. Open the Recycle Bin and delete the file from there as well.
IF YOU FIND THE VIRUS, YOU MUST CONTACT ALL THE PEOPLE IN YOUR ADDRESS
BOOK, SO THEY CAN ERADICATE IT IN THEIR ADDRESS BOOKS AS WELL.
To do this:
a) Open a new e-mail message
b) Click the icon of the address book next to the "TO"
c) Highlight every name and add to "BCC"
d)Copy this message...paste to body of e-mail
e)Enter subject...IMPORTANT VIRUS MESSAGE
Send to EVERYONE in your address book.
Thank You
Timothy J. Stafford
Network Administrator
City of Lincoln City
1-541-996-1222
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 00:26:05 -0700
Subject: Just for grins
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 21:37:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: OT-New car prices
Dealerships are essentially trading businesses. Their
only fixed costs are rent and depreciation, and most
run salaries on partial or 100% commission. (This
fixed cost issue is why most dealerships will be
placed outside of major metropolitan areas.)
With only a handful of fixed costs, that means that
even if margins are low, they can still make money if
they have enough turnover of product. The amount of
money a dealerhsip makes really has very little to do
with how much they make on each car, but more with how
many cars they sell... so sometimes when you're
lucky... if a dealer has had a slow month he'll give
you a good deal just to turnover something for minimum
cash to make room for models that'll have a better
chance of selling quickly.
Hope that explains...
Regards,
Alan
--- Heard Saxon <heard@datatrontech.net> wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
> In checking out the new cars lateley, I'm growing
> really tired of these
> dealers telling me they are selling below or at
> invoice. I'm not sure what
> business schools they went to, but I own a small
> business and I'm very
> confident that if I operated at cost or below, I
> would be gone real soon.
> Especially if I had the overhead they have. So this
> brings up a question I
> would like to get some feedback on...
>
> Am I to believe any of this nonsense about going to
> web sites to find the
> 'real' invoice pricing? Even these seem to only
> show margins of about
> 8-10%. If these are based in any fact, why would
> the auto manufacturers
> make it known to the general public what a dealer
> pays?
>
> My suspicions are that there is actually a 20-30%
> margin on these cars. I
> just can't imagine that they operate much
> differently than many other
> businesses.
>
> So, you all tell me...am I way off base here?
>
> Feel free to reply off list.
>
> Thanks,
> Heard Saxon
> 60BT7 but no new car
> Enterprise, FL
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 15:12:51 +1000
Subject: Original Healey Artwork
I have a friend who drew and painted the artwork for the poster/print that
accompanied Bill Emerson's "The Healey Book".
If you have a look at
http://coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Product=Poster
<http://coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Product=Poster&Productid=15>
&Productid=15 you will see that the publisher lists copies of the print still
available for either US$69.95 or 45.00 Pounds.
However my friend wishes to sell the original artwork to a Healey enthusiast.
I have a jpg of the original that I would be happy to forward on should anyone
wish to see it. I would also be happy to make the necessary introductions.
No connections of course, just wanting to help a mate.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 00:04:32 -0500
Subject: Re: OT-New car prices
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 05:43:31 +0000
Subject: Re: shroud metal work
> I just hired a guy to weld patches and fill holes in four shrouds I
>had,...two
> front and two rears. He did a great job with a TIG machine. I then bought a
> plastic hammer from Eastwood that is teardrop shaped. I have found that that
> hammer is really good at beating out and stretching the aluminum. It is easy
> to go too far though so one should be careful.
> I also bought a shrinking hammer and dolly from Eastwood and some slap files.
>
> I found that these are way too aggressive for aluminum. Thus, I found that a
> regular body hammer and dollies appropriate for the shape of the inside or
> outside of the shroud work the best. Aluminum is very easy to move so one
> should be careful here and not overdo it. I just use several light taps to
> move the metal. Start from the outside of a dent and work your way in. You
> should be aware that you are work hardening the aluminum. A few people have
> told me that is is best to "soften" the aluminum with an oxyacetalyne torch
> first. I declined since I do not have a torch and was afraid of melting it.
> Ask someone who knows about this phenomenon.
> Anyway, two of my shrouds look great right now with about a half day each of
> hammer and dolly work. Just take it easy and go slow. Now for the putty and
> light sanding, then the high build Marson primer and two weeks in the sun to
> shrink before sealer and paint.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 23:06:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT VIRUS MESSAGE
Looks like someone got you with a hoax! There's a
great site on the web called snopes.com. You should
always check it before passing on unsolicited virus
and computer warnings. Note about your warning:
http://www.snopes.com/computer/virus/jdbgmgr.htm
unfortunately it's just another pathetic hoax...
Take Care,
Alan
--- John Glembotski <jglembot@attbi.com> wrote:
> I just received this message and checked my computer
> and found the virus
> embedded in my WINNT folder, so you may have it too.
> READ AND DO THE
> FOLLOWING IMMEDIATELY!
>
> IMPORTANT VIRUS MESSAGE
>
> A virus has been passed on to me by a contact. My
> address book WAS
>
> infected. Since you are in my address book, there is
> a good chance you
>
> will find it in your computer too.
>
> The virus (called jdbgmgr.exe) is not detected by
> Norton or McAfee
>
> anti-virus systems. The virus sits quietly for 14
> days before damaging
>
> the system.
>
> It is sent automatically by messenger and by the
> address book, whether
>
> or not you sent Emails to your contacts. Here's how
> to check for the
>
> virus and how to get rid of it:
>
> YOU MUST DO THIS:
>
> 1. Go to Start, Find or search option
>
> 2. In the file' folder option, type the name
> jdbgmgr.exe
>
> 3. Be sure you search your C: drive and all
> sub-folders and any other
>
> drives
>
> you may have.
>
> 4. Click "find now"
>
> 5. The Virus has a Teddy Bear icon with the name
> jdbgmgr.exe DO NOT
>
> OPEN IT
>
> 6. Go to Edit (on menu bar), choose "select all" to
> highlight the file
>
> without opening it.
>
> 7. Now go to File (on the menu bar) and select
> delete. It will then go
>
> to
>
> the Recycle Bin.
>
> 8. Open the Recycle Bin and delete the file from
> there as well.
>
> IF YOU FIND THE VIRUS, YOU MUST CONTACT ALL THE
> PEOPLE IN YOUR ADDRESS
>
> BOOK, SO THEY CAN ERADICATE IT IN THEIR ADDRESS
> BOOKS AS WELL.
>
> To do this:
>
> a) Open a new e-mail message
>
> b) Click the icon of the address book next to the
> "TO"
>
> c) Highlight every name and add to "BCC"
>
> d)Copy this message...paste to body of e-mail
>
> e)Enter subject...IMPORTANT VIRUS MESSAGE
>
> Send to EVERYONE in your address book.
>
> Thank You
>
> Timothy J. Stafford
>
> Network Administrator
>
> City of Lincoln City
>
> 1-541-996-1222
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 00:16:34 -0600
Subject: Re: BT7 Overdrive
The switch on the firewall is intended to hold the OD engaged when the dash
switch is switched off until you depress the accelerator approximately 5%. The
purpose is to avoid high stresses on the overdrive which might occur if you were
to disengage while the vehicle was moving and the throttle was closed. In that
way the OD disengages while the revs are increasing thus avoiding a sudden
uncontrolled deceleration.
You don't have to disengage the clutch when shifting out of OD. If the switch is
properly set it will act exactly like a perfect double declutch into a lower
gear.
The gearbox should contain a make/break switch which automatically kills the OD
circuit when the gear selector is moved out of the 3/4 notch. With the engine
switched off and the ignition key and OD switches turned on try moving the gear
selector from 2nd to 3rd or 4th. you should hear the solenoid engage and when
you go back to 2nd or 1st you should hear it disengage. If that switch is
inoperative (or wired around) your gearbox is in danger.
The OD can be engaged at anytime in 3rd or 4th, except for the BN1s had a speed
sensitive switch to keep the OD from engaging below 40 mph. (I wired around
mine.)
Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
Bill Rister wrote:
> The link between the accelerator linkage and the firewall-mounted
> overdrive switch on my '60 BT7 is missing, The PO had installed a
> jumper wire on that switch and the overdrive is operated by flipping the
> dash-mounted switch. I've been switching on the overdrive at driving
> speed and switching it off when stopped or before shifting from third to
> second (first fully depressing the clutch and releasing the gas pedal).
>
> Finally, I have located the proper linkage through AH Spares.
>
> Now, how do I properly use the overdrive after the linkage is installed.
> My little blue driver's manual tells me zilch. Can I leave the
> dash-mounted switch set for overdrive when slowing or coming to a stop?
> Will the firewall mounted switch then protect the overdrive and
> prevent it from kicking in until I reach speed? Or do I continue
> minding the dash-mounted switch as I have been. What is the purpose of
> the accelerator-overdrive linkage? Does it simply disengage the
> overdrive upon sharp acceleration? Or what?
>
> - Bill
> '60 BT7
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 00:29:03 -0600
Subject: Re: shroud metal work
Bill Lawrence
dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> I just hired a guy to weld patches and fill holes in four shrouds I had,...two
> front and two rears. He did a great job with a TIG machine. I then bought a
> plastic hammer from Eastwood that is teardrop shaped. I have found that that
> hammer is really good at beating out and stretching the aluminum. It is easy
> to go too far though so one should be careful.
> I also bought a shrinking hammer and dolly from Eastwood and some slap files.
> I found that these are way too aggressive for aluminum. Thus, I found that a
> regular body hammer and dollies appropriate for the shape of the inside or
> outside of the shroud work the best. Aluminum is very easy to move so one
> should be careful here and not overdo it. I just use several light taps to
> move the metal. Start from the outside of a dent and work your way in. You
> should be aware that you are work hardening the aluminum. A few people have
> told me that is is best to "soften" the aluminum with an oxyacetalyne torch
> first. I declined since I do not have a torch and was afraid of melting it.
> Ask someone who knows about this phenomenon.
> Anyway, two of my shrouds look great right now with about a half day each of
> hammer and dolly work. Just take it easy and go slow. Now for the putty and
> light sanding, then the high build Marson primer and two weeks in the sun to
> shrink before sealer and paint.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 00:47:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: ah spares ltd
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Torrance, CA
__________________________________
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 01:05:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: New Down Pipes
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 22:29:11 -0700
From: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
Subject: Re: New Down Pipes
I refurbished my existing down pipes after buying and
returning the angle bent ones........
__________________________________
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 09:12:30 +0100
Subject: Re: IMPORTANT VIRUS MESSAGE
Think about it. "Norton and MacAfee can't detect it", but you can simply
delete a named file? What illogical nonsense! This is one of the oldest,
and most obvious, hoaxes doing the rounds.
--
Alan F Cross
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From DLthm at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 04:34:21 EDT
Subject: Heat and fumes
The small town that I live near have a whacky two weeks starting this
Saturday, this weekend the town is closed off to all traffic and reverts back
to 50
years ago. Most people dress as in the 50,s, sheep and horses amble through the
place, ale and food is sold at 1950,s prices and traditional games and
entertainment is laid on for everyone. There will be quite a few cars and
trucks of
the period including my 100/4.
how do I keep sticky fingered kids of my ice blue paintwork ? we have quite
strict laws on child and wife beating here.
Kind regards
Dave
Wales UK 1953 100/4
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From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 04:43:50 EDT
Subject: list info
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 03:13:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Heat and fumes
Yes, I appreciate that sticky fingered Welsh children
should be minded.... Maybe have some extra lollies
handy and tell them you'll give them one if they go
play next to the Messerschmitt KR200 three slots down
the way.
Regarding heat/fumes. These are partially related
issues.
The main areas to look for fume/heat seepage are many.
First and foremost - the tranmission tunnel on your
BN1 should have sufficient camper seal/weather
stripping on all flanges including the short tunnel
piece in the back. this will do wonders to keep
exhaust and engine heat out of the car. Some heat
insulation (like dynamat) on the underside of the
tunnel can't hurt either.
the second area that is big for heat leaking is the
bulkhead/firewall around the front of the gearbox -
you may have a big gap at the upper end of this which
should be filled in with some sort of insulation.
Lastly, a good piece of heat insulation material (like
Dynamat) should be put under the carpet on the left
hand (passenger) footwell & floor. The asbestos
sheeting under the floor is very helpful, but there
are enough gaps in its coverage that additional
insulation on top of the floor is a good idea.
Once I completed all of these steps in my BN1, the
cockpit actually is now too cold when I run with the
top down & there's a chill out.
Regarding fumes - yes rich running is a culprit. You
should also invest the time to see if there are any
major exhaust leaks along your system and work to seal
any of them...
Hope that helps.
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- DLthm@aol.com wrote:
> Hi,
> I have recently bought a 1953 100/4, there
> are a few jobs to do but
> most I will save for winter. One or two things I
> must sort out urgently to
> enjoy what good weather we have in Wales, need doing
> sooner than later.
> The car gets very hot inside, even with no roof.
> Maybe the heater wont shut off ? but a lot of engine
> heat seems to be passing
> through as well, making it uncomfortable for my
> better half the heater box
> being on the passenger side.
> More importantly are the fumes that also seem to
> fill the car. They give us a
> serious headache after half an hour and I consider
> them dangerous. Another
> Healey new owner Lee from the US has a similar
> problem and is going to try to
> insulate the bulkhead and make sure all the holes
> from the engine bay are
> blocked to prevent heat and fumes passing through.
> Any ideas team please ? I think
> one of the carbs is running too rich and will check
> that out and obviously for
> any exhaust leaks but what kind of heat insulation
> could I use and how easy
> is it to fit with the engine in situ.
>
> The small town that I live near have a whacky two
> weeks starting this
> Saturday, this weekend the town is closed off to all
> traffic and reverts back to 50
> years ago. Most people dress as in the 50,s, sheep
> and horses amble through the
> place, ale and food is sold at 1950,s prices and
> traditional games and
> entertainment is laid on for everyone. There will be
> quite a few cars and trucks of
> the period including my 100/4.
> how do I keep sticky fingered kids of my ice blue
> paintwork ? we have quite
> strict laws on child and wife beating here.
>
> Kind regards
> Dave
> Wales UK 1953 100/4
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From N0040 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 08:45:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Heat and fumes
> how do I keep sticky fingered kids of my ice blue paintwork ? we have
> quite
> strict laws on child and wife beating here.
>
Unfed child eating dogs stationed at all four corners ( he said with a smile ;
>} ). Usually, vigilance and the hopes that parents of said children know
better, and teach them to "look not touch".
Good luck !
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 09:15:55 -0400
Subject: rockers
any thoughts on this matter?
Carl
BN-4(L)
1957
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From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 09:30:16 -0400
Subject: Re: OT-New car prices
Anyway, thanks for all the input. I just wanted to try to get a fix on how
much of this stuff is pure nonsense.
Heard Saxon
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 11:19:33 EDT
Subject: Re: rockers
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 10:32:44 -0500
Subject: Mini Garage / Cockpit cover Source
Can someone tell me if these are currently shown in a recent Healey Marque or
similar, if so, where I can buy one?
Brian Collins
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 16:30:52 -0400
Subject: rockers
> I have recently discovered the the oil relief hole in rocker number 6 is
> sprouting ( a gusher). I found an old article by one Jim Carruthers
(chicago
> area) who recommended pining the hole with a #4 finishing nail, driven in
> (don't hit the shaft), cut off, and peened over.
>
> any thoughts on this matter?
>
> Carl
> BN-4(L)
> 1957
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 14:16:33 -0700
Subject: 3000 heater valve O'rings
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From Bill Rister <brister at houston.rr.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 17:31:53 -0700
Subject: Overdrive
Again, thanks to all for the response and good advice.
- Bill
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 17:08:28 -0600
Subject: Re: 3000 heater valve O'rings
See this thread & follow ups. It appears that one ring is sometimes not
enough & two rings may be stacked together.
http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200301/msg00099.html
Dave Russell
Freese, Ken wrote:
> I am putting my heater back together and am again questioning the placement
> of the two O'rings. In the past, I have put one in the heater valve halves
> and omitted the 2nd O'ring, not knowing where it goes. The parts book
> picture shows both O'rings in space. I have not had a leak that I know of.
> Does someone know where the 2nd O'ring goes?
> Oh, and I will just mention a defect with the new heater core that I
> received from Moss. One mounting tab was cocked so I had to oval out the
> hole in the sheet metal lid with a file to get the mounting screw in.
> Thanks,
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 17:16:23 -0700
Subject: LA Event-4th Annual Rat Fink Party Sat July 12
Check out their site:
http://www.ratfink.org/
Disclaimer: if there was _any_ way I could make money off passing info on
this list, I'd be in it up to my (receding) hairline.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 21:27:25 -0400
Subject: A sad car story - non Healey
James Lea
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 21:29:10 EDT
Subject: Re: LA Event-4th Annual Rat Fink Party Sat July 12
Happy Healeying,
Rick
In a message dated 6/3/03 8:18:21 PM, sgerow@singular.com writes:
<<Any of you in the Los Angeles area who are basically overgrown 14-year-olds
might want to consider attending this event. I know I'll be there. Be a
lotta rat rods, hoodlum chicks, flattops, fenders & tattoos.
Check out their site:
http://www.ratfink.org/
Disclaimer: if there was _any_ way I could make money off passing info on
this list, I'd be in it up to my (receding) hairline.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ray Smithson <rjsmithson at shaw.ca>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 22:02:29 -0700
Subject: BJ7 frame parts
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.483 / Virus Database: 279 - Release Date: 5/19/03
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 01:11:07 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ7 frame parts
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 06:25:37 -0500
Subject: Re: list info
You can go to the listinfo web site given below, enter your email
address and do a search for "healey". It will show two entries,
healey and healey-digest. You can then use the checkboxes to
subscribe and unsubscribe to each list.
Bob Haskell
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 20:35:27 +1000
Subject: Update to Healey Site
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 10:16:36 -0400
Subject: rockers and nails
Thanks,
Carl
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 16:01:37 -0400
Subject: Electronic Tach Pulse
Bob Johnson
BJ8 36653
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 17:37:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Electronic Tach Pulse
Are you saying that it worked the first time you hooked it up and now it
doesn't work at all? Does the white wire have a good connection to the
ignition switch? It almost sounds like it doesn't. I found that when I
rebuilt mine, that I needed more than one loop...of course I have a
pertronix ignition. I never had the car running with points, so I had no
"before" to compare to. I had to add a couple loops to get enough of a
signal from the pertronix to get a solid reading. Once you get it working,
if you find that the needle runs up to some RPM and then abruptly falls back
to 0, you need to add a loop or so until you can get a full reading. You
will have to use thinner wire to fit more loops into the plastic holder.
You will probably also find that this makes the tach more accurate
throughout it's range. Mine reads 500 at 500 and 5000 at 5000, when checked
against an accurate tach.
When you turn the calibration pot does the meter peg? If so, you have the
transistors in backwards.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
> How or where is the pulse generated for the the electronic tach on a BJ8?
Is
> it generated somehow at the coil and read at the tach, or is it somehow
> generated at the tach? My guess is at the coil. If that is it, what should
the
> current read at the loop in the white wire that would seem to represent a
> winding in the tiny transformer. Replaced all resistors, capacitors,
diodes in
> the tach, and it would only register about 1300 rpms max, but right now it
> does not move off zero rpms, but there seems to also be no current reading
on
> an oscilloscope taking a reading at the loop. Hope this makes sense to
> someone.
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8 36653
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 21:25:36 EDT
Subject: Hardtop trim finish
TIA--Michael Oritt
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 01:37:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Electronic Tach Pulse
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
RESTORATION PHOTOGRAPH SETS
100-M....this car has just had a ground up restoration , the photos were
taken just before the engine was installed , shows interior , exterior ,
underhood and engine compartment .... 53 PICTURES - $ 35.00
BN2 . BN4 . BT7 . BJ7 ,these sets start with a freshly painted chassis to a
finished show quality car . there are close up shots of the bare chassis then
with the wiring and brake lines installed , location of relays , linkage ,
clips , interior upholstery , trunk area , external shots and much more .
BN2.... this larger set will be available in JULY 2003 .
BN4 .... 75 PICTURES - $ 45.00
BT7 .... 120 PICTURES - $ 72.00
BJ7 .... 90 PICTURES - $ 52.00
KILMARTIN'S NEW FRAME , close up shots . BN4 - BJ7 -- $ 28.00
Add $4.00 S & H per set within the U.S Norman Nock
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way , Stockton , CA 95205
(209)948-8767 FAX # (209) 948 - 1030
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 06:49:28 -0400
Subject: Update: Right front end noise
The old bearings(original)looked a little discolored and one roller had a
tiny piece missing on it's end? The old races looked also to be bit
discolored with some very small marks?
I don't know what bad bearings are supposed to look like?? They were all
round and they rolled when I moved them!!??
I took it for a short drive and it seems OK, but the real test will be on
the highway at speed in the curves! The weather has been awful so it didn't
hurt a lot for it to be up on stands for a week!
Will be driving to Sharon,Pa.(the real bearing test) this Saturday (7th-2PM)
for a get together with the clubs from the Pittsburgh and North East Ohio at
"Quaker Steak and Lube". Come and join us if your in this area.
Warren
67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 07:32:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Electronic Tach Pulse
<snip>
> Are you saying that it worked the first time you hooked it up and now it
> doesn't work at all?
It would register up to about 1300 rpm and go no further regardless of
engine speed above 1300.
Does the white wire have a good connection to the
> ignition switch? It almost sounds like it doesn't.
I'll check this.
<snip>
> When you turn the calibration pot does the meter peg? If so, you have the
> transistors in backwards.
Turning the pot makes no difference.
Bob Johnson
BJ8
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
>
> > How or where is the pulse generated for the the electronic tach on a
BJ8?
> Is
> > it generated somehow at the coil and read at the tach, or is it somehow
> > generated at the tach? My guess is at the coil. If that is it, what
should
> the
> > current read at the loop in the white wire that would seem to represent
a
> > winding in the tiny transformer. Replaced all resistors, capacitors,
> diodes in
> > the tach, and it would only register about 1300 rpms max, but right now
it
> > does not move off zero rpms, but there seems to also be no current
reading
> on
> > an oscilloscope taking a reading at the loop. Hope this makes sense to
> > someone.
> >
> > Bob Johnson
> > BJ8 36653
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 10:06:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Hardtop trim finish
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 9:25 PM
Subject: Hardtop trim finish
> How is the end of the windlacing finished where the cant rail ends--Is it
> just cut off flush with the bottom edge of the aluminum extrusion?
>
> TIA--Michael Oritt
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From Trmgafun at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 10:24:34 -0400
Subject: Birth Announcement
On Wednesday, June 4, 2003 at 6:17 PM EST, after many hours of labor, a 1957
Longbridge Austin-Healey BN4 breathed life for the first time in many years.
BN4L-0-49881 is now resting quietly in its crib, and the parents are doing
fine.
After a turn of the key, a few clicks of the pump, and a push of the starter
button, this baby blew out a five by ten foot bellow of black soot all over the
driveway, then proceeded to burble a beautiful, deep mellow chorus that topped
off a very pleasant evening for its owner.
The fun has just begun.......
Scott Helms
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 11:53:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Birth Announcement
<< BN4L-0-49881 is now resting quietly in its crib, and the parents are doing
fine. >>
So, I guess you'll be mailing out those cigars soon!
Congrats.
Rick
San Diego
(2914 Elm ST, 92102)
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 06:41:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Electronic Tach Pulse
I noticed in your response you mentioned something of
a "calibration pot". Can you explain what this is?
My tach reads high, but I thought it was something I
would just have to live with...
Jim wood
67 BJ8
>
> When you turn the calibration pot does the meter
> peg? If so, you have the
> transistors in backwards.
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
__________________________________
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 15:10:42 -0700
Subject: Looking for a book
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From "Haber, David J." <David.Haber at vtmednet.org>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 15:40:12 -0400
Subject: Generator for a 1960 BN7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 04:01:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: OT-New car prices
As a business owner/manager here in Asia... I do have
to say that I am always amazed at how many clients I
have seem to think that I am "ripping them off" when
in reality I make a modest postive cash flow at
best... and usually the least appreciative and most
abusive clients are the ones I lose money on.
For every story of a Dealer making $15,000 on a car,
there's probably 150 that made $1000 or less (which to
a dealer with overheads, this IS cost).
At the end of the day, what we pay for our products,
goods and services are significantly cheaper now than
they ever have been in history (with the notable
exception of property), and in this market margins are
as lean as they come.
We always seem to think things were cheaper in the
past - my Grandparents paid $25 for a used model T in
1930 - sounds cheap but to them that $25 amounted to
probably their entire disposable income for the year.
So, just when you think someone is ripping you off,
(the only ones I see doing that these days are
Microsoft, oil producers, and Record Producers - and
many in business would argue they get the price
because they have the product)... at the end of the
day it's capitalism.
I do at times, like most of us, pay "too" much, and I
hate it but accept it. This is the case for example,
with some of the suppliers for our healeys. The trick
is when you know the price you paid isn't right... you
can always exercise your right minimize what you buy
from them in the future if you don't like how you've
been treated....
I always keep this in mind with my business... and
eventhough my margins are as narrow as they get, I
have the most loyal customer base in my industry in
Asia.... I'd rather make a modest profit with a large
number of clients rather than make the same modest
profit 'rogering' the few that dare to walk in the
door.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Heard Saxon <heard@datatrontech.net> wrote:
> Many thanks to all who replied. Yes, I'm very aware
> that dealers make a lot
> of money on service, options, financing, etc. And I
> certainly don't have a
> problem with any business making a reasonbale
> profit. In fact, that is
> exactly my beef. When they use the term 'cost', as
> in, 'I'm selling this
> car at cost', I find it offensive that they think
> I'm would be ignorant
> enough to believe that they are in business for
> purely altruistic purposes.
>
> Anyway, thanks for all the input. I just wanted to
> try to get a fix on how
> much of this stuff is pure nonsense.
>
> Heard Saxon
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 18:41:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Electronic Tach Pulse
Inside the tach on the circuit board there is an adjustable
resistor(calibration potentiometer). It is used to adjust the bias or
amount of voltage supplied to the transistor that drives the meter. You
have to have the tach apart to see it, unless you drill a small hole through
the back of the tach case that lines up with it. What I did to calibrate
mine was hook up a tach that was known to be accurate. Then turn the
calibration pot in the Smiths tach until it reads the same value.
Sometimes, like my Uncle David noted in he rebuild article, the action of
the meter is not linear. If that is the case, calibrate the tach where you
feel it will be most useful to you. If you are a racer, calibrate it for
the high end of the rev range...otherwise I would adjust it to be accurate
at about 2500 rpm.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
> Chris,
>
> I noticed in your response you mentioned something of
> a "calibration pot". Can you explain what this is?
> My tach reads high, but I thought it was something I
> would just have to live with...
>
> Jim wood
> 67 BJ8
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 18:59:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Electronic Tach Pulse
Well, assuming the connection at the ignition switch is good, I would try
this. Just for fun, add a temporary second loop at the back of the tach.
It doesn't have to be perfect, just sort of round and close. If your limit
goes up you need to keep adding loops until you get to full range...of
course they will have to be smaller wire to fit in the plastic holder. As
far as that being a safety issue, or the wire melting, I have no idea. Mine
hasn't melted yet, but that doesn't mean that it won't. I think the issue
here is that many of the internal components of these tachs were different
combos that added up to roughly the same thing. You have to find the right
combination of loops/adjustment that works.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
> Are you saying that it worked the first time you hooked it up and now it
> doesn't work at all?
It would register up to about 1300 rpm and go no further regardless of
engine speed above 1300.
Does the white wire have a good connection to the
> ignition switch? It almost sounds like it doesn't.
I'll check this.
<snip>
> When you turn the calibration pot does the meter peg? If so, you have the
> transistors in backwards.
Turning the pot makes no difference.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 17:56:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Looking for a book
These are available new from the publisher -
http://www.haynes.co.uk/inc/viewmanual.asp?mt=0049
Several healey suppliers sell them as well. You can
probably buy it on Amazon also.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I am looking for a copy of Haynes Austin Healey
> 100/6 & 3000 Owners
> Workshop Manual. I just missed getting one on E-Bay
> that sold right
> before I could bid. If anyone has a copy they want
> to sell please
> contact me off the list.
> Thanks,
> Ron Fine
> 61BN7
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From carlalony2 at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 20:56:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Generator for a 1960 BN7
Lony Taylor
Daytona Florida
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 18:03:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Update: Right front end noise
There should be no marks whatsoever (nor
discoloration) on bearings or races. If there is even
one chip or indentation, the bearings are bad. The
only acceptable wear is a slight patina of grease / or
some minimal smoothing - only the trained eye will see
this. If the bearing doesn't look new like it's from
the factory... it is NO good.
I just pulled the front wheel bearings off my BN1 -
and even though they were 50 years old straight from
the factory... they looked as good as new (although I
had to replace one because I damaged it when I removed
it).
Bearing steel is VERY brittle (and VERY 'hard' as
well)... so as soon as there is any imperfection in
the bearing or race... it can start breaking apart.
Potentially Dangerous.
Regards,
Alan
--- Warren Dietz <flyhihealey@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Have replaced those bearings,finally. Had to wait
> for a seal. Took the
> time to clean everything up before putting back
> together. Thanks all for the
> suggestions. I used the old races to beat on to
> evenly insert the new. It
> was suggested to also put them in the freezer to
> shrink them up a bit!
>
> The old bearings(original)looked a little discolored
> and one roller had a
> tiny piece missing on it's end? The old races looked
> also to be bit
> discolored with some very small marks?
>
> I don't know what bad bearings are supposed to look
> like?? They were all
> round and they rolled when I moved them!!??
>
> I took it for a short drive and it seems OK, but the
> real test will be on
> the highway at speed in the curves! The weather has
> been awful so it didn't
> hurt a lot for it to be up on stands for a week!
>
> Will be driving to Sharon,Pa.(the real bearing test)
> this Saturday (7th-2PM)
> for a get together with the clubs from the
> Pittsburgh and North East Ohio at
> "Quaker Steak and Lube". Come and join us if your in
> this area.
>
> Warren
> 67 BJ8
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 21:43:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Generator for a 1960 BN7
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 21:44:37 -0400
Subject: 100-4 engine rebuild
So the question is, should one opt for the 100M type pistons and all that goes
with it?
Rick Neves
BN-2 '56
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 19:21:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Generator for a 1960 BN7
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Haber, David J." <David.Haber@vtmednet.org>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 12:40 PM
Subject: Generator for a 1960 BN7
> Antone know where I can get a good generator for a 1960 BN7? Mine died
> and I would like to get one ASAP. The auto electric repair shop said
> mine was pretty messed up and they were having trouble getting parts to
> rebuild. I'd like to get a new one.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 22:51:21 -0700
Subject: Ign light on
The ign light of my friend's BJ7 stays on all the time and at all rpm. Any
suggestions as to why?
Keith Pennell
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 20:52:03 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-4 engine rebuild
The M pistons have a shallower dish which gives a higher compression
ratio, 8.6 to 1 I believe. The cams are available from several sources.
You need different valve springs to go with the cam. It is an easy 15%
power increase with practically no harm to reliability. Even more power
with the M intake manifolds & larger carbs. The distributor advance
curve should be changed to match the cam & compression. Since you are
already changing many of the subject parts, it would be easy to
substitute M parts.
Dave Russell
Rick Neves wrote:
> During the process of breaking down my 100-4 engine, my mechanic and I
> discovered the need to replace the pistons. We plan to bring the entire block
> into better than original specs. While researching the piston purchase I
> noticed the 100M has a higher compression ratio and different pistons. I
> believe they are still the dished out type but I guess there is something
> different about them to deal with the higher ratio. I'm guessing that the cam
> shaft is different as well and probably hard to come by.
>
> So the question is, should one opt for the 100M type pistons and all that goes
> with it?
>
> Rick Neves
> BN-2 '56
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 20:03:16 -0700
Subject: RE: Ign light on
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 10:51 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Ign light on
Listers,
The ign light of my friend's BJ7 stays on all the time and at all rpm. Any
suggestions as to why?
Keith Pennell
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 22:04:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Ign light on
Not charging. Bad connection, faulty regulator, or faulty generator...or
not polarized correctly.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
> Listers,
>
> The ign light of my friend's BJ7 stays on all the time and at all rpm.
Any
> suggestions as to why?
>
> Keith Pennell
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 23:05:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Electronic Tach Pulse
STOP!!! You do not need to drill the hole to make the adjustment.
Merely pull the tach through the front of the dash, pull the light socket
out. If you look carefully inside the light socket hole just to the side
you can see the the knurled nylon wheel which makes the adjustment. Use a
nonconductive thingie (tech term for nonmetallic thingamabob) to turn the
wheel until the rpm readings are in agreement with a known tach.
Used this approach to correct a tach which was reading several hundred rpm
high.
Keith Pennell
> Hi Jim,
>
> Inside the tach on the circuit board there is an adjustable
> resistor(calibration potentiometer). It is used to adjust the bias or
> amount of voltage supplied to the transistor that drives the meter. You
> have to have the tach apart to see it, unless you drill a small hole
through
> the back of the tach case that lines up with it. What I did to calibrate
> mine was hook up a tach that was known to be accurate. Then turn the
> calibration pot in the Smiths tach until it reads the same value.
> Sometimes, like my Uncle David noted in he rebuild article, the action of
> the meter is not linear. If that is the case, calibrate the tach where
you
> feel it will be most useful to you. If you are a racer, calibrate it for
> the high end of the rev range...otherwise I would adjust it to be accurate
> at about 2500 rpm.
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 23:35:46 -0400
Subject: Re: OT-New car prices - no Healey content
CB
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 22:11:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Electronic Tach Pulse
Mine does not have any knurls. Smooth all the way around. Be very careful
if you do it this way, since those pots are not meant to take much side
loading...which is exactly what you will be doing if you turn it from the
side. Just do it with the tach apart.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
> Chris,
>
> STOP!!! You do not need to drill the hole to make the adjustment.
>
> Merely pull the tach through the front of the dash, pull the light socket
> out. If you look carefully inside the light socket hole just to the side
> you can see the the knurled nylon wheel which makes the adjustment. Use a
> nonconductive thingie (tech term for nonmetallic thingamabob) to turn the
> wheel until the rpm readings are in agreement with a known tach.
>
> Used this approach to correct a tach which was reading several hundred rpm
> high.
>
> Keith Pennell
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 20:14:15 -0700
Subject: RE: OT-New car prices - no Healey content
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Charley Braum
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 8:36 PM
To: Blue One Hundred
Cc: Healey-List
Subject: Re: OT-New car prices - no Healey content
Agreed, except you forgot to mention the most efficient rip-off
organization of all, 'The Government' (and that includes all of them), with
average to poor service for the price (taxes collected), and no option to
'take your business elsewhere'.
CB
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From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 20:41:07 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey Sighting
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 00:18:16 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-4 engine rebuild
David Nock
British Car Specialists
57 Healey BN4
80 Triumph TR8
And many other parts cars
<A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
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From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at attbi.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 21:22:10 -0700
Subject: Engine number plate
Esko
BJ7
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 14:14:23 +0100
Subject: RE: Birth Announcement
I well remember the first time I fired up my Longbridge BN4 after its rebuild -
what beautiful music!
When I rushed into the house to tell my wife that I had at last got it going,
she simple said - "I know - I can hear it!"
YES!!!
Paul
------------------------------
>Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 10:24:34 -0400
>From: Trmgafun@aol.com
>Subject: Birth Announcement
>Hi everyone,
>On Wednesday, June 4, 2003 at 6:17 PM EST, after many hours of labor, a 1957
>Longbridge Austin-Healey BN4 breathed life >for the first time in many years.
>BN4L-0-49881 is now resting quietly in its crib, and the parents are doing
>fine.
>After a turn of the key, a few clicks of the pump, and a push of the starter
>button, this baby blew out a five by ten foot bellow of >black soot all over
>the driveway, then proceeded to burble a beautiful, deep mellow chorus that
>topped off a very pleasant evening for its owner.
>The fun has just begun.......
>Scott Helms
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 06:44:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Just In Time Video
Nice piece of work. A real treasure to have. Wish we had more from
other talents who have passed.
PayPal is the handiest thing to come along since instant whipped cream.
Thanks,
Rob Westcott
'55 BN 1
'59 MK 1 (Jaguar)
"Wm. Severin Thompson" wrote:
>
> To all,
>
> Videos are all packed, addressed, and have been mailed as of today. If
> you're in the US, they went Priority Mail.
>
> Special thanks to all that used Paypal... a wonderful thing.
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 09:19:38 -0500
Subject: Lucas Generators
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 10:52:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Electronic Tach Pulse
Mine is smooth also. Like someone said, these things were not nearly all
made alike. I ordered parts for mine using a list provided by a list member.
Then I opened mine up, very few parts matched. Wan't a big deal, Just
ordered what was inside. I still appreciated his help.
About the smooth edged pot, mine has a screw driver slot in the center that
looks like only it (the center) should turn. However, the whole thing turns.
This is right, isn't it? What happens if the pot goes bad? How does one tell
if it is?
Bob Johnson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Masucci" <sooch@houston.rr.com>
To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>; "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 11:11 PM
Subject: Re: Electronic Tach Pulse
> Keith,
>
> Mine does not have any knurls. Smooth all the way around. Be very
careful
> if you do it this way, since those pots are not meant to take much side
> loading...which is exactly what you will be doing if you turn it from the
> side. Just do it with the tach apart.
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
>
>
> > Chris,
> >
> > STOP!!! You do not need to drill the hole to make the adjustment.
> >
> > Merely pull the tach through the front of the dash, pull the light
socket
> > out. If you look carefully inside the light socket hole just to the
side
> > you can see the the knurled nylon wheel which makes the adjustment. Use
a
> > nonconductive thingie (tech term for nonmetallic thingamabob) to turn
the
> > wheel until the rpm readings are in agreement with a known tach.
> >
> > Used this approach to correct a tach which was reading several hundred
rpm
> > high.
> >
> > Keith Pennell
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Trmgafun at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 13:09:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Birth Announcement
Thanks for all the great comments regarding the birth announcement. Well, I
wish I were ready to take my scenic drive around the United States, but
unfortunately the car is still just a rolling chassis. Hearing the awesome
rumble of the Healey engine for the very first time was a major step in the
right direction, and major motivator. Within the next day or two I hope to
verify that the rest of the mechanicals are in good order by taking a short
test drive, then I will begin hanging the body panels, and hoping for speedy
progress.
For those of you who asked whether I had any pictures of the car, you can take
a look at the bottom of the website address below to see what it looks like
right now. I hope to be adding some more photo's within the next few days.
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/bn4_2.html
I really wanted to have this car completed by this years British Car Week, but
father time just hasn't been on my side. Next year I plan to take it for a nice
long drive during that week.....
See you on the road......soon,
Scott Helms
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From "Horn, Granville" <GHorn at ci.kent.wa.us>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 11:49:46 -0700
Subject: Headlight alignment
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 15:02:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Headlight alignment
<< Is this technique workable on a Healey, or
does anyone have another method that works? >>
Headlights are headlights.
Here's a site that explains how to do it.
http://www.autooptiks.com/aiming.html
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 15:02:46 -0400
Subject: Headlights.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From EJBJR935 at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 15:52:45 -0400
Subject: Carb Heatshield Insulation- BJ8
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 15:01:36 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-4 engine rebuild
In my car I run the standard low compression pistons with the belief that
the engine runs a few degrees cooler.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
Cc: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 9:52 PM
Subject: Re: 100-4 engine rebuild
Rick,
The M pistons have a shallower dish which gives a higher compression
ratio, 8.6 to 1 I believe. The cams are available from several sources.
You need different valve springs to go with the cam. It is an easy 15%
power increase with practically no harm to reliability. Even more power
with the M intake manifolds & larger carbs. The distributor advance
curve should be changed to match the cam & compression. Since you are
already changing many of the subject parts, it would be easy to
substitute M parts.
Dave Russell
Rick Neves wrote:
> During the process of breaking down my 100-4 engine, my mechanic and I
> discovered the need to replace the pistons. We plan to bring the entire
block
> into better than original specs. While researching the piston purchase I
> noticed the 100M has a higher compression ratio and different pistons. I
> believe they are still the dished out type but I guess there is something
> different about them to deal with the higher ratio. I'm guessing that the
cam
> shaft is different as well and probably hard to come by.
>
> So the question is, should one opt for the 100M type pistons and all that
goes
> with it?
>
> Rick Neves
> BN-2 '56
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 14:06:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Headlights.
Dave Russell
James Lea wrote:
> I need to buy new headlights for my pos ground 62 BT7. Do I need to worry
> if the wiring on the plug will work on new bulbs? Can I use halogens? Any
> recommendations? Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> BT7III
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 14:23:58 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-4 engine rebuild
The flat top pistons that are commonly available will give a compression
ratio of around 10.5 to 1. Too high for use without special racing fuel.
The Hundred engine's combustion chamber design will not permit high
compression ratios like some of the modern engines will. I think that 9
to 1 is about the limit for the Hundred on available pump gas.
Extra compression up to 8.5 to 1, as used on the LeMans should not cause
any problems, & 9 to 1 would be ok if the engine & cooling are in good
condition. You are really only taking advantage of the higher
compression & generating more heat when using heavier throttle settings.
I doubt if the increase in operating temperature would be noticeable.
Dave Russell
BN2
Jim LeBlanc wrote:
> I have heard of using flat top pistons in the 100-4. Any thoughts on
> this idea and would the extra compression be damaging?
>
> In my car I run the standard low compression pistons with the belief
> that the engine runs a few degrees cooler.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jim LeBlanc 1956 100-M
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From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 13:33:14 -0700
Subject: Re: 100-4 engine rebuild
On my second engine, I went with 9.5:1 dished pistons and race connecting
rods. Car runs on premium gas. 2500mi. and no problems.
If you are not going to replace the connecting rods don't go over M-spec
compression.
BrianM
'55 AH-100 LeMans
'03 Mini Cooper-S
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
At 03:01 PM 6/6/2003 -0500, Jim LeBlanc wrote:
>I have heard of using flat top pistons in the 100-4. Any thoughts on this
>idea and would the extra compression be damaging?
>
>In my car I run the standard low compression pistons with the belief that
>the engine runs a few degrees cooler.
>
>Best Regards,
>
>Jim LeBlanc
>1956 100-M
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
>To: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
>Cc: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 9:52 PM
>Subject: Re: 100-4 engine rebuild
>
>
>Rick,
>
>The M pistons have a shallower dish which gives a higher compression
>ratio, 8.6 to 1 I believe. The cams are available from several sources.
>You need different valve springs to go with the cam. It is an easy 15%
>power increase with practically no harm to reliability. Even more power
>with the M intake manifolds & larger carbs. The distributor advance
>curve should be changed to match the cam & compression. Since you are
>already changing many of the subject parts, it would be easy to
>substitute M parts.
>
>Dave Russell
>
>Rick Neves wrote:
> > During the process of breaking down my 100-4 engine, my mechanic and I
> > discovered the need to replace the pistons. We plan to bring the entire
>block
> > into better than original specs. While researching the piston purchase I
> > noticed the 100M has a higher compression ratio and different pistons. I
> > believe they are still the dished out type but I guess there is something
> > different about them to deal with the higher ratio. I'm guessing that the
>cam
> > shaft is different as well and probably hard to come by.
> >
> > So the question is, should one opt for the 100M type pistons and all that
>goes
> > with it?
> >
> > Rick Neves
> > BN-2 '56
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 18:21:08 EDT
Subject: rc healey bodies
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 19:12:17 -0400
Subject: Re: rc healey bodies
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hoylehouse@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 6:21 PM
Subject: rc healey bodies
| Can anyone tell me where i can get a healey body for a rc
chassis......scotty
|
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From "C. Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 19:17:10 -0500
Subject: Re: rc healey bodies
The Midwest Region AHCA sells them. I believe they are 1/32 scale, clear,
injection molded bodies ready for finishing in any color and attachment to
your chassis. They sell for $40. I've copied our member who handles the
orders for us so that he can provide you with more details.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
President Midwest Region Austin Healey Club
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hoylehouse@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 5:21 PM
Subject: rc healey bodies
> Can anyone tell me where i can get a healey body for a rc
chassis......scotty
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 20:33:39 EDT
Subject: Re: rc healey bodies
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 20:36:34 EDT
Subject: BN-1/2 Tonneau Cover
Bill Scannell
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 20:22:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Electronic Tach Pulse
Yep, that's right...the whole top half should turn. You'll know if the pot
goes bad when you try to turn it and the needle gets jumpy. It will be as
if there is an intermittent connection, which is exactly what would be
happening inside the pot.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
> Chris,
>
> Mine is smooth also. Like someone said, these things were not nearly all
> made alike. I ordered parts for mine using a list provided by a list
member.
> Then I opened mine up, very few parts matched. Wan't a big deal, Just
> ordered what was inside. I still appreciated his help.
> About the smooth edged pot, mine has a screw driver slot in the center
that
> looks like only it (the center) should turn. However, the whole thing
turns.
> This is right, isn't it? What happens if the pot goes bad? How does one
tell
> if it is?
>
> Bob Johnson
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 19:31:20 -0600
Subject: Re: BN-1/2 Tonneau Cover
Are you sure that your's is original?
My car is pretty original & it doesn't have anything like you describe.
The studs on the wall below the battery access cover are to fasten the
hold down straps for the battery lid. I think that you must have
something that was added by a previous owner.
BN1HealeyFan@aol.com wrote:
> Does anyone out there have an original BN-1 or BN-2 tonneau cover with the
> two flaps for fastening the open cover down to the rear wall of the passenger
> compartment? Each flap has two (2) Lift-a-Dot fasteners which attach to studs
>on
> the wall below the battery access cover. If anyone has one, I'd like to know
> the exact location of the flaps, measured from the front of the cover. Thanks
> for any help.
>
> Bill Scannell
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 21:36:06 -0400
Subject: Rebound Buffers - Source?
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 19:07:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Carb Heatshield Insulation- BJ8
John Snyder
Original Message -----
From: <EJBJR935@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 12:52 PM
Subject: Carb Heatshield Insulation- BJ8
> Is anyone aware of a source for the heatshield material for the carb
heatshield? It seems foolish to buy an entire shield to get the insulation,
but that is what I have been told I must do. Thank you. Mine is in excellent
condition except for the insulating material. Thank you. EJBJR
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 22:50:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Generator for a 1960 BN7
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 23:03:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine number plate
"Shipping charges will apply if out side of the continental United States"
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 23:27:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Ign light on
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H OVER 1500 SOLD
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 23:46:29 -0500
Subject: RE: rc healey bodies
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of C. Cruz
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 7:17 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; Hoylehouse@aol.com
Cc: Brown, Bob
Subject: Re: rc healey bodies
Hi Scotty & All,
The Midwest Region AHCA sells them. I believe they are 1/32 scale, clear,
injection molded bodies ready for finishing in any color and attachment to
your chassis. They sell for $40. I've copied our member who handles the
orders for us so that he can provide you with more details.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
President Midwest Region Austin Healey Club
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hoylehouse@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 5:21 PM
Subject: rc healey bodies
> Can anyone tell me where i can get a healey body for a rc
chas
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From WhoCares56 at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 01:12:16 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-4 engine rebuild
Carroll
53 BN1 #484
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2003 00:25:56 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-4 engine rebuild
You are correct, the RIGHT FT piston may be ok.
Flat top pistons are not all the same. There have been several
variations of flat top pistons over the years & still are. Due to
differences in the compression height of the pistons, ratios can run
from about 9.5 to 11 to 1.
Also, the calculated or rated compression ratio of an engine does not
tell the whole story. A cam with higher duration will allow higher comp
ratios. I hesitate to make a blanket statement that FT pistons are ok
without knowing all of the details of a particular engine. Glad that
yours is working well.
Dave Russell
WhoCares56@aol.com wrote:
> I run flat top pistons in my 53 100. Compression is about 185. No
> problems in over a year of running
>
> Carroll 53 BN1 #484
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 07:47:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Rebound Buffers - Source?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 9:36 PM
Subject: Rebound Buffers - Source?
> Anybody know where to get rebound buffers for the rear end of a BN-2
>
>
> Sincerely
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2003 09:17:50 -0400
Subject: Re: rc healey bodies
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com>
To: "C. Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<Hoylehouse@aol.com>
Cc: "Brown, Bob" <BlkBT7@aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 12:46 AM
Subject: RE: rc healey bodies
| I believe they're closer to 1/10th scale... typical RC car size (not 1/32)
|
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
| [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of C. Cruz
| Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 7:17 PM
| To: healeys@autox.team.net; Hoylehouse@aol.com
| Cc: Brown, Bob
| Subject: Re: rc healey bodies
|
|
| Hi Scotty & All,
|
| The Midwest Region AHCA sells them. I believe they are 1/32 scale, clear,
| injection molded bodies ready for finishing in any color and attachment to
| your chassis. They sell for $40. I've copied our member who handles the
| orders for us so that he can provide you with more details.
|
| Cheers,
| Carlos Cruz
| President Midwest Region Austin Healey Club
|
|
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: <Hoylehouse@aol.com>
| To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
| Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 5:21 PM
| Subject: rc healey bodies
|
|
| > Can anyone tell me where i can get a healey body for a rc
| chas
|
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 11:06:15 -0400
Subject: Pittsburgh Vintagfe Gran Prix - 2003
If anyone is unsure yet about attending this year's race week-end - rumor
has it that, with acceptable weather, there may be no 'day-of-show' entries
for British Car Day on Saturday. This is a 'rumor', but pre-registration is
running ahead of last year, so far. Please get your entries in if you plan to
attend - it's tough finding parking out on Forbes Avenue.
For Sunday - The Three Rivers A-H Club will have the tent on Flagstaff
Hill for the Larry Smith Memorial Show. Please let us know by 01July if you
plan to attend so we can make space and refreshment arrangements. Drive-ups
are welcome, but the parking area may be limited somewhat right at the tent.
To ease access we will have a 'sign-in sheet' at the entrance.
If there are any questions, feel free to contact me off-list, or leave a
message at 412 405 7589.
Entry forms at www.pittsburghvintagegrandprix.com
Hope to see you there,
CB
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 13:58:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Pittsburgh Vintagfe Gran Prix - 2003
> Bear with me - one last note.
>
> If anyone is unsure yet about attending this year's race week-end - rumor
> has it that, with acceptable weather, there may be no 'day-of-show' entries
> for British Car Day on Saturday. This is a 'rumor', but pre-registration is
> running ahead of last year, so far. Please get your entries in if you plan
> to
> attend - it's tough finding parking out on Forbes Avenue.
>
> For Sunday - The Three Rivers A-H Club will have the tent on Flagstaff
> Hill for the Larry Smith Memorial Show. Please let us know by 01July if you
> plan to attend so we can make space and refreshment arrangements. Drive-ups
> are welcome, but the parking area may be limited somewhat right at the tent.
> To ease access we will have a 'sign-in sheet' at the entrance.
>
> If there are any questions, feel free to contact me off-list, or leave a
> message at 412 405 7589.
>
> Entry forms at www.pittsburghvintagegrandprix.com
>
> Hope to see you there,
We welcome as many as can make it------but-----if you can come for the Sunday
AH function, you MUST sign up ahead of time in order to eat the wonderful
food. We can only plan for those who sgn on up front.
Hope as many as can make it!
Regards
Tom
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2003 17:00:33 -0700
Subject: Re: BN-1/2 Tonneau Cover
I have seen those flaps on 4 seater big Healeys. There is more room
there and more possible need for snap flaps.
-Roland
On Sat, 7 Jun 2003 16:07:57 EDT, you wrote:
::Hi Guys,
::
::Thanks for the replies. But, yes, I am sure that at least the BN-2 had these
::flaps.
::I bought a BN-2 new in the spring of 1956 and drove it for five years. It had
::the flaps for securing the tonneau cover to the rear wall when open. As a
::matter of fact, I have those very flaps which I took off of the BN-2 cover
::because I considered them useless. They sat in my mother's garage for many
:years
::until I got the BN-1 to restore. I thought it would be a nice touch to have
:them
::on the new cover as a bit of an original touch which you don't see anymore.
::
::Bill Scannell
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 20:32:36 EDT
Subject: Re: BN-1/2 Tonneau Cover
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 18:54:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN-1/2 Tonneau Cover
No -
Healey 100s do not have fixing flaps on tonneau covers
like BJ7s and 8s.
Early BN1's have a smaller tonneau cover which snaps
to several small fasteners around the cockpit trim
(like mine, which is around #700). Early healeys had
this because I think the factory used half tonneaus on
racers... and this set up works best if you are using
half tonneaus.
Later BN1s and BN2 have a larger tonneau cover which
clips to the rear convertible top hold down pieces
near the boot hinges with a metal bar like that in the
convertible top - very similar to the MGB set up or
100/6 & 3000 Mk1s and 2s..
hope that clarifies matters..
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
> Interesting question. The parts book (printed 1958
> for the 100's) shows four
> different tonneau numbers, two for cars up to body
> 4605, left and right hand
> drive, and another two for cars from body 4606 on. I
> do not remember ever
> seeing one with the flaps, ala later cars, fit on a
> 100. New information turns up
> every once in a while in the Healey world....
> Aloha
> Perry
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From "Andy Phillips" <andyp at njhealey.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 07:43:38 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Wiring Diagram
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 12:02:01 EDT
Subject: (Still) Sticking clutch
About two months ago, I asked about how to free a long-stuck clutch disc.
With a lot of helpful answers, it finally came loose, and I was able to drive
the
car to its' new home, etc. However, the problem has not gone completely away,
though it IS reduced to perhaps 5% of what it was, and is now easily cleared
by stopping and then starting in gear. It is very disconcerting to be driving
down the street and suddenly be unable to shift. But, when it works, it is as
good as new.
I'm thinking possibly air in the line (reservoir IS, and always was, full),
or perhaps some bits of friction material are still adhering to the flywheel.
It is quite difficult to start smoothly from rest without some driveline
chatter (I guess what the manual calls "judder").
I can bleed the line, and, I suppose "slip" the clutch some while driving to
smooth things a bit. Any other ideas?
The clutch has 80000 miles on it, and the car IS going to be restored within
a year. I do not need to drive it in the interim, other than the occasional
very short Sunday jaunt to keep the juices flowing. Obviously, the clutch is
very near to the end of its' life, and I do not particularly care about it, per
se, but do NOT want to break anything else!!
Thanks again,
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 14:05:20 EDT
Subject: Re: (Still) Sticking clutch
Good luck,
Simon.
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From jbpate at attglobal.net
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 14:05:26 -0400
Subject: Seat Belt location for BJ8
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From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 14:46:58 EDT
Subject: Healey picture on AOL
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From DLthm at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 15:06:26 EDT
Subject: Healey Pic
Regards
Dave
Wales UK
1953 BN1 (fifty years old next month, should I have a party ? the car ! I
am older).
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Healey Bridge.jpg]
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 15:11:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Seat Belt location for BJ8
The other seat belt I-bolt location point is about 4" in forward of the rear
outrigger and just to thr inside of the l/h inner sill.
At least that is where they are located on my BJ8, "Blackie."
Marion Brantley
Concours Committee Member
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 15:25:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Seat Belt location for BJ8
I failed to mention that the right side is also located in the same
respective position on the right side. (About 4" forward of the rear outrigger.)
Marion
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 17:28:55 EDT
Subject: Re: BN-1/2 Tonneau Cover
Bill Scannell
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 18:40:43 -0400
Subject: Wire wheel hubs(again)
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 19:15:27 -0400
Subject: RE: (Still) Sticking clutch
The symptoms that you describe sound to me to be attributable to a
clutch disc which is breaking up. I would suspect that some pieces of
the friction material have broken off as a result of having been stuck
to the flywheel or cover.
The same thing happened to my MGBGT.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of RAHosmer@aol.com
Sent: 8-Jun-03 12:02 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: (Still) Sticking clutch
List,
About two months ago, I asked about how to free a long-stuck clutch
disc.
With a lot of helpful answers, it finally came loose, and I was able to
drive the
car to its' new home, etc. However, the problem has not gone completely
away,
though it IS reduced to perhaps 5% of what it was, and is now easily
cleared
by stopping and then starting in gear. It is very disconcerting to be
driving
down the street and suddenly be unable to shift. But, when it works, it
is as
good as new.
I'm thinking possibly air in the line (reservoir IS, and always was,
full),
or perhaps some bits of friction material are still adhering to the
flywheel.
It is quite difficult to start smoothly from rest without some driveline
chatter (I guess what the manual calls "judder").
I can bleed the line, and, I suppose "slip" the clutch some while
driving to
smooth things a bit. Any other ideas?
The clutch has 80000 miles on it, and the car IS going to be restored
within
a year. I do not need to drive it in the interim, other than the
occasional
very short Sunday jaunt to keep the juices flowing. Obviously, the
clutch is
very near to the end of its' life, and I do not particularly care about
it, per
se, but do NOT want to break anything else!!
Thanks again,
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 19:15:44 EDT
Subject: Trying to Trace a Car
Bill Scannell
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 17:18:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Wire wheel hubs(again)
First, you did have the weight off of the wheels when you tightened
didn't you.
I have found that the caps tend to self tighten as you drive. Others
claim the opposite. take your pick.
As you say, they weren't tight to begin with. I think that maybe new or
different wheels may have to form or adjust to the mounting surfaces at
first & may need to be watched for a while as you are doing. They may be
tight at first but loosen as the wheel center forms to the hub.
A half inch of turn on the cap is about .003" to .005" of slack takeup.
This isn't very much. If the new wheel centers don't exactly match the
old hubs in angles, taper, & size I can see where there could be this
much slack.
Dave Russell
Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> I put on the wheels, hammered on the knock offs, painted the
> reference lines that Steve Byers suggested, and noticed some
> mis-alignment of the lines on the front wheels after about 50 miles,
> but in the desired direction (tighter). I raised the car to check,
> and the wheels were slightly loose.
>I was able to tighten the knock off up
> about another 1/2" or so, with effort. All I can think of is, they
> weren't tight to begin with, and I had a similar threading problem.
> What's bugging me is; I'm sure I would have noticed that the wheels
> weren't tight when I did them up originally, but I haven't been able
> to think of another explanation. By the way, the back wheels are fine.
> Bit of a ramble, but I thought I'd throw it out there,
> Stephen,
> BJ8
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 19:31:02 -0400
Subject: Knock-off hammer at Harbor Freight
I just tried to look them up on the web site (www.harborfreight.com) but
didn't find any -- however, if there's a Harbor Freight store in your area,
it might be worth dropping by.
Oh by the way, one of the current killer deals is a 6" digital caliper (in/mm)
for $19.99. Accurate enough that the Mitotoyo stays in the drawer.
--
John Miller
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From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 19:34:54 -0400
Subject: Monza exhausts
I think it may be getting close to exhaust replacing time. I
presently have a Monza exhaust on the car and love the sound of it and would
like to replace it with another one. Does anyone know if these exhausts are
still made and who carries them?
Mike Brouillette
Bedford, NH
59 BT7
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 19:34:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Trying to Trace a Car
If you had a BN-2, why is your screen name "BN1HealeyFan"?
Regards.
Steve Mickelson
Trying to help the Healey 100 Registries
In a message dated 6/8/2003 4:17:11 PM Pacific Standard Time,
BN1HealeyFan@aol.com writes:
> I would like to know if a BN-2 with serial number 1B231036M is still
> around.
> I bought it in 1956 and sold it in 1961 in Long Beach, CA
>
> Bill Scannell
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 19:47:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Trying to Trace a Car
Bill Scannell
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 20:25:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Wire wheel hubs(again)
No, there must be no "pick" about it. Lives are at stake.
Knock-off wheels, by design, tighten by driving. That's the reason one side
of the car has left-hand threads.
If anyone has knock-off wheels that loosen while driving, either the hubs have
been reversed L-R, or the hub and/or wheel splines are severly worn. Either
way, attention is required. Failure to do so could prove fatal.
--
John Miller
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 21:34:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Wire wheel hubs(again)
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 18:35:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Knock-off hammer at Harbor Freight
The reason why you don't see it on the Harbor Freight
Website is the two businesses are owned by seperate
and feuding members of the same family. So if you see
it in the store, it may or may not necessarily be on
the website. By the way I saw those same hammers last
time I was stateside in Cali - they are very nice.
But for my dollar if you aren't going original to
start with, the shot peen dead blow hammers are much
less abusive on the knock offs.
alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Miller <healeys@n4vu.com> wrote:
> I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with
> my own eyes. Dropped by
> a new Harbor Freight store in Atlanta (Lilburn) and
> there on the wall were
> steel-headed hammers with copper faces -- almost
> exactly like in the toolkit
> of my BJ8 when it was new. I think they were about
> $6.00 or something silly.
>
> I just tried to look them up on the web site
> (www.harborfreight.com) but
> didn't find any -- however, if there's a Harbor
> Freight store in your area,
> it might be worth dropping by.
>
> Oh by the way, one of the current killer deals is a
> 6" digital caliper (in/mm)
> for $19.99. Accurate enough that the Mitotoyo stays
> in the drawer.
>
> --
> John Miller
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 18:40:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Monza exhausts
--- Mike Brouillette <brouillette@attbi.com> wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I think it may be getting close to exhaust
> replacing time. I
> presently have a Monza exhaust on the car and love
> the sound of it and would
> like to replace it with another one. Does anyone
> know if these exhausts are
> still made and who carries them?
>
> Mike Brouillette
> Bedford, NH
> 59 BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 18:59:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Wire wheel hubs(again)
Are you tightening your knock offs down enough? I've
had many british mechanics tell me this is the one
thing on the car you want to really seat well - I use
the long wrench you can buy from Moss or Victoria
British, and use very firm pressure to tighten the
knock offs.
If you don't tighten these down enough they can come
loose - wearing your new hubs in the process.
Particularly with a BJ8 having 8 TPI on the hubs...
you can really put a solid amount of force on the
knock off.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Stephen Hutchings <hutching@the-wire.com> wrote:
> I've got a situation I'd like your thoughts on. I've
> got new wire
> wheels and hubs from AH spares, and I'm using the
> original knock
> offs. I remember a recent thread on new knock offs
> having trouble
> with their threads, and I'm wondering if I'm
> experiencing the same
> phenomenom , in reverse.
> I put on the wheels, hammered on the knock offs,
> painted the
> reference lines that Steve Byers suggested, and
> noticed some
> mis-alignment of the lines on the front wheels after
> about 50 miles,
> but in the desired direction (tighter). I raised the
> car to check,
> and the wheels were slightly loose. No, the hubs are
> not on the wrong
> sides.
> Now, I've had this car for many years, I've never
> experienced loose
> wheels, and I thought I had a pretty good idea of
> judging when a
> wheel was done up properly. I was able to tighten
> the knock off up
> about another 1/2" or so, with effort. All I can
> think of is, they
> weren't tight to begin with, and I had a similar
> threading problem.
> What's bugging me is; I'm sure I would have noticed
> that the wheels
> weren't tight when I did them up originally, but I
> haven't been able
> to think of another explanation. By the way, the
> back wheels are fine.
> Bit of a ramble, but I thought I'd throw it out
> there,
> Stephen,
> BJ8
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From "Kufchak" <leemar at bendcable.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 19:20:55 -0700
Subject: Speedo Problem
I just wanted to thank each of you who responded and helped me with this
problem. Hopefully, as I gain some experience, I can pass on the info I have
learned, just as you have helped me.
Thanks again, Lee BJ8
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 20:46:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Wire wheel hubs(again)
I know that they are designed to self tighten. The case of severely worn
parts is possibly an exception. I was leaving room for other opinions
since I have not personally experienced everything that can happen.
I doubt if it really makes much difference which is assumed.
If we assume that they self loosen, then we will frequently check & try
to tighten them. Does no harm & could be the safest assumption. If by
some chance they are loose it will be corrected.
If we assume that they self tighten, then we may not be inclined to pay
as much attention to them, and because they do self tighten, no harm is
done.
Dave Russell
John Miller wrote:
> On Sunday, June 08, 2003 19:18, Dave & Marlene wrote:
>
>>I have found that the caps tend to self tighten as you drive. Others
>>claim the opposite. take your pick.
>
>
> No, there must be no "pick" about it. Lives are at stake.
>
> Knock-off wheels, by design, tighten by driving. That's the reason one side
> of the car has left-hand threads.
>
> If anyone has knock-off wheels that loosen while driving, either the hubs
>have
> been reversed L-R, or the hub and/or wheel splines are severly worn. Either
> way, attention is required. Failure to do so could prove fatal.
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 21:52:26 -0500
Subject: Looking for an orignal owner
I have an orignal shop manual for my hundred, on the inside cover it is
signed "Jack W. Bagley, 353 N Sunnyvale Ave, Sunnyvale, CA, 1954"
Jack are you out there?, anybody know Jack?
In addition to the Healey connection my mother's maiden name was badgley,
he may even be a distant relative.
Just curious, repsond if any knowledge, I won't hold my breath.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 20:03:26 -0700
Subject: Knock-off hammer at Harbor Freight
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California
I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes.
Dropped by
a new Harbor Freight store in Atlanta (Lilburn) and there on the wall
were
steel-headed hammers with copper faces -- almost exactly like in the
toolkit
of my BJ8 when it was new. I think they were about $6.00 or something
silly.
I just tried to look them up on the web site (www.harborfreight.com) but
didn't find any -- however, if there's a Harbor Freight store in your
area,
it might be worth dropping by.
Oh by the way, one of the current killer deals is a 6" digital caliper
(in/mm)
for $19.99. Accurate enough that the Mitotoyo stays in the drawer.
--
John Miller
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 20:44:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Knock-off hammer at Harbor Freight
They have a couple Harbor Freight stores in Northern
California. They are great!
Lots of cheap stuff for one time jobs, and the quality
is good enough to get the job done. Most of the stuff
is imported out of China, that's why it's so cheap.
Don't bother to go there for fancy or high end
tools... they don't have any.
It's a pretty cool store, everyone I know loves
walking through it.
See if they are close to you here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/retail_stores.taf#CA
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
earthlink.net> wrote:
> John - I lived in Dunwoody in the early '70's and
> built a large mfg.
> plant out on the Peachtree Industrial Highway in
> Norcross. I don't
> remember a Harbor Freight chain of stores. Are they
> new? Coast-to-coast?
>
> Terry Blubaugh
> Southern California
>
>
>
> I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with
> my own eyes.
> Dropped by
> a new Harbor Freight store in Atlanta (Lilburn) and
> there on the wall
> were
> steel-headed hammers with copper faces -- almost
> exactly like in the
> toolkit
> of my BJ8 when it was new. I think they were about
> $6.00 or something
> silly.
>
> I just tried to look them up on the web site
> (www.harborfreight.com) but
> didn't find any -- however, if there's a Harbor
> Freight store in your
> area,
> it might be worth dropping by.
>
> Oh by the way, one of the current killer deals is a
> 6" digital caliper
> (in/mm)
> for $19.99. Accurate enough that the Mitotoyo stays
> in the drawer.
>
> --
> John Miller
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 23:53:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Wire wheel hubs(again)
<< What's bugging me is; I'm sure I would have noticed that the wheels
weren't tight when I did them up originally, but I haven't been able
to think of another explanation. >>
If the hub spins enough how do you know if it tightened or looosened so much
it was on the marks side again?
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 00:38:33 EDT
Subject: question about wire wheel conversions
Thanks,
Rick
San Diego
PS, I have checked the clearance of the splined hub to the disc brake style
hub and it clears the bearing cap.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 22:41:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: question about wire wheel conversions
When I first bought my BJ8 - it had this exact set up
on it - disc wheel front hubs with rear spline hubs
bolted on. (previous owner had Buick Mag wheels on
the car... I took them off and put the splines on) At
first I thought this was original until I noticed a
few problems....
The most obvious problem is this setup resulted in the
track in the front being much wider than the rear -
your front wheels will stick out past the wheel arch
opening.... which comes to the next problem -
I had the BJ8 painted and literally coming home from
the paint shop I hit a pothole and the wide tracked
wheels struck the fender opening and damaged my brand
new paintjob....
Keep in mind I had a disc brake/disc wheel front hub
so maybe with your 100/6 you may not have this problem
(i.e. do you have drum brakes?)... I don't know how
the front on your healey is set up... but you may end
up having a similar problem... you need to check and
measure it all up.
By the way, any racers on the list want my front disc
wheel hubs? let me know...
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> Ok,
> Here's a question that might not have come up, at
> least not in this direction.
> I've got a Disc Wheel car. Bolt on wheels.
> Is there any reason that I could not get four
> factory rear wheel splined hubs
> and bolt them on, then install a set of wire wheels?
> I understand that I may need either shorter studs or
> wheel spacers behind the
> splined hubs to clear the wheels from the
> studs/lugs.
>
> Thanks,
> Rick
> San Diego
>
> PS, I have checked the clearance of the splined hub
> to the disc brake style
> hub and it clears the bearing cap.
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 16:21:39 +1000
Subject: Re: question about wire wheel conversions
Why not just get bolt on minilite type wheels? The guy down the road from me
just put a set of bolt on minilites on his MKII Jag - transformed the look
of the car. The steel wheels did nothing for it.
Minilite bolt on wheels are stronger, easier to balance, maintain and are
cheaper than wires. They are lighter too - and not having the splined hub/
knock off etc dramatically reduces the unsprung weight.
I have centrelock splined minlites - but only because I replaced all the
splined hubs/bearings/rotors etc during the restoration - and then when I
decided to go minilite type - it wasn't economic to start again with bolt
ons.
But hey - if you already have bolt on hubs - I'd put bolt on minilites on.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 2:38 PM
Subject: question about wire wheel conversions
> Ok,
> Here's a question that might not have come up, at least not in this
direction.
> I've got a Disc Wheel car. Bolt on wheels.
> Is there any reason that I could not get four factory rear wheel splined
hubs
> and bolt them on, then install a set of wire wheels?
> I understand that I may need either shorter studs or wheel spacers behind
the
> splined hubs to clear the wheels from the studs/lugs.
>
> Thanks,
> Rick
> San Diego
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 02:27:32 EDT
Subject: Re: question about wire wheel conversions
<< Hi Rick,
Why not just get bolt on minilite type wheels? The guy down the road from me
just put a set of bolt on minilites on his MKII Jag - transformed the look
of the car. The steel wheels did nothing for it. >>
That I've got.
See my car at http://members.aol.com/wilko
I just want to build it up to original works type setup (many have helped me
tremendously through the years here, thanks) and have the option of putting on
good ol' painted wire wheels for that classic look once in a while.
Rick
San Diego
still waiting to get my engine back from the shop and I forgot to order my
triple weber Manifold from S.U. Midel...
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 02:36:08 EDT
Subject: Re: question about wire wheel conversions
This kinda like deja-vu all over again. Without actually ever getting into
physical fit and measurements, I've idly wondered for 40 years WHY they did not
handle the issue by starting with a basic setup for the cheaper disc wheels,
and then just adding adapters for the wires, when fitted, at both front AND
rear. Now, I have finally learned why; the suspension components they used
just
don't have enough room for a bolt-in add at the front.
Did disc wheels start with the 3000, or were they available on the 100-6 as
well? I'm pretty sure the four-cylinder cars had wires only.
My first Healey was a very early red with gray interior BN7 with disc wheels
(I THINK the license was black on gold AVT159). Some day I will find the
papers and ask the registries if it is still around (was a CA car, so at least
it
should not have rotted out)
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 05:50:48 -0500
Subject: Looking for an orignal owner
> I noticed that a couple of people have posted that they bought hundreds
new
> or near new here on the list lately.
>
> I have an orignal shop manual for my hundred, on the inside cover it is
> signed "Jack W. Bagley, 353 N Sunnyvale Ave, Sunnyvale, CA, 1954"
>
> Jack are you out there?, anybody know Jack?
>
> In addition to the Healey connection my mother's maiden name was badgley,
> he may even be a distant relative.
>
> Just curious, repsond if any knowledge, I won't hold my breath.
>
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 08:32:08 -0400
Subject: Re: question about wire wheel conversions
Jim
Rally Rep with Minilites.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; <WilKo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> I just want to build it up to original works type setup (many have helped
me
> tremendously through the years here, thanks) and have the option of
putting on
> good ol' painted wire wheels for that classic look once in a while.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 10:04:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Looking for an orignal owner
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 11:28:30 EDT
Subject: Dist Vacume advance unit
I'm 'rejuvinating' my 1961 BT7 distributor. Vacume unit was frozen, but
after 5-6 weeks of spraying w/ "Areokroil" and it seems to move.
Question: How hard should it be to move V. advance arm with finger?
Searched archives, but to no avail. Any ideas or advice.
TIA,
Cheers, David / Mrs. Peel
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 11:50:07 -0400
Subject: Wire wheel hubs-conclusion?
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 12:07:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Wire wheel hubs-conclusion?
I had the same problem when I mounted my NEW wheels on NEW hubs. The
paint on the wheels prevents the final tightening. Once it get worn off
everything stays tight. Advice - remove the pint where the knock-off
contacts the wheel befor first use.
Bill Schmidt
1956 100m (since '81)
On Mon, 9 Jun 2003 11:50:07 -0400 Stephen Hutchings
<hutching@the-wire.com> writes:
> Thanks for your thoughts; In reply to Alan, I thought that I was
> tightening them down enough, but it turns out that new wheels may
> require special attention.
> Bill Schmidt's comments about the paint, and Dave Russell's about
> "seating" new wheels may get to the heart of the matter; a new set
> of
> wheels and hubs reqiure more torque the first couple of times,
> because of the "virgin" surfaces, and the paint. I don't know why
> this didn't happen to the rears, but I plan to watch the fronts
> extra
> carefully until I'm satisfied they aren't moving at all. (I know ,
> they have to go around and around!)
> Thanks,
> Stephen, BJ8
>
> >
>
________________________________________________________________
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2003 11:16:39 -0500
Subject: RE: rc healey bodies - correction
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 12:51:38 -0400
Subject: Wires in screw terminals
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2003 12:27:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Dist Vacume advance unit
Dave Russell
BN2
DMMax@aol.com wrote:
> Good Day,
>
> I'm 'rejuvinating' my 1961 BT7 distributor. Vacume unit was frozen, but
> after 5-6 weeks of spraying w/ "Areokroil" and it seems to move.
>
> Question: How hard should it be to move V. advance arm with finger?
>
> Searched archives, but to no avail. Any ideas or advice.
>
> TIA,
> Cheers, David / Mrs. Peel
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 15:14:34 EDT
Subject: Plugs for a 100 Le Mans
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Trmgafun at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2003 16:01:44 -0400
Subject: BN1 Parts FS
Two doors and one aluminum dash available (BN1). Dash needs refinishing, and
one of the doors has a dent. Hinges are attached. Owner is asking $100 for the
caboodle. If interested contact Lou at Surrey Motorsports in Niles, Michigan
(269) 684-0362.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 15:11:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Wires in screw terminals
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 17:04:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Wires in screw terminals
> no
And as a matter of fact, it's better not to solder them; solder makes
[stranded] wires more susceptible to being broken by vibration. (There are
some mil-spec applications where soldering is prohibited for that reason --
only crimped connections are permitted.)
--
John Miller, N4VU
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2003 15:21:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Plugs for a 100 Le Mans
According to my info, The RN12YC is one step hotter than the N5. The
RN12 is a resistor type plug with projected nose. The N5 is a standard
nose non resistor type.
Dave Russell
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> What is the difference in heat range ("Cold" versus "Hot") between Champion
> N-5's and Champion RN12YC's?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Dave Caudle" <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 09:33:53 -0400
Subject: Conclave Video
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 17:33:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Plugs for a 100 Le Mans
> resistor type with projected nose
>
> Dave:
That's just how my wife describes me!
> Thanks--Michael
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 18:39:32 EDT
Subject: brake lines
i hope all is well. i need a little help. one of my brake lines started to
leak. it is the line that goes from the cannister to the master cylinder. i
have
removed the bad one and ordered a new one from a shop in conn. the line i
took out looks like stainless steel. the replacement looks to be copper. is
this
correct. thanks for the help.
mitch
1963 bj7
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 20:06:15 -0500
Subject: Re: brake lines
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 21:17:18 -0400
Subject: RE: Dist Vacume advance unit
You are pushing against a fairly strong spring so the arm is hard to
push. I would recommend hooking the unit up to a vacuum source and
testing it that way.
The numbers stamped on the vacuum unit e.g. 5 - 27 - 17 indicate the
following.
5 = vacuum in inches when the unit starts to move
27 = the vacuum when the unit reaches full range
17 = the degrees of distributor rotation that the vacuum unit advances
in total.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of DMMax@aol.com
Sent: 9-Jun-03 11:29 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Dist Vacume advance unit
Good Day,
I'm 'rejuvinating' my 1961 BT7 distributor. Vacume unit was frozen, but
after 5-6 weeks of spraying w/ "Areokroil" and it seems to move.
Question: How hard should it be to move V. advance arm with finger?
Searched archives, but to no avail. Any ideas or advice.
TIA,
Cheers, David / Mrs. Peel
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 21:23:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Dist Vacume advance unit
Dave's suggestion is a good one. Get a piece of rubber tubing which will
press on the fitting on the advance. However, rather than use your own
suction which provides minimal movement, connect to a golf or tennis size
rubber bulb. This will allow you to work the mechanism many times and
smooth it out and free it up - and without passing out!
MY .02
Keith Pennell
> D,
> How hard it is to move with your finger is kind of subjective. Fairly
> hard I think. A better test would be to apply vacuum (your own suction)
> to it. It should move smoothly in both directions & hold it's position
> when the vacuum is stopped off.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
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From rhhs at onecom.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2003 21:46:48 -0400
Subject: 66 BJ8 Questions and Observations.
Now for my question. The car has near 300 mi. on it. The transmission has
30 weight non-detergent. I tried 15/50 oil, and it made no difference to my
problem. This is the first big Healy, I have ever driven. I'm very used to
a 59 TR3. When going in and out of overdrive the TR was very positive. Just
like a manual shift. This car is very soft and if you put gas on, you can
make it run away for a half a second or so. The other thing that it did this
afternoon is as I was going on the freeway at 55 mi. in in overdrive. It
shifted into neutral. The stick actually went to neutral. A short time
later, I was on the side road very much like a roller coaster very short up-
and-down grades on a downgraded it went into neutral a second time. I was
slowing down at the time. So then I decided to see if I could make it to it.
I was unable to make it do it for the rest of the 40 mi. trip. I'm open to
any ideas
Bob Sturdevant
Warren, Ohio
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From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at attbi.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 22:16:56 -0400
Subject: RE: question about wire wheel conversions
I have a "standard class" BT7 with steel wheels, and for years coveted the
chrome wires look. I considered the conversion, and started collecting the
parts. After much reading and discussion however, I decided to keep the
original setup and get alloys. I got 5.5 x 15" Panasports from Sports and
Classics in Conn. years ago; I have no idea if they still sell them. The
finish is nice, they look and ride great. No scuttle shake. I put on
195/65 Dunlops, and confess to adding the 3-eared knock-offs. The offset on
the front is a bit too much, but they look great on the rear. I relocated
the bump-stops inside the coils to prevent the tires from touching the
fenders. I would love to trade a pair with someone who has the same setup,
but with 5" rims.
For shows, I'm just a lug wrench away from the steel wheels, which
admitadely don't have the looks of wires, but they are much rarer, and offer
a nice contrast to all those spokes!
Neal '61 BT7L11042
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of WilKo@aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 12:39 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: question about wire wheel conversions
Ok,
Here's a question that might not have come up, at least not in this
direction.
I've got a Disc Wheel car. Bolt on wheels.
Is there any reason that I could not get four factory rear wheel splined
hubs
and bolt them on, then install a set of wire wheels?
I understand that I may need either shorter studs or wheel spacers behind
the
splined hubs to clear the wheels from the studs/lugs.
Thanks,
Rick
San Diego
PS, I have checked the clearance of the splined hub to the disc brake style
hub and it clears the bearing cap.
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From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at attbi.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 22:43:38 -0400
Subject: RE: 66 BJ8 Questions and Observations.
My tranny will sometimes slip out of 2nd into neutral if I am using it to
slow down. I've heard it is a common symtom of wear, and seem to remember
some sprung balls and detents for the selector shafts may be a factor. I
don't think the overdrive is the cause-your tranny might be worn in 3rd or
4th, and it may go into neutral when overdrive is not engaged.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of rhhs@onecom.com
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 9:47 PM
To: Healey Help List
Subject: 66 BJ8 Questions and Observations.
I have been reading the list for the year it has taken me to restore this
BJ8
and have learned many things. Thank you all.
As an observation. I put the first 200 mi. on this car with no front end
and
no interior. It ran very well. The outside temperature here in Ohio being
in the low seventies. The car would constantly run at at 185, which is the
thermostat. Now that the front and is on outside Still in the
mid-seventies.
The car runs 195. I thought that was an interesting observation.
Now for my question. The car has near 300 mi. on it. The transmission has
30 weight non-detergent. I tried 15/50 oil, and it made no difference to
my
problem. This is the first big Healy, I have ever driven. I'm very used to
a 59 TR3. When going in and out of overdrive the TR was very positive. Just
like a manual shift. This car is very soft and if you put gas on, you can
make it run away for a half a second or so. The other thing that it did
this
afternoon is as I was going on the freeway at 55 mi. in in overdrive. It
shifted into neutral. The stick actually went to neutral. A short time
later, I was on the side road very much like a roller coaster very short up-
and-down grades on a downgraded it went into neutral a second time. I was
slowing down at the time. So then I decided to see if I could make it to
it.
I was unable to make it do it for the rest of the 40 mi. trip. I'm open to
any ideas
Bob Sturdevant
Warren, Ohio
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 23:27:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave Video
David Nock
Co Chair Open Roads 04
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 23:28:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Wires in screw terminals
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
When I am in a used book store , I always go looking for old , British Car
books.
Sometime ago I found one about LUCAS ignition . The store owner told me he
had had these books 10 years and never sold one , so I purchased his complete
stock .
This book tells just about everything you would need to know about " HOW
IT WORKS ''. For example , the coil - function and troubleshooting ,
distributors , centrifugal and vacuum advance , high performance engines ,
timing light
. electronic ignition , trouble shooting .
The last 41 pages list over 1,000 distributors by part number, model ,
centrifugal advance degrees at three different R.P.M , and at what R.P.M there
is
zero advance .
Copies are available for $ 15.00 + S.H Norman Nock - British Car
Specialists
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 21:05:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 66 BJ8 Questions and Observations.
I had this same problem with the car popping out of
gear in 2nd gear while decellerating on my BJ8. It
turned out the little selector balls and springs were
missing on my gear box - they are located undearneath
the top cover towards the front. These are very easy
to replace and don't cost that much. Once fixed it
never pops out anymore.
Regarding your OD... in general both of my healeys are
pretty soft going into OD, and harder coming out of
it. Sometimes depending on whether I've used it alot
or not it'll seem softer - so the soft OD shifting
might stiffen up after you start using the car
regularly. If not.. your OD pump cam might be worn a
bit.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- rhhs@onecom.com wrote:
> I have been reading the list for the year it has
> taken me to restore this BJ8
> and have learned many things. Thank you all.
> As an observation. I put the first 200 mi. on this
> car with no front end and
> no interior. It ran very well. The outside
> temperature here in Ohio being
> in the low seventies. The car would constantly run
> at at 185, which is the
> thermostat. Now that the front and is on outside
> Still in the mid-seventies.
> The car runs 195. I thought that was an interesting
> observation.
>
> Now for my question. The car has near 300 mi. on
> it. The transmission has
> 30 weight non-detergent. I tried 15/50 oil, and it
> made no difference to my
> problem. This is the first big Healy, I have ever
> driven. I'm very used to
> a 59 TR3. When going in and out of overdrive the TR
> was very positive. Just
> like a manual shift. This car is very soft and if
> you put gas on, you can
> make it run away for a half a second or so. The
> other thing that it did this
> afternoon is as I was going on the freeway at 55 mi.
> in in overdrive. It
> shifted into neutral. The stick actually went to
> neutral. A short time
> later, I was on the side road very much like a
> roller coaster very short up-
> and-down grades on a downgraded it went into neutral
> a second time. I was
> slowing down at the time. So then I decided to see
> if I could make it to it.
> I was unable to make it do it for the rest of the 40
> mi. trip. I'm open to
> any ideas
> Bob Sturdevant
> Warren, Ohio
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 03:03:19 EDT
Subject: Re: 66 BJ8 Questions and Observations.
Regards, Gary
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 08:08:58 -0400
Subject: LeMans ignition
One of immediate mysteries is that the vacuum advance tube to the distribution
has been removed. The motor still sounds great, but I assume that even the
special M mods distributor still needs some kind of advance. Before I put in a
new tube, can someone verify that the M distributor is not equipped with
heavier centrifugal weights that obviate the need for a vacuum advance?
I look forward to dialoguing with other M owners. My prior Healeys were a very
late serial BJ8 and a '54 BN1 -- Alpha and Omega, as my wife called them.
After restoring Omega was sold to buy Alpha, which we restored from the ground
up, but sold it to buy a new furnace. The furnace lasted six years. Anyway,
I'm back, eager as ever for dirty fingernails and bruised knuckles.
Allen Miller
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 07:45:28 -0600
Subject: Re: LeMans ignition
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 6:08 AM
Subject: LeMans ignition
> Hi, everyone. I am new to this list, having succumbed to Healey Syndrome
> after a 20-year remission. My recurrence coincides with the purchase of a
> quite intact, unrestored '56 factory 100-M, which unfortunately comes
with
> little history from the prior owner.
>
> One of immediate mysteries is that the vacuum advance tube to the
distribution
> has been removed. The motor still sounds great, but I assume that even the
> special M mods distributor still needs some kind of advance. Before I put
in a
> new tube, can someone verify that the M distributor is not equipped with
> heavier centrifugal weights that obviate the need for a vacuum advance?
>
> I look forward to dialoguing with other M owners. My prior Healeys were a
very
> late serial BJ8 and a '54 BN1 -- Alpha and Omega, as my wife called them.
> After restoring Omega was sold to buy Alpha, which we restored from the
ground
> up, but sold it to buy a new furnace. The furnace lasted six years.
Anyway,
> I'm back, eager as ever for dirty fingernails and bruised knuckles.
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ahy3000 at attbi.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 15:00:04 +0000
Subject: BJ7 questions
I'm about to put some Moss seatbelts into my BJ7. I found 2 of the 3 mounting
points easily (trans tunnel, wheel arch). The third must be on the floor near
the door sills. Anybody done this recently and remember where they are?
I just got most of the pieces to reinstall my windshield washers. I'm assuming
the bottle and cage sit in the round hole in the parcel shelf. Yes? How does
one get to the washer nozzles - I couldn't get to them from under the dashboard.
Just installed a Texas Cooler and a clutch pedal extension that I devised
myself. It's the first day in ages with no rain so I'm off to enjoy a drive.
Cheers.
BW
--
Burt Weiner
'63 BJ7
HBJ7L/23582
ahy3000@attbi.com
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 12:32:57 -0400
Subject: Re: LeMans ignition
David Nock
British Car Specialists
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 09:33:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Rear end clunk
Thanks in advance
Jim Wood
67 BJ8
__________________________________
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 12:02:42 -0700
Subject: Mysterious Tapping Noise on Braking
I have all-new splined hubs and wheels, and the wheels are definitely tight.
The rear drums need to be adjusted, as the brake lever extends about to the
11 o'clock position.
Would appreciate input on what this might be.
Thanks in advance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 12:08:20 -0700
Subject: Leno Sighting at Pasadena Cruise
That was interesting, but what was really interesting was the car he
brought.
It's an enormous 2-seater (approx 25 ft long) which looks like a land-speed
car from the 20's or 30's. It has a polished aluminum body and an 1800 cu
in, air-cooled Chrysler V12 Patton Tank engine. It's unsupercharged, and he
says the power is 880-1000 hp.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 15:45:02 -0400
Subject: Re: brake lines
On my car, I noticed a little "dampness" on the rear axle
housing. I discovered that when I applied the brakes, the
pressure in the lines was enough to let some of the brake fluid
seep through a small (i.e. microscopic) hole. When the brakes
were not applied, the line would not seep. Ergo, I couldn't
really see a leak, only the result of the leaking that had taken
place when I was driving.
Luckily, I found the problem before I had a gusher (and no
brakes, of course!!). I replaced all my lines with steel
lines. This list has had debates over copper vs steel, and
steel seems to win out everytime. At any rate, if you are
noticing some leakage, it might be worthwile to check all the
lines before catastrophe visits.
best wishes
-skip-
APPRAISE11@aol.com wrote:
>
> hey everybody,
>
> i hope all is well. i need a little help. one of my brake lines started to
> leak. it is the line that goes from the cannister to the master cylinder. i
>have
> removed the bad one and ordered a new one from a shop in conn. the line i
> took out looks like stainless steel. the replacement looks to be copper. is
>this
> correct. thanks for the help.
>
> mitch
> 1963 bj7
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 15:49:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Mysterious Tapping Noise on Braking
Sorry, I couldn't resist.
Actually, I heard a "Car Talk" question once like this.
"Are you married?"
"Yes".
"Well, tie your wife to the rear of the car and..."
On Tue, 10 Jun 2003 12:02:42 -0700 Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
writes:
> My car, all drum brakes, has a light tap-tap-tapping noise which
>
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 16:23:22 -0400
Subject: 4200 rpms
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 14:52:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Leno Sighting at Pasadena Cruise
Not sure what 'Babs' is. It reminded me of Ab Jenkins' Mormon Meteor more
than anything else, but didn't look like any particular car.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
> Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 15:57:46 -0400
> To: sgerow@singular.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Leno Sighting at Pasadena Cruise
>
> Well, if it had a "Patton engine", it was probably built (or re-engined)
> after 1950. Standard Patton M-47 engine was a V-12 Continental of 810 HP
> at 2800 RPM. Compression ratio is only 6.5:1 so it could easily produce
> 900+ HP with modern mods. Later tanks used different engines but I don't
> think they were Chryslers. Must be a beast. Did it look like "Babs"?
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From Richard Gordon <HealeyHundred at comcast.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 16:58:32 -0600
Subject: Harbor Freight
I have purchased a few items there and the cheap and quality references
definately apply! Eg. a bag of rubber hold downs with s clips on each
end for $15.00 didn't last long enough to consider them used. If you
want quality go elsewhere.
Richard
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 09:58:11 +1000
Subject: RE: LeMans ignition
Welcome back to the fold. I suspect that you will find that over 20 plus years
two major changes to the world of Austin-Healeys. One being that parts are very
easy to find and the cars themselves are very much more expensive.
Way back in the early 1970s when I was entertaining myself on various race
circuits over Eastern Australia I had the distributor of my BN1 rebuilt by a
competition specialist. It came back to me minus its vacuum advance. When I
questioned it he said that it had been set up for racing which meant that the
advance from the weights was sufficient. It was all Greek to me back then as it
remains so.
I believe that car (chassis no 150616) is now in the US somewhere.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Allen C Miller, Jr. [mailto:acmiller@mhcable.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 10:09 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: LeMans ignition
Hi, everyone. I am new to this list, having succumbed to Healey Syndrome
after a 20-year remission. My recurrence coincides with the purchase of a
quite intact, unrestored '56 factory 100-M, which unfortunately comes with
little history from the prior owner.
One of immediate mysteries is that the vacuum advance tube to the distribution
has been removed. The motor still sounds great, but I assume that even the
special M mods distributor still needs some kind of advance. Before I put in a
new tube, can someone verify that the M distributor is not equipped with
heavier centrifugal weights that obviate the need for a vacuum advance?
I look forward to dialoguing with other M owners. My prior Healeys were a very
late serial BJ8 and a '54 BN1 -- Alpha and Omega, as my wife called them.
After restoring Omega was sold to buy Alpha, which we restored from the ground
up, but sold it to buy a new furnace. The furnace lasted six years. Anyway,
I'm back, eager as ever for dirty fingernails and bruised knuckles.
Allen Miller
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
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From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 17:03:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Leno Sighting at Pasadena Cruise
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 20:48:17 -0400
Subject: Pittsburgh area Healey sighting
Anyone on the list - and did you get home OK?
CB
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 12:10:40 -0700
Subject: Visit to England (Wales)
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 20:23:58 -0400
Subject: RE: Harbor Freight
In all, I believe that it took them more than three months to get
me the proper jack.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Richard Gordon
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 6:59 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Harbor Freight
Lots of cheap stuff for one time jobs, and the quality
is good enough to get the job done. Most of the stuff
is imported out of China, that's why it's so cheap.
Don't bother to go there for fancy or high end
tools... they don't have any.
I have purchased a few items there and the cheap and quality references
definately apply! Eg. a bag of rubber hold downs with s clips on each
end for $15.00 didn't last long enough to consider them used. If you
want quality go elsewhere.
Richard
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From "Larry Dickstein" <lonejacklarry at kcweb.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 19:40:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Mysterious Tapping Noise on Braking
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
> My car, all drum brakes, has a light tap-tap-tapping noise which seems to
> occur under the right side of the car on light, low speed braking, as when
> finishing rolling up to a stop sign. It is not apparent on heavier
braking. > Would appreciate input on what this might be.
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 20:50:54 EDT
Subject: brake lines
thanks mitch
1963 bj7
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 18:03:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Harbor Freight
-Roland
Richard Gordon wrote:
::<<Lots of cheap stuff for one time jobs, and the quality
::is good enough to get the job done. Most of the stuff
::is imported out of China, that's why it's so cheap.
::Don't bother to go there for fancy or high end
::tools... they don't have any.>>
::
::I have purchased a few items there and the cheap and quality references
::definately apply! Eg. a bag of rubber hold downs with s clips on each
::end for $15.00 didn't last long enough to consider them used. If you
::want quality go elsewhere.
::
::Richard
:
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 18:23:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Mysterious Tapping Noise on Braking
It's not a pebble, but sounds like tapping with a screwdriver on the bottom
of the chassis or the rear axle. Frequency slows as the car slows--it's
related to the car movement, rather than the engine speed. I doubt it's the
driveshaft, as that's newish as well and anyway the sound comes from under
the passenger side of the car, rather than out of the tunnel.
Thanks for the input.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "Larry Dickstein" <lonejacklarry@kcweb.net>
> Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 19:40:59 -0500
> To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>, "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: Mysterious Tapping Noise on Braking
>
> Odd as it may seem, I traced a similar tap-tap to a small rock stuck in a
> tire. If the tap-tap decreases in frequency as you slow down, I'd bet on
> something odd like that.
>
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
>> My car, all drum brakes, has a light tap-tap-tapping noise which seems to
>> occur under the right side of the car on light, low speed braking, as when
>> finishing rolling up to a stop sign. It is not apparent on heavier
> braking. > Would appreciate input on what this might be.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 18:31:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Leno Sighting at Pasadena Cruise
Those of us who are from California and have classic
cars are blessed with having celebrities like Leno...
who keep doing 'regular guy' things eventhough they
have all the money in the world.
I've seen & talked to Leno at two classic car events
in California now... one was the 1996 Pebble Beach
concourse (his Bugatti won best in show, I think that
year) and I also saw him at a 1994 car rally at the
Fairmont Hotel ... I think he had driven his XK150
drophead up from LA on Hwy 1 just for the event. His
wife was with him both times.
If I still lived in California (I left for Hong Kong
in '96), I probably would have seen him a couple more
times by now. I think he really enjoys the classic
car scene because ... as far as organized groups of
people go... I guess you could say that most of us are
pretty down to earth... Italian Super Car club
excepted!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
> Jay Leno attended the Saturday Cruise at our local
> Fuddrucker's chain burger
> joint last Saturday.
>
> That was interesting, but what was really
> interesting was the car he
> brought.
>
> It's an enormous 2-seater (approx 25 ft long) which
> looks like a land-speed
> car from the 20's or 30's. It has a polished
> aluminum body and an 1800 cu
> in, air-cooled Chrysler V12 Patton Tank engine. It's
> unsupercharged, and he
> says the power is 880-1000 hp.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 21:36:51 EDT
Subject: brake lines
> replaced the lines and still leaking. it is leaking from the bottom of the
> cannister. rubber washer is wasted.nobody seems to carry them. do you know
> where i can find them?
>
> thanks mitch
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 18:36:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Harbor Freight
--- Peter Schauss <schauss@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> I bought an engine crane from them. They shipped it
> without the
> hydraulic jack. When I called to complain, the
> shipped a jack which
> had a flat bottom instead of a fitting to bolt to
> the jack. When
> I called again they said that the jacks were on back
> order.
>
> In all, I believe that it took them more than three
> months to get
> me the proper jack.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> Richard Gordon
> Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 6:59 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Harbor Freight
>
>
> Lots of cheap stuff for one time jobs, and the
> quality
> is good enough to get the job done. Most of the
> stuff
> is imported out of China, that's why it's so cheap.
> Don't bother to go there for fancy or high end
> tools... they don't have any.
>
> I have purchased a few items there and the cheap and
> quality references
> definately apply! Eg. a bag of rubber hold downs
> with s clips on each
> end for $15.00 didn't last long enough to consider
> them used. If you
> want quality go elsewhere.
>
> Richard
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 18:48:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: brake lines
Some aftermarket suppliers provide fittings with the
wrong seat angle on the fitting itself. Rubber
washers won't fix the problem and are dangerous to
use.
Get a proper line from a good quality Healey
specialist supplier like Hemphills or British Car
Specialists. www.healeyhaven.com or
www.britishcarspecialists.com
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- APPRAISE11@aol.com wrote:
> hey everybody,
>
>
>
>
>
> replaced the lines and still leaking. it is leaking
> from the bottom of the
> cannister. rubber washer is wasted.nobody seems to
> carry them. do you know where
> i can find them or what i can use.
>
> thanks mitch
> 1963 bj7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 18:52:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Rear end clunk
Sounds like you need to replace your U-Joint.
If your hub splines are worn, you i don't think you'll
get a clunk...the hub will slip in place when you
apply power.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jim Wood <jwood_kc@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I found in the archive a reference to worn hub
> splines
> as a common cause of a clunk noise in the rear end.
>
> If I raise the rear end and get no wheel movement
> with
> the brakes on, would this be a sufficient test to
> rule
> out worn hubs? Are there other common causes? It is
> most noticable when applying or releasing the
> brakes,
> sometimes clutch.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Jim Wood
> 67 BJ8
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 19:04:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Harbor Freight
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Harbor Freight does sell mainly inexpensive Chinese imports, but they
> also sell Ingersoll Rand air wrenches, S-K wrench sets, and a whole
> lot of other pretty reasonable quality stuff for mostly pretty good
> prices. They are worth a look when you are in the mood to buy
> something.
>
> -Roland
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 20:31:59 -0600
Subject: Re: brake lines
Try this;
Stat-O-Seal
http://www.bakerprecision.com/statseal.htm
http://www.pitstopusa.com/EARWASHERS-SEALS.asp
They are probably available at your local speed shop or hydraulic shop.
Dave Russell
APPRAISE11@aol.com wrote:
> hey everybody,
>
>
> replaced the lines and still leaking. it is leaking from the bottom of the
> cannister. rubber washer is wasted.nobody seems to carry them. do you know
>where
> i can find them or what i can use.
>
> thanks mitch
> 1963 bj7
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 23:18:20 EDT
Subject: Re: LeMans ignition
When I am in a used book store , I always go looking for old , British Car
books.
Sometime ago I found one about LUCAS ignition . The store owner told me he
had had these books 10 years and never sold one , so I purchased his complete
stock .
This book tells just about everything you would need to know about " HOW
IT WORKS ''. For example , the coil - function and troubleshooting ,
distributors , centrifugal and vacuum advance , high performance engines ,
timing light
. electronic ignition , trouble shooting .
The last 41 pages list over 1,000 distributors by part number, model ,
centrifugal advance degrees at three different R.P.M , and at what R.P.M there
is
zero advance .
Copies are available for $ 15.00 + S.H Norman Nock - British Car
Specialists
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 22:15:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear end clunk
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Wood <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 11:33 AM
Subject: Rear end clunk
> I found in the archive a reference to worn hub splines
> as a common cause of a clunk noise in the rear end.
> If I raise the rear end and get no wheel movement with
> the brakes on, would this be a sufficient test to rule
> out worn hubs? Are there other common causes? It is
> most noticable when applying or releasing the brakes,
> sometimes clutch.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Jim Wood
> 67 BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 00:13:34 -0700
Subject: Ign light on resolved
Keith Pennell
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From "Don Factor" <don.factor at spectrummg.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 10:52:14 -0400
Subject: test-no need to open
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 13:05:10 -0500
Subject: lead substitute--Needed in MK1 3000 with stock head?
Do our cars ( 61 MKI 3000) need any kind of a lead Substitute?
If so, is this a usable brand and is $1 a good price??
While we're at it, how about fuel stabilizers---any thoughts on these?
Thanks in advance,
Brian Collins
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 12:57:21 -0600
Subject: Re: lead substitute--Needed in MK1 3000 with stock head?
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 12:05 PM
Subject: lead substitute--Needed in MK1 3000 with stock head?
> I found a stash of "SNAP" brand "Lead Substitute" the other day for $1.00
a
> bottle.
>
> Do our cars ( 61 MKI 3000) need any kind of a lead Substitute?
>
> If so, is this a usable brand and is $1 a good price??
>
> While we're at it, how about fuel stabilizers---any thoughts on these?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Brian Collins
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From "Horn, Granville" <GHorn at ci.kent.wa.us>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 12:12:39 -0700
Subject: RE: Mysterious Tapping Noise on Braking
It's not a pebble, but sounds like tapping with a screwdriver on the bottom
of the chassis or the rear axle. Frequency slows as the car slows--it's
related to the car movement, rather than the engine speed. I doubt it's the
driveshaft, as that's newish as well and anyway the sound comes from under
the passenger side of the car, rather than out of the tunnel.
>>Have you checked to see if you have picked up a piece of wire around the
drive shaft, or one of the wheels?
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 15:50:10 -0700
Subject: Test-Ignore
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 19:22:37 EDT
Subject: Overheating at idle
The car now accelerates noticeably quicker, runs thru redline with no miss or
hesitation and does not overheat at high revs, but does get hot pretty fast
at idle in traffic. I know what I changed--why does this happen?
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 19:55:08 -0400
Subject: RE: Harbor Freight
Peter Schauss
-----Original Message-----
From: Blue One Hundred [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 9:36 PM
To: Peter Schauss; Healey List
Subject: RE: Harbor Freight
Are you saying they "didn't give you jack?"
--- Peter Schauss <schauss@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> I bought an engine crane from them. They shipped it
> without the
> hydraulic jack. When I called to complain, the
> shipped a jack which
> had a flat bottom instead of a fitting to bolt to
> the jack. When
> I called again they said that the jacks were on back
> order.
>
> In all, I believe that it took them more than three
> months to get
> me the proper jack.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> Richard Gordon
> Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 6:59 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Harbor Freight
>
>
> Lots of cheap stuff for one time jobs, and the
> quality
> is good enough to get the job done. Most of the
> stuff
> is imported out of China, that's why it's so cheap.
> Don't bother to go there for fancy or high end
> tools... they don't have any.
>
> I have purchased a few items there and the cheap and
> quality references
> definately apply! Eg. a bag of rubber hold downs
> with s clips on each
> end for $15.00 didn't last long enough to consider
> them used. If you
> want quality go elsewhere.
>
> Richard
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 17:01:18 -0700
Subject: Re: lead substitute--Needed in MK1 3000 with stock head?
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
To: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: lead substitute--Needed in MK1 3000 with stock head?
> I do not recommend any lead additives. Modern fuels have good lubrication
> substitutes. If you have even marginal valve guides, the lead will goop up
> the oil and cause your valves to eventually stick.
> Stabilizers are ok for long term storage needs. Better to drain the fuel
if
> that is to be the case.
> Better yet...drive the car regularly......
> dp
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 18:16:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Overheating at idle
Pretty simple.
If you get a more complete burning of the fuel in the
chamber, your car will heat up faster. That's part of
the reason why modern cars run so much hotter than old
cars like ours.
Also - your car when slightly out of tune was probably
running a hair rich (i.e. fuel was not burning fully),
which keeps the engine running cooler. As you lean
out the mixture... a car will typically run hotter.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> Today I decided to put a minor tune on the car: I
> replaced the plugs
> (RN12YC's) and kept the same gap (.035"), reset the
> rocker arm clearances (.016 &
> .018 on intake and exhaust--a few were a bit loose
> but nothing drastic). When I
> checked the timing I read about 18 degrees at idle
> and 55 at 4000-4500 rpm's
> so I retarded to about 6 degrees at idle and 40-42
> at high revs. Looking at
> the old plugs the carbs seemed fine, so I adjusted
> the idle down a bit but did
> not change the mixtures.
>
> The car now accelerates noticeably quicker, runs
> thru redline with no miss or
> hesitation and does not overheat at high revs, but
> does get hot pretty fast
> at idle in traffic. I know what I changed--why does
> this happen?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 19:21:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Overheating at idle
Interesting question. I'm not sure, "why" at this time. Hotter idle
could be caused by a slower fan if you "adjusted the idle down". If that
is not the cause I can make some guesses that the engine likes 42
degrees advance rather that 55 degrees at high rpm. This is reasonable
considering that it is probably way over advanced with 55 degrees. It is
also possible that it likes 18 degrees better than 6 degrees at idle.
This also may be reasonable.
Does your car have an aftermarket cam rather than the Lemans pattern. I
ask because of the "wide" valve lash settings. If your cam indeed does
have more duration than the Lemans, My above statements would be even
more reasonable. Roller rockers also have the effect of more cam
duration, The more duration the cam has the more low rpm advance the
engine will like. (To make up for the lower cylinder pressures at low
rpm that come from a cam with more duration)
The fix, if you want a fix, is to rework the distributor centrifugal
advance to limit total advance range. This shouldn't be hard to do
with your mallory distributor. Possible settings in engine degrees;
Initial setting or 800 rpm idle = 15 degrees (zero centrifugal advance)
At 1500 rpm = 26 degrees
At 4600 rpm = 40 degrees.
In distributor degrees;
600 rpm = zero
750 rpm = 13 degrees
2300 rpm = 20 degrees
You have several engine mods which may well require non stock timing
for optimum.
Dave Russell
BN2
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> Today I decided to put a minor tune on the car: I replaced the plugs
> (RN12YC's) and kept the same gap (.035"), reset the rocker arm
> clearances (.016 & .018 on intake and exhaust--a few were a bit loose
> but nothing drastic). When I checked the timing I read about 18
> degrees at idle and 55 at 4000-4500 rpm's so I retarded to about 6
> degrees at idle and 40-42 at high revs. Looking at the old plugs the
> carbs seemed fine, so I adjusted the idle down a bit but did not
> change the mixtures.
>
> The car now accelerates noticeably quicker, runs thru redline with no
> miss or hesitation and does not overheat at high revs, but does get
> hot pretty fast at idle in traffic. I know what I changed--why does
> this happen?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 21:23:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Overheating at idle
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 18:43:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Overheating at idle
--- Tlfelts@aol.com wrote:
> My E-Type will definitely run hotter if not properly
>
> tuned----------------------. What am I missing
> here?
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From ECP4UW at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 23:06:13 EDT
Subject: (no subject)
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 21:56:19 -0600
Subject: Re: (no subject)
ECP4UW@aol.com wrote:
> Will be out of town for at least 3 months. Please take my address off the
> list until further notice.
> Thanks,
> Gene
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From Graeme & Margaret Molony <molony at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 18:38:48 +1000
Subject: Aussie from Melbourne attending Conclave
Is there a Healey member in the area who could possibly pick me up from
Dulles Airport and maybe give me a bed for the night.
I have also booked single accommodation at the Meet, but if someone else is
on their own and would like to share to have company and reduce expenses
please let me know.
Happy Healeying
Graeme Molony
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner at earthlink.net>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 06:52:41 -0700
Subject: reservoir leak
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 10:50:13 -0400
Subject: British license numbers.
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From James Laukaitis <jim5 at us.ibm.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 10:52:55 -0400
Subject: PSCC - Pocono Track Event, August 12
Pocono International Raceway - North Course
Tuesday, August 12, 2003
Cost: $145 before June 30th, $175 after June 30th.
*NOTE* We must receive payment by June 30th (not postmarked by 6/30) in
order to take advantage of the special deal of $145.
The event WILL be held rain or shine! Be prepared for the weather.
The track's website is: http://www.poconoraceway.com/
Send Check or Money Order to:
M&M Auto of Rhinebeck
6244 Route 9
Rhinebeck, NY 12572
make check payable to: Poughkeepsie Sports Car Club
Please also include the following information:
Name, address, city, state, zip, phone, and email
Drivers license: state, number, expiration date
Car: make, model, year, whether stock or modified, list of modifications
to engine, body, and chassis
List all track experience.
Again, in order to get the sweet deal of $145 for the whole day you must
mail in your check so it is RECEIVED by June 30th.
Any questions please call:
845-876-6209 days
845-876-3164 eves
ask for Mark
Some questions I have encountered:
<<Do you drive with an
instructor? How many cars
on the track at once? Is passing permitted? How many sessions can be
done in one day? Is
this on the large 2.5mile track?>>
Good questions,
We will have instructors available that will hop in your car, and help
with the lines on the track, etc. There will not be an instructor assigned
to you that drives with you for the entire day.
We hope to have around 20 cars on the track at once. We will have a
minimum of three 20 minute sessions, we are hoping for four. So that is
less than $50/session, less than $40 if we do four. Damn good deal if you
register early.
Passing is permitted in the passing zones only.
We will be running on the North Track, it is 1.5 miles long. It is a lot
like Lime Rock. If you go to this link:
http://www.poconoraceway.com/directions.html
Click on the track map, if you look at the left hand side of the track
(the north side) it is the course that goes around the words "North Family
Infield."
Thanks for the time, hope to see you there.
Jim L
PSCC, MoP
email: jim5@us.ibm.com
#sshnuke 10.2.2.2 -rootpw="Z1ON0101"
#ssh 10.2.2.2 -1 root
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From DLthm at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 11:10:42 EDT
Subject: License Plate
Regards
Dave
1953 BN1 100/4
1961 Landrover
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 18:39:49 +0100
Subject: Re: British license numbers.
Generally no I am afraid. There used to be a time when a friendly
policeman 'might' do an access on the PNC (Police National Computer) but
with the data protection act and, I believe, every access on PNC logged
in detail this is no longer an option.
A formal request to the DVLC (Vehicle Licensing Centre) might be
answered if there had been an accident and the other car did not stop.
However I doubt that you are in this situation.
One also has to consider that if the car has not been on the road for
about 25 years then it would not be recorded on the PNC or DVLA records
at all. Prior to this vehicle registrations were held at a County or
Metropolitian level. If a car was not register on the new system then in
most cases all details were destroyed.
The only thing that I can offer is perhaps were and possible when the
car was first registered.
Other than this you have to try Car Club records.
All the best
>Is it possible to trace a car if you know the license number in England?
>Thanks, JL
>
--
John Harper
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From Graeme & Margaret Molony <molony at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 21:22:05 +1000
Subject: Visiting Aussie
Happy Healeying to all.
Graeme Molony
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From nickz at attbi.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 16:21:48 +0000
Subject: Need Convertible Top Cover For Bj8
My car is a 1966 BJ8 all orginal and if some one on the list has a cover in
good condition I would be interested in purchasing it.
Thanks
NIck
BJ8
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From "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell at talk21.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 08:39:49 +0100
Subject: Flooding carbs
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 16:30:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Flooding carbs
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
Greensboro, NC
BN4 1957
JH-5 1975
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 15:28:19 -0500
Subject: RE: Classic Motorsports--Bravo
I picked up an issue of Classic Motorsports, successor to British Car
magazine. I have pretty much read it from cover to cover, if you missed
earlier discussion of this issue, the new mag expands its content to include
european and (gasp!) japanese cars as well as british.
I had some dialog with Gary Anderson both online and offline about the
content and accuracy of British Car, often when I picked up a copy of
British car I would read the articles and say to myself, can't believe this
or that relevant fact was left out or this or that niggling little factoid
is incorrect.
I am pleased to say that the little editor in my head was pretty much silent
through the reading of Classic Motorsports, and as I believe Gary mentioned
there is as much british car content as the old British Car magazine had,
plus articles on other foreigns, room for all this because there is more
content in the mag.
Anyway it is along the lines of a Classic and Sportscar with a little
Popular Classics thrown in, except the ads are mostly for American
companies and cars and the spelling is American English.
Nice article about a vintage racing Healey 3000 and nice little pic of a
vintage racing Healey 100 in B.S. Levys column, a very good part fo the old
British Car that survives intact.
A nice source for historical and technical info on cars as well as vendors
and parts sources that may be able to help you in restorations.
No financial interest etc. just sharing interest and enthusiasm for a nice
new resource for heleyphiles.
Happy Healeying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 14:46:58 -0600
Subject: Flooding carbs
> Hi all'
> I've just completed 5 year restoration of my BJ7 which included full
rebuild
> kit for the HS6 carbs. Now I'm experiencing random flooding of the float
> chambers. I have adjusted both floats on a number of occasions and each
time
> this cures the problem for maybe 2 or 3 runs and then suddenly one of them
> starts overflowing again. More confusing is that it's not always the same
> carb. I've read the S.U. service book and can't find what i've missed. Any
> suggestions
> Regards
> Pete Lovewell BJ7
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 15:43:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Flooding carbs
You can get them from Moss and they are pretty cheap I believe.
Happy Healeying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 14:42:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: New e mail address
David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 19:07:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BN1 - A90 Atlantic (convertible) questions
I suspect some of the Australians can help me here.
I have purchased essentially the entire drivetrain of
an A90 Atlantic for spares for my early BN1. A few
questions:
1. Is the cylinder head on the A90 the same as a BN1
or different?
2. I assume the block is the same as my early BN1. I
assume generator and starter is the same as well.?
3. I know the gear ratios are different than BN1s...
anyone have a record of what they are and are they any
good? will 1st gear be useful if I use the A90
gearset?
4. Is 3rd gear (in the box, i.e. 2nd on the stick)
prone to breakage on the A90 like on my BN1?
5. I understand most atlantics had 3.66 rear ends, but
I understand that the female axle shaft slot on the
rear end may or may not be the same. I assume I can
just take the ring and pinion off if that's the case
and swap, correct?
6. If I put in a 3.66 rear end and find a 140mph
speedo, do I need to change the speedo angle drive
(i.e. the gear ratio in here) or can I keep it? Or
should I just have a shop make a revolution speed
reducer to put on my speedo cable?
Any other advise and other suggested parts that I
should take from the atlantic are appreciated. I'd
like to leave as much of the car with the guy so he
can resell it to an A90 owner... but any stuff on the
car is mine so...
BTW, I have also taken the rear axle bearing hubs...
I've already gone through two of these so I'll
probably keep at least one spare in the trunk!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 66 BJ8
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 23:10:51 -0400
Subject: Its alive
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 00:16:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Flooding carbs
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 08:45:13 +0100
Subject: Re: BN1 - A90 Atlantic (convertible) questions
>
>I have purchased essentially the entire drivetrain of
>an A90 Atlantic for spares for my early BN1. A few
>questions:
Which model of A90 Atlantic? convertible?
>
>1. Is the cylinder head on the A90 the same as a BN1
>or different?
Basically the same but may have one single valve springs
>
>2. I assume the block is the same as my early BN1. I
>assume generator and starter is the same as well.?
>
The block can be used but is likely to have only a single distributor
fixing bolt.
Starter is OK but if early may have three fixing holes. The third one
can be ignored but is best cut off.
Dynamo may be a slightly earlier type with lower output.
>3. I know the gear ratios are different than BN1s...
>anyone have a record of what they are and are they any
>good? will 1st gear be useful if I use the A90
>gearset?
The gear ratios are the same but there are two versions as discussed in
earlier Emails. Using first gear is and option if you wish to leave it
un-blanked.
>
>4. Is 3rd gear (in the box, i.e. 2nd on the stick)
>prone to breakage on the A90 like on my BN1?
Yes
>
>5. I understand most atlantics had 3.66 rear ends, but
>I understand that the female axle shaft slot on the
>rear end may or may not be the same. I assume I can
>just take the ring and pinion off if that's the case
>and swap, correct?
Only the more rare convertibles. There is no difference otherwise except
that you might have an earlier, heavier, steel case
>
>6. If I put in a 3.66 rear end and find a 140mph
>speedo, do I need to change the speedo angle drive
>(i.e. the gear ratio in here) or can I keep it? Or
>should I just have a shop make a revolution speed
>reducer to put on my speedo cable?
If you keep a standard BN1 overdrive etc. you just need a rare 140 mph
speedo which is matched at 1180 flex revs per mile. Alternatively you
could work out come sort of cable converter with a standard speedo
>
>Any other advise and other suggested parts that I
>should take from the atlantic are appreciated. I'd
>like to leave as much of the car with the guy so he
>can resell it to an A90 owner... but any stuff on the
>car is mine so...
I would take the front suspension. Most parts are the same as BN1 except
the hubs. The brakes may or may not be the same it depends on the model.
Most had 2 1/4" wide brakes that are not suitable.
>
>BTW, I have also taken the rear axle bearing hubs...
>I've already gone through two of these so I'll
>probably keep at least one spare in the trunk!
>
All the best
--
John Harper
Not Australian
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 21:04:31 +1000
Subject: Re: BN1 - A90 Atlantic (convertible) questions
Most of your questions have been answered in the archives.
The major differences between an A90 (depends on year of manufacture) and a
BN1 are
- the BN1 has 2 bolts holding in the distributor clamp - the A90 has one.
- the A90 has 'hydraulic tappets' - like the A70 - the BN1 has single
piece pushrods.
- your gearbox ratio questions have been asked and answered several
times - primarily by John Harper.
Everyhring else - when you discuss it 50 years later - becomes a 'state of
tune' issue - ie you can always regrind a cam; fit larger valves; fit higher
compression pistons. Oh - and I think A90s have a different distributor.
I now have a low mileage, A90 engine - for my early BN1. What was the
original reason for Donald using A90 Atlantic parts ??
?
Because they were there.
Use em.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 12:07 PM
Subject: BN1 - A90 Atlantic (convertible) questions
> Hi -
>
> I suspect some of the Australians can help me here.
>
> I have purchased essentially the entire drivetrain of
> an A90 Atlantic for spares for my early BN1. A few
> questions:
>
> 1. Is the cylinder head on the A90 the same as a BN1
> or different?
>
> 2. I assume the block is the same as my early BN1. I
> assume generator and starter is the same as well.?
>
> 3. I know the gear ratios are different than BN1s...
> anyone have a record of what they are and are they any
> good? will 1st gear be useful if I use the A90
> gearset?
>
> 4. Is 3rd gear (in the box, i.e. 2nd on the stick)
> prone to breakage on the A90 like on my BN1?
>
> 5. I understand most atlantics had 3.66 rear ends, but
> I understand that the female axle shaft slot on the
> rear end may or may not be the same. I assume I can
> just take the ring and pinion off if that's the case
> and swap, correct?
>
> 6. If I put in a 3.66 rear end and find a 140mph
> speedo, do I need to change the speedo angle drive
> (i.e. the gear ratio in here) or can I keep it? Or
> should I just have a shop make a revolution speed
> reducer to put on my speedo cable?
>
> Any other advise and other suggested parts that I
> should take from the atlantic are appreciated. I'd
> like to leave as much of the car with the guy so he
> can resell it to an A90 owner... but any stuff on the
> car is mine so...
>
> BTW, I have also taken the rear axle bearing hubs...
> I've already gone through two of these so I'll
> probably keep at least one spare in the trunk!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 66 BJ8
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From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 07:00:18 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 - A90 Atlantic (convertible) questions
Regards
Ross
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 09:15:17 -0400
Subject: 100 M ignition
The coupling nut and a piece of the tubing on the vacuum unit side survive,
which gives me some clues as to what to do. The tube is steel as the
references indicate, and is fitted with a brass gas-tight compression ring
to create the nipple end. I checked some Web vendors, and it appears that
1/8" carbon steel tubing is widely available (e.g., see vendor list
http://www.tubing-ez.com/tubing/0008142_0018845_1.html), and many offer
custom cutting of short lengths. Presumably they can also supply the
compression rings, possibly even the brass nuts. If I can get a vendor to
set me up, I'll update the posting so everyone can go back to authentic
rusting vacuum lines.
I removed the vacuum unit, have been able get the vaccum advance linkage to
free up with soap and water. Unfortunately, the aluminum nut on the vacuum
side won't untighten. Has anyone taken one of these apart? Can you apply
modest heat to free the nut (I know the back side is pot metal, so I'd
immerse the nut in boiling water as opposed to my usual plumbing instincts
of torching the beast).
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 08:18:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Its alive
Enjoy, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2003 10:10 PM
Subject: Its alive
> Dear List:
> After being in a coma for 25 years and an extensive 2 year
> reconstructive surgical effort, ITS ALIVE
> My Longbridge now has its own 1957 license plate to make her legal for
> the road. With only a minor oil and fuel leak, I have synchronized and
> adjusted the carbs, wow. It has been 35 years since I drove my last
> healey and I must admit I don't remember the car being so small and so
> low to the ground and so HOT at 60 mph.
> I have to say thanks to the list and the N.E. region of the A.H.
> Club who have answered so many of my questions .
> once again thanks......Dennis Broughel..........Bn-4.......45281
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 09:56:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Its alive
See you on the road.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Broughel" <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2003 11:10 PM
Subject: Its alive
> Dear List:
> After being in a coma for 25 years and an extensive 2 year
> reconstructive surgical effort, ITS ALIVE
> My Longbridge now has its own 1957 license plate to make her legal for
> the road. With only a minor oil and fuel leak, I have synchronized and
> adjusted the carbs, wow. It has been 35 years since I drove my last
> healey and I must admit I don't remember the car being so small and so
> low to the ground and so HOT at 60 mph.
> I have to say thanks to the list and the N.E. region of the A.H.
> Club who have answered so many of my questions .
> once again thanks......Dennis Broughel..........Bn-4.......45281
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 10:07:51 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 M ignition
Enjoy your Beautful Beast.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 8:15 AM
Subject: 100 M ignition
> Thanks very much to all of you who responded with information about the
100M
> distributor, particularly 'frogeye' and Scott Morris. With all of this, I
> have verified that the distributor and advance unit match part numbers for
> the early M (dist. 40422B Vac. 420755). The advance numbers (5-17-10) are
> consistent with the ECM curve number 569 spec'd in CNA Ardt's posting
(15-17
> degrees).
>
> The coupling nut and a piece of the tubing on the vacuum unit side
survive,
> which gives me some clues as to what to do. The tube is steel as the
> references indicate, and is fitted with a brass gas-tight compression ring
> to create the nipple end. I checked some Web vendors, and it appears that
> 1/8" carbon steel tubing is widely available (e.g., see vendor list
> http://www.tubing-ez.com/tubing/0008142_0018845_1.html), and many offer
> custom cutting of short lengths. Presumably they can also supply the
> compression rings, possibly even the brass nuts. If I can get a vendor to
> set me up, I'll update the posting so everyone can go back to authentic
> rusting vacuum lines.
>
> I removed the vacuum unit, have been able get the vaccum advance linkage
to
> free up with soap and water. Unfortunately, the aluminum nut on the vacuum
> side won't untighten. Has anyone taken one of these apart? Can you apply
> modest heat to free the nut (I know the back side is pot metal, so I'd
> immerse the nut in boiling water as opposed to my usual plumbing instincts
> of torching the beast).
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 12:36:59 EDT
Subject: Interchanging SU carbs
Thanks very much, in advance.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 12:24:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: What's a "simmonds" nut?
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 16:32:51 -0400
Subject: RE: What's a "simmonds" nut?
http://simmondsmarshall.com/nyloc.html
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of joe mulqueen
Sent: 14-Jun-03 3:24 PM
To: healey list
Subject: What's a "simmonds" nut?
I see "simmonds nut" mentioned in the AH workshop
manual view of the front suspension. The nut attaches
to a spring plate bolt. I see they also included a
lockwasher.. So did they use a lock nut AND a lock
washer?
Thanks for any ideas,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Torrance, CA
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 17:12:10 -0400
Subject: Early BN4 Tach Cable Routing
Does anyone know the routing for the pre-38837 Longbridge BN4s? There appears
to be two same sized holes on either side of the voltage regulator. Every six
cylinder Healey I've ever seen has the tach cable going through the left hand
hole (if standing in front of the car), but there's no way mine will reach if
I use this same path. Should mine go through the right hand hole, or is there
another route that I'm not aware of?
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4, slowly going back together.
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 18:31:28 -0400
Subject: Bench bleeding master cylinders
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 17:49:07 -0500
Subject: Racing Carbs . . . 100-M maybe 100-S
Three interesting points can be noted.
1. the removed ear from the carb body. The lower left ear of the front carb
has been surgically removed. I suspect for faster R&R. Next time I R&R my M
carbs I will experiment with that ear and speculate on removing the M carbs
with air box in place. It is a pain to R&R the carbs as one needs to assemble
the
floats after attaching the air box. Maybe this removed ear relieves this
service problem.
2. the carb choke mechanisms are removed in favor of low speed fuel mixture
screws. I have taken one screw and its cap nut apart to show them to you. It
is a superior adjustment method but eliminates the choke mechanism. No loss on
a racer.
3. the position and style for the fuel pipes on what appears to be the rear
carb looks unusual and positioned at the back of the carb as opposed to the
front of the carb as is correct with the stock M.
The clue might be the position of the fuel pipe on the rear carb. I do not
recall seeing the engine compartment of the S model. Knowing that the
cylinder head is different I would think the carbs are fitted differently.
A fourth interesting point can also be noted. The carb damper assemblies have
both been modified to prevent dampening. I speculate that this would
give really large amounts fo fuel during rapid accelleration. The short one is
purposefully cut with a hacksaw. The long one has had the dampening ring
removed.
Any thoughts on these special carbs? Send a note to my email address if you
want pictures.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 16:11:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN1 - A90 Atlantic (convertible) questions
My BN1 is in California and I only bought the
drivetrain.... The rest of it is still there!
Cheers,
Alan
--- Ross Maylor <obiedog@telusplanet.net> wrote:
> Alan,
> I assume you purchased the A90 Atlantic convertible
> from Ed in Calgary.
> It brings to mind a question. How does one get an
> Atlantic across the
> Pacific to Hong Kong?
>
> Regards
> Ross
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 16:26:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Interchanging SU carbs
> (2) Can HD6s, or HS6s, be fitted to the HS4
> manifolds, simply by grinding out
> the bores to align? If not, where does one get such
> manifolds - anyone still
> have the Rudd molds?
I believe so. don't know about rudd molds.
> (3) Are HD carbs any easier to adjust/balance than
> the HS type? Any
> preference, due to current gasoline composition (I
> know the jet mounting is entirely
> different)
HDs are definitely much easier to work with & tune.
> (4) Any known linkage issues? don't know..
> (5) Any negative thoughts, other than hurting
> originality?
you'll use more gas, and you'll have to play around
with needles until the car works well at all speeds.
> (6) Does the BJ8 cam have more lift than my original
> (I know the valve
> openings are longer)
Yes, but you need a hotter cam if you are going to be
using larger carbs, otherwise there will be no point
to upgrading the carbs to a larger throat size.
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 18:35:42 -0500
Subject: Healey Business question
Thanks,
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 20:10:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Business question
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
>Reply-To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Healey Business question
>Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 18:35:42 -0500
>
>Anyone with experience doing business with Britanniclassics in Woodbury,
>CT.
>please send me there experiences, Pros or Cons. The name doesn't ring a
>bell for me.
>
>Thanks,
>Mark,
>58-MGA
>60-MGA
>76-MGB
>74.5-MGBGT
>60-BT7
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 19:21:34 -0500
Subject: NON HEALEY (Computer Question)
I don't know the administrator password or the user password.
I do not have a restore disk for this computer.
Does anyone know how to get it to boot to windows?
It opens with the HP Logo and the word OMNIBOOK
below that it says "enter F2 for setup"
I can't get it to boot to Windows, but I can enter the set up area but when
I go to security it says adminstrator and user setups are set.
Can I disable them?
Help!!! Please!!!
Don
BN7 (sold) P.S. My book is selling but only 5 guys from the list have
bought one.
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From "Rick" <WebmasterRick at attbi.com>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 19:32:03 -0500
Subject: Re: What's a "simmonds" nut?
"<<I see they also included a
lockwasher.. So did they use a lock nut AND a lock
washer?>>
NOT if any SAE practices were followed, Joe!!!"
Rick
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From Fiat500f at aol.com
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 20:48:10 EDT
Subject: AH100-4 oil filter help needed.....
Thanks much,
Paul B.
'53 BN1
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 21:36:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Business question
Bob Denton
Reid Trummel wrote:
>That's Brad DelSorbo's business name. Haven't seen Brad in years, but he
>was always very honest; a real marque enthusiast himself. He specializes
>(or at least he used to) in NOS stuff. It may not come cheap, but he was
>good at finding the stuff.
>
>Reid Trummel
>Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
>http://www.healey.org
>
>
>
>
>>From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
>>Reply-To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
>>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>Subject: Healey Business question
>>Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 18:35:42 -0500
>>
>>Anyone with experience doing business with Britanniclassics in Woodbury,
>>CT.
>>please send me there experiences, Pros or Cons. The name doesn't ring a
>>bell for me.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Mark,
>>58-MGA
>>60-MGA
>>76-MGB
>>74.5-MGBGT
>>60-BT7
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From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 19:30:08 -0700
Subject: Front Shock Torque Settings
Neil McDonald
BN6
Vancouver
Canada
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 23:11:41 -0400
Subject: Healey sightings
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 22:12:37 -0500
Subject: Re: What's a "simmonds" nut?
> Ed says:
>
> "<<I see they also included a
> lockwasher.. So did they use a lock nut AND a lock
> washer?>>
>
> NOT if any SAE practices were followed, Joe!!!"
>
> Rick
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 00:59:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Front Shock Torque Settings
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H SOLD over 1500 copies
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
Extra..
"Shipping charges will apply if out side of the continental United States"
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 06:43:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Shock Torque Settings
Enjoy, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Neil McDonald <nimcdonald@shaw.ca>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 9:30 PM
Subject: Front Shock Torque Settings
> Tomorrow I plan to reinstall refurbished front shocks in my BN6. I know
that the mounting bolts are prone to loosening so I will use Locktite. Any
suggestions on a torque setting for the mounting bolts?
>
> Neil McDonald
> BN6
> Vancouver
> Canada
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 20:44:22 +0800
Subject: just a point of trivia for 6 cyl cars
Is there a definitive date where the valve lash adjustment nuts, on 6 cylinder
cars, changes from BSW thread to UNF?
In the boxes of bits and pieces that was the starting point for the
restoration of my very early 3000 there were two rocker shafts complete. One
appeared OK and I installed it on my rebuilt engine but... it wasn't (just
spurted too much oil out from the rockers arms) so I had the other rebuilt. On
installation I noticed that the valve lash adjustment nuts were whitworth
threads. Had to buy a special ring spanner to hold the nuts securely during
adjustment.
It all doesn't really matter but the course thread on the adjustment screws
makes the valve lash adjustment a little more time consuming to get it just
right.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
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From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 09:08:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey sightings
George Marinos
Sprites MKII & MKIII
> BlankJust watched a Beach Boys history on ABC and saw shots of the actor
> playing Dennis Wilson drive a BRG BN1 or 2. Sounded great - the Beach Boys
> also.
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 10:32:46 -0400
Subject: Healeys for sale
Items 2419576889 and 2419578497.
Comments??? Historical background???
C
B
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 08:38:33 -0700
Subject: Brake Lines
The Usual Suspects don't seem to carry them ...
TIA,
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 11:39:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Healeys for sale
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2003 10:32 AM
Subject: Healeys for sale
| Anyone out there bidding on the two 'Austin Healeys (Healy)' on e-Bay?
|
| Items 2419576889 and 2419578497.
|
| Comments??? Historical background???
|
|
C
| B
|
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 12:27:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Healeys for sale
<< Anyone out there bidding on the two 'Austin Healeys (Healy)' on e-Bay?
Items 2419576889 and 2419578497.
Comments??? Historical background???
C
B >>
A couple of very rough austins. I'd like to get one of those convertibles...
WIsh I were closer. Those are sevens, no?
Rick
San Diego
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From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 10:36:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Healeys for sale
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 12:51:25 EDT
Subject: brake lines
thanks guys for all your help. we are up and running again. :)
mitch
1963 bj7
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From "Paul Jennings" <paul at jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 21:05:52 +0100
Subject: Strawberries & Cream (& Clutch)
The weather this weekend has been terrific here and clocking some miles has
been a great experience. Even had one guy salute as we cruised by .... nice
touch! Sun cream needed on my gums all weekend because the grin was so wide.
Problem: I noticed earlier today that engaging reverse was a little
troublesome and I could see some fluid on the road when I parked.
Eventually 1st gear became difficult as we drove along, until it was 'crash
box' time - made it home by judging the rev's during gear changes. Hydraulic
fluid resevoir level has fallen, particularly in the clutch section. So I
guess some investigation is needed to see where the fluid is escaping. Looks
like the leak is in the area of the slave cylinder.
We moved house earlier this year and my BJ7 has mostly been in storage since
and our new garage hasn't been built yet so I don't have my own workshop
facilities. I guess I'll take the car to the local garage, but before I do -
any comments from you experienced boys & girls?
Thanks in anticipation
Paul Jennings
'63 BJ7
Colorado Red over Cream
Goes by the name Denise
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 18:28:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Strawberries & Cream (& Clutch)
Pumping the clutch should make gear changes easier
until you fix it... try pumping it a few times before
each shift... it sounds like you have a small leak and
possibly some air in the slave cylinder.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Paul Jennings <paul@jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk>
wrote:
> Hi Everyone
> Not long to Wimbledon now across in Little Olde
> England. Time to serve up some
> Strawberries & Cream and summer Healey miles.
>
> The weather this weekend has been terrific here and
> clocking some miles has
> been a great experience. Even had one guy salute as
> we cruised by .... nice
> touch! Sun cream needed on my gums all weekend
> because the grin was so wide.
>
> Problem: I noticed earlier today that engaging
> reverse was a little
> troublesome and I could see some fluid on the road
> when I parked.
>
> Eventually 1st gear became difficult as we drove
> along, until it was 'crash
> box' time - made it home by judging the rev's during
> gear changes. Hydraulic
> fluid resevoir level has fallen, particularly in the
> clutch section. So I
> guess some investigation is needed to see where the
> fluid is escaping. Looks
> like the leak is in the area of the slave cylinder.
>
> We moved house earlier this year and my BJ7 has
> mostly been in storage since
> and our new garage hasn't been built yet so I don't
> have my own workshop
> facilities. I guess I'll take the car to the local
> garage, but before I do -
> any comments from you experienced boys & girls?
>
> Thanks in anticipation
>
> Paul Jennings
> '63 BJ7
> Colorado Red over Cream
> Goes by the name Denise
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 18:50:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healeys for sale
If I am not mistaken, the convertible is a American
Austin Roadster (Swallow?) microcar. These were
popular with 1930s movie stars and I think you were
lucky to get the car up to 45 miles an hour (it had a
700 cc motor in it)... although in 1930 there were no
freeways to speek of so that was probably as fast as
anyone needed to go...
I don't think the car is a 1930 model, it looks later
than that... possibly a 1934 (the fenders are larger
and more rounded than other austin convertibles I've
seen from that time).
I'm sure someone in the UK would pay a mint for this
car.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Charley Braum <cbaustin@sgi.net> wrote:
> Anyone out there bidding on the two 'Austin
> Healeys (Healy)' on e-Bay?
>
> Items 2419576889 and 2419578497.
>
> Comments??? Historical background???
>
>
> C
> B
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 19:01:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: One more thing on the 1930 Austin microcar
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Andy Phillips" <andyp at njhealey.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 22:17:03 -0400
Subject: Clutch wear
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 19:47:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Clutch wear
If your clutch system is working properly, it should
bite about an inch from the top. If your clutch is
disengaing near the floor, it will be harder to shift
and will wear out your gear box and clutch. This
symptom is indicative of a worn clutch master or slave
cylinder... These are relatively low cost to fix
(definintely cheaper than replacing a clutch or
gearbox) so you should either rebuild or replace both
the clutch master and slave cyinder ASAP.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Andy Phillips <andyp@njhealey.com> wrote:
> When pressing the clutch peddle, does the clutch
> bite nearer the floor
> when it wears or nearer the top of the peddle?
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
> BJ8
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 21:50:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Clutch wear
I think that as the clutch disc wears, the release point will be at a
higher point on the pedal, nearer the top. If it wears enough the slave
cylinder or the pedal itself will be against it's fully retracted stop
without the clutch being fully engaged & the clutch will slip.
Dave Russell
Andy Phillips wrote:
> When pressing the clutch peddle, does the clutch bite nearer the floor
> when it wears or nearer the top of the peddle?
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
> BJ8
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From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 22:35:33 -0700
Subject: Fitting the Disc Brake Cover Assembly Seal
1. Does the long leg of the J go on the inside or the outside of the cover?
Does it matter?
2. I assume that I have to cut into the long leg of the seal so that it will
sit flat on the inside of the sharp bend
3. Should I glue it in place with something?
Neil McDonald
BN6 (with BN7 disc brakes)
Vancouver
Canada
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From "Andy Phillips" <andyp at njhealey.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 06:11:31 -0400
Subject: RE: Clutch wear
That's exactly what my clutch does, it bites about an inch from the top
and I was thinking that was quite high. Gear changes are fine and there
is no slip. So I guess it is all good news.
Thanks,
Andy
'67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2003 10:47 PM
To: Andy Phillips; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Clutch wear
Andy -
If your clutch system is working properly, it should
bite about an inch from the top. If your clutch is
disengaing near the floor, it will be harder to shift
and will wear out your gear box and clutch. This
symptom is indicative of a worn clutch master or slave
cylinder... These are relatively low cost to fix
(definintely cheaper than replacing a clutch or
gearbox) so you should either rebuild or replace both
the clutch master and slave cyinder ASAP.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 04:02:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Clutch wear
Yeah, that sounds about right maybe two inches is how
it is when new. If you go easy on the clutch (i.e.
drop the clutch w/ little slip and let the torque
carry the car), you can probably get the clutch to
last quite a long time.
My clutch is on its last legs... It's has about 50,000
miles on it... i'd give it another 2,000 miles before
it'll have to be replaced. I made the mistake of
burning the clutch at a club event two years ago...
probably took 10,000 miles or regular use off it.
When it comes out I'll probably get an aluminum
flywheel!
Cheers,
Alan
--- Andy Phillips <andyp@njhealey.com> wrote:
> Alan,
>
> That's exactly what my clutch does, it bites about
> an inch from the top
> and I was thinking that was quite high. Gear changes
> are fine and there
> is no slip. So I guess it is all good news.
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
> '67 BJ8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
> Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2003 10:47 PM
> To: Andy Phillips; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Clutch wear
>
> Andy -
>
> If your clutch system is working properly, it should
> bite about an inch from the top. If your clutch is
> disengaing near the floor, it will be harder to
> shift
> and will wear out your gear box and clutch. This
> symptom is indicative of a worn clutch master or
> slave
> cylinder... These are relatively low cost to fix
> (definintely cheaper than replacing a clutch or
> gearbox) so you should either rebuild or replace
> both
> the clutch master and slave cyinder ASAP.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 08:13:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Healeys for sale
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 08:19:54 EDT
Subject: The Downside of Buying that Dreamcar- No LBC
http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/e21/forum.php?postid=3378984&page=1
Happy Healeying,
Rick
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 05:39:27 -0700
Subject: RE: Clutch wear
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Andy,
>
> I think that as the clutch disc wears, the release point will be at a
> higher point on the pedal, nearer the top. If it wears enough the slave
> cylinder or the pedal itself will be against it's fully retracted stop
> without the clutch being fully engaged & the clutch will slip.
>
> Dave Russell
>
> Andy Phillips wrote:
> > When pressing the clutch peddle, does the clutch bite nearer the floor
> > when it wears or nearer the top of the peddle?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Andy
> > BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 08:54:46 -0400
Subject: RE: Healeys for sale
The man who started the Austin Motor Company was Herbert Austin who
became Lord Austin of Longbridge in 1936.
He received a munitions knighthood in the 1st WW but I don't know if he
ever used the title Sir Herbert.
Cheers,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: 16-Jun-03 8:14 AM
To: Blue One Hundred; Charley Braum; Healey-List
Subject: Re: Healeys for sale
I love these little cars and have been looking for a good example for
some
time but I have found that there are not many on this side of the
Atlantic.
Here is one that I tried to buy in the UK last month but I was too late.
http://midcoast.com/~clocks/austin7.JPG
Sir Henry Austin came to this country in 1929 and by 1930 was
manufacturing
the American Austin at the Standard Steel Car Co. factory in Butler PA.
The
company went under but was reorganized in 1935 as the American Bantam
and
closed in 1941. As far as the price goes, I think this guy is either
dreaming or has no idea of the market. It will be interesting to see if
he
gets any bids. The car I missed sold for 3500 BP in mint condition in
England where there is much more interest than here. Cheers,JL
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From Jon Asdourian <kriegerii at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 06:01:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: lift
Jon
=====
Jon Asdourian
61 356B Red Porsche Coupe
69 Red MGC GT, 71 Red MGB
63 Burgundy Austin Healey 3000 BJ7
59 Red Bug Eye
58 Black MGA - I SEE A TREND HERE, NOT SURE WHY!!!!!
356 Registry 16017, PCA 2002112915, MGCC 99577 AHCC
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 14:07:27 +0100
Subject: Its alive
Great to hear that your car is once again "on song".
Re the heat, the early BN4s had no air deflector plates in front of the
radiator and this can make them run hotter than the later cars. I have a six
bladed fan on mine which has improved matters but if you aren't worried about
originality, then the deflector panels could be fitted.
Another tip that is very effective is to use the modern foil and composite heat
insulating sheets around the tunnel area under the carpets. This can also help
to block up any gaps between chassis/bulkhead and the removable tunnel cover.
Finally, I have used exhaust header wrap on the front downpipes between the
headers and exhaust box. (I didn't do the headers because the job was too
daunting with the engine in the car!) This has considerably reduced heat on the
passenger side - which would be the driver's side for a LHD car - as well as
reducing under bonnet temperatures.
Or were you referring to the car's eager acceleration at 60mph when you called
it "HOT"?!!!
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
PS Your chassis no is only some 200 away from mine, which was built at the end
of July 1957
------------------------------
>Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 23:10:51 -0400
>From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
>Subject: Its alive
>Dear List:
> After being in a coma for 25 years and an extensive 2 year
>reconstructive surgical effort, ITS ALIVE
> My Longbridge now has its own 1957 license plate to make her legal for
>the road. With only a minor oil and fuel leak, I have synchronized and
>adjusted the carbs, wow. It has been 35 years since I drove my last
>healey and I must admit I don't remember the car being so small and so
>low to the ground and so HOT at 60 mph.
> I have to say thanks to the list and the N.E. region of the A.H.
>Club who have answered so many of my questions .
>once again thanks......Dennis Broughel..........Bn-4.......45281
>
----------------------------
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From brouillette at attbi.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 13:34:51 +0000
Subject: Automated Healey
I'm looking for an automated Healey that I can use in a software
product demo my company is putting topgether and we have a tag line of "as
easy to use as driving a car" and I was thinking if I could find one, maybe I
could incorporate it in the demo. Anyone know of one? It could be big or
little Healey...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
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From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 07:17:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Automated Healey
Rick
At 01:34 PM 6/16/03 +0000, brouillette@attbi.com wrote:
>Folks,
>
> I'm looking for an automated Healey that I can use in a software
>product demo my company is putting topgether and we have a tag line of "as
>easy to use as driving a car" and I was thinking if I could find one, maybe I
>could incorporate it in the demo. Anyone know of one? It could be big or
>little Healey...
>
>Mike Brouillette
>59 BT7
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 08:04:39 -0700
Subject: clutch wear
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 09:57:43 -0600
Subject: Door glass
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From Bellino <tickettoride99_2000 at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 09:09:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Period UK license plate- AH 3000, British Car Day Healey parts
Would appreciate any comments, insight. I will bring the plate to Conclave
2003, Tysons Corner, VA.
Attend British Car Day in Gaitherburg, MD this past sunday as a vendor. I
purchased a period gear shift knob, was put in a box when the owner
replaced the shifter knob the one with the "Austin Healey" knob. I was
surprised that the knob was so HEAVY. I did like the idea that it showed
the shift pattern.
I was also able to purchase a glove box lock assembly at the show. This was
very late in the day, after a number of my fellow car club members where
thru the show and vendor's area. He told me he would not sell the glove box
lock assembly by itself. He wanted to sell me the entire dash panel (three
pieces from a 1965) no gauges, but had the bottom chrome. When he said
$50.00, I was almost floored by the "cheap" price.
Best regards, Pete Groh, Ellicott City, MD USA "The Key Guy"
Congratulations! Your photos 'Jaguar dealership sign.' have been approved
and are now available to everyone. You can view them at the following URL
(pass it on to let others see your pictures):
http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1055081985
__________________________________
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 12:14:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Period UK license plate- AH 3000, British Car Day Healey
<< He had a Austin Healey, and other British cars when he was
overseas. When I ask him about this plate, with the letter's/number's AH
3000 he assured me it was registared on his own car. I have a picture
posted of the Jaguar site of the plate. >>
In the UK a plate that good would sell for thousands of pounds. It's odd,
they have a whole catagory in the classified ads selling cool license numbers.
Rick
San Diego.
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 11:10:57 -0700
Subject: new 100 seat foam for sale
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 11:39:47 -0700
Subject: Re: new 100 seat foam for sale
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "'Emil Antoine'" <eantoine@calpine.com>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 11:10 AM
Subject: new 100 seat foam for sale
> Now that steel seat pan foam is available, ...
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From "Andrew Shrimpton" <andrew at hickeycontractors.co.nz>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 07:55:24 +1200
Subject: Healey Wings Logo
Thanks
Andrew Shrimpton
NZ
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 21:35:05 +0100
Subject: Re: Period UK license plate- AH 3000, British Car Day Healey
If you want to check on the "reality" of a licence number you can always
contact UK DVLA (Driver and Vehicle Licencing Agency) at http://
www.DVLA.gov.uk/
they can normally tell you whether a number is legal, whether it has
been allocated etc etc. They also have their own "Cherished Numbers"
operation. Over here numbers are much more strictly allocated than in
the US and the plate belongs with the car and stays that way throughout
its life unless transferred through DVLA. Anything else is illegal. That
way it is possible for the police to determine who the car's owner is at
any stage in its existence.
Peter Dzwig
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 6/16/03 9:11:19, tickettoride99_2000@yahoo.com writes:
>
><< He had a Austin Healey, and other British cars when he was
>overseas. When I ask him about this plate, with the letter's/number's AH
>3000 he assured me it was registared on his own car. I have a picture
>posted of the Jaguar site of the plate. >>
>
>In the UK a plate that good would sell for thousands of pounds. It's odd,
>they have a whole catagory in the classified ads selling cool license numbers.
>
>Rick
>San Diego.
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 16:55:07 -0400
Subject: help..Tricarb Parts Needed
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 15:12:21 -0600
Subject: Re: clutch wear
Maybe not the clutch. loose floppy engine & transmission mounts have
been known to cause the problem. Especially the steady rod (engine tie
rod) which runs lengthwise on the back of the transmission.
Dave Russell
BN2
James Shope wrote:
> in references to clutches, maybe one of you bright, knowledgeable folks can
> help me. not all the time, but enough to bother, i get a chatter when i
> release the clutch. during rebuild i had flywheel ground, clutch disc
> rebuilt, and put in new pressure plate. rebuilt clutch master and slave
> cylinder, but did not replace. i suspected the disc when it first occurered,
> and pulled transmission and rechecked everything. no visible imperfections.
> i am thinking of putting a new disc in, but will try any good ideas available.
> thanks for help. healeymanjim 66 bj8
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 18:11:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Door glass
On Mon, 16 Jun 2003 09:57:43 -0600, you wrote:
::I am installing reconditioned door glass in my 65 BJ8. I have new glides in
::the window framing. Should the tracks that the glides run in be lubricated
::and if so with what?
::Sid.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 18:23:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Door glass
The tracks should require no lubrication if the
channels are clean and don't have any dents.
If the window does not track easily up and down the
channel... check for missalignment or ... check for
the channel being "pinched" inside the door...
particularly the rear channel which you can only see
with the door panel off.
If either of the channels are pinched a little, widen
them out (particularly the rear channel) and it will
make the window much easier to roll up and down.
I think sometime in the past several BJ8s and 7s that
were T-boned never had the window channel properly
repaired eventhough the doors were fixed or replaced.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Sid Bronson <bron@rmci.net> wrote:
> I am installing reconditioned door glass in my 65
> BJ8. I have new glides in
> the window framing. Should the tracks that the
> glides run in be lubricated
> and if so with what?
> Sid.
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 23:00:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Door glass
Does anyone know if the roll-up window cars came from the factory with the
windows fitting loosely in the tracks like mine do, or was there something in
the channels to make them fit more snugly, more like a modern window? Even
after I installed new plastic glides and with undamaged channels, my windows
still feel pretty sloppy in the tracks.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Sid Bronson
To: healey forum
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 11:57 AM
Subject: Door glass
I am installing reconditioned door glass in my 65 BJ8. I have new glides
in
the window framing. Should the tracks that the glides run in be lubricated
and if so with what?
Sid.
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 23:09:47 -0400
Subject: RE: Clutch wear
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2003 11:51 PM
To: Andy Phillips
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Clutch wear
Andy,
I think that as the clutch disc wears, the release point will be at a
higher point on the pedal, nearer the top. If it wears enough the slave
cylinder or the pedal itself will be against it's fully retracted stop
without the clutch being fully engaged & the clutch will slip.
Dave Russell
Andy Phillips wrote:
> When pressing the clutch peddle, does the clutch bite nearer the floor
> when it wears or nearer the top of the peddle?
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
> BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 00:08:51 -0700
Subject: Re: The Downside of Buying that Dreamcar- No LBC
Got to reading it. Read for 10 minutes or so and thought - How long is
this?
After scrolling down it appears to be pages and pages! Where is the
shortened version? :)
Keith Pennell
> Here's a story to keep in mind next time you're thinking of buying that
car
> you've wanted all your life:
>
> http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/e21/forum.php?postid=3378984&page=1
>
> Happy Healeying,
> Rick
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 00:29:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Fitting the Disc Brake Cover Assembly Seal
The entire seal goes on the inside of the cover. Long leg goes toward the
seats.
> 2. I assume that I have to cut into the long leg of the seal so that it
will sit flat on the inside of the sharp bend
Not really unless you have a particularly thick seal.
> 3. Should I glue it in place with something?
I would. Glue it in place in the cover. You will find positioning the seal
and the cover and also getting the screws in with only 2 elbows, 2 wrists,
and 10 fingers to be a real challenge otherwise.
>
> Neil McDonald
> BN6 (with BN7 disc brakes)
> Vancouver
> Canada
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 21:45:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Door glass
Your windows "wobble" because your channels are not
spaced correctly (they are probably too wide in
spots). It is a good idea to take the channels out
and make sure the spacing is evenly spaced along their
entire length. Using an adjustable crescent wrench
(adusted almost closed) with a towel in the slot to
protect the chrome finish works well for minor
adjustments here.
I did this with my BJ8 and now the windows roll up and
down easily with no wobble, and without any
lubrication - this is good for long term life of the
wind up mechanism as well....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:
> I believe the plastic glides were intended provide
> all the lubrication needed
> for the roll-up windows, although I have to admit
> that I once lubricated the
> front channel with aircraft grease. After a while,
> the grease will get
> pretty dirty, though and it's hard to relubricate
> with the door trim panel and
> window in place. A better long-term lubricant might
> be paraffin wax, if a
> lubricant is going to be used.
>
> Does anyone know if the roll-up window cars came
> from the factory with the
> windows fitting loosely in the tracks like mine do,
> or was there something in
> the channels to make them fit more snugly, more like
> a modern window? Even
> after I installed new plastic glides and with
> undamaged channels, my windows
> still feel pretty sloppy in the tracks.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Sid Bronson
> To: healey forum
> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 11:57 AM
> Subject: Door glass
>
>
> I am installing reconditioned door glass in my 65
> BJ8. I have new glides
> in
> the window framing. Should the tracks that the
> glides run in be lubricated
> and if so with what?
> Sid.
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 01:12:13 EDT
Subject: Re: clutch wear
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 05:30:50 EDT
Subject: Re: The Downside of Buying that Dreamcar- No LBC
<<After scrolling down it appears to be pages and pages! Where is the
shortened version? :)>>
Caveat Emptor!
Rick
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 08:01:12 -0400
Subject: Re: The Downside of Buying that Dreamcar- No LBC
Exactly! <chuckle>. My heart went out to the fellow, but the fatal error
seemed to have been embarking on a cross-country trip without having first
checked out CarFax. That, and the heat of passion, which I can certainly
understand.
--
John Miller
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 09:55:39 -0400
Subject: RE: Door glass
I remember when I had my BJ8, brand new in 1967. From that time forward I
*always* wound the window glass down only until the rubber door-mounted
weather sealing gasket. That way it would never rattle. (Not good if you
like to hang your arm out the window though).
My late friend Jim Egan's '67 BJ8 was treated the same way in order to keep
the glass from rattling.
FYI.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 11:01 PM
To: healey forum
Subject: Re: Door glass
I believe the plastic glides were intended provide all the lubrication
needed
for the roll-up windows, although I have to admit that I once lubricated the
front channel with aircraft grease. After a while, the grease will get
pretty dirty, though and it's hard to relubricate with the door trim panel
and
window in place. A better long-term lubricant might be paraffin wax, if a
lubricant is going to be used.
Does anyone know if the roll-up window cars came from the factory with the
windows fitting loosely in the tracks like mine do, or was there something
in
the channels to make them fit more snugly, more like a modern window? Even
after I installed new plastic glides and with undamaged channels, my windows
still feel pretty sloppy in the tracks.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 10:10:06 -0400
Subject: Healey sighting Maine
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 11:20:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Healeys for sale
American Austins, though rare and even more impractical than our A-Hs, can
bring very good money.
Ed Adams
-----Original Message-----
From: James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com>
>I love these little cars and have been looking for a good example for some
>time but I have found that there are not many on this side of the Atlantic.
>Here is one that I tried to buy in the UK last month but I was too late.
>http://midcoast.com/~clocks/austin7.JPG
>Sir Henry Austin came to this country in 1929 and by 1930 was manufacturing
>the American Austin at the Standard Steel Car Co. factory in Butler PA. The
>company went under but was reorganized in 1935 as the American Bantam and
>closed in 1941. As far as the price goes, I think this guy is either
>dreaming or has no idea of the market. It will be interesting to see if he
>gets any bids. The car I missed sold for 3500 BP in mint condition in
>England where there is much more interest than here. Cheers,JL
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 09:45:16 -0700
Subject: BJ8 aluminum sump install
I'm going to replace the original sump with aluminum. Would love any
suggestions, especially regarding any potential problems, torque settings,
gasket sealer brand, tricks or any one else's experience that might help me.
Thanks so much,
Ron
Ronald Davies, DDS
Anesthesiology for Dentistry
www.DentalAnesthesia.com
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From "Mell Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 18:46:53 +0100
Subject: Healey Models etc.
We have the following items to swap/sell if any anyone is interested.
Corgi Austin Healey 3000 Mk111 (G50081)
Silver Grey Model in Black Box 1:43
Vanguard Austin Healey 3000Mk11 (VA05101)
BRG & OEW 1.43
Wiking Austin Healey 3000 (8160523)
Red & OEW 1:87
Heritage Tapestry Kit for Frogeye Sprite
Gunze Sangyo Austin Healey Sprite Mk1
Yellow on Box Plastic Kit 1:24
Austin Healey Year Book 1978
by Paul Skilleter
Corgi MGA Blue 1:42
Posters by Mike Harbor, 100, 100-6 3000 & Frogeye
We leave for USA 18th June
Please reply direct.
Mike
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 15:22:11 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 aluminum sump install
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 08:20:08 -0700
Subject: Battery cover material
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 17:04:06 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 aluminum sump install
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Wall
To: rdavies1@cox.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 aluminum sump install
just make sure you never hit anything, cast aluminum doesn't bend. been
there, done that on aluminum sump on ford tbird. think ford got close to 5
bills for a replacement. a friend of mine heliarced it for around $60
including the oil/filter change.
Ron Davies wrote:
>
> Hi gang,
> Question:
>
> I'm going to replace the original sump with aluminum. Would love any
> suggestions, especially regarding any potential problems, torque
settings,
> gasket sealer brand, tricks or any one else's experience that might help
me.
> Thanks so much,
> Ron
> Ronald Davies, DDS
> Anesthesiology for Dentistry
> www.DentalAnesthesia.com
>
> /
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From GMGoodman at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 18:27:38 EDT
Subject: logos on ebay
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From "Healey, Graham" <Graham.Healey at lse.com.au>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 08:43:00 +1000
Subject: RE: BJ8 aluminum sump install
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 16:02:19 -0700
Subject: Re: help..Tricarb Parts Needed
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 1:55 PM
Subject: help..Tricarb Parts Needed
> Hello Listers:
> I hope someone out there can help....
> I am restoring one of the late BN7 tricarbs and want to do it right.
> There are approx. 1/4" thick spacers fitted between each HS4 carburetter
and
> the heat shield. One of the three is badly broken. They appear to be a
hard
> fibre material, same as the spacers used on the HD6 series of carbs.
> Can anybody spare one of these spacers, either outright sale or what do
you
> need?
> Thanks.
> Rich Chrysler
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 18:20:31 -0400
Subject: Ignition 100M
The diaphram seemed in pretty good shape, but debris on both ends had made the
pushrod stuck in place. I put a little vaseline on the rubber after cleaning
the chamber, and reassembled with "Brush-on Blue BLOCK" from the local
plumbing supply. For those who've had miseries getting their hot water
furnaces to stop leaking, this is the shellac medium of preference among
plumbers and steam fitters. It is used on gas furnaces to seal the gas lines,
and is amazing stuff (as you will quickly discover when you try to wash it
off; trick: acetone -- everything else fails).
The good news is that the vaccum line is 1/8" outside diameter, the same as
American conventional gas fittings. The two male threadings on the carb and
advance unit are each 1/4" standard compression thread fittings. You can buy
the nut and the little brash ferrule for $1.50 apiece. The line can be either
widely available 1/8" copper tubing or 1/8" carbon steel line, which is also
made, but seldom sold except in large amounts. I am working on finding a
vendor who will cut to length and sell small orders with the nut and ferrule
for a ready to install pipe.
The advance unit now truly "sucks". Thanks to all who helped me out. For those
of you who want to reinstall the vintage looking iron piping, please email and
I will write back once I work out the specifics with a seller.
Allen
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From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 08:42:44 -0600
Subject: Getting there - BJ8 Progress
Yesterday my BJ8 arrived back at my house after recieving new paint!
Colorado red with black coves. She is just a rolling chassis with the
panels fitted but still looks stunning! My efforts at masking her paid off
as there was very little dust on the chassis and components and NO
overspray!..... Although not origianl mind you, there is not even overspray
on the replated hardware holding on the fenders and doors!
The body shop was reluctant to let her go as they have become fond of her
being there and the interest generated.
A suspect about 2 to 3 months of puttering is now needed to install all the
final componenets (which are all rebuilt except for the trunk hinges which I
have to send out to be rechromed). There is too much summer to cram into 3
months in Idaho to stay in my shop in the summer weekends... (on tap:
climbing the Grand Teton, rock climbing the teton canyons and City of Rocks,
Yellowstone, kayaking, Mtn Biking, blue ribbon trout streams, camping..
don't you love it!...)
Cheers.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - Getting there!
93 Land Rover D110
03 Mini Cooper S 2FUNN
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 18:40:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Battery cover material
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From Jose Vicente Vargas <josevicente at musme.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 16:43:41 -0700
Subject: BN7 wanted
Jose Vicente Vargas
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 17:04:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Aluminum Sump
The sumps are heavily-made, with a crude appearance, as befits a
low-production race part. Mine fit perfectly. I used Hylomar on both sides
of the gasket which seems to work fine.
I'm convinced Healeys respond to and have a certain family affinity for
Hylomar because of its British origins.
I made a quickie tap out of a 1/4-28 bolt (file/hacksaw a couple of grooves
in the threads) and used it to chase out the threads of all the holes in the
bottom engine flange. Installation was a breeze. If you're a wimp like me
you need a jack under the sump to hold it in place while you bolt it up.
I hit a dip at about 15 mph in my Alfa Milano and knocked a bunch of the
fins off without breaking the sump, so they don't always break. In 25 years
of driving Alfas, that's the only incident I had.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 21:09:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Aluminum Sump
> I hit a dip at about 15 mph in my Alfa Milano and knocked a bunch of the
> fins off without breaking the sump, so they don't always break.
This is my story and I'm sticking to it.
For those who may doubt the strength of an aluminum sump, about four years
ago I ran over a raised manhole on a street that was being resurfaced. My first
thought after the contact was that it had hit the lower suspension a-frame,
but upon examining it there was no apparent damage and no oil leaks. You can be
assured that I kept a close watch on the oil pressure gage for the 25 mile
trip home. The following day I put my BJ8 on drive on ramps and checked the
sump.
There was only as small gouge out of one of the sump fins.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
'67 BJ8 "Blackie"
'60 BT7 "Heather"
'61 BT7 "Hillery"
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 21:27:44 -0400
Subject: Garage sale
Because of my debts, travelling, general living expenses and
"self-employment salary", I find it difficult to carry on in the manner to
which I've become accustomed.
Though I don't want to, I will have to sell some of my "toys".
Hence why I have decided to have a garage sale to dispose of several
items. Garage sale will be this Saturday .
I have taken a photo of my driveway, as I decided to get everything ready;
this is basically a "preview" for you.
If anything you see would be of use, PLEASE LET ME KNOW BEFORE FRIDAY.
Or just turn up.
Thanks in advance...:) JL
http://midcoast.com/~clocks/garagesale.jpg
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 21:42:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Garage sale
> http://midcoast.com/~clocks/garagesale.jpg
>
JL,
I'll take two of anything red from your sale.... that is less than $10.00
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 21:45:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Garage sale
<< If anything you see would be of use, >>
Yes, I am interested in the two shrubs behind all the junk cars.
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 21:05:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Garage sale
Wait a minute isn't that a Healey way in the back row there. I'll take
that one. Just wrap it up and I will pick it up in my next life.
Well I hope you had a good time at this outing even though it wasn't for
the right model car.
Thanks for the orgasm, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: List Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 8:27 PM
Subject: Garage sale
> Fellow car guys:
>
> Because of my debts, travelling, general living expenses and
> "self-employment salary", I find it difficult to carry on in the manner to
> which I've become accustomed.
>
> Though I don't want to, I will have to sell some of my "toys".
> Hence why I have decided to have a garage sale to dispose of several
> items. Garage sale will be this Saturday .
>
> I have taken a photo of my driveway, as I decided to get everything ready;
> this is basically a "preview" for you.
>
> If anything you see would be of use, PLEASE LET ME KNOW BEFORE FRIDAY.
>
> Or just turn up.
>
> Thanks in advance...:) JL
>
> http://midcoast.com/~clocks/garagesale.jpg
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 22:21:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Door glass
Keith Pennell
> Steve -
>
> Your windows "wobble" because your channels are not
> spaced correctly (they are probably too wide in
> spots). It is a good idea to take the channels out
> and make sure the spacing is evenly spaced along their
> entire length. Using an adjustable crescent wrench
> (adusted almost closed) with a towel in the slot to
> protect the chrome finish works well for minor
> adjustments here.
>
> I did this with my BJ8 and now the windows roll up and
> down easily with no wobble, and without any
> lubrication - this is good for long term life of the
> wind up mechanism as well....
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:
> > I believe the plastic glides were intended provide
> > all the lubrication needed
> > for the roll-up windows, although I have to admit
> > that I once lubricated the
> > front channel with aircraft grease. After a while,
> > the grease will get
> > pretty dirty, though and it's hard to relubricate
> > with the door trim panel and
> > window in place. A better long-term lubricant might
> > be paraffin wax, if a
> > lubricant is going to be used.
> >
> > Does anyone know if the roll-up window cars came
> > from the factory with the
> > windows fitting loosely in the tracks like mine do,
> > or was there something in
> > the channels to make them fit more snugly, more like
> > a modern window? Even
> > after I installed new plastic glides and with
> > undamaged channels, my windows
> > still feel pretty sloppy in the tracks.
> >
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > BJ8 Registry
> > Havelock, NC USA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Sid Bronson
> > To: healey forum
> > Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 11:57 AM
> > Subject: Door glass
> >
> >
> > I am installing reconditioned door glass in my 65
> > BJ8. I have new glides
> > in
> > the window framing. Should the tracks that the
> > glides run in be lubricated
> > and if so with what?
> > Sid.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 22:28:06 -0700
Subject: Re: logos on ebay
I too would be interested in having those.
Keith Pennell
> a few weeks ago I saw an auction on ebay for some AH logos ..4 to the
> set...appropriate for wheel centers on look-like minilites...does anyone
know where
> they can be gotten....
> thanks
> Jerry
> 59 BE
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 22:35:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Garage sale
Thanks a million for the heads up! I'll take the red one!
Keith Pennell
> Fellow car guys:
>
> Because of my debts, travelling, general living expenses and
> "self-employment salary", I find it difficult to carry on in the manner to
> which I've become accustomed.
>
> Though I don't want to, I will have to sell some of my "toys".
> Hence why I have decided to have a garage sale to dispose of several
> items. Garage sale will be this Saturday .
>
> I have taken a photo of my driveway, as I decided to get everything ready;
> this is basically a "preview" for you.
>
> If anything you see would be of use, PLEASE LET ME KNOW BEFORE FRIDAY.
>
> Or just turn up.
>
> Thanks in advance...:) JL
>
> http://midcoast.com/~clocks/garagesale.jpg
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 21:53:25 -0500
Subject: Differences between 100 S and 100M carbs
The M carbs are tilted and therefore the float bowls need to be reverse
tilted. The S carbs are not tilted and therefore the float bowls are level.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
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From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 19:55:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: New healey owner
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 20:00:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Door glass
The trick with it is actually the rear channel guide.
I think this is often over-looked. The wobble may be
caused by the rear channel being gooked up with stuff,
corroded or being slightly pinched, and it causes the
window action to grip a bit causing the visible wobble
at the front end.
Spend some time cleaning your channels (front and
back) making sure the arc matches the window, the
channel width is evenly spaced along the length of the
channel, and there's no corrosion. If all of this is
done, your windows will work very well. you won't have
to worry about wobble, or chatter and you won't need
to roll your window down only half way to keep it from
making noise... Getting it right like from the
factory you will be very please. No lubricant
necessary.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 23:49:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Garage sale
CB
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 23:14:06 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 aluminum sump install
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 20:19:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Stop that Door glass rattle!
If your BJ8 or BJ7 has a "rattle" when you roll the
window down, that more than likely means your rear
channel mount is broken.
Half rolling down the window will protect the window
and reduce the rattle, but the problem can be fixed
very easily w/ little or no cost.
There's a little bolt which holds the bottom of the
channel in place - the metal tongue that this bolt
goes through is welded to the bottom of the window
channel - over time corrosion often causes this weld
to break and the channel breaks loose from the
mounting tongue. That's why the glass will rattle
when it's rolled down - because the bottom of the
channel is not fixed in place like it should be.
You can fix this by taking the channel and tongue out
and having it rewelded.... or if you want to fix it in
the car that is easy as well.
Simply take a small piece of aluminum strip, drill a
hole in it and run it long enough so that about 1/2 to
1 inch sits in the end of the channel. The window
doesn't roll down this far, so it wont interfere with
the window action. Run the mount bolt through the
hole, tighten it down, and voila... the channel is
fixed in place and no rattle sounds!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Alex <alexmm@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Hi Steve:
>
> I remember when I had my BJ8, brand new in 1967.
> From that time forward I
> *always* wound the window glass down only until the
> rubber door-mounted
> weather sealing gasket. That way it would never
> rattle. (Not good if you
> like to hang your arm out the window though).
>
> My late friend Jim Egan's '67 BJ8 was treated the
> same way in order to keep
> the glass from rattling.
>
> FYI.
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> Amateur Radio AI2Q
> http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
>
> .-.-.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> BJ8Healeys
> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 11:01 PM
> To: healey forum
> Subject: Re: Door glass
>
>
> I believe the plastic glides were intended provide
> all the lubrication
> needed
> for the roll-up windows, although I have to admit
> that I once lubricated the
> front channel with aircraft grease. After a while,
> the grease will get
> pretty dirty, though and it's hard to relubricate
> with the door trim panel
> and
> window in place. A better long-term lubricant might
> be paraffin wax, if a
> lubricant is going to be used.
>
> Does anyone know if the roll-up window cars came
> from the factory with the
> windows fitting loosely in the tracks like mine do,
> or was there something
> in
> the channels to make them fit more snugly, more like
> a modern window? Even
> after I installed new plastic glides and with
> undamaged channels, my windows
> still feel pretty sloppy in the tracks.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 20:26:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Garage sale
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote:
> Fellow car guys:
>
> Because of my debts, travelling, general living
> expenses and
> "self-employment salary", I find it difficult to
> carry on in the manner to
> which I've become accustomed.
>
> Though I don't want to, I will have to sell some of
> my "toys".
> Hence why I have decided to have a garage sale to
> dispose of several
> items. Garage sale will be this Saturday .
>
> I have taken a photo of my driveway, as I decided to
> get everything ready;
> this is basically a "preview" for you.
>
> If anything you see would be of use, PLEASE LET ME
> KNOW BEFORE FRIDAY.
>
> Or just turn up.
>
> Thanks in advance...:) JL
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 21:05:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: New healey owner
congrats on your new purchase! There's no synchro in
first.
While the gearbox is being worked on, make sure they
replace the second gear synchro ring... this one gets
the most wear.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Skip Besaw <besaw55@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am a new owner of an AH 3000 MK III 1967 BJ8. I
> have read the manual which states that the car has
> synchro in 2nd and 3rd gear, no mention of first so
> I assumed that there is no synchro in first. he car
> was delivered with a bad 2nd gear and the garage
> where I bought it took it back and is correcting the
> problem. It's been a while and the owner told me
> today that they were also getting the parts for
> synchro in first. I don't believe he's correct. Is
> he? Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Skip
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 23:06:18 -0500
Subject: Re: New healey owner
Enjoy your new toy, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Skip Besaw <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 9:55 PM
Subject: New healey owner
> Hi,
>
> I am a new owner of an AH 3000 MK III 1967 BJ8. I have read the manual
which states that the car has synchro in 2nd and 3rd gear, no mention of
first so I assumed that there is no synchro in first. he car was delivered
with a bad 2nd gear and the garage where I bought it took it back and is
correcting the problem. It's been a while and the owner told me today that
they were also getting the parts for synchro in first. I don't believe he's
correct. Is he? Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Skip
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 21:55:14 -0700
Subject: Re: New healey owner
Welcome to the joys - etc. etc!
No big Healey original transmission has a synchro first gear no matter what
anyone tells you.
They all have synchromesh on 2nd, 3rd, and 4th.
I would try and get a clearer understanding of what you are being told.
Correcting a bad 2nd gear synchro ring involves removing the transmission /
overdrive unit from the car, removing the o /d from the trans, and basically
rebuilding the whole gearbox.
This is not exactly a small job - better check it out.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 7:55 PM
Subject: New healey owner
Hi,
I am a new owner of an AH 3000 MK III 1967 BJ8. I have read the manual which
states that the car has synchro in 2nd and 3rd gear, no mention of first so
I assumed that there is no synchro in first. he car was delivered with a bad
2nd gear and the garage where I bought it took it back and is correcting the
problem. It's been a while and the owner told me today that they were also
getting the parts for synchro in first. I don't believe he's correct. Is he?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Skip
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 05:35:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Garage sale
<<I have taken a photo of my driveway, as I decided to get everything ready;
this is basically a "preview" for you.>>
Gotta be a joke, we haven't had a day that sunny in the northeast for months.
Boston's now known as "Seattle without the Space Needle".
Rick
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From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 05:47:32 -0600
Subject: Re Ebay Austins
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 08:15:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Differences between 100 S and 100M carbs
Jim
BN1,BN2,BN6,BN7, no 100S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
To: "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 10:53 PM
Subject: Differences between 100 S and 100M carbs
> It appears that the obvious differences between M and S carbs are the
float
> bowls.
>
> The M carbs are tilted and therefore the float bowls need to be reverse
> tilted. The S carbs are not tilted and therefore the float bowls are
level.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 100-M
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 09:36:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Stop that Door glass rattle!
<<
If your BJ8 or BJ7 has a "rattle" when you roll the
window down, that more than likely means your rear
channel mount is broken. >>
I have found that the big reason for window rattle when rolled down is that
the rubber buffer is torn or missing. Next time you go inside the door, check
it.
tom
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 07:20:45 -0700
Subject: aluminum sump installation BJ8
However, he said that in order to shorten the pickup tube inside the pickup
strainer, you need to remove the whole oil pump at the crankcase. Anything
in the workshop manual that starts with "care should be taken..." concerns
me.
Looking over the Workshop Manual it seems that you can remove the horizontal
arm holding the gauze strainer at the right angle where there are 4 bolts
from underneath. Then on the bench remove the three bolts holding the
strainer and shorten the pick up. Will this work? Sorry if this is not
making too much sense.
Thx
Ron 67 BJ8
PS Is there an aluminum sump out there that doesn't require all these
modifications?
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 10:41:35 EDT
Subject: Re: New healey owner
<< No big Healey original transmission has a synchro first gear no matter
what anyone tells
you. >>
Earl,
Except for a stock BN1 where first gear was synchro since it was actually
second gear in the box originally. The stump puller first gear (non synchro),
was blocked off to make it a three speed. So I guess technically we are both
correct.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 10:42:36 -0500
Subject: Re: New healey owner
I saw your note on the Healey list and just wanted to let you know that my
company Classic Auto Lubes handles Penrite Oil Products imported from the UK.
If you would like a brochure packet let me have your mailing address and
I'll get one out to you.
With these great cars, I have a BN1(3 speed and Full syncro) and a BJ8, the
correct lubricants can be very important to the operation and longevity of
the various components. All of the information and advise from the list if
right on as usual.
Learn all you can about your car and you will have a great time with it.
Cheers and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 07:55 PM 6/17/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I am a new owner of an AH 3000 MK III 1967 BJ8. I have read the manual
which states that the car has synchro in 2nd and 3rd gear, no mention of
first so I assumed that there is no synchro in first. he car was delivered
with a bad 2nd gear and the garage where I bought it took it back and is
correcting the problem. It's been a while and the owner told me today that
they were also getting the parts for synchro in first. I don't believe he's
correct. Is he? Thanks in advance for your help.
>
>Skip
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 12:23:50 EDT
Subject: Adjusting tappets with Peronix fitted.
I've a Petronix, so doesn't that complicate adjusting the tappets?...no
points gap opening to watch???
Can one still put a light bulb across CB & SW? Wouldn't that fry the Peronix?
What do you guys do?
7, finally(!), isn't there some dispute/discussion as to do adjust with the
engine hot or cold?
Simon.
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 12:22:08 -0400
Subject: RE: Garage sale
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 9:28 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Garage sale
Fellow car guys:
Because of my debts, travelling, general living expenses and
"self-employment salary", I find it difficult to carry on in the manner to
which I've become accustomed.
Though I don't want to, I will have to sell some of my "toys".
Hence why I have decided to have a garage sale to dispose of several
items. Garage sale will be this Saturday .
I have taken a photo of my driveway, as I decided to get everything ready;
this is basically a "preview" for you.
If anything you see would be of use, PLEASE LET ME KNOW BEFORE FRIDAY.
Or just turn up.
Thanks in advance...:) JL
http://midcoast.com/~clocks/garagesale.jpg
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 09:31:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Aluminum Sump
I just checked: my sump fins extend about 3/4" below the frame rails.
It almost sounds like there is more than one version out there. My
understanding was they were all made by the same foundry.
The shorter one would certainly seem preferable.
I wonder where these pans without the baffles are sold. The Moss catalog
clearly shows a baffle in theirs.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
> I have the old sump off
> and just got off the phone with AH Spares who gave me the number of one of
> their restorers.
> The restorer said to remove the whole oil pump at the crankcase in order to
> get the gauze off which seems like a LOT of work and you need to be worried
> about getting the gears meshed again.
> Can you remove the horizontal arm holding the gauze strainer at the right
> angle where there are 4 bolts from underneath? Then on the bench remove the
> strainer and shorten the pick up then?
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 12:30:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: aluminum sump installation BJ8
A friend of mine cut out the bottom of a badly beaten oil pan and welded in a
new piece of metal.
We had heard that it is difficult to weld metal that has been soaked in oil,
but no problem was
encountered. Then we welded an oil pan protection plate, based on "Austin
Service Journal"
bulletin dated 11 Nov. 1960; No.A/306 which describes a 'sump protection plate'
for Austin Healey
3000 (BN7; BT7).
The bulletin states:
"To prevent sump damage in very rough country, a mild steel protection plate
(Fig. 1) may be
welded to the sump in six places (Fig. 2). Sumps should be drained and
removed before welding.
Arc-welding is preferable if distortion is to be avoided and Si fbronze will
also enable a
satisfactory job to be made."
Based on a list discussion early last September, several sites offered to host
a tech page with a
protection plate template that I had prepared. The article can be found at
JustBrits web site :
http://www.justbrits.com/sump/sumpplate.htm
If you have any trouble accessing it or are interested in further explanations,
drop me a line and
I can email the templates directly.
Regards, --Scott Morris
--- Ron Davies <rdavies1@cox.net> wrote: << I have the old sump off with the BJ
Weld hole repair.
I just got off the phone with AH Spares who gave me the number of one of their
restorers. This
unit require removing the oil drain on the rear main, the small drain pipe for
excess oil pressure
and shortening the oil pump pick up. I understand that the two tubes "just"
unscrew. However, he
said that in order to shorten the pickup tube inside the pickup strainer, you
need to remove the
whole oil pump at the crankcase. Anything in the workshop manual that starts
with "care should be
taken..." concerns me. ........ Is there an aluminum sump out there that
doesn't require all
these
modifications? >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 13:43:34 -0400
Subject: Windshield Glass & Perspex Scratches
Have a windshield (BT7) that needs some very light scratches removed, and
wondered what products and techniques you may have successfully used for
such situations.
Also have a hardtop with the Perspex rear window (original) that has some
scratches and would like to at least improve the overall clarity, and and
wondered what products and techniques you mae have successfully used.
Thanks in advance.
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 14:08:03 -0400
Subject: Healey Abbott Owners?
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 15:53:06 -0400
Subject: Test, Delete
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From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at attbi.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 15:50:11 -0400
Subject: Brake fluid reservoir, late BN4
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 12:46:25 -0700
Subject: oil drain
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 15:04:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Differences between 100 S and 100M carbs
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From "GA Carnut" <gacarnut at hotmail.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 16:21:25 -0400
Subject: Legends of Motorsports
Starts out w/ them detailing the car - there's a nice works Healey 3000 w/
in-car camera (nice!), a mg midget driven by paddy hopkirk and andrew
hedges, and a prototype healey sprite driven by altaman (sp?) and baker...
This looks like it's going to be fun! I love the speed channel, when it's
not on NASCAR...
Cheers!
Chip
Chip Mautz
'88 BMW 528e
'64 Austin Healey Sprite
'02 Toyota 4Runner
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Dave Caudle" <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 16:28:22 -0400
Subject: Fw: Post Conclave Tour Discount
Due to personal reasons Carrie and I will not be attending the Post Conclave
Tour. Here's a chance to go on an exciting tour of one of the most historic
areas in America. We will discount the total price we paid by 30%. That's a
savings of $1255, we paid $4185, you pay $2929.
The Post Tour will leave Tyson's Corner on Tuesday, July 1st and drive via the
Skyline Drive and Blue Ridge Parkway to the Homestead Resort and Spa (5 Star)
in Hot Springs, Va. On Wednesday you may relax and take the "cure" (the Spa)
or take your Healey on a 150 -mile loop through some of the prettiest valleys
in the state's Western Highlands. This includes 2 breakfasts and 2 dinners.
www.thehomestead.com
Thursday, travel south and west along the Virginia Byways to White Sulfur
Springs and The Greenbrier Resort (5 Star). Friday you will be free to
explore a scenic loop in West Virginia and take advantage of the resort. On
Friday night there will be fireworks. This includes 2 breakfasts and 2
dinners. www.greenbrier.com
Saturday, continue via Byways to Richmond. (Some may wish to divert north a
few miles to see Monticello - Thomas Jefferson's Home). In Richmond, we'll
drive down Monument Avenue with its statues of Civil War Heroes to the State
Capitol (The oldest Greek Revival building in the country), continuing past
St. John's Episcopal Church, the site of Patrick Henry's "Give me Liberty or
Give me Death" speech, to Route 5 with its plantations along the James River.
The day will end in Colonial Williamsburg, staying at The Williamsburg Inn.
This includes 2 breakfasts and 2 dinners. www.colonialwilliamsburg.com
Sunday will be free to explore the restored 18th century town, golf, visit
Busch Gardens, drive the Colonial Parkway to Jamestown and Yorktown, or visit
the Outlet Malls. The day will end with cocktails and a great
B-B-Que on the lawn at our home on the banks of the James River in Newport
News.
Monday, Travel the back roads north to Irvington, VA, and the Tides Inn Resort
on the Rappahannock River, in time for lunch. That evening we will have
cocktails and dinner cruising on the Miss Ann ( the hotel's 125 foot yacht).
Includes Breakfast, Dinner, River Cruise. www.tidesinn.com
Tuesday, depart for home.
The hotels are top-drawer hotels for this special tour, so bring your blazers
and tie and your little black dresses for a couple of nice dinners.
If the tour is longer than your schedule permits, I will offer a discount on
The Homestead and The Greenbrier packages, which is July 1 - 5.
Please respond to Dave Caudle for more information:
Home: caudle1@charter.net Home: 828-687-7623
Office: dave@plus-go.com Office: 828-684-1992 (please have me paged)
Cell: 828-775-1995
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 16:40:15 -0400
Subject: Re: help..Tricarb Parts Needed
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:24:06 +0200
Subject: Re: Windshield Glass & Perspex Scratches
Over here in Europe we have a product called "Autosol" which is
supposed to be used for polishing chromed bits. It just so happens that
it also works perfectly well for polishing Perspex, removing small
scratch and improving clarity. Its a white paste with a fine grinding
compound in it.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:50:30 +0100
Subject: RE: Healeys for Sale
"Classic and Sports Car" gives under heading "Max/0-60 mph" 51/never
!!!!
Peter Dzwig
Peter Dzwig
Blue One Hundred wrote:
>It's amazing what turns up in OK. I'm sure either a
>flood or tornado long past deposited it on this
>person's front doorstep. PAYDIRT!
>
>If I am not mistaken, the convertible is a American
>Austin Roadster (Swallow?) microcar. These were
>popular with 1930s movie stars and I think you were
>lucky to get the car up to 45 miles an hour (it had a
>700 cc motor in it)... although in 1930 there were no
>freeways to speek of so that was probably as fast as
>anyone needed to go...
>
>I don't think the car is a 1930 model, it looks later
>than that... possibly a 1934 (the fenders are larger
>and more rounded than other austin convertibles I've
>seen from that time).
>
>I'm sure someone in the UK would pay a mint for this
>car.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>--- Charley Braum <cbaustin@sgi.net> wrote:
>
>
>> Anyone out there bidding on the two 'Austin
>>Healeys (Healy)' on e-Bay?
>>
>> Items 2419576889 and 2419578497.
>>
>> Comments??? Historical background???
>>
>>
>> C
>>B
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 17:11:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Door glass
My rear window channels are perfectly clean, with no gunk, corrosion, or
damaged/pinched areas. The problem with my windows is not that they bind
either at front or rear, but each one seems to fit way too loose in the
channels --- especially the rear one. The nylon guides do not fit into either
the front or rear channels tightly enough to prevent side-to-side movement of
the window glass. It appears to me that the rear channel, especially, needs
some kind of liner so that the nylon guide fits the channel tighter. If the
factory didn't put anything there, so be it; but if they didn't, I don't see
how the windows of the cars didn't rattle from new (as a lister who bought one
new told me they did).
I just went out to check my BJ8. Both windows fit tighter in the front
channel than at the rear. By grasping the window and moving it side to side,
I can make it knock a lot at the rear. The windows crank up and down just
fine.
Cheers!
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Blue One Hundred
To: BJ8Healeys ; healey forum
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: Door glass
Steve -
The trick with it is actually the rear channel guide.
I think this is often over-looked. The wobble may be
caused by the rear channel being gooked up with stuff,
corroded or being slightly pinched, and it causes the
window action to grip a bit causing the visible wobble
at the front end.
Spend some time cleaning your channels (front and
back) making sure the arc matches the window, the
channel width is evenly spaced along the length of the
channel, and there's no corrosion. If all of this is
done, your windows will work very well. you won't have
to worry about wobble, or chatter and you won't need
to roll your window down only half way to keep it from
making noise... Getting it right like from the
factory you will be very please. No lubricant
necessary.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: "Rick" <WebmasterRick@attbi.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 18:15:38 -0400
Subject: Fraud Alert Not Healey Related
John May
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 17:49:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Door glass
most roadster healey owners say, " if i wanted to drive a car with roll-up
windows, i'd drive my everyday .........." !!
BJ8Healeys wrote:
>
> Hi, Alan -
>
> My rear window channels are perfectly clean, with no gunk, corrosion, or
> damaged/pinched areas. The problem with my windows is not that they bind
> either at front or rear, but each one seems to fit way too loose in the
> channels --- especially the rear one. The nylon guides do not fit into either
> the front or rear channels tightly enough to prevent side-to-side movement of
> the window glass. It appears to me that the rear channel, especially, needs
> some kind of liner so that the nylon guide fits the channel tighter. If the
> factory didn't put anything there, so be it; but if they didn't, I don't see
> how the windows of the cars didn't rattle from new (as a lister who bought one
> new told me they did).
>
> I just went out to check my BJ8. Both windows fit tighter in the front
> channel than at the rear. By grasping the window and moving it side to side,
> I can make it knock a lot at the rear. The windows crank up and down just
> fine.
>
> Cheers!
> Steve
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Blue One Hundred
> To: BJ8Healeys ; healey forum
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 11:00 PM
> Subject: Re: Door glass
>
>
> Steve -
>
> The trick with it is actually the rear channel guide.
> I think this is often over-looked. The wobble may be
> caused by the rear channel being gooked up with stuff,
> corroded or being slightly pinched, and it causes the
> window action to grip a bit causing the visible wobble
> at the front end.
>
> Spend some time cleaning your channels (front and
> back) making sure the arc matches the window, the
> channel width is evenly spaced along the length of the
> channel, and there's no corrosion. If all of this is
> done, your windows will work very well. you won't have
> to worry about wobble, or chatter and you won't need
> to roll your window down only half way to keep it from
> making noise... Getting it right like from the
> factory you will be very please. No lubricant
> necessary.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>
--------- End Original Message ---------
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From "George Couch" <george at kclsystems.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 19:17:00 -0400
Subject: It's finally time..
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 20:17:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Door glass
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Wall
To: sbyers@ec.rr.com ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: Door glass
most roadster healey owners say, " if i wanted to drive a car with roll-up
windows, i'd drive my everyday .........." !!
BJ8Healeys wrote:
>
> Hi, Alan -
>
> My rear window channels are perfectly clean, with no gunk, corrosion, or
> damaged/pinched areas. The problem with my windows is not that they
bind
> either at front or rear, but each one seems to fit way too loose in the
> channels --- especially the rear one. The nylon guides do not fit into
either
> the front or rear channels tightly enough to prevent side-to-side
movement of
> the window glass. It appears to me that the rear channel, especially,
needs
> some kind of liner so that the nylon guide fits the channel tighter. If
the
> factory didn't put anything there, so be it; but if they didn't, I don't
see
> how the windows of the cars didn't rattle from new (as a lister who
bought one
> new told me they did).
>
> I just went out to check my BJ8. Both windows fit tighter in the front
> channel than at the rear. By grasping the window and moving it side to
side,
> I can make it knock a lot at the rear. The windows crank up and down
just
> fine.
>
> Cheers!
> Steve
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 20:32:14 -0400
Subject: RE: It's finally time..
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8 (leaving Tuesday for Conclave 2003)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of George Couch
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 7:17 PM
To: Alex; Healeys (E-mail)
Subject: It's finally time..
I'm about to bite the bullet and replace the tyres on my BJ8.
After hearing all the rave reviews about the Michelin 175R15 zx's, I was
hoping someone in North America could maybe give me some advice as to where
I might find a set of four...
I've got an estimate from a company and they're telling me it'll be 8 weeks
delivery (uh, putting us at the end of AUGUST! - *lump in throat*...)
Thanks in advance, all!
Regards,
George.
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 17:37:37 -0700
Subject: Re: logos on ebay
> Jerry,
>
> I too would be interested in having those.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
>
> > a few weeks ago I saw an auction on ebay for some AH logos ..4 to the
> > set...appropriate for wheel centers on look-like minilites...does anyone
> know where
> > they can be gotten....
> > thanks
> > Jerry
> > 59 BE
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 19:20:58 -0600
Subject: Re: It's finally time..
All three of these should have the tire in stock.
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/tires.html
http://www.britishwirewheel.com/
http://www.cokertire.com/
Dave Russell
George Couch wrote:
> I'm about to bite the bullet and replace the tyres on my BJ8.
> After hearing all the rave reviews about the Michelin 175R15 zx's, I was
>hoping someone in North America could maybe give me some advice as to where I
>might find a set of four...
> I've got an estimate from a company and they're telling me it'll be 8 weeks
>delivery (uh, putting us at the end of AUGUST! - *lump in throat*...)
> Thanks in advance, all!
> Regards,
>
> George.
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:27:12 -0400
Subject: RE: New healey owner
If you car was jumping out of second gear, the shop may have
opted to replace the outer part of first gear on the theory that
it inner teeth were worn.
BTW, labor hours for all of this work on a BJ7 are approximately:
3.5 hours to remove the gearbox
3 hours to rebuild it
3.5 hours to replace it.
(BTDTGTTS)
HTH,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Skip Besaw
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 10:55 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: New healey owner
Hi,
I am a new owner of an AH 3000 MK III 1967 BJ8. I have read the manual which
states that the car has synchro in 2nd and 3rd gear, no mention of first so
I assumed that there is no synchro in first. he car was delivered with a bad
2nd gear and the garage where I bought it took it back and is correcting the
problem. It's been a while and the owner told me today that they were also
getting the parts for synchro in first. I don't believe he's correct. Is he?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Skip
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:41:27 -0400
Subject: searching owners
The last hope I have of getting pre-1988 service information is from the
successor(s) to "Special Interest Automotive" of Sepulveda, whose silver label
and (213) telephone number is on the valve cover. Unfortunately, the number
has been reassigned to an Assistant United States Attorney, who thought I was,
to say the least, calling from a different time zone. Dead End.
Does anyone in California remember dealing with this concern? Any leads on if
there is a successor company. This is the last lead.
Thanks. Allen
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 20:35:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Windshield Glass & Perspex Scratches
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Larry Dickstein" <lonejacklarry at kcweb.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:29:05 -0500
Subject: Walnut veneer
Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks.
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 23:31:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Fraud Alert Not Healey Related
I just got two of the 'alerts', each from a different 'sender'.
The messages were essentially both the same with some slight variations
in text layout.
The big problem here is - I have never done business with Best-Buy.
Maybe they (Best-Buy) bought a mailing list and it got raided, or, the perp
has infiltrated someone's address book.
At any rate, best thing to do is delete without reading.
Thanks for the heads up,
CB
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 19:50:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Door glass
It sounds like to me that the PO (or factory?) widened
the channels. On my BJ8 there is no movement from
side to side in the front or rear (with new nylon
guides). In fact, if you look at the front channel,
it has only a very small gap between the channel lip
and the door glass frame.
Regards,
Alan
--- BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:
> Hi, Alan -
>
> My rear window channels are perfectly clean, with no
> gunk, corrosion, or
> damaged/pinched areas. The problem with my windows
> is not that they bind
> either at front or rear, but each one seems to fit
> way too loose in the
> channels --- especially the rear one. The nylon
> guides do not fit into either
> the front or rear channels tightly enough to prevent
> side-to-side movement of
> the window glass. It appears to me that the rear
> channel, especially, needs
> some kind of liner so that the nylon guide fits the
> channel tighter. If the
> factory didn't put anything there, so be it; but if
> they didn't, I don't see
> how the windows of the cars didn't rattle from new
> (as a lister who bought one
> new told me they did).
>
> I just went out to check my BJ8. Both windows fit
> tighter in the front
> channel than at the rear. By grasping the window
> and moving it side to side,
> I can make it knock a lot at the rear. The windows
> crank up and down just
> fine.
>
> Cheers!
> Steve
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Blue One Hundred
> To: BJ8Healeys ; healey forum
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 11:00 PM
> Subject: Re: Door glass
>
>
> Steve -
>
> The trick with it is actually the rear channel
> guide.
> I think this is often over-looked. The wobble may
> be
> caused by the rear channel being gooked up with
> stuff,
> corroded or being slightly pinched, and it causes
> the
> window action to grip a bit causing the visible
> wobble
> at the front end.
>
> Spend some time cleaning your channels (front and
> back) making sure the arc matches the window, the
> channel width is evenly spaced along the length of
> the
> channel, and there's no corrosion. If all of this
> is
> done, your windows will work very well. you won't
> have
> to worry about wobble, or chatter and you won't
> need
> to roll your window down only half way to keep it
> from
> making noise... Getting it right like from the
> factory you will be very please. No lubricant
> necessary.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "Pete Ryner" <pryner at interfold.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:39:42 -0600
Subject: RE: Walnut veneer
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 20:58:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Aluminum Sump
> From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
> Reply-To: <rdavies1@cox.net>
> Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 20:30:18 -0700
> To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
> Subject: RE: Aluminum Sump
>
> Glad you asked.
> I put the original and the aluminum on the ground next to each other and
> they have equal height, both 6 and 1/8 inch.
> The aluminum needs to be thicker but they didn't want it to have less ground
> clearance, thus it has less internal volume.
> I am concerned about removing the oil drain on the rear main. There must be
> a reason it's there.
> Ron
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From Richard Gordon <HealeyHundred at comcast.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 22:42:17 -0600
Subject: Perspex scratches...
There are a couple of good products to use. One is toothpaste. This
can be fairly aggressive, so be careful. The second is a 3 stage
scratch remover and plastics polisher called Novus. This is a superior
product that I have used successfully with many different types of
plastic and acrylic's. It should be available from many different
sources. Check it out at http://www.noscratch.com/novus/.
Best,
Richard
Subject: Windshield Glass & Perspex Scratches
Hi all,
Have a windshield (BT7) that needs some very light scratches removed,
and
wondered what products and techniques you may have successfully used for
such situations.
Also have a hardtop with the Perspex rear window (original) that has
some
scratches and would like to at least improve the overall clarity, and
and
wondered what products and techniques you mae have successfully used.
Thanks in advance.
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
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From "Byron Krystad" <bkrystad at drizzle.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 22:04:00 -0700
Subject: are (most) all generators the same?
I'm used to parts for 100s being different from the 100-6s and 3000s.
But Moss indicates that the same Lucas generator was used from late BN1
to BN6, specifically "BN1 from C.E.223155, BN2, BN4, BN6". So this means
I shouldn't be limiting my search to 100s parts cars or bins? Are they
truly interchangeable across these models? Or is there a catch that will
make later ones "not quite right" for swapping brackets?
-Byron Krystad
Seattle, WA
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 22:19:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Walnut veneer
Alan
--- Larry Dickstein <lonejacklarry@kcweb.net> wrote:
> Anyone have an idea where I might find veneer for
> the dash of a BJ8? The
> veneer is really thin and the stuff I've found is
> very much thicker and not
> close to the original burled wood. I'm not a
> Concours goofie (any more) but
> I'd like to stay in the ball park w/ the dash.
>
> Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks.
>
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 22:56:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Rear brake assy fasteners
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 23:58:32 -0600
Subject: Re: Garage sale
Bill Lawrence
James Lea wrote:
> Fellow car guys:
>
> Because of my debts, travelling, general living expenses and
> "self-employment salary", I find it difficult to carry on in the manner to
> which I've become accustomed.
>
> Though I don't want to, I will have to sell some of my "toys".
> Hence why I have decided to have a garage sale to dispose of several
> items. Garage sale will be this Saturday .
>
> I have taken a photo of my driveway, as I decided to get everything ready;
> this is basically a "preview" for you.
>
> If anything you see would be of use, PLEASE LET ME KNOW BEFORE FRIDAY.
>
> Or just turn up.
>
> Thanks in advance...:) JL
>
> http://midcoast.com/~clocks/garagesale.jpg
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 19:44:47 +1000
Subject: Re: oil drain
If you had a sump baffle in place - then it would be a bad thing - as the
oil returning to the sump would more likeley end up 'on top' of the baffle -
instead of underneath it.
However - on a road car - without the extra horizontal extra baffling - it
would be fine.
i.e. when you have a baffled sump on a race engine - you want as much of the
returning oil, as possible, as unaerated as possible, returned as a liquid
'under' the big horizontal baffle.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 5:46 AM
Subject: oil drain
> Can anyone think of any negative results by removing the oil drain on the
> rear main of a 67 BJ8?
> That's the 3/4 inch tube that drops down into the very back of the
sump....
> Thx,
> Ron
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 07:27:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Walnut veneer
<< I did a Healey many
years ago and used a pour over plastic coating >>
I've been looking for some of this stuff and haven't been able to find any.
Any idea wher to get it?
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From "Dave Caudle" <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 08:21:13 -0400
Subject: post conclave tour
Dave
blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
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From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 07:37:02 -0600
Subject: Aluminum Door Finishers
I am in need of new aluminum door finishers for my BJ8. Mine are pretty sad
and with a new paint job I can't bring myself to put them back in. Has
anyone gotten expecially nice ones that look original from any particular
vendor?
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 11:46:27 EDT
Subject: Re: are (most) all generators the same?
The brackets will be interchangeable. Externally the one difference between
the early brackets on the BN1 & some BN2s and the later cars (BN4/6s) is the
brass oiler screwed into the back to lubricate the bearing. The part no. for
the Bracket, Commutator end, is 239266.
However the part nos. cast onto the back of two brackets that I have are
239013 (w/ oiler) and 239259 (w/out oiler). Sometimes with Lucas parts, these
numbers are for the bare aluminum casting and not the part when complete with
the
terminals and brackets installed (riveted on).
NOS brackets are not that hard to find, and in fact I have come up with 8 or
9 over the years. You also may be able to weld the bracket until you can
locate a replacement.
You might want to check in your area to see if John Bullis, of Classic Auto
Electric still lives in Woodinville, WA. John rebuilt a number of generators
and starters for me and he is absolutely the best for the money, which was
extremely reasonable.
A generator done by him would be completely stripped and cleaned, the inside
panted with Glyptol Paint, brand new field coils installed (The original Lucas
coils are interchangeable with a Ford part no.) new bearings installed, the
armature serviced and tested and everything reassembled and even painted the
correct Healey engine green, and all for $100! As far as I know, John has
never
had one of his rebuilds returned due to failure.
E-mail me directly if you have more questions. Also I have a shop here in
San Diego run by a Brit who also does outstanding work and may be able to help
you with the parts.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
In a message dated 6/18/03 10:05:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bkrystad@drizzle.com writes:
<< I've got a decent generator on my BN2 that now has a broken bolt hole on
the rear bracket ("commutator end", I guess), so I'm trying to track
down a donor generator to get a replacement bracket off of.
I'm used to parts for 100s being different from the 100-6s and 3000s.
But Moss indicates that the same Lucas generator was used from late BN1
to BN6, specifically "BN1 from C.E.223155, BN2, BN4, BN6". So this means
I shouldn't be limiting my search to 100s parts cars or bins? Are they
truly interchangeable across these models? Or is there a catch that will
make later ones "not quite right" for swapping brackets?
-Byron Krystad
Seattle, WA >>
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From Jnhorn at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 11:48:36 EDT
Subject: Loose keyway/damper
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From Joel Seguine <jseguine at umich.edu>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 12:44:56 -0400
Subject: Finding a Car
A friend of mine in Ann Arbor has been on a quest to find a BN1 his Dad
brought back from France in 1955 and sold soon afterwards. He's made a
lot of contacts, checked the Registry, etc., to no avail. I told him
I'd ask the e-mail group if anyone knows about the car and think with
him about an ad in Hemmings, etc. Anyway, here's his e-mail to me that
I'll pass along:
"My dad's Healey was purchased in 1955 in Paris, France. It was shipped
back to the USA in October 1955 and he sold it around Thanksgiving time
1955, in Kansas City, MO. The VIN is #BN1-L-226657."
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
--
Joel Seguine
Ann Arbor, MI
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 12:45:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Loose keyway/damper
<< My vibration damper (the aftermarket version from Moss) is loose and I
have
traced the problem to the keyway on the crank. (It's not the water pump). I
have replaced keys twice, but I race the Healey ( a BJ8) and after each race,
the
pulley setup has about 1/2 of play in moving the fan/fan belt. Having tried
JB weld on the keyway and tightening the lock washer & dog nut on the end of
the crank, I suspect that the key way is slightly too wide. My question is
this:
I would like to avoid having to take out the crank for repairs to the keyway:
I have an aluminum radiator so that the car runs very cool and I only use it
for SCCA racing. Does it really matter that there is this small amount of
play
in the fan/damper, etc.? The car doesn't overheat at all.
Thank
Jon Einhorn
BJ8 MKIII
New Haven, CT.
>>
My damper came with instructions that said to get a new woodruff key to make
suse it fit well.
Rick
San Diego
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 11:00:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Loose keyway/damper
Yes, it really matters.
The damper was designed to damp torisonal vibrations in the crankshaft.
These vibrations can break a crank, especially at sustained high rpm.
The damper cannot do it's job if it is moving on the crank. The damper
could just as well not be there if it is moving.
Epoxy in the keyway will not begin to hold it. If the crank keyway is
too wide you could maybe make or have made or find a key which tightly
fits in the crank slot & have the damper slot machined wider to match.
This is assuming that the crank keyway is not damaged from running
things loose. Chances are pretty good that it is damaged by now. (Sides
not parallel in the radial plane)
I guess that you can take your chances. Maybe the damper is not needed
in the first place & you won't break the crank, though I doubt it.
Dave Russell
Jnhorn@aol.com wrote:
> My vibration damper (the aftermarket version from Moss) is loose and I have
> traced the problem to the keyway on the crank. (It's not the water pump). I
> have replaced keys twice, but I race the Healey ( a BJ8) and after each race,
>the
> pulley setup has about 1/2 of play in moving the fan/fan belt. Having tried
> JB weld on the keyway and tightening the lock washer & dog nut on the end of
> the crank, I suspect that the key way is slightly too wide. My question is
>this:
> I would like to avoid having to take out the crank for repairs to the keyway:
> I have an aluminum radiator so that the car runs very cool and I only use it
> for SCCA racing. Does it really matter that there is this small amount of
>play
> in the fan/damper, etc.? The car doesn't overheat at all.
> Thank
> Jon Einhorn
> BJ8 MKIII
> New Haven, CT.
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From "Turney, John" <John.Turney at shawgrp.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 12:46:25 -0700
Subject: oil drain
Can anyone think of any negative results by removing the oil drain on the
rear main of a 67 BJ8?
That's the 3/4 inch tube that drops down into the very back of the sump....
Thx,
Ron
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 16:39:46 -0400
Subject: Loose keyway/damper
> My vibration damper (the aftermarket version from Moss) is loose and I
have
> traced the problem to the keyway on the crank. <snip>
Does it really matter that there is this small amount of play
> in the fan/damper, etc.?
> Jon Einhorn
> BJ8 MKIII
> New Haven, CT.
John,
Many years ago I had a BJ8 with a slightly loose crank pulley and damper due
to these same reasons.
It would show up by emitting a low RPM rattle.
I was young and ignorant that this might cause a problem until it caused a
major stress crack in the crank and split it in two!
Miraculously there was no damage to anything but the crank. I was able to
replace the crank, pulley and damper with ones from another engine and
installed all new bearing shells while I was at it.
It was the summer of 1975, and British Leyland North America was on strike
for about 11 weeks. I finally got my parts (gaskets, bearings, etc.) in late
August, having waited from mid May. It was a long time for a single kid of
22 to be without his Healey!
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From Doug Miller <enginem at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 13:45:39 -0700
Subject: Side Curtains
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From "John R. Draxler" <jdrax at tds.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 15:55:38 -0500
Subject: Tire recommendation AH BJ8
I need a good recommendation for tires and a supplier for a BJ8
My customer is going to want a really good handling tire. What do you
recommend?
Oh yea, what size also
-----------------------------------------------------------
Thunderbird Ranch 7158 Highway B Pittsville, WI 54466
Ph 715-884-6546 (9-5 central ) fax 715-884-6720 jdrax@tds.net
http://www.tbirdranch.com (Subscribe to my free newsletter on my website)
And now a second website........ http://www.tbirdhelp.com
Have a terrific day and may God guide your footsteps.
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 18:08:59 +0100
Subject: Re: are (most) all generators the same?
My information might be wrong but it does not come to the same
conclusion. The rear bearing is longer on the later bracket so you might
be able to fit a later bracket to an early armature but not I believe
the other way around. Mind you I am only going by the published
information. I have not tried these 'mixed' situations myself. Maybe in
practice one can get away with it?
All the best
>The brackets will be interchangeable. Externally the one difference between
>the early brackets on the BN1 & some BN2s and the later cars (BN4/6s) is the
>brass oiler screwed into the back to lubricate the bearing. The part no. for
>the Bracket, Commutator end, is 239266.
>
>However the part nos. cast onto the back of two brackets that I have are
>239013 (w/ oiler) and 239259 (w/out oiler). Sometimes with Lucas parts, these
>numbers are for the bare aluminum casting and not the part when
>complete with the
>terminals and brackets installed (riveted on).
>
>NOS brackets are not that hard to find, and in fact I have come up with 8 or
>9 over the years. You also may be able to weld the bracket until you can
>locate a replacement.
>
>You might want to check in your area to see if John Bullis, of Classic Auto
>Electric still lives in Woodinville, WA. John rebuilt a number of generators
>and starters for me and he is absolutely the best for the money, which was
>extremely reasonable.
>
>A generator done by him would be completely stripped and cleaned, the inside
>panted with Glyptol Paint, brand new field coils installed (The original Lucas
>coils are interchangeable with a Ford part no.) new bearings installed, the
>armature serviced and tested and everything reassembled and even painted the
>correct Healey engine green, and all for $100! As far as I know, John
>has never
>had one of his rebuilds returned due to failure.
>
>E-mail me directly if you have more questions. Also I have a shop here in
>San Diego run by a Brit who also does outstanding work and may be able to help
>you with the parts.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Curt Arndt
>Carlsbad, CA
>'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
>
>In a message dated 6/18/03 10:05:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>bkrystad@drizzle.com writes:
>
><< I've got a decent generator on my BN2 that now has a broken bolt hole on
> the rear bracket ("commutator end", I guess), so I'm trying to track
> down a donor generator to get a replacement bracket off of.
>
> I'm used to parts for 100s being different from the 100-6s and 3000s.
> But Moss indicates that the same Lucas generator was used from late BN1
> to BN6, specifically "BN1 from C.E.223155, BN2, BN4, BN6". So this means
> I shouldn't be limiting my search to 100s parts cars or bins? Are they
> truly interchangeable across these models? Or is there a catch that will
> make later ones "not quite right" for swapping brackets?
>
> -Byron Krystad
> Seattle, WA >>
>
--
John Harper
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 22:24:16 +0100
Subject: Re: Finding a Car
Sorry but your car is not on the UK 100 Register
All the best
>
>A friend of mine in Ann Arbor has been on a quest to find a BN1 his Dad
>brought back from France in 1955 and sold soon afterwards. He's made a
>lot of contacts, checked the Registry, etc., to no avail. I told him
>I'd ask the e-mail group if anyone knows about the car and think with
>him about an ad in Hemmings, etc. Anyway, here's his e-mail to me that
>I'll pass along:
>
>"My dad's Healey was purchased in 1955 in Paris, France. It was shipped
>back to the USA in October 1955 and he sold it around Thanksgiving time
>1955, in Kansas City, MO. The VIN is #BN1-L-226657."
>
>Any help would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks.
--
John Harper
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 17:38:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Walnut veneer
That sounds like Envirotex Lite, which is what I used on my BJ8 dash. It's
good stuff. If that's what you are looking for, perhaps you can get a lead
here:
http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envlite.htm
The company is out of Fields Landing, CA but I found some in the Atlanta area
at one of their distributors.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Tlfelts@aol.com
To: pryner@interfold.com ; lonejacklarry@kcweb.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 7:27 AM
Subject: Re: Walnut veneer
In a message dated 6/18/03 11:41:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
pryner@interfold.com writes:
<< I did a Healey many
years ago and used a pour over plastic coating >>
I've been looking for some of this stuff and haven't been able to find any.
Any idea wher to get it?
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 18:11:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Finding a Car
I bet that if the Missouri DMV was contacted about this car, they would say
they don't keep records for that far back, or if they do, they won't provide
any names/addresses to anyone not associated with the law, or insurance
companies, and they won't make the effort to contact them for permission,
either.
Come on, Folks! Even if you don't care about the history or future of your
Healey, contribute something useful to the community and add your car to a
registry for the benefit of some future owner. Let's be optimistic that the
interest in Healeys will survive all of us and that someday somebody will be
grateful that you bothered to document your car.
(pant, pant)
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry (http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8quest.html)
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Joel Seguine
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 12:44 PM
Subject: Finding a Car
Hi Healey People,
A friend of mine in Ann Arbor has been on a quest to find a BN1 his Dad
brought back from France in 1955 and sold soon afterwards. He's made a
lot of contacts, checked the Registry, etc., to no avail. I told him
I'd ask the e-mail group if anyone knows about the car and think with
him about an ad in Hemmings, etc. Anyway, here's his e-mail to me that
I'll pass along:
"My dad's Healey was purchased in 1955 in Paris, France. It was shipped
back to the USA in October 1955 and he sold it around Thanksgiving time
1955, in Kansas City, MO. The VIN is #BN1-L-226657."
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
--
Joel Seguine
Ann Arbor, MI
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 18:56:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Finding a Car
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 18:57:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Finding a Car
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 19:32:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Finding a Car
Ed Adams
BN1L 227550
100 Registry
>Hi Healey People,
>
>A friend of mine in Ann Arbor has been on a quest to find a BN1 his Dad
>brought back from France in 1955 and sold soon afterwards. He's made a
>lot of contacts, checked the Registry, etc., to no avail.
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 19:38:14 EDT
Subject: Re: are (most) all generators the same?
Since Bryon wants to use the bracket off of a a BN4 or 6 there should not be
a problem since first off, the part numbers for the generators are the same
i.e. 22483A for '55 100s and 222483B for '56 100s.
The generator number for a BN4/6 is listed as 22483B/D for '57-'59 100-6s.
When I cross reference both the 22483A and the 22483B/D generators in my
Lucas master Catalog, I find that both the Armature (239428) and the End
Bracket
(239266) for these two generators have the same part numbers. Also the Bearing
or Bushing part number is identical (239263).
So bottom line, if the armatures are identical then they will be all the same
length and it won't matter that one end bracket is slightly shorter than the
other. Plus remember that starting with the BN2s I believe, the generator
lost its cover band and the end bracket changed to the type with the longer
bearing without the oiler, however all the part numbers remained identical.
I have seen plenty of cars over the years that have had their end brackets
switched around, so I don't believe that it is a problem.
Additionally since I have two loose end brackets of each type I measured the
inside depth of the bearing and there is only a 1/8 inch difference between
the two. However the Bushings that are pressed in are the same length.
I can see where you are coming from but I don't think that the slightly
longer bearing housing length on the later end bracket equated to a longer
armature
length. So bottom line they should all be interchangeable. Let me know what
you think of my logic.
Cheers,
Curt
In a message dated 6/19/03 2:20:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
AH@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< Dear Curt
My information might be wrong but it does not come to the same
conclusion. The rear bearing is longer on the later bracket so you might
be able to fit a later bracket to an early armature but not I believe
the other way around. Mind you I am only going by the published
information. I have not tried these 'mixed' situations myself. Maybe in
practice one can get away with it?
All the best >>
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 19:24:33 -0400
Subject: Re: oil drain
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Turney, John" <John.Turney@shawgrp.com>
To: <rdavies1@cox.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 4:27 PM
Subject: RE: oil drain
> Ron,
>
> I can't think of one. I took mine off to fit the Denis Welch aluminum
sump and everything seems fine.
>
> These tubes do "just unscrew", and on mine, it was pretty straightforward
removing the one and shortening the other. When shortening the pickup tube,
be sure to cut new slots in the end like the original ones.
>
> I changed my oil last weekend and noticed one of my fins came in contact
with something, but no damage, except to the paint and a slight deformation
to the fin.
>
> Somone mentioned baffles. On Denis' sump, it's steel and bolts in.
>
> John, BN4 (w/3000 eng)
> ***********************************
> Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 12:46:25 -0700
> From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
> Subject: oil drain
>
> Can anyone think of any negative results by removing the oil drain on the
> rear main of a 67 BJ8?
> That's the 3/4 inch tube that drops down into the very back of the
sump....
> Thx,
> Ron
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 10:15:14 +1000
Subject: RE: Healey Abbott Owners?
Interesting to see this important memorbilia come up for sale. I do have a
sales brochure for an Abbott that is rather nice.
REgards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Reid Trummel [mailto:ah_magazine@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 4:08 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey Abbott Owners?
Any listers own a "Healey Abbott"? See:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3613165115
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 20:19:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Finding a Car
Sorry, I didn't have an entry for the car in my little list...now I do, since
I try to record any cars known to have existed.
John Harper has responded and Ed Adams monitors the list, so should respond
if he has anything.
Your only other hope is to email/contact Bill Wood, who maintains the AHCA
100 Registry...(I don't think he is currently monitoring the mailing list and
he
generally doesn't respond to what he considers frivolous inquiries).
<A HREF="healeybill@worldnet.att.net">healeybill@worldnet.att.net</A>
Bill Wood
PO Box 448
Egremont, MA 01258
(413) 528-3919
Regards.
Steve Mickelson
Trying to help the Healey Hundred Registries
In a message dated 6/19/2003 9:46:24 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jseguine@umich.edu writes:
> Hi Healey People,
>
> A friend of mine in Ann Arbor has been on a quest to find a BN1 his Dad
> brought back from France in 1955 and sold soon afterwards. He's made a
> lot of contacts, checked the Registry, etc., to no avail. I told him
> I'd ask the e-mail group if anyone knows about the car and think with
> him about an ad in Hemmings, etc. Anyway, here's his e-mail to me that
> I'll pass along:
>
> "My dad's Healey was purchased in 1955 in Paris, France. It was shipped
> back to the USA in October 1955 and he sold it around Thanksgiving time
> 1955, in Kansas City, MO. The VIN is #BN1-L-226657."
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
> --
> Joel Seguine
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From "Gary Black (Hexagon Transportation Consultants)"
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 18:02:16 -0700
Subject: Loose Keyway/Damper
I had the same problem with my race car (BN7). Checking revealed that the
damper keyway was fine, and the crank keyway was enlarged. The solution was
to pull the crank and have the nose "redone" with new metal welded on and a
new keyway cut. A big pain, but now it is tight.
Gary K. Black
HEXAGON TRANSPORTATION CONSULTANTS, INC.
40 S. Market Street, Suite 600
San Jose, CA 95113
Tel: 408-971-6100
Fax: 408-971-6102
www.hextrans.com
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 21:12:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Abbott Owners?
Bob D.
Quinn, Patrick wrote:
>Hi Reid
>
>Interesting to see this important memorbilia come up for sale. I do have a
>sales brochure for an Abbott that is rather nice.
>
>REgards
>
>Patrick Quinn
>Sydney, Australia
>
>1947 Healey Duncan
>1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Reid Trummel [mailto:ah_magazine@hotmail.com]
>Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 4:08 AM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Healey Abbott Owners?
>
>
>Any listers own a "Healey Abbott"? See:
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3613165115
>
>Reid Trummel
>Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
>http://www.healey.org
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 21:16:14 EDT
Subject: "On the Road to Conclave" report
BTW, Eric Grunden of "Absolutely British" in Ontario, CA. is sponsoring the
"Long Distance Driver" award which will be presented on Monday, June 30 to the
Registrant(s) who have put on the most miles on the way to Conclave.
We're up to about 215 registrations, and if you're thinking about coming you
can register onsite. For complete info go to:
<A
HREF="http://www.capitalhealeys.org/Conclave%202003/conclave2003.html";>http://www.capitalhealeys.org/Conclave%202003/conclave2003.html</A>
I look forward to seeing many of you next week at Conclave.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 11:34:36 +1000
Subject: RE: Healey Abbott Owners?
I have been a Healey and Austin-Healey owner for close on to thirty-five years.
Back then an Austin-Healey was just another old banger sports car and it was
possible to go into any number of BMC spares outlets and walk out with a AH100
cylinder head or laygear for next to no money. I bought quite a few clapped out
BN1s for around the Aus$500 and had a ball in them and then sold them on for
Aus$550.
It was a great time, as is now of course when its possible to buy the same BN1
(albeit restored) for Aus$40,000 plus. However I will say that it is, in lots
of ways quite sad that Austin-Healeys and the like have reached such escalated
prices.
I also bought quite a lot of important memorbilia such as brochures and the
like back in the 1970s. Each certainly wasn't worth very much money and to me
it's worth about the same. However to others each is worth silly money.
My comment about the Abbott emeorbilia was as to its importance not as to what
it's worth in money terms. I think it's sad that we view things for their worth
in money and not historical importance. To me an item's historical importance
is far more relevant than its value.
The BN3 cost me Aus$2,700 in 1974 and that included its cost, shipping from
England, insurance and import duty. I shudder to think of the silly money that
someone would pay for it today if it were for sale. What it's worth to me is
directly equivalent to its historical importance and the enjoyment I get out of
the car from driving to the hardware store on a Saturday morning.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Denton [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2003 2:12 PM
To: Quinn, Patrick
Cc: Reid Trummel; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Healey Abbott Owners?
If Ebay is any indication as to value, it's almost valueless. It went
for $10.00
Bob D.
Quinn, Patrick wrote:
>Hi Reid
>
>Interesting to see this important memorbilia come up for sale. I do have a
>sales brochure for an Abbott that is rather nice.
>
>REgards
>
>Patrick Quinn
>Sydney, Australia
>
>1947 Healey Duncan
>1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Reid Trummel [mailto:ah_magazine@hotmail.com]
>Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 4:08 AM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Healey Abbott Owners?
>
>
>Any listers own a "Healey Abbott"? See:
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3613165115
>
>Reid Trummel
>Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
>http://www.healey.org
>
>
>
>
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
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From "Pete Ryner" <pryner at interfold.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 19:54:45 -0600
Subject: RE: Walnut veneer
<< I did a Healey many
years ago and used a pour over plastic coating >>
I've been looking for some of this stuff and haven't been able to find any.
Any idea wher to get it?
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 21:55:52 EDT
Subject: Re: are (most) all generators the same?
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + $4.00 S H . SOLD over 1500 copies
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 21:57:24 -0400
Subject: RE: Finding a Car
Your efforts are truly commendable and I appreciate your past correspondence
with me. You really have a passion for
maintaining the BJ8 registry...something the other registries should/could
emulate.
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8 (leaving Tuesday for Conclave 2003)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 6:12 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Finding a Car
Those of us who have been on the list for a while know that this kind of
inquiry is pretty common. I get a bunch of these inquiries for BJ8s every
month, apart from the list. Wouldn't it be nice if there was a place where
the ownership history of the cars could be documented continuously, so that
former owners could make contact with later owners if desired, and vice
versa?
Wouldn't it be nice if so much of this information wasn't gone forever?
I bet that if the Missouri DMV was contacted about this car, they would say
they don't keep records for that far back, or if they do, they won't provide
any names/addresses to anyone not associated with the law, or insurance
companies, and they won't make the effort to contact them for permission,
either.
Come on, Folks! Even if you don't care about the history or future of your
Healey, contribute something useful to the community and add your car to a
registry for the benefit of some future owner. Let's be optimistic that the
interest in Healeys will survive all of us and that someday somebody will be
grateful that you bothered to document your car.
(pant, pant)
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry (http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8quest.html)
Havelock, NC USA
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 21:09:45 -0500
Subject: Works Rally Lights
I looked in the autox archives, but could not find anything on this subject. I
am interested in installing rally lights for the front of my bumperless 1957
BN4 rally car wanna be, and would like some opinions on what to buy. I'm
looking at a pair of Lucas Flame Throwers, and have not been able to locate an
installation kit State-side. If any of you have any experience with this
setup, I'd be very interested in hearing from you.
Much thanks,
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
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From "charles mitelhaus" <cdmitelhaus at hotmail.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 20:19:45 -0600
Subject: interesting Cobra Healey
Charles
65 BJ8
21A
22A
20A
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Healey LiteBar0021a.JPG]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Healey LiteBar0022a.JPG]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Healey LiteBar0020a.JPG]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
Blank Bkgrd.gif]
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From "Kufchak" <leemar at bendcable.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 19:27:49 -0700
Subject: re: Walnut Veneer
I am in the middle of refinishing the dash on my BJ8 and am using Envirotex
Lite, which most responders (on this list) to my previous query suggested.
Although I called the distributor in Northern California, who suggested Ace
Hardware, my local Ace Hardware didn't know anything about it. Since it does
such a good job of coating things, I thought that maybe my local craft store
might have it. Sure enough, a call to Michaels Craft Store in Bend, Oregon
told me that they have it, and at a very reasonable price.
If anyone is in the process of refinishing their dash, let me know and I'll
send back a reply with what I have learned. Actually, it's not difficult at
all, probably the hardest part is getting the dash out in the first place.
The refinishing is a snap, and the finish is gorgeous!!!!!!!!!!.
Thanks, Lee
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 22:32:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear brake assy fasteners
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From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 22:42:23 -0400
Subject: RE: Works Rally Lights
I mounted a pair of the Lucas 576 with the Cape
international brackets and am very happy...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Scott H.
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 10:10 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Works Rally Lights
Hi all,
I looked in the autox archives, but could not find anything on this subject.
I
am interested in installing rally lights for the front of my bumperless 1957
BN4 rally car wanna be, and would like some opinions on what to buy. I'm
looking at a pair of Lucas Flame Throwers, and have not been able to locate
an
installation kit State-side. If any of you have any experience with this
setup, I'd be very interested in hearing from you.
Much thanks,
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 19:46:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Healey Abbott Owners?
I suggest since money is not an issue for you, I would
happily offer you AUD 2,700 for your BN3.
Please note my generous offer considering the exchange
cost of the strengthening Aussie Dollar these days.
Best Regards,
Mr. Seigrist
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8 & hopefully '54 BN3
--- "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
wrote:
> Hi Bob
>
> I have been a Healey and Austin-Healey owner for
> close on to thirty-five years. Back then an
> Austin-Healey was just another old banger sports car
> and it was possible to go into any number of BMC
> spares outlets and walk out with a AH100 cylinder
> head or laygear for next to no money. I bought quite
> a few clapped out BN1s for around the Aus$500 and
> had a ball in them and then sold them on for
> Aus$550.
>
> It was a great time, as is now of course when its
> possible to buy the same BN1 (albeit restored) for
> Aus$40,000 plus. However I will say that it is, in
> lots of ways quite sad that Austin-Healeys and the
> like have reached such escalated prices.
>
> I also bought quite a lot of important memorbilia
> such as brochures and the like back in the 1970s.
> Each certainly wasn't worth very much money and to
> me it's worth about the same. However to others each
> is worth silly money.
>
> My comment about the Abbott emeorbilia was as to its
> importance not as to what it's worth in money terms.
> I think it's sad that we view things for their worth
> in money and not historical importance. To me an
> item's historical importance is far more relevant
> than its value.
>
> The BN3 cost me Aus$2,700 in 1974 and that included
> its cost, shipping from England, insurance and
> import duty. I shudder to think of the silly money
> that someone would pay for it today if it were for
> sale. What it's worth to me is directly equivalent
> to its historical importance and the enjoyment I get
> out of the car from driving to the hardware store on
> a Saturday morning.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Denton [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Friday, June 20, 2003 2:12 PM
> To: Quinn, Patrick
> Cc: Reid Trummel; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Healey Abbott Owners?
>
>
> If Ebay is any indication as to value, it's almost
> valueless. It went
> for $10.00
>
> Bob D.
>
> Quinn, Patrick wrote:
>
> >Hi Reid
> >
> >Interesting to see this important memorbilia come
> up for sale. I do have a sales brochure for an
> Abbott that is rather nice.
> >
> >REgards
> >
> >Patrick Quinn
> >Sydney, Australia
> >
> >1947 Healey Duncan
> >1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Reid Trummel [mailto:ah_magazine@hotmail.com]
> >Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 4:08 AM
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Healey Abbott Owners?
> >
> >
> >Any listers own a "Healey Abbott"? See:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3613165115
> >
> >Reid Trummel
> >Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
> >http://www.healey.org
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
**********************************************************************
> This message is intended for the addressee named and
> may contain
> privileged information or confidential information
> or both. If you
> are not the intended recipient please delete it and
> notify the sender.
>
**********************************************************************
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 23:01:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Works Rally Lights
<< If any of you have any experience with this
setup, I'd be very interested in hearing from you.
Much thanks,
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana >>
I've got the older Cape-international.com style
You can see them on my car at http://members.aol.com/wilko click the small
pic of the light on the bottom of the homepage for a detail page. The newer
style bracket has a bottom plate likethge works team that keeps it more ridgid.
Rick
San Diego
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 20:06:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Works Rally Lights
Cape international sells bolt on fog light mounts for
bumperless rally healeys. It's a very elegant
solution that includes a tow eye in the set up.
www.cape-international.com
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I looked in the autox archives, but could not find
> anything on this subject. I
> am interested in installing rally lights for the
> front of my bumperless 1957
> BN4 rally car wanna be, and would like some opinions
> on what to buy. I'm
> looking at a pair of Lucas Flame Throwers, and have
> not been able to locate an
> installation kit State-side. If any of you have any
> experience with this
> setup, I'd be very interested in hearing from you.
>
> Much thanks,
>
> Scott Helms
> Northern Indiana
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 20:20:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Need used spare WW in LA or SF
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 00:13:13 EDT
Subject: Fwd: "On the Road to Conclave" report
Best--Michael Oritt
In a message dated 6/19/2003 11:18:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mybjate@earthlink.net writes:
> Smitty and Esther left yesterday. They were in Flagstaff last night and are
> in Amerillo tonight (I think). Shirley and I will not be there do to other
> comitments. We will be with you in spirit(s). Have a great time.
> Jim Albeck
> Agoura, CA
Return-Path: <mybjate@earthlink.net>
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20:18:33 -0700
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 20:07:41 -0700
Subject: Re: "On the Road to Conclave" report
From: James Albeck <mybjate@earthlink.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BB17C88D.1811%mybjate@earthlink.net>
In-Reply-To: <151.207c099b.2c23ba5e@aol.com>
Mime-version: 1.0
X-Mailer: Unknown (No Version)
on 6/19/03 6:16 PM, Awgertoo@aol.com at Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> I received a call today from John Trifari. He and Steve Cloyes, both of the
> Golden Gate Club, left California in their Healeys on Tuesday and this
> afternoon were passing through Pueblo, CO. on the road to Conclave. They are
> expected to arrive in Tyson's Corner, VA. on Wednesday. I wish I were with
> them....
>
> BTW, Eric Grunden of "Absolutely British" in Ontario, CA. is sponsoring the
> "Long Distance Driver" award which will be presented on Monday, June 30 to the
> Registrant(s) who have put on the most miles on the way to Conclave.
>
> We're up to about 215 registrations, and if you're thinking about coming you
> can register onsite. For complete info go to:
>
> <A
Michael,
Smitty and Esther left yesterday. They were in Flagstaff last night and are
in Amerillo tonight (I think). Shirley and I will not be there do to other
comitments. We will be with you in spirit(s). Have a great time.
Jim Albeck
Agoura, CA
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 17:48:41 +1000
Subject: Oh Dear!
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 04:58:23 -0700
Subject: humor
Fred
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 05:07:29 -0700
Subject: wire wheels
Is there a way to determine between original or after market spoke wire
wheels ?
Fred
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 08:27:57 -0400
Subject: Re: humor
O.K. -- did you hear about the lady who fell through a Healey grille and
strained herself?
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From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 06:46:24 -0600
Subject: re: Walnut veneer
I have used Wood River Veneer (Russ Bork - 800-875-7084, Idaho, USA) for
veneers I use in making cedar strip sea kayaks (another hobby/slash
business). (local to me) I once talked to him about veneer for my dash
(before I saw how warped is was when I took it off and decided to get a new
one). I believe if you told him you wanted something book-matched and the
thickness of the walnut veneer he could find anything.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From "Frakes, Jim" <JimF at frakes-eng.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 07:52:44 -0500
Subject: John Trifari
Jim F.
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 00:43:52 +1000
Subject: Re: Healey Abbott Owners?
I reckon you got ripped off!!
I just read that update on Larry Varleys excellent 100 website with the 2002
rally yearbook - and it said:
"Ray Jorgensen's immaculate red 100S created an enormous amount of interest
in the early seventies. Joe found this car for sale in Sydney for $1900 in
1970 and convinced Ray it was a good buy..."
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/AHOC/yearbook2002.html
so - a 100/S sold for $A1,900 in 1970 - and the BN3 sold for $A2,700 in
1974.????
I'd just like to add that my BJ8 was sold in 1973 for $A3,500 - and that was
exactly the same price as a fuly optioned Toyota Celica - because thats what
Wally had to tell the bank the car loan was for - in order to buy the black
& white car - or else they wouldn't loan him the money....)
So - could Wally have bought a 100/S in 1970? Or the ex-Jones 100/S later -
or any of the others - yes he could For a bloke who owned 16 Healeys - you
think he possibly would have - if for no other reason than to 'complete the
collection'!
Did he? No. Would I swap two 100/S' for my BJ8 - based on early 1970
'exchange rates' - and accept that I'll have to give each 100/S owner back
$A150 each?
Nah - I'd prefer the one I've got thanks ........... and I think thats all
Patrick was trying to say.......
Every so often - the answer is: 'I don't know much about art - I just know
what I like......" This is one of those times I know exactly what you meant
Patrick.
But - I still think you should give Alan the opportunity to swap 1.4 100/S'
for the BN3. But the .4 should include the Vin number, history, title....
etc....
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2003 12:46 PM
Subject: RE: Healey Abbott Owners?
> Gidday Mr. Quinn -
>
> I suggest since money is not an issue for you, I would
> happily offer you AUD 2,700 for your BN3.
>
> Please note my generous offer considering the exchange
> cost of the strengthening Aussie Dollar these days.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Mr. Seigrist
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8 & hopefully '54 BN3
>
>
> --- "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
> wrote:
> > Hi Bob
><SNIP> The BN3 cost me Aus$2,700 in 1974 and that included
> > its cost, shipping from England, insurance and
> > import duty. I shudder to think of the silly money
> > that someone would pay for it today </snip>
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 11:35:12 -0400
Subject: Friday humor non Healey.
> > I was barely sitting down when I heard a voice from the other stall
> > saying:
> > "Hi, how are you?"
> >
> > I'm not the type to start a conversation in the men's restrooms at
> > a rest stop, but I don't know what got into me, so I answered, somewhat
> > embarrassedly: "Doin' Just Fine!"
> >
> > And the other guy says: "So what are you up to?"
> >
> > What kind of question is that? At that point, I'm thinking this
> > is too bizarre so I say:
> > "Uhhh I'm like you, just traveling east!"
> >
> > At this point I am just trying to get out as fast as I can when I
> > hear another question.
> >
> > Can I come over to your place later?
> >
> > Ok, this question is too weird but I figured I could just be polite
> > and end the conversation.
> >
> > I tell him, "Well, I have company over so today is a bad day for
> > me!"
> >
> > Then I hear the guy say nervously...
> >
> > "LISTEN, I'll have to call you back. There's a weirdo in the next
> > stall who keeps
> > answering all my questions!"
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 10:21:47 -0600
Subject: Re: humor
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2003 6:27 AM
Subject: Re: humor
> On Friday, June 20, 2003 07:58, Scheuble, Fred wrote:
> > Raining again :-( I need some Friday HUMOR.
>
> O.K. -- did you hear about the lady who fell through a Healey grille and
> strained herself?
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 13:15:34 EDT
Subject: Re: humor
> ...or the bouncer who wouldn't allow the customer in with out a tie..the
> guy
> goes back to his Healey and wraps his jumper cable around his neck. The
> bouncer takes one look and says " OK, but don't start anything"....
>
Or the one about the horse that goes into a bar and orders a beer.
The bartender draws one, serves it to the horse and says: "So why the long
face?"
Michael Oritt (ducking)
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 13:20:18 EDT
Subject: Re: humor
> ...or the bouncer who wouldn't allow the customer in with out a tie..the
> >guy
> >goes back to his Healey and wraps his jumper cable around his neck. The
> >bouncer takes one look and says " OK, but don't start anything"....
> >
>
Or the sandwich that walks into a bar and asks for a drink.
The bartender replies: "Sorry, we don't serve any food."
Michael
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 10:59:57 -0700
Subject: thought I heard everything
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From "charles mitelhaus" <cdmitelhaus at hotmail.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 12:16:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Friday humor non Healey.
Dear Clueless:
Dump him. You're a New York senator now. You don't need him.
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
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From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 12:42:50 -0600
Subject: Panel Fit - Engine in or out - Point of reference
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - coming along
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 16:26:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Friday humor non Healey.
CB
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 17:44:01 -0400
Subject: Dash fascia installation
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 15:24:28 -0700
Subject: Coker Tire
Terry Blubaugh
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 17:36:31 -0500
Subject: Re: humor
The manger says, "ask him what he will have"
The bartender goes back and asks the gorilla what he will have, the gorilla
says "I'll take a beer"
Getting somewhat flustered the bartender asks the manager what he should do.
The manager says "well get the gorilla a beer"
The bartender pours the gorilla a beer and the gorilla hands him a $20.
This is all totally outside the bartender's experience so he once again asks
his manager what to do. The manager says "well gorillas aren't very bright,
give him back two shiny quarters"
The bartender gives the gorilla his fifty cents and the gorilla settles into
his beer.
Starting to feel more comfortable the bartender decides to make small talk
with his hairy patron.
"you know, we don't get many gorillas in here"
The gorilla responds "well its no wonder, you charge $19.50 for a beer"
(the Healey part was added to stay on topic)
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 16:00:13 -0700
Subject: humor
Fred Scheuble wrote:
Raining again :-( I need some Friday humor.
Fred
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: FW: hockey
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 15:43:34 -0700
From: Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To:
Subject: hockey
Two boys are playing roller hockey in a Los Angeles City Park when one
of the boys is suddenly attacked by a crazed Rottweiler. Thinking
quickly the other boy takes his hockey stick, shoves it under the dog's
collar, twists it and breaks the dog's neck, saving his friend.
A reporter for the L.A. Times is standing by, sees the incident, and
rushes over to interview the boy. "Young Kings Fan Saves Friend From
Vicious Animal," he starts writing in his notebook.
"But I'm not a Kings fan," The little boy replies.
"Sorry but since we're in Los Angeles, I just assumed you were," says
the reporter and starts writing again. "Mighty Ducks Fan Rescues Friend
From Horrific Attack," he writes in his notebook".
"I'm not a Mighty Duck fan either," the boy says.
"Oh, I assumed everyone in Los Angeles was either for the Kings or
Mighty Ducks. What team do you root for," the reporter asked?
"I'm a Red Wing fan," the boy replies.
The reporter starts a new sheet in his notebook and writes: "Little
Bastard From Detroit Kills Beloved Family Pet."
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 19:08:40 -0400
Subject: RE: humor
The rope walks outside, stops a man passing on the street and
says, "Would you please tie a knot in me and fray one end?"
He walks back in and the bartender says, "Aren't you that rope
who was in here a few minutes ago?"
The rope replies, "No I'm a frayed knot."
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2003 1:16 PM
To: frogeye@swcp.com; healeys@n4vu.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: humor
In a message dated 6/20/2003 12:17:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
frogeye@swcp.com writes:
> ...or the bouncer who wouldn't allow the customer in with out a tie..the
> guy
> goes back to his Healey and wraps his jumper cable around his neck. The
> bouncer takes one look and says " OK, but don't start anything"....
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 19:37:38 EDT
Subject: Re: humor
A termite walks into a bar and asks "Is the bar tender here?"
A grasshopper walks into a bar and the bartender says, "Hey, you know we got
a drink named after you?"
And the grasshopper says, "You got a drink named Fred?"
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 18:15:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Coker Tire
I don't think that a 175/70R15 is available.
There are 175R-15 & 185/70R-15 available.
Try these suppliers;
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/tires.html
http://www.britishwirewheel.com/
Dave Russell
Terry Blubaugh wrote:
> Many good & bad comments have been posted on the auto lists that I read
> regarding tire suppliers. The chatter on tires became so inordinate
> last month, I deleted them all before reading. I now find that I need a
> simple tire answer . . . . does anyone know of a supplier/manufacturer
> of 175/70R15 tires and tubes, other than Coker Tire? I have no beef
> with Coker, but would like an alternative source and price. Thanks.
>
> Terry Blubaugh
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From "Diann Jones" <diann.lindsay at xtra.co.nz>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 12:38:48 +1200
Subject: Heater Box Clamps 27H 1174
What is the original placements of these clamps? or is it that people are
adding more to stop rattles?
All comments appreciated.
Regards
Diann
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 21:40:00 EDT
Subject: RE:humor
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 21:56:31 EDT
Subject: Re: RE:humor
<< Did ya hear about the cross-eyed seamstress?
Seems she couldn't mend straight!
How about the butcher who backed into his meat grinder?
Seems he got a little behind in his work!
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
TGIF >>
There was a woman who backed into a fan. Dissassed her.
Or the optician who fell into his lens grinding machine. He made a spectacle
of himself.
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 20:51:13 -0500
Subject: Re: RE:humor
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 22:01:54 EDT
Subject: Re: humor
> A priest a rabbi and a minister walk into a bar.
> The bartender says,
> "What is this, some kind of joke?"
>
> A termite walks into a bar and asks "Is the bar tender here?"
>
> A grasshopper walks into a bar and the bartender says, "Hey, you know we got
>
> a drink named after you?"
> And the grasshopper says, "You got a drink named Fred?"
>
Thank god it's almost Saturday!
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 21:08:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Heater Box Clamps 27H 1174
The heater out of my BJ8 is sitting on a shelf and has 2 clips on the front
and 1 on each side toward both back corners. A total of 4 clips. This
item has not been touched since being removed out of the car.
Hope this helps.
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 12:38 PM 6/21/2003 +1200, you wrote:
>Listers I'd appreciate some help here.
>What's original for BJ7's and BJ8's - with the clips that hold the Heater Box
>panels together under the dash - the service parts manual says three used.
>Yet I have seen lots of photos showing two clamps used on the front of the
>box, which would mean that more than three are being used.
>
>What is the original placements of these clamps? or is it that people are
>adding more to stop rattles?
>
>All comments appreciated.
>Regards
>Diann
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 19:08:48 -0700
Subject: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 21:19:41 -0500
Subject: Humor
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 22:37:51 EDT
Subject: Re: humor
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 22:44:14 -0400
Subject: Re: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
Sounds like the pump may not be getting a prime. Did you pack the gears with
petrolatum or something simiilar? It may be necessary to do so.
--
John Miller
I am looking for a honest man.
-- Diogenes the Cynic
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 22:43:58 -0400
Subject: RE: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
Take another look at that oil pressure valve; it may not be seated
correctly. If all else fails try installing the old setup to see if you
have pressure.
One trick, when you are working with an oil pump is to pack it full of
Vaseline before re installing it. Helps it prime.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Davies
Sent: 20-Jun-03 10:09 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
In order to install a new aluminum sump I needed to shorten the oil pick
up
tube. I removed the old sump and disconnected the lower part of the oil
pump
by removing the four bolts at the bottom lower plate. Then on the bench
I
removed the three bolts holding on the gauze screen exposing the end of
the
tube. After shortening the pick up tube 1/4 inch I filed in the side
groves
back to original. I reassembled the oil pump in reverse order being
careful
to make sure the long gear/cog fit into the upper slot and the other
shorter
gear was flush and meshed. I re-bolted the bottom plate assembly, and
attached the new sump. I do not see how those parts could be
re-assembled
wrong. At the same time I replaced the high pressure valve and spring
(because I had been running 80lbs at start up until reaching operating
temp). I noticed that the old spring was about two turns shorter than
the
Moss replacement. Then I filled a new oil filter with oil and screwed it
on.
I put the proper amount of oil in the crankcase and started her up. No
oil
pressure. I checked the dip stick and it had dropped a half quart so I
added
that. I let the car run for 20 seconds and no oil pressure again. There
are
no leaks under the car. It seems inconceivable that my gauage could
co-incidentally stop working so I must assume something is wrong with
the
pump or the new overpressure valve?
Other than giving up and towing it to my mechanic, does anyone have any
suggestions? I wish it were at least raining here.
Thanks in advance...
Ron
67 BJ8
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 23:54:06 -0400
Subject: Re: RE:humor
CB
ps: The blonde that got fired from QC at the M&M factory - she rejected
all the 'W's'.
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From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 20:04:47 -0700
Subject: Trade?? heater box for console
I have a heater box, including controls for trade for a console. Late
BJ8, pictures on request. Anyone interested??
Jerry Rude
Prather CA
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From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 20:11:23 -0700
Subject: London trip - any healey stops recommended??
The wifey and I will be in London in the fall. Is there any Healey
sites/museums/interest to see there when we are over?? Also I'm in need
of a Derrington Steering Wheel, are there any shops where one might
purchase one from over there?? (Looking to save shipping and VAT taxes
when over there). I would love to visit Steve at the Northern Healey
Centre also, but its way too far.
Jerry Rude
Prather CA
BJ8
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 21:20:01 -0600
Subject: Re: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
The most likely cause is that the oil pump is now full of air instead of
oil & won't prime.
It's a little late now, but people sometimes pack the pump with grease
to fill the air spaces when assembling.
The next thing that you can do is pour about a half quart of oil down
the disconnected oil pressure gage line to fill the pump.
It's possible that if the car sits long enough with oil in the pan that
the oil will seep into the pump & fill it if this is the problem.
It is also possible that the relief valve plunger is not seating. Did
the new plunger go in like it might be sticking?
The last possibility is that there is an air leak in the pump suction
side.
I suggest not starting the engine again until it will show oil pressure
by turning over on the starter.
Good luck,
Dave Russell
BN2
Ron Davies wrote:
> In order to install a new aluminum sump I needed to shorten the oil pick up
> tube. I removed the old sump and disconnected the lower part of the oil pump
> by removing the four bolts at the bottom lower plate. Then on the bench I
> removed the three bolts holding on the gauze screen exposing the end of the
> tube. After shortening the pick up tube 1/4 inch I filed in the side groves
> back to original. I reassembled the oil pump in reverse order being careful
> to make sure the long gear/cog fit into the upper slot and the other shorter
> gear was flush and meshed. I re-bolted the bottom plate assembly, and
> attached the new sump. I do not see how those parts could be re-assembled
> wrong. At the same time I replaced the high pressure valve and spring
> (because I had been running 80lbs at start up until reaching operating
> temp). I noticed that the old spring was about two turns shorter than the
> Moss replacement. Then I filled a new oil filter with oil and screwed it on.
> I put the proper amount of oil in the crankcase and started her up. No oil
> pressure. I checked the dip stick and it had dropped a half quart so I added
> that. I let the car run for 20 seconds and no oil pressure again. There are
> no leaks under the car. It seems inconceivable that my gauage could
> co-incidentally stop working so I must assume something is wrong with the
> pump or the new overpressure valve?
> Other than giving up and towing it to my mechanic, does anyone have any
> suggestions? I wish it were at least raining here.
> Thanks in advance...
> Ron
> 67 BJ8
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 23:20:06 EDT
Subject: Re: humor
" Every little helps "
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 23:42:10 EDT
Subject: Re: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 03:36:27 EDT
Subject: Re: London trip - any healey stops recommended??
<< Hello all,
The wifey and I will be in London in the fall. Is there any Healey
sites/museums/interest to see there when we are over?? Also I'm in need
of a Derrington Steering Wheel, are there any shops where one might
purchase one from over there?? (Looking to save shipping and VAT taxes
when over there). I would love to visit Steve at the Northern Healey
Centre also, but its way too far.
Jerry Rude
Prather CA
BJ8 >>
I was there in March. I had lots of help from the nice folks on this list,
and I'd been there before.
If you travel up to Stratford upon Avon, you'll pass the Heritage auto museum
in Gaydon. They Have an ex-works 3000 BN7 and the set of Monte Carlo winning
Minis (and a buttload of very cool british motoring history like the MG speed
record cars, etc. etc) On the way up there is a fun little auto museum with no
Healeys, but the town is very charming and the museum has a bunch of cool
Austin sevens and afew other notable cars and toy cars and pedal cars, etc.
That
is in Burton on the water.
I mention thoise because a trip through the Cotswolds is very quaint England
and worth the drive.
For your Derringtopn Wheel I'd say to go to Cape International but they are
very far out of the way.
SC Parts are in Sussex south/east of Gatwick.
I can give more specifics if you plan on leaving the city at all. I went for
about 10 days and spent too much time in the city and not enough in the
country. See Windsor Castle (it's on the way to Stonehenge), that sort of thing.
Rick
San Diego
Oh, If you go to Stratford, you are very close to Warwick, so You may as well
go to the Cape of Good Hope.
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 05:53:57 -0400
Subject: Turn signal switch
Thanks in advance
John Slade
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 07:12:22 EDT
Subject: CONCLAVE 2003 IN DC
We are up to about 215 registrations with the promise of a considerable
number of folks signing up "on-site". There are still rooms available at the
hotel, so if you've been sitting on the fence--jump off and attend! For
complete
information and a schedule go to:
<A
HREF="http://www.capitalhealeys.org/Conclave%202003/conclave2003.html";>http://www.capitalhealeys.org/Conclave%202003/conclave2003.html</A>
I look forward to seeing many "listers" next week--Eskimo Pi's at the car
show for all!
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 13:15:37 +0100
Subject: Re: Works Rally Lights
it depends how far you want to go. From the point of view of
authenticity, works cars of the period seldom ran more than two -
occasionally three additional lights either on a bar (badge bar) or on
brackets (easier when only running two). Centre bonnet flame throwers
are not (57/58/59) period but later cars did use them, but not on a BN4.
Suitable lights are the larger Lucas and would almost certainly been one
spot - as flamethrower - and a fog, both of which would have been in use
with main beam. It's advisable to have them turned off when the dips are
being used because they dazzle oncoming drivers. It is also true that
they were sometimes secured with a stay to the body work for use over
rougher terrain, to prevent vibration knocking them out of alignment and
to try and keep the light steady as the brackets don't keep the lights
that steady even over moderate roads.
Good brackets can be got from Cape or others or your local Healey
specialist may be able to build you brackets - if you have one! or you
can use the bumper brackets - if you have them.
Incidentally Healeys don't have to be bumperless to be rally
look-alikes. It depended very much on the individual rally regs as to
whether bumpers etc were run run, but probably the majority, and many of
the major rallies, specified that fitments such as bumpers stayed in
place. These were after all supposed to be trials of road cars. Those
regs mostly stayed in place until the begining of the sixties.
If you like I can let you have references to Healeys in various states
of "dress" - and "undress".
Hope that this helps,
Yours,
Peter Dzwig.
Scott H. wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I looked in the autox archives, but could not find anything on this subject. I
>am interested in installing rally lights for the front of my bumperless 1957
>BN4 rally car wanna be, and would like some opinions on what to buy. I'm
>looking at a pair of Lucas Flame Throwers, and have not been able to locate an
>installation kit State-side. If any of you have any experience with this
>setup, I'd be very interested in hearing from you.
>
>Much thanks,
>
>Scott Helms
>Northern Indiana
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 08:48:37 -0400
Subject: napa gold filter
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 10:30:49 EDT
Subject: Sorry for the daft question. And here's one on ODs.
Now the OD question is not so silly. I hope..............
Lets start off by saying that my OD worked fine until yesterday and that I've
adjusted NOTHING that could explain the change.
Then lets confirm that the gear box has plenty of clean oil in it; first
thing I checked. I use 30weight non-detergent.
Then lets add that the weather is hottish, by UK standards, but that I've not
gone more than10 miles in any recent trip.
So, if I never touch the OD switch I don't have a problem. But, once I've
used the OD, the problems can persist even when its switched off. (Problem
there
being that there is an apparent surge, as if the OD comes on/off and in so
doing slips the clutch.)
Worst sympton is that the OD comes on with a harsh jerk or a series of
judders as if it's slipping in and out. I think it sounds worse than it
is...ir,
hopefully, no damage being done.
I get the impression that the problem is pressure related, hence my comment
on temperature and also reinforced by it not happening within first few miles.
Any ideas out there?
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 10:30:29 -0400
Subject: Wheel cylinder parts needed
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4 #38789
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 09:09:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Sorry for the daft question. And here's one on ODs.
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 8:30 AM
Subject: Sorry for the daft question. And here's one on ODs.
> I asked you all about adjusting tappets with a Petronix fitted distributor
> the other day. What a fatuous question. I suppose I'm used to setting up
the
> points (when I had them) and the points and the timing in the same
session. So, I
> go myself in a twist, thinking about cams etcetc.
> Anyhow, now I've been politely put back on the tracks, I should manage to
do
> what I've done quite easily in the past.
>
> Now the OD question is not so silly. I hope..............
> Lets start off by saying that my OD worked fine until yesterday and that
I've
> adjusted NOTHING that could explain the change.
>
> Then lets confirm that the gear box has plenty of clean oil in it; first
> thing I checked. I use 30weight non-detergent.
> Then lets add that the weather is hottish, by UK standards, but that I've
not
> gone more than10 miles in any recent trip.
>
> So, if I never touch the OD switch I don't have a problem. But, once I've
> used the OD, the problems can persist even when its switched off. (Problem
there
> being that there is an apparent surge, as if the OD comes on/off and in so
> doing slips the clutch.)
> Worst sympton is that the OD comes on with a harsh jerk or a series of
> judders as if it's slipping in and out. I think it sounds worse than it
is...ir,
> hopefully, no damage being done.
>
> I get the impression that the problem is pressure related, hence my
comment
> on temperature and also reinforced by it not happening within first few mi
les.
>
> Any ideas out there?
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 08:11:53 -0700
Subject: RE: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
Ron . Do you have a gear oil punp ?? if so , did you take out the two
gears
?? if so , did you replace the key that drives the gear ?? pump will not
turn , NO PRESSURE Norman Nock
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 08:11:59 -0700
Subject: RE: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
Hi Ron,
Take another look at that oil pressure valve; it may not be seated
correctly. If all else fails try installing the old setup to see if you
have pressure.
One trick, when you are working with an oil pump is to pack it full of
Vaseline before re installing it. Helps it prime.
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 08:16:45 -0700
Subject: RE: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
Hi Ron,
The most likely cause is that the oil pump is now full of air instead of
oil & won't prime.
It's a little late now, but people sometimes pack the pump with grease
to fill the air spaces when assembling.
The next thing that you can do is pour about a half quart of oil down
the disconnected oil pressure gage line to fill the pump.
It's possible that if the car sits long enough with oil in the pan that
the oil will seep into the pump & fill it if this is the problem.
It is also possible that the relief valve plunger is not seating. Did
the new plunger go in like it might be sticking?
The last possibility is that there is an air leak in the pump suction
side.
I suggest not starting the engine again until it will show oil pressure
by turning over on the starter.
Good luck,
Dave Russell
BN2
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 11:46:47 -0400
Subject: Re: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
A little, but I wouldn't bet my bearings on it. Better you should examine the
oil lines going to the filter, then pump oil under pressure into whatever one
will prime the pump for you.
Too bad it's not like some American cars, where you can gain access to the top
of the oil pump shaft by removing the distributor.
Good luck, and let us know how it works out,
--
John
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 11:30:43 -0500
Subject: MASTER CYLINDER DIAMETERS
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 13:06:10 -0400
Subject: Re: MASTER CYLINDER DIAMETERS
Larger diameter master cylinders are usually associated with servos. The
larger the diameter, the more pedal effort (but less pedal travel) is
required for the same stopping power.
So the key question is, how strong are you, and how fade-resistant are your
pads? There's a reason the stock master cylinder was the size it was, and it
had to do with reasonable pedal effort. But the Cadillac wheel calipers
throw an unknown into the equation.
First thing I'd do is keep testing to ensure I had enough stopping power AND
pedal travel under all conditions. You may or may not find you need a servo.
Next (and maybe this should be first), I'd be real concerned about front/rear
balance, and a proportioning valve might be required. Most of us don't want
our rears locking up first.
Let us know...
--
John Miller
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 12:31:14 -0500
Subject: RE: MASTER CYLINDER DIAMETERS
-----Original Message-----
From: John Miller [mailto:healeys@n4vu.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 12:06 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: MASTER CYLINDER DIAMETERS
On Saturday, June 21, 2003 12:30, Brashear, Jack, N wrote:
> Can anyone tell me why there are differing brake master cylinder
> diameters?? What is the concept?? I added rear disk brakes to my BT7 Mk2
> (non-servo) during the car's almost complete restoration. These were
> adapted from a Cad ElDorado but I haven't been able to road test them
> except at pretty low speeds. I've had recommendations to use master
> cylinder diameters from the stock 5/8" thru 7/8" and I don't know how to
> follow up on this. I have a 7/8" Tilton on the car right now but I'm not
> at all sure if this is going to work well or not. This is not a race car
> but it will be driven fast on Ozarks mountain roads. Thanks for the help!!
Larger diameter master cylinders are usually associated with servos. The
larger the diameter, the more pedal effort (but less pedal travel) is
required for the same stopping power.
So the key question is, how strong are you, and how fade-resistant are your
pads? There's a reason the stock master cylinder was the size it was, and it
had to do with reasonable pedal effort. But the Cadillac wheel calipers
throw an unknown into the equation.
First thing I'd do is keep testing to ensure I had enough stopping power AND
pedal travel under all conditions. You may or may not find you need a servo.
Next (and maybe this should be first), I'd be real concerned about front/rear
balance, and a proportioning valve might be required. Most of us don't want
our rears locking up first.
Let us know...
--
John Miller
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 13:35:10 EDT
Subject: Second OD question today
If you saw my previous message, today, you may have decided like I, and one
respondent so far, that my OD problems are heat/pressure related.
With that in mind, I've removed the operating valve.....
the actual nut was a b****r to get off, but that was plainly down to some
PO's ham-fistedness. So, took out the spring, little piston and ball. Alright
so
far.
The valve itself did come out, but it was a struggle. Certainly wouldn't slip
out with a magnet. I used a bit of welding rod per the manual.
So, should it be a tight fit or should it slide in and out nice and freely?
I could polish it, but am not sure if that's a smart move....letting oil push
up past the valve, rather than pushing rod itself up.
Or, doesnt the valve itself move at all? Just the oil passing up and through
it?
(When I sy valve, I mean ther machined rod, +/- 2.5 in long, that slips down
under the ball.
The little relief hole did not appear to be blocked by the way, but its hard
to tell whilst blasting it with carb cleaner.
Simon.
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 10:28:21 -0700
Subject: RE: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
A little, but I wouldn't bet my bearings on it. Better you should examine
the
oil lines going to the filter, then pump oil under pressure into whatever
one
will prime the pump for you.
Too bad it's not like some American cars, where you can gain access to the
top
of the oil pump shaft by removing the distributor.
Good luck, and let us know how it works out,
--
John
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 13:39:07 -0400
Subject: Carpet problem.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 11:03:54 -0700
Subject: OT - Healey Humor
.
.
.
.
.
.
Notorious for scraping the rear end.
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 11:21:34 -0700
Subject: Re: OT - Healey Humor
John Loftus wrote:
>What does a Lap Dancer and Austin-Healey have in common?
>
>.
>.
>.
>.
>.
>.
>Notorious for scraping the rear end.
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From linwood rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 14:50:13 -0400
Subject: Rotisserie for 60 BT7
Lin Rose
60 BT7
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 15:08:12 -0400
Subject: ignition 100-M
Both of the steel tubings I have on order will take a standard ferule from a
1/8" gas compression line union. The nuts of these
unions, available universally, match the threads on the male ends of the
vacuum unit and manifold. I have the original nuts of both parts from my car
(the 1980's owner fortuitously left the nuts and sections of the tubing and
ferule intact). The period nuts engage the new union's ferule and male thread
side perfectly, to the end that you can replace your line with two-thirds of a
modern coupling if necessary. (Even if you have the old nuts, you have to get
two complete unions to get the ferules, which are not sold separately, at
least in my area. The three-piece union sells at our local plumbing supply for
about $2.25 each).
I would be happy to sell off the remainders from either the stainless or
carbon steel tubes at cost. The carbon will look totally authentic with a
bluer silver than the stainless steel's near-nickel color, but will obviously
rust. If any of you are interested, please
send an e-mail.
Allen Miller.
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 15:24:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Carpet problem.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 14:09:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Carpet problem.
Have you talked with Heritage about the problem. Maybe you have the
wrong carpet. Normally they are very helpful.
Dave Russell
James Lea wrote:
> Listers. I am finally finishing the carpet installation in the BT7. Where do
> the snaps go on the tunnel cover? No matter what I do the tunnel cover
> carpet does not want to fit properly. It has many folds and ridges that look
> terrible. It's Heritage Wooten Wool so I expected a better fit I guess
> unless there are secrets that I am not aware of. Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 16:16:06 -0400
Subject: Front drum brake adjusters needed
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
57 BN4 #38789
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From "Larry Dickstein" <lonejacklarry at kcweb.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 15:33:19 -0500
Subject: Re: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
Yes, you probably should. Just crack the nut a little and be prepared w/
some rags. When you've cranked the engine over a few times, the loosened
nut on the oil line on the back of the gauge should begin to drip (or gush
depending on how loose you got it).
My bet is that the oil pump needs to be primed. It's tough getting a pint
of 30 wt down that little tube but it still is easier than getting back at
the pump to pack it w/ vaseline.
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 14:09:30 -0700
Subject: RE: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
Here's how I made sure that a new engine's pump was primed:
undo the connection on the block where the small pipe goes to the oil
pressure gauge. Left hand side if I remember right. You may need to
remove the adapter piece if you don't have a small enough syringe to
add oil. You fill up the oil passages in the block pouring the oil
into the hole left there when you undo the pipe. I used a child's ear
syringe, but you have access to other tools. I remember putting quite
a bit of oil in, maybe 1/4 liter. I don't think it filled up and
overflowed; maybe I just got tired. Reinstall and tighten up the oil
gauge line connection, and then pull the spark plugs. Use starter
motor to turn over engine until you get the gauge to indicate some
pressure, then reinstall plugs and celebrate. I would be suspicious
of the new oil spring/pressure relief valve and do as Mike Salter
suggested.
-Roland
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 14:30:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: starter solenoid boot
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 14:25:02 -0700
Subject: RE: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
Ron . Do you have a gear oil punp ?? if so , did you take out the two
gears
?? if so , did you replace the key that drives the gear ?? pump will not
turn , NO PRESSURE Norman Nock
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 16:13:18 -0600
Subject: Re: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
It is possible for a tight valve, & yours appears to be very tight, to
stick open (not seated) which would give zero pressure. You could try
tapping the plunger in with a wooden dowel to make sure that it is
seated. If the valve is truly THAT tight I would work on getting it
freed up. Working it in-out by wedging a wooden handle into it & using
some solvent or penetrating oil. You can also sightly polish the OD with
400 sandpaper to remove any burrs. Sounds like the old valve was tight also.
You could have the wrong new valve. There are two types - one for the
fours & one for the sixes. The six valve should have the diameter of the
body reduced in diameter for a short distance back from the nose. The
valve body for the four is full diameter all of the way to the nose. I
only mention this because if the original valve had the reduced diameter
& the new one doesn't - There could be varnish buildup which is binding
the new (incorrect) valve. If this is the case you should get the
correct reduced body diameter valve.
Increasing the oil level by overfilling would not raise the pressure a
significant amount. Probably no more thah one quarter psi.
Best bet is to rig up a funnel & pour oil down the disconnected gage
line. It will be slow.
Dave Russell
Ron Davies wrote:
> Dave:
Snip
> However, even if it was sticking, it's an overpressure valve so
> wouldn't it just get too high of a pressure, not "0" pressure? What
> about seriously overfilling with oil (10-12qts) hoping for the "seep
> into the pump" theory, getting "some" pressure then draining out the
> excess oil? Any logic in that? Thx Ron
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From "C. Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 17:20:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Humor
How do you tell the most popular guy at a nudist colony? He's the one
carrying two cups of coffee and a dozen Krispy Kreme donuts.
Cheers...
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 18:00:39 -0500
Subject: Re: napa gold filter
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 18:07:23 -0500
Subject: Re: starter solenoid boot
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From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 19:24:42 -0400
Subject: humor
Answer: All of them.
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 17:16:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: hood striker pin brkt NLA?
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 21:17:32 -0400
Subject: Healey insurance appraisal
Peter Davis
100M
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 19:09:17 -0700
Subject: RE: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
Yes, bleeding the gauge is a good idea. Other listees have given you
the directions. Since the oil is under more than 40 psi, you don't
need to loosen the connection much.
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 19:24:35 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey insurance appraisal
Is there anybody in the local or national organizations or restoration book
authors who can make appraisals for stated value which are accepted by the
collector car insurance companies?
Peter Davis
100M
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From "Don Factor" <don.factor at spectrummg.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 23:02:24 -0400
Subject: My clutch
Any thoughts??? Pressure plate???throw out bearing ??? Get a longer adjustment
rod? (which I probably will do next unless someone has a better or simpler
solution.
Thanks for any input Regards DF (red lobster)
Any thou
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 23:21:40 EDT
Subject: Re: no oil pressure after installing new sump!!
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 21:33:07 -0600
Subject: Air in oil pressure gage line --- so what?
Pressure in a line is pressure period. It shouldn't make any difference
whether it is air pressure, oil pressure or a combination of the two. It
is true that air is compressible & oil is not but once the air is
compressed by the oil pressure there should be no difference. The air
will only delay the gage responses a bit & maybe cause unwanted gage
fluctuations.
In the case of Ron D's recent experience, how do we know that one of the
other remedies didn't work & that it just took a few more seconds of
cranking to build up pressure. I seriously doubt that the air in the
line was the problem. Someone set me straight.
Dave Russell
BN2
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 23:33:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Rotisserie for 60 BT7
If you have difficulty finding his information just let me know. I would
give it to you now but all my info is over at my shop.
Best regards, Gary
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 23:44:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey insurance appraisal
Good luck.
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 22:14:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey insurance appraisal
The would insure for $25000, no questions asked. When I wanted to raise
the value they wanted either receipts or an appraisal to show the
increased value. I sent a list of the receipts & no problems.
Dave Russell
BN2
GSFuqua1@aol.com wrote:
> I have used the same with Grundy Worldwide. No issues so far!
>
> Good luck.
>
> Gary Fuqua
> Branson, Missouri
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 21:16:01 -0700
Subject: Cleaning Foam Aircleaner Filters
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 23:37:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Cleaning Foam Aircleaner Filters
Dave Russell
BN2
John Soderling wrote:
> Hi all,
> I have Longflow aircleaner filters on my Healey, which use 1/2" thick foam as
> the filter material. What is the best way to clean foam filters? The back
> filter gets some oil in it from the breather pipe vented to the carb. Wash in
> gas? Water?
> Thanks.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
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From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 06:58:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Air in oil pressure gage line --- so what?
Dave Masucci
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 11:33 PM
Subject: Air in oil pressure gage line --- so what?
> OK -- will someone please explain how air in the gage line can result in
> no pressure reading.
>
> Pressure in a line is pressure period. It shouldn't make any difference
> whether it is air pressure, oil pressure or a combination of the two. It
> is true that air is compressible & oil is not but once the air is
> compressed by the oil pressure there should be no difference. The air
> will only delay the gage responses a bit & maybe cause unwanted gage
> fluctuations.
>
> In the case of Ron D's recent experience, how do we know that one of the
> other remedies didn't work & that it just took a few more seconds of
> cranking to build up pressure. I seriously doubt that the air in the
> line was the problem. Someone set me straight.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
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From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 07:41:07 EDT
Subject: Window Regulator
Any info will be appreciated, thanks.
John Stevens
'64 BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 08:00:53 -0400
Subject: 100 tach core required
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/ahx12.html
Does anyone out there have a case, face and needle for a 100/4 tach that
I can buy as a starting point?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 08:38:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Low Oil pressure, was no oil pressure after installing new
My concern---low oil pressure as compared to most Healeys.
1. upon starting, it takes a good 3 seconds before the needle even starts to
move. (during that time, there is a different engine sound that goes away
when the oil starts to flow)
2. the pressure then goes to 60--while cold.
3. stays that way till the engine reaches temp. (driving)
4. pressure (while driving) then goes to below 40 psi (38, as best I can
tell) and will not go over that
5. at hot idle (900 - 1200 rpms) psi is, at best 10 or less
I had one mechanic tell me it is OK-------I just can't believe it is high
enough.
Anyone care to offer thoughts?
TIA
Tom
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 08:57:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Low Oil pressure, was no oil pressure after installing new
> at hot idle (900 - 1200 rpms) psi is, at best 10 or less
> I had one mechanic tell me it is OK-------I just can't believe it is high
> enough.
Tom--
That sounds low to me--Was the mechanic who said it was okay the guy who
rebuilt the engine?
What weight oil are you using? I notice that with 10/40 (which I used this
winter and recently changed out) my oil pressure was about 10 lbs. less than
with 20/50, the weight generally recommended for our engines for summer use. I
generally have about 60-65 psi on start up and about 50-55 psi when the engine
is warmed up, with a minimum of 30 psi at idle.
Let's talk about it at Conclave--or better yet bring it up at the "Ask the
Experts" ("Stump the Chumps"?) Tech Session on Friday, June 27th. Several
famous Healey wrench-turners, including our very own Michael Salter, will be
present and happy to field your question.
Did I mention that Conclave begins this Thursday?
Best to all--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 06:11:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Window Regulator
It's easy - the crank peg channel is simply a snug fit
on the bottom of the window frame. You can tap it
forwards or backwards with a mallot or a brass punch
and it'll simply move out of the way.
Another way to remove it is to remove the chrome
finishing piece on top of the door, remove the window
crank gear limiter... and keep cranking until the peg
comes out of the channel.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- JohnbS7257@aol.com wrote:
> A dumb question, how do you disconnect the window
> regulator arm from the
> lower window channel? Do you have to completely
> remove the regulator from the door
> structure?
>
> Any info will be appreciated, thanks.
>
> John Stevens
> '64 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 06:15:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Low Oil pressure, was no oil pressure after installing new
Your oil pressure is ok but a little low on idle for
my taste... synthetics usually are too low weight (is
it 10/30?). You should be running 20W50 for best
pressure performance - this will keep higher pressure
at idle.
If this doesn't fix it... you need to check for a worn
rocker shaft or replace the oil pressure valve plunger
and spring.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Tlfelts@aol.com wrote:
> I recently had my engine completely re-done. I use
> synthetic oil and,
> believe it or not, no leaks (two years).
>
> My concern---low oil pressure as compared to most
> Healeys.
>
> 1. upon starting, it takes a good 3 seconds before
> the needle even starts to
> move. (during that time, there is a different engine
> sound that goes away
> when the oil starts to flow)
> 2. the pressure then goes to 60--while cold.
> 3. stays that way till the engine reaches temp.
> (driving)
> 4. pressure (while driving) then goes to below 40
> psi (38, as best I can
> tell) and will not go over that
> 5. at hot idle (900 - 1200 rpms) psi is, at best 10
> or less
>
> I had one mechanic tell me it is OK-------I just
> can't believe it is high
> enough.
>
> Anyone care to offer thoughts?
>
> TIA
> Tom
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 06:17:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Cleaning Foam Aircleaner Filters
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Soderling <jsoderling@ca.astound.net> wrote:
> Hi all,
> I have Longflow aircleaner filters on my Healey,
> which use 1/2" thick foam as
> the filter material. What is the best way to clean
> foam filters? The back
> filter gets some oil in it from the breather pipe
> vented to the carb. Wash in
> gas? Water?
> Thanks.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 06:42:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Humor
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: Humor
> Just sitin' here laughin' Here's mine...
>
> How do you tell the most popular guy at a nudist colony? He's the one
> carrying two cups of coffee and a dozen Krispy Kreme donuts.
>
> Cheers...
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 07:08:08 -0700
Subject: RE: Air in oil pressure gage line --- so what?
Air in the line will not prevent a reading....period. What it will do is
cause the needle to wobble with fluctuating pressure. Especially at lower
RPMs. The air will compress a bit at each pressure pulse of the oil, and
then spring back...well like a spring.
Dave Masucci
> OK -- will someone please explain how air in the gage line can result in
> no pressure reading.
>
>
> In the case of Ron D's recent experience, how do we know that one of the
> other remedies didn't work & that it just took a few more seconds of
> cranking to build up pressure. I seriously doubt that the air in the
> line was the problem. Someone set me straight.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 10:48:26 EDT
Subject: Overdrive woes
I've checked out the relief valve and it's not blocked and its moving per
spec...ball would hit the garage roof if allowed.
Reset the throttle switch, just in case. That's now just right.
Took it out for spin with tunnel cover off to test and in hope that it was
cured. Sadly not.
Here are some symptons:-
Won't go straight into OD when hit the switch.
Goes in jerkily and usually if/after increase in revs/speed.
Makes a nasty noise whilst it is in...rattly/rhythmic with engine speed.
Feels like its slipping in/out of OD or slipping on cluch.
Comes out of OD slowly, sometimes jerkily, always with sensation iof clutch
slipping.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 09:07:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: My clutch
You have the clutch release lever on backwards (the
lever attached between the clutch housing and the
adjusting rod). Flip it around and it will fix your
problem.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Don Factor <don.factor@spectrummg.com> wrote:
> I have a BN 1 recently restored ..engine was
> re-done. The car has a BN 2 transmission , and
> still has a BN 1 pressure plate.
> In order to shift (change gears) you have to push
> the petal all the way dowm, and really hold it
> there. Frequently the gears let you know they are
> not happy (grind). The same thing happens with
> downshifting 4th to 3rd, and to 2nd. At times I
> have to shut off the engine to get back into 1st and
> reverse. The adjustment rod is fully adjusted ( no
> turns left on threads)
>
> Any thoughts??? Pressure plate???throw out bearing
> ??? Get a longer adjustment rod? (which I probably
> will do next unless someone has a better or simpler
> solution.
> Thanks for any input Regards DF (red lobster)
>
> Any thou
>
**************************************************************************
>
**************************************************************************
> Confidentiality Notice: This email message,
> including any attachments, is for the sole use of
> the
> intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential
> and privileged information. Any unauthorized
> review, use, disclosure or distribution is
> prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient,
> please contact the sender by reply email and destroy
> all copies of the original message.
> <<<<GWIASIG 0.07>>>>
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 10:14:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Overdrive woes
The symptoms are a little vague to me, but of course the whole OD is a
little vague.. Try these links to some very good articals on OD
problems. I suspect that you could be having unidirectional clutch problems.
http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html
http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars/tech_talk/overdrive_frame.htm
http://www.ntahc.org./techtips/OVERDRIVE1.html
Dave Russell
BN2
Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote:
> Here are some symptons:-
>
> Won't go straight into OD when hit the switch.
> Goes in jerkily and usually if/after increase in revs/speed.
> Makes a nasty noise whilst it is in...rattly/rhythmic with engine speed.
> Feels like its slipping in/out of OD or slipping on cluch.
> Comes out of OD slowly, sometimes jerkily, always with sensation iof clutch
> slipping.
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 09:16:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Overdrive woes
Bob '62 BN7 & BT7 Tri-Carbs
----------
>From: Simonlachlan@aol.com
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Overdrive woes
>Date: Sun, Jun 22, 2003, 7:48 AM
>
> Further to my last two mails........
>
> I've checked out the relief valve and it's not blocked and its moving per
> spec...ball would hit the garage roof if allowed.
>
> Reset the throttle switch, just in case. That's now just right.
>
> Took it out for spin with tunnel cover off to test and in hope that it was
> cured. Sadly not.
>
> Here are some symptons:-
>
> Won't go straight into OD when hit the switch.
> Goes in jerkily and usually if/after increase in revs/speed.
> Makes a nasty noise whilst it is in...rattly/rhythmic with engine speed.
> Feels like its slipping in/out of OD or slipping on cluch.
> Comes out of OD slowly, sometimes jerkily, always with sensation iof clutch
> slipping.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 11:37:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Low Oil pressure, was no oil pressure after installing new
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 18:17:57 +0200
Subject: 100-6 on German Ebay
any thoughts on the 100-Six on the German Ebay Item # 2420266003 ? No
personal interest, still a lot to do with my own 100-Six. I don't need
another one, still a lot to do with restoring mine.
Best regards
Martin
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 11:58:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive woes
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From "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers at qwest.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 11:27:56 -0700
Subject: Humor - Late Entry, hope you find it worht it...
I had to get to church (I attend First Southern Baptist Church here in
Phoenix) to go on visitation for shut-ins and new members on a Monday
night not long ago. It was raining (rare in Phoenix), so traffic was
horrendous. I was also teamed with the pastor, so I didn't want to be
late - thus no time for dinner, or even a snack.
We set out at 6pm. None stop, saw several folks, some not home, but the
pastor is a real grind in his zeal to save souls. So, we made our last
stop at 8:45pm, to an old lady that is a shut in.
We entered her house, and she was already in her dressing gown, and had
her teeth out. But I thought we were at last where we would at least
get offered some store bought cookies, if not some home made pie. By
alas, she made an excuse due to the lateness, and I realized the kitchen
was closed down for the night! But she did want to talk to the pastor,
and she did seem lonely, so I bucked up and we sat down for a long chat.
But, what did I spy on the coffee table but a bowl of peanuts!
Salvation! So I took one. Glory, did that taste good. And then
another. So while the old lady and the pastor were visiting, I was
munching away. Well, 20 minutes later and time to leave, and I looked
down and the bowl of peanuts was empty!
Well, I was mortified, and the pastor was giving me the fish eye, and I
mumbled my apologies to the old lady. I told her, "I'll stop by, your
house is on the way home, and drop off a big bag of peanuts, there is a
store open on the way. To which she replied, in that odd way folks with
no teeth have, "Don't worry about that sonny, since I lost my teeth, I
just suck the chocolate off them anyway."
Clearly not a true story, but our previous pastor did tell that one from
the pulpit one Sunday. Boy, he was a funny guy...
Bob Walker
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 16:16:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Low Oil pressure, was no oil pressure after installing new
<<
That sounds low to me--Was the mechanic who said it was okay the guy who
rebuilt the engine? No---a different mechanic
What weight oil are you using? >> Mobil 1.
Looking forward to Conclave---I'll ask Mike and others there.
tom
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 15:42:41 -0700
Subject: Oil Pump Packing Conundrum
In other words, doesn't the oil drain out of the pump as well during an oil
change?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 15:47:31 -0700
Subject: Different Aluminum Sumps Recap-for archives
Ron's notes:
Steve:
I wanted to let you know that on my sump you do not need to remove the rear
drain pipe as long as you vigorously polish out the concavity at the rear of
the sump provided for the pipe. Reducing it a couple of mm works fine. It
"just" fits if you install it rear first then lift the front.
I shortened the small overpressure valve's overflow pipe an inch but I'm not
even sure that needed to be done.
Key point to learn from all of this is that you need to pack the pump gears
(with vasoline?) at reassembly to help with the priming. Disconnecting the
oil pressure line at the block and injecting oil is no fun.
Ron
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 19:23:57 EDT
Subject: Help!!
I was doing some final maintenance before driving to Washington for the
Conclave. When I took a test drive the new rotor I put in self-destructed
causing
the car to stop with a huge backfire. I put my old rotor (which had been
working fine) back in and got back home but there is very little power, some
backfiring, and it's running very hot which is unusual for this car.
All of the plugs are getting spark and the timing is correct.
I'm fearing the worst. Any advice would be most appreciated, especially if
it allowed me to make it to the Conclave.
Thanks,
Ned Paulsen
1960 BN7 (with a 62 tri-carb motor)
Rochester, NY
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 17:24:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil Pump Packing Conundrum
With a positive displacement pump such as used on the cars, the oil
cannot get out very well unless the pump is turned while the sump is
empty. I think if you let it sit long enough with the sump empty (two
hours to twenty days?) the oil would eventually drain out. Time would
depend upon oil viscosity & clearances in the pump.
Dave Russell
Steve Gerow wrote:
> Hello List,
> A question I have--if, when replacing the oil pump, it is necessary to prime
> it with grease before getting oil pressure, how does the new oil get in
> there when you do an oil change?
>
> In other words, doesn't the oil drain out of the pump as well during an oil
> change?
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 19:38:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Help!!
To dispell your worst fears, I'd suggest that you run a quick compression
check.
Marion Brantley
BT7-'60,'61
BJ8-'67
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 19:43:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Help!!
When you say backfire, do you mean through the carbs, or was it an "afterfire"
(out the exhaust)?
--
John Miller
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 16:40:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Help!!
Check you dwell and timing. It may have moved. Did the rotor come in
contact with the cap? Check cap also.
Bob
----------
>From: NPaul72464@aol.com
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Help!!
>Date: Sun, Jun 22, 2003, 4:23 PM
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was doing some final maintenance before driving to Washington for the
> Conclave. When I took a test drive the new rotor I put in self-destructed
causing
> the car to stop with a huge backfire. I put my old rotor (which had been
> working fine) back in and got back home but there is very little power, some
> backfiring, and it's running very hot which is unusual for this car.
>
> All of the plugs are getting spark and the timing is correct.
>
> I'm fearing the worst. Any advice would be most appreciated, especially if
> it allowed me to make it to the Conclave.
>
> Thanks,
> Ned Paulsen
> 1960 BN7 (with a 62 tri-carb motor)
> Rochester, NY
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 20:11:12 -0400
Subject: Re: 100-6 on German Ebay
----- Original Message -----
From: "Helga & Martin Heim" <hm.heim@t-online.de>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 12:17 PM
Subject: 100-6 on German Ebay
> Hi listers,
>
> any thoughts on the 100-Six on the German Ebay Item # 2420266003 ? No
> personal interest, still a lot to do with my own 100-Six. I don't need
> another one, still a lot to do with restoring mine.
>
> Best regards
>
> Martin
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 20:16:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Help!!
Thanks
Ned
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 20:19:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Help!!
I will do a compression check.
Ned
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 18:22:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Help!!
I don't know why the rotor destructed. Maybe it wasn't fully seated on
the shaft or is the wrong rotor. Are you sure that the timing is still
correct now? It is likely that the rotor caught on the inside of the
distributor cap & caused the distributor body to slightly rotate with
the rotor. This would retard the timing & cause the running problems you
are describing. The inside of the cap may be damaged also. No other
ideas at this time.
Dave Russell
BN2
NPaul72464@aol.com wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I was doing some final maintenance before driving to Washington for the
> Conclave. When I took a test drive the new rotor I put in self-destructed
>causing
> the car to stop with a huge backfire. I put my old rotor (which had been
> working fine) back in and got back home but there is very little power, some
> backfiring, and it's running very hot which is unusual for this car.
>
> All of the plugs are getting spark and the timing is correct.
>
> I'm fearing the worst. Any advice would be most appreciated, especially if
> it allowed me to make it to the Conclave.
>
> Thanks,
> Ned Paulsen
> 1960 BN7 (with a 62 tri-carb motor)
> Rochester, NY
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 20:45:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Help!!
Reason I asked was that a big exhaust boom could have -- depending on the type
of muffler -- dislodged a baffle, thus causing a partial exhaust obstruction,
causing overheating, while a big pressure wave on the intake side could have
-- albeit unlikely -- ruptured the vacuum advance diaphragm, causing a
retarded spark, resulting in overheating and loss of power.
As Marion mentioned, you'll want to do a compression check, both for peace of
mind and to avoid lost troubleshooting time. Then, the usual: mixture,
timing, etc.
Let us know...
--
John
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 21:07:28 -0400
Subject: RE: Help!!
I note that your car has a tri carb engine. Check the balance pipe on
the intake manifolds. If the engine backfired into the carbs it is very
possible that the short rubber hoses joining the balance pipe assembly
to the intake manifolds has become dislodged.
That will certainly mess things up and is pretty common on tri carb
setups.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
Sent: 22-Jun-03 8:22 PM
To: NPaul72464@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Help!!
Ned,
I don't know why the rotor destructed. Maybe it wasn't fully seated on
the shaft or is the wrong rotor. Are you sure that the timing is still
correct now? It is likely that the rotor caught on the inside of the
distributor cap & caused the distributor body to slightly rotate with
the rotor. This would retard the timing & cause the running problems you
are describing. The inside of the cap may be damaged also. No other
ideas at this time.
Dave Russell
BN2
NPaul72464@aol.com wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I was doing some final maintenance before driving to Washington for
the
> Conclave. When I took a test drive the new rotor I put in
self-destructed causing
> the car to stop with a huge backfire. I put my old rotor (which had
been
> working fine) back in and got back home but there is very little
power, some
> backfiring, and it's running very hot which is unusual for this car.
>
> All of the plugs are getting spark and the timing is correct.
>
> I'm fearing the worst. Any advice would be most appreciated,
especially if
> it allowed me to make it to the Conclave.
>
> Thanks,
> Ned Paulsen
> 1960 BN7 (with a 62 tri-carb motor)
> Rochester, NY
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 18:19:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Oil Pump Packing Conundrum
Once oil is worked through the system, it coats all
metal surfaces with a film - very similar to seasoning
a skillet. This film keeps the pump primed.
In addition the pump body itself will usually keep a
significant amount of oil in it for a long time
anyway.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
> Hello List,
> A question I have--if, when replacing the oil pump,
> it is necessary to prime
> it with grease before getting oil pressure, how does
> the new oil get in
> there when you do an oil change?
>
> In other words, doesn't the oil drain out of the
> pump as well during an oil
> change?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 18:29:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Help!!
I don't think you'll have to do a compression check
like some have suggested (no offense to those who
posted... but bad compression doesn't seem to be the
problem - a healey can run with pretty good power on
five cylinders) .
If your rotor self destructed, that means it probably
came in contact with the distributor cap. If it did
this, it probably cracked the distributor cap.
If the distributor cap is cracked, you can get arcing
inside the cap between two cylinders at the same time,
causing two cylinders to fire at the same time causing
your backfiring & creating a very low power situation.
Replace your distributor cap and rotor and see how
that goes. It can be IMPOSSIBLE to see the crack on
your distributor cap... so if you don't see a crack it
doesn't mean that one isn't actually there.
When you replace the cap and rotor, MAKE SURE THE CAP
IS FIRMLY SEATED ON THE DISTRIBUTOR, AND THE ROTOR
FIRMLY SEATED ALL THE WAY DOWN ON THE ROTOR CAM, so
you won't have this problem again. It is possible to
mount these things improperly and cause the damage you
describe....
Thankfully this should be a quick and easy fix. I
keep a spare cap and rotor in my healeys at all times.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- NPaul72464@aol.com wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I was doing some final maintenance before driving to
> Washington for the
> Conclave. When I took a test drive the new rotor I
> put in self-destructed causing
> the car to stop with a huge backfire. I put my old
> rotor (which had been
> working fine) back in and got back home but there is
> very little power, some
> backfiring, and it's running very hot which is
> unusual for this car.
>
> All of the plugs are getting spark and the timing is
> correct.
>
> I'm fearing the worst. Any advice would be most
> appreciated, especially if
> it allowed me to make it to the Conclave.
>
> Thanks,
> Ned Paulsen
> 1960 BN7 (with a 62 tri-carb motor)
> Rochester, NY
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 18:39:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Help!!
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: <NPaul72464@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 6:07 PM
Subject: RE: Help!!
> Hi Ned,
>
> I note that your car has a tri carb engine. Check the balance pipe on
> the intake manifolds. If the engine backfired into the carbs it is very
> possible that the short rubber hoses joining the balance pipe assembly
> to the intake manifolds has become dislodged.
> That will certainly mess things up and is pretty common on tri carb
> setups.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 18:43:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: One more thing Ned Re: Help!!
Aside from changing your rotor and cap, you should
check to see if one of your carb float chamber jets is
shut off (are you possibly using grose jets?).
I'm not that familiar with tuning a tricarb, but it
seems very likely to me if one of your three carbs is
not getting any fuel, you'll get the symptoms of no
power because two cylinders are running far too lean
and the other two running fairly lean - causing your
overheating problem (cars run hot when they are lean)
and causing your back firing from the fuel starved
cylinders.
Rapping a mallot on the float chambers may not work,
you'll have to take each float chamber lid off and see
if there's gas in there.
While you are at it, you should disconnect your gas
line from the carbs first and see how much gas is
pumping through the system? Is it a steady stream or
trickle? If trickle it's your gas pump or possibly a
clogged fuel filter. These things will cause the
symptoms you describe as well.
When diagnosing a faulty runing car... always chase
down gas first then ignition. If you establish that
gas is getting into the float chambers, then it is
your ignition.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- NPaul72464@aol.com wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I was doing some final maintenance before driving to
> Washington for the
> Conclave. When I took a test drive the new rotor I
> put in self-destructed causing
> the car to stop with a huge backfire. I put my old
> rotor (which had been
> working fine) back in and got back home but there is
> very little power, some
> backfiring, and it's running very hot which is
> unusual for this car.
>
> All of the plugs are getting spark and the timing is
> correct.
>
> I'm fearing the worst. Any advice would be most
> appreciated, especially if
> it allowed me to make it to the Conclave.
>
> Thanks,
> Ned Paulsen
> 1960 BN7 (with a 62 tri-carb motor)
> Rochester, NY
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 22:20:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Cleaning Foam Aircleaner Filters
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + $4.00 S H . SOLD over 1500 copies
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 07:57:20 -0400
Subject: Cross Member on frame replacement
Any ideas on the level of bracing that should be done for this operation??
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 08:51:16 -0400
Subject: wooden steering wheels
I followed up with the seller and verified that the full steering wheel boss
adapter ass'y is 33 L sterling (rought $50.00). They have a very nice 3-spoke
wheel in both the 16" for those of you more svelt than I, and a more humane
15". After twenty years of absence from Healeys, I need the spare room!
Allen Miller.
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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 09:08:01 EDT
Subject: Help
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles, LA.
BN4 Longbridge
BT7 rustbucket(for sale)
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From brouillette at attbi.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 13:18:47 +0000
Subject: Monza exhausts
The website is: http://www.impactparts.com/closeout1.htm
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 06:45:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Help
Same thing happened to my BJ8. I was able to replace the plug; I used some
JBWeld around the periphery of the plug and in the casting and tapped the
new plug--I used a brass one, couldn't find the "original"--with a 1/2" drive
breaker bar (turn the "pin" on the bar that goes into the socket to 90 deg. and
use like a hammer, gently tap the new plug in).
This fix has worked for 8,000 miles or so.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAWDAWGS@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 6:08 AM
Subject: Help
> My BN4 backfired and blew a casting plug out of the manifold. It was facing
> the firewall and only after I found it on the floor (and glimpsed a lick of
> flame) did I figure it out. SM
>
> Scott McPherson
> Lake Charles, LA.
> BN4 Longbridge
> BT7 rustbucket(for sale)
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 10:01:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Monza exhausts
On Mon, 23 Jun 2003 13:18:47 +0000 brouillette@attbi.com writes:
> Ok, guys, who has the fastest dialing fingers. I just found an
> outfit that is
> closing out some Monza exhausts and the big Healey exhaust (part #
> 88-1290)was
> listed. The thing is I just ordered mine ($150) and they only had
> one more
> left. Who's up, reading their email and needs an exhaust.
>
> The website is: http://www.impactparts.com/closeout1.htm
>
> Mike Brouillette
> 59 BT7
>
> >
________________________________________________________________
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From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 08:05:44 -0600
Subject: Aluminum door finishers - Again
I am sending this again as I got no replies last week. I need new aluminum
door finishers for my BJ8. Mine are pretty sad and with a new paint job I
can't bring myself to put them back in. Has anyone gotten expecially nice
ones that look original from any particular vendor?
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 07:04:13 -0700
Subject: golden beige BJ8 sighted
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From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 07:59:58 -0700
Subject: Door Hinge Pins
Brian
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From TimWardUK at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 11:45:21 EDT
Subject: Re: golden beige BJ8 sighted
Tim Ward
Warwick House
12 Mill Road
Kislingbury
Northants. NN7 4BB
Tel: 07855 388 751
www.TimWardAssociates.com
www.SixSigmaWorks.co.uk
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 09:32:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Cross Member on frame replacement
As an aside, if the bottom is gone, you may find that not only the
cross member needs replacing but that the inside faces of the main
frame members inside the cross member may need some repair too
(perforation that won't show up until you clean up the whole mess).
-Roland
On Mon, 23 Jun 2003 07:57:20 -0400, Rick Neves wrote:
::The bottom surface of the front cross member on my BN-2 is totally gone. I
::need to replace this part. I would guess that the frame should be supported to
::maintain alignment while I excise the piece.
::
::Any ideas on the level of bracing that should be done for this operation??
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From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 14:26:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Windshield Glass & Perspex Scratches
Reid Trummel wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Have a windshield (BT7) that needs some very light scratches removed, and
> wondered what products and techniques you may have successfully used for
> such situations.
>
> Also have a hardtop with the Perspex rear window (original) that has some
> scratches and would like to at least improve the overall clarity, and and
> wondered what products and techniques you mae have successfully used.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Reid Trummel
> Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
> http://www.healey.org
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 14:56:38 -0400
Subject: RE: 100 tach core required
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: 22-Jun-03 8:01 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 100 tach core required
In our continuing quest to complete the rebuilding of AHX 12 in time for
the Targa Newfoundland in September I need to get a special tachometer
made.
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/ahx12.html
Does anyone out there have a case, face and needle for a 100/4 tach that
I can buy as a starting point?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 15:21:44 EDT
Subject: vacuum adv. unit needed
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 15:34:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Cross Member on frame replacement
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 15:40:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Aluminum door finishers - Again
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 13:58:07 -0700
Subject: Rear shroud 4 sale MK1 2+2
I have a real nice rear shroud for a AH 3000, MK1 2+2 for sale. Also have a
full set of fenders and doors, trunk lids (2 with rust) and one hood, and a
front shroud (needs work). These are left over after my restoration of my
BN7, where I had purchased a full body just to get the front shroud. If any
one is interested, please contact me off the list, and I can provide more
information and pictures.
I'm in California just north of Santa Cruz.
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 19:40:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Aluminum door finishers - Again
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 10:05 AM
Subject: Aluminum door finishers - Again
> Greetings all..
>
> I am sending this again as I got no replies last week. I need new
aluminum
> door finishers for my BJ8. Mine are pretty sad and with a new paint job I
> can't bring myself to put them back in. Has anyone gotten expecially nice
> ones that look original from any particular vendor?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 20:39:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Help!! Revisited
Compression was high and the same on all the cylinders.
The rivet from the X-rotor had fallen into the distributor and lodged against
a mechanical advance spring. So I took that out. The weights were a bit
stuck so I loosened them up and they seem to work fine now.
I replaced the distributor cap and I think that helped too. All that was
left was a significant adjustment to the timing and it's running pretty well.
I'm going to chance the trip to Conclave.
Again, thanks for the advice.
Ned Paulsen
Rochester, NY
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 20:45:13 EDT
Subject: overdrive
what is the correct oil for transmission and overdrive unit. 20/50 weight was
recommended. my overdrive just stopped working today.
thanks mitch
1963 bj7
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 20:51:30 EDT
Subject: overdrive
what is the correct oil for transmission and overdrive. 20/50 was
recommended. my overdrive stopped working today after i put this in. any
suggestions.
thanks mitch
1963 bj7
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From Olin Kane <kanes at frontier.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 19:10:58 -0600
Subject: Re: overdrive
Olin Kane
BJ7
Durango, CO
At 08:51 PM 6/23/2003 -0400, APPRAISE11@aol.com wrote:
>hey everybody,
>
>what is the correct oil for transmission and overdrive. 20/50 was
>recommended. my overdrive stopped working today after i put this in. any
>suggestions.
>
>thanks mitch
>1963 bj7
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From "Kufchak" <leemar at bendcable.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 19:06:39 -0700
Subject: re: Healey insurance appraisal
So, I went to the internet and downloaded photos of various Austin Healeys for
sale by classic car dealers across the US that looked like mine. In other
words, I justified the price I told the insurance company mine was worth by
using what comparable cars are selling for. After all, isn't that what an
appraiser would do? I also wrote a long letter to the insurance company
saying in so many words that I don't really care what price they put on the
car, just be sure that I can replace it if it is destroyed/stolen/etc. I also
included detailed photos of the outside, engine, and boot areas. I told the
insurer that the appraiser told me that most insurance company underwriters
are not current on the values of these little gems and the insurance companys'
established prices are often 10 to 20 percent below what it would cost to
replace the car today.
So far, so good, as the insurance company has evidently not argued with my
established price. You might want to take a similar approach, as I don't
think we should have to pay the very high costs of having our cars appraised
when the selling prices are easily available today on the internet.
Good luck with your insurer, Lee
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 19:10:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 6 cyl Rear Hub stud question
I would like to replace the five studs on my rear hubs
for my BJ8 (they are worn out).
Is this a simple operation - can I whack the studs out
with a hammer and hammer the new ones in... or do I
have to use a press to get them out and get new ones
in?
Sorry if this is somewhere in the archives, but I ran
a search didn't find an answer on this question.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 21:46:19 -0500
Subject: Re: overdrive
The correct oil for your transmission is Penrite Gear Oil 30 or 40
depending on your climate.
If you would like a brochure packet please let me have your mailing address.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 08:45 PM 6/23/2003 EDT, you wrote:
>hey everybody,
>
>what is the correct oil for transmission and overdrive unit. 20/50 weight
was
>recommended. my overdrive just stopped working today.
>
>thanks mitch
>1963 bj7
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 19:59:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Oil Pump Packing Conundrum
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 18:19:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Blue One Hundred
<international_investor@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pump Packing Conundrum
Steve -
Once oil is worked through the system, it coats all
metal surfaces with a film - very similar to seasoning
a skillet. This film keeps the pump primed.
In addition the pump body itself will usually keep a
significant amount of oil in it for a long time
anyway.
Regards,
Alan
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 20:23:55 -0700
Subject: overdrive oil
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From sooch <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 00:17:24 -0400
Subject: A WinXP patch
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 22:26:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
50 weight at high temp has lower viscocity than 20
wieght cold. However, you do not want to use straight
50 weight in most car engines because if you overrev a
worn motor when it is cold may cause the main bearings
to spin. So 20W50 will protect a motor from spinning
a bearing at low temps, but will provide sufficient
viscocity to maintain oil pressure and keep those same
bearings protected when hot.
Tranny won't get as hot as the motor, but 20W50 is the
way to go. As it warms up, viscocity of 20W50 will
always decrease, it just won't decrease as rapidly as
straight 20W.
regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James Shope <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com> wrote:
> i may be laboring under a large misapprehension, but
> i have always thought
> that 20W/50 oil was a 20 weight oil with additives
> to make it act as if it was
> 50 weight under heat and pressure of engine
> conditions. would the transmission
> and overdrive get that hot that it would perform as
> if it was 50 weight? i
> need enlightened. healeymanjim 66bj8
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From "Diann Jones" <diann.lindsay at xtra.co.nz>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 19:08:06 +1200
Subject: Heater Box Clamps 27H 1174
It appears that the Service Parts Manual BJ7 & BJ8 may have an error in this
area - by stating 3 clips.
Four seems to be the amount that's used on the Heater Box.
Regards
Diann
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From Mark J Bradakis <mjb at autox.team.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 03:25:56 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Updated web pages
http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech
should be more useful than it has been lately, with most of the links now
working.
mjb.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 07:40:18 -0400
Subject: RE: 6 cyl Rear Hub stud question
You "can just whack the studs out
with a hammer and hammer the new ones in"
I like to use aprhs to install the new ones but that is just a personal
preference thing.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
Sent: 23-Jun-03 10:11 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 6 cyl Rear Hub stud question
Hi -
I would like to replace the five studs on my rear hubs
for my BJ8 (they are worn out).
Is this a simple operation - can I whack the studs out
with a hammer and hammer the new ones in... or do I
have to use a press to get them out and get new ones
in?
Sorry if this is somewhere in the archives, but I ran
a search didn't find an answer on this question.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 07:50:45 EDT
Subject: Re: overdrive
Was a long thread on this some time ago. There are mixed feelings. I have
used 30W non-detergent for 23 years in mine and it works beautifully.
The archives should have the pros/cons in it.
Tom
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 08:05:25 EDT
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
<< Tranny won't get as hot as the motor, but 20W50 is the
way to go >>
I was under the impression it was the detergent additives in the oil that
gave the problems in the OD operation. That is why I have always used 30w ND.
I
did try a 20/50 which i assume had detergent additives in it once and had
problems----
Regards
Tom
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 05:41:32 -0700
Subject: Re: 6 cyl Rear Hub stud question
> From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
> Reply-To: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
> Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 07:40:18 -0400
> To: "'Blue One Hundred'" <international_investor@yahoo.com>,
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: RE: 6 cyl Rear Hub stud question
>
> I like to use aprhs to install
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 23:21:21 +1000
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
I'd just like to expand on Tom's statement.
'Friction modified' engine oil is a problem in gearboxes - ie never use a
'friction modified' oil in the transmission - the 'syncromesh' requires
friction to work - ie the purpose of the 'syncro' is to slow the gear down
to enable it to 'mesh'. So friction modified engine oil isn't good in
gearboxes.
Some Extreme Pressure (EP) mineral (gear) oil has sulphur additives which
will attack brass syncros - which is why the factory said engine oil in
1954 - 1966. 'Modern' eg Synthetic gear oil doesn't have sulphur in it; non
EP gear oil shouldn't have sulphur in it; and BJ8's have steel syncros
anyway.
The 'detergent' issue is slightly different - there are two issues for
Healeys - the gearbox and the overdrive.
Detergent is put in engine oils to pick up the byproducts of combustion, and
carry them around in suspension in the engine oil, so they can be removed by
the engine oil filter. Firstly - there is no 'filter' (ie like an engine oil
filter - which filters to microns) to clean the oil in the
gearbox/overdrive - only a mesh strainer (which only really stops big lumps
of chipped gears) - so why would you want the solids suspended in the oil in
your overdrive - which is an aluminium casting - where they can grind
about?
But that won't make any major difference that you will notice when you are
driving the car (like if you use a friction modified oil - you'll noticably
grind the gears..... )
Secondly - a gearbox is like a box full of eggbeaters - so foaming, aeration
etc are always going to be a problem. And guess what? We have a hydraulic
overdrive using the same oil. Generally, non detergent oils will allow the
overdrive hydraulics to function as per specification - any hydraulic system
which is trying to compress air won't work very well. And - you'll also
notice that when you drive the car.
As Tom said - the rest of the issues are covered in substantial depth, in
the archives.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tlfelts@aol.com>
To: <international_investor@yahoo.com>; <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
> In a message dated 6/24/03 1:30:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
>
> << Tranny won't get as hot as the motor, but 20W50 is the
> way to go >>
>
> I was under the impression it was the detergent additives in the oil that
> gave the problems in the OD operation. That is why I have always used 30w
ND. I
> did try a 20/50 which i assume had detergent additives in it once and had
> problems----
>
> Regards
> Tom
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 09:15:33 -0400
Subject: Re: overdrive
Bill
1956 100M
On Mon, 23 Jun 2003 20:45:13 EDT APPRAISE11@aol.com writes:
> hey everybody,
>
> what is the correct oil for transmission and overdrive unit. 20/50
> weight was
> recommended. my overdrive just stopped working today.
>
> thanks mitch
> 1963 bj7
>
>
________________________________________________________________
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From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at attbi.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 08:03:59 -0700
Subject: Covering BJ7 rear seat pans
Esko
BJ7
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 11:08:00 -0400
Subject: RE: 6 cyl Rear Hub stud question
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Gerow [mailto:sgerow@singular.com]
Sent: 24-Jun-03 8:42 AM
To: Michael Salter; Healeys
Subject: Re: 6 cyl Rear Hub stud question
Mike,
What are "aprhs"?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
> Reply-To: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
> Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 07:40:18 -0400
> To: "'Blue One Hundred'" <international_investor@yahoo.com>,
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: RE: 6 cyl Rear Hub stud question
>
> I like to use aprhs to install
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 08:51:59 -0700
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
I'll add my 2c here ------ again.
The detergent vs non-detergent question in the gearbox/od has been
contentious all along. My view - use what the factory recommended, the same
oil as in the engine - a multi-viscosity, as seen in the workshop manual.
Today, that would be a 10/40 or 20/50 - most of us seem to be using the
latter, a bit better protection in hot weather - these cars are not winter
driven much anymore.
Personally, I believe that it's better to have any bits in suspension in the
oil so that they will drain with a change, rather than remaining to
accumulate in the cases over time, so long as one is diligent with the oil
changes - just my opinion.
As to the friction issue, that is why I now use Redline MTL in the
gearbox/od. This product (and there are others similar) is specifically
formulated by the manufacturer for use in transmissions where engine oil is
specified. In addition, it has friction enhancers added, which not only
gives a noticeable assist to the gearbox synchro rings, it also aids in the
operation of the cone clutch in the overdrive. This type of product will
noticeably improve the feel of a slightly 'iffy' gearbox, without
compromising the operation of the overdrive. I know of at least a couple of
dozen Healey owners who are using it with success.
Redline MT90 is the same product, (same friction enhancers), but a slightly
heavier weight for those that feel they want the extra protection in very
hot weather conditions.
So there, I've stirred the pot yet again!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 6:21 AM
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
Hi,
I'd just like to expand on Tom's statement.
'Friction modified' engine oil is a problem in gearboxes - ie never use a
'friction modified' oil in the transmission - the 'syncromesh' requires
friction to work - ie the purpose of the 'syncro' is to slow the gear down
to enable it to 'mesh'. So friction modified engine oil isn't good in
gearboxes.
Some Extreme Pressure (EP) mineral (gear) oil has sulphur additives which
will attack brass syncros - which is why the factory said engine oil in
1954 - 1966. 'Modern' eg Synthetic gear oil doesn't have sulphur in it; non
EP gear oil shouldn't have sulphur in it; and BJ8's have steel syncros
anyway.
The 'detergent' issue is slightly different - there are two issues for
Healeys - the gearbox and the overdrive.
Detergent is put in engine oils to pick up the byproducts of combustion, and
carry them around in suspension in the engine oil, so they can be removed by
the engine oil filter. Firstly - there is no 'filter' (ie like an engine oil
filter - which filters to microns) to clean the oil in the
gearbox/overdrive - only a mesh strainer (which only really stops big lumps
of chipped gears) - so why would you want the solids suspended in the oil in
your overdrive - which is an aluminium casting - where they can grind
about?
But that won't make any major difference that you will notice when you are
driving the car (like if you use a friction modified oil - you'll noticably
grind the gears..... )
Secondly - a gearbox is like a box full of eggbeaters - so foaming, aeration
etc are always going to be a problem. And guess what? We have a hydraulic
overdrive using the same oil. Generally, non detergent oils will allow the
overdrive hydraulics to function as per specification - any hydraulic system
which is trying to compress air won't work very well. And - you'll also
notice that when you drive the car.
As Tom said - the rest of the issues are covered in substantial depth, in
the archives.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tlfelts@aol.com>
To: <international_investor@yahoo.com>; <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
> In a message dated 6/24/03 1:30:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
>
> << Tranny won't get as hot as the motor, but 20W50 is the
> way to go >>
>
> I was under the impression it was the detergent additives in the oil that
> gave the problems in the OD operation. That is why I have always used 30w
ND. I
> did try a 20/50 which i assume had detergent additives in it once and had
> problems----
>
> Regards
> Tom
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 08:56:15 -0700
Subject: Re: 6 cyl Rear Hub stud question
Since you are installing new studs in a "old" hub I think they will
hammer in no problem. When I put new studs in new hubs I struggled with
the fit (maybe the hammer was just not big enough). Ended up putting the
studs in the freezer overnight and keeping them in a ziplock on ice
until ready to insert. Put the hub in the shop oven set on 200 degrees F
for 20 or 30 minutes. This made it easy to hammer them in and get a good
seat. I also recall using some bar stock as a punch to help avoid
damaging the hub from glancing blows.
Cheers,
John
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 12:03:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Overdrives
Back to the original problem outlined by Mitch at APPRAISE11. If I am
not mistaken, 20-50 is a detergent oil, which, with its various
additives, reduces friction somewhat (not desirable in a synchro
gearbox) and causes foaming. We have heard from some listers that this
oil has worked satisfactorily for them, but I would think that it is not
working as well as 30 ND would work. If the gearbox/OD had been
lubricated previously with non-detergent oil, in accordance with
manufacturers recommendations, and then this oil was replaced with
detergent oil without a thorough internal cleaning of the gearbox, I
would expect that the new oil would quickly start to loosen and pick up
quantities of crap which the non detergent oil had allowed to settle.
This crap would be carried over into the overdrive, and some would start
to clog the filters , eventually producing the symptoms reported when
there was enough accumulation.
As a first step. I would get the filters out of the bottom of the
overdrive and see if they are clogged with newly dislodged crap. If they
are not, I would dump the oil and recharge with 30 ND and see what transpires.
My 2"
John Slade
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 13:49:19 -0400
Subject: Times they are a-changin'
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 14:38:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Times they are a-changin'
Bob Johnson
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
To: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 1:49 PM
Subject: Times they are a-changin'
> Times must be rough. There's a perfectly acceptable-looking Mk. 1 on Ebay
at
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2420306572&cat
> egory=6023 with nary a bid!
>
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> Amateur Radio AI2Q
> http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 20:35:15 +0100
Subject: Re: Monza exhausts
Peter Dzwig
brouillette@attbi.com wrote:
>Ok, guys, who has the fastest dialing fingers. I just found an outfit that is
>closing out some Monza exhausts and the big Healey exhaust (part # 88-1290)was
>listed. The thing is I just ordered mine ($150) and they only had one more
>left. Who's up, reading their email and needs an exhaust.
>
>The website is: http://www.impactparts.com/closeout1.htm
>
>Mike Brouillette
>59 BT7
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 15:59:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Monza exhausts
Bill
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 22:19:50 +0200
Subject: Re: overdrive
Under the header 'lubrication' it states:
Quote
Fill the gearbox and the overdrive with the prescribed oil, for instance
Millers 'Transverse M' or equal. NEVER use a 20W/50 engine oil as the
various dopes will attack the bronze axial rings and bushes in the
overdrive.
Unquote.
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 16:32:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Monza exhausts
http://members.aol.com/wilko/Freeflow.html
Rick
San Diego
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 13:38:26 -0700
Subject: no oil pressure cont. now high pressure
The overpressure valve spring has been shortened by someone else two turns
and the rear of the valve itself has been crudely cut shorter. My mechanic
suggested cutting another turn out of the spring to see what happens since I
have a back up spring available. The engine has 63,000 original miles, new
head gasket, strong and equal compression readings. Car runs great but I'm
worried about blowing out the spin on filter with 85lbs pressure. Yes, the
pressures were like this before I converted to spin on filters. So far I've
just driven very carefully for the first 10 minutes but I'd like to get to
the bottom of this.
Q: What causes high oil pressures that drops as the oil gets hot? Is it
possible that my overpressure valve is just not working at all? Should I
take it out and start it up?
Suggestions on how to proceed?
Thanks in Advance everyone :-)
Ron
67 BJ8
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From Meemeb at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 17:27:34 EDT
Subject: BJ8 Distributor Timing
Has anyone followed this tech tip approach and if so, how would I change the
position of the receiving slot on my engine from the 20 minutes to 2 position
to a 5 minutes to 5 position? Or, is there another recommended approach to
insure that upon installing my distributor in my BJ8, the timing will be
correct?
Bernie
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 17:55:28 -0400
Subject: RE: overdrive
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jaap Aeckerlin
Sent: 24-Jun-03 4:20 PM
To: Tlfelts@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: overdrive
I just had my gearbox and overdrive overhauled by the official Laycock
de
Normanville overdrive workshop here in The Netherlands.
When picking up the gearbox I also got a sheet of paper with
instructions
about the mounting of the gearbox in the car.
Under the header 'lubrication' it states:
Quote
Fill the gearbox and the overdrive with the prescribed oil, for instance
Millers 'Transverse M' or equal. NEVER use a 20W/50 engine oil as the
various dopes will attack the bronze axial rings and bushes in the
overdrive.
Unquote.
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 08:20:48 +1000
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
No contention from me. I use Redline MT90. I've tried 4 other oils - Redline
is perfect for my use of my BJ8.
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/Austin_Healey_technical_articles.html
The only point of clarification is that MT90 is a synthetic gear oil,
designed for use in gearboxes & hydraulics, and designed for wet clutches
(like our overdrive has). Redline mTL or MT90 is not a multiweight engine
oil, and has no engine oil type detergents.... So Redline MTL or MT90 is not
actually
> the factory recommended, the same
> oil as in the engine ....
but the factory also fitted crossply tyres 40 years ago - modern radials
offer much better grip - just like modern lubricants offer better
lubrication!!
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 1:51 AM
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
> Gentlemen:
>
> I'll add my 2c here ------ again.
>
> The detergent vs non-detergent question in the gearbox/od has been
> contentious all along. My view - use what the factory recommended, the
same
> oil as in the engine - a multi-viscosity, as seen in the workshop manual.
> Today, that would be a 10/40 or 20/50 - most of us seem to be using the
> latter, a bit better protection in hot weather - these cars are not winter
> driven much anymore.
>
> Personally, I believe that it's better to have any bits in suspension in
the
> oil so that they will drain with a change, rather than remaining to
> accumulate in the cases over time, so long as one is diligent with the oil
> changes - just my opinion.
>
> As to the friction issue, that is why I now use Redline MTL in the
> gearbox/od. This product (and there are others similar) is specifically
> formulated by the manufacturer for use in transmissions where engine oil
is
> specified. In addition, it has friction enhancers added, which not only
> gives a noticeable assist to the gearbox synchro rings, it also aids in
the
> operation of the cone clutch in the overdrive. This type of product will
> noticeably improve the feel of a slightly 'iffy' gearbox, without
> compromising the operation of the overdrive. I know of at least a couple
of
> dozen Healey owners who are using it with success.
>
> Redline MT90 is the same product, (same friction enhancers), but a
slightly
> heavier weight for those that feel they want the extra protection in very
> hot weather conditions.
>
> So there, I've stirred the pot yet again!
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 6:21 AM
> Subject: Re: overdrive oil
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I'd just like to expand on Tom's statement.
>
> 'Friction modified' engine oil is a problem in gearboxes - ie never use a
> 'friction modified' oil in the transmission - the 'syncromesh' requires
> friction to work - ie the purpose of the 'syncro' is to slow the gear down
> to enable it to 'mesh'. So friction modified engine oil isn't good in
> gearboxes.
>
> Some Extreme Pressure (EP) mineral (gear) oil has sulphur additives which
> will attack brass syncros - which is why the factory said engine oil in
> 1954 - 1966. 'Modern' eg Synthetic gear oil doesn't have sulphur in it;
non
> EP gear oil shouldn't have sulphur in it; and BJ8's have steel syncros
> anyway.
>
> The 'detergent' issue is slightly different - there are two issues for
> Healeys - the gearbox and the overdrive.
>
> Detergent is put in engine oils to pick up the byproducts of combustion,
and
> carry them around in suspension in the engine oil, so they can be removed
by
> the engine oil filter. Firstly - there is no 'filter' (ie like an engine
oil
> filter - which filters to microns) to clean the oil in the
> gearbox/overdrive - only a mesh strainer (which only really stops big
lumps
> of chipped gears) - so why would you want the solids suspended in the oil
in
> your overdrive - which is an aluminium casting - where they can grind
> about?
>
> But that won't make any major difference that you will notice when you are
> driving the car (like if you use a friction modified oil - you'll
noticably
> grind the gears..... )
>
> Secondly - a gearbox is like a box full of eggbeaters - so foaming,
aeration
> etc are always going to be a problem. And guess what? We have a hydraulic
> overdrive using the same oil. Generally, non detergent oils will allow
the
> overdrive hydraulics to function as per specification - any hydraulic
system
> which is trying to compress air won't work very well. And - you'll also
> notice that when you drive the car.
>
> As Tom said - the rest of the issues are covered in substantial depth, in
> the archives.
>
> Chris
>
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Tlfelts@aol.com>
> To: <international_investor@yahoo.com>; <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 10:05 PM
> Subject: Re: overdrive oil
>
>
> > In a message dated 6/24/03 1:30:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
> >
> > << Tranny won't get as hot as the motor, but 20W50 is the
> > way to go >>
> >
> > I was under the impression it was the detergent additives in the oil
that
> > gave the problems in the OD operation. That is why I have always used
30w
> ND. I
> > did try a 20/50 which i assume had detergent additives in it once and
had
> > problems----
> >
> > Regards
> > Tom
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 18:17:09 -0400
Subject: RE: no oil pressure cont. now high pressure
This is starting to ring some bells in the old memory banks upstairs...
We had a 100 with similar problems years ago. It that case the engine
would develop over 100 psi cold on 20W-50 with the relief valve spring
removed!!! Some brilliant individual had fitted a plug in the hole where
the little drain pipe for the oil pressure relief valve should have been
fitted.
I'm wondering if you may have a similar problem because I think the same
thing would happen if you plugged the same hole in a 6 cylinder.
You could check pretty quickly by removing the relief valve and spring
and starting the engine for a few seconds. It should develop no
pressure.
As to your question of why the oil pressure drops when the oil warms up.
Decreasing viscosity..
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Davies
Sent: 24-Jun-03 4:38 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: no oil pressure cont. now high pressure
First I want to thank all the listers that helped me get my BJ8 through
the
"no oil pressure" event!
My mechanic was glad I learned a few lessons also :-)
He said he'd built dozens of engines and never had to bleed the oil
pressure
line. Yesteday I disconnected the oil pressure line from the back of the
gauge and ran the engine for a couple of minutes letting the oil flow
into
half a coffee can. That stopped the violently fluctiating readings. Then
I
drove 25 minutes to his shop, unhooked my gauge and hooked one of his
spares
up.
I got the same readings, which brings me to my current problem. I was
hoping that getting the sludge out of the old pan would solve my high
readings but it didn't.
With the new pan, K&H filter and fresh 10-30 oil I get the (same)
following
conditions.
1. cold engine at startup- 80lbs and 85lbs driving.
2. after driving for 7 minutes at 65-70mph it is 75lbs
3. at 10 minutes it has slowley dropped to 65lbs and the temp gauge is
reading a steady 160.
4. by 15 minutes it is 55lbs cruising and 22lbs at idle.
5. if I shut down then restart a warm engine, then kick the throttle up
to
3500 it goes to 60lbs and 40 at idle, then
if I shut down and let idle it drops to 22lbs.
The overpressure valve spring has been shortened by someone else two
turns
and the rear of the valve itself has been crudely cut shorter. My
mechanic
suggested cutting another turn out of the spring to see what happens
since I
have a back up spring available. The engine has 63,000 original miles,
new
head gasket, strong and equal compression readings. Car runs great but
I'm
worried about blowing out the spin on filter with 85lbs pressure. Yes,
the
pressures were like this before I converted to spin on filters. So far
I've
just driven very carefully for the first 10 minutes but I'd like to get
to
the bottom of this.
Q: What causes high oil pressures that drops as the oil gets hot? Is it
possible that my overpressure valve is just not working at all? Should
I
take it out and start it up?
Suggestions on how to proceed?
Thanks in Advance everyone :-)
Ron
67 BJ8
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From Austin Healey <ah2003conclave at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 15:23:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Picture for Conclave 2003 VA
For quick access, bookmark http://photos.yahoo.com/ah2003conclave Tell your
friends! CAAHC@yahoogroups.com http://www.team.net/ List Description AHCUSA
Austin-Healey Club USA
---------------------------------
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 17:25:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Monza exhausts
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 17:31:39 -0500
Subject: Re: no oil pressure cont. now high pressure
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 20:19:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Times they are a-changin'
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 17:29:07 -0700
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
Hope you don't mind me copying this to the list - it may be of some value to
others that are thinking about this stuff. Also, I would appreciate more
knowledgeable people correcting me if I'm wrong!
I'm looking at page Q1 in the 100-6 / 3000 Workshop Manual, P/N AKD 1179F
(issue 7), which is entitled 'Recommended Lubrication'. It lists the various
lubricant manufacturers' products, with the Engine and Gearbox listed
together. Most, but not all of the products shown are the then available
multigrade oils. No reference is made specifically to detergent or
non-detergent oils, but I would have to believe that most, if not all of
those oils are detergent - I can't believe that the factory would have
intended the use of a non-detergent oil in the engine for ordinary road use.
Quite frankly, I'm not altogether sure of where the ND thing came from in
the history of things, but if it works for people, I certainly wouldn't
suggest changing - one of those 'if it aint broke, don't fix it' deals. I
think that we all make too big a fuss over some of these things anyway - I
once heard Donald, when being assailed by a whole bunch of Healey 'gurus'
about which was the best oil, laugh and say 'use the cheapest and change it
often'! That really may be an accurate summation of the whole oil thing,
who knows!
Cheers, ------------------ Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
Hi Earl,
I've been off the list this week, and must have missed something.
Doesn't the factory manual recommend straight 30 weight NON detergent
for the trans & od??
I use Castrol 20w/50 for crankcase oil, but have always (30 years) used
the straight 30 wt for the tranny.
Terry
Earl Kagna wrote:
>Gentlemen:
>
>I'll add my 2c here ------ again.
>
>The detergent vs non-detergent question in the gearbox/od has been
>contentious all along. My view - use what the factory recommended, the
same
>oil as in the engine - a multi-viscosity, as seen in the workshop manual.
>Today, that would be a 10/40 or 20/50 - most of us seem to be using the
>latter, a bit better protection in hot weather - these cars are not winter
>driven much anymore.
>
>Personally, I believe that it's better to have any bits in suspension in
the
>oil so that they will drain with a change, rather than remaining to
>accumulate in the cases over time, so long as one is diligent with the oil
>changes - just my opinion.
>
>As to the friction issue, that is why I now use Redline MTL in the
>gearbox/od. This product (and there are others similar) is specifically
>formulated by the manufacturer for use in transmissions where engine oil is
>specified. In addition, it has friction enhancers added, which not only
>gives a noticeable assist to the gearbox synchro rings, it also aids in the
>operation of the cone clutch in the overdrive. This type of product will
>noticeably improve the feel of a slightly 'iffy' gearbox, without
>compromising the operation of the overdrive. I know of at least a couple
of
>dozen Healey owners who are using it with success.
>
>Redline MT90 is the same product, (same friction enhancers), but a slightly
>heavier weight for those that feel they want the extra protection in very
>hot weather conditions.
>
>So there, I've stirred the pot yet again!
>
>Earl Kagna
>Victoria, B. C. Canada
>'62 BT7 tri-carb
>'67 BJ8
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 6:21 AM
>Subject: Re: overdrive oil
>
>
>Hi,
>
>I'd just like to expand on Tom's statement.
>
>'Friction modified' engine oil is a problem in gearboxes - ie never use a
>'friction modified' oil in the transmission - the 'syncromesh' requires
>friction to work - ie the purpose of the 'syncro' is to slow the gear down
>to enable it to 'mesh'. So friction modified engine oil isn't good in
>gearboxes.
>
>Some Extreme Pressure (EP) mineral (gear) oil has sulphur additives which
>will attack brass syncros - which is why the factory said engine oil in
>1954 - 1966. 'Modern' eg Synthetic gear oil doesn't have sulphur in it; non
>EP gear oil shouldn't have sulphur in it; and BJ8's have steel syncros
>anyway.
>
>The 'detergent' issue is slightly different - there are two issues for
>Healeys - the gearbox and the overdrive.
>
>Detergent is put in engine oils to pick up the byproducts of combustion,
and
>carry them around in suspension in the engine oil, so they can be removed
by
>the engine oil filter. Firstly - there is no 'filter' (ie like an engine
oil
>filter - which filters to microns) to clean the oil in the
>gearbox/overdrive - only a mesh strainer (which only really stops big lumps
>of chipped gears) - so why would you want the solids suspended in the oil
in
>your overdrive - which is an aluminium casting - where they can grind
>about?
>
>But that won't make any major difference that you will notice when you are
>driving the car (like if you use a friction modified oil - you'll
noticably
>grind the gears..... )
>
>Secondly - a gearbox is like a box full of eggbeaters - so foaming,
aeration
>etc are always going to be a problem. And guess what? We have a hydraulic
>overdrive using the same oil. Generally, non detergent oils will allow the
>overdrive hydraulics to function as per specification - any hydraulic
system
>which is trying to compress air won't work very well. And - you'll also
>notice that when you drive the car.
>
>As Tom said - the rest of the issues are covered in substantial depth, in
>the archives.
>
>Chris
>
>______________________________________
>
>Chris Dimmock
>Sydney Australia
>
>http://www.myaustinhealey.com
>______________________________________
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Tlfelts@aol.com>
>To: <international_investor@yahoo.com>; <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>;
><healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 10:05 PM
>Subject: Re: overdrive oil
>
>
>
>
>>In a message dated 6/24/03 1:30:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>>international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
>>
>><< Tranny won't get as hot as the motor, but 20W50 is the
>> way to go >>
>>
>>I was under the impression it was the detergent additives in the oil that
>>gave the problems in the OD operation. That is why I have always used 30w
>>
>>
>ND. I
>
>
>>did try a 20/50 which i assume had detergent additives in it once and had
>>problems----
>>
>>Regards
>>Tom
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 17:38:57 -0700
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
Point taken. That is one of the distinct advantages of a synthetic oil in
cases like this - it mimicks a good multigrade in the properties that we
need - excellent cold flowability, while still protecting the machinery when
hot.
Until this moment, it had not occurred to me that it was, by design, a
non-detergent oil! If true, it should make the whole bunch of us, on either
side of the discussion, happy!
Cheers, (I really don't like stirring the pot) ----- Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
Hi Earl
No contention from me. I use Redline MT90. I've tried 4 other oils - Redline
is perfect for my use of my BJ8.
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/Austin_Healey_technical_articles.html
The only point of clarification is that MT90 is a synthetic gear oil,
designed for use in gearboxes & hydraulics, and designed for wet clutches
(like our overdrive has). Redline mTL or MT90 is not a multiweight engine
oil, and has no engine oil type detergents.... So Redline MTL or MT90 is not
actually
> the factory recommended, the same
> oil as in the engine ....
but the factory also fitted crossply tyres 40 years ago - modern radials
offer much better grip - just like modern lubricants offer better
lubrication!!
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 1:51 AM
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
> Gentlemen:
>
> I'll add my 2c here ------ again.
>
> The detergent vs non-detergent question in the gearbox/od has been
> contentious all along. My view - use what the factory recommended, the
same
> oil as in the engine - a multi-viscosity, as seen in the workshop manual.
> Today, that would be a 10/40 or 20/50 - most of us seem to be using the
> latter, a bit better protection in hot weather - these cars are not winter
> driven much anymore.
>
> Personally, I believe that it's better to have any bits in suspension in
the
> oil so that they will drain with a change, rather than remaining to
> accumulate in the cases over time, so long as one is diligent with the oil
> changes - just my opinion.
>
> As to the friction issue, that is why I now use Redline MTL in the
> gearbox/od. This product (and there are others similar) is specifically
> formulated by the manufacturer for use in transmissions where engine oil
is
> specified. In addition, it has friction enhancers added, which not only
> gives a noticeable assist to the gearbox synchro rings, it also aids in
the
> operation of the cone clutch in the overdrive. This type of product will
> noticeably improve the feel of a slightly 'iffy' gearbox, without
> compromising the operation of the overdrive. I know of at least a couple
of
> dozen Healey owners who are using it with success.
>
> Redline MT90 is the same product, (same friction enhancers), but a
slightly
> heavier weight for those that feel they want the extra protection in very
> hot weather conditions.
>
> So there, I've stirred the pot yet again!
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 6:21 AM
> Subject: Re: overdrive oil
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I'd just like to expand on Tom's statement.
>
> 'Friction modified' engine oil is a problem in gearboxes - ie never use a
> 'friction modified' oil in the transmission - the 'syncromesh' requires
> friction to work - ie the purpose of the 'syncro' is to slow the gear down
> to enable it to 'mesh'. So friction modified engine oil isn't good in
> gearboxes.
>
> Some Extreme Pressure (EP) mineral (gear) oil has sulphur additives which
> will attack brass syncros - which is why the factory said engine oil in
> 1954 - 1966. 'Modern' eg Synthetic gear oil doesn't have sulphur in it;
non
> EP gear oil shouldn't have sulphur in it; and BJ8's have steel syncros
> anyway.
>
> The 'detergent' issue is slightly different - there are two issues for
> Healeys - the gearbox and the overdrive.
>
> Detergent is put in engine oils to pick up the byproducts of combustion,
and
> carry them around in suspension in the engine oil, so they can be removed
by
> the engine oil filter. Firstly - there is no 'filter' (ie like an engine
oil
> filter - which filters to microns) to clean the oil in the
> gearbox/overdrive - only a mesh strainer (which only really stops big
lumps
> of chipped gears) - so why would you want the solids suspended in the oil
in
> your overdrive - which is an aluminium casting - where they can grind
> about?
>
> But that won't make any major difference that you will notice when you are
> driving the car (like if you use a friction modified oil - you'll
noticably
> grind the gears..... )
>
> Secondly - a gearbox is like a box full of eggbeaters - so foaming,
aeration
> etc are always going to be a problem. And guess what? We have a hydraulic
> overdrive using the same oil. Generally, non detergent oils will allow
the
> overdrive hydraulics to function as per specification - any hydraulic
system
> which is trying to compress air won't work very well. And - you'll also
> notice that when you drive the car.
>
> As Tom said - the rest of the issues are covered in substantial depth, in
> the archives.
>
> Chris
>
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Tlfelts@aol.com>
> To: <international_investor@yahoo.com>; <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 10:05 PM
> Subject: Re: overdrive oil
>
>
> > In a message dated 6/24/03 1:30:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
> >
> > << Tranny won't get as hot as the motor, but 20W50 is the
> > way to go >>
> >
> > I was under the impression it was the detergent additives in the oil
that
> > gave the problems in the OD operation. That is why I have always used
30w
> ND. I
> > did try a 20/50 which i assume had detergent additives in it once and
had
> > problems----
> >
> > Regards
> > Tom
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 21:27:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Times they are a-changin'
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>; "Healeys (E-mail)"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: Times they are a-changin'
| Alex. IMHO there are a number of things that will make this car harder to
| sell than most. 1. It is in the middle of nowhere which makes seeing it
| before purchase difficult. 2. The seller has 0 feedback. 3. If you read
the
| fine print at the bottom there is no warrantee of any kind. The car is
being
| sold AS IS. It looks great but I for one (and I am a guy who bought a BT7
| sight unseen) would stear clear of this one. Cheers, JL
|
| James Lea Clockmaker
| 2 West St. PO Box 25
| Rockport Maine 04856
| 1-207-236-3632
| BT7III
|
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 18:41:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Times they are a-changin'
Wonder if that includes parts, labor, phone bill to parts house, beer, etc.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
To: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 10:49 AM
Subject: Times they are a-changin'
> Times must be rough. There's a perfectly acceptable-looking Mk. 1 on Ebay at
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2420306572&cat
> egory=6023 with nary a bid!
>
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> Amateur Radio AI2Q
> http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 18:46:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Times they are a-changin'
John Snyder
> Alex. IMHO there are a number of things that will make this car harder to
sell than most. 1. It is in the middle of nowhere which makes seeing it
before purchase difficult. 2. The seller has 0 feedback. 3. If you read the
fine print at the bottom there is no warrantee of any kind. The car is being
sold AS IS. It looks great but I for one (and I am a guy who bought a BT7
sight unseen) would stear clear of this one. Cheers, JL
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From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 22:30:21 -0400
Subject: Re: no oil pressure cont. now high pressure
I wouldn't worry too much about blowing out the spin on filter. Vintage
Volvos normally run at least as high as you have, usually higher. A
friend of mine has a Volvo engine in his MG TD and it pegs the stock TD
oil pressure gauge needle at 100 psi on cold startups. Who knows how
high it really is. Volvo oil pressure gauges go higher. All of these
old B18 and B20 engines use a spin on filter.
Charlie
Ron Davies wrote:
>First I want to thank all the listers that helped me get my BJ8 through the
>"no oil pressure" event!
>My mechanic was glad I learned a few lessons also :-)
>He said he'd built dozens of engines and never had to bleed the oil pressure
>line. Yesteday I disconnected the oil pressure line from the back of the
>gauge and ran the engine for a couple of minutes letting the oil flow into
>half a coffee can. That stopped the violently fluctiating readings. Then I
>drove 25 minutes to his shop, unhooked my gauge and hooked one of his spares
>up.
>I got the same readings, which brings me to my current problem. I was
>hoping that getting the sludge out of the old pan would solve my high
>readings but it didn't.
>With the new pan, K&H filter and fresh 10-30 oil I get the (same) following
>conditions.
>1. cold engine at startup- 80lbs and 85lbs driving.
>2. after driving for 7 minutes at 65-70mph it is 75lbs
>3. at 10 minutes it has slowley dropped to 65lbs and the temp gauge is
>reading a steady 160.
>4. by 15 minutes it is 55lbs cruising and 22lbs at idle.
>5. if I shut down then restart a warm engine, then kick the throttle up to
>3500 it goes to 60lbs and 40 at idle, then
>if I shut down and let idle it drops to 22lbs.
>
>The overpressure valve spring has been shortened by someone else two turns
>and the rear of the valve itself has been crudely cut shorter. My mechanic
>suggested cutting another turn out of the spring to see what happens since I
>have a back up spring available. The engine has 63,000 original miles, new
>head gasket, strong and equal compression readings. Car runs great but I'm
>worried about blowing out the spin on filter with 85lbs pressure. Yes, the
>pressures were like this before I converted to spin on filters. So far I've
>just driven very carefully for the first 10 minutes but I'd like to get to
>the bottom of this.
>
>Q: What causes high oil pressures that drops as the oil gets hot? Is it
>possible that my overpressure valve is just not working at all? Should I
>take it out and start it up?
>Suggestions on how to proceed?
>Thanks in Advance everyone :-)
>Ron
>67 BJ8
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From "Kufchak" <leemar at bendcable.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 19:38:20 -0700
Subject: re: Healey insurance appraisal
I am using State Farm because I have used it for my other cars, house,
personal articles, etc for years. Have only made two claims in 15+ years, but
they were right on top of it and the service was excellent. For my AH I am on
a limited mileage program (very reasonable mileage), and the cost is far less
than a friend's Mustang that has less than half the value of my AH.
However, if there is a compelling reason to switch insurers for my AH, I am
certainly interested. Do you have more info - company location, etc?
Thanks, Lee
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 19:34:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Times they are a-changin'
Bob
----------
>From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
>To: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>, "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Times they are a-changin'
>Date: Tue, Jun 24, 2003, 5:19 PM
>
> Alex. IMHO there are a number of things that will make this car harder to
> sell than most. 1. It is in the middle of nowhere which makes seeing it
> before purchase difficult. 2. The seller has 0 feedback. 3. If you read the
> fine print at the bottom there is no warrantee of any kind. The car is being
> sold AS IS. It looks great but I for one (and I am a guy who bought a BT7
> sight unseen) would stear clear of this one. Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> BT7III
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 23:11:40 EDT
Subject: Pre-Conclave Report
California drivers are overcoming challenges--Don and Gloria Fisher of the
Los Angeles area arrived today after a trouble-free trip, only to bend a rear
wheel in a pothole while calling on an old friend who lives in this area, but
Don reports that there does not seem to be any other damage. John Trifari of
the Golden Gate Club called a while ago to tell me that he had a
problem--seemingly a combination of timing and mixture--that sidelined him for
a while this
afternoon in the Parkersburg, WV area, but that he and Steve Cloyes are back
on the road and should arrive tomorrow afternoon.
That's all I know right now--weather is good and all looks positive. BTW, if
anyone wants any messages passed to Conclave registrants I will be happy to
oblige if I can.
Best--Michael Oritt, Capital Area Austin-Healey (Conclave Host) Club
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 20:25:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey insurance appraisal
Bob
----------
>From: "Kufchak" <leemar@bendcable.com>
>To: "healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: re: Healey insurance appraisal
>Date: Tue, Jun 24, 2003, 7:38 PM
>
> Some of you have written about Hagertys insurance, and I'm not aware of that
> company.
>
> I am using State Farm because I have used it for my other cars, house,
> personal articles, etc for years. Have only made two claims in 15+ years, but
> they were right on top of it and the service was excellent. For my AH I am on
> a limited mileage program (very reasonable mileage), and the cost is far less
> than a friend's Mustang that has less than half the value of my AH.
>
> However, if there is a compelling reason to switch insurers for my AH, I am
> certainly interested. Do you have more info - company location, etc?
>
> Thanks, Lee
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 23:00:36 -0500
Subject: 100-4 For Sale
Owner: davedefauw@netscape.net
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 22:20:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Overdrive Oil
The correct lubricant for your gearbox and overdrive according to this
internet list is 30 weight non-detergent motor oil.
Take your pick.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 07:29:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey insurance appraisal
<< Some of you have written about Hagertys insurance, and I'm not aware of
that
company.
I am using State Farm because I have used it for my other cars, house,
personal articles, etc for years. >>
My guess is that Hagerty will be less expensive than what you have since they
offer Classic Car Insurance.
I have used various classic car insurance groups, but like Hagerty as they
don't fuss a lot on number of miles driven per year. And, they are very
responsive.
tom
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 05:14:55 -0700
Subject: commercial
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 05:25:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Monza Exhausts
Tamper with the Healey sound at your peril!
Caveat Emptor.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 05:35:34 -0700
Subject: Re: no oil pressure cont. now high pressure
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 08:52:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Monza Exhausts
How do they compare with the sound of an E-Type Jaguar? I used to wish my
Healey sounded more like a Jag. (That's probably more heretical today than
it was 40 years ago.)
--
John Miller
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 23:29:39 +1000
Subject: Update to healey site
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 09:29:00 -0400
Subject: Re: commercial
Bob Johnson
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 8:14 AM
Subject: commercial
> has anyone seen the commercial with all the healey's? anyone on the list
> owners?
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 09:35:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Times they are a-changin'
Also, check out the swage line alignment between the left door and the
left rear fender (wing) in one of the close up photos. It takes n amount
of work to get it this good, 10 times n to get it perfect. It's one of
the big judging points (if you care abou those things) on Healeys. Nd
you can't fix it once the car is done unless the door is just hung too
low or high, front and back.
Bill Schmidt
56 100m
On Tue, 24 Jun 2003 20:19:29 -0400 "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
writes:
> Alex. IMHO there are a number of things that will make this car
> harder to
> sell than most. 1. It is in the middle of nowhere which makes seeing
> it
> before purchase difficult. 2. The seller has 0 feedback. 3. If you
> read the
> fine print at the bottom there is no warrantee of any kind. The car
> is being
> sold AS IS. It looks great but I for one (and I am a guy who bought
> a BT7
> sight unseen) would stear clear of this one. Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> BT7III
>
>
________________________________________________________________
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From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 10:08:22 -0500
Subject: 100-4 Master Cylinder
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 08:17:56 -0700
Subject: Re: commercial
>From: "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net>
>To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: commercial
>Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 09:29:00 -0400
>
>Are you talking about the ad by the rheumatoid arthritis foundation that
>shows up on cable channels? Shows a shop looking setting where you can see
>3
>Healeys in one shot, several different Healeys in short single shots? Yes,
>I've seen it, but since I missed reading emails for about a week, I figured
>that the "sighting" had already been noted. You know, there may even be
>some
>product discussed in the ad, I never noticed, just looking for car shots.
>Whose stuff is this?
>
>Bob Johnson
>BJ8
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
>To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 8:14 AM
>Subject: commercial
>
>
> > has anyone seen the commercial with all the healey's? anyone on the list
> > owners?
>
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 08:20:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Times they are a-changin'
The rubber boot seal is supposed to be on the boot lid.
The trim on the seat back does not follow the edge.
Gray carpet? might just be the photos.
Black oil fill cap.
The felt added to the underside of the bonnet will be a joy to clean.
As someone else mentioned; black engine bay and poor door hang.
Makes you wonder if it was a frame off restoration or a reupholster and
respray?
Cheers,
John
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 11:51:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Monza Exhausts
<< How do they compare with the sound of an E-Type Jaguar? I used to wish my
Healey sounded more like a Jag. (That's probably more heretical today than
it was 40 years ago.)
--
John Miller >>
I'd say it sound more Jag Like. Not like jag, but it is a very nice sporty
note. I love it. I don't get that popping sound on decelleration. Just a hint
of
the old "burble"
RIck
San Diego
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 09:02:45 -0700
Subject: FW: Re: How to Locate Your Wife
Where's my Wife?
A man approached a very beautiful woman in
the large supermarket and said,
"I've lost my wife here in the supermarket.
Can you talk to me for a couple of minutes?"
The woman looked puzzled. "Why talk to me?" she asked.
"Because every time I talk to a woman with tits like yours,
my wife appears out of nowhere "
:-)
Kirk
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From gilmour at chesapeake.net
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 16:37:15 GMT
Subject: Re: Times they are a-changin'
------------------------------------------------------------------
This email message was sent using web-based email services provided by
Chesapeake.Net
Internet Services.
http://www.chesapeake.net/
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From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 18:30:37 -0400
Subject: steering box
Question: Is it likely that the oil seal needs replacing-if so it seems fairly
straight forward-just remove the cotter pin, nut and dust cover-pull the seal
and press new one in place.
Never done this so am I right or wrong?
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From daniel white <dwhite4949 at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 18:22:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Monza exhaust
Dan White
BN7
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 17:35:49 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-4 Master Cylinder
A few reassemblies might be in order. First step is to heat the copper
washer red hot and then let it cool. Some people get good results from this
technique. It is said to reshape and soften the original washer. Next, what
I did was to use locktite as a high pressure sealant. These steps worked
fine for me.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ward Stebner" <liason@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 10:08 AM
Subject: 100-4 Master Cylinder
I am wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction to find a
replacement for the large copper crush washer that is at the front of a
100-4 master cylinder. I had my master cylinder rebuilt by A**le Hydraulics
and cannot get it to stop leaking at the front copper washer. I don't really
want to take it off and send it back to them at this point.
Thanks in advance.
Ward Stebner
1956 BN2
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 18:58:33 -0400
Subject: RE: steering box
Not quite that easy, usually the arm is really tight on the steering box
shaft and you will have to use a good quality pitman arm puller and
thread protection nut to get it off, after removing the steering box
mounting bolts and rotating the box a little for access.
After that it is pretty straight forward, unless of course the seal
surface on the shaft is pitted, which they usually are, then your new
seal may not work anyway.
Ain't it fun :-)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dr. Carl Rubino
Sent: 25-Jun-03 6:31 PM
To: healeys
Subject: steering box
Was checking out the front end and noticed oil on the bottom of the
steering
box. Level was down a bit so I topped it up. 24 hours later seems
OK-havn't
driven it however.
Question: Is it likely that the oil seal needs replacing-if so it seems
fairly
straight forward-just remove the cotter pin, nut and dust cover-pull the
seal
and press new one in place.
Never done this so am I right or wrong?
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From Jnhorn at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 19:30:03 EDT
Subject: Monza Exhaust
Jon Einhorn
BJ8
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From tld6008 at mchsi.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 23:33:35 +0000
Subject: TEST
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From tld6008 at mchsi.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 23:40:59 +0000
Subject: test
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 19:28:51 -0500
Subject: Re: steering box
I wasn't going to say anything, but since Mr. Salter reminded me of what a
pain that leaking problem was to fix. If you need some Penrite Steering
Box Lube I have 40 bottles on a pallet somewhere on the high seas heading
for Houston.
Let me know if your interested. It won't leak.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 06:30 PM 6/25/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>Was checking out the front end and noticed oil on the bottom of the steering
>box. Level was down a bit so I topped it up. 24 hours later seems OK-havn't
>driven it however.
>
>Question: Is it likely that the oil seal needs replacing-if so it seems
fairly
>straight forward-just remove the cotter pin, nut and dust cover-pull the seal
>and press new one in place.
>
>Never done this so am I right or wrong?
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From tld6008 at mchsi.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 00:28:45 +0000
Subject: Two questions
Second question: Any dissenting opinions as to converting to a spin on oil
filter adapter? I almost bought one then heard that they restrict flow and
other negative side effects.
Thanks
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 20:40:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Two questions
Bob Denton
tld6008@mchsi.com wrote:
>Can anyone give me advice on inserting a new lower grill trim piece on a 1960
>BN7? It doesn't look like it would fit without bending it although there was a
>bend in the center of it which the supplier said was "as Original" I just had
>the car painted and I can see me scratching it up and destroying the new trim.
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From linwood rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 21:08:07 -0400
Subject: A question regarding your 100S project
Lin
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 18:04:07 -0700
Subject: Exhaust Followup
The Moss muffler is a glasspack and has a fairly street-race sound, with a
mid-range rumble and high-end rap, which I think is in keeping with the more
spartan BN6-7. It's loud enough to require ear plugs on the highway. Sounds
like a well-used XK 120 rather than an E-Type--not that
sophisticated-sounding.
Got the tailpipe thru Healey Surgeons, who order in bulk from AH Spares in
GB. Shipping from GB was going to be 107 pounds!
Hemphills' catalog says they carry big bore tailpipes and matching
mufflers--they may be the same.
My stock muffler was a straight-through all metal muffler with spiral
louvers in the through tubes directing the sound into the canister. It was
quieter than the Moss, but I bet has higher back-pressure because of the
weeny ID on the tubes.
I had already bought and modified the muffler before acquiring the tailpipe,
or I would have bought the matching muffler as well.
The stainess is of a high quality and easy to polish.
Mounting brackets are welded a couple of inches in front of where they
should be and necessitate making jumpers from your chassis mounts in order
for the pipes to pass through the frame cutouts.
Stock band clamps won't fit, but you can use the next size larger and shim
them with sheet metal. Surgeons has these as well.
FWIW--as of 6 months ago, the Moss tailpipe won't fit the muffler they sell
without cutting and welding. The replacement muffler stub pipes are closer
together than those on the stock muffler.
It may be that the stock tailpipe (1-1/4") makes the same muffler quieter
through increased back-pressure.
--
Steve
> From: "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 16:36:23 -0700
> To: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
> Subject: Re: Monza Exhausts
>
> So do you have any suggestions for a replacement exhaust system that sounds
> stock?? Mild steel preferred.
> Ron Fine
> 61BN7
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 21:30:24 -0400
Subject: RE: A question regarding your 100S project
There is certainly that aspect of the fuel line beside the passenger but
it is my feeling that there is less likelihood of the fuel line being
ruptured by the things that it would come in contact with located where
I have it than on the bottom of the car where rocks are likely to cut
into it. The line that I have fitted is continuous from the tank to the
engine so I would hope that it would sort of bend out of the way rather
than rupture. These things are always a bit of a tough call but I have
experienced problems with the line on the bottom of the car and didn't
want to go through that one again.
I have run the battery cable down its original route but it is heavy
duty rubber covered welding cable with a heavy shrink wrap on it so it
should be fairly safe. I feel that it is important to have the fuel line
and the battery cable as far apart as possible. If the cable shorts out
on the fuel line things go pear shaped real fast!!
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of linwood rose
Sent: 25-Jun-03 9:08 PM
To: Michael Salter; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: A question regarding your 100S project
Mike, First I am amazed that you are able to continue offering your
expert advice on the list while also rushing to complete your 100S
race/rally project with Blair. Thanks on behalf of all of us who are
the beneficiaries of your experience. In the restoration of my 60 BT7 I
will shortly be installing wiring, fuel and brake lines. I have
considered running the wiring inside through the cockpit as you have
done in your project car. I am curious about your decision to run the
fuel line inside. I share your concern about the exposure of the line
on the bottom of the car, but are you not concerned about the fuel line
being right beside the passenger seat in the event of a side collision?
Your thoughts?
Lin
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From "PETER DAVIS" <paddymck at peoplepc.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 19:00:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re: Healey insurance appraisal
I called Hagerty at 1-800-922-4050 on the
recommendation of several other e-mail messages and
they were very helpful. You can also work up your own
quote on their website at Hagerty.com. They accepted
my requested 100M stated value and annual mileage but
it is relatively more expensive than Great American
that I am with at the moment.
regards,
Peter davis
On Tue, 24 Jun 2003 19:38:20 -0700, "Kufchak" wrote:
>
> Some of you have written about Hagertys insurance, and
> I'm not aware of that
> company.
>
> I am using State Farm because I have used it for my
> other cars, house,
> personal articles, etc for years. Have only made two
> claims in 15+ years, but
> they were right on top of it and the service was
> excellent. For my AH I am on
> a limited mileage program (very reasonable mileage),
> and the cost is far less
> than a friend's Mustang that has less than half the
> value of my AH.
>
> However, if there is a compelling reason to switch
> insurers for my AH, I am
> certainly interested. Do you have more info - company
> location, etc?
>
> Thanks, Lee
>
________________________________________________
PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart.
http://www.peoplepc.com
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From "PETER DAVIS" <paddymck at peoplepc.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 19:09:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Overdrive Oil
regards,
Peter Davis
On Tue, 24 Jun 2003 22:20:36 -0700 (PDT), Pete Cowper
wrote:
>
> The correct lubricant for your gearbox and overdrive
> according to the
> original Factory Workshop Manual is 20w/50 motor oil.
>
> The correct lubricant for your gearbox and overdrive
> according to this
> internet list is 30 weight non-detergent motor oil.
>
> Take your pick.
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
>
________________________________________________
PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart.
http://www.peoplepc.com
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 23:58:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Two questions
<< Second question: Any dissenting opinions as to converting to a spin on oil
filter adapter? I almost bought one then heard that they restrict flow and
other negative side effects.
>>
Very interesting, the holes in the adapter are as big as the holes in the
side of the block. What are the other negitive side effects you were told? I
have
had them on my Healeys for over 20 years and they work pretty well.
Don
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From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 23:38:14 -0500
Subject: Brake switch Problem
This is an A.P.B. for a part and I hope someone might be able to help.
I apologize to the other lists; consider this a desperate plea.
New problem. For the other lists, this is for a 65 Cooper S. Anyone
out there have a spare banjo fitting for the brake line? It's the part
that goes under the brake pressure switch on the chassis waaaaay under
the brake booster. It's ~90* with one end turned up a few degrees. The
line from the master cyl. and the front brakes connect to it. All the
major suppliers are selling straight fittings which won't clear the
body. Just thought I'd ask.
TIA
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
Friend's 65 Cooper S in progress
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 21:44:27 -0700
Subject: high oil pressure BJ8 update
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 22:54:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Two questions - Spin on filters
Dave Russell
BN2
Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/25/03 7:35:13 PM Central Daylight Time,
> tld6008@mchsi.com writes:
>
> << Second question: Any dissenting opinions as to converting to a spin on oil
> filter adapter? I almost bought one then heard that they restrict flow and
> other negative side effects.
> >>
>
> Very interesting, the holes in the adapter are as big as the holes in the
> side of the block. What are the other negitive side effects you were told? I
>have
> had them on my Healeys for over 20 years and they work pretty well.
>
> Don
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 18:52:28 +1000
Subject: Re: overdrive oil
I don't think its fair to blame the brand of oil you use for a leak at the
drain plug.
If you don't have the right tool, it can be hard to get that big brass
overdrive drain plug tightened. I have always wiped some gasket sealer/
silicone into the cleaned threads of any sump plug (engine/ gearbox/ diff) I
have refitted - irrespective of the brand of oil.
I use Penrite HPR 40 in my engine; Redline MT90 in my gearbox/overdrive; and
Redline 75W90 in my diff.
I'm very happy with all of them.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'Chris Dimmock'" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 1:03 AM
Subject: RE: overdrive oil
> Chris,
> What about the leaks? I tried MT90 and promptly went back to straight 30.
> Too many leaks from the drain plugs and transmission shifting had more
> clashes than before. OD performance seemed ok.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:cd3000@bigpond.net.au]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 3:21 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: overdrive oil
>
>
> Hi Earl
>
> No contention from me. I use Redline MT90. I've tried 4 other oils -
Redline
> is perfect for my use of my BJ8.
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com/Austin_Healey_technical_articles.html
>
> The only point of clarification is that MT90 is a synthetic gear oil,
> designed for use in gearboxes & hydraulics, and designed for wet clutches
> (like our overdrive has). Redline mTL or MT90 is not a multiweight engine
> oil, and has no engine oil type detergents.... So Redline MTL or MT90 is
not
> actually
>
> > the factory recommended, the same
> > oil as in the engine ....
>
> but the factory also fitted crossply tyres 40 years ago - modern radials
> offer much better grip - just like modern lubricants offer better
> lubrication!!
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
> To: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
> Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 1:51 AM
> Subject: Re: overdrive oil
>
>
> > Gentlemen:
> >
> > I'll add my 2c here ------ again.
> >
> > The detergent vs non-detergent question in the gearbox/od has been
> > contentious all along. My view - use what the factory recommended, the
> same
> > oil as in the engine - a multi-viscosity, as seen in the workshop
manual.
> > Today, that would be a 10/40 or 20/50 - most of us seem to be using the
> > latter, a bit better protection in hot weather - these cars are not
winter
> > driven much anymore.
> >
> > Personally, I believe that it's better to have any bits in suspension in
> the
> > oil so that they will drain with a change, rather than remaining to
> > accumulate in the cases over time, so long as one is diligent with the
oil
> > changes - just my opinion.
> >
> > As to the friction issue, that is why I now use Redline MTL in the
> > gearbox/od. This product (and there are others similar) is specifically
> > formulated by the manufacturer for use in transmissions where engine oil
> is
> > specified. In addition, it has friction enhancers added, which not only
> > gives a noticeable assist to the gearbox synchro rings, it also aids in
> the
> > operation of the cone clutch in the overdrive. This type of product will
> > noticeably improve the feel of a slightly 'iffy' gearbox, without
> > compromising the operation of the overdrive. I know of at least a
couple
> of
> > dozen Healey owners who are using it with success.
> >
> > Redline MT90 is the same product, (same friction enhancers), but a
> slightly
> > heavier weight for those that feel they want the extra protection in
very
> > hot weather conditions.
> >
> > So there, I've stirred the pot yet again!
> >
> > Earl Kagna
> > Victoria, B. C. Canada
> > '62 BT7 tri-carb
> > '67 BJ8
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 6:21 AM
> > Subject: Re: overdrive oil
> >
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I'd just like to expand on Tom's statement.
> >
> > 'Friction modified' engine oil is a problem in gearboxes - ie never use
a
> > 'friction modified' oil in the transmission - the 'syncromesh' requires
> > friction to work - ie the purpose of the 'syncro' is to slow the gear
down
> > to enable it to 'mesh'. So friction modified engine oil isn't good in
> > gearboxes.
> >
> > Some Extreme Pressure (EP) mineral (gear) oil has sulphur additives
which
> > will attack brass syncros - which is why the factory said engine oil in
> > 1954 - 1966. 'Modern' eg Synthetic gear oil doesn't have sulphur in it;
> non
> > EP gear oil shouldn't have sulphur in it; and BJ8's have steel syncros
> > anyway.
> >
> > The 'detergent' issue is slightly different - there are two issues for
> > Healeys - the gearbox and the overdrive.
> >
> > Detergent is put in engine oils to pick up the byproducts of combustion,
> and
> > carry them around in suspension in the engine oil, so they can be
removed
> by
> > the engine oil filter. Firstly - there is no 'filter' (ie like an engine
> oil
> > filter - which filters to microns) to clean the oil in the
> > gearbox/overdrive - only a mesh strainer (which only really stops big
> lumps
> > of chipped gears) - so why would you want the solids suspended in the
oil
> in
> > your overdrive - which is an aluminium casting - where they can grind
> > about?
> >
> > But that won't make any major difference that you will notice when you
are
> > driving the car (like if you use a friction modified oil - you'll
> noticably
> > grind the gears..... )
> >
> > Secondly - a gearbox is like a box full of eggbeaters - so foaming,
> aeration
> > etc are always going to be a problem. And guess what? We have a
hydraulic
> > overdrive using the same oil. Generally, non detergent oils will allow
> the
> > overdrive hydraulics to function as per specification - any hydraulic
> system
> > which is trying to compress air won't work very well. And - you'll also
> > notice that when you drive the car.
> >
> > As Tom said - the rest of the issues are covered in substantial depth,
in
> > the archives.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > ______________________________________
> >
> > Chris Dimmock
> > Sydney Australia
> >
> > http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> > ______________________________________
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Tlfelts@aol.com>
> > To: <international_investor@yahoo.com>; <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>;
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 10:05 PM
> > Subject: Re: overdrive oil
> >
> >
> > > In a message dated 6/24/03 1:30:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > > international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
> > >
> > > << Tranny won't get as hot as the motor, but 20W50 is the
> > > way to go >>
> > >
> > > I was under the impression it was the detergent additives in the oil
> that
> > > gave the problems in the OD operation. That is why I have always used
> 30w
> > ND. I
> > > did try a 20/50 which i assume had detergent additives in it once and
> had
> > > problems----
> > >
> > > Regards
> > > Tom
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 06:24:48 EDT
Subject: Conclave Photos
<A
HREF="http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/ah2003conclave/lst?.dir=/Conclave+2003+VA&.view=t";>http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/ah2003conclave/lst?.dir=/Conclave+2003+VA&.view=t</A>
More later--Michael Oritt
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 07:14:09 -0500
Subject: Complete TRI CARB set up $700
Located in Dallas, TX
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 09:09:20 -0500
Subject: need help on covering the BT7 rear seat lean back/top cover
Brian
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 08:35:15 -0600
Subject: BJ8 squab
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 09:49:14 -0500
Subject: NICE 82 633CSI for sale $4900/best offer $3-4000 spent in
I have just done a complete new Bavarian Autosport Clutch kit plus new
clutch master cylinder and slave cylinders. "White with excellent
original Navy blue leather that was recently refinished by local upholstery
shop. Texas car, new dash top, carpet redyded, rear shelf and rear speaker
covers have been recovered. A/C is intact and compressor engages--holding
Freon, but I can not get the blower fan to come on with any consistency.
seems like fuses often need to be removed and contacts cleaned--have heard
this is a common problem. some have said to use dielectric grease---haven't
found any yet to try. Comes with new Napa R 134 "10 minute conversion" kit
that includes proper nipples, Freon, and charging tube. They claim no come
backs or complaints on this. Lots of other items have recently been
repaired or replaced recently. OEM BBS wire basket wheels with newish
Looking older radials. Dual tip Monza exhaust tip. Appears to be all
original paint that looks nice, but is now getting thin on some edges from
buffing (could be touched up) with the exception of the right front fender
and possibly the complete right side. The right front fender is still the
original unit, paint is just flaking off in a few spots showing original
paint underneath--No sign of any kind of sanding, bondo or even primer at
all on the underlying original paint, so guessing it was not anything
serious. Shocks are toast. Car starts instantly with no smoke and runs
great. See no reason this car could not be driven to any destination.
$4900 or best offer Located in Dallas, TX
Brian Collins
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 07:58:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust Followup
> From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
>
> also what affect does the change in back pressure have on performance?
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 09:31:45 -0600
Subject: Free Rover
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
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From "Don Factor" <don.factor at spectrummg.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 11:30:35 -0400
Subject: Distributer conversion
AH spares has a conversion kit (plate) available....
Any used ones available???
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From Franck Vigneron <vigneronf at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 08:35:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Overdrive on or off and Gaz
1. My overdrive switch is disconnected. How can I tell
if my overdrive is on or off. What would be the
indicators of this? Any lever that would indicate it
on the overdrive?
2. What modern gaz do you recommend to use?
91, 89 or 87?
Thank you
Franck
1960 BT7
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 09:20:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Newbie questions
Skip
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 18:06:41 +0100
Subject: Re: Distributer conversion
I suspect that you are confusing the changes for a 100 to a 100M with
early and late action plates with their associated points etc.
If you have a later type distributor you only need advance springs and a
different vacuum unit.
If you have an early type of distibutor then you will indeed need to
replace the plate etc. as well because I suspect that AH Spares cannot
get hold of a suitable vacuum unit for a 100M with the earlier link
connection. Later vacuum units have the spring type of connection.
You may well have to do away with your vacuum pipe connection anyway and
subctitute a short length of rubber tube
All the best
Factor <don.factor@spectrummg.com> writes
>Does anyone have any experience or feedback for changing a 100-4
>distributer into a 100-m?
>
>AH spares has a conversion kit (plate) available....
> Any used ones available???
>
--
John Harper
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 14:47:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Newbie questions
(2) That is quite subjective of course, but any Healey with brakes in good
shape, especially having disc fronts (3000Mk1/1959 or better) should not have
ANY trouble slowing/stopping under normal driving conditions, especially
"missing a corner" which presumes you were not going really fast to begin with;
though the pedal pressure could be higher than the power brakes you are used to.
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 14:47:53 -0400
Subject: Re: need help on covering the BT7 rear seat lean back/top cover
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 15:02:56 -0400
Subject: Mark of the legend
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 15:19:37 -0400
Subject: exhaust manifold finish
When restoring a Healey manifold wouldn't if be better to paint on a dark grey
finish which holds up to the heat rather than the engine paint which may burn
off?
What are the recommendations?
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 Bn-2
Millis, MA 02054
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Healeylinedraw.jpg]
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From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 12:53:05 -0700
Subject: test
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 16:02:52 EDT
Subject: Re: exhaust manifold finish
<< When restoring a Healey manifold wouldn't if be better to paint on a dark
grey
finish which holds up to the heat rather than the engine paint which may burn
off?
What are the recommendations? >>
There are manifold treaments available that look as you describe. Made with
some sort of graphite. They look great for show, and resist oxidation. Eastwood
and others sell them.
Jet-Hot coatings are another option.
Rick
San Diego
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From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 13:48:58 -0700
Subject: test 2
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 17:45:39 -0400
Subject: Rendezvous
Reviewer: A viewer from Chicago
I just purchased the DVD of this through another website and I must say all
of the hype I heard about it was true. I had heard about this movie for
years from friends and I finally was able to see it for myself. This is
truely amazing film. The myth that surrounds the movie only make it more
enjoyable, but whipping through early morning Paris with the sounds of the
V12 roaring make this a film that must be watched. It is simply a piece of
driving artistry that almost anyone could appreciate. Whether or not you
purchase it, everyone should see it. Without a doubt the most amazing 9
minutes of film, I have ever seen. White-knuckle film.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Bt7III
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 18:17:06 EDT
Subject: Change ratio in OD preferable to ratio in diff query
(Seems that I may as well change ratio as I'll be swapping virtually all the
internals...I gather they swap virtually everything and it's a one-off price).
Simon.
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 18:24:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Change ratio in OD preferable to ratio in diff query
<< I may be in the sad position of having to send my OD off to one of the
Laycock rebuilders. Maybe not, but there's a good chance.........
So, I've been thinking about switching the ratio in my diff to 3:54 and I've
seen comments, during the last round on this topic, that a beter way to go
might be to swap to a "longer" ratio in the OD.
Does anyone have any thoughts, comments?
(Seems that I may as well change ratio as I'll be swapping virtually all the
internals...I gather they swap virtually everything and it's a one-off price).
Simon. >>
I've got a 100-6 so I've got the 28 overdrive, and a 3.54:1 rear end. Getting
the rear end gears will be harder, and probably cost more than replacing the
overdrive unit that you can find all over the place pretty easily.
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 18:38:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Rendezvous
Bob Denton
James Lea wrote:
>Kirk. this is a review from Amazon.com.
>
>Reviewer: A viewer from Chicago
>I just purchased the DVD of this through another website and I must say all
>of the hype I heard about it was true. I had heard about this movie for
>years from friends and I finally was able to see it for myself. This is
>truely amazing film. The myth that surrounds the movie only make it more
>enjoyable, but whipping through early morning Paris with the sounds of the
>V12 roaring make this a film that must be watched. It is simply a piece of
>driving artistry that almost anyone could appreciate. Whether or not you
>purchase it, everyone should see it. Without a doubt the most amazing 9
>minutes of film, I have ever seen. White-knuckle film.
>
>James Lea Clockmaker
>2 West St. PO Box 25
>Rockport Maine 04856
>1-207-236-3632
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 19:17:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Rendezvous
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 19:03:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Mark of the legend
ML
----- Original Message -----
From: James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: List Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 2:02 PM
Subject: Mark of the legend
> Listers. Has anyone heard of a car film called The Mark of the Legend? I
was
> told it is very good and available on VHS but have been unable to locate
it.
> I saw Rendezvous for the first time last week and was completely blown
away.
> If you have not seen it it is available on-line. I heard from a friend in
> the know that he got jail time for doing it. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> BT7III
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 18:52:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Change ratio in OD preferable to ratio in diff query
I have a 3.545 differential plus a 28% OD in my BN2. It has great
cruising ability, 2200 rpm = about 60 mph, 3000 about 80 mph. Of course
the BN2 is somewhat lighter & maybe has more low rpm torque than the
later cars.-- Here comes some controversy.
A down shift to direct brings the rpm up quite a bit & will handle any
hill that I have encountered. I drive in a lot of mountainous country.
With the 3.545 axle, starting from a stop is not detectably different
than with the old 4.11 ratio. Just won't burn as much rubber. I
certainly have no problem with the 28% ratio. If you have a very highly
tuned engine that will not pull below 3000 rpm then the stock OD & or
axle gearing may be better. YMMV
Dave Russell
BN2
Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote:
> I may be in the sad position of having to send my OD off to one of the
> Laycock rebuilders. Maybe not, but there's a good chance.........
> So, I've been thinking about switching the ratio in my diff to 3:54 and I've
> seen comments, during the last round on this topic, that a beter way to go
> might be to swap to a "longer" ratio in the OD.
> Does anyone have any thoughts, comments?
>
> (Seems that I may as well change ratio as I'll be swapping virtually all the
> internals...I gather they swap virtually everything and it's a one-off price).
>
> Simon.
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 21:18:49 -0400
Subject: RE: Newbie questions
1. At 60 mph, I get a drop of about 500 rpm when I turn on the overdrive.
2. Your brake symptoms sound like your car (if it is a BJ8) has a bad
servo. The best way I can describe the "bad servo" symptom is that
the brake pedal feels like it is hitting against something when
you step on it. If the car does not have a brake servo, but still feels
this way, then you may have the wrong master cylinder.
HTH,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Skip Besaw
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 12:20 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Newbie questions
I am brand new to Healeys so please forgive my ignorance. I've been reading
all posts for last two weeks.
1. When the O/D is engaged how many RPM's should drop?Mine seems to drop
around 500 RPM.
2. I'm used to power brakes and have an Infinity G35 Coupe with very
sensitive brakes. It seems I really have to get on the Haley's brakes. First
couple of times rolled by my intended turn. Better nowthat I'm getting used
to it but still seems to tak a lot of pressure. Nice firm pedal, no griding
or noise of any kind. Maybe I'm just to used to senstive power brakes. This
car was a restore and brakes were included in that. Again maybe it's me.
I appreciate the time taken to answer.
Skip
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 19:11:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Overdrive on or off and Gaz
If your switch is disconnected, it is likely off.
To check if it is on turn on your ignition (not the
motor, just ignition) and then put the gear selector
lever in third or fourth gear, you should hear an
audible "click" if it is on. If you are unsure here,
then drive your car and put the car into third or
fourth gear. Overdrive is hydraulically activated...
so it takes about half a second to engage. Therefore
if your car shifts solidly into third or fourth gear
with no "delay", then your OD is off.
Gas - in general the 6 cyl cars were designed to run
on hi test, so use 91 octane.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Dear Healey Members,
>
> 1. My overdrive switch is disconnected. How can I
> tell
> if my overdrive is on or off. What would be the
> indicators of this? Any lever that would indicate it
> on the overdrive?
>
> 2. What modern gaz do you recommend to use?
> 91, 89 or 87?
>
> Thank you
> Franck
> 1960 BT7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 22:23:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave Photos
> Michael,
>
> Those links don't appear to be working. Tried pasting sections into the
> browser window but no luck either. Could you send just one of the links?
>
>
John--
I will try to get this resolved tomorrow by the fellow who set up the site
and will update the list.
Best--Michael
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From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 19:34:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Newbie questions
(Psst, you can see Skip's BJ8 at
http://www.healey.org/member-cars.php?show=year&which=1967 Click on the
thumbnail at that bottom of the page for a full view. While you're there,
browse around the other makes.)
Brad Weldon
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 9:20 AM
Subject: Newbie questions
> I am brand new to Healeys so please forgive my ignorance. I've been
reading all posts for last two weeks.
>
> 1. When the O/D is engaged how many RPM's should drop?Mine seems to drop
around 500 RPM.
>
> 2. I'm used to power brakes and have an Infinity G35 Coupe with very
sensitive brakes. It seems I really have to get on the Haley's brakes. First
couple of times rolled by my intended turn. Better nowthat I'm getting used
to it but still seems to tak a lot of pressure. Nice firm pedal, no griding
or noise of any kind. Maybe I'm just to used to senstive power brakes. This
car was a restore and brakes were included in that. Again maybe it's me.
>
> I appreciate the time taken to answer.
>
> Skip
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 23:26:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave Photos
Steve M.
In a message dated 6/26/2003 7:57:49 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
> In a message dated 6/26/03 11:38:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> loftusdesign@cox.net writes:
>
> >Michael,
> >
> >Those links don't appear to be working. Tried pasting sections into the
> >browser window but no luck either. Could you send just one of the links?
> >
> >
> John--
>
> I will try to get this resolved tomorrow by the fellow who set up the site
> and will update the list.
>
> Best--Michael
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 21:23:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Newbie questions
Ok, more information is helpful!
Next question, is your brake fluid level dropping? If
so that may mean the piston chamber in the booster is
filling with fluid and that's why it's not working.
It'll need to be rebuilt again if this is the case.
If your booster was recently rebuilt, another
potential problem is the vacuum piston seal may not
have been cut down in thickness (the seals provided
with rebuild kits are often too thick). If this is
the case, the vacuum piston cannot move and you will
not get any braking assist. This may be difficult for
your mechanic to diagnose unless he knows healeys
well.
A way to see if this is the case is, while the engine
is running, have someone step on the brakes hard and
then tap LIGHTLY on the booster chamber with a rubber
mallot and see if the brake boost engages... if
engages when you do this, then the vacuum piston seal
is too thick (or possibly not lubricated).
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Skip Besaw <besaw55@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Thanks,
>
> I've been told to put my car in signature and I
> have. I think it may be thebooster although I was
> told it was rebuilt in April. I'm havig a well known
> Healey mechanic lok at it next week. In the meantime
> I'm developing good leg muscles
>
> Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> Skip -
>
> The first question is what type of healey are you
> driving? a 100-6? These have drum brakes and require
> some pressure to stop. If it's a BJ8 or BJ7 (MkII or
> MkIII) this may be indicative of a malfunctionaing
> brake booster, as these healeys have a fair amount
> of
> power assist on the brakes.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Skip Besaw wrote:
> > I am brand new to Healeys so please forgive my
> > ignorance. I've been reading all posts for last
> two
> > weeks.
> >
> > 1. When the O/D is engaged how many RPM's should
> > drop?Mine seems to drop around 500 RPM.
> >
> > 2. I'm used to power brakes and have an Infinity
> G35
> > Coupe with very sensitive brakes. It seems I
> really
> > have to get on the Haley's brakes. First couple of
> > times rolled by my intended turn. Better nowthat
> I'm
> > getting used to it but still seems to tak a lot of
> > pressure. Nice firm pedal, no griding or noise of
> > any kind. Maybe I'm just to used to senstive power
> > brakes. This car was a restore and brakes were
> > included in that. Again maybe it's me.
> >
> > I appreciate the time taken to answer.
> >
> > Skip
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 01:35:55 EDT
Subject: Overdrive and rear end gearing
http://members.aol.com/wilko
CLick the wrench icon in the upper right corner for the tech section, see
article on Gear ratios
Rick
San Diego
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From Franck Vigneron <vigneronf at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 23:33:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Overdrive on or off and Gaz
Is this correct?
Mine was originally up and I pushed it down with a
screw driver. This seemed to have disengaged the
overdrive. Is this correct?
Thank you,
Franck
1960 BT7
__________________________________
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 04:34:40 -0500
Subject: test
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 17:36:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Rendezvous
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From Michael Giroux <MGIROUX at SGL.COM>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 10:00:13 -0400
Subject: Carb question (not Healey but TR6)
Thanks
Michael Giroux
62BT7 (slowly being restored),
71TR6,
81Malibu (daily driver, standard trans 322,000km)
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 17:02:54 +0200
Subject: Re: Mark of the legend
Could it be: Mountain Legend? The Targa Florio 1965 VHS-film (I think
produced by Castrol). Was covered on the Healey list some time ago. I
purchased mine some years ago through www.motorbooks.co.uk.
Best regards
Martin
Germany
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
Subject: Mark of the legend
> Listers. Has anyone heard of a car film called The Mark of the Legend? I
was
> told it is very good and available on VHS but have been unable to locate
it.
SNIP
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 08:42:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Overdrive on or off and Gaz
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Franck Vigneron" <vigneronf@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 11:33 PM
Subject: Re: Overdrive on or off and Gaz
> Thank you for earlier replies from members.
> Under the solenoid there is a fork which acts as a
> lever to the solenoid (for overdrive).
> I think if the lever/fork is at the bottom, touching
> on the little platform it means the overdrive is off.
> But if the lever/fork is up from the platform and
> going in the solenoid it means that the overdrive is
> on.
>
> Is this correct?
>
> Mine was originally up and I pushed it down with a
> screw driver. This seemed to have disengaged the
> overdrive. Is this correct?
>
> Thank you,
> Franck
> 1960 BT7
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From Bob Welch <bobw at gmnameplate.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 09:19:27 -0700
Subject: fan shroud and fan color
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 12:26:40 EDT
Subject: Re: fan shroud and fan color
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 11:43:40 -0500
Subject: RE: fan shroud and fan color
-----Original Message-----
From: RAHosmer@aol.com [mailto:RAHosmer@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 11:27 AM
To: bobw@gmnameplate.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: fan shroud and fan color
As an aside, speaking of "truly original" cars - the fan shroud/guard on my
62BT7, of which I am the original owner, is black, brushed on, not red. In
fact, on my first Healey (a very early BN7) that part was also black, as was
its'
fan. The 62BT7 has a yellow fan.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 10:59:14 -0700
Subject: 'Philosophy' of Fan Shroud color
How it looked when it left the factory, or even whether there was any
consistency to the red and the yellow is anyone's guess. I bet they weren't
as careful with the red and yellow as with the overall paint job colors.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 11:58:59 -0700
Subject: Re: fan shroud and fan color
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From Michael Giroux <MGIROUX at SGL.COM>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 15:35:31 -0400
Subject: Carb question (not Healey but TR6) Thank you for help !!
I will check the float and needle first, as that is what the majority of
you suggested . Should be able to get to it middle of next week after long
weekend.
Thanks
Michael Giroux
62BT7 (slowly being restored),
71TR6,
81Malibu (daily driver, standard trans 322,000km)
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 15:28:05 -0500
Subject: Re: fan shroud and fan color
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 18:10:23 EDT
Subject: Quick overdrive query
Simon.
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From "Michael J. Balch" <mjbalch1 at mchsi.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 17:55:44 -0500
Subject: BN-2 near Chicago
I am considering going to Chicago to look at a BN-2 for sale by a dealer.
Does anyone on the list know anything about this car? If you do, please
respond to me privately. The car is listed on the attached website.
http://www.northshoresportscars.com/
Thanks,
Mike Balch
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 21:11:54 EDT
Subject: Re: A question regarding your 100S project
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + $4.00 S H . SOLD over 1500 copies
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
When I am in a used book store , I always go looking for old , British Car
books.
Sometime ago I found one about LUCAS ignition . The store owner told me he
had had these books 10 years and never sold one , so I purchased his complete
stock .
This book tells just about everything you would need to know about " HOW
IT WORKS ''. For example , the coil - function and troubleshooting ,
distributors , centrifugal and vacuum advance , high performance engines ,
timing light
. electronic ignition , trouble shooting .
The last 41 pages list over 1,000 distributors by part number, model ,
centrifugal advance degrees at three different R.P.M , and at what R.P.M there
is
zero advance .
Copies are available for $ 15.00 + S.H $4.00 U,S. continent .. Norman
Nock -
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 22:00:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive and rear end gearing
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From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 20:37:49 -0700
Subject: Re: fan shroud and fan color
Al Adams
1963 BJ7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Welch" <bobw@gmnameplate.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 9:19 AM
Subject: fan shroud and fan color
> List-
> I have a early BN7 I have had since 1969..3rd owner...very original
> car...not concours but prety much truly original.
> I am getting ready to pull the radiator out over the 4th holiday weekend
and
> put some new (old stock) hoses and on and cleanup the front end and
> generally tidy up the place that are hard to get at with the radiator in
> place. At that time I am planning to paint my radiator and fan
shroud...the
> tank is black and the shroud s/b red..anyone have a color spec on the
> red?...and the fan blades can be cleaned up..here is the rub...as said
> previously I have had the car a good long while and I don't believe the
> engine had been pulled or modified before I had it..the blades are
red..all
> the documentation I have seen or read says they s/b yellow...any idea why
it
> is red? I have no trouble painting it yellow. Is there a color spec
anywhere
> on the yellow that any listers know of?
> Thanks t-for the help..
> Bob Welch / Seattle / 1960 BN7
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 23:47:50 -0400
Subject: RE: Carb question (not Healey but TR6)
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Giroux
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 10:00 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Carb question (not Healey but TR6)
I have not used my TR6 for last 2 years .. When I started it the front carb
(Zenith) had fuel running out of it. Question is it rebuild time , blown
diaphragm ?
Thanks
Michael Giroux
62BT7 (slowly being restored),
71TR6,
81Malibu (daily driver, standard trans 322,000km)
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 00:14:09 EDT
Subject: Re: fan shroud and fan color
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 00:39:31 EDT
Subject: Re: fan shroud and fan color
<< I thought ALL BN7s-BT7s had 100-6 horn pushes? My late one (March 62) came
that way. >>
Do you mean your '62 Big Healey had a horn push that had 100-6 in the horn
push? The non-adjustable wheel version of the 100-6 had a full "100 6" on a
long
lightning bolt. The 3000 with non-adjustable wheel had the same long
lightning bolt minus the "100". It looked similar, but not the same.
Rick
San Diego.
http://members.aol.com/wilko
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 22:09:13 -0700
Subject: Healey Commercial
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 01:17:25 EDT
Subject: Re: fan shroud and fan color
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 07:23:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Quick overdrive query
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 5:10 PM
Subject: Quick overdrive query
> Hi,
> The saga continues..
> I'm busy filleting my OD, so far in situ. Question arises from that:
> Can I remove the solenoid bracket without jacking up the transmission? I
only
> got that far 5 minutes before having to stop and go to work, so all I can
say
> is that it appears that i've got to jack her up. But I've not trid much
yet.
> I want to take out the accumulator to check out the springs, rings and
> whatsits that lurk in there.
> By "bracket", BMC term, I mean the box like thing on which the solenoid
sits
> and into which goes its plunger. (Item 26 "To face F.16" in my parts book
> AKD1151.
>
> Simon.
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 11:22:27 -0400
Subject: BN1 Stator Tube Removal
I suppose a lot of you are at Conclave (wish I was) but hopefully someone
can help. I am attempting to remove the stator tube on my '55 BN1
(non-adjustable steering). I removed the nut at the steering box but the
"olive" appears to be seized to the tube. Does anyone have any tips on how
to remove it without damaging the tube?
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 12:13:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Quick overdrive query
> Hi Simon,
> I know that you are anxious to get your Healey back on the road ASAP
> and working properly. I would highly recommend that you take your time,
> down load the information from the various web sights that were given
> previously, read through them, copy some of the archives O/D info. (there is
> a ton) and then continue with your operation confidently and with a known
> direction. This is a job that you only want to do once because of all the
> little !?!?!? you have to go through to actually tackle the problem at hand.
> Inevitably you may release something and TWANG there goes a valuable part
> that you need and can't continue until you either find it or order a new
> one. This is experience speaking, I learned the hard way.
Thank you for your concern and although I may come across as prepared to
sacrifice everything for speed, this is not the case. I have downloaded just
about
everything possible on the O/d from Del Border's treatise, the Triumph
bulletins and my own extensive archive. I have about 20 pages of diagrams and
articles all behind plastic ring bound into an A4 file. However, I do have a
deadline which I must work towards which is the classic car show at Powderham
down
here in Devon. So, I may be in a hurry, but I'm not hasty.
The problems arise when one peruses the mass of accumulated downloads and the
THREE manuals and the info isn't there, isn't clear, doesn't apply or is
ambiguous. Those are the circumstances in wgich I find myself right now.
Incidentally, I have progressed far enough into my O/D to know that it has
reached the shrapnel stage so I don't need to be too tender with it as it'll be
off for a total rebuild on Monday, assuming I can get the O/D seperated from
the gearbox. See my other mail!
Simon.
> Get the resources in hand first then continue down the road to success.
> Regardless of how simple some of the Listers say an O/D unit is to work on,
> they have the experience of dismantling and reassembling many times and some
> of us don't. I don't care how good the unit looks when you get it back
> together, if you missed an adjustment or installed a part improperly its
> still broken, and your ego is shot.
> So my 2 cents is to get the info. in hand , at your side and do it right
> the first time and take your time.
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 12:27:05 EDT
Subject: Seperating O/D from gear box.
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 13:27:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Seperating O/D from gear box.
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 13:45:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Seperating O/D from gear box.
<< I can't split O/D from gearbox!
Short 4 screw first, then 2 long ones to let off the tension. Comes about 1
inch apart, max, and then no more movement, despite a fair bit of brute
force.
What the h**l do I do to get this thing apart and in the post? >>
I did this once about 20 years ago. I seam to remember twisting the input or
output shaft til it finds the clear way off. There is a cam that can cause
trouble in the way.
The two manuals that I use for service say that the gear box and overdrive
should be removed from the car before separating.
Rick
San Diego.
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 13:48:02 EDT
Subject: Re: fan shroud and fan color
Absolutely correct - lightning flash and "6"; no "100", no "3000". Another
senior moment.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 12:54:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Seperating O/D from gear box.
You did remove the oil pump from the OD, right?
Bob Haskell
British car projects: '60 AH BT-7 MkI, '64 Mini Cooper RHD, and '80 MGB LE
Metalworking projects: '29 SB 9.5 lathe, and Van Norman 1/2 mill
email: bhaskell at iquest.net
Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> You're all being very patient; just keep going a little longer...
> I'm 90% sure that my O/D is dead and full of broken bits..I certainly found
> enough shrapnel inside when I took out the accululator.
> So. it's take it out and send it off to be rebuilt on the principle that the
> sum of the parts is more than the rebuild.
> I intend, primarily for health reasons, to remove O/D with box remaining in
> car. According to Del Border this is as easy or easier. But I've hit a snag
> which would have been same on the bench........I can't split O/D from
>gearbox!
> Short 4 screw first, then 2 long ones to let off the tension. Comes about 1
> inch apart, max, and then no more movement, despite a fair bit of brute force.
> What the h**l do I do to get this thing apart and in the post?
> Thanks,
> Simon.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 12:42:44 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 Stator Tube Removal
The stock olive is split lengthwise so that it can expand to slip off of
the tube. Maybe you can find the split & wedge something thin into it to
expand the olive. If the nut was overtightened, things could be
distorted & bound up. Trying to force things from the top end could
break some expensive parts. If you damage the tube or it is already
damaged, it should be reformed after removal by inserting a snugly
fitting mandrel & tapping/forming & filing the tube back to straight,
smooth, & round.
Michael E. Williams wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I suppose a lot of you are at Conclave (wish I was) but hopefully someone
> can help. I am attempting to remove the stator tube on my '55 BN1
> (non-adjustable steering). I removed the nut at the steering box but the
> "olive" appears to be seized to the tube. Does anyone have any tips on how
> to remove it without damaging the tube?
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 13:24:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Quick change grille was - BN1 Stator Tube Removal
I just thought of something else. It is quite easy to remove the grille
in your car for work on the steering box.
There are five nuts & "funny" washers along the top of the grille.
Remove these & the bottom of the grille just un-plugs. Much easier to
service the steering box, the idler box, & even the front shocks.
I replaced the grille retaining nuts with wing nuts & even left the
center nut off. You can reach in through the wheel opening with one arm
& remove two of the wing nuts from each side. Don't have to jack the car
up, or remove the wheels. Takes about two minutes to remove or replace
the grille.
Dave Russell
BN2
Michael E. Williams wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I suppose a lot of you are at Conclave (wish I was) but hopefully someone
> can help. I am attempting to remove the stator tube on my '55 BN1
> (non-adjustable steering). I removed the nut at the steering box but the
> "olive" appears to be seized to the tube. Does anyone have any tips on how
> to remove it without damaging the tube?
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1
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From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 17:10:47 EDT
Subject: Conclave Concours
George Marinos
Sprites MK II & III
Glen Rock, NJ
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 14:16:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Rendevous Video
French director Claude Lelouch made the 9 minute film in a Ferrari
275GTB (1964-66, 8,000 rpm redline) racing across Paris streets during
early morning dawn. I understand that he later admitted on a talk show
that he was the driver . . . leading the French Department of Motor
Vehicles (or whatever they call it) to take away his driver's license
based on his "public admission."
He tops the Ferrari out along the Champs Elysee. A 275GTB can go 44 mph
in first, 64 mph in second, 87 mph in third, 109 mph in 4th and tops out
at 55 mph in fifth gear.
If you know Paris at all it is much more interesting. He starts the film
on an offramp leading onto Avenue Foch, drives past the Arc de Triumph
and on to Avenue des Champs Elysees. He turns into the Place de la
Concorde and turns left onto the Quai des Tuileries and drives along the
bank of the Seine River. He turns left into the Palaise du Louvre
(Museum) and drives through the Place du Carrousel and out of the Louvre
along Avenue de l'Opera to the Place de l'Opera. He passes the Opera on
the right and drives on Rue de la Chaussee d'Antin to Trinite in Place
d'Estienne. He passes Trinite on the right side and drives on Rue
Pigalle to Place Pigalle where he turns left onto Boulevard de Clichy.
He passes Moulin-Rouge and turns right on Rue Caulaincourt and drives
along the Cimetiere Montmartre. He makes a tight dogleg right onto
Avenue Junot, which curves around to the left into Rue Norvins, which he
follows through the Place du Tertre to the Sacre Coeur (Cathedral)
parking lot.
He hops out of the Ferrari and runs to kiss the lady awaiting him . . .
his bellbottom trousers dating this film back to the 1970's.
Yeah . . . I spent a lot of time with the Paris street map and the VCR's
slow motion button.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 17:32:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Rendevous Video
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 17:48:54 -0400
Subject: RE: BN1 Stator Tube Removal
Thanks again to all!
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 17:50:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Conclave Concours
Hoping for the best,
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
BJ8 & BN2
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 15:05:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Rendevous Video
You are asking someone who still drives a 43-year-old Austin-Healey
about DVDs?!! I finally got my first CD player about 6 months ago when
one of my co-workers was throwing out an "obsolete" 5 disc one.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
Past Governor - Scottish Society of Central California
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 18:19:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Rendevous Video
Bob Denton
GSFuqua1@aol.com wrote:
>So, how is it that we get a copy of this on DVD? Missed that part. Sorry!
>Gary
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 19:44:25 -0700
Subject: Been off list
I have been off the list for about 6 days now. Got infected with a virus (and
a teenage daughter with an attitude). As a result have not been able to send
any mail. The virus seemed to have been doing it for me! Sorry for any
trouble I may have caused.
Through mail2web.com I did manage to read a few and delete a bunch. If anyone
has sent me a personal email since last Sun please resend.
Keith Pennell
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 17:39:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Seperating O/D from gear box.
I agree completely with the lister that said it would be almost impossible
to re-assemble the o/d to the gearbox in the car. But ---------- it should
have come apart reasonably easily - I suspect that the internal damage is at
work here. Whatever you do, don't risk damaging the gearbox mainshaft -
that would necessitate a gearbox re-build as well ---- $$$$$!
I don't know what to suggest other than trying to get the o/d sort of back
onto the adapter casting and removing the gearbox/overdrive as a unit and
proceeding from there, assuming that you would be able to get a bit of help
to do so. You may have to remove the o/d with it's adapter casting in order
to get it off. If you suspect the oil pump, try to extract that first
(don't forget to remove the oil pump check valve pieces first) - it's
possible that the damaged pump or it's driving cam is catching on something,
although my best guess at this point is that the problem is deeper in the
o/d.
I sympathize with your struggle.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 9:27 AM
Subject: Seperating O/D from gear box.
Hi all,
You're all being very patient; just keep going a little longer...
I'm 90% sure that my O/D is dead and full of broken bits..I certainly found
enough shrapnel inside when I took out the accululator.
So. it's take it out and send it off to be rebuilt on the principle that the
sum of the parts is more than the rebuild.
I intend, primarily for health reasons, to remove O/D with box remaining in
car. According to Del Border this is as easy or easier. But I've hit a snag
which would have been same on the bench........I can't split O/D from
gearbox!
Short 4 screw first, then 2 long ones to let off the tension. Comes about 1
inch apart, max, and then no more movement, despite a fair bit of brute
force.
What the h**l do I do to get this thing apart and in the post?
Thanks,
Simon.
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 21:05:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Pulling trans/OD, was separating O/D from gear box.
Since I may be faced with a similar removal, I've been following this thread
with some interest. I'm not as strong or as agile as I used to be, nor do I
have a really good way to lift the car very high, and have wondered if it is
possible to pull the trans/OD from the top. I have plenty of overhead room in
my
garage and can easily construct a hardpoint, spanning two or more trusses,
which will hold several hundred pounds. Anyone have any do's or dont's along
those lines?
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 18:48:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN1 Stator Tube Removal
try to find the slit in the olive and work a small
knife in the slit... that should get it loose.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I suppose a lot of you are at Conclave (wish I was)
> but hopefully someone
> can help. I am attempting to remove the stator tube
> on my '55 BN1
> (non-adjustable steering). I removed the nut at the
> steering box but the
> "olive" appears to be seized to the tube. Does
> anyone have any tips on how
> to remove it without damaging the tube?
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1
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From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 19:53:33 -0700
Subject: Jacking Healeys
Al Adams
1963 BT7
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 21:03:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Pulling trans/OD, was separating O/D from gear box.
Either that or pull the engine with the trans, which is not necessary.
Dave Russell
BN2
RAHosmer@aol.com wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Since I may be faced with a similar removal, I've been following this thread
> with some interest. I'm not as strong or as agile as I used to be, nor do I
> have a really good way to lift the car very high, and have wondered if it is
> possible to pull the trans/OD from the top. I have plenty of overhead room in
>my
> garage and can easily construct a hardpoint, spanning two or more trusses,
> which will hold several hundred pounds. Anyone have any do's or dont's along
> those lines?
>
> Dick Hosmer
> BT7L18556
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 23:27:21 -0400
Subject: RE: Pulling trans/OD, was separating O/D from gear box.
- Disconnect the hand brake cable at the bell crank near the right
side of the axel. (You do this so that you can pull the hand brake
handle up far enough to clear the gearbox cover.
- Remove as much of the interior as possbible - seats, carpets,
parcel shelf, stearing wheel.
- Remove the gearbox cover.
- Disconnect the overdrive harness from the interlock switch next to
the shift lever.
- Remove the clutch slave cylinder.
- Mark the front and rear flanges of the drive shaft and the corresponding
mating flanges on the rear of the gearbox and the rear axel so that you will
be able to line them up correctly on reassembly.
- Remove the drive shaft.
- Unbolt the rear gearbox mounts.
- Support the rear of the engine.
- Remove the starter.
- Remove the bell housing bolts. Two of these are special dowel pins. Make
a note of which holes they go in so that you will get it right when you
reassemble.
- Put a jack under the gearbox.
- Raise the rear of the engine and the gearbox enough so that the back of
gearbox will clear the frame.
- Separate the gearbox from the engine, sliding it back into the tunnel
where the drive shaft was. You may have to rotate it a bit to clear the
fire wall. Slide it back until the input shaft clears the clutch and
throwout bearing.
- Pivot the gearbox to the right until you are able to slide it forward
into the
passenger's side foot well. Once it is clear, turn it sideways so that the
input
shaft points toward the passenger's side door.
- Remove the gearbox from the car.
With practice, you can do this in about three and a half hours.
HTH,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of RAHosmer@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 9:06 PM
To: kags@shaw.ca; Simonlachlan@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pulling trans/OD, was separating O/D from gear box.
Listers,
Since I may be faced with a similar removal, I've been following this thread
with some interest. I'm not as strong or as agile as I used to be, nor do I
have a really good way to lift the car very high, and have wondered if it is
possible to pull the trans/OD from the top. I have plenty of overhead room
in my
garage and can easily construct a hardpoint, spanning two or more trusses,
which will hold several hundred pounds. Anyone have any do's or dont's along
those lines?
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 23:44:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Jacking Healeys
All this depends on where the car is supported by the jacks/jackstands.
I guess one could argue both views on this. Yes, I expect doors closed
gives more strength, but why do you need strength if the car is sitting
still on jackstands?
OTOH if one expects to need to open a door while the car is up on jackstands
the doors should be opened before jacking, otherwise they will likely not
open.
Do not think it is a major issue one way or the other.
Keith Pennell
> A good friend of mine took his BT7 to a Southern California British car
> garage for some minor maintenance and noticed that before they jacked his
> car the mechanic opened the doors. Is this an accepted procedure? If so,
> what is the reason?
> I would think leaving the doors closed would give it more structural
> strength and less flexing.
>
> Al Adams
> 1963 BT7
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 21:37:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Pulling trans/OD, was separating O/D from gear box.
Be careful where and how you support the engine. A two-by-four in the wrong
place can put a crease in an engine pan.
I always found, however, that even though it came out relatively easily, the
hole in the firewall tended to shrink while the trans/OD were removed making
it smaller than the bellhousing thereby offering some resistance when
reinstalling. :-) I decided that the next time the trans/OD needed to
come out, they were coming out with the engine. I find it much easier to
disassemble, work, and reassemble when its all out in front of you with no
restrictions around it. And you can clean up the engine and engine
compartment as a bonus.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <kags@shaw.ca>; <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: Pulling trans/OD, was separating O/D from gear box.
> Listers,
>
> Since I may be faced with a similar removal, I've been following this
thread
> with some interest. I'm not as strong or as agile as I used to be, nor do
I
> have a really good way to lift the car very high, and have wondered if it
is
> possible to pull the trans/OD from the top. I have plenty of overhead room
in my
> garage and can easily construct a hardpoint, spanning two or more trusses,
> which will hold several hundred pounds. Anyone have any do's or dont's
along
> those lines?
>
> Dick Hosmer
> BT7L18556
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 01:51:51 -0400
Subject: hood latch/release mechanism
The hood latch/release mechanism located in front of the radiator is made up of
several parts. The lowest part in the stack is the fixed-hole plate (ADH456,
if you are following along in the Service Parts List or M*** Item no. 47,
470-655 Front Body Fittings). This plate has a downward protrusion on one side
of the hole where the hood latch pin enters. I need to know which side the
protrusion faces. Is it on the rubber covered latch spring side or on the
release pull/lever side?
Ken Mason
BJ7 in work
__________________________________________________________________
McAfee VirusScan Online from the Netscape Network.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 22:59:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Pulling trans/OD, was separating O/D from gear box.
Agreed - gearbox o/d removal is much easier on a Healey than many other
cars - I guess we Healey owners have to win sometimes! Your description is
excellent.
I have never found it necessary to disconnect the e-brake cable - both the
side and centre shift trans covers come off with a bit of coaxing - I'm
trying to recall - e-brake handle down and lifted as the trans cover comes
up, and maybe a bit of pulling of the handle towards the right side of the
car. I've also never removed the prop shaft (unless it has to come out for
other reasons), simply unbolted it and compressed it. It sort of flops
around a bit, and sometimes you have to re-orient the front flange a bit as
the gearbox comes out, but there is room to re and re with the shaft in the
car.
My usual method is to borrow the services of a buddy (this can sometimes
require beer) - one guy under the car supporting the trans under the
bellhouse, the other guy standing inside the car with a rope (I use a piece
of genuine Lucas garden hose) around the rear section of the o/d, pulling
backwards and up as it separates, and then sideways 'till the car body
supports it, then out the door, o/d end first.
As they say, re-installation is the reverse etc. (except don't reverse the
beer!)
Done it many, many times.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 8:27 PM
Subject: RE: Pulling trans/OD, was separating O/D from gear box.
The only way to get the gearbox out is from the top.
It is actually quite straight forward and well described in
the BMC shop manual. Here is a quick summary:
- Disconnect the hand brake cable at the bell crank near the right
side of the axel. (You do this so that you can pull the hand brake
handle up far enough to clear the gearbox cover.
- Remove as much of the interior as possbible - seats, carpets,
parcel shelf, stearing wheel.
- Remove the gearbox cover.
- Disconnect the overdrive harness from the interlock switch next to
the shift lever.
- Remove the clutch slave cylinder.
- Mark the front and rear flanges of the drive shaft and the corresponding
mating flanges on the rear of the gearbox and the rear axel so that you will
be able to line them up correctly on reassembly.
- Remove the drive shaft.
- Unbolt the rear gearbox mounts.
- Support the rear of the engine.
- Remove the starter.
- Remove the bell housing bolts. Two of these are special dowel pins. Make
a note of which holes they go in so that you will get it right when you
reassemble.
- Put a jack under the gearbox.
- Raise the rear of the engine and the gearbox enough so that the back of
gearbox will clear the frame.
- Separate the gearbox from the engine, sliding it back into the tunnel
where the drive shaft was. You may have to rotate it a bit to clear the
fire wall. Slide it back until the input shaft clears the clutch and
throwout bearing.
- Pivot the gearbox to the right until you are able to slide it forward
into the
passenger's side foot well. Once it is clear, turn it sideways so that the
input
shaft points toward the passenger's side door.
- Remove the gearbox from the car.
With practice, you can do this in about three and a half hours.
HTH,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of RAHosmer@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 9:06 PM
To: kags@shaw.ca; Simonlachlan@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pulling trans/OD, was separating O/D from gear box.
Listers,
Since I may be faced with a similar removal, I've been following this thread
with some interest. I'm not as strong or as agile as I used to be, nor do I
have a really good way to lift the car very high, and have wondered if it is
possible to pull the trans/OD from the top. I have plenty of overhead room
in my
garage and can easily construct a hardpoint, spanning two or more trusses,
which will hold several hundred pounds. Anyone have any do's or dont's along
those lines?
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From initiali at attbi.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 06:34:16 +0000
Subject: Re: Pulling trans/OD, was separating O/D from gear box.
Thanks for your input, Kurt
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From daniel white <dwhite4949 at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 11:38:45 -0400
Subject: Facia/fan/fan guard color
> I wouldn't be surprised at a Spruce Green BN1 without the silver oval around
> the instruments. The dash would be Spruce Green, matching the body color.
> Juhn Wheatley's Healey Blue BN1 had a dark blue dash but no silver around
> the insturments. With yours and the other fellows I now know of THREE cars
> with just the color dash -- no silver. I don't know how often this was the
> case, but it seems to be more common than first thought.
>
> As to the fan shroud on 3000s, these were hand painted red. Our Concours
> Guidelines, which have been pretty thoroughly researched on this (as well as
> most al other) area state that the fans were painted RED on 100-six and 3000
> MK I's, built through late 1960. Later MK I's, MK II, and MK III cars all
> had yellow fans.
>
> If someone has a absolutely unequivocably original shoud on a 6-cyl car that
> is painted black, it would be a rare exception. Also, since the radiators
> were probably SPRAYED black, there would have been no need to hand paint the
> fan shield black. If his is hand painted black, it sounds like something
> done by a previous owner over the red that it had when new.
>
I thought Roger's comments would be of interest in light of the recent
discussion re fan/fan guard color.
Dan White
BN7
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 11:55:58 EDT
Subject: Still cannot seperate OD from gear box.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 10:47:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Still cannot seperate OD from gear box.
If the oil pump looks to be in good shape, it's beginning to sound like the
one-way clutch is the culprit. If you wish to continue:
First, try this: Set the whole thing on the floor on the bellhouse end on a
couple of pieces of wood (so the input shaft is not on the floor). Pull up
and down on the o/d while moving the whole thing to and fro in an attempt to
dislodge whatever loose bit of shrapnel is hanging it up, allowing the o/d
to lift right up off of the mainshaft in the normal fashion.
If no luck with that: Try removing the rear section of the o/d from the
front part - it should simply pull off with the annulus assembly intact - no
need to remove the big nut or driving flange (or the speedo drive gear) -
the rebuilder will do all that. Don't be surprised to see bits fall out if
it detatches - there is a thrust washer, rollers, and the clutch cage and
spring that could be well and truly munched.
The planet carrier assembly may or may not come with it, but if the cases
separate, you should be able to see where the damage is. When it finally
comes apart, the gearbox mainshaft is going to have to be carefully
inspected for damage. It probably wouldn't hurt at this point to be
prepared for some gearbox work as well.
Don't know what else to suggest. Aint it fun! By the time you finish,
you're going to know the Laycock overdrive all too well!
Oh yes, the pump valve bolt is likely a Whitworth size, which will usuallly
exchange with one or the other metric sizes.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 8:55 AM
Subject: Still cannot seperate OD from gear box.
The saga continues, but is driving me nuts................
Gearbox is out and on bench.
All bolts between O/D and gear box are out at the correct place.
Accumulator is out and its spring etc.
Pump is out, plus its various bits.
The valve (spring, plunger, ball) that sits through pump and is accessed by
removing the solenoid bracket is out. (And why is that an 11mm size?)
There is nothing left in there that shouldn't be which might be holding it
together.
There is some movement laterally, aroundways as it smoves slightly on the
main shaft, BUT I cannot get it off the main shaft. I've got a gap of about
1.125
inches opened up, but beyond that I cannot go.
I cannot shift the big castellated nut on the flange despite using the
correct socket, a vice and a three foot extension..I was going to take it
apart from
the far end and work my way down.......
The unit is plainly completely b*****ed, as am I right now, so its GOT to go
up north to rebuilder, but preferably not apparently welded to the gearbox.
Am I missing something here?? I've tried the brute force and ignorance bit.
I've more of the latter than the former right now. I really don't think I
can
abuse it any more than I already have without breaking something...
ANY IDEAS welcome.
Simon Lachlan
SimonLachlan@aol.com
Tel 01392-882248
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 14:38:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Facia/fan/fan guard color
Thanks for the information - but - I am the original owner of 3000MkII
BT7L18556, and the fan shroud is hand-painted black. I didn't do it - so - it
was
either done by the factory, or the dealer. My strong recollection is that my
1959 BN7 (which I no longer own - I do have the car number, but not at hand)
was
painted in the same way. Interestingly enough, both were purchased from the
same dealer, Paul Felton British Cars, of Daly City, CA (LONG since defunct).
Dick Hosmer
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 14:43:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Still cannot seperate OD from gear box.
I thought you left out a couple of **, then I remembered you were British,
and changed my guess as to the word :-) Just a bit of humor - figured you
might need a chuckle. Really wish I could help, but you are further down the
trail
than I have been.
Dick Hosmer
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From "Rick Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 14:54:00 -0400
Subject: Photo of Healeys at Larz Anderson
http://24.62.22.62/larz2003.html
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
Millis, MA 02054
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 15:15:06 EDT
Subject: Re: hood latch/release mechanism
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From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at attbi.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 15:31:55 -0400
Subject: RE: Facia/fan/fan guard color
Neal G.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of daniel white
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 11:39 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Facia/fan/fan guard color
Recently I asked Roger Moment about the color of the facia on BN1
models. I also asked him about the color of the fan and fan guard on
the six cylinder cars. He replied and asked that I forward his comments
to the list. Roger replied-
> I wouldn't be surprised at a Spruce Green BN1 without the silver oval
around
> the instruments. The dash would be Spruce Green, matching the body color.
> Juhn Wheatley's Healey Blue BN1 had a dark blue dash but no silver around
> the insturments. With yours and the other fellows I now know of THREE
cars
> with just the color dash -- no silver. I don't know how often this was
the
> case, but it seems to be more common than first thought.
>
> As to the fan shroud on 3000s, these were hand painted red. Our Concours
> Guidelines, which have been pretty thoroughly researched on this (as well
as
> most al other) area state that the fans were painted RED on 100-six and
3000
> MK I's, built through late 1960. Later MK I's, MK II, and MK III cars all
> had yellow fans.
>
> If someone has a absolutely unequivocably original shoud on a 6-cyl car
that
> is painted black, it would be a rare exception. Also, since the radiators
> were probably SPRAYED black, there would have been no need to hand paint
the
> fan shield black. If his is hand painted black, it sounds like something
> done by a previous owner over the red that it had when new.
>
I thought Roger's comments would be of interest in light of the recent
discussion re fan/fan guard color.
Dan White
BN7
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 17:44:28 -0500
Subject: Fog/Driving Lamp Ques.
Thanks, Mark
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From "Jim McDermott" <jmcd206 at msn.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 15:47:13 -0700
Subject: I let the smoke Out!
Jim McDermott
BN4
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 20:29:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Return from Conclave
I would say one of my highlights was the Twilight Tour of DC. They actually
had "sentrys" posted strategically all along the route to make sure we truned
where we should turn. At one intersection near the Capitol, there stood our
guy Michael Oritt waving us on while a DC policeman standing across the street
just smiled.
Thanks again guys and gals!
Tom and Jan Felts
PS--Healey ran perfect over and back even in 98 degree temps.
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From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 18:31:19 -0700
Subject: O/T Austin Manuals
Brian
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 22:32:52 EDT
Subject: Re: I let the smoke Out!
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 00:00:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Return from Conclave
> Just got home to Pittsburgh from Conclave. I want to say a BIG thank you
> to Michael and all the DC group for their tremendous efforts in setting up a
> very successful Conclave.
>
On behalf of the CAAHC--thanks and thanks for being there!
Best--Michael Oritt
(passing out for the night)
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 22:46:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: I let the smoke Out!
Once you've fried a Voltage regulator, you usually
have to replace it... have you done this? If it's so
hot to have melted the cover, the contacts have
probably melted... possibly fused together... which
may be causing your over charging/overheating problem.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jim McDermott <jmcd206@msn.com> wrote:
> Hi list. At the end of last season I lost my
> generator (it ground up its
> insides). I had the generator rebuilt and thought
> all was right with the
> world, but on a short drive afterwards the voltage
> regulator smoked and melted
> (my wife says it caught fire but I only saw smoke
> and a melted cover). Some
> wiring also melted. I spent this winter and spring
> re-wiring the whole car
> and having the generator rebuilt again. I got
> everything buttoned up this
> weekend and started to check things out. lights and
> all electrics seemed to
> work OK so I started it up. Starter Cranked strong
> and the car started right
> away. I have a volt meter in the car and it was
> showing about 16 - 17 volts.
> However, I notice smoke again coming from the
> voltage regulator. I closed
> everything down right away and started feeling for
> hot wires. Everything
> seemed fine. I suspect that the problem is still
> the generator but I do not
> know what to look for to test it. I re checked all
> the wiring color codes and
> everything seems correct. Any thoughts?
>
> Jim McDermott
> BN4
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 01:46:27 -0400
Subject: Re: hood latch/release mechanism
SJNNOCK@aol.com wrote:
>Ken Mason ... ITEM # 147 fits just like the picture you are looking at ,
>edges turned down ,go down , dont think it would work the other way ..Norman
>Nock
>..
>We have photo sets available for most models , for your BJ7 we have 90
>pictures taken from a bare chassis to a finished car , let me know if you are
>interested , lot of detail ..
__________________________________________________________________
McAfee VirusScan Online from the Netscape Network.
Comprehensive protection for your entire computer. Get your free trial today!
http://channels.netscape.com/ns/computing/mcafee/index.jsp?promo=393397
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 10:22:28 -0400
Subject: Carb overflow
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 08:36:49 -0700
Subject: Re: hood latch/release mechanism
----- Original Message -----
From: <MeditionM@netscape.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 10:51 PM
Subject: hood latch/release mechanism
> Listers
> I need a little help. I am putting my BJ7 back together after a couple
years for rust repairs and chassis painting. I took many pictures butb&b&
>
> The hood latch/release mechanism located in front of the radiator is made
up of several parts. The lowest part in the stack is the fixed-hole plate
(ADH456, if you are following along in the Service Parts List or M*** Item
no. 47, 470-655 Front Body Fittings). This plate has a downward protrusion
on one side of the hole where the hood latch pin enters. I need to know
which side the protrusion faces. Is it on the rubber covered latch spring
side or on the release pull/lever side?
> Ken Mason
> BJ7 in work
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From "Jim McDermott" <jmcd206 at msn.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 11:14:11 -0700
Subject: Re: I let the smoke Out!
Jim McDermott
BN4
>From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
>To: "Jim McDermott" <jmcd206@msn.com>
>Subject: Re: I let the smoke Out!
>Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 07:17:15 -0600
>
>Jim,
> No, it sounds to me like the regulator is at fault. It is probably stuck
>in
>full charge mode and overheating to the smoking point. The generator is
>quite dumb and continues to make voltage regardless....Dave
>
>Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
>'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
>http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jim McDermott" <jmcd206@msn.com>
>To: "Austin_Healey Healey_Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 4:47 PM
>Subject: I let the smoke Out!
>
>
> > Hi list. At the end of last season I lost my generator (it ground up
>its
> > insides). I had the generator rebuilt and thought all was right with
>the
> > world, but on a short drive afterwards the voltage regulator smoked and
>melted
> > (my wife says it caught fire but I only saw smoke and a melted cover).
>Some
> > wiring also melted. I spent this winter and spring re-wiring the whole
>car
> > and having the generator rebuilt again. I got everything buttoned up
>this
> > weekend and started to check things out. lights and all electrics
>seemed
>to
> > work OK so I started it up. Starter Cranked strong and the car started
>right
> > away. I have a volt meter in the car and it was showing about 16 - 17
>volts.
> > However, I notice smoke again coming from the voltage regulator. I
>closed
> > everything down right away and started feeling for hot wires.
>Everything
> > seemed fine. I suspect that the problem is still the generator but I do
>not
> > know what to look for to test it. I re checked all the wiring color
>codes
>and
> > everything seems correct. Any thoughts?
> >
> > Jim McDermott
> > BN4
> >
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 15:45:59 -0400
Subject: RE: I let the smoke Out!
The only thing that occurs to me is that you may have neglected to
polarize the generator after fitting..
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim McDermott
Sent: 29-Jun-03 6:47 PM
To: Austin_Healey Healey_Net
Subject: I let the smoke Out!
Hi list. At the end of last season I lost my generator (it ground up
its
insides). I had the generator rebuilt and thought all was right with
the
world, but on a short drive afterwards the voltage regulator smoked and
melted
(my wife says it caught fire but I only saw smoke and a melted cover).
Some
wiring also melted. I spent this winter and spring re-wiring the whole
car
and having the generator rebuilt again. I got everything buttoned up
this
weekend and started to check things out. lights and all electrics
seemed to
work OK so I started it up. Starter Cranked strong and the car started
right
away. I have a volt meter in the car and it was showing about 16 - 17
volts.
However, I notice smoke again coming from the voltage regulator. I
closed
everything down right away and started feeling for hot wires.
Everything
seemed fine. I suspect that the problem is still the generator but I do
not
know what to look for to test it. I re checked all the wiring color
codes and
everything seems correct. Any thoughts?
Jim McDermott
BN4
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 16:22:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Carb overflow
Your situation is pretty common. Both tubes should pass through a rubber
grommet located in the forward area of the carb heat shield. The grommet
has an ID of around 3/8. The tubes then end up in front of the motor mount.
That way as you are traveling down the highway, the overflow gets a chance
to vaporize before being blown back on the hot exhaust mainfold!!! :)
> 2.. Can I use windshield washer hose for this or is there a specific
hose I
> need.
The correct stuff is stiff plastic. I guess you could use Healey WW hose -
it is about the right diameter. Although it is not impervious to fuel, no
more often than it would have fuel through it I guess no problem. Perhaps
you could get it through one of the suppliers or shop around locally to find
it.
Good luck
Keith Pennell
> Any input would greatly be appreciated because the 4th of July is around
the
> corner and I don't want my car to be a Roman Candle.
> Thank You
> Guy G.
> 1963 BJ7
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 21:25:04 +0100
Subject: Re: Monza exhausts
VERY happy Healeying to you all.
Peter Dzwig
PS I thought that someone else used a prancing horse logo - those "damn
red machines" as Tony Vandervell once called them. May be its a horse of
another colour...
Jerry Wall wrote:
>me too, except my chrome tips have a red band to coordinate with the red pin
>stripe between the ivory and black on my BN6 !!
>WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Here's mine:
> >
> > http://members.aol.com/wilko/Freeflow.html
> >
> > Rick
> > San Diego
> >
> > .
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 16:30:38 -0700
Subject: Re: hood latch/release mechanism
The raised portion on my BN7 and BJ8 is downward and toward the spring side.
Hope this helps.
Keith Pennell
> Norman
> Thanks for your reply but the info I asked for has not been answered by
any of the replys. I know the rails on the subject part only mount one way,
but the part can be turned end for end when mounted. The center hole in
this piece has a raised portion extending the same direction as the rails
and is only on one side of the center hole. My question again is on which
side of the assembly is this raised area located? Toward the release pull
or on the other side toward the large rubber sleeve covered spring?
> Thanks
> Ken Mason
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 16:54:46 -0400
Subject: Thank you
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 17:13:31 -0400
Subject: Carb overflow
Go to the Home Depot or such and pick up a few feet of the flexible plastic
underground sprinkler line. The diameter will just fit over the metal carb
overflow tubes, it is stiff plastic, looks original and is black in color.
Works for me!
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 22:44:21 +0100
Subject: Re: I let the smoke Out!
One situation that will cause your symptoms is a permanent connection
between the D and F terminals. What appears to be happening is that the
resistor in the back of the regulator is not being put into the field
circuit when the voltage rises to its correct level. Yours seems to be
going higher than it should causing excess current to be generated.
Check for shorts at all places by disconnecting the wires. Check across
the dynamo D to F. there should not be a connection. Check at the
control box where there should initially be a dead short but then press
down the regulator (not cut - out points). You should then measure a
resistance.
All this to be done with the battery disconnected.
Best of luck
>I checked again this morning before I left for work and all the wiring
>seems to be correct to the voltage regulator( third time I checked).
>However I did find that one of the two brown wires was loose(not under
>the terminal screw very well). The "D" and "F" terminals are not
>reversed as Norm suggested. It is a brand new Voltage regulator after
>the melt down. I will fix the loose wire when I get home and try
>again. Thanks for all the help!
>
>Jim McDermott
>BN4
>
>
>>From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
>>To: "Jim McDermott" <jmcd206@msn.com>
>>Subject: Re: I let the smoke Out!
>>Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 07:17:15 -0600
>>
>>Jim,
>> No, it sounds to me like the regulator is at fault. It is probably
>>stuck in
>>full charge mode and overheating to the smoking point. The generator is
>>quite dumb and continues to make voltage regardless....Dave
>>
>>Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
>>'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
>>http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Jim McDermott" <jmcd206@msn.com>
>>To: "Austin_Healey Healey_Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 4:47 PM
>>Subject: I let the smoke Out!
>>
>>
>> > Hi list. At the end of last season I lost my generator (it ground
>> >
>>its
>> > insides). I had the generator rebuilt and thought all was right
>> >with
>>the
>> > world, but on a short drive afterwards the voltage regulator smoked and
>>melted
>> > (my wife says it caught fire but I only saw smoke and a melted cover).
>>Some
>> > wiring also melted. I spent this winter and spring re-wiring the whole
>>car
>> > and having the generator rebuilt again. I got everything buttoned
>> >
>>this
>> > weekend and started to check things out. lights and all electrics
>>seemed
>>to
>> > work OK so I started it up. Starter Cranked strong and the car started
>>right
>> > away. I have a volt meter in the car and it was showing about 16 - 17
>>volts.
>> > However, I notice smoke again coming from the voltage regulator. I
>>closed
>> > everything down right away and started feeling for hot wires.
>>Everything
>> > seemed fine. I suspect that the problem is still the generator but I do
>>not
>> > know what to look for to test it. I re checked all the wiring
>> >color
>>codes
>>and
>> > everything seems correct. Any thoughts?
>> >
>> > Jim McDermott
>> > BN4
>> >
--
John Harper
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 18:29:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Thank you
The BJ8 Registry records one BJ8 in Manchester Center, Vermont but does not
record the colo(u)r. The owner is not a name I recognize as a participant
on the list, but he has owned the car for a long time. Of course, it could be
several other BJ8s living in Vermont, just passing through Manchester; or it
could be something other than a BJ8.
Hmmmm.......Maybe I shouldn't have replied to your question.......
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Guy Guarino
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 4:54 PM
Subject: Thank you
Thank you to everyone who responded to my carb overflow question. This is
truly a very informative site. OH!!!!!!! Saw a beautiful Red Healey in
Manchester Vermont over the weekend. Anyone own it. Was tempted to do a UEE
but was running late.
Thanks Again,
Guy G.
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 18:51:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Monza exhausts
Bill Scannell
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From "norman cay" <normcay at earthlink.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 16:01:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Side Curtains
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Miller <enginem@earthlink.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 1:45 PM
Subject: Side Curtains
> Wanted:
> Early BN 1 style solid plexiglass side curtains. Illustrated on pg 38
> of Heilig's "Austin- Healey 100&3000". Prefer new but can't find a
> supplier. If used the frames must be in reasonably restorable
> condition. Any leads would be appreciated.
> Doug Miller
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From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 15:55:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Temp ans Oil pressure
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 19:08:51 EDT
Subject: Malcolm Terry
<<Could you send out an announcement to our Bluegrass club mailing list that
Malcolm Terry passed away after a bout with an illness.
This from Jim Frakes last night.>>
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 19:40:26 -0400
Subject: Fw: Temp ans Oil pressure
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Skip Besaw
To: Healey List
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 6:55 PM
Subject: Temp ans Oil pressure
Finally got to drive my to Healey. Unfortunately to a mechanic who is
looking at the brake booster. Drove Higway through Boston then into stop and
go traffic. Oil pressure registered 40 at 60 MPD. Temp 180 at 60 MOH then rose
to 205 in stoppped traffic but never got any higher. Is this OK or should I be
concerned. Car seemed to run great. 1967 BJ8.
Hopefully I'll have it back no later that Thursday morning.
Thabks in advance for help. I did try archieves for this info.
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 18:40:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Temp ans Oil pressure
Healey drivers report temps & pressures all over the map. Oil pressure
depends somewhat on the oil weight that you are using. I would say that
your temp & oil pressure look to be fairly typical. The oil pressure may
go up a bit more at higher engine speeds, if not, don't worry. The temp
is ok as long as it doesn't boil & lose coolant. It's a personal thing,
but I get nervous, for no good reason, if the gage goes much over 205
but it always seems to stop rising about there. Even on long uphills
with the ambient temp at 100. I did add a coolant recovery system for
peace of mind.
Dave Russell
BN2
Skip Besaw wrote:
> Finally got to drive my to Healey. Unfortunately to a mechanic who is
> looking at the brake booster. Drove Higway through Boston then into
> stop and go traffic. Oil pressure registered 40 at 60 MPD. Temp 180
> at 60 MOH then rose to 205 in stoppped traffic but never got any
> higher. Is this OK or should I be concerned. Car seemed to run great.
> 1967 BJ8. Hopefully I'll have it back no later that Thursday morning.
>
>
> Thabks in advance for help. I did try archieves for this info.
>
>
> Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 22:54:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Thank you
Makes you want to skip work on Monday, heh ?
Best Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Don Factor" <don.factor at spectrummg.com>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 23:15:15 -0400
Subject: 100M parts
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 22:19:11 -0600
Subject: Re: 100M parts
I'm not sure what you are getting at. The original 100M or specifically
the Lemans cold air box had nothing but a four inch hose clamped around
the air box & extended forward to just behind the grille. No screen, no
filter, no nuthin. They don't have dust in England, it's too wet. There
was a recent discussion about filters for this setup. Start here:
http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200305/msg00470.html
Dave Russell
BN2
Don Factor wrote:
> Does anyone have a source for 100 m parts.?...specifically I'm
> looking for the assembly and air filter set up that attatches to the
> cold air box Regards DF BJ8 (red lobster)
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 01:28:42 EDT
Subject: End of O/D and its woes
I never heard a serious crunchy/bang noise.
I never had a braking effect.
I never knew that it was jammed in O/D when I was in reverse, though it's
probable.
If your O/D makes you suspicious, check it out ASAP, unless you're richer
than I am.
Simon.
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 01:54:35 -0400
Subject: Hood latch mechanism final
Ken Mason
BJ7 in work
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