healeys
[Top] [All Lists]

RE: Screwed on the Internet

Subject: RE: Screwed on the Internet
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 08:17:11 -0500
Tom


> [Original Message]
> From: Rick Neville <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>; spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2/29/04 7:39:56 PM
> Subject: Screwed on the Internet
>
> After my paean to Spring, you'd probably think all is
> just swell in Healeyland.  Not so, Healey friends. 
> You may remember I purchased a Healey-Jamaican over
> the internet a few months ago.  The bottom line is I
> was defrauded and I'm probably out $2,500. The car was
> advertised on eBay.  Because of what I do for a
> living, I tend not to be the most trusting of people,
> but I let my guard down in this case and was taken to
> the cleaners. I don't want to go into details, because
> it's painful, but I've seen lots of postings from
> people who say they've had nothing but great
> experiences on eBay.  Maybe so, but there's a lot of
> jerks out there waiting to rip you off.  Nobody's
> going hungry in my household over this.  Frankly, I
> don't have any words of advice for you how to avoid
> getting taken.  Maybe one, if you use a Discover card
> on PayPal, they won't reimburse you for non-delivery
> of an item, although I understand Visa and Mastercard
> will (ask me how I know, and double check for yourself
> to make sure) Personally, this is the last time I'll
> try to buy anything over the internet.  I'm pretty
> upset and have been kicking my own butt over this,
> because my experiences with people in the car hobby
> over the years has been overwhelmingly positive and
> it's not fun having to try to track somebody down over
> something you do for a hobby.  Bottom line, if you
> can't afford to lose the money, don't buy unless you
> have the goods in your hot little hands.
>
> Unhappy Healeying,
> Rick 





From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 08:44:54 -0500
Subject: RE: Screwed on the Internet


| Bad news!!  I feel for you.  Any chance you could furnish a few more
| details?
|
| Tom
|
|





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 09:36:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Screwed on the Internet

Watch it in there!

tom



> |





From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 09:47:54 -0600
Subject: Re:   V1 #1085


> In a message dated 2/29/04 4:42:59 PM, owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net
> writes:
>
>
> >     You have, if Grace was involved, understandably misidentified
> > the car since you were probably paying more attention to the blonde. It
> > was a Sunbeam Talbot Alpine from the early fifties, predecessor to the
> > more familiar Sunbeam Alpine from the sixties.  The movie was 'To catch
> > a thief' http://www.wmspear.com/STA/
> >
> Let's get this straight -- Tippi Hedren, The Birds, Aston Martin DB3
> Grace Kelly, To Catch a Thief, Sunbeam Alpine (often misnamed Sunbeam
Talbott
> Alpine)
> Oh, and Kim Novak, Vertigo, Jaguar Mark IX
> All, of course, by Hitchcock, who was a British car lover.
> Gary Anderson





From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 11:07:01 EST
Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20=A0=20V1=20#1085?=


> i think the Aston was a 2/4 convertable or drophead.
> wasn't the DB3 just a racing model, re: Carroll Shelby's LeMans
> winner??(DB3/S?)
> 

Sorry; was thinking of the DB Mark III, but it may also have been a DB2/4 
from sight -- They're very little different (Mark III had a little more 
horsepower).
Cheers
Gary





From "GuyMark Studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 11:10:56 -0500
Subject: steering wheel





From "Bluechipracing" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 12:07:11 -0500
Subject: Re: steering wheel

Can't help with the non-locking.

Jim

Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "GuyMark Studios" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 11:10 AM
Subject: steering wheel


> Good Morning All,
> Does the Steering Wheel Clamping Nut on the adjustable type unlock clock
wise
> or counter clockwise and because mine seems to be seezed up wha tis the
> recommended way of loosening it without damaging it. Also, when I did have
it
> loosened and I locked it with the steering wheel pushed all the way in, it
did
> not lock it in position. It still slides in and out. Any suggestions?
> Guy G.
> 63 BJ7





From WilKo at aol.com
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 12:09:06 EST
Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20=A0=20V1=20#1085?=

http://www.marreyt-classics.com/autosdetail.cfm?ID=208

Rick
San Diego

In a message dated 3/1/04 8:08:59 AM, Editorgary@aol.com writes:


> > i think the Aston was a 2/4 convertable or drophead.
> > wasn't the DB3 just a racing model, re: Carroll Shelby's LeMans
> > winner??(DB3/S?)
> >
> 
> Sorry; was thinking of the DB Mark III, but it may also have been a DB2/4
> from sight -- They're very little different (Mark III had a little more
> horsepower).
> Cheers
> Gary





From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 08:56:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter

Real good point - I remember the earlier discussions on this list.  It's
hard for me to believe that the oil in my engine was unfiltered - the engine
was found to be in outstanding condition internally after the 100K + miles
on that filter adapter - (120K miles on the first rebuild)

The engine is being assembled by my engine builder today - I'll be having a
real close look at the filter adapter assembly later today, and will report
my findings back to this list.  I'll also have a look for the original
packaging that the adapter came in (which I'm sure that I still have
somewhwere) to see if that will shed any light on the situation.

Appreciate your warning.

Earl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'Earl Kagna'" <kags@shaw.ca>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>; "Healey
List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 8:38 AM
Subject: RE: Spin-on oil filter adapter


Earl,
I feel that all early Moss adapters that still use the Healey filter head
should be thrown out or examined very carefully. Last year, I figured out
that mine was defective in the location of the oil passage way holes so
there was never any actual filtering going on. I found this after reading an
earlier post on this list. Search the archives. I had unfiltered oil for 15
years or so.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: Earl Kagna [mailto:kags@shaw.ca]
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 11:29 AM
To: BJ8Healeys; Healey List
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter


Steve:

I also have the earlier right-angle style spin-on filter adapter from Moss
on my BJ8, installed approximately 1987 as well.  I think I may even have
the original packaging somewhere - I'll have to have a look.

The car is currently undergoing a full restoration, including it's 2nd
engine re-build - when the engine was dismantled at approx. 120K miles a
couple of months ago, it was found to be in excellent condition, and there
were no apparent problems with the filter adapter.  It will go right back
on - I'll have a good close look at at again as it is assembled.

If you're worried about it, simply carry all the bits that were removed with
you in the boot, along with an original type filter, as I did for years
before finally leaving it at home the last little while.  Rule of thumb with
old British cars,  if you're actually carrying the spare part, you will
probably never need it!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 8:58 AM
Subject: Spin-on oil filter adapter


Hello, Healeyphiles -

A few days ago, Graham Vink mentioned that he had experienced a structural
failure of the Moss spin-on oil filter adapter while driving, and consequent
zero oil pressure.  In my correspondence with Graham, I learned that the
adapter that failed was the earlier style that has a right-angle head and
holds the spin-on filter in the same orientation as the original canister
filter.  Most of the adapters I have seen recently hold the filter
perpendicular to the block.

I have the right-angle head adapter, and it has been installed on my BJ8
since
1987 and 60K miles without any problem, but Graham's experience concerns me.
Has anyone else had problems with this type of adapter?

Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA





From "Jim Lesher" <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 12:37:52 -0500
Subject: Enclosed transport from East Coast to Seattle

_________________________________________________________________
Watch high-quality video with fast playback at MSN Video. Free! 





From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 10:02:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Grace Kelly's Alpine-caution: nitpick ahead

It was based on the Sunbeam-Talbot. Talbot was an old-line manufacturer
simultaneously in both Britain and France. It amalgamated with Sunbeam and
Darraq in the STD combine of the early 1920s.

Pre and postwar Talbot-Lagos were a relative in that the French factory had
been sold to a guy named Tony Lago. So you had the same name on two
completely different cars.

I referred to an early Batsford paperback _The Sports Car_, by John
Stanford, 1962, and it had a mention of the Sunbeam-Talbot part of the
Rootes Group bringing out the new Alpine roadster--meaning the latter
incarnation with the tailfins. From this it would seem Sunbeam-Talbot Alpine
was correct for Grace Kelly's car in "To Catch a Thief".

But I'll bet everyone just called them Sunbeam Alpines until it later became
necessary to distinguish them from the tailfin jobs. Sort of like the
after-the-fact designation of the 3000 Mark 1.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6





From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 10:04:52 -0800
Subject: Further Hitchcock Brit Car trivia

I believe it's an Invicta. Can't remember if it's a 4-seater--I think so.
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6





From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 10:43:48 -0800 
Subject: RE: BJ8 Windshield Bracket





From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <tomkayb at verizon.net>
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 14:00:51 -0500
Subject: Healey Sighting





From "Malaney, David W" <DavidWMalaney at eaton.com>
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 15:30:57 -0500
Subject: Door hinge shims

Dave
61 BN7





From "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb at verizon.net>
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 16:19:52 -0500
Subject: Healey Sighting





From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 17:11:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter

I too have an right angle adapter on the BJ8.  Purchased it mid 80s from
Victoria British.  Long story to it but never have been able to find any
more like it and I tried pretty hard once.  The filter cart angles toward
the starter and clears it by 1/8.  Cart is Purolator L20195.  Had to make a
1/2 thick Al spacer for the cart to clear the sump flange.  Never had any
probs with it.

Does yours have any brand or identifying marks or numbers on it?  Mine does
not.

The BN7 has a right angle adaptor made form a Purolator assembly and has
worked fine for 4 years.  Anybody out there got those lying around you wish
to part with?

Keith Pennell


> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> A few days ago, Graham Vink mentioned that he had experienced a structural
> failure of the Moss spin-on oil filter adapter while driving, and
consequent
> zero oil pressure.  In my correspondence with Graham, I learned that the
> adapter that failed was the earlier style that has a right-angle head and
> holds the spin-on filter in the same orientation as the original canister
> filter.  Most of the adapters I have seen recently hold the filter
> perpendicular to the block.
>
> I have the right-angle head adapter, and it has been installed on my BJ8
since
> 1987 and 60K miles without any problem, but Graham's experience concerns
me.
> Has anyone else had problems with this type of adapter?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve Byers





From "Adrian Boelen" <boelena at sympatico.ca>
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 18:00:13 -0500
Subject: RE: Further Hitchcock Brit Car trivia

Adrian Boelen
HBJ8L/38125

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Gerow
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 1:05 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Further Hitchcock Brit Car trivia

What is the sports car Laurence Olivier drives in Rebecca (1939)?

I believe it's an Invicta. Can't remember if it's a 4-seater--I think
so.
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6





From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 18:12:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting


| Law and Order is filmed in New York City. Anyone on the list know these
| belong to?
| 
| John Sims, BN6
| Aberdeen, NJ
| 
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
| To: "Austin Healey Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
| Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 4:19 PM
| Subject: Healey Sighting
| 
| 
| | Did any catch the Law and Order TV show on Friday.
| | They were investigating an Aston Martin being involved in a murder.
| | At the car repair shop you could see two Austin Healeys.  The green one
| | looked
| | like a BN4 and the other one looked like a BJ7 or 8.
| | Anyone have any more details?
| | ________________
| | Happy Healeying
| | Tom Blaskovics
| | AHCUSA,ACHA
| | BJ7 Registry
| | HBJ7L/22380
| | Morgantown, WV
| |
| |
| 





From "Adrian Boelen" <boelena at sympatico.ca>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 19:41:18 -0500
Subject: RE: Grace Kelly's Alpine-caution: nitpick ahead

        If however Grace was driving spatless, it might have been a
non-Talbot Alpine and this string has LEGS, as did she.
 
Adrian Boelen
BJ8L/38125
Montreal
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Gerow
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 1:02 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Re: Grace Kelly's Alpine-caution: nitpick ahead

I do not believe it was misnamed Sunbeam-Talbot Alpine. Talbott is not
correct by the way--isn't that how the racing mirror was/is spelled?

It was based on the Sunbeam-Talbot. Talbot was an old-line manufacturer
simultaneously in both Britain and France. It amalgamated with Sunbeam
and
Darraq in the STD combine of the early 1920s.

Pre and postwar Talbot-Lagos were a relative in that the French factory
had
been sold to a guy named Tony Lago. So you had the same name on two
completely different cars.

I referred to an early Batsford paperback _The Sports Car_, by John
Stanford, 1962, and it had a mention of the Sunbeam-Talbot part of the
Rootes Group bringing out the new Alpine roadster--meaning the latter
incarnation with the tailfins. From this it would seem Sunbeam-Talbot
Alpine
was correct for Grace Kelly's car in "To Catch a Thief".

But I'll bet everyone just called them Sunbeam Alpines until it later
became
necessary to distinguish them from the tailfin jobs. Sort of like the
after-the-fact designation of the 3000 Mark 1.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
!





From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 19:43:39 EST
Subject: Oil pressure/water temperature guage





From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 19:47:25 EST
Subject: Re: Grace Kelly's Alpine-caution: nitpick ahead

Rick
San Diego

P.S. The Internet is way bigger than this mail list *< ; )





From Rick Neville <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 16:54:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

Rick
  


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Get better spam protection with Yahoo! Mail.
http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools





From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 20:16:07 EST
Subject: Re: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

Thanks for being candid with the lurid details - perhaps it will help someone 
else. With perfect Monday morning hindsight, and all humility, you really DID 
do a LOT of things wrong. (1) In a lot of ways, Ebay SUCKS, but cutting them 
out wasn't wise. (2) For that kind of money, escrow is a MUST - if the seller 
won't accept it, there HAS to be something wrong. (3) I'm sure someone on the 
list could have checked the car for you - maybe even acted in your behalf to 
some degree.  (4) The old saying about a deal being too good to be true . . . . 
. . . certainly applies here.

Hopefully you can prosecute the SOB. There has to have been a LOT of fraud 
here, if you have all your records. Also, I'm not an attorney, but are you SURE 
you have no further recourse against Discovery and/or Paypal (which ALSO SUCKS 
- most people won't use them). Wrong is wrong, and their (very short) 
"statute of limitations" MAY be just their first line against 
nuisance/frivolous 
claims. Tell them you mean business.

Good luck!!!

Dick Hosmer





From HealeyBN7 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 20:41:34 EST
Subject: Re: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

First of all, my condolences to Rick.  I know it's too little too late, but I 
would like to share a potential transaction method to those who might think 
about selling (or buying) their vehicles over the internet in the future.  
Especially if you are sending funds to someone and having a vehicle shipped, 
where 
you can't do the transaction in person.  I recently sold a car over the 
internet (across the country), and credit the buyer with coming up with a 
fairly 
"secure" transaction arrangement for the both of us.  Simply put, we went thru 
escrow.com.  No financial interest, etc, etc. unfortunately.  In fact, I 
believe that you will see the escrow.com advert on the eBay automotive site.  
It 
worked out well for me.  Once a price has been agreed upon, the buyer sends the 
funds to escrow.com, who then sends the seller (me in this case) an e-mail 
stating that they have received the funds and that they are secure and are 
being 
held pending my sending the vehicle to the seller and him accepting it.  I then 
sent the vehicle to the buyer (he arranged and paid for transport), and sent 
the title separately.  Once the buyer receives the vehicle and the title, he 
has it inspected (if he wishes) and then if he accepts the vehicle, notifies 
escrow.com to release the funds to me.  Escrow.com charges a fee for this 
service, and that's how they make their money.  They transferred the funds 
directly 
into my bank account.  It would seem to be in their best interest to try to 
avoid fraud.  Bad for business.  The buyer and I split the fee.  Worked out 
great and was worth the fee.
So, here's one possible solution to those considering buying or selling a 
vehicle on-line: eBay or other.  However, and sadly, there is always someone 
out 
there looking for a way around the system.  Makes you wonder doesn't it?  Bad 
karma for sure. 

Dave





From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 19:41:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

<<My goal now is to get this guy prosecuted and I've
been in touch with the California authorities.
>>

VERY next step IS the FBI!!  Involves INTER State transactions AND (maybe)
wire fraud!!

Article in Chi. Trib. in just the past day or so about same "sorta"
thing(s).

FBI is NOT happy and IS serious.

Rick





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 17:56:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter

I had one of these early spin on adaptors from Moss -
I used it for about 3,000 miles or so before I figured
out it wasn't filtering my oil.  I was able to figure
that out because at that time I had a very loose, worn
engine and my oil was turning black within 50 miles of
changing the oil.  I knew something was wrong so...

At the next change I pulled the thing out and gave it
a very close look, and realized the oil completely
bypassed the filter.  It was going through these holes
in the mount bolt and simply making a beeline for the
gap in between the old felt-filter back plate and the
tecalemit filter mount.  It didn't even go into the
filter and there was no way to fix this problem - it
was a design flaw.  

I was shocked that someone would sell something so
completely dodgy and that was one of the things that
started me on the path of looking for sources of parts
other than M***.  Of course I understand M*** is much
better these days (this was 15 years ago I bought this
part) but I have ended up using Healey Specialists for
most of my parts buying... no need to go back to M***
anymore.  At least I know the specialists will have
alot of the problems with parts worked out, in my book
that's worth the premium of doing business with them.

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8





From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 20:59:32 EST
Subject: Re: Oil pressure/water temperature guage

My BJ8 water temperature gauge started reading low on the way to Southeastern 
Classic last year. It would indicate 120 degrees when I would have expected 
160 degrees.  Finally it quit working all together.

I found that the John Bull strap had come off the capillary tube and allowed 
the tube to move about and make intermittent contact with the Overdrive 
Throttle switch electrical connection. The electrical short managed to make a 
perfect weld on the tube sealing the tube shut. 

Expensive little mistake.............

Thanks,

Jim Werner
Louisville, KY





From Rick Neville <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 18:18:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Screwed On the Internet - The Details -More

Thanks,
Rick

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Get better spam protection with Yahoo! Mail.
http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools





From "Big Sixer" <healey at ledwith.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 23:01:18 -0500
Subject: BJ7/BJ8 Windshield Center bolt - ??

Ryan
64 BJ7





From "Big Sixer" <healey at ledwith.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 23:03:47 -0500
Subject: radiator stop-cock leaking - help!

Ryan
BJ7





From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 23:46:40 -0500
Subject: Re: didn't get to start engine, possible wiring problems, need 

 Traced wires to the voltage regulator and this is where I think there is a
problem.  I checked the wiring diagram in the shop manual and the colors in
> my harness and the colors on the schematic do not quite jive.  My harness
has 9
>
> wires at the voltage reg.
> 1. brown with a blue stripe (fat),
> 2. brown (fat)
> 3. brown (thin)
> 4. yellow (fat)
> 5. yellow (thin)
> 6. yellow with green strip
> 7, 8. black with ground loop
> 9. black
>
> I almost went blind looking at this but the colors in the shop manual
diagram
> are brown/green, brown/yellow, brown/yellow, brown, brown, brown, brown,
black,
>
> black, black,
> My question is: When looking right at the voltage regulator on the
bulkhead,
> reading left to right, what is the correct order for these wires in my
harness
> to attach to the voltage regulator?
> That is, E, D, WL, F, B.

I don't know what shop manual diagram you have but the terminals on the
Lucas RB106/1 regulator on a BJ7 should read from left to right:
A1, A, F, D, E.
The wire connections should be:
-fat brown with blue wire to A1
-two brown wires to A
-yellow with green wire to F
-two yellow wires to D
-black wire to E, and its attached black eye terminal goes under the right
side regulator mounting screw which sends the black straight to ground
(earth)

>
> Lastly, I think that I have it figured out, but which wires go to the
starter
> button and which to the ign. key switch?
Starter button gets 2 white wires into the one terminal and one white with
red wire to the other terminal.
Ignition key switch gets 2 white wires to the one terminal and one brown
with blue wire to the other terminal.

It's all in the manual's wiring diagrams.
Rich Chrysler
> Thanks a lot in advance!!!!!!
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.





From <Ian.Harrison at csiro.au>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 15:48:53 +1100
Subject: Front suspension springs

Could someone please tell me the specifications of an original BN4 -BJ8 coil 
spring, particularly number of turns, unweighted length, dia of wire, and any 
methods of test, ie, compression pressure/length, ride height/length etc, etc

Many thanks

Ian





From <Ian.Harrison at csiro.au>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 16:26:42 +1100
Subject: Front suspension springs

apparently there are 3 different springs for the models that I have Identified 
BN4-BJ8.
Specifically I'm interested in a BN4, but for example, if another model spring 
would raise or lower a BN4 then this would be interesting to know as well as 
the technical specifications and any applicable testing methods that are known 
or available 
Many thanks
Ian





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 21:52:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: radiator stop-cock leaking - help!

the spring you used probably isn't strong enough.  The
stop cock works best when the tapered cock is
basically forced into the valve body by the spring. 
You need a firm spring to do that.  making sure the
mating surfaces are cleaned and free of pits also
helps here.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- Big Sixer <healey@ledwith.com> wrote:
> I rebuilt the stopcock and cleaned it up, put in a
> new spring and figured I
> was on my way.
> Now it leaks through the valve (not around the
> threads).
> Any suggestions? Anyone had this problem?
> 
> Ryan
> BJ7





From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 21:50:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter

Had a good look today at my spin-on oil filter adapter - the earlier angled
version that places the spin-on cartridge in the same plane as the original.
The adapter is still mounted to the filter head - the whole works was
unbolted from the block as one assembly.  I may take it completely apart to
inspect everything later.

A long inspection today, as well as a discussion with my engine builder, has
determined that it has to have been functioning as intended - the oil has to
have been filtered, the engine was in excellent shape internally when
dismantled after 100K= miles on that filter adapter.  Roy is truly a Healey
expert - has rebuilt close to 200 Healey engines over the course of his
career, and has installed several spin-on adapter kits with no problems - I
trust his opinions and experience completely.

After a considerable search through all my Healey stuff, (and a couple of
fortifying vodkas to aid me), I have found the baggie and instructions, plus
all the other bits of the kit that were for use in other cars.  The baggie
says 'MOCAL Oil Control Systems' with a UK address.  The instruction sheet
(Moss Motors Logo) says the kit - Moss P/N 635-818 - is for use on 100-6 and
3000 with the Tecalemit oil filter head .  (The sheet specifies that the kit
can't be used with the 'Purolator' oil filter head that was supplied on some
Healey six cyl. cars.)

It's pretty simple as installed - the adapter plate itself, an extension
bolt threaded into the original filter head, an adapter mounting bolt
threaded through the adapter plate into the extension bolt to which the
spin-on cartridge mounts.  A sealing ring is used in the original groove in
the filter head, as well as an o-ring to seal the adapter mounting bolt.
(Alan, the old felt filter back plate is not used with this kit - the
adapter plate is sealed to the filter head with the two sealing rings).
There is simply no place for the oil to go except through the filter,
exactly as it was designed to do - neat, nifty, and simple.  All passages
are clear and open with an air test.  The spin-on cartridge I use has an
anti-drainback valve built in - I can furnish the Fram or NAPA numbers if
anyone needs it.

I'm beginning to think that Moss likely had many (or at least more than one)
source for these kits at the time, and that could well be the problem - ie;
some others may not have worked as designed, or maybe there were confusing
installation instructions and people got it wrong.  I am curious as to what
major failure Graham had - the thing looks like one would have to almost
drive over it with a tank to break it.

I can't find the original invoice for the unit, so I am guessing at the date
of purchase - I would think 1985, possibly a bit later.  Since I have
recently joined the modern age and sprung for a digital camera, I could
possibly get a couple of photos of the unit so that others could compare to
see if there are different versions of this kit out there.  I don't have
most of the engine bits at home yet - most of the assembly was completed
today.  The oil filter assembly will likely not be mounted until the engine
is painted and installed in the car, so I can play with it on the bench for
quite a while.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8





----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>; "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>;
"BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter


Earl -

I had one of these early spin on adaptors from Moss -
I used it for about 3,000 miles or so before I figured
out it wasn't filtering my oil.  I was able to figure
that out because at that time I had a very loose, worn
engine and my oil was turning black within 50 miles of
changing the oil.  I knew something was wrong so...

At the next change I pulled the thing out and gave it
a very close look, and realized the oil completely
bypassed the filter.  It was going through these holes
in the mount bolt and simply making a beeline for the
gap in between the old felt-filter back plate and the
tecalemit filter mount.  It didn't even go into the
filter and there was no way to fix this problem - it
was a design flaw.



Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 21:56:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: didn't get to start engine, possible wiring problems, need 

Sounds like to me you have a BJ-8 harness.  BJ-7
harnesses are different because the use the old style
voltage regulator.  The BJ8 uses the RB340, which is a
newer model.  

If the wire to the fuel pump is too short, then you
know you have an early BJ8 harness.  The fuel pump on
the BJ7 is on the left hand side of the car, the BJ8
fuel pump is on the right hand side (I think).

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- Rich C <richchrysler@quickclic.net> wrote:
> Randy,
> You wrote: <snip>
> 
>  Traced wires to the voltage regulator and this is
> where I think there is a
> problem.  I checked the wiring diagram in the shop
> manual and the colors in
> > my harness and the colors on the schematic do not
> quite jive.  My harness
> has 9
> >
> > wires at the voltage reg.
> > 1. brown with a blue stripe (fat),
> > 2. brown (fat)
> > 3. brown (thin)
> > 4. yellow (fat)
> > 5. yellow (thin)
> > 6. yellow with green strip
> > 7, 8. black with ground loop
> > 9. black
> >
> > I almost went blind looking at this but the colors
> in the shop manual
> diagram
> > are brown/green, brown/yellow, brown/yellow,
> brown, brown, brown, brown,
> black,
> >
> > black, black,
> > My question is: When looking right at the voltage
> regulator on the
> bulkhead,
> > reading left to right, what is the correct order
> for these wires in my
> harness
> > to attach to the voltage regulator?
> > That is, E, D, WL, F, B.
> 
> I don't know what shop manual diagram you have but
> the terminals on the
> Lucas RB106/1 regulator on a BJ7 should read from
> left to right:
> A1, A, F, D, E.
> The wire connections should be:
> -fat brown with blue wire to A1
> -two brown wires to A
> -yellow with green wire to F
> -two yellow wires to D
> -black wire to E, and its attached black eye
> terminal goes under the right
> side regulator mounting screw which sends the black
> straight to ground
> (earth)
> 
> >
> > Lastly, I think that I have it figured out, but
> which wires go to the
> starter
> > button and which to the ign. key switch?
> Starter button gets 2 white wires into the one
> terminal and one white with
> red wire to the other terminal.
> Ignition key switch gets 2 white wires to the one
> terminal and one brown
> with blue wire to the other terminal.
> 
> It's all in the manual's wiring diagrams.
> Rich Chrysler
> > Thanks a lot in advance!!!!!!
> >
> > Randy Dickson
> > Healey Archaeologist
> > 63 BJ-7
> > Sturgeon Bay, WI.





From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 01:03:26 EST
Subject: Re: Front suspension springs

Rick
San Diego.

In a message dated 3/1/04 9:28:17 PM, Ian.Harrison@csiro.au writes:


> Hi all,
> 
> apparently there are 3 different springs for the models that I have 
> Identified BN4-BJ8.
> Specifically I'm interested in a BN4, but for example, if another model 
> spring would raise or lower a BN4 then this would be interesting to know as 
>well 
> as the technical specifications and any applicable testing methods that are 
> known or available
> Many thanks
> Ian





From "Lynda Lawrence" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 00:20:31 -0700
Subject: Re: didn't get to start engine, possible wiring problems, need 

Bill Lawrence


On Mar 1, 2004, at 10:56 PM, Blue One Hundred wrote:

> Randy -
>
> Sounds like to me you have a BJ-8 harness.  BJ-7
> harnesses are different because the use the old style
> voltage regulator.  The BJ8 uses the RB340, which is a
> newer model.
>
> If the wire to the fuel pump is too short, then you
> know you have an early BJ8 harness.  The fuel pump on
> the BJ7 is on the left hand side of the car, the BJ8
> fuel pump is on the right hand side (I think).
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 00:25:02 -0700
Subject: Re: radiator stop-cock leaking - help!

You are certainly correct. Another thing that sometimes helps is to lap 
the two parts together with a bit of fine lapping compound.

Dave Russell

Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Ryan -
> 
> the spring you used probably isn't strong enough.  The
> stop cock works best when the tapered cock is
> basically forced into the valve body by the spring. 
> You need a firm spring to do that.  making sure the
> mating surfaces are cleaned and free of pits also
> helps here.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Alan





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 00:35:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ7/BJ8 Windshield Center bolt - ??

Boy, you should have read yesterday's list, someone
had the exact same question!

Here is my response.  The nut is actually made out of
rubber and is called a "well nut".  It expands when it
is compressed, fixing the nut in place.  Here is what
I wrote yesterday:


Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 20:25:08 -0800 (PST) 
From: "Blue One Hundred"
<international_investor@yahoo.com>  Add to Address
Book 
Subject: Re: BJ8 Windshield Bracket 
To: Meemeb@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net 
      
 


Bernie -

There's a special little rubber toggle-action bolt
that fits in the hole in the dash and then a
bolt/screw goes from the top into that rubber piece.

Moss shows the little rubber nut, but it doesn't list
it in stock.

I know that british car specialists carries this
item... and Hemphills probably does too.

www.britishcarspecialists.com

I may be wrong, but I don't think it's absolutely
necessary to mount this up... and I think is meant
mostly to prevent water leakage on the bottom seal...
but the bottom seal works well without this bolt (at
least in my BJ8 it does).

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8



--- Meemeb@aol.com wrote:
> I am replacing the windshield on my BJ8 and there is
> a small grey colored 
> bracket in the center of the lower part of the
> windshield frame that aligns with 
> a hole in the shroud.   Is this bracket supposed to
> be bolted to the shroud to 
> provide more support for the windshield?  I can't
> see a way to get a bolt and 
> nut to the hole in shroud in order to attach to the
> bracket on the windshield 
> to the shroud.  Can anyone give me some advice on
> the purpose of this bracket 
> and how to attach to the shroud?
> Bernie
> 1966 BJ8 

 

--- Big Sixer <healey@ledwith.com> wrote:
> I'm attaching the windshield to the chassis and am
> trying to figure out what
> the original bolt / nut assembly is supposed to be.
> The bolt is easy - HZS0406 - 1/4" shank 3/4" long
> the nut is harder: AHB9794 - ??
> The picture of the nut is longer than a typical nut.
> I'm wondering what it is
> supposed to be. Any ideas?
> Anyone have an extra one? :)
> 
> Ryan
> 64 BJ7





From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 19:28:16 +1000
Subject: Transmission installation

  a.. There's been a bit of an on and off thread about this recently. I've
just reinstalled the transmission in the Ward Special (BN1) solo, on the
garage floor, and with a fixed roof to get in the way. It took about an hour
from lifting the transmission into the car to having it mated up with the
engine. I thought this was pretty good as I'm not the most patient individual.
Things that made it esier were:


  b.. Remove steering wheel and handbrake lever
  c.. Put in transmission from right hand side (driver's side for us in Oz)
This is because the bellhousing extension for the starter bendix has to go in
and around the firewall first
  d.. 2 trolley (floor) jacks, one under the sump and one under the
transmission. I tied a block of wood with a "v" cut in it to the jack pad with
wiring ties to stop the gearbox rolling around
  e.. Some pieces of wood of various thicknesses to support the overdrive and
to allow height adjustment
  f.. With the above, the gearbox can be lined up approximately with the
engine. I jacked up the engine enough for there to be a bit of a slope
downwards - gravity helps!
  g.. Probably the thing that made it relatively easy rather than a fight (and
here's where the patience comes in!) was to measure the gap between the
bellhousing and the rear of the engine at four points once they were within a
couple of inches. By adjusting the 2 jacks and the wood at the rear, the gap
can be got exactly even all round. At this point, the gearbox can be pushed
forward until the splines catch (by turning the drive flange with the box in
gear) - and that's it!
  h.. I was expecting an all day job, or to have to give in and call for
assistance, but for once I managed to keep my cool (which was difficult,
because I started at 6:00am with the temperature at 30 deg C, heading for a
record 41 deg!)

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane
BN1 Ward Special





From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 21:14:37 +1100
Subject: Re: Screwed On the Internet - The Details -More

This story about an Apple notebook computer on eBay might give you some
ideas, and inspiration....

http://www.remodern.com/caught.html

http://www.siliconvalley.com/mld/siliconvalley/4796959.htm

An intersting story of how a guy's tenacious attitude, with the help of his
mates on bulletin boards, led the authorities to catch a greedy ebay thief
(and charge him with forgery...)

Good luck! & best regrds

Chris

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Neville" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "spridgets"
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 1:18 PM
Subject: Screwed On the Internet - The Details -More


> Again, thanks for your support.  I've contacted the
> FBI and the local Police Department.  I appreciate the
> offers of help from various leg breakers and other
> proponents of vigilante justice.  On the other hand,
> if you see this guy on eBay, please don't email him
> with any complaints about my situation.  I don't want
> him tipped off I'm coming for him.  I don't know if it
> will do any good, but I'd just as soon let him think
> he got away with this one.
>
> Thanks,
> Rick





From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 23:14:51 +1100
Subject: Re: Grace Kelly's Alpine-caution: nitpick ahead

The proposed name for the Australian Rootes Subsidiary - no doubt proposed
by the American based Chrysler executives - was "Chrysler Rootes Australia".

You see, over here - root has a much differerent connotation....

I think it just got called Chrysler Australia in the end...




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <sgerow@singular.com>; "'Healeys'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 11:41 AM
Subject: RE: Grace Kelly's Alpine-caution: nitpick ahead


> To Talbot or not to Talbot, that is the question.  Whether it be
> nobler to prefix one of these two radically different Alpines as
> pre-Rapier and the other as post-Rapier.  The Sunbeam non-Talbot Rapier
> was a Rootes product which bridged the period between the two Alpines.





From "Frakes, Jim" <JimF at frakes-eng.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 08:35:56 -0500
Subject: RE: Looking for my Healey 100/Six

Rudy, I have another BN4 in the body shop having the sheet metal redone.
It was owned by my brother, deceased, and is serial number BN4L076363.  

JimF@frakes-eng.com





From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 08:18:15 -0600 
Subject: RE: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

What's particularly appalling is that the seller continues to do
business on E-Bay, and people (like Rick) who saw his positive feedback
therefore feel it's OK to do business with him. I know that I've made
off-Ebay transactions based on somebody's positive feedback on Ebay.

One suggestion to Rick, if you feel like making trouble and possibly
embarrassing PayPal into helping you, would be to contact a consumer
reporter at the L.A. Times and tell him/her your story - make a phone
call, then follow up with an e-mail: 

"Dishonest seller using (probably fake) Beverly Hills address is running
auto scams on E-Bay; fleeced customer has no recourse from E-Bay, PayPal
or Discovery card. Another illuminating story on the perils of Internet
shopping - and a seller unable to use any of the "protections" he
thought he had.

"This raises two questions that involve broader topics:

"-Why is E-Bay still allowing this guy to do business? Did they ever
follow up on the complaint. Even if the sale took place "off" E-Bay - ie
ending the auction early - the guy is still using E-Bay to perpetuate a
fraud. Does E-Bay condone that?

"-Why the 30-day limit on PayPal (owned by E-Bay)? For many
transactions, especially high-ticket items like cars, or other items
that need freight shipping, etc., the entire process can take more than
30 days. People think they're getting protection with PayPal ... but in
many cases they're not."

-Graham (former newspaper reporter, current PR person)


-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Neville [mailto:healeyrick@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 7:54 PM
To: healeys; spridgets
Subject: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

First, thanks for all the condolences and expressions
of support.  Due to popular demand and since maybe
someone will avoid my mistakes, I'll fill you in on
the details.  The car was advertised on Ebay and I
asked the seller if he'd be willing to sell the car
before the end of the auction, which he agreed to do.
He had a 97% positive feedback on eBay and the
negatives were over minor things. I told him I needed
a title, which he said he would get.  He also agreed
to arrange transportation from California, where he
was, to Massachusetts, where I am.  I paid him by
PayPal in November after he provided a California
vehicle registration, listing myself as the owner.  I
thought there would be some protection using PayPal. 
He strung me along, saying the car was being picked up
by the transporter and on its way out to me and that
the title had been forwarded.  This was all untrue.
This guy has been responding to my emails all along
and even had someone call me in early February, saying
the car was being transported and on its way. I've
never received the title, or the car.  He gave his
name as Charles Von Troutman, 264 S. LaCienega Blvd, ,
Ste 389, Beverly Hills, CA and his ebay ID is
"Roadkill 42".  He's still doing business on ebay and
has purchased a couple of Volvo 960 station wagons,
including one in November, right about the time he got
my money. 
  I can't gripe to eBay, since the car was sold before
the auction ended.  PayPal won't take a complaint once
30 days have passed since the funds were transferred. 
And as I said, Discover won't reimburse you for a
PayPal non-delivery.
  In hindsight, there were a lot of warning bells.  I
tried to get him to use an escrow service, but he
declined.  He seemed like a nice-enough guy in his
emails and I ignored the warning signs because I was
really hot for the car and the price was right.
  My goal now is to get this guy prosecuted and I've
been in touch with the California authorities.  
   Like I said, I don't have any advice for anyone.  I
knew the risks and took a chance.  That's our weakness
as car buffs.  Common sense takes a back-seat when
you're in pursuit of that "dream car".

Rick





From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 09:28:18 -0500
Subject: Re: didn't get to start engine, possible wiring problems, need


> Randy -
>
> Sounds like to me you have a BJ-8 harness.  BJ-7
> harnesses are different because the use the old style
> voltage regulator.  The BJ8 uses the RB340, which is a
> newer model.
>
> If the wire to the fuel pump is too short, then you
> know you have an early BJ8 harness.  The fuel pump on
> the BJ7 is on the left hand side of the car, the BJ8
> fuel pump is on the right hand side (I think).
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan





From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 06:33:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

http://pages.ebay.com/help/confidence/isgw-fraud-protection.html

basically:
Try to work with the seller (both paypal and ebay want you to try to 
resolve this way first)
Try to get square trade to help (after 10 days?)
File a fraud alert (between 30 and 60 days?) (ebay)
File a fraud claim (paypal and ebay) between (60-90 days?)
File a citizen report with both your local and sellers local police 
property crimes division. (This is also needed for US tax purposes)
Report to US Postal Service (wire fraud)

Go get screen captures of the auction item before it disappears from the 
ebay data base (use Alt + Print Screen then paste into a word document)
Print hard copies.  Write a chronology of events, e-mail, 
correspondence.  Record everything on paper and electronic format that 
you can.

Somewhere I have some more information on agencies including how to 
speak to a human at both eBay and paypal fraud complaint dept.
I'll try to find these and share off-line.

You might also go to the sellers history and try contacting anyone who 
left negative feedback.  Paypal requires more than one complaint to do
anything to a user.  Unfortunatly both Paypal and eBay seem to protect 
their sellers more than their buyers.

When you file complaints and send letter you will recieve form mails 
back and it will seem like no-one person is correlating your numerous
complaints.  All the auto responses will seem like a load af crap and 
you will definatly get discouraged and frustrated.

Also did you investigate if the user shill bid.  You can probably assume 
if they did not follow through and if the intention was to burn you from 
the outset then they probably pulled some other schenanigans as well.

Many of the things above you probably already did.  Try not to get 
discouraged and roll over, this is just what these dirtbags are hoping 
for.  They know it is difficult to procucute internet crimes and that 
eBay is less than accomidating to buyers.

By the way I still do not have my money back  The people who burned me 
were Scott and Tracy Tone from New-Port Richey FL, they shill bid
sent a fake reproduction item to me.  Boy are they arrogant and seem to 
know all the loopholes to avoid procution.

Tracy

Rick wrote:

>Rick:
>
><<My goal now is to get this guy prosecuted and I've
>been in touch with the California authorities.
>  
>
>
>VERY next step IS the FBI!!  Involves INTER State transactions AND (maybe)
>wire fraud!!
>
>Article in Chi. Trib. in just the past day or so about same "sorta"
>thing(s).
>
>FBI is NOT happy and IS serious.
>
>Rick





From busyrider at springmail.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 09:54:19 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: RE: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

I think Rick has enough options available to him despite the abscence of the 
above semmingly easy fixes. Suggestions to blame 3rd parties reeks of the 
tiresome and whining societal cry that "it's not my fault", "who can I blame".

>From Rick's prior emails, it's my understanding he was aware of what I listed 
>in the first paragraph. For those that still wish to protest the facts, this 
>is why you need to READ the contractual obligations in which YOU choose to 
>involve yourself.

In my experience, ebay is a wonderful market, but I don't fool myself into 
believing it is any different that an ad in the newspaper. ebay goes out of 
their way to reinforce that fact. 

Rick has my utmost sympathies. I think he is a big boy and will go about 
attempting to resolve this problem using whatever avenues are available to him, 
but let's stick to the facts.

Fred Criswell
 

-----Original Message-----
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
Sent: Mar 2, 2004 9:18 AM
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Screwed on the Internet - The Details


-Graham (former newspaper reporter, current PR person)





From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 09:26:09 -0600 
Subject: RE: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

1) This situation is NOT the buyer's fault; the seller HAS DELIBERATELY
STOLEN HIS MONEY. The fact that this was not an E-Bay transaction does
not change that fact. 

2) The protection services provided by PayPal and Discover are not
freebies offered through the goodness of their hearts; they are
compensated by the fees they earn from transactions and interest. In
this case, the buyer is not trying to figure out "who can I blame" - he
is relying on the Discover and PayPal protections to which he is
ENTITLED.

3) Re the "terms and conditions" - too many American companies impose
unreasonable requirements or restrictions that discourage consumers from
using services that would cost the companies money (have you tried to
send in a rebate recently? How many rebates have you sent in that you
never got back, because it was "past the deadline" or "wasn't for that
product" even though it was?) Yet companies advertise those products and
services to attract customers, usually with an asterisk leading to the
fine print. Fortunately, courts have ruled that this also produces an
implied warranty, which means that companies often CANNOT weasel out of
their obligation by citing "terms and conditions."

Summing up, I agree with Fred that too many people screw up, then try to
figure out whom to blame. But I don't think Rick screwed up - he relied
on TWO companies - Discovery and PayPal - for protection, and they both
let him down. Plus, if he's complained to EBay, they are knowingly
letting a fraud artist continue to use their service.

-Graham   

-----Original Message-----
From: busyrider@springmail.com [mailto:busyrider@springmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 9:54 AM
To: healeys
Subject: RE: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

Some facts that some keep overlooking are:
1) this was NOT an ebay transaction,
2) Discovery terms and conditions were provided the user prior to this
transaction, and
3) PayPal terms and conditions were provided the user prior to this
transaction.

I think Rick has enough options available to him despite the abscence of
the above semmingly easy fixes. Suggestions to blame 3rd parties reeks
of the tiresome and whining societal cry that "it's not my fault", "who
can I blame".

>From Rick's prior emails, it's my understanding he was aware of what I
listed in the first paragraph. For those that still wish to protest the
facts, this is why you need to READ the contractual obligations in which
YOU choose to involve yourself.

In my experience, ebay is a wonderful market, but I don't fool myself
into believing it is any different that an ad in the newspaper. ebay
goes out of their way to reinforce that fact. 

Rick has my utmost sympathies. I think he is a big boy and will go about
attempting to resolve this problem using whatever avenues are available
to him, but let's stick to the facts.

Fred Criswell





From busyrider at springmail.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 10:57:35 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: RE: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

You are putting words in my mouth. I did not say this was the buyer's fault and 
never did I say nor infer that  Rick was trying to blame someone else for his 
situation. My Statement regarding the latter was in response to your remarks to 
that effect.

Reading your closing sentence, it seems that you missed my point entirely, and 
choose to ignore the fact that this _was_  _not_  _an_  _ebay_  _transaction_.

Fred Criswell


Vink, Graham wrote:

>Plus, if he's complained to EBay, they are knowingly
>letting a fraud artist continue to use their service.





From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 19:31:30 -0800
Subject: victoria british





From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 19:19:29 -0800
Subject: transmission replace





From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 08:48:44 -0800
Subject: LA Area Run to Old West Mining Town

A couple of us will be driving over the Angeles Crest from La Canada at
around 730 am and probably stopping in Mojave for breakfast (plans
tentative). If you are interested in going along with us in a Healey, reply
offlist.
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6





From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 10:53:53 -0600
Subject: Fw: Grace Kelly's Alpine-caution: nitpick ahead





From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 09:05:07 -0800
Subject: Questionable E-mail from Brashear

Received an e-mail with attachment from NJNBrashear@garverengineers.com, 
subject:  Monthly incomings summary.

Looks suspicious.  Is that you?  Did you send me an e-mail with attachment with 
that subject?  Received it before I downloaded the latest Norton virus 
definition for the Netsky.D worm.


(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031





From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 13:04:10 EST
Subject: Re: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

If you made the deal outside of Ebay, they are not liable or involved. Ebay 
is the party who got screwed out of their fair share of the deal that got 
cancelled. So, according to their records the sale never happened. That's your 
fault and against ebay policy that you agreed to by using the site.

Yeah it sucks, but if you want ebay help, bid and buy accordingly.





From "Lyle Matson" <medlabinc at msn.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 10:46:00 -0800
Subject: 3.54 diff

Hi all:

     I'm considering installation of 3.54 diff into BJ8 with OD.  Who has done
it.  Any comments re this change.

Dick  /  WA State





From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 13:50:31 EST
Subject: Re: 3.54 diff

Since Mike Lempert got some manufactured, haven't we all?

He's got a new batch in the works so jump in and order your set from him.

Rick
San Diego
http://members.aol.com/wilko

In a message dated 3/2/04 10:48:51 AM, medlabinc@msn.com writes:


> 03/02/2004
>
> Hi all:
>
>      I'm considering installation of 3.54 diff into BJ8 with OD.  Who has
> done
> it.  Any comments re this change.
>
> Dick  /  WA State





From "Robert Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 10:54:01 -0800
Subject: Re: didn't get to start engine, possible wiring problems, need 

I've owned my BJ7 for 21 years. To the best of my knowledge, the wiring
harness is original. A previous owner retrofitted an RB340 (BJ8) regulator,
with screw-type connectors adapted to the spade lugs. The connections are as
follows:

E (Earth, or Ground, equivalent to E terminal on RB 106/2 regulator) -- Thin
Black wire connected to harness clamp screw on firewall.

D (Dynamo, or Armature, equivalent to D terminal on RB 106/2) -- One thin
Yellow wire, one fat Yellow wire, no tracers.

WL (Common connection with D terminal, no equivalent on RB 106/2) -- No
connection.

F (Field, equivalent to F terminal on RB 106/2) -- Braided insulated wire,
braid appears to be brown and black. I believe your equivalent would be your
Yellow wire with Green tracer. Verify by seeing if there is a same size
Yellow/Green wire at the generator which should connect to the field
terminal.

B (Battery, two common terminals, equivalent to A terminal on RB 106/2) -- 
One fat Brown wire with Blue tracer, one fat Brown wire, one thin Brown
wire.

Your other two black wires are not related to the regulator and should be
connected to ground, along with the E wire.

Bob
BJ7


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 3:03 PM
Subject: didn't get to start engine, possible wiring problems, need advice!


>...Traced wires to the voltage regulator and this is where I think there is
> a problem.  I checked the wiring diagram in the shop manual and the colors
in
> my harness and the colors on the schematic do not quite jive.  My harness
has > 9 wires at the voltage reg.
> 1. brown with a blue stripe (fat),
> 2. brown (fat)
> 3. brown (thin)
> 4. yellow (fat)
> 5. yellow (thin)
> 6. yellow with green strip
> 7, 8. black with ground loop
> 9. black
>
> I almost went blind looking at this but the colors in the shop manual
diagram
> are brown/green, brown/yellow, brown/yellow, brown, brown, brown, brown,
black,
>
> black, black,
> My question is: When looking right at the voltage regulator on the
bulkhead,
> reading left to right, what is the correct order for these wires in my
harness
> to attach to the voltage regulator?
> That is, E, D, WL, F, B.
>
> Lastly, I think that I have it figured out, but which wires go to the
starter
> button and which to the ign. key switch?
> Thanks a lot in advance!!!!!!
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.





From "Lyle Matson" <medlabinc at msn.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 11:12:17 -0800
Subject: 3.54 diff / BJ8

Hi Listers:

     Rats !  I asked it wrong.

     Who has 3.54 gears in a BJ8 with OD.  Any comments.  I am considering
doing this for my own car.

     Sorry, I don't mean I'm considering doing it myself.

Dick / WA State





From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 12:44:37 -0800 
Subject: 100S's in movies

Hard to believe but the extremely poor plot 1959 movie Speed Crazy has some
footage of Bob Windhorst racing his 100S alongside a 100-6. There are some
other glimpses of other 100S's racing in Southern California in the late
50's.

The movie "On the Beach" with Gregory Peck and others has a 100S in the
racing footage also. It belonged to Bill Friedaur and was customized to look
more like a dark blue Ferrari.

Just some trivia.
Ken Freese
100S Registrar





From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 14:10:24 -0800
Subject: Hitchcock--Last Call Trying to Stir up a Reaction

I thought it was an Invicta--but now I wonder if it was a Riley. About the
size of a Healey--bigger than an MG, maybe just smaller than an SS100 or
Invicta.

Also, there's a Fred Astaire/Ginger Rogers movie from the mid thirties,
where he's on his way to a golf course or a polo match (ah, those movie
thirties!) in a cycle-fendered MG, and he bumps into someone (Ginger?) in a
small Bugatti.
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6





From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 14:14:23 -0800
Subject: Diff Installers

Thanks in advance.
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6





From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 17:17:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Screwed on the Internet

I remember that car and I hate to hear of your problem.

I ordered Bose speakers through Ebay. They were packed so horribly that they
were chipped and too broken to repair. One tweeter did not work either.

The guy said make a claim to UPS. It was not UPS's fault. UPS said the
sender needed to make the claim. I sent them back to him. He made the claim
and never reimbursed me. Ebay makes you wait to make a claim. I made claim.
Paypal sent him a request to resolve. Nothing resolved. I called him for
months and wasted many, many hours writing letters, looking up my options
and nothing.

The guy was a complete D***HEAD and I did not resolve. Fortunately my loss
was minimal in comparison to you.

I'll drink one and morn your loss.
Cheers,
Scott
Mashed BN7


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Neville" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "spridgets"
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 6:36 PM
Subject: Screwed on the Internet


> After my paean to Spring, you'd probably think all is
> just swell in Healeyland.  Not so, Healey friends.
> You may remember I purchased a Healey-Jamaican over
> the internet a few months ago.  The bottom line is I
> was defrauded and I'm probably out $2,500. The car was
> advertised on eBay.  Because of what I do for a
> living, I tend not to be the most trusting of people,
> but I let my guard down in this case and was taken to
> the cleaners. I don't want to go into details, because
> it's painful, but I've seen lots of postings from
> people who say they've had nothing but great
> experiences on eBay.  Maybe so, but there's a lot of
> jerks out there waiting to rip you off.  Nobody's
> going hungry in my household over this.  Frankly, I
> don't have any words of advice for you how to avoid
> getting taken.  Maybe one, if you use a Discover card
> on PayPal, they won't reimburse you for non-delivery
> of an item, although I understand Visa and Mastercard
> will (ask me how I know, and double check for yourself
> to make sure) Personally, this is the last time I'll
> try to buy anything over the internet.  I'm pretty
> upset and have been kicking my own butt over this,
> because my experiences with people in the car hobby
> over the years has been overwhelmingly positive and
> it's not fun having to try to track somebody down over
> something you do for a hobby.  Bottom line, if you
> can't afford to lose the money, don't buy unless you
> have the goods in your hot little hands.
>
> Unhappy Healeying,
> Rick





From "Adrian Boelen" <boelena at sympatico.ca>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 18:37:25 -0500
Subject: RE: Hitchcock--Last Call Trying to Stir up a Reaction

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Gerow
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 5:10 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Hitchcock--Last Call Trying to Stir up a Reaction

Didn't hear from anyone on the opinion of Olivier's car in Rebecca.

I thought it was an Invicta--but now I wonder if it was a Riley. About
the
size of a Healey--bigger than an MG, maybe just smaller than an SS100 or
Invicta.





From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 18:55:50 EST
Subject: Re: 3.54 diff

>    I'm considering installation of 3.54 diff into BJ8 with OD.  Who has 
> done
> it.  Any comments re this change.
> 

There has been a lot of discusion on this topic in the last few months and 
there is even a current thread on it.
That notwithstanding, yes I've done it & with a 28% o/drive. And, yes I do 
like it. I bought a second hand 3:54 complete so I can easily switch back if I 
want.
I'm happy with mine.
        Simon.





From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 16:00:28 -0800 
Subject: 4 wheel drift definition

As bend followed bend, I discovered his secret. Nuvolari entered the bend
somewhat earlier than my driver's instinct would have told me to. But he
went into the bend in an unusual way: with one movement he aimed the nose of
the car at the inside edge, just where the curve itself started. His foot
was flat down, and he had obviously changed down to the right gear before
going through this fearsome rigmarole. In this way he put the car into a
four-wheel drift, making the most of the thrust of the centrifugal force and
keeping it on the road with the traction of the driving wheels. Throughout
the bend the car shaved the inside edge, and when the bend turned into the
straight the car was in the normal position for accelerating down it, with
no need for any corrections." 

Enzo Ferrari





From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 18:07:12 -0600
Subject: Re: 4 wheel drift definition

Thank you for sharing that..... truly wonderful...

Keith





From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>;
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 19:11:05 EST
Subject: Re: Hitchcock--Last Call Trying to Stir up a Reaction

Rick
San Diego


In a message dated 3/2/04 2:09:00 PM, sgerow@singular.com writes:

> Also, there's a Fred Astaire/Ginger Rogers movie from the mid thirties,
> where he's on his way to a golf course or a polo match (ah, those movie
> thirties!) in a cycle-fendered MG, and he bumps into someone (Ginger?) in a
> small Bugatti.





From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at cyg.net>
From: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <sgerow@singular.com>; "'Healeys'"
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 19:18:25 -0500
Subject: RE: Hitchcock--Last Call Trying to Stir up a Reaction





From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <sgerow@singular.com>; "'Healeys'"
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 16:25:21 -0800 
Subject: OT- odd ball aerodynamic racers





From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <sgerow@singular.com>; "'Healeys'"
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 17:17:36 -0800
Subject: Re: 3.54 diff

My Dad and I did the installation in one 8-hour day.  There is a little
whine between 40-50 mph, but I only hear it with the hood (top)
up.  Others I've talked to--including some who had "professional"
installations--have noted the same noise.


bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lyle Matson" <medlabinc@msn.com>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 10:46 AM
Subject: 3.54 diff


> 03/02/2004
> 
> Hi all:
> 
>      I'm considering installation of 3.54 diff into BJ8 with OD.  Who has done
> it.  Any comments re this change.
> 
> Dick  /  WA State





From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <sgerow@singular.com>; "'Healeys'"
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 20:24:15 EST
Subject: Re: 3.54 diff

Whew!

In a message dated 3/2/04 5:19:17 PM, bspidell@pacbell.net writes:


> My Dad and I did the installation in one 8-hour day. 





From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <sgerow@singular.com>; "'Healeys'"
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 17:48:04 -0800 
Subject: FW: looking for Matthews Healey V8r





From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?=  <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <sgerow@singular.com>; "'Healeys'"
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 21:24:59 -0500
Subject: RE: OT- odd ball aerodynamic racers

Ah, yes! The roto-visor. I have one of those. It is used curently ( 
believe it or not ) in kart racing and is highly effective in the 
rain. Better than Rain-x on your visor. It has little fins that make 
the disk spin very fast in front of your eyes...NO you don't get 
dizzy. You actually get used to the noise it makes or the engine 
drowns out the droning of the thing. Ya know-in the heat of battle. 
Just the thing for all you 100-4 owners out there who like to drive 
'er with the screen flat in the pouring rain. Get one for the wife 
while you're at it !

-- 
        Alain Giguere
        BN7 Bits





From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?=  <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <sgerow@singular.com>; "'Healeys'"
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 21:34:40 -0500
Subject: RE: 4 wheel drift

Enzo Ferrari

Tazio, we have no more tyres for you today! Rifinito! Il camion h vuoto!

Sr. Pirelli





From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <sgerow@singular.com>; "'Healeys'"
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 22:23:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

Good Luck Rick,    Who ever you are,

Mark


----- Original Message -----
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 10:26 AM
Subject: RE: Screwed on the Internet - The Details


> A couple of responses to Fred's post:
>
> 1) This situation is NOT the buyer's fault; the seller HAS DELIBERATELY
> STOLEN HIS MONEY. The fact that this was not an E-Bay transaction does
> not change that fact.
>
> 2) The protection services provided by PayPal and Discover are not
> freebies offered through the goodness of their hearts; they are
> compensated by the fees they earn from transactions and interest. In
> this case, the buyer is not trying to figure out "who can I blame" - he
> is relying on the Discover and PayPal protections to which he is
> ENTITLED.
>
> 3) Re the "terms and conditions" - too many American companies impose
> unreasonable requirements or restrictions that discourage consumers from
> using services that would cost the companies money (have you tried to
> send in a rebate recently? How many rebates have you sent in that you
> never got back, because it was "past the deadline" or "wasn't for that
> product" even though it was?) Yet companies advertise those products and
> services to attract customers, usually with an asterisk leading to the
> fine print. Fortunately, courts have ruled that this also produces an
> implied warranty, which means that companies often CANNOT weasel out of
> their obligation by citing "terms and conditions."
>
> Summing up, I agree with Fred that too many people screw up, then try to
> figure out whom to blame. But I don't think Rick screwed up - he relied
> on TWO companies - Discovery and PayPal - for protection, and they both
> let him down. Plus, if he's complained to EBay, they are knowingly
> letting a fraud artist continue to use their service.
>
> -Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: busyrider@springmail.com [mailto:busyrider@springmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 9:54 AM
> To: healeys
> Subject: RE: Screwed on the Internet - The Details
>
> Some facts that some keep overlooking are:
> 1) this was NOT an ebay transaction,
> 2) Discovery terms and conditions were provided the user prior to this
> transaction, and
> 3) PayPal terms and conditions were provided the user prior to this
> transaction.
>
> I think Rick has enough options available to him despite the abscence of
> the above semmingly easy fixes. Suggestions to blame 3rd parties reeks
> of the tiresome and whining societal cry that "it's not my fault", "who
> can I blame".
>
> >From Rick's prior emails, it's my understanding he was aware of what I
> listed in the first paragraph. For those that still wish to protest the
> facts, this is why you need to READ the contractual obligations in which
> YOU choose to involve yourself.
>
> In my experience, ebay is a wonderful market, but I don't fool myself
> into believing it is any different that an ad in the newspaper. ebay
> goes out of their way to reinforce that fact.
>
> Rick has my utmost sympathies. I think he is a big boy and will go about
> attempting to resolve this problem using whatever avenues are available
> to him, but let's stick to the facts.
>
> Fred Criswell





From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <sgerow@singular.com>; "'Healeys'"
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 23:04:22 -0500
Subject: Two tranny questions

I have had a Smitty conversion kit sitting around for years,  but I've been
having second thoughts.  Can anyone recommend someone to do a proper rebuild
of this tranny ?  I'm near Charleston, SC.

Thanks,
Mike L.





From "Ron Fine Esq." <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <sgerow@singular.com>; "'Healeys'"
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 20:20:29 -0800
Subject: Lempert rearend





From Jay Fishbein <type79 at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <sgerow@singular.com>; "'Healeys'"
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 00:19:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

Rick has contributed to these forums as well as the Healey community for 
more years than I have. His involvement with Healeys goes back to the 
sixties. He is well known to many in physical Healey fraternity and not 
for his flamboyance but for his genuine interest in British cars and 
charitable nature.

He has been a friend for more than 20 years and I am honored to have him 
as a friend. I would trust him as much as anyone else I know, friend or 
family.

I'm stunned by your hurtful statements.

jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/ <http://home.ix.netcom.com/%7Etype79/>

Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:

>You all have some very good points.  But even so, there just maybe another
>side to this story.  The ebay sellers.  Has anybody heard his side?    And
>for that matter, Who is Rick?   I scanned back 5 years of emails and his
>name is not to be found except for this Ebay transaction.
>Hmmmmm,   the plot thickens.
>
>Good Luck Rick,    Who ever you are,
>
>Mark





From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 23:42:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Screwed on the Internet - The Details


> I'll gladly be the first to step out to say those remarks are out of line.
>
> Rick has contributed to these forums as well as the Healey community for
> more years than I have. His involvement with Healeys goes back to the
> sixties. He is well known to many in physical Healey fraternity and not
> for his flamboyance but for his genuine interest in British cars and
> charitable nature.
>
> He has been a friend for more than 20 years and I am honored to have him
> as a friend. I would trust him as much as anyone else I know, friend or
> family.
>
> I'm stunned by your hurtful statements.
>
> jay fishbein
> wallingford, ct
> http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/ <http://home.ix.netcom.com/%7Etype79/>





From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 21:54:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Diff Installers

I think he has some of Mike's rear end gears or you can buy your own and 
have them shipped to him.
Eric will give you the price for all of the work.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
Playa del Rey CA

At 02:14 PM 3/2/2004, Steve Gerow wrote:
>Would appreciate knowing of an installer who can be trusted on the Lempert
>gears in the Los Angeles area.
>Steve Gerow
>Pasadena CA
>59 BN6





From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 01:12:50 -0500
Subject: Gauge Rebuild

Scot
'66 BJ8





From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 04:13:29 -0600
Subject: 200mph was( 4 wheel drift) 

Ken... it's funny in that it's pretty boring unless you run out of Hp.... So
long as the car is accelerating it remains very stable... the rear wheels
are pushing the car down the course and your only job is to keep them hooked
up to what amounts to a fine gravel road.  That part is somewhat
difficult... but you learn to do it fairly quick when the car starts
drifting sideways...(  ugly feeling )

What happens when you get to the point that the body's drag on the air is
equal to the Hp avalible.... now that is Very ugly stuff... the car starts
wandering... seeking a way to get out of the wind... and it literally drifts
left and right ... the rear wheels search for the limit of traction... and
the nose feels like it's floating....  your job at that point is to balance
this act for as long as you can... hopefully until you get through the last
mile marker and can finally push the parachute handle....( and yes at that
point it's a favorite 2 octave toy )   I'm not sure what the real terms
are... but I call it the point of equalibrium.... the point where all forces
are equal and life simply sucks... but it's why you go to Bonneville.... to
find out just how fast your car is.... and this point is exactly there for
that moment...

Once I really got to thinking about it.... I realized that Ralph Nader and
the rest of us who have pushed cars to thier limits have felt this.... it
happens to all cars at the end of thier top speed.... thou most don't have
the ability to spin the tires at 249mph which adds just a bit of excitement
to the fray...

Honestly I wish there was a way to discribe my relationship with Donald
Healey's picture in the Stateline Room at Bonneville.... each year I stood
and stared ,,, it was almost like going to an alter... we chatted... ( I
talked he listened )... this year I was smiling more then he was!!!

Keith Turk
D Gas Modified Sports
246.555mph World Record





From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 07:38:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Two tranny questions

     Have you taken the side cover off to check out the condition of first,
reverse and the laygear.   Maybe , just maybe, you might be one of the lucky
ones that doesn't need a rebuild.   If you do need some work done  Mike
expect $1000. plus if you need any gears replaced.   This is why so many
have gone to the Smitty unit.
    BN2 would fall in the earlier 6 cylinder catagory , but then again it
could be just the trany. case left over from the 100/6 with the  updated
3000 gears.   You need to look and see which way the gear teeth are angled
on the laygear and input shaft to really tell which version you have or if
the O/D is a 28% that would indicate an earlier 100/6 unit.    The 100/6 and
3000 COMPLETE units are interchangeable but not sure about the BJ8, sorry.
There are many different gear and shaft versions between these  boxes. Just
take a look at the Moss transmission page and you will see.    Have Fun. :)
    Mike, with your " MASTER MIND" you could easily take this thing a part
and see where you stand and then go from there.  Its definitely not rocket
science.  A digital camera , one weekend, a pot of coffee and " your all
over it".   Go for it Mike!

Mark





----- Original Message -----
From: "M Lempert" <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 11:04 PM
Subject: Two tranny questions


> I've been itching to get back to completing my BN7 restoration.  I have a
> BJ8 engine to go in it (needed a rebuild anyway on original).  The
> transmission has a label stamped "Type BN2".  I have no clue whether this
is
> original or not,  but the car is a very early MKI and has other
differences
> as a result.  In any case,  I recall someone once telling me there would
be
> a problem mating this engine and tranny,  but it was resolvable.  Does
> anyone know how to go about this ?
>
> I have had a Smitty conversion kit sitting around for years,  but I've
been
> having second thoughts.  Can anyone recommend someone to do a proper
rebuild
> of this tranny ?  I'm near Charleston, SC.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike L.
>
> *





From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 07:53:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

Mark
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Jay Fishbein
  To: Mark and kathy LaPierre
  Cc: healeys
  Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 12:19 AM
  Subject: Re: Screwed on the Internet - The Details


  I'll gladly be the first to step out to say those remarks are out of line.

  Rick has contributed to these forums as well as the Healey community for
more years than I have. His involvement with Healeys goes back to the sixties.
He is well known to many in physical Healey fraternity and not for his
flamboyance but for his genuine interest in British cars and charitable
nature.

  He has been a friend for more than 20 years and I am honored to have him as
a friend. I would trust him as much as anyone else I know, friend or family.

  I'm stunned by your hurtful statements.

  jay fishbein
  wallingford, ct
  http://home.ix.netcom.com/~type79/

  Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:

You all have some very good points.  But even so, there just maybe another
side to this story.  The ebay sellers.  Has anybody heard his side?    And
for that matter, Who is Rick?   I scanned back 5 years of emails and his
name is not to be found except for this Ebay transaction.
Hmmmmm,   the plot thickens.

Good Luck Rick,    Who ever you are,

Mark





From ggilliam at usol.com
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 10:23:05 EST
Subject: Re: Screwed on the Internet - The Details

  Also, does anyone have a used set of seat slides, driver or 
passenger, that they would like to sell?

 Thanks all,
 
Gordy





From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 07:52:44 -0800 
Subject: RE: Facet pumps





From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 11:06:48 EST
Subject: Re: 100S's in movies

Here is one sighting that you'll get a kick out of since it involves not 1 
but 2 100Ss.  A few months ago while channel surfing I came across an old Perry 
Mason episode and one scene was filmed in a garage with what looked to be 2 
100Ss in the background.  I couldn't stay to watch he entire episode so I don't 
know much more about it other than the show was probably filmed in Los Angeles 
in the late 1950s.

Curt

In a message dated 3/2/04 12:46:44 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:

<< Cars in movies? This is a Healey list, not a Rootes list, so:
 
 Hard to believe but the extremely poor plot 1959 movie Speed Crazy has some
 footage of Bob Windhorst racing his 100S alongside a 100-6. There are some
 other glimpses of other 100S's racing in Southern California in the late
 50's.
 
 The movie "On the Beach" with Gregory Peck and others has a 100S in the
 racing footage also. It belonged to Bill Friedaur and was customized to look
 more like a dark blue Ferrari.
 
 Just some trivia.
 Ken Freese
 100S Registrar >>





From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 08:11:53 -0800 
Subject: RE: 100S's in movies





From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 08:38:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Two tranny questions

-- 

-- 
David Nock
               NEW  E-mail Addresses!!!

 David Nock, Technical Questions   healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions    britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net

British Car Specialists  2060 N. Wilson Way   Stockton  CA  95205
 Phone 209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030

http://www.britishcarspecialists.com


on 3/2/04 8:04 PM, M Lempert at mlempert@bellsouth.net wrote:

> I've been itching to get back to completing my BN7 restoration.  I have a
> BJ8 engine to go in it (needed a rebuild anyway on original).  The
> transmission has a label stamped "Type BN2".  I have no clue whether this is
> original or not,  but the car is a very early MKI and has other differences
> as a result.  In any case,  I recall someone once telling me there would be
> a problem mating this engine and tranny,  but it was resolvable.  Does
> anyone know how to go about this ?
> 
> I have had a Smitty conversion kit sitting around for years,  but I've been
> having second thoughts.  Can anyone recommend someone to do a proper rebuild
> of this tranny ?  I'm near Charleston, SC.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike L.





From "Gary Williams" <gwilliams54 at hotmail.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 08:55:44 -0800
Subject: RE: 100S's in movies

>The movie "On the Beach" with Gregory Peck and others has a 100S in the
>racing footage also. It belonged to Bill Friedaur and was customized to 
>look
>more like a dark blue Ferrari.

Are you referring to the car Fred Astaire was driving?  I'll have to see 
that film again.

GW

_________________________________________________________________
One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page  download MSN Toolbar now! 
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/





From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 08:59:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey Meet in Ventura 

Thanks
Dean BN7

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what youre looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com





From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 09:04:57 -0800 
Subject: RE: 100S's in movies

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Williams [mailto:gwilliams54@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 8:56 AM
To: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: 100S's in movies


Freese, Ken wrote:

>The movie "On the Beach" with Gregory Peck and others has a 100S in the
>racing footage also. It belonged to Bill Friedaur and was customized to 
>look
>more like a dark blue Ferrari.

Are you referring to the car Fred Astaire was driving?  I'll have to see 
that film again.

GW

_________________________________________________________________
One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page - download MSN Toolbar now! 
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/





From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 13:06:06 -0500
Subject: Re: 100S's in movies and other movie cars





From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 10:31:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Two tranny questions

As far as I can remember, all of the later sideshift
gearbox/overdrive/bellhouse units will bolt up to any later Healey rear
plate, including the BJ8 - you should have no trouble doing a direct bolt-in
on your BN7.  Something for you to consider - the overdrive in your car
should be a 22% rather than the 100-6 28%.  A look at the tag on the
overdrive unit will confirm - the first two digits will tell you.  The 28%
is much more desireable.  I'd be real curious as to what it is with the
'Type BN2' label on the gearbox.

Another thing to consider - as Mark says, if the gearbox needs a rebuild, it
can get fairly pricey.  The overdrive unit should probably be refreshed as
well - more $, and much more $ if it needs major components.  Healey
gearboxes are getting up there - $3 - 4K if it needs lots of parts and if
you need to hire someone to do it - it's pretty labour intensive work!

All this might re-direct your thinking with regard to the Smitty conversion.
I did my BJ8, didn't really like it until the 3:545 diff went in, now it's
perfect, and I'm really surprised at how much I enjoy it.  So IMHO, if you
went for the Toyota, the diff change is almost mandatory - I know a guy that
can probably get you one!

One other thing - the reason for the changes made in the gearbox when the
BJ8 was introduced was to allow for stronger gears - the increased power in
the BJ8 motor caused the factory some concerns, so I guess they needed to
cover their a**'s a bit.  The Toyota boxes are built for 200 HP+, so there
is no problem there.

Lot's for you to think about!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: "M Lempert" <mlempert@bellsouth.net>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 4:38 AM
Subject: Re: Two tranny questions


NOT  "Vons".

     Have you taken the side cover off to check out the condition of first,
reverse and the laygear.   Maybe , just maybe, you might be one of the lucky
ones that doesn't need a rebuild.   If you do need some work done  Mike
expect $1000. plus if you need any gears replaced.   This is why so many
have gone to the Smitty unit.
    BN2 would fall in the earlier 6 cylinder catagory , but then again it
could be just the trany. case left over from the 100/6 with the  updated
3000 gears.   You need to look and see which way the gear teeth are angled
on the laygear and input shaft to really tell which version you have or if
the O/D is a 28% that would indicate an earlier 100/6 unit.    The 100/6 and
3000 COMPLETE units are interchangeable but not sure about the BJ8, sorry.
There are many different gear and shaft versions between these  boxes. Just
take a look at the Moss transmission page and you will see.    Have Fun. :)
    Mike, with your " MASTER MIND" you could easily take this thing a part
and see where you stand and then go from there.  Its definitely not rocket
science.  A digital camera , one weekend, a pot of coffee and " your all
over it".   Go for it Mike!

Mark





----- Original Message -----
From: "M Lempert" <mlempert@bellsouth.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 11:04 PM
Subject: Two tranny questions


> I've been itching to get back to completing my BN7 restoration.  I have a
> BJ8 engine to go in it (needed a rebuild anyway on original).  The
> transmission has a label stamped "Type BN2".  I have no clue whether this
is
> original or not,  but the car is a very early MKI and has other
differences
> as a result.  In any case,  I recall someone once telling me there would
be
> a problem mating this engine and tranny,  but it was resolvable.  Does
> anyone know how to go about this ?
>
> I have had a Smitty conversion kit sitting around for years,  but I've
been
> having second thoughts.  Can anyone recommend someone to do a proper
rebuild
> of this tranny ?  I'm near Charleston, SC.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike L.





From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 22:52:12 -0000
Subject: Re: UK Advise Sought

Captain John Smith born Willoughby 1580 first Governor of Virginia and of
Indian Princess Pocahontas fame.

Annie Hutchinson born Alford 1590 killed by Indians in 1643,{memorial in
Boston US to her and all pioneer women}

John Franklin born Spilsby 1746 Arctic explorer and discoverer of North West
Passage.

Thomas Paine 1737 credited with the conception of,"United States of America"
friend and colleague of Benjamin Franklin and George Washington,credited
with writing ,"The Rights of Man", "The Age of Reason"and,"Common Sense".
Regarded as one of the "Founding Fathers of America", { customs officer in
Alford}

Alfred Tennyson1809 born Somersby near Alford. Poet Laureate to Queen
Victoria...."Into the Valley of Death Rode the Six Hundred"}

Margaret Hilda Thatcher 1925 born Grantham, first woman British Prime
Minister.

Sir Joseph Banks born Revesby 1743, botanist on Capt Cook's voyage of
discovery to the "New Land",[Australia"] "The Father of Australia".

George Bass born Aswarby near Sleaford 1771, explorer. Bass Straight named
after him. Very good friend of Matthew Flinders.

Matthew Flinders born Donington near Sleaford 1774. Explorer mainly in
Australisia.

Gonville Bromhead, born Thurlby 1844, of "Rorkes Drift" fame when with
fellow officer John Chard and a contingent of 890 soldiers they held off
some 4,000 highly trained Zulu's on the night of 22/23 January 1879 at
Rorkes Drift, Natal, South Africa.
At this action the highest number of the UK highest award for bravery in the
Field of Battle the "Victoria Cross " was ever awarded . Eleven in all.

Guy Gibson 1918 although born in Simla India he was a resident of
Lincolnshire.Officer in Command of the Lancaster raid upon the German Ruhr
Dams in WW11. Also awarded the Victoria Cross.

Leonard Cheshire 1917-1992 Officer in Command of 617 squadron after Guy
Gibson.Also awarded the "Victoria Cross" for gallantry.Founder of the
Cheshire homes for the disabled with his wife Sue Ryder.

Isaac Newton .born Colsterworth, Christmas Day1642. Scientist.

Charles Wesley 1708-1788.  John Wesley 1703-1791
Born Epworth. Founders of the Methodist Church.{ Methodism}

Joseph Ruston 1835-1897 Founder Lincoln.Manufacturer of Steam engines.

William Tritton 1875-1946 designer for William Foster of Lincoln designer of
the Worlds first ever tracked fighting vehicle that became known as the
"Tank".Knighted in 1917.

Edward Chad born Barton-on Humber 1911. Founder of the Samaritans.

Scrooby and Austerfield near to Gainsborough is where the "Pilgrim" Fathers
came from.

John Harrison,Barton-on-Humber 17??. credited with the Worlds first reliable
timepiece, a absolute must requirement for the navigation of Longitude.

Indeed if you are really into History and famous people and places then this
is the part of England that you simply MUST visit.
At East kirkby near Spilsby you can visit a WW11 aeroplane museum where they
take a Lancaster bomber out and actually start it up, and taxi it up the
runway.
Roughly 5 miles away at Coninsby they actually fly a Lancaster bomber, two
Hurricanes, I believe four WW11 Spitfires, a DC3 , [C47] and a DH
"Chipmunk.This is the collection of the Battle of Britain Memorial
Flight.Truly wonderful, especially if you are into "Warbirds".
I take this opportunity to wish you a happy and memorial trip,have a safe
journey, and return back to the US with wonderful memories.
If you require further details do not hesitate to ask......off line.
Kindest regards.
David.
www.bighealey.ltd.uk

----- Original Message -----
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <ahy3000@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 3:08 PM
Subject: Re: UK Advise Sought


> In a message dated 25/02/2004 13:48:02 GMT Standard Time,
ahy3000@comcast.net
> writes:
>
> > My wife and I are planning a trip to Bury St Edmond in the
London/Cambridge
> > (East Anglia area?) in early April.  We have a son-in-law flying F15s
out of
> > Lakenheath. I've read about a Transport Museum in Duxford that sounds
> > interesting.  Can you recommend any other sights that would be of
interest to a
> > Healey owner?
> >
> > Other interests include kayaking and Royal Rangers (a scouting program).
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > BW
>
> Hi from the UK,
> I'm sure you've been here before many times, but it's important to
remember
> what a small place it is.So, distances are,'t so important....what matters
is
> the quality of the road and the expectation of traffic etc. I hope you'll
have
> a car? Most of our hire cars are shift. Maybe specify auto as you'll have
> plenty to do friving on our side.........?
> Going north from London up the motorway, M40, you could go to the (British
> Motor) Heritage Museum at Gaydon. It's about a mile from exit 12.
> Another 20 minutes up the motorway would take you to Warwick, exit 15.
Great
> castle...huge place...very complete...lovely "State Rooms"....dungeons
> (torture chamber)...weapons etcetc. Warwick also famous for DMH
connection...The Cape
> etc. (I went to the converted cinema they used as a showroom years ago,
and
> bought some bits for my first 3000. I forget who'd taken it over, but it
> wasn't in Healey hands).
> Warwick to Stratford on Avon, for the Shakespeare bit, is very easy, about
10
> miles, but not in the right direction. From the Warwick area you'd pick up
> the A14, a good road, which would dump you in the right area for Bury,
> Lakenheath, Duxford etc. The latter is a great place.
> Any other help, email me and I'll try to assist.
> Simon





From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 18:10:43 -0500
Subject: RE: Hitchcock--Last Call Trying to Stir up a Reaction

Subject: Hitchcock--Last Call Trying to Stir up a Reaction

Didn't hear from anyone on the opinion of Olivier's car in Rebecca.

I thought it was an Invicta--but now I wonder if it was a Riley. About
the
size of a Healey--bigger than an MG, maybe just smaller than an SS100 or
Invicta.

Also, there's a Fred Astaire/Ginger Rogers movie from the mid thirties,
where he's on his way to a golf course or a polo match (ah, those movie
thirties!) in a cycle-fendered MG, and he bumps into someone (Ginger?)
in a
small Bugatti.
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6





From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 15:32:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Lagonda Rapide Redux

FWIW--I remember an import British TV show from the 50s--"The Invisible
Man"--where he tooled around in a 100-4 with an ascot and no head. Pretty
suave in an old Playboy bon-vivant kinda way.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6

From: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 15:12:40 -0500
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <sgerow@singular.com>
Subject: RE: Lagonda Rapide

Another lister wrote he sort of remembered it might have been a 6 cylinder
MG.  Suggest you print pictures of the Invicta and MG from the internet,
compare the video to the pictures of all three cars and voil`. 

Let me know how you make out.   





From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 17:59:05 -0600
Subject: European Sports Car Museum

I was just in Reno and I stopped by the Harrah's National Automobile Museum.
It had a fabulous collection of prewar US cars but they were light on Eurpean
makes.

I want to mark my map in case I am near anything of interest.
Cheers,
Scott
Mashed BN7





From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 15:58:36 -0800 
Subject: Any NC Healey Action in March?

I'm flying out to North Carolina on the 18th of March with my wife who will
be in a quilting class for 3 days up in Mount Airy.  I got 3 days to kill,
and was wondering if there's any Healey Happenings up in the Northern part
of North Carolina or the Southern part of Virginia between the dates of the
18th and the 21st?  Guess I could go fishing?

Cheers

Frank
1960 BN7 # 10610









CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail transmission, and any documents, files 
or previous e-mail messages attached to it, may contain information that is 
confidential and/or legally privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, 
or a person responsible for delivering it to the intended recipient, please DO 
NOT disclose the contents to another person, store or copy the information in 
any medium, or use any of the information contained in or attached to this 
transmission for any purpose. If you have received this transmission in error, 
please immediately notify the sender by reply email or at 
mailto:privacy@plantronics.com, and destroy the original transmission and its 
attachments without reading or saving in any manner.





From "i erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 16:30:40 -0800
Subject: RE: 100S's in movies and other movie cars

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of R.J. Denton
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 10:06 AM
To: CNAArndt@aol.com
Cc: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 100S's in movies and other movie cars


In the original version of Steamboat Willy, I believe he is driving the
protype Sunbeam Mouser with centre steering. Did anyone see that? It had
Lucas P-100s on it and I believe it had early experimental Michelin
radials on the left lide. Or was it the right side? From the sounds, the
engine was a Duryea 6 cylinder. Although the French Ruby 6 had a simular
exhaust note.





From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 19:34:52 EST
Subject: Re: Any NC Healey Action in March?





From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 19:48:41 EST
Subject: March 20 Rallye

Click here: http://www.carolinahealeys.com/march2004.pdf 





From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 05:19:45 -0800
Subject: Re: European Sports Car Museum

East coast:

Toad Hall Sports Car Museum at the Simmons Homestead Inn
in Hyannis Port, Massachusetts. This is the personal collection
of Bill Putman, certified car nut.

http://www.billputman.com/Bills-cars.htm

Takes a long time to load but it's fun!
This guy has more red cars than anyone in the world!

David
BN1
San Diego
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Scott Willis
  To: Lists, Healey
  Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 3:59 PM
  Subject: European Sports Car Museum


  Fellers,
  Is there a museum in the US that has a good collection of 50's and 60's
cars?
  I am interested in all European marques?

  I was just in Reno and I stopped by the Harrah's National Automobile
Museum.
  It had a fabulous collection of prewar US cars but they were light on
Eurpean
  makes.

  I want to mark my map in case I am near anything of interest.
  Cheers,
  Scott
  Mashed BN7





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 20:56:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Any NC Healey Action in March?

Tom


> [Original Message]
> From: Golding, Frank <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
> To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/3/04 7:08:06 PM
> Subject: Any NC Healey Action in March?
>
> List,
>
> I'm flying out to North Carolina on the 18th of March with my wife who
will
> be in a quilting class for 3 days up in Mount Airy.  I got 3 days to kill,
> and was wondering if there's any Healey Happenings up in the Northern part
> of North Carolina or the Southern part of Virginia between the dates of
the
> 18th and the 21st?  Guess I could go fishing?
>
> Cheers
>
> Frank
> 1960 BN7 # 10610





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 20:00:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: 100S's in movies and other movie cars - Mickey Mouse &

You may find this hard to believe, but Mickey Mouse's
car is actually a Bantam Roadster, which is a copy of
the American Austin, which is a licensed copy of the
Austin Minicar originally built in the 20's.

That means there is a connection between Mickey Mouse
and Austin Healey, if you can believe it.

FYI the Bantams & American Austins got about 50 miles
to the gallon - about on par with the new Toyota Prius
Hybrid Car.  That's part of the reason why so many
Bantams are still around... eventhough they only ever
made about 3,000 of them in the 30's, they were highly
sought after during WWII because of gas rationing.

After the war was over many also survived the crusher
because they got used alot in Hollywood movies and
circuses (for clown cars)... and Mickey got one for
himself as well.

Here's a great picture of Mickey & Minnie in his world
famous Bantam:

http://www.ukexpert.co.uk/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=1553

The only way to enjoy an "Austin" Roadster... with
your girl!

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8


--- i erbs <eyera3@comcast.net> wrote:
> LOL
> I ERBS
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of R.J. Denton
> Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 10:06 AM
> To: CNAArndt@aol.com
> Cc: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: 100S's in movies and other movie cars
> 
> 
> In the original version of Steamboat Willy, I
> believe he is driving the
> protype Sunbeam Mouser with centre steering. Did
> anyone see that? It had
> Lucas P-100s on it and I believe it had early
> experimental Michelin
> radials on the left lide. Or was it the right side?
> From the sounds, the
> engine was a Duryea 6 cylinder. Although the French
> Ruby 6 had a simular
> exhaust note.





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 20:02:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 

1.5 to 3.5 is correct.  You don't want too much
pressure....  float cut off jet can't handle it.

Regards,

alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- ggilliam@usol.com wrote:
> Healeyites,
>   I am preparing to purchase a Facet fuel pump as a
> spare for my early 
> BN4, but I don't recall which pressure range pump is
> the correct 
> one....1.5 to 3.5 or 2.5 to 4.5 psi?
> 
>   Also, does anyone have a used set of seat slides,
> driver or 
> passenger, that they would like to sell?
> 
>  Thanks all,
>  
> Gordy





From <Ian.Harrison at csiro.au>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 19:14:46 +1100
Subject: Steering box BN4, etc

can anybody tell me what other English vehicles had the same type of steering 
box installed, I am thinking perhaps some of the Austin, Morris and Wolsley 
cars may have had them fitted 

many thanks

Ian





From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 07:20:37 -0600
Subject: BN4 Distributor Caps and ignition wires

Does anyone have the Lucas numbers for the following?

Distributor Cap
Ignition Rotor 
Points & Condenser 

Was the factory distributor for the BN4 cap side entry or screw in?  My car
has a screw in type cap, but I think that is not correct. 

Also, does anyone offhand know how many feet of copper core ignition wire is
needed for a 6-cyl Healey?

Thanks
Patton 



-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX 
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/

For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2004 07:13:01 -0700
Subject: Re: BN4 Distributor Caps and ignition wires

The cap was side entry.

I don't have the Lucas part #'s.

You need enough ignition wire to reach from each sparkplug to the 
distributor cap plus a wire from the cap to the coil. Be sure to use a 
little extra length to allow for cold weather shrinkage.

Dave Russell
BN2

Patton Dickson wrote:
> Spring tune up time!!!!
> 
> Does anyone have the Lucas numbers for the following?
> 
> Distributor Cap
> Ignition Rotor 
> Points & Condenser 
> 
> Was the factory distributor for the BN4 cap side entry or screw in?  My car
> has a screw in type cap, but I think that is not correct. 
> 
> Also, does anyone offhand know how many feet of copper core ignition wire is
> needed for a 6-cyl Healey?
> 
> Thanks
> Patton 





From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 06:18:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: European Sports Car Museum (sort of)

I find the RM Auction at the Double Tree Hotel in
Monterey CA the week of the Historic Car Races to have
the best collection - 

For the $25 price of admission, it is hard to beat,
and funny thing is they must have quite an extensive
inventory, as you rarely see the same cars
year-to-year...:)

Dean BN7

--- Scott Willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Fellers,
> Is there a museum in the US that has a good
> collection of 50's and 60's cars?
> I am interested in all European marques?


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what youre looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com





From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 06:34:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Nice Healey Spotlight on Speed - Sports Car Revolution

The show is targeted at the young Honda/Acura-tuner
kids, but just as I was to turn away - a segment on
the Healey started.  They highlighted a white BJ8,
drove it on some back country roads, and praised the
good looks, sound and power.  They ended with a
statement something like "...and this is the way it
was done in the '60s...now back to fitting a F1 wing
on your CRX."

Happy to see that our old Healeys are still cool with
the young crowd!

Dean BN7

  

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what youre looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com





From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 07:21:01 -0800
Subject: Re: BN4 Distributor Caps and ignition wires

Coil to Distributor  11"
#1 Plug                  13.5"
#2 Plug                  12"
#3 Plug                   9"
#4 Plug                  11"
#5 Plug                  11.5"
#6 Plug                  16"

Can't help you on the other parts.


bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 5:20 AM
Subject: BN4 Distributor Caps and ignition wires


> Spring tune up time!!!!
> 
> Does anyone have the Lucas numbers for the following?
> 
> Distributor Cap
> Ignition Rotor 
> Points & Condenser 
> 
> Was the factory distributor for the BN4 cap side entry or screw in?  My car
> has a screw in type cap, but I think that is not correct. 
> 
> Also, does anyone offhand know how many feet of copper core ignition wire is
> needed for a 6-cyl Healey?
> 
> Thanks
> Patton 





From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 10:47:17 -0500
Subject: Seat slides

Auction ends around 6 pm Thursday!

Keith Pennell





From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 10:23:16 -0600
Subject: RE: BN4 Distributor Caps and ignition wires

There is a brand new Tractors Supply around the corner. I think I am going
to get the braided cloth yellow and black wires for looks though.

I saw on the same site there was a point set and condensor with Napa
numbers.  Do you know which distributor are they for?

Patton

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Slater [mailto:rob@gto.net] 
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 8:53 AM
To: Dave & Marlene; Patton Dickson
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BN4 Distributor Caps and ignition wires


If you go to this web address there is a source for a wiring set .
http://www.ahcso.com/Tech%20Talk/Spark%20Plug%20Wiring%20Set.htm





From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 11:08:41 -0600
Subject: RE: BN4 Distributor Caps and ignition wires

Patton

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Patton Dickson
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 10:23 AM
To: 'Bob Slater'
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: BN4 Distributor Caps and ignition wires


Thanks Bob, 

There is a brand new Tractors Supply around the corner. I think I am going
to get the braided cloth yellow and black wires for looks though.

I saw on the same site there was a point set and condensor with Napa
numbers.  Do you know which distributor are they for?

Patton





From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 11:37:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Meet in Ventura 

Go to www.austin-healey.org. calendar, CHW2004, (under link).

Hope this helps.

Kirk Kvam



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 8:59 AM
Subject: Healey Meet in Ventura 


> I seem to have misplaced the details for the Healey
> Meet coming up in spring in Ventura California.  Sorry
> to blast the list, but could someone please point me
> in the right direction regarding registration, and...
> 
> Thanks
> Dean BN7





From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2004 14:14:03 -0800
Subject: California Legislative Alert-30 Year Exemption

> Here we go again!  As predicted, legislation has been reintroduced in the
> California Assembly to repeal the state's current rolling emissions test
> exemption for vehicles 30 years old and older.  A.B. 2683 repeals the current
> pro-hobbyist exemption and replaces it with a provision requiring the
> permanent testing of all 1976 and newer model vehicles.  This year, the bill
> was introduced by California State Assemblywoman Sally Lieber (D-District 22).
> 
> 
> We Urge You to Contact Assemblywoman Lieber and Your Own State Assembly Member
> Immediately to Oppose A.B. 2683
> Existing law in California exempts all vehicles 30-years old and older from
> emissions testing.

Lieber:
Assemblywoman.Lieber@assembly.ca.gov

Find your Assembly person here:

http://www.assembly.ca.gov/acs/acsframeset7text.htm
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6





From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 09:12:29 +1100
Subject: Re: 100S's in movies and other movie cars - Mickey Mouse & 

Also, this was the first public unveiling of the 9 lift a dot hood fastening
system (later used on the early Bugeye Sprite), and of course, the Bugeye
Sprite/ Healey Works Rally headlight pods .......

Who said there was nothing new in car design?...

Chris

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 3:00 PM
Subject: RE: 100S's in movies and other movie cars - Mickey Mouse & Austin
Healey!!


> Guys -
>
> You may find this hard to believe, but Mickey Mouse's
> car is actually a Bantam Roadster, which is a copy of
> the American Austin, which is a licensed copy of the
> Austin Minicar originally built in the 20's.
>
> That means there is a connection between Mickey Mouse
> and Austin Healey, if you can believe it.
>
> FYI the Bantams & American Austins got about 50 miles
> to the gallon - about on par with the new Toyota Prius
> Hybrid Car.  That's part of the reason why so many
> Bantams are still around... eventhough they only ever
> made about 3,000 of them in the 30's, they were highly
> sought after during WWII because of gas rationing.
>
> After the war was over many also survived the crusher
> because they got used alot in Hollywood movies and
> circuses (for clown cars)... and Mickey got one for
> himself as well.
>
> Here's a great picture of Mickey & Minnie in his world
> famous Bantam:
>
> http://www.ukexpert.co.uk/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=1553
>
> The only way to enjoy an "Austin" Roadster... with
> your girl!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
>
> --- i erbs <eyera3@comcast.net> wrote:
> > LOL
> > I ERBS
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of R.J. Denton
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 10:06 AM
> > To: CNAArndt@aol.com
> > Cc: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: 100S's in movies and other movie cars
> >
> >
> > In the original version of Steamboat Willy, I
> > believe he is driving the
> > protype Sunbeam Mouser





From "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette at comcast.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 17:45:18 -0500
Subject: Scam on Ebay alert+  But a must read for a good laugh...



             Before you read the email below, go out and look at the ebay
auction

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2464537416>
&item=2464537416



Now that ad looks too good to be true right?  Ok, I bit enough to ask the
owner about it and here is the response.  Talk about a scam that is very
apparent!!!  It has already been reported to Ebay and they stopped the
auction and are trying to get to the perpetrator who put it up.



Mike B

59 BT7

================================================

-----Original Message-----
From: Christine Sanders [mailto:christine_393@msn.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 2:34 PM
To: clearblk@aol.com
Subject: RE: Question for seller -- Item #2464537416



Hello and thank you for your interest
 I want to tell you a few words about the car.
 First of all the car is in perfect condition  and looks just like in the
 pictures.It is in imaculate condition and has no schrach on and hasn't
been  involved in any accident.
 The motor run very well. The title is clear ,it is not a salvage one.
 The car belongs to my brother.He died last week in a bike accident.I have
 legal documents from the authorities and i can sell the car, stay cool
about  this.
 The car is now in Hamburg as my brother lived there.I am willing to
sell  it and shipp it to any of the UE countries or to US.I will not ship to
any
 African,Asian or Eastern European countries.
 I know that the price is low but i have no use for the car and I want to
get  back home as soon as i sell it.
 The price I hope to obtain is  7700 $  (this price includes the 25%
shipping  to your door and insurance, the shipping cost is 1700$ - 2000$)
and if you
 agree  with this price we can start to complete the transaction.As i've
told
you,in  order to proceed with the deal i need a deposit of 2500USD.The
payment
must  be done using a money order service.
 I prefer money order because in this way i will ship the car in the same
day  you make the payment.As i've said my brother lived in Hamburg and now
i  arrived here to take care of his funerals and to solve his problems here
and  i want to get back home asap.

   You will arrange payment through western union  .You receive and inspect
  the  machine and then you have to send me the rest of the money.The
inspection period for  it is 3 days.
> Look here how things are going:
 l'm a serious seller with more than 2 years of experience in this
 field. l'm a fair trader with a very good feedback on ebay which is
 the proof that l have closed a lot of sucessful deals.
 You will have to make a deposit of  2500  USD   . You will have to go
 personal to an western union office with the cash and send the money (the
 deposit of 2500  USD  ) from your name and address to WATH NAME DO YOU
WANT  (FOR YOUR SIGURANCE)NEVER CAN TUCH THE MONEY IN THIS WAY ONLY AFTER
YOU WILL  RECEIVED THE  CAR AND YOU WILL INSPECT IT YOU CAN CHANGE THE
RECEIVER NAME  WITH MY NAME.
 The transfer only need to be here in Hamburg , Germany for i can be
 avaible to check at my WU agent that you really have the money for this
 great car .in this case the money is deposited in westernunion on my
adress  but on your friend name.
 .I will ship the car as a gift for my best friend so you will not have to
 pay any custom taxes and I hope you will do the same thing when you will
 make the transfer because   this way we will not have to pay any other
taxes.
 After you will make the transfer you will email me the details:
 -the sender name
 -the sender address
 -the amount
 -the confirmation #-MTCN (money transfer control number)
 -the receiver name, that you choose to be and the adress.
 With all this informations i will be able to check the payment and
 after i will see that it is OK i will send  the car right away
 and you will receive it in  7 - 10 days at your door (if not less).

 Here is my name and my address where you must send the money:
 First name:Christine
Last name: Sanders
Address: Graumannsweg 7

zip: 22087

City: Hamburg
The  Germany
 Don't forget to give me your exact adress!!!
 Please let me know what you decision asap in order to prepare the
 shippment and because I have a lot of offers and I can not wait much
longer,

 Best Regards
 I shall be awaiting your response.
With upmost respect



>Title of item:           Austin Healey : 3000 Mark II Tri Cab

>Seller:                  bndoutwest

>Starts:                  Mar-03-04 13:28:33 PST

>Ends:                    Mar-06-04 13:28:33 PST

>Price:                   Starts at $7,699.00

>To view the item, go to:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2464537416

>

>

>

> Visit eBay, The World's Online Marketplace TM at http://www.ebay.com




  _____

FREE pop-up blocking with <http://g.msn.com/8HMBENUS/2728??PS=>  the new MSN
Toolbar - get it now!





From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu,  4 Mar 2004 17:02:45 -0600
Subject: wiring problem puzzle, have to wait a week

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7





From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 17:20:55 -0600
Subject: RE: Scam on Ebay alert+  But a must read for a good laugh...

Patton

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Brouillette
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 4:45 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Scam on Ebay alert+ But a must read for a good laugh...


Folks,

             Before you read the email below, go out and look at the ebay
auction

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2464537416





From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 18:41:17 -0500 
Subject: RE: Scam on Ebay alert+  But a must read for a good laugh...

Bill Moyer, BJ7





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 19:13:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Scam on Ebay alert+  But a must read for a good laugh...


> [Original Message]
> From: Mike Brouillette <m.brouillette@comcast.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/4/04 5:49:29 PM
> Subject: Scam on Ebay alert+  But a must read for a good laugh...
>
> Folks,
>
>
>
>              Before you read the email below, go out and look at the ebay
> auction
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2464537416>
> &item=2464537416
>
>
>
> Now that ad looks too good to be true right?  Ok, I bit enough to ask the
> owner about it and here is the response.  Talk about a scam that is very
> apparent!!!  It has already been reported to Ebay and they stopped the
> auction and are trying to get to the perpetrator who put it up.
>
>
>
> Mike B
>
> 59 BT7
>
> ================================================
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christine Sanders [mailto:christine_393@msn.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 2:34 PM
> To: clearblk@aol.com
> Subject: RE: Question for seller -- Item #2464537416
>
>
>
> Hello and thank you for your interest
>  I want to tell you a few words about the car.
>  First of all the car is in perfect condition  and looks just like in the
>  pictures.It is in imaculate condition and has no schrach on and hasn't
> been  involved in any accident.
>  The motor run very well. The title is clear ,it is not a salvage one.
>  The car belongs to my brother.He died last week in a bike accident.I have
>  legal documents from the authorities and i can sell the car, stay cool
> about  this.
>  The car is now in Hamburg as my brother lived there.I am willing to
> sell  it and shipp it to any of the UE countries or to US.I will not ship
to
> any
>  African,Asian or Eastern European countries.
>  I know that the price is low but i have no use for the car and I want to
> get  back home as soon as i sell it.
>  The price I hope to obtain is  7700 $  (this price includes the 25%
> shipping  to your door and insurance, the shipping cost is 1700$ - 2000$)
> and if you
>  agree  with this price we can start to complete the transaction.As i've
> told
> you,in  order to proceed with the deal i need a deposit of 2500USD.The
> payment
> must  be done using a money order service.
>  I prefer money order because in this way i will ship the car in the same
> day  you make the payment.As i've said my brother lived in Hamburg and now
> i  arrived here to take care of his funerals and to solve his problems
here
> and  i want to get back home asap.
>
>    You will arrange payment through western union  .You receive and
inspect
>   the  machine and then you have to send me the rest of the money.The
> inspection period for  it is 3 days.
> > Look here how things are going:
>  l'm a serious seller with more than 2 years of experience in this
>  field. l'm a fair trader with a very good feedback on ebay which is
>  the proof that l have closed a lot of sucessful deals.
>  You will have to make a deposit of  2500  USD   . You will have to go
>  personal to an western union office with the cash and send the money (the
>  deposit of 2500  USD  ) from your name and address to WATH NAME DO YOU
> WANT  (FOR YOUR SIGURANCE)NEVER CAN TUCH THE MONEY IN THIS WAY ONLY AFTER
> YOU WILL  RECEIVED THE  CAR AND YOU WILL INSPECT IT YOU CAN CHANGE THE
> RECEIVER NAME  WITH MY NAME.
>  The transfer only need to be here in Hamburg , Germany for i can be
>  avaible to check at my WU agent that you really have the money for this
>  great car .in this case the money is deposited in westernunion on my
> adress  but on your friend name.
>  .I will ship the car as a gift for my best friend so you will not have to
>  pay any custom taxes and I hope you will do the same thing when you will
>  make the transfer because   this way we will not have to pay any other
> taxes.
>  After you will make the transfer you will email me the details:
>  -the sender name
>  -the sender address
>  -the amount
>  -the confirmation #-MTCN (money transfer control number)
>  -the receiver name, that you choose to be and the adress.
>  With all this informations i will be able to check the payment and
>  after i will see that it is OK i will send  the car right away
>  and you will receive it in  7 - 10 days at your door (if not less).
>
>  Here is my name and my address where you must send the money:
>  First name:Christine
> Last name: Sanders
> Address: Graumannsweg 7
>
> zip: 22087
>
> City: Hamburg
> The  Germany
>  Don't forget to give me your exact adress!!!
>  Please let me know what you decision asap in order to prepare the
>  shippment and because I have a lot of offers and I can not wait much
> longer,
>
>  Best Regards
>  I shall be awaiting your response.
> With upmost respect
>
>
>
> >Title of item:           Austin Healey : 3000 Mark II Tri Cab
>
> >Seller:                  bndoutwest
>
> >Starts:                  Mar-03-04 13:28:33 PST
>
> >Ends:                    Mar-06-04 13:28:33 PST
>
> >Price:                   Starts at $7,699.00
>
> >To view the item, go to:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2464537416
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Visit eBay, The World's Online Marketplace TM at http://www.ebay.com
>
>
>
>
>   _____





From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Jay Fishbein" <type79@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 19:23:22 -0500
Subject: overdrive available

I also have a spare BN2 bell housing at John's which is available.

Allen Miller





From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 18:45:40 -0600
Subject: RE: BN4 Distributor Caps and ignition wires


> By the way, I meant to ask if anyone has a good picture of the bumblebee
> wires I can compare.  Also, am I right that the wires are 7mm?  I may have
> found a very inexpensive source.
>
> Patton
>
Healey and other spark plug wires for british cars of the 50s and 60s with
Lucas electrics are 7mm

Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1





From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2004 19:03:47 -0600
Subject: Web site Update

Just finished updating my web site. I've added a couple of
Doug Reid's articles  (Mr. Finespanner)  and in addition
I have added with Doug's permission an e-mail link via
a page called  "brake lines".  Doug is still making
brake and line lines for all models of Healeys.  You  can
drop him a note   following the instructions on the page.
Since my site is not a commercial site, there are no prices
for the brake or fuel lines given. This you must ask Doug
for and  as well as an estimate of shipping.

Kind regards
Ed
http://www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca
'65 BJ8





From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 20:32:53 -0500
Subject: Do you have a 710 on your Healey? 

 The mechanic gave her a  piece of paper and a pen and asked her to draw what
the piece looked like. She  drew a circle and in the middle of it wrote 710.
He then took her over to  another car which had its hood up and asked "is
there a 710 on this car?" She  pointed and said, "Of course, its right
there."

 If you're not sure what a  710 is, click here.

 http://rtccom.net/~mfjgolf/710.jpg

Cheers, JL

James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 18:42:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Do you have a 710 on your Healey? 

That's not a suprize.  Was she blonde?

;-)

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote:
>  A few days  ago I was having some work done at my
> car at a local garage. A
> female came in  and asked for a seven-hundred & ten.
> We all looked at each
> other and another customer asked, "What is a
> seven-hundred & ten?" She
> replied, "You know, the  little piece in the middle
> of the engine, I have lost
> it and need a new  one..
> 
>  The mechanic gave her a  piece of paper and a pen
> and asked her to draw what
> the piece looked like. She  drew a circle and in the
> middle of it wrote 710.
> He then took her over to  another car which had its
> hood up and asked "is
> there a 710 on this car?" She  pointed and said, "Of
> course, its right
> there."
> 
>  If you're not sure what a  710 is, click here.
> 
>  http://rtccom.net/~mfjgolf/710.jpg
> 
> Cheers, JL
> 
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II





From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2004 21:47:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Scam on Ebay alert+





From RobertH148 at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 22:39:43 EST
Subject: Re: Scam on Ebay alert+  But a must read for a good laugh...


Listed below is a website to contact to report fraud or to obtain information 
on Fraud.


Http://www.ifccfbi.gov

Bob Humphreys





From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2004 22:57:04 -0500
Subject: Re: European Sports Car Museum

The MG Car Museum in Westminster VT has a bunch
of MGs. MGs only (Gasp! Shudder!).

http://www.vmga.org/windham/westminmg.html

Go in October, when they have a Brit Car meet and
the leaves are turning red and yellow.

Kent





From "i erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 20:26:10 -0800
Subject: RE: European Sports Car Museum

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kent McLean
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 7:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: European Sports Car Museum


"Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>] wrote:
> Is there a museum in the US that has a good collection of 50's and 
> 60's cars? I am interested in all European marques?

The MG Car Museum in Westminster VT has a bunch
of MGs. MGs only (Gasp! Shudder!).

http://www.vmga.org/windham/westminmg.html

Go in October, when they have a Brit Car meet and
the leaves are turning red and yellow.

Kent





From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 00:15:20 EST
Subject: Re: Scam on Ebay alert+   But a must read for a good laugh...

Aloha
Perry





From Charlie Frazer <cfrazer at ballmer.uoregon.edu>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1904 11:49:00 -0800
Subject: BJ8 Bumper Bolts





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 02:31:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Bumper Bolts

You can buy two new bumper bolts from any healey parts
supplier.  If I recall they are a special bolt for
healeys with a slight curve in the head to fit in the
bumper channel.  Moss sells them for less than $3
apiece.  AHSpares - 1 Quid.  Cheap cheap.

if the heads are turning and that's why you can't
remove the bumper bolt... you may have to remove them
with a torch.  You can also try grind off the head...
but you have to be VERY careful not to scrape the
bumper chrome....

If the bolts are not turning, use a breaker bar with a
cheater pipe and that should definitely get it loose!

Good Luck -

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- Charlie Frazer <cfrazer@ballmer.uoregon.edu>
wrote:
> The two bumper bolts that protrude through the rear
> bumper on my BJ8 have
> different sized heads.  Would someone please let me
> know what head diameter
> is original?
> Anybody have any hints on busting loose bumper bolts
> with rusty threads?  I
> can remove the spring bars from the chassis with the
> bumper attached, but
> then need to get the bumper bolts loose.
> Thanks,
> Charlie





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 07:34:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Do you have a 710 on your Healey? 


> [Original Message]
> From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com>; List Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/4/04 9:46:26 PM
> Subject: Re: Do you have a 710 on your Healey? 
>
> James -
>
> That's not a suprize.  Was she blonde?





From "Martin Heim" <bn4 at onlinehome.de>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 15:57:57 +0100
Subject: 
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_Scam_on_Ebay_alert+__=A0But_a_must_read_for_a_good_lau?=

first I still can open the ended auction. Try just serching for item:
2464537416.
If you like, I can send you the page, I have copied it to my harddisk.

Second I did a telephone/address search in Hamburg.
There is a "Graumannsweg" in 22087 Hamburg, BUT no number 7, there are
numbers 1, 3, 5, 8, 9, 10... listed. And there are only two persons listed
in Hamburg with the last name "Saunders" living in the same house but a
different street. Well?? The missing number 7 is strange. To search further
it would be necessary to call someone living next to the missing number and
ask.

Best Regards

Martin
Germany (South, far away from Hamburg)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Scam on Ebay alert+  But a must read for a good laugh...


> I guess eBay pulled the plug before I could check out the auction. I would
laugh at the absurdity of the sellers response but wish I had been able to
see the format of the original auction text or photos.  This looks a lot
like a scam that caught me off guard on a Jaguar I was interested in.
*snip*
> Aloha
> Perry





From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2004 10:25:36 -0500
Subject: information





From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 12:18:34 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Bumper Bolts

I would advise against using anything more than reasonable force on the
nuts/bolts.  By that I mean no breaker bar or torch.  A torch may discolor
the chrome on the bumper from the heat and the breaker bar may round out the
hole in the bumper.  That hole is NOT a round hole, it is of a shape of the
upper shank of the bolt, sort of oval.

I would recommend careful grinding of the nut end to cut off the nut and
bolt.

Keith Pennell
Been there, done that, times several


> Charlie -
>
> You can buy two new bumper bolts from any healey parts
> supplier.  If I recall they are a special bolt for
> healeys with a slight curve in the head to fit in the
> bumper channel.  Moss sells them for less than $3
> apiece.  AHSpares - 1 Quid.  Cheap cheap.
>
> if the heads are turning and that's why you can't
> remove the bumper bolt... you may have to remove them
> with a torch.  You can also try grind off the head...
> but you have to be VERY careful not to scrape the
> bumper chrome....
>
> If the bolts are not turning, use a breaker bar with a
> cheater pipe and that should definitely get it loose!
>
> Good Luck -
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- Charlie Frazer <cfrazer@ballmer.uoregon.edu>
> wrote:
> > The two bumper bolts that protrude through the rear
> > bumper on my BJ8 have
> > different sized heads.  Would someone please let me
> > know what head diameter
> > is original?
> > Anybody have any hints on busting loose bumper bolts
> > with rusty threads?  I
> > can remove the spring bars from the chassis with the
> > bumper attached, but
> > then need to get the bumper bolts loose.
> > Thanks,
> > Charlie





From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 10:10:47 -0800 
Subject: 710, joke

 

In high school my friend Norm was dating a girl who had a brother. This
brother was not the swiftest person you could meet. This kid had a car and
the car gave him endless problems and he could never figure out why. He
considered himself a pretty good mechanic and wily to the ways of the
combustible engine and although he spent many hours working on this car, he
could never get it running properly.

Anyway, one day while driving this car the engine seized. Smoke pored out,
loud banging - death throes. That was the end of the car.

Later investigation revealed the engine was severely lacking oil. This
bloke's exasperated Dad asked him, "Why didn't you ever put any oil in the
dang thing?!!"

The kid revealed that he had, in fact, checked the oil level quite
frequently, and each time he pulled out the dipstick, it indicated right on
the stick that the oil level was just below "adequate" most of the time.

"Adequate..?" his father asked...



It turns out the stick read "Add A Quart".










CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail transmission, and any documents, files 
or previous e-mail messages attached to it, may contain information that is 
confidential and/or legally privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, 
or a person responsible for delivering it to the intended recipient, please DO 
NOT disclose the contents to another person, store or copy the information in 
any medium, or use any of the information contained in or attached to this 
transmission for any purpose. If you have received this transmission in error, 
please immediately notify the sender by reply email or at 
mailto:privacy@plantronics.com, and destroy the original transmission and its 
attachments without reading or saving in any manner.





From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2004 13:27:43 -0500
Subject: Re: European Sports Car Museum

Charlie

i erbs wrote:

>Be careful, The site says it was last updated in 1995!
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Kent McLean
>Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 7:57 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: European Sports Car Museum
>
>
>"Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>] wrote:
>  
>
>>Is there a museum in the US that has a good collection of 50's and 
>>60's cars? I am interested in all European marques?
>>    
>>
>
>The MG Car Museum in Westminster VT has a bunch
>of MGs. MGs only (Gasp! Shudder!).
>
>http://www.vmga.org/windham/westminmg.html
>
>Go in October, when they have a Brit Car meet and
>the leaves are turning red and yellow.
>
>Kent





From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 11:11:09 -0800
Subject: Fw: Healey Meet in Ventura / Try again

Kirk Kvam

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Snover" <rsnover@ix.netcom.com>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: Healey Meet in Ventura 


> Hi Kirk,
> 
> At 11:37 AM 3/4/2004, you wrote:
> >Hey Dean,
> >Go to www.austin-healey.org. calendar, CHW2004, (under link).
> 
> http://www.austin-healey.org/ opens an empty page at the moment. Maybe 
> somebody's working on the site?
> 
> Rick 





From ZManDino at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 14:12:25 EST
Subject: Re: European Sports Car Museum

If you visit Northern California I think you will find the Blackhawk Museum 
in Danville worth the stop. It houses a fabulous collection of cars in pristine 
condition ranging from the '20s to the '70s. They are dramatically displayed 
in a beautiful setting. Check it out. Danville is not far from San Francisco 
on the East side of the bay.

Alex. Z. 
'60 BN7





From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 22:15:03 -0800
Subject: Alloy valve covers for the six





From Charlie Frazer <cfrazer at ballmer.uoregon.edu>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2004 13:34:09 -0800
Subject: Key Question





From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 07:45:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Key Question

I assume you could do the same thing with the glove box (my car no have
one).

If you are uncomfrotable doing such a thing I am sure a locksmith shop could
do it for you, probably fairly cheaply if you pull the locks and bring them
into the shop.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charlie Frazer" <cfrazer@ballmer.uoregon.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 3:34 PM
Subject: Key Question


> Sorry for another trivial question so soon after bumper bolts, but how
many
> keys came with the original BJ8?
> I have an ignition key to my car that also fits the doors, but not the
glove
> box or trunk.  I don't have keys to either of these.
> If I reconstruct using Moss parts, it appears I'll have to install new
lock
> cores for glove box and trunk, and end up with two more keys. Somehow, I
> remember it was simpler than that when I owned a BJ8 in 1968.  Is there a
> different source for the lock cores, or a way to modify the locks for same
> key access?
> Thanks for your suggestions and advice.
> Charlie Frazer





From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 09:21:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Key Question

The key for the glovebox should also fit the trunk lock.  The number for the
glovebox key is stamped on the face of the lock.  With that number, contact
Pete Groh (keyguy4@yahoo.com) and he may have a NOS key to fit it.  He
provided a NOS glovebox key for my BJ8.  There are other specialists in keys
(e.g., Jamie Coobatis), but I don't have their e-mail address at hand.  I can
probably dig that up if you need it.

If Pete doesn't have a pre-cut key, and if you can get a blank, then contact
me and I can put you in touch with any number of people whose cars use the
same key (another benefit of a central database for the cars).  Maybe they
could loan you one for duplication.

Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Charlie Frazer
  To: healeys@autox.team.net
  Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 4:34 PM
  Subject: Key Question


  Sorry for another trivial question so soon after bumper bolts, but how many
  keys came with the original BJ8?
  I have an ignition key to my car that also fits the doors, but not the
glove
  box or trunk.  I don't have keys to either of these.
  If I reconstruct using Moss parts, it appears I'll have to install new lock
  cores for glove box and trunk, and end up with two more keys. Somehow, I
  remember it was simpler than that when I owned a BJ8 in 1968.  Is there a
  different source for the lock cores, or a way to modify the locks for same
  key access?
  Thanks for your suggestions and advice.
  Charlie Frazer





From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 09:45:14 -0600 
Subject: two more oil stories [was RE: 710, joke]

1) Back in the late 1970s, I had a girlfriend, about 22, who owned a
banana-yellow colored Toyota Corona with brown vinyl roof (truly an ugly
car, but not quite as ugly as the Aztec). She had bought it about a year
before we met.

After we'd been going out for about a year, I asked one day, "Just out
of curiosity, where do you get your oil changed?"

She looked at me and asked, "What's an oil change?"

I couldn't get off the oil plug with a regular wrench. The garage
couldn't get it off with an impact wrench. Finally, they got it off with
an ENORMOUS breaker bar.

The oil was, as you might suspect, quite thick. But the engine kept on
going, and was still fine when she sold the car. Even then, Toyotas were
amazing.

2) A couple of years ago, my ex-wife took in our Isuzu Trooper to a gas
station with a well-known oil company brand name to have the oil
changed.

As she drove it away, she noticed almost immediately that the oil
warning light was on.

She made a U-turn, drove it a few blocks back to the station and told
them. They took it "into the back," and returned the Trooper to her a
few minutes later, saying "Oh, it was no problem, just a bad oil
pressure sensor."

She took them at face value and drove away.

Two weeks later, the engine threw a rod on a snowy Christmas Eve as she
was driving with our two daughters along the Capital Beltway outside
Washington, D.C., an extremely unsafe place in which to break down. The
engine had only about 60k miles on it, and we were the original owners
of the vehicle.

Clearly, what had happened was that the gas station had drained the oil
but forgot to refill it. When she took the Trooper back, they said (to
themselves) "oops," filled it up with oil, and hoped for the best. But,
obviously, the bearings had been damaged. (This cannot be proved, of
course, but the evidence is highly circumstantial.)

Anyway ... the station of course denied that they'd forgotten to put in
any oil. The giant oil company's consumer relations department said
"Sorry, it's an independent dealer. We have no responsibility."

At that point, since I'm in the public relations business, I wrote a
press release with the headline: "Trust your car to XXX? Not exactly",
and described the incident, emphasizing the "breakdown-on-snow-Christmas
Eve-with-two-kids angle" and the "giant oil company won't stand behind
its brand" angle.

Then I faxed the release to the company's PR department, with a note
saying, "Dear counterparts: If I don't hear back from your company
within 24 hours, I'm sending out this press release."

They called back within two hours.

After some weeks of negotiation, the company forked over $3,500 for
installation of a rebuilt engine "as a goodwill measure." I agreed,
informally, that I would not trash the company.

My key piece of evidence, besides the fact that the engine had blown up,
was the fact that the garage admitted that the red oil light had been on
when she brought back the car. If they hadn't admitted that, we probably
would have had nothing.

Anyway, it was a happy ending. I wound up with the Trooper, which just
passed the 100k mark, and the rebuilt engine has been excellent.

It's interesting that another auto chain where I take my car for service
has a big sticker on the clear plastic envelopes where the service
technician puts the paperwork when he's finished with the car. In big
black letters, it says: OIL IN? LUGS TIGHT?

That clearly indicates the most frequent errors in the auto repair
business!

-Graham

-----Original Message-----
From: Golding, Frank [mailto:frank.golding@plantronics.com] 
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 1:11 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 710, joke

This sounds like a joke but it's a true story:

 

In high school my friend Norm was dating a girl who had a brother. This
brother was not the swiftest person you could meet. This kid had a car
and
the car gave him endless problems and he could never figure out why. He
considered himself a pretty good mechanic and wily to the ways of the
combustible engine and although he spent many hours working on this car,
he
could never get it running properly.

Anyway, one day while driving this car the engine seized. Smoke pored
out,
loud banging - death throes. That was the end of the car.

Later investigation revealed the engine was severely lacking oil. This
bloke's exasperated Dad asked him, "Why didn't you ever put any oil in
the
dang thing?!!"

The kid revealed that he had, in fact, checked the oil level quite
frequently, and each time he pulled out the dipstick, it indicated right
on
the stick that the oil level was just below "adequate" most of the time.

"Adequate..?" his father asked...



It turns out the stick read "Add A Quart".





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 08:13:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Alloy valve covers for the six

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8


--- Ray Juncal <gonzo18@mindspring.com> wrote:
> Listers
>     For some time now I have been working on
> producing finned aluminum valve
> covers for the Healey six cylinder engine like the
> ones I make for the 100-4 .
> Well it finally happened.  You can take a look at >
> www.healey.glassmug.com. <
> Thank you to all on the list who helped out with
> suggestions , information ,
> comments and support.  I hope you guys like them.  I
> would like to hear what
> you think.
> Healey on!
> Ray Juncal





From <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 11:40:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Alloy valve covers for the six

Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> 
> From: "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18@mindspring.com>
> Date: 2004/03/06 Sat AM 01:15:03 EST
> To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Alloy valve covers for the six
> 
> Listers
>     For some time now I have been working on producing finned aluminum valve
> covers for the Healey six cylinder engine like the ones I make for the 100-4 .
> Well it finally happened.  You can take a look at > www.healey.glassmug.com. <
> Thank you to all on the list who helped out with suggestions , information ,
> comments and support.  I hope you guys like them.  I would like to hear what
> you think.
> Healey on!
> Ray Juncal





From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat,  6 Mar 2004 11:33:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Key Question





From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 13:48:36 EST
Subject: Healey in Magazine

The "Photo Feature" is of a "1956 Ausin-Healey 100M Roadster" in resplendent 
Florida Green over White, with a black interior piped in white. It's owned by 
Dan Frakes of Novi, Michigan. Overall, from what I can see from the pictures, 
the car was restored to a high standard of originality (well, the cockpit 
surrounds look a little highly polished for my taste, and the engine color is a 
little on the Morris green side) and it certainly reflects well on the marque. 
I 
have no records of the car ever being through Concours and don't know Frakes, 
but this is certainly a car he can be proud of.

Cheers
Gary Anderson
Registrar, AH Concours Registry





From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 14:33:55 -0500
Subject: Oil won't stay in!

I had given the transmission and overdrive the once over. Replacing the front
and rear seals and doing a thorough cleaning. The Overdrive had been in a
wooden box apart, sitting in a barn for 30 years with all kinds of saw dust
and animal droppings etc. The transmission wouldn't even turn when I started
the cleaning job, but when I was finished it turned nicely and the gears,
although with some difficulty, could move in and out of position.

I bolted everything up and got it on the engine and into the rolling chassis.

I filled the tranny up with 30 weight ND oil and almost immediately it started
to leak out. I had install new gaskets where the OD mates with the back end of
the adapter plate. I never disconnected the tranny from the bell housing or
the adapter plate at the back. Most of the Leak seems to be from the hole at
the bottom of the bell housing so it must be coming from the front seal, which
I replaced with a new one. I'm wondering if I put it in correctly. I'm sure I
put it in the way the old one came out. But I don't know if that was in
correctly.

Can someone tell me which way this seal goes in. Flat side forward? I think is
the way I put it in.

The other question I have has to do with the Overdrive. It doesn't seem to
have a gasket sealing the two halves. Is this normal. Sure does seem to
promote leaks.

I dread yanking the tranny but this leak is real bad.
Thanks

Sincerely


Rick Neves
'56 BN-2


_._


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.613 / Virus Database: 392 - Release Date: 03/04/2004





From <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 15:28:41 -0500
Subject: must have parts





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 16:36:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: must have parts

Alan

--- gregwilkinson@adelphia.net wrote:
> Listers'
> I came across this site looking for fuel line
> fittings. 
> http://www.kalecoauto.com They have some must have
> items including "The Budget lowering kit" found
> under accessories.
> Enjoy,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8





From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 18:10:13 -0700
Subject: HD8 Rebuild

Looking for expereince/recommendation here.  I pressurised my fuel system
today (after a 3 year rebuild/restore) and got more than my share of carb
leaks.  Not just floats either so I am headed down the rebuild path.  I
actually have a rebuild kit I just hadn't gotten to put in (an SU kit from
Joe Curto).  My throttle shafts seem ok from what I can tell ..  so I think
I am just looking at the remaining portion of the rebuild.

Is this at all finicky?  Am I better off sending my carbs to Joe Curto or is
this an easy , methodical bench rebuild process?  ...  Thanks.

Jim Sailer
66 BJ8





From "Lynda Lawrence" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 18:19:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Key Question

Bill Lawrence


On Mar 6, 2004, at 10:33 AM, Jerry Wall wrote:

> but, if like on most healeys, the boot lock assembly has been replaced 
> because of a broken escutcheon, you still end up with 3 keys unless 
> you rework the boot lock.  i would venture a guess that very few 
> healeys still have the original boot lock assembly.
> BJ8Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Hi, Charlie -
>>
>> The key for the glovebox should also fit the trunk lock.  The number 
>> for the
>> glovebox key is stamped on the face of the lock.  With that number, 
>> contact
>> Pete Groh (keyguy4@yahoo.com) and he may have a NOS key to fit it.  He
>> provided a NOS glovebox key for my BJ8.  There are other specialists 
>> in keys
>> (e.g., Jamie Coobatis), but I don't have their e-mail address at 
>> hand.  I can
>> probably dig that up if you need it.
>>
>> If Pete doesn't have a pre-cut key, and if you can get a blank, then 
>> contact
>> me and I can put you in touch with any number of people whose cars 
>> use the
>> same key (another benefit of a central database for the cars).  Maybe 
>> they
>> could loan you one for duplication.
>>
>> Cheers!
>> Steve Byers
>> HBJ8L/36666
>> BJ8 Registry
>> Havelock, NC  USA
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Charlie Frazer
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 4:34 PM
>> Subject: Key Question
>>
>>
>> Sorry for another trivial question so soon after bumper bolts, but 
>> how many
>> keys came with the original BJ8?
>> I have an ignition key to my car that also fits the doors, but not the
>> glove
>> box or trunk.  I don't have keys to either of these.
>> If I reconstruct using Moss parts, it appears I'll have to install 
>> new lock
>> cores for glove box and trunk, and end up with two more keys. 
>> Somehow, I
>> remember it was simpler than that when I owned a BJ8 in 1968.  Is 
>> there a
>> different source for the lock cores, or a way to modify the locks for 
>> same
>> key access?
>> Thanks for your suggestions and advice.
>> Charlie Frazer
>>
>> *





From "Lynda Lawrence" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 18:51:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil won't stay in!

The joints between the front and rear overdrive housings didn't have 
gaskets because the are a machined interference fit on the brake ring. 
when these are properly assembled (in my limited experience) they don't 
leak.
The troublesome spot in the overdrive for leakage is the ends of the 
operating shaft where they pass through the housing. There is a seal 
(O-ring?) on each end and with a car that old they are almost certainly 
perished.
The one on the solenoid lever housing is simple to replace, but the one 
on the setting lever side is a pain in the A** because you have to 
remove the setting lever and the drive pin that holds it doesn't always 
cooperate.

Good luck with your sealing project. If it's any consolation my BN1 is 
a leaker too and I am still working up the courage to plug some of the 
holes.

Bill Lawrence


On Mar 6, 2004, at 12:33 PM, Rick &7& Neves wrote:

> I recently got my freshly rebuilt engine installed into my BN-2.
>
> I had given the transmission and overdrive the once over. Replacing 
> the front
> and rear seals and doing a thorough cleaning. The Overdrive had been 
> in a
> wooden box apart, sitting in a barn for 30 years with all kinds of saw 
> dust
> and animal droppings etc. The transmission wouldn't even turn when I 
> started
> the cleaning job, but when I was finished it turned nicely and the 
> gears,
> although with some difficulty, could move in and out of position.
>
> I bolted everything up and got it on the engine and into the rolling 
> chassis.
>
> I filled the tranny up with 30 weight ND oil and almost immediately it 
> started
> to leak out. I had install new gaskets where the OD mates with the 
> back end of
> the adapter plate. I never disconnected the tranny from the bell 
> housing or
> the adapter plate at the back. Most of the Leak seems to be from the 
> hole at
> the bottom of the bell housing so it must be coming from the front 
> seal, which
> I replaced with a new one. I'm wondering if I put it in correctly. I'm 
> sure I
> put it in the way the old one came out. But I don't know if that was in
> correctly.
>
> Can someone tell me which way this seal goes in. Flat side forward? I 
> think is
> the way I put it in.
>
> The other question I have has to do with the Overdrive. It doesn't 
> seem to
> have a gasket sealing the two halves. Is this normal. Sure does seem to
> promote leaks.
>
> I dread yanking the tranny but this leak is real bad.
> Thanks
>
> Sincerely
>
>
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2





From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 23:55:28 EST
Subject: Re: HD8 Rebuild

Rick
San Diego

In a message dated 3/6/04 5:11:18 PM, heliskier@direcway.com writes:


>
> Is this at all finicky?  Am I better off sending my carbs to Joe Curto or
is
> this an easy , methodical bench rebuild process?  ...  Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8





From "Dennis Broughel" <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 17:38:19 -0500
Subject: Longbridge parts


Dennis Broughel
brougheldp@earthlink.net





From jbpate at attglobal.net
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2004 18:19:45 -0500
Subject: Fuel lines and SU pump





From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 15:40:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Hualing advice.





From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 20:01:39 -0500
Subject: RE: Fuel lines and SU pump

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of jbpate@attglobal.net
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 6:20 PM
To: Healey
Subject: Fuel lines and SU pump

Does anyone know the thread sizes used from the tank to the SU pump. 
 What does 1/8" NPT mean?   1/8 BSP  (British Pipe Threads)? ,   6AN? 
 What is used in the Healey late models?  
What's the best way to form the fuel line to keep from kinking it? 
 Thanks Barry Pate 





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 17:21:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: HD8 Rebuild

Rebuilding HD8s are pretty easy and straighforward...
no special tools or experience needed.  Just a couple
key things:

1) Be sure to replace the rubber o ring around the
slow idle speed adjustor screw, otherwise you might
get air leaks.

2) Definitely get the teflon throttle shaft bushing
that www.britishcarspecialists.com sells just for the
HD8.  This makes a HUGE difference in your carbs
keeping rock solid idle over several years... the
original type fibre bushings will wear after about
5,000 miles.. the teflon ones are much better.

3) Do not loosen the stuff assiated with how the jet
mounts to the carb (I forgot the name of these parts).
 If you loosen it you'll have a devil of the time
recentering the jet unless you have the proper tools.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8


--- James Sailer <heliskier@direcway.com> wrote:
> HI all,
> 
> Looking for expereince/recommendation here.  I
> pressurised my fuel system
> today (after a 3 year rebuild/restore) and got more
> than my share of carb
> leaks.  Not just floats either so I am headed down
> the rebuild path.  I
> actually have a rebuild kit I just hadn't gotten to
> put in (an SU kit from
> Joe Curto).  My throttle shafts seem ok from what I
> can tell ..  so I think
> I am just looking at the remaining portion of the
> rebuild.
> 
> Is this at all finicky?  Am I better off sending my
> carbs to Joe Curto or is
> this an easy , methodical bench rebuild process? 
> ...  Thanks.
> 
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 20:33:34 -0500
Subject: RE: Hualing advice.


> [Original Message]
> From: Skip Besaw <besaw55@yahoo.com>
> To: AHCUSA Mailing List <ahcusa@autox.team.net>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/7/04 6:45:34 PM
> Subject: Hualing advice.
>
> Hi,
>  
> I've decided that I will want to trailer my BJ6 to a few events that are
over 200 miles from my home. I drive the car locally but my intention to
attend as many events as possible coupled with the great distance of some
i.e. Lake George NY from Boston will greatly increase the mileage on the
car and 4-5 hours of highway driveing is not always practical..
>  
> I am looking for the smallest feasible enclosed trailer and it needs to
allow for the low clearance of a 1967 3000. Any suggestions on makes and
models would be a great help. Thank you
>  
> Skip  BJ8





From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 20:29:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Hualing advice.

James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II





From Greg Wilkinson <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 20:39:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel lines and SU pump

Good Luck,
Greg
67 BJ8
> 
> From: jbpate@attglobal.net
> Subject: Fuel lines and SU pump
> 
> Does anyone know the thread sizes used from the tank to the SU pump. 
>  What does 1/8" NPT mean?   1/8 BSP  (British Pipe Threads)? ,   6AN? 
>  What is used in the Healey late models?  
> What's the best way to form the fuel line to keep from kinking it? 
>  Thanks Barry Pate 





From "Bob Brown" <BlkBT7 at aol.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 19:41:21 -0600
Subject: RE: Hualing advice.

tom felts wrote on 3/7/2004, 7:33 PM:

 > BJ6's should be driven:):):)
 >
 >

 > >
 > > I've decided that I will want to trailer my BJ6 to a few events that
 > are





From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 17:42:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Hualing advice.

tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net> wrote:
BJ6's should be driven:):):)


> [Original Message]
> From: Skip Besaw 
> To: AHCUSA Mailing List ; Healey List

> Date: 3/7/04 6:45:34 PM
> Subject: Hualing advice.
>
> Hi,
> 
> I've decided that I will want to trailer my BJ6 to a few events that are
over 200 miles from my home. I drive the car locally but my intention to
attend as many events as possible coupled with the great distance of some
i.e. Lake George NY from Boston will greatly increase the mileage on the
car and 4-5 hours of highway driveing is not always practical..
> 
> I am looking for the smallest feasible enclosed trailer and it needs to
allow for the low clearance of a 1967 3000. Any suggestions on makes and
models would be a great help. Thank you
> 
> Skip BJ8





From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 17:45:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Hualing advice.

Bob Brown <BlkBT7@aol.com> wrote:
I want to see this BJ6!

tom felts wrote on 3/7/2004, 7:33 PM:

> BJ6's should be driven:):):)
>
>

> >
> > I've decided that I will want to trailer my BJ6 to a few events that
> are





from a late '70s Mercury Capri.
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 20:08:13 -0600 
Subject: RE: Hualing advice.

-Graham


-----Original Message-----
From: Skip Besaw [mailto:besaw55@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 8:45 PM
To: Bob Brown; tom felts
Cc: Skip Besaw; AHCUSA Mailing List; Healey List
Subject: RE: Hualing advice.

Bob,
 
Thanks, I put this reply in the "Holy crap I don't type for a living but
you still know what I meant folder" Anything you care to contribute ith
the way of something for the "Answer Folder"  

Bob Brown <BlkBT7@aol.com> wrote:
I want to see this BJ6!

tom felts wrote on 3/7/2004, 7:33 PM:

> BJ6's should be driven:):):)
>
>

> >
> > I've decided that I will want to trailer my BJ6 to a few events that
> are

***   





From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 19:54:48 -0800
Subject: another bad posting

This looks liked the same person posting another Healey cheap!





From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 22:06:09 -0800
Subject: RE: another bad posting

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031


> [Original Message]
> From: Jerry Costanzo <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/7/2004 9:03:23 PM
> Subject: another bad posting
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
2
> 465392013#mainImage
>
> This looks liked the same person posting another Healey cheap!





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 22:59:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: another bad posting

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- Len and/or Marge <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> Engine:  6.0 L (six liter?).  8 - cylinder?.   I
> don't think so.  Not
> according to the photo.
> 
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA
> 1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> 
> 
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Jerry Costanzo <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: 3/7/2004 9:03:23 PM
> > Subject: another bad posting
> >
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
> 2
> > 465392013#mainImage
> >
> > This looks liked the same person posting another
> Healey cheap!





From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 23:06:23 -0800
Subject: RE: another bad posting

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031


> [Original Message]
> From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: Len and/or Marge <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; Healeys Mailing List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/7/2004 10:59:42 PM
> Subject: RE: another bad posting
>
> If you follow the lead to the part that talks about
> the condition of the vehicle, its says the
> "air-conditioning" system is in excellent shape!
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- Len and/or Marge <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > Engine:  6.0 L (six liter?).  8 - cylinder?.   I
> > don't think so.  Not
> > according to the photo.
> > 
> > (The Other) Len
> > Vacaville, CA
> > 1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> > 
> > 
> > > [Original Message]
> > > From: Jerry Costanzo <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Date: 3/7/2004 9:03:23 PM
> > > Subject: another bad posting
> > >
> > >
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
> > 2
> > > 465392013#mainImage
> > >
> > > This looks liked the same person posting another
> > Healey cheap!





From =?iso-8859-1?q?Paul=20Baker?= <paulbaker51 at yahoo.co.uk>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 09:19:16 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re: Hualing advice.



                
---------------------------------
  Yahoo! Messenger - Communicate instantly..."Ping" your friends today! 
Download Messenger Now





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 07:28:09 -0500
Subject: RE: another bad posting

tom


> [Original Message]
> From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: Len and/or Marge <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; Healeys Mailing List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/8/04 2:04:20 AM
> Subject: RE: another bad posting
>
> If you follow the lead to the part that talks about
> the condition of the vehicle, its says the
> "air-conditioning" system is in excellent shape!
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- Len and/or Marge <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > Engine:  6.0 L (six liter?).  8 - cylinder?.   I
> > don't think so.  Not
> > according to the photo.
> > 
> > (The Other) Len
> > Vacaville, CA
> > 1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> > 
> > 
> > > [Original Message]
> > > From: Jerry Costanzo <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Date: 3/7/2004 9:03:23 PM
> > > Subject: another bad posting
> > >
> > >
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
> > 2
> > > 465392013#mainImage
> > >
> > > This looks liked the same person posting another
> > Healey cheap!





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 07:43:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Hualing advice.

Ask me if I have ever mis-typed a word:)

Cheers
Tom


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Skip Besaw 
To: Bob Brown;tom felts
Cc: Skip Besaw; AHCUSA Mailing List; Healey List
Sent: 3/7/04 8:45:20 PM 
Subject: RE: Hualing advice.


Bob,

Thanks, I put this reply in the "Holy crap I don't type for a living but you 
still know what I meant folder" Anything you care to contribute ith the way of 
something for the "Answer Folder"  

Bob Brown <BlkBT7@aol.com> wrote:
I want to see this BJ6!

tom felts wrote on 3/7/2004, 7:33 PM:

> BJ6's should be driven:):):)
>
>

> >
> > I've decided that I will want to trailer my BJ6 to a few events that
> are





From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 07:43:21 EST
Subject: Re: Hauling advice.

I have an enclosed trailer. It's a 24 ft which gives plenty of room to store 
stuff up front after its loaded. Whether you have an open or an enclosed 
(which for me, serves as storage in the winter) the "beavertail" option on the 
trailer makes it easy to load and unload. 

This drop in the frame minimizes the angle after your front wheel enters the 
trailer from the ramp. I think it's a must for our low clearance cars.

Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI





from the floorboard up to the main harness.  I can see a small hole in the
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 09:49:40 -0500
Subject: Dimmer switch cable routing

Thanks,
Heard Saxon
Enterprise, FL
60 BT7





From Greg Wilkinson <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:55:28 -0500
Subject: RE: another bad posting

Greg
> 
> From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>> 
>
> It has been pulled.
> 
> tom





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 12:26:08 -0500
Subject: RE: another bad posting


> [Original Message]
> From: Greg Wilkinson <gregwilkinson@adelphia.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/8/04 11:00:11 AM
> Subject: RE: another bad posting
>
> Both cars were pulled. The other was a 31 Ford and Brittonfaith is no
longer a registered user. Ouch
>
> Greg
> > 
> > From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>> 
> >
> > It has been pulled.





From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 09:36:13 -0800
Subject: Another barn find

Anybody on the list seen this car?  It is close to Fresno, CA.  Pictures are
not real clear and with the bogus listings showing lately, it bothers me.
Note that this has a 327 engine.  I have an extra healey MK 1 engine that I
can get back into the car.

Jerry





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 12:52:14 -0500
Subject: RE: Another barn find

tom


> [Original Message]
> From: Jerry Costanzo <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/8/04 12:38:22 PM
> Subject: Another barn find
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
2
> 464613233
>
> Anybody on the list seen this car?  It is close to Fresno, CA.  Pictures
are
> not real clear and with the bogus listings showing lately, it bothers me.
> Note that this has a 327 engine.  I have an extra healey MK 1 engine that
I
> can get back into the car.
>
> Jerry





From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 09:41:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Dimmer switch cable routing

John Snyder

> With everyone's help, I now have almost all of the wiring in place.
> However, could someone please describe how the dimmer switch cable is
routed
> from the floorboard up to the main harness.  I can see a small hole in the
> bottom of the ventilation box that looks like it might pass through with a
> grommet, but I don't see any way out of the top of the box up to the main
> harness. Am I on the right track here?
>
> Thanks,
> Heard Saxon
> Enterprise, FL
> 60 BT7





From "Don Anglesey" <Don at anglesey.us>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:14:54 -0800
Subject: RE: Another barn find





From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 13:16:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Another barn find

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

----- Original Message -----
From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
To: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 12:52 PM
Subject: RE: Another barn find


| wouldn't open for me--invalid item.
|
| tom
|
|
| > [Original Message]
| > From: Jerry Costanzo <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
| > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
| > Date: 3/8/04 12:38:22 PM
| > Subject: Another barn find
| >
| >
|
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
| 2
| > 464613233
| >
| > Anybody on the list seen this car?  It is close to Fresno, CA.  Pictures
| are
| > not real clear and with the bogus listings showing lately, it bothers
me.
| > Note that this has a 327 engine.  I have an extra healey MK 1 engine
that
| I
| > can get back into the car.
| >
| > Jerry
|





From tld6008 at mchsi.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 18:23:47 +0000
Subject: RE: Hualing advice.





From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon,  8 Mar 2004 14:57:48 -0600
Subject: Re: Hualing advice.





From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 19:45:55 -0500
Subject: RE: Hauling advice.

I haul my BJ8 in an 8'x18' enclosed car hauler. You could get by with 16'
but it may be difficult to find a manufacturer who
makes one that short. At 18' you still have plenty of room up front for
storage and extras. I have storage boxes for my jack, tire iron,
oil, water, tie down straps, etc and additional space for a Yamaha 50cc Zuma
scooter.

Check out manufacturers like Featherlite, Pace, Haulmark, Cargo Mate and
Express for different models. Most likely all you'll
need is a GVWR of 7,000#. Your Healey with a full tank of gas weighs aprox.
2,550# and the trailer should weigh somewhere about
3,000#. This will give you plenty of leeway for other uses such as
additional gear, toys, a BJ9 in the 3,600# range, etc.

Hope this helps,

Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL





From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 19:56:43 -0500
Subject: Re: HD8 Rebuild

Mark


----- Original Message -----
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 8:10 PM
Subject: HD8 Rebuild


> HI all,
>
> Looking for expereince/recommendation here.  I pressurised my fuel system
> today (after a 3 year rebuild/restore) and got more than my share of carb
> leaks.  Not just floats either so I am headed down the rebuild path.  I
> actually have a rebuild kit I just hadn't gotten to put in (an SU kit from
> Joe Curto).  My throttle shafts seem ok from what I can tell ..  so I
think
> I am just looking at the remaining portion of the rebuild.
>
> Is this at all finicky?  Am I better off sending my carbs to Joe Curto or
is
> this an easy , methodical bench rebuild process?  ...  Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8





From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 21:09:10 -0500
Subject: Re: another bad posting

<Hello and thank you for contacting me

I will tell you a few words about the car.
First of all the car is fully restored and looks just like in the pictures.It 
is in imaculate condition and has no schrach on and hasn't been involved in any 
accident.
The motor runs very well. This is a clasic car that has a lot of the original 
parts and the tires are almost new.The title is clear ,it is not a salvage one. 
The car belongs to my grandfather.He died and left me the car by will.I have 
legal document by wich I can transfer the title to your name.
The car is now in Germany as my grandfather lived there.He loved this kind of 
cars and he collected and restored them.The car is mostly garage kept
Because i can't carry  all his things back home i am selling them.   
I am willing to sell it and shipp it to any of the UE countries or to US.I will 
not ship to any African,Asian or Eastern European countries.I know that the 
price is low but i have no use for the car and I want to get back home as soon 
as i sell it.
I want to sell the car asap so I am willing to pay 25% of the shipping fees 
nomatter of the location.
I require a deposit of 3000USD.The money is a reservation for the car.First one 
who makes the deposit will be the buyer.I need the deposit to be sure that you 
want the car and in order to proceed with shipping and all the aditional export 
taxes.
I wait your further questions and i will provide any infos you need.
Thank you 
Regards


Return-Path: <thomas21234@msn.com>
Received: from  rly-ya01.mx.aol.com (rly-ya01.mail.aol.com [172.18.141.33]) by 
air-ya03.mail.aol.com (v98.10) with ESMTP id MAILINYA34-139404cfd3e99; Mon, 08 
Mar 2004 18:10:07 -0500
Received: from  hotmail.com (bay3-f18.bay3.hotmail.com [65.54.169.18]) by 
rly-ya01.mx.aol.com (v98.5) with ESMTP id MAILRELAYINYA13-139404cfd3e99; Mon, 
08 Mar 2004 18:09:51 -0500
Received: from mail pickup service by hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC;Mon, 8 
Mar 2004 15:09:50 -0800
Received: from 213.23.154.180 by by3fd.bay3.hotmail.msn.com with HTTP;Mon, 08 
Mar 2004 23:09:50 GMT
X-Originating-IP: [213.23.154.180]
X-Originating-Email: [thomas21234@msn.com]
X-Sender: thomas21234@msn.com
From: "Thomas Sorth" <thomas21234@msn.com>
Subject: Healey
Date: 3/8/2004 6:09:50 PM Eastern Standard Time
Mime-Version: 1.0>





From john sawyer <jrsawyer2002 at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 20:00:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: smiths fuel gauge rebuild

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what youre looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com





From Grant2002spamnot at cs.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 23:27:25 EST
Subject: Repair Options for Rear-ended original BT7

Realistically, I can't do a full restoration now, but I want to some day. My 
target would be just preventative maintenance to deal with rust: rust from the 
battery, some rust on the rear portion of the fenders and maybe more rust 
hiding. This is a "while we're in" question. I'm not a panel beater - but I'm 
reasonably mechanically adept. I dislike the bondo/filler results on this and 
another cherished car so wonder if new panels just makes sense for now and for 
the final resto when time permits. 

Sorry for the length- I'm a newbie on this site. Appreciate any helpful 
suggestions for this DIY-type.





From "Adrian Boelen" <boelena at sympatico.ca>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 00:56:26 -0500
Subject: RE: Hauling advice.





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 07:35:20 -0500
Subject: Re: another bad posting

Interesting--I just received notification this morning that i had won over
$2M in some lottery and i must contact the administrator quickly or risk
losing it.  He is in South Africa.  I sent a note telling him that i'll be
happy to participate but must have a $25,000 cash advancement on the money
first.

tom




> [Original Message]
> From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
> To: <grumpyingb@surewest.net ("Jerry Costanzo")>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/8/04 9:14:03 PM
> Subject: Re: another bad posting
>
> I had to write to the seller on this car as I think it is the same group
the caused me some trouble last month. The response has a familar ring to
it.  I copied the message and return email path below.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
> <Hello and thank you for contacting me
>
> I will tell you a few words about the car.
> First of all the car is fully restored and looks just like in the
pictures.It is in imaculate condition and has no schrach on and hasn't been
involved in any accident.
> The motor runs very well. This is a clasic car that has a lot of the
original parts and the tires are almost new.The title is clear ,it is not a
salvage one. 
> The car belongs to my grandfather.He died and left me the car by will.I
have legal document by wich I can transfer the title to your name.
> The car is now in Germany as my grandfather lived there.He loved this
kind of cars and he collected and restored them.The car is mostly garage
kept
> Because i can't carry  all his things back home i am selling them.   
> I am willing to sell it and shipp it to any of the UE countries or to
US.I will not ship to any African,Asian or Eastern European countries.I
know that the price is low but i have no use for the car and I want to get
back home as soon as i sell it.
> I want to sell the car asap so I am willing to pay 25% of the shipping
fees nomatter of the location.
> I require a deposit of 3000USD.The money is a reservation for the
car.First one who makes the deposit will be the buyer.I need the deposit to
be sure that you want the car and in order to proceed with shipping and all
the aditional export taxes.
> I wait your further questions and i will provide any infos you need.
> Thank you 
> Regards
>
>
***





From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 08:30:21 -0500
Subject: Re: another bad posting

Heard Saxon





From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 07:01:15 -0700
Subject: Re: HD8 Rebuild - Thanks

So thanks agin..  Hopefully I may find out the results in the next month..

Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - getting closer...





From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 10:14:01 -0500
Subject: Question about SU carbs 

I am in the process of rebuilding a friend's S.U. H.D. carbs and I want 
to confirm what I believe may have been a problem.  The carbs have 
non-original air cleaners on them, the type that have a chrome backing 
plate and a foam filter.  I noticed when removing the chrome backing 
plates that they didn't quite fit the carbs so the bolt holes that 
normally line up with the bolt holes in the carb were redrilled.  This 
caused the top air holes in the backing plate to be misaligned 
effectively blocking off the top 2 air holes on the carb.

So the question is if the top 2 air holes, which are just above the 
bolt holes on the gasket, were blocked off inadvertently by either the 
wrong gasket or in this case the air cleaner backing plate what would 
be the effect on the running of the car?

Thanks,
Richard





From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 11:14:42 -0500
Subject: Repair Options for Rear-ended original BT7


> Is removing and replacing the rear shroud and fenders on a rear-end
damaged
> original car better for restoration purposes than a panel beater + bondo?
I
> have a tired but very original family BT7 which was rear ended early in
it's
> life. The car was repaired, and then rear ended yet again so we have
cracked bondo
> and some cracks/tears in the aluminum shroud and the trunk floor is not
> right. As a measure of the orginal damage, the car was originally mashed
in to just
> about the depth of the rear (red) reflectors. The petrol tank is intact
but
> Ii've got exterior rust forming. The rear bumper bracket (extensions off
main
> frame) are now bent, but I could probably weld in the replacements myself.
>
> Realistically, I can't do a full restoration now, but I want to some day.
My
> target would be just preventative maintenance to deal with rust: rust from
the
> battery, some rust on the rear portion of the fenders and maybe more rust
> hiding. This is a "while we're in" question. I'm not a panel beater - but
I'm
> reasonably mechanically adept. I dislike the bondo/filler results on this
and
> another cherished car so wonder if new panels just makes sense for now and
for
> the final resto when time permits.
>
> Sorry for the length- I'm a newbie on this site. Appreciate any helpful
> suggestions for this DIY-type.





From "Don Anglesey" <Don at anglesey.us>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 08:57:17 -0800
Subject: RE: Question about SU carbs 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Wegner
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 7:14 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Question about SU carbs 

Hi all,

I am in the process of rebuilding a friend's S.U. H.D. carbs and I want 
to confirm what I believe may have been a problem.  The carbs have 
non-original air cleaners on them, the type that have a chrome backing 
plate and a foam filter.  I noticed when removing the chrome backing 
plates that they didn't quite fit the carbs so the bolt holes that 
normally line up with the bolt holes in the carb were redrilled.  This 
caused the top air holes in the backing plate to be misaligned 
effectively blocking off the top 2 air holes on the carb.

So the question is if the top 2 air holes, which are just above the 
bolt holes on the gasket, were blocked off inadvertently by either the 
wrong gasket or in this case the air cleaner backing plate what would 
be the effect on the running of the car?

Thanks,
Richard





From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 09:15:26 -0800
Subject: Re: smiths fuel gauge rebuild

They have done good work for me.

John Snyder


> The Smiths fuel gauge I have for my BJ8 was in bad shape I've cleaned it
up and it seems to be ok electrically, however,  I have found that the
movement has failed due to rust. Any body know a source for a replacement or
an instrument shop that can make the repair?





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 10:48:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Question about SU carbs

The upper holes are atmospheric vents to the bottom side of the piston. 
If they were blocked it would seriously interfear with the smooth rise & 
fall of the pistons in response to varying load - throttle position. Not 
sure what the actual driving affect would be, but it could be pretty awful.

Dave Russell

Richard Wegner wrote:
> 
> So the question is if the top 2 air holes, which are just above the bolt 
> holes on the gasket, were blocked off inadvertently by either the wrong 
> gasket or in this case the air cleaner backing plate what would be the 
> effect on the running of the car?
> 
> Thanks,
> Richard





From "Adrian Boelen" <boelena at sympatico.ca>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 16:04:04 -0500
Subject: RE: another bad posting


Exact same message I received when i inquired about that Jag I mentioned
earlier.  Lots of scam out there at the moment. 

Interesting--I just received notification this morning that i had won
over $2M in some lottery and i must contact the administrator quickly or
risk losing it.  He is in South Africa.  I sent a note telling him that
i'll be happy to participate but must have a $25,000 cash advancement on
the money first.

tom





From busyrider at springmail.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 17:47:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: another bad posting

I have the best bit of advice for anyone considering buying or selling a car on 
the internet, that is simple and to the point.

If you're stupid and lack intelligence don't buy/sell a car on the web!

Fred Criswell


-----Original Message-----
From: Adrian Boelen <boelena@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Mar 9, 2004 4:04 PM
To: 'tom felts' <tomfelts@earthlink.net>, Healeyguy@aol.com, 
        "'\"JerryCostanzo\"'" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>, 
        healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: another bad posting

Listers,
        Also be wary when SELLING overseas, especially if offered a very
good price.  You are asked to ship to a designated port and pay for half
the cost of overseas transport.  But not to worry you only have to pay
after cashing their certified cheque for payment in full.  
        Sounds safe enough.  Their cheque arrives together with shipping
documents, name of ship etc.  You examine everything.  The cheque looks
genuine. You deposit it, wait a week or so to make sure it doesn't
bounce then send your payment and ship.  
        Only trouble is the routing of their cheque is organized to go
through a complicated series of foreign clearing houses which can take
several weeks.  By the time you get a call from the bank that it has
been returned your cheque or money order is long cashed and your money
long gone.  
        East coast ports regularly get items awaiting transport on ships
which are genuine enough but have never heard of you, your car or the
addressee on the waybill.  Farm equipment is a favorite because their
bulk requires higher 'shipping' costs.  Motorcycles are another
favorite.  The good news is that at least you get to keep the car even
though you'll now have to pay for storage while it was waiting for
'shipment' at the docks and the paperwork is horrendous.  Then of course
you have to get it back home.  
        Many of these scams are solicited in pretty fractured English,
similar to the examples in the posts of previous listers, and involve
shipping addresses along the east coast of Africa.  Lagos Nigeria is
prominent among them.  That should set-off the first alarm bells.
        But this is just an example of one of their minor scams.  There
are others involving 'inheritances' from previously unheard of rich
relatives. (There are cases where they've contacted the same last names
as people who have died in an actual airplane accident.)  All one has to
do is advance payment for a bribe to a minor official in order to
release this fortune and once they have some greedy but gullible
individual on the hook the 'officials' and the bribes get bigger.  Some
people have lost more than a hundred thousand before catching on.  The
yearly take is estimated to be in excess of a billion worldwide.
        Oddly enough, many of these operations are run through the
internet from bucket shops in, of all places, Amsterdam.  The
authorities seem either unable or unwilling to stop it.  They say that
these are white collar crimes that don't involve violence and if you
practice due diligence you won't get taken.  Meanwhile their resources
are better deployed pursuing more evil evil-doers.  Where is inspector
Van der Valk now that he's needed?  I hazard a guess that the scam
artists are smart enough not to target any Dutch victims or they'd be
booted out pretty quickly.  Be diligent.
Adrian Boelen      
BJ8 Montreal


Exact same message I received when i inquired about that Jag I mentioned
earlier.  Lots of scam out there at the moment. 

Interesting--I just received notification this morning that i had won
over $2M in some lottery and i must contact the administrator quickly or
risk losing it.  He is in South Africa.  I sent a note telling him that
i'll be happy to participate but must have a $25,000 cash advancement on
the money first.

tom





From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 17:33:04 -0600
Subject: Web Site Update

Doug Reid (aka Mr. Finespanner) just sent me two more articles,
also I have clarified (somewhat) the brake line link.

I'm just taking a wee brake (no pun) from master bathroom
renovation, artificial marble sure doesn't like a 5 lb hammer.
Margaret opened the window while we were working, wow +6 C,
snow is melting to beat the band,  just can't wait to hear the
exhaust of the BJ8 and Moggie!

Only 12 days to spring and 5 weeks to LBC driving!

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
http://www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4





From "Adrian Boelen" <boelena at sympatico.ca>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 19:13:41 -0500
Subject: RE: another bad posting

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of busyrider@springmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 5:47 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: another bad posting

Amazing, the fascination with this topic.

I have the best bit of advice for anyone considering buying or selling a
car on the internet, that is simple and to the point.

If you're stupid and lack intelligence don't buy/sell a car on the web!

Fred Criswell





From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 20:13:32 -0500
Subject: PAECO





From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 19:28:54 -0800
Subject: Horn install

Kenny

61 BT-7

_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar  get it now! 
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/





From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 22:37:05 -0500
Subject: Jensen Healey

Being here in the rust belt, that would be the major factor.  If it's on 
a car lot, it must be able to pass PA state inspection which requires 
cars to not be real rusty.

Let me know if you are interested and I can check it out.

Charlie
'62 BT7





From <Ian.Harrison at csiro.au>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 14:42:12 +1100
Subject: Steering boxes, donor cars, follow up

a week ago I listed a question regarding the possibility that there were other 
English cars that shared similar worm and peg steering boxes to our Healeys.

The outcome has been inconclusive, there appears to be some difference of 
opinion amongst some of our historians and mechanical experts. 

Some say that there are no direct comparisons or donor cars that have similar 
boxes, and some say there are several equivalents. There is definitely donors 
for all the suspension components, I've just purchased an entire Austin A40 
front end and it looks 100% compatible to a BN4 at this stage

If anybody has additional related info or suspicions please let me know.

"I need a RH drive steering box"

Cheers

Ian, BN4, Aus,





From carlalony2 at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 22:50:02 EST
Subject: Heater duct instlation

                                                         Lony Taylor
                                                         1963 BJ-7

[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 
Classic White.jpg]





From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 23:21:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Horn install

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 10:28 PM
Subject: Horn install


> Can someone confirm the proper placement of the two Healey horns?  Thanks.
>
> Kenny
>
> 61 BT-7





From Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 20:50:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: LA Healey run pictures online

I posted pictures online of the LA area Healey run of
last saturday to Randsburg, an old goldmining town.

You can view the gallery at: 

http://www.pbase.com/pictus/healey_run

Note we lined up the cars in front of an 'Austin'
garage in the middle of the desert!

Thanks to Steve Gerow to take me onboard his 100/6 as
a passenger as my 56 BN2 is 'work in progress'.

This is my first posting on this list which already
provided me with a wealth of information in the
archives.  Thanks, the amount of know-how on this list
is amazing.  I'll update you on the state/progress of
my BN2 project in a next email.


Cheers,


Bert Van Brande
Marina Del Rey, CA
56 BN2 'WIP' 




__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what youre looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 20:52:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Steering boxes, donor cars, follow up

Last I checked the Healey Factory in Melbourne had a
simple LHD to RHD conversion kit for the healey.  It
consists of a worm gear and a repro box assembly...
costs something like AUD 400 and simply needed some
heat and then pounded on your current LHD column.

Hope that helps,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- Ian.Harrison@csiro.au wrote:
> Hi all, 
> 
> a week ago I listed a question regarding the
> possibility that there were other English cars that
> shared similar worm and peg steering boxes to our
> Healeys.
> 
> The outcome has been inconclusive, there appears to
> be some difference of opinion amongst some of our
> historians and mechanical experts. 
> 
> Some say that there are no direct comparisons or
> donor cars that have similar boxes, and some say
> there are several equivalents. There is definitely
> donors for all the suspension components, I've just
> purchased an entire Austin A40 front end and it
> looks 100% compatible to a BN4 at this stage
> 
> If anybody has additional related info or suspicions
> please let me know.
> 
> "I need a RH drive steering box"
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Ian, BN4, Aus,





From "Ron Fine Esq." <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 23:00:33 -0800
Subject: Rocker Shaft bushings





From Grant2002spamnot at cs.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 02:13:48 EST
Subject: Intermin Follow up, wrt Repair Options for Rear-ended original

Wow, this e-mail list group is great. Wonderful, helpful responses. More than 
I had hoped for. I now have some practical wisdom to make a more careful 
inspection, and think through my repair options. This is just an interim reply  
to 
your helpful comments.

1. Original Damage
The car was read ended by a much larger ~late 60's American car with a bumper 
height about matching the area above the fuel tank and below the rear 
reflectors (on the fenders). The incoming bumper mangled the rear bumper and 
then 
mashed the rear of the car ~4 to 6" inwards. Although,the fuel tank has only 
small dent facing to the rear, the bottom edge of the boot lid and the mating 
shroud lip were completely mangled. As I remember, the reflecters on the 
fenders 
were cock-eyed. The car was repaired with reasonable talent in the reflectors 
and fenders area -- the significant bondo is on the trailing wall of the boot.  

2. Current condition.
The second accident cracked  bondo around the bumper supports. The channel 
into which the boot lid fits is cracked on the driver's side lower lip. I can 
see a plate rivetted across the backside (inside) of the channel to hold this 
cracked area of the shroud together.

3. My Reason for considering repair.
Independent of the accident damage, there is battery acid damage to panels in 
the boot area. The main frame rails and the cross member are intact. The rear 
bumper brackets (rearmost structural parts welded to the frame) are mangled 
from bending, rough straightening on the car, then bending again from the 
second accident. These bumper brackets and the rear (frame) crossmember have 
surface rust forming. 

My biggest concern is controlling this rust before it gets out of hand. I was 
thinking of removing the frame rust and overcoating with POR15 or a Naval 
high zinc content paint. A secondary task would be to replace panels on 
reassembly.

4. Conclusions based upon wisdom provided
Now I understand that the shroud and fenders, new, used or repaired are 
likely to require some significant hand fitting. What I don't know is whether 
the 
original body man knew enough to maintain galvanic isolation between the 
fenders and the shroud. Time for some more careful inspections. Will report 
back on 
findings.


Pure luck.
At the hazard of going off topic, I feel compelled to tell the story of a 
most fortunate aspect of the original accident. Originally, this car had a rack 
with all four feet on the boot lid. Great (strong) rack. My father just 
happened to be carrying a 3'x 5' glass table top strapped to the top of the 
rear deck 
and the rack -- when he was rear ended while stopped at a traffic light. The 
plate shattered with large glass shards driven into and past the cockpit and 
out into the intersection. Somehow, none of large pieces caught my father's 
head and neck. 

Thanks all,
Grant





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 01:06:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Rocker Shaft bushings

Dave

Ron Fine Esq. wrote:
> Dave Russell,  are you there.  I was searching the archives and found In
> February you answered a question regarding rocker bushings.  You said the
> grove inside the bushing should not extend to the top rocker hole.  I recently
> bought some new bushings with the thought that I might try to rebuilt my
> rocker arm.  The grove inside is approximately 300 degrees around the inside
> of the bushing.  If you drilled out the two holes you would get one hole at
> one end of the grove and the top hole at the other end of the grove.  This
> seems contrary to your posting.  I looked at my old bushing (still in place)
> and the grove is much shorter.  Only the hole to the push rod or adjusting
> screw is at the end of the grove.  The other end of the grove stops well short
> of the hole to the top of the rocker.  It looks like I got the wrong bushings.
> Do you concur?
> Ron Fine





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 01:09:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: EBAY Scammers and Thieves BEWARE!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=7251&item=2464490255

Definitely is a trippy looking car!

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8





From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 06:44:48 EST
Subject: doug reid

thanks
mitch 1963 bj7





From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 23:03:41 +1100
Subject: Re: Steering boxes, donor cars, follow up

Sorry I didn't respond before - I've been incredibliy busy with some work
deadlines.

The 'equivelent' Austin sedans (A70 - A90 - A95- 6/110 etc) have
'equivelent' front ends (wasn't an A40 a 1200cc non A series 4 cylinder
throwback to pre wwII Austins?) - in appearance. Shocks etc 'look' the
same - but shock arms are often a different length etc.

Steering boxes are interesting - and there is a potential opportunity for we
of the Right hand driver persuasion to do a deal with our LHD American
friends...

The sedan steering boxes have the arm at the 'back' of the steering box-
Healeys have it at the front. If you put the sedan steering box, from a RHD
sedan, in your RHD Healey, and put the arm at the front - then when you turn
the wheel left - the car will turn right - ie the worm is the wrong way.

Have a close look at where the steering arm comes off the steering box on
the A40 Ian.....

HOWEVER - I remember that there is someway that you can use a left hand
drive sedan steering box (or parts thereof?), in a right hand drive Healey -
and it works - and vice-a-versa (right hand drive sedan steering box parts
in a LHD healey).

Ian - ring Robbie Rowlands and see if I'm correct (I was going to say
'right' but I thought that would confuse people...) - because I suspect you
may be able to swap your RHD sedan steering box for a LHD sedan stering box
and end up with 2 happy Healey owners....

Best

Chris

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Ian.Harrison@csiro.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 2:42 PM
Subject: Steering boxes, donor cars, follow up


> Hi all,
>
> a week ago I listed a question regarding the possibility that there were
other English cars that shared similar worm and peg steering boxes to our
Healeys.
>
> The outcome has been inconclusive, there appears to be some difference of
opinion amongst some of our historians and mechanical experts.
>
> Some say that there are no direct comparisons or donor cars that have
similar boxes, and some say there are several equivalents. There is
definitely donors for all the suspension components, I've just purchased an
entire Austin A40 front end and it looks 100% compatible to a BN4 at this
stage
>
> If anybody has additional related info or suspicions please let me know.
>
> "I need a RH drive steering box"
>
> Cheers
>
> Ian, BN4, Aus,





From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 06:10:29 -0600
Subject: Re: doug reid





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 07:44:00 -0500
Subject: RE: another bad posting

Isn't it implied that if you'r stupid you DO lack intelligence?:):)




> [Original Message]
> From: Adrian Boelen <boelena@sympatico.ca>
> To: <busyrider@springmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/9/04 7:18:36 PM
> Subject: RE: another bad posting
>
> Fred,
>       To the point maybe but not simple.  Could someone opt for one or
> the other?  No Healey owner could possibly be both.
> Adrian Boelen 
> BJ8 Montreal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of busyrider@springmail.com
> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 5:47 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: another bad posting
>
> Amazing, the fascination with this topic.
>
> I have the best bit of advice for anyone considering buying or selling a
> car on the internet, that is simple and to the point.
>
> If you're stupid and lack intelligence don't buy/sell a car on the web!
>
> Fred Criswell





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 07:55:46 -0500
Subject: RE: Heater duct instlation

tom


> [Original Message]
> From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
> To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/9/04 10:55:10 PM
> Subject: Heater duct instlation
>
> Does anyone know the BEST way to install the black air ducts without
tearing 
> them up and the car in the process. Very frustrated with this. Thanks for
any 
> advise. 
>
>                                                          Lony Taylor
>                                                          1963 BJ-7





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 08:04:06 -0500
Subject: RE: LA Healey run pictures online

Tom


> [Original Message]
> From: Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/9/04 11:55:24 PM
> Subject: LA Healey run pictures online
>
> Hi,
>
> I posted pictures online of the LA area Healey run of
> last saturday to Randsburg, an old goldmining town.
>
> You can view the gallery at: 
>
> http://www.pbase.com/pictus/healey_run
>
> Note we lined up the cars in front of an 'Austin'
> garage in the middle of the desert!
>
> Thanks to Steve Gerow to take me onboard his 100/6 as
> a passenger as my 56 BN2 is 'work in progress'.
>
> This is my first posting on this list which already
> provided me with a wealth of information in the
> archives.  Thanks, the amount of know-how on this list
> is amazing.  I'll update you on the state/progress of
> my BN2 project in a next email.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> Bert Van Brande
> Marina Del Rey, CA
> 56 BN2 'WIP' 
>
>
>
>
> _





From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 05:06:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: another bad posting

-----Original Message-----
From: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
Sent: Mar 10, 2004 4:44 AM
To: Adrian Boelen <boelena@sympatico.ca>, busyrider@springmail.com, 
        healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: another bad posting

Fred says--"If you're stupid and lack intelligence don't buy/sell a car on
the web!"

Isn't it implied that if you'r stupid you DO lack intelligence?:):)




Auburn Design Group:
The source for vehicle graphics
OEM approved
SEMA PRO





From tld6008 at mchsi.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 13:37:41 +0000
Subject: Re: LA Healey run pictures online

--
Tim Davis BN7
> Hi,
> 
> I posted pictures online of the LA area Healey run of
> last saturday to Randsburg, an old goldmining town.
> 
> You can view the gallery at: 
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/pictus/healey_run
> 
> Note we lined up the cars in front of an 'Austin'
> garage in the middle of the desert!
> 
> Thanks to Steve Gerow to take me onboard his 100/6 as
> a passenger as my 56 BN2 is 'work in progress'.
> 
> This is my first posting on this list which already
> provided me with a wealth of information in the
> archives.  Thanks, the amount of know-how on this list
> is amazing.  I'll update you on the state/progress of
> my BN2 project in a next email.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Bert Van Brande
> Marina Del Rey, CA
> 56 BN2 'WIP' 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what youre looking for faster
> http://search.yahoo.com





From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 05:33:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Heater duct instlation

This is right up there with one of the jobs from *(&%*&!    I do not 
envy you as I did this job my self. with engine insitu.

First of all patience and firm gentleness is key, as with a lady :-).   
I destroyed one of the three doing mine and had to replace it
and start over.  I simply crushed it in my hands collapsing the wall 
which of course splits it instantly.  In terms of
difficulty the front passanger side was toughest followed by the drivers 
side and finally the rear passenger side.

I pre- stretched each hose just before fitting, but not too much as they 
seemed to go in better by starting short and then lengthening.
Only one hint is to remove the heaterbox enough to put the clamps on the 
two hoses and have the smiths box loose (unmounted). 
You may want to wrap it in a towel to keep from scratching paint.  Then 
pull the hose (gently!) to stretch it to fit to the cockpit
and clamp that off.  Next do the front hose again stretching it and 
feeding it  (awkward angle) into the  hole on the front of the
inner hood hinge brace assembly.  Now you can replace the 4 bolts 
holding the smiths heater box.  So now you have heat. 

Next the fresh air hose on the drivers side.  Again slghtly pre-stretch 
and snake the hose in.  Clamp to the cockpit side.  Gently stretch to the
front and feed into the hole.

This was an all day job for me and required control of the force I 
exerted when stretching and coaxing these fragile hoses.  There may be 
parts you can move or remove to get better access.

Good luck and just take your time.  You'll eventually get these in.

Tracy

carlalony2@aol.com wrote:

>Does anyone know the BEST way to install the black air ducts without tearing 
>them up and the car in the process. Very frustrated with this. Thanks for any 
>advise. 
>
>                                                         Lony Taylor
>                                                         1963 BJ-7





From Greg Wilkinson <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 9:47:56 -0500
Subject: Re: EBAY Scammers and Thieves BEWARE!





From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 09:55:59 EST
Subject: Re: Heater duct instlation

I don't think it is possible.

Larry Wysocki





From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 08:08:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: LA Healey run pictures online

Great shots - Looks like photo contest winning
material to me.  

Sorry I could not make it.  See you all in Ventura!

Dean BN7


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what youre looking for faster
http://search.yahoo.com





From "Adrian Boelen" <boelena at sympatico.ca>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 11:48:53 -0500
Subject: RE: LA Healey run pictures online


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bert Van Brande
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 11:51 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: LA Healey run pictures online

Hi,

I posted pictures online of the LA area Healey run of
last saturday to Randsburg, an old goldmining town.

You can view the gallery at: 

http://www.pbase.com/pictus/healey_run

Note we lined up the cars in front of an 'Austin'
garage in the middle of the desert!

Thanks to Steve Gerow to take me onboard his 100/6 as
a passenger as my 56 BN2 is 'work in progress'.

This is my first posting on this list which already
provided me with a wealth of information in the
archives.  Thanks, the amount of know-how on this list
is amazing.  I'll update you on the state/progress of
my BN2 project in a next email.


Cheers,


Bert Van Brande
Marina Del Rey, CA
56 BN2 'WIP' 





From Mike <mikebn2 at win.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 12:01:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Heater duct instlation

Just kidding,


maybe.

Mike Schneider
Bluegrass AHCA




At 10:50 PM 3/9/2004, carlalony2@aol.com wrote:

>Does anyone know the BEST way to install the black air ducts without tearing
>them up and the car in the process. Very frustrated with this. Thanks for any
>advise.
>
>                                                          Lony Taylor
>                                                          1963 BJ-7



Mike Schneider
Your Grandfather's Workshop
Clock manufacture and repair
502-893-1719
mikebn2@win.net
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.592 / Virus Database: 375 - Release Date: 2/18/2004





From "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 12:11:50 -0600
Subject: magazine?





From "Ron Fine Esq." <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 10:16:38 -0800
Subject: Rocker Shaft Bushings





From "J. Urban." <jurban at caverge.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 13:28:29 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Healey Pics on AHSTC site - an update!

Event pictures are posted in http://www.austin-healey-stc.org/gallery.htm.

The Encounter 2004 info is also added to the site.

Enjoy!
Jason Urban.
'59 BN4.
'65 Sprite.





From <bighealey at charter.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 18:58:28 +0000
Subject: Which rear crankshaft seal square or round?

I'll be pulling my tranny in the coming days (well maybe weeks) and I plan to 
add a rear seal.  I see that there are two types out there, square and round.  
Seems like the square one will make the cutting of the rear engine plate easier 
(drill two holes and cut the rest). I believe Moss sells the round ones and 
Dennis Welsh sells the square ones.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.  Keep in mind I'll be doing this 
myself with hand tools and if the round seal requires a round cut on the rear 
plate then mine might come out a bit sloppy.

Thanks in Advance, let the sparks fly..........

Tracy





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 16:15:58 -0500
Subject: RE: Which rear crankshaft seal square or round?

tom


> [Original Message]
> From: <bighealey@charter.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/10/04 2:04:09 PM
> Subject: Which rear crankshaft seal square or round?
>
> Oh wise and knowledgable ones,  (heheheheh, except Dave)
>
> I'll be pulling my tranny in the coming days (well maybe weeks) and I
plan to add a rear seal.  I see that there are two types out there, square
and round.  Seems like the square one will make the cutting of the rear
engine plate easier (drill two holes and cut the rest). I believe Moss
sells the round ones and Dennis Welsh sells the square ones.
>
> Any recommendations would be appreciated.  Keep in mind I'll be doing
this myself with hand tools and if the round seal requires a round cut on
the rear plate then mine might come out a bit sloppy.
>
> Thanks in Advance, let the sparks fly..........





From tld6008 at mchsi.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:57:25 +0000
Subject: Re: Healey Pics on AHSTC site - an update!

--
Tim Davis BN7
> And, speaking of Healey pictures, there has been a recent update to the
> AHSTC website at http://www.austin-healey-stc.org.
> 
> Event pictures are posted in http://www.austin-healey-stc.org/gallery.htm.
> 
> The Encounter 2004 info is also added to the site.
> 
> Enjoy!
> Jason Urban.
> '59 BN4.
> '65 Sprite.





From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 19:18:27 +0000
Subject: Re: Steering boxes, donor cars, follow up

Assuming that we are definitely talking about Burman steering boxes 
there are to the best of my knowledge no other uses of the A-H 100 early 
steering box. There may be those with similar external dimensions but it 
is highly likely that these will have a reverse action to that expected. 
That is if fitted to a 100 you turn the wheel right and the car turns 
left. The reason is that that side links on saloons connect to arms 
facing to the rear of the car. On the 100 they are on arms facing 
forward.

All the best
>
>a week ago I listed a question regarding the possibility that there 
>were other English cars that shared similar worm and peg steering boxes 
>to our Healeys.
>
>The outcome has been inconclusive, there appears to be some difference 
>of opinion amongst some of our historians and mechanical experts.
>
>Some say that there are no direct comparisons or donor cars that have 
>similar boxes, and some say there are several equivalents. There is 
>definitely donors for all the suspension components, I've just 
>purchased an entire Austin A40 front end and it looks 100% compatible 
>to a BN4 at this stage
>
>If anybody has additional related info or suspicions please let me know.
>
>"I need a RH drive steering box"
>
>Cheers
>
>Ian, BN4, Aus,
>

-- 
John Harper





From Greg Wilkinson <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 18:02:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Which rear crankshaft seal square or round?

Small spark,
Greg
67 BJ8
> 
> From: <bighealey@charter.net>
> Date: 2004/03/10 Wed PM 01:58:28 EST
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Which rear crankshaft seal square or round?
> 
> Oh wise and knowledgable ones,  (heheheheh, except Dave)
> 
> I'll be pulling my tranny in the coming days (well maybe weeks) and I plan to 
>add a rear seal.  I see that there are two types out there, square and round.  
>Seems like the square one will make the cutting of the rear engine plate 
>easier (drill two holes and cut the rest). I believe Moss sells the round ones 
>and Dennis Welsh sells the square ones.
> 
> Any recommendations would be appreciated.  Keep in mind I'll be doing this 
>myself with hand tools and if the round seal requires a round cut on the rear 
>plate then mine might come out a bit sloppy.
> 
> Thanks in Advance, let the sparks fly..........
> 
> Tracy





From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 17:21:23 -0600
Subject: Re: magazine?





From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 18:39:51 -0500
Subject: Tonneau question

My BT7's old tonneau (looks original) is missing these parts (as well as the
cross member), and I'm wondering if it might be worthwhile bidding on this
set to install. One end in the ePay photo looks like the battens on my
sailboat, but I'm puzzled by what look like holes on the other end. Can
anyone tell me how these fittings fit? Do they simply slide into the pockets
on the tonneau?

Thanks!

 ==  Alex in Maine
     1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
     Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
     Amateur Radio AI2Q
     http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm

      .-.-.





From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 19:23:21 EST
Subject: Re: Tonneau question

<< 2464724257 >>

They are not holes - they are little turn-buttons, similar to the end 
fittings for the top (hood) on the fenders next to the doors. As I recall there 
was a 
flap on the underside of the factory tonneau cover which "captured" the 
support rail. This flap had oval slotted fittings (with which the buttons 
engage) 
crimped into it.

Dick Hosmer





From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 19:58:08 EST
Subject: Healey sighting

Great being back in the saddle.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans (now in Danville, VA)





From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 20:06:03 EST
Subject: Capital Classic 2004

Alternatively, I have a flyer on the event with complete details and a 
registration form that I will be happy to send to anyone interested--just 
contact me 
offlist requesting same.

Best--Michael Oritt
Capital Area AHC Newsletter Editor





From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 20:05:28 -0500
Subject: Re:100/4 Side Curtains

Regards,

Doug

________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!





From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 20:14:56 EST
Subject: Re: 100/4 Side Curtains

> Some year back one of the larger suppliers offered aluminum framed,
> sliding window versions of side curtains for the 100/4. Has anyone seen 
> these around? 

Doug--

My car came to me with a set of them and they are what I (rarely) use, as 
opposed to the "correct" ones, which make me feel like I am riding in a 
submarine.  Due to the trapezoidal shape of the opening they are a bit unusual 
in 
appearance but I can actually get some air in the car with them in place.  

Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans





From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at comcast.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 17:17:42 -0800
Subject: RE: Heater duct instlation

Esko
BJ7

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tracy Drummond
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 5:33 AM
To: carlalony2@aol.com; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Heater duct instlation

Lony,

This is right up there with one of the jobs from *(&%*&!    I do not 
envy you as I did this job my self. with engine insitu.

First of all patience and firm gentleness is key, as with a lady :-).   
I destroyed one of the three doing mine and had to replace it
and start over.  I simply crushed it in my hands collapsing the wall 
which of course splits it instantly.  In terms of
difficulty the front passanger side was toughest followed by the drivers 
side and finally the rear passenger side.

I pre- stretched each hose just before fitting, but not too much as they 
seemed to go in better by starting short and then lengthening.
Only one hint is to remove the heaterbox enough to put the clamps on the 
two hoses and have the smiths box loose (unmounted). 
You may want to wrap it in a towel to keep from scratching paint.  Then 
pull the hose (gently!) to stretch it to fit to the cockpit
and clamp that off.  Next do the front hose again stretching it and 
feeding it  (awkward angle) into the  hole on the front of the
inner hood hinge brace assembly.  Now you can replace the 4 bolts 
holding the smiths heater box.  So now you have heat. 

Next the fresh air hose on the drivers side.  Again slghtly pre-stretch 
and snake the hose in.  Clamp to the cockpit side.  Gently stretch to the
front and feed into the hole.

This was an all day job for me and required control of the force I 
exerted when stretching and coaxing these fragile hoses.  There may be 
parts you can move or remove to get better access.

Good luck and just take your time.  You'll eventually get these in.

Tracy

carlalony2@aol.com wrote:

>Does anyone know the BEST way to install the black air ducts without
tearing 
>them up and the car in the process. Very frustrated with this. Thanks for
any 
>advise. 
>
>                                                         Lony Taylor
>                                                         1963 BJ-7





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 17:40:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Which rear crankshaft seal square or round?

I have the round one waiting for installation.  If I
can make any suggestion, both Dennis Welch (square)
and Cape International (round) also sell billet
aluminum engine back plates which accomodate this seal
- they're pretty cheap at around $160 , all things
considered, so if you want it all to be bolt up no
hassle... I'd get the ali backplate.  Shaves another
10 pounds off the weight of the engine in the process
(and about 5 hours of hassle + machine shop cost).

I know the Cape-International back plate accomodates
BOTH the round and square back seal... so maybe if you
don't know which way you are going you can still order
that backplate.

You should consider bill bolton's lightened flywheel
while you are at it.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- bighealey@charter.net wrote:
> Oh wise and knowledgable ones,  (heheheheh, except
> Dave)
> 
> I'll be pulling my tranny in the coming days (well
> maybe weeks) and I plan to add a rear seal.  I see
> that there are two types out there, square and
> round.  Seems like the square one will make the
> cutting of the rear engine plate easier (drill two
> holes and cut the rest). I believe Moss sells the
> round ones and Dennis Welsh sells the square ones.
> 
> Any recommendations would be appreciated.  Keep in
> mind I'll be doing this myself with hand tools and
> if the round seal requires a round cut on the rear
> plate then mine might come out a bit sloppy.
> 
> Thanks in Advance, let the sparks fly..........
> 
> Tracy





From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 19:51:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Which rear crankshaft seal square or round?

<<You should consider bill bolton's lightened flywheel
while you are at it.>>

is an UNDERSTATEMENT, Alan!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rick
(for Ed)





From WilKo at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:00:52 EST
Subject: Re: Which rear crankshaft seal square or round?

Not yet installed.

Rick
San Diego

In a message dated 3/10/04 5:42:51 PM, international_investor@yahoo.com 
writes:


> I know the Cape-International back plate accomodates
> BOTH the round and square back seal... so maybe if you
> don't know which way you are going you can still order
> that backplate.
> 
> You should consider bill bolton's lightened flywheel
> while you are at it.





From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:05:29 -0500
Subject: Fast blinking turn signal

Thanks,

Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4





From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:40:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey sighting


Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

----- Original Message -----
  From: Awgertoo@aol.com
  To: healeys@autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 7:58 PM
  Subject: Healey sighting


  I saw a lot of Steve Byer's BJ8 today:  He picked me up this morning in New
  Bern, NC and we drove, mostly with top down, to Fort Mill, SC where I
collected
  my 100 from Von Patterson's shop.  From there I followed Steve up to
  Greensboro, NC where we stopped in on Allen and Jerry at Hendrix' wire
Wheels and got
  a good cup of coffee.  Steve then headed for home in (where the hell is)
  Havelock, NC and I turned north for a few days' drive back to Maryland via
the Blue
  Ridge Parkway and Skyline Drive.

  Great being back in the saddle.
  Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans (now in Danville, VA)





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 19:27:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Fast blinking turn signal

Probably because you have electrical resistance
somewhere in the system.  Likely culprits include the
flasher relay (i.e. corroded contacts), corroded
electrical connections between the flasher, flasher
relay, and rear or front lights, and possibly corroded
wiring (if a cheap wiring harness).

You can get around this buy purchasing an aftermarket
solid state flasher... then line resistance won't vary
the flasher rate.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- Mick VanderPloeg <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> The good news is that I got my turn signals working
> this past weekend.  The
> bad news is that the left turn signal blinks very
> rapidly (maybe five times
> per second), and the right seems to operate
> normally.  Why would one side
> blink at a different rate than the other?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4





From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?=  <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 22:50:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Pics on AHSTC site - an update!


Giulietta Sprint 60-6? with fender flares and mags. Cool car.

        Alain Giguere
        BN7 Bits
--
Tim Davis BN7
>  And, speaking of Healey pictures, there has been a recent update to the
>  AHSTC website at http://www.austin-healey-stc.org.
>
>  Event pictures are posted in http://www.austin-healey-stc.org/gallery.htm.
>
>  The Encounter 2004 info is also added to the site.
>
>  Enjoy!
>  Jason Urban.
>  '59 BN4.
>  '65 Sprite.
-- 





From "Tim Newton" <timnewton at menziesgroup.com.au>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 15:38:42 +1100
Subject: cold engine starts 100/6

Tim Newton
Australia





From "John Rued" <rudedoggg at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 23:05:49 -0600
Subject: Kilmartin Status

Do any of the Australian listers know the current status of Kilmartin?  Are
they all on holiday?

JR
53 BN-1





From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:37:19 -0800
Subject: RE: Event schedule

Also, I tried to 'reply' to your message about 55 registrations and 22 saying 
they were going to rallye (it bounced as undeliverable).  That's about on 
schedule as compared to 2002.    48% said on their registration forms that they 
wanted to participate .  16% actually did.

Len

----- Original Message ----- 
From: John Trifari 
To: committee@goldengatehealeys.com
Sent: 3/10/2004 11:25:14 AM 
Subject: Event schedule


Can I get an updated event schedule?

I have the following

Reception/registration             Wed   June 2
Autocross                                Sat    June 5
Car Show
Rallye
Awards Dinner                          Sat   June 5
Dinner on the Lake
Funkhana    (if run)                   Sat    June 5
Concours (if run)
Other??

thanks   John





From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:47:28 -0800
Subject: Event Schedule


(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031





From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:58:07 -0800
Subject: Re: cold engine starts 100/6


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim Newton" <timnewton@menziesgroup.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 8:38 PM
Subject: cold engine starts 100/6


> Dear all
> my 100/6 (6 gallery inlet manifold) is really hard work to start when
cold.
> Ambient temp is not the issue. When running it behaves perfectly. Ignition
> system 100% renewed. Fuel system checks out fine, and SU's balanced and
tuned
> slightly to rich mixture. Cold start levers and jets appear operating
> correctly. When started and warming, pulling the choke out does increase
> engine revs which indicates operation of the choke appears normal. Prefers
> almost no choke to start which is why it is hard to fire. Starter turns
well,
> so low revolutions is not the issue.
> The only thing that I think may be an issue is the ignition advance
setting.
> The work shop manual suggests 6 degrees BTDC as a normal setting. I am
told
> this is about 10 mm or half inch advance on  the timing mark. Although
when
> driving, the engine seems to like this setting, does the degree of advance
> setting effect the cold start, and if so what is the compromise between
> ignition timing to ensure an easier start and best performance when at
normal
> temp?????
>
> Tim Newton
> Australia





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 22:08:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Kilmartin Status

I've only ever had luck contacting Kilmartin by
telephone during work hours and talking to someone
directly.  I don't think they check their email, and
they probably ignore your fax unless they know who it
is from.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- John Rued <rudedoggg@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I've been trying to get in touch with the Kilmartin
> folks (via e-mail) with
> not much luck.  Today, I attempted a fax but the fax
> rang busy all afternoon.
> 
> Do any of the Australian listers know the current
> status of Kilmartin?  Are
> they all on holiday?
> 
> JR
> 53 BN-1





From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 09:07:11 -0500
Subject: BN1 diff gears

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com





From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 10:08:36 -0600
Subject: RE: Which rear crankshaft seal square or round? AND ALUMINUM


-----Original Message-----
From: Blue One Hundred [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 7:41 PM
To: bighealey@charter.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Which rear crankshaft seal square or round?

Tracey -

I have the round one waiting for installation.  If I
can make any suggestion, both Dennis Welch (square)
and Cape International (round) also sell billet
aluminum engine back plates which accomodate this seal
- they're pretty cheap at around $160 , all things
considered, so if you want it all to be bolt up no
hassle... I'd get the ali backplate.  Shaves another
10 pounds off the weight of the engine in the process
(and about 5 hours of hassle + machine shop cost).

I know the Cape-International back plate accomodates
BOTH the round and square back seal... so maybe if you
don't know which way you are going you can still order
that backplate.

You should consider bill bolton's lightened flywheel
while you are at it.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- bighealey@charter.net wrote:
> Oh wise and knowledgable ones,  (heheheheh, except
> Dave)
> 
> I'll be pulling my tranny in the coming days (well
> maybe weeks) and I plan to add a rear seal.  I see
> that there are two types out there, square and
> round.  Seems like the square one will make the
> cutting of the rear engine plate easier (drill two
> holes and cut the rest). I believe Moss sells the
> round ones and Dennis Welsh sells the square ones.
> 
> Any recommendations would be appreciated.  Keep in
> mind I'll be doing this myself with hand tools and
> if the round seal requires a round cut on the rear
> plate then mine might come out a bit sloppy.
> 
> Thanks in Advance, let the sparks fly..........
> 
> Tracy





From John Kuzman <jjkbj7 at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 08:25:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Rear Susp. U-Bolt


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what youre looking for faster.





from mid way point to top another section with the mid way point forming a
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 10:40:53 -0600
Subject: rear cockpit  panel

    Thanks Robert





From daddio38 at charter.net
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 10:50:14 -0600
Subject: Magnet mount third brake light

Thanks
JP
65 BJ8





From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 11:51:25 EST
Subject: Re: Which rear crankshaft seal square or round?


Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.





From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 12:25:44 EST
Subject: Re: Kilmartin Status





From "Ron Fine Esq." <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 09:32:52 -0800
Subject: Engine Rebuild





From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 12:43:43 -0500
Subject: RE: Rear Susp. U-Bolt

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Kuzman
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 11:26 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Rear Susp. U-Bolt

Greetings!
I need to chase the threads on the U-bolts for mounting the rear
suspension leaf springs. Does anyone know the size-thread type? Thanks
in advance.
John - BJ7


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what youre looking for faster.





From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 10:16:19 -0800
Subject: RE: Rear Susp. U-Bolt

-----Original Message-----
From: John Kuzman [mailto:jjkbj7@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 8:26 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Rear Susp. U-Bolt


Greetings!
I need to chase the threads on the U-bolts for mounting the rear suspension
leaf springs. Does anyone know the size-thread type? Thanks in advance.
John - BJ7





From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 07:50:09 +1100
Subject: Kilmartin





From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 13:31:31 -0800
Subject: Re: rear cockpit  panel

-- 
David Nock
               NEW  E-mail Addresses!!!

 David Nock, Technical Questions   healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions    britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net

British Car Specialists  2060 N. Wilson Way   Stockton  CA  95205
 Phone 209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030

http://www.britishcarspecialists.com

 
on 3/11/04 8:40 AM, Robert Barback at tippytoo@eatel.net wrote:

> I have been looking for the rear sheet-metal bulkhead , that holds the rear
> seat panel and forms the trunk / boot wall and rear of the cockpit . This is
> for a BJ7 .  I have looked in Moss , VB , etc. and do not see this part
> listed . I think it may be in two sections from frame mid way up and then
> from mid way point to top another section with the mid way point forming a
> ledge to attach the rear seat panel to.
> 
> Thanks Robert





From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 15:52:15 -0600
Subject: Aluminum Rear Engine Plate

Jack





From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 16:57:12 EST
Subject: Virus reminder





From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 22:26:00 -0000
Subject: Re: Virus reminder

Kindest regards

Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk

Now offering quality Sealey tools at discount prices, see
www.ccw-tools.co.uk for further details.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 9:57 PM
Subject: Virus reminder


> I've had a message from a friend saying to delete
> windows\system32\jdbgmgr.exe (the one with a "teddy bear" beside it).
> Can someone remind me...is this a good file and the letter a well meaning
> chain hoax or should I zap the file per advice. I know there are as many
hoax
> advice mails as there are viruses these days.
> Thanks,
> Simon.





From "bob dyar" <bobdyar at cox.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 14:34:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Virus reminder





From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 17:45:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Virus reminder

Replying to the list in hopes that it might prevent others from falling prey 
to this hoax: 

http://www.snopes.com/computer/virus/jdbgmgr.htm

-- 
John Miller

Content:  80% POLYESTER, 20% DACRONi ... The waitress's UNIFORM sheds TARTAR 
SAUCE like an 8" by 10" GLOSSY ...





From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 09:48:19 +1100
Subject: RE: Kilmartin Status

Don't you  blokes know that it's a permanent holiday in Australia.

It's the land of the big party.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney (sin city) Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeyguy@aol.com [mailto:Healeyguy@aol.com] 
Sent: Friday, 12 March 2004 4:26 AM
To: rudedoggg@earthlink.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Kilmartin Status


Have you been using this address: kilmartinj@primus.com.au  ? This is
the only method I use for contact with them for info or purchases. 
Not sure of any holidays this time of year down under.
Aloha
Perry
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 15:48:44 -0700
Subject: Re: rear cockpit  panel

This part is made by Kilmartin Sheetmetal, AU. There may be several US 
distributors. One of them is British Car Specialists in Stockton, CA - 
209-948-8767. It is listed as part #AH259 - "Inner Rear Vertical Trunk 
Panel". There is also, #AH297 - "Rear Seat Repair Section", for the seat 
pan.

Dave Russell
BN2

Robert Barback wrote:
> I have been looking for the rear sheet-metal bulkhead , that holds the rear
> seat panel and forms the trunk / boot wall and rear of the cockpit . This is
> for a BJ7 .  I have looked in Moss , VB , etc. and do not see this part
> listed . I think it may be in two sections from frame mid way up and then
> from mid way point to top another section with the mid way point forming a
> ledge to attach the rear seat panel to.
> 
>     Thanks Robert





From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 17:49:22 EST
Subject: Virus..thanks





From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 17:51:09 EST
Subject: Re: Kilmartin Status





From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 17:54:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Virus reminder

You should always check this things out by going to www.snopes.com which is
a clearing house for hoaxes and urban legends. This particular one has been
going around for years.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

----- Original Message -----
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 4:57 PM
Subject: Virus reminder


| I've had a message from a friend saying to delete
| windows\system32\jdbgmgr.exe (the one with a "teddy bear" beside it).
| Can someone remind me...is this a good file and the letter a well meaning
| chain hoax or should I zap the file per advice. I know there are as many
hoax
| advice mails as there are viruses these days.
| Thanks,
| Simon.
|your replies!
|
|





From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 17:05:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Kilmartin

John Snyder



> The correct address for Greg and John Kilmartin is
> kas@ncable.net.au
> Regards
> Larry Varley





From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 20:21:13 -0500
Subject: RE: Engine Rebuild

Neal G.
61 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ron Fine Esq.
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 12:33 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Engine Rebuild


Hi Again,   I am getting my engine back from the machine shop this weekend
and
I will start putting everything back together over the next few weekends.
Once the engine is back together it will sit in my garage for at least 6
months or longer before it gets to go back into my car so the question is
what
is the best method for lubricating the engine parts now to avoid problems
down
the road when I go to start it for the first time.  I know about products
sold
that call them selves Cam Lube and Engine Rebuild Lube.  Is there any one
product I should use or any particular method I should follow at this time.
Thanks for any advise.
Ron Fine
61BN7





From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 21:01:27 -0500
Subject: RE: Engine Rebuild

Thanks for sharing your "humble" opinion.  Instead of name calling, how
about actually attempting to add value?  So what does your 5 decades of
experience recommend for a rebuild lube and why???

Neal G.
61 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: justbrits [mailto:justbrits@comcast.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 8:28 PM
To: Neal Grotenhuis
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild


Unfortunately, Neal:

<<My rebuilder recommended white lithium grease in a spray can. >>

You have an IDIOT for a "wrench".

'Course, that is just my HO as I am only going on 5 decades of doing this
sort of thing.

Diesel??  YEP.  Gas??  NO way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Best be changing oil AND filter every 50 miles.

Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA (24+ years)
Member & Tech Contact, AHCUSA

Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Please visit my web site at:
www.justbrits.com





From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 20:39:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

Cheers,
Chris
BJ8...panel fitting has begun

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis@comcast.net>
To: "justbrits" <justbrits@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 8:01 PM
Subject: RE: Engine Rebuild


> Ed,
>
> Thanks for sharing your "humble" opinion.  Instead of name calling, how
> about actually attempting to add value?  So what does your 5 decades of
> experience recommend for a rebuild lube and why???
>
> Neal G.
> 61 BT7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: justbrits [mailto:justbrits@comcast.net]
> Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 8:28 PM
> To: Neal Grotenhuis
> Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild
>
>
> Unfortunately, Neal:
>
> <<My rebuilder recommended white lithium grease in a spray can. >>
>
> You have an IDIOT for a "wrench".
>
> 'Course, that is just my HO as I am only going on 5 decades of doing this
> sort of thing.
>
> Diesel??  YEP.  Gas??  NO way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Best be changing oil AND filter every 50 miles.
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
> Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA (24+ years, and still
without tact)
> Member & Tech Contact, AHCUSA
>
> Ed Kaler, Meathead





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 20:16:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

There are many good lubes for the rest of the engine but DO use a good 
high pressure grease such as moly disulfide on the cam & lifters. These 
are probably the most critical parts of an engine for proper lube & 
break in.
Dave Russell

Ron Fine Esq. wrote:
> Hi Again,   I am getting my engine back from the machine shop this weekend and
> I will start putting everything back together over the next few weekends.
> Once the engine is back together it will sit in my garage for at least 6
> months or longer before it gets to go back into my car so the question is what
> is the best method for lubricating the engine parts now to avoid problems down
> the road when I go to start it for the first time.  I know about products sold
> that call them selves Cam Lube and Engine Rebuild Lube.  Is there any one
> product I should use or any particular method I should follow at this time.
> Thanks for any advise.
> Ron Fine
> 61BN7





From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 22:30:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

see   http://www.lubriplate.com/Store/03494.asp





From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 22:37:26 -0500
Subject: Steering Wheel ID

Thanks in advance.

Mike L.





From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 22:59:59 EST
Subject: Re: rear cockpit  panel

David Nock . Sheila (Nock) Huggins . Norman Nock ... British Car Specialists 
, 2060 N wilson Way , Stockton , C.A . (209)948-8767  .. FAX # (209)948-1030  
.. britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net





From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 23:10:44 EST
Subject: Re: Kilmartin Status

    "Shipping charges will apply if out side of the continental United States"





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 00:40:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

There are some better recommendations on this list
than what I have as far as lubes go... but wiping a
thin film of motor oil on the cylinder walls and crank
mains as well as soaking the main bearings in motor
oil overnight is a good idea.  Cam lube for the cam
bearings, lobes and lifters too is critical.

After all the assembly I would suggest putting the
block in a sealed garbage bag with some type of
dessicant or dehumidifiers (usually you can find cheap
chemical pot - style dehumidifiers in a place such as
Longs drugs or maybe a place that sells closet
supplies - these are often used by women to keep their
clothes from mildewing in humidity).  

You can also buy dessicant packs from
http://www.calcarcover.com/ (look under car storage). 
Doing this will definitely keep all the cast iron
surfaces clear of any rust or corrosion.

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
    
--- "Ron Fine Esq." <ronfineesq@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Hi Again,   I am getting my engine back from the
> machine shop this weekend and
> I will start putting everything back together over
> the next few weekends.
> Once the engine is back together it will sit in my
> garage for at least 6
> months or longer before it gets to go back into my
> car so the question is what
> is the best method for lubricating the engine parts
> now to avoid problems down
> the road when I go to start it for the first time. 
> I know about products sold
> that call them selves Cam Lube and Engine Rebuild
> Lube.  Is there any one
> product I should use or any particular method I
> should follow at this time.
> Thanks for any advise.
> Ron Fine
> 61BN7





From "Bill Browning" <gbrowning at carolina.rr.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 07:38:16 -0500
Subject: advice on painting BJ8 and engine detail cost estimate

1. a fair and reasonable price for painting (bare metal) BJ8, (assuming very
little bondo finishing), taking panels off to paint

2. engine cpt detail,

3. wiring harnesses replaced when doing engine cpt detail

also a fair price for BJ8 engine rebuild

a lot of variables here but am looking for ballpark close estimate of time
needed and $ needed

many thanks for you help

Bill Browning
Charlotte, N. C.





From "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 13:38:09 +0100
Subject: Friday joke

Siad waht?
Aoccdrnig to rscheearch at an Elingsh uinervtisy, it deosn't 
mttaer in
waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmmoetnt tihng is 
taht
the frist  and lsat ltteer are in the rghit pclae.
The rset can be a toatl mses and you can still raed it wouthit a 
porbelm.
This is bcuseae we do not raed ervey lteter by itslef but the wrod 
as a
wlohe and the brain fguiers it out aynawy. No kdidnig.

Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6





From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 04:59:08 -0800
Subject: weight of BJ78 transmission





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 08:11:56 -0500
Subject: RE: Friday joke


> [Original Message]
> From: Ph.J.Aeckerlin <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/12/04 7:47:24 AM
> Subject: Friday joke
>
> Hope no-one is insulted by a foreigner/alien sending in the following.
>
> Siad waht?
> Aoccdrnig to rscheearch at an Elingsh uinervtisy, it deosn't 
> mttaer in
> waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmmoetnt tihng is 
> taht
> the frist  and lsat ltteer are in the rghit pclae.
> The rset can be a toatl mses and you can still raed it wouthit a 
> porbelm.
> This is bcuseae we do not raed ervey lteter by itslef but the wrod 
> as a
> wlohe and the brain fguiers it out aynawy. No kdidnig.
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
> 1974 BMW 75/6





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 06:14:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: weight of BJ78 transmission

I don't know the exact weight, but I DO know that the
tranny+OD is just light enough to be shipped by
regular UPS and the cost is pretty low.  I just had
one with no overdrive and another w/ overdrive sent to
me in California and I think cost of shipping was
somewhere around $50.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- "F. Ronald Rader" <rader@interworld.net> wrote:
> Listers:
> any idea of the weight of the tranny alone? no
> overdrive.
> I need to ship one and all of my books are packed
> for a move.
> Ron Rader
> 1965 BJ8
> Playa del Rey CA





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 06:19:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Friday joke

Hloy Siht, I cluod raed erevy fcuknig wrod you jsut
worte. Taht's fcuknig azaming!

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8





From mike brooks <hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 06:29:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey in Lake Bluff Illinois


 


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search - Find what youre looking for faster.





From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 10:25:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: weight of BJ78 transmission

--- "F. Ronald Rader" <rader@interworld.net> wrote: <<  Listers: any idea of 
the weight of the
tranny alone? no overdrive. I need to ship one and all of my books are packed 
for a move.  >>


=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

______________________________________________________________________ 
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca





From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 08:17:36 -0800
Subject: Re: weight of BJ78 transmission


-- 

-- 
David Nock
               NEW  E-mail Addresses!!!

 David Nock, Technical Questions   healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions    britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net

British Car Specialists  2060 N. Wilson Way   Stockton  CA  95205
 Phone 209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030

http://www.britishcarspecialists.com


on 3/12/04 4:59 AM, F. Ronald Rader at rader@interworld.net wrote:

> Listers:
> any idea of the weight of the tranny alone? no overdrive.
> I need to ship one and all of my books are packed for a move.
> Ron Rader
> 1965 BJ8
> Playa del Rey CA





From N0040 at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 14:10:23 EST
Subject: Re: Friday joke

Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI





From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 15:18:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

> Ed will just say you're wrong and laugh at you.

Don't take it personally--he does that with everyone!

Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans





From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 15:48:26 EST
Subject: re:engine rebuild





From "Tom Rech" <tdrech at ev1.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 15:41:19 -0600
Subject: RE: Engine Rebuild

All of your recommendations are great except for the one about soaking
the bearing shells in motor oil overnight. I was taught in mechanics
school that you never oil the backs of the shells (main or rods) before
installing them . The idea was that the presence of oil between the
shell and bearing saddle hinders heat transfer from the bearing surface
into the block and water jacket. As a result, you could have premature
bearing failure due to heat build-up or hot spots. We were taught to
install the shells dry and then use liberal amounts of Lubriplate 105 on
the bearing surfaces.

Best regards,

Tom





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 15:21:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Engine Rebuild

You're right.  I was inadvertantly thinking about the
treating a bushing.  

When I assembled my BJ8 motor 15 years ago I just used
motor oil on the crank side surface, and nothing on
the outside of the bearing.  Still going strong about
80,000 miles later!

By the way, I have 5 ring pistons... and I still don't
burn any oil & have like new compression!

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- Tom Rech <tdrech@ev1.net> wrote:
> Alan--
> 
> All of your recommendations are great except for the
> one about soaking
> the bearing shells in motor oil overnight. I was
> taught in mechanics
> school that you never oil the backs of the shells
> (main or rods) before
> installing them . The idea was that the presence of
> oil between the
> shell and bearing saddle hinders heat transfer from
> the bearing surface
> into the block and water jacket. As a result, you
> could have premature
> bearing failure due to heat build-up or hot spots.
> We were taught to
> install the shells dry and then use liberal amounts
> of Lubriplate 105 on
> the bearing surfaces.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Tom





From Wesp11 at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 18:51:28 EST
Subject: Ebay bj8 for $8000





From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 18:54:11 -0500
Subject: Dunn, NC

Anybody out there in Dunn, NC area?  I will be leaving in about an hour for an
overnight stay there and to take my daughter to Campbell University Sat morn.
If anyone is in the area please give me a call at the Econolodge on E Broad in
Dunn.  Probably will not be there until 11 tonight so call then or in the
morn.

I seem to recall someone saying they were in Dunn and would love to hook up
with another lister.

Keith Pennell





From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 20:25:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Ebay bj8 for $8000





From "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette at comcast.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 21:04:28 -0500
Subject: RE: Ebay bj8 for $8000

Ebay will never send you an email asking for you to divulge that type of
info so beware...

Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
Been on Ebay since 1997 (knew the founder, I go back that far...) 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Healeyguy@aol.com
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 8:26 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Ebay bj8 for $8000

Same scam. Photos for this auction was taken from a company website that
previously sold the green BJ8 in question.  See
http://harwood-enterprises.com/british/photos110.1.html
What I find interesting is how the scammer (just made that word up) uses an
apparent legitimate ebay sellers name to host the auction.  If you look at
what the supposed seller deals in, in this case sports cards (not cars), he
or she doesn't seem to have any connection to cars or Healeys. Makes you
wonder if folks can easily get access to your email, ebay info and who knows
what else.
Aloha
Perry





From "Lynda Lawrence" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 20:40:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

Bill Lawrence

On Mar 12, 2004, at 2:41 PM, Tom Rech wrote:

> Alan--
>
> All of your recommendations are great except for the one about soaking
> the bearing shells in motor oil overnight. I was taught in mechanics
> school that you never oil the backs of the shells (main or rods) before
> installing them . The idea was that the presence of oil between the
> shell and bearing saddle hinders heat transfer from the bearing surface
> into the block and water jacket. As a result, you could have premature
> bearing failure due to heat build-up or hot spots. We were taught to
> install the shells dry and then use liberal amounts of Lubriplate 105 
> on
> the bearing surfaces.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Tom





From "Big Sixer" <healey at ledwith.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 23:21:59 -0500
Subject: Installing Headlights - Adjustments BJ7

Should they go on the outside? That is, (looking toward the front of the car),
on the driver's side-left fender, is the adjusting screw on the left (away
from the center of the car)?
Is the passenger's headlight side adjusting screw also on the outside of the
fender (right), or toward the center of the car?

Are they supposed to be mirror image of each-other (side screws on the
outside) or the same, with side screws both on the right or left.

Hard to explain clearly, but hopefully someone has done this before.

thanks

Ryan
BJ7





From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 23:10:07 -0600
Subject: Re: LA Healey run pictures online

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: "Bert Van Brande" <bertvanbrande@yahoo.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 7:37 AM
Subject: Re: LA Healey run pictures online


> Very Nice
>
> --
> Tim Davis BN7
> > Hi,
> >
> > I posted pictures online of the LA area Healey run of
> > last saturday to Randsburg, an old goldmining town.
> >
> > You can view the gallery at:
> >
> > http://www.pbase.com/pictus/healey_run
> >
> > Note we lined up the cars in front of an 'Austin'
> > garage in the middle of the desert!
> >
> > Thanks to Steve Gerow to take me onboard his 100/6 as
> > a passenger as my 56 BN2 is 'work in progress'.
> >
> > This is my first posting on this list which already
> > provided me with a wealth of information in the
> > archives.  Thanks, the amount of know-how on this list
> > is amazing.  I'll update you on the state/progress of
> > my BN2 project in a next email.
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> >
> > Bert Van Brande
> > Marina Del Rey, CA
> > 56 BN2 'WIP'
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what youre looking for





From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 21:49:57 -0800
Subject: Abarth exhaust

Robert Hughes
65 BJ8





From <satkinson at attglobal.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 07:43:18 -0500
Subject: Wheel Arches

Thanks,


Simon Atkinson
1959 BT7





From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 06:42:42 -0800
Subject: Steering idler and steering gearbox oil

Thanks in advance

Tracy





From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 06:45:00 -0800
Subject: Re: weight of BJ78 transmission

J. Scott Morris wrote:

>Good morning Ron;  Here are the weights I sourced many years ago.  They were 
>in a table which I
>have tried to copy into this email.  Hope they help.
>--Scott Morris
> 
>BN7, BT7 & BJ7
>             Individual        Overdrive       Non-OD
>Engine         611.0             611.0         611.0
>Trans           79.5               --           79.5
>Overdrive       36.5               --            --
>Trans w/ OD      --              117.0           --       
>Total            --              728.0         690.5
>Source: Workshop Manual, General Data, page 17
>
>--- "F. Ronald Rader" <rader@interworld.net> wrote: <<  Listers: any idea of 
>the weight of the
>tranny alone? no overdrive. I need to ship one and all of my books are packed 
>for a move.  >>
>
>
>=====
>J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
>
>______________________________________________________________________ 
>Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
>
>*





From Jon McLeroy <jfm at spyderinternet.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 09:59:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Steering idler and steering gearbox oil

Per Penrite's Lubrication Recommendation Chart one should use either Mild 
EP (which is an SAE 140, API GL4 and Compatible with yellow metals) or if 
leakage is a problem then Penrite Steering Lube.

I have both in stock.

If you would like our brochure and other information about the correct 
lubricants for your Healey please let me have your mailing address and I 
will get a packet out to you.

Cheers and God Bless
Jon

Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx  75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@spyderinternet.com
www.classicautolubes.com

At 06:42 AM 3/13/04 -0800, you wrote:
>Oh wise ones....
>OK, things are looking up.  I am now reinstalling the complete front end 
>with all but the steering gearbox rebuilt, renewed
>or replaced.  It is all fitting together nicely.  What is the appropriate 
>oil to use in the idler and steering gearbox?  The manual says
>hypoid oil, but I recall some mentioning alternatives.  Also is it 
>advisable to flush out the steering box before refilling and if so with what?
>It is tight and smooth without play so I wound be pulling it apart.
>Does the split olive and nut actually seal in oil? I ask since it would 
>seem to be easier to top this off before reinstalling the column.  The 
>idler had oil in it that resembled rear axle hypoid oil.
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Tracy


-- 
Spydernet has scanned this message for viruses and
dangerous content.





From Mike MacLean <macleans at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 09:30:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

Robert D. Hughes wrote:

> Speaking of Abarth exhaust systems (as we were), there's a NOS Abarth 
> muffler
> for the Mk I Sprite on Ebay right now that has been bid up to $366.66 
> with 7 hours
> to go.  Anybody wanna guess at what one for a big Healey would go for???
>
> Robert Hughes
> 65 BJ8





From "Dennis Broughel" <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 12:37:59 -0500
Subject: gas tank


Dennis Broughel
brougheldp@earthlink.net





From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 09:42:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Steering idler and steering gearbox oil


If your seal is good and the box doesn't leak then regular hypoid
works fine, pours easier and is cheap and plentiful.  Thicker lubricants,
like the Pennrite product and even STP can help slow leaking, but
are more difficult to pour and it's one more bottle of stuff sitting on
your shelf.

The olive DOES seal the box, in fact, if you do flush the box you'll
have to drain through there as I don't believe there is a drain plug on
the bottom.  I don't know if that is the low point, so if you do flush the
box make sure you get the flushing fluid out completely.  The usual
culprits--mineral spirits, kerosene, etc.--should work fine for flushing,
but if you have no reason to suspect metal or other contamination I don't
think it's completely necessary; just drain the old fluid and fill with new
should do.  

BTW, when the seal does give up the ghost, the box will "flush" itself.
I've changed these seals in situ--but be sure to use the thicker, OEM-type
seal, not the thinner kind that some vendors sell.  It's (the thinner seal) is
a fit diameter-wise, but the "thinner" body doesn't seat in the housing 
as well and will likely leak (some Listers use two of these stacked-up).


bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 6:42 AM
Subject: Steering idler and steering gearbox oil


> Oh wise ones....
> OK, things are looking up.  I am now reinstalling the complete front end 
> with all but the steering gearbox rebuilt, renewed
> or replaced.  It is all fitting together nicely.  What is the 
> appropriate oil to use in the idler and steering gearbox?  The manual says
> hypoid oil, but I recall some mentioning alternatives.  Also is it 
> advisable to flush out the steering box before refilling and if so with 
> what?
> It is tight and smooth without play so I wound be pulling it apart.  
> Does the split olive and nut actually seal in oil? 
> I ask since it would seem to be easier to top this off before 
> reinstalling the column.  The idler had oil in it that resembled rear 
> axle hypoid oil.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Tracy





From WilKo at aol.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 13:25:47 EST
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

A sprite is a from a much lower price point, and needs less than half as much
exhaust displacement (948 to 1275 vs 2650-3000).

;)



In a message dated 3/13/04 9:33:21 AM, macleans@earthlink.net writes:


>   What are you trying to say about an Abarth for a Sprite?  Is it
> worth less because it is for the lowly Sprite?





From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 12:26:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

I read the original comment as a reflection of that, not a knock on Sprites

Greg Lemon
54 BN1, many Sprites in my past

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike MacLean" <macleans@earthlink.net>
To: "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh@tscnet.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 11:30 AM
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust


> Robert,
>      What are you trying to say about an Abarth for a Sprite?  Is it
> worth less because it is for the lowly Sprite?  I think any NOS Abarth
> exhaust is worth whatever the big or little Healey owner pays for it.
> Just another example of the deep rooted attitude that big Healy owners
> have always had for Sprite owners.  "That's cute, when are you going to
> get a real Healey?"  I hear it all the time and own both a Bugeye and a
> BN2. The person saying it says it in a joking manner, but why would he
> say it if he wasn't thinking it?
> Mike MacLean
> 60 Sprite
> 56 BN2
>
> Robert D. Hughes wrote:
>
> > Speaking of Abarth exhaust systems (as we were), there's a NOS Abarth
> > muffler
> > for the Mk I Sprite on Ebay right now that has been bid up to $366.66
> > with 7 hours
> > to go.  Anybody wanna guess at what one for a big Healey would go for???
> >
> > Robert Hughes
> > 65 BJ8





From busyrider at springmail.com
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 13:33:45 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

I agree that's an attitude of many Big Healey owners, but I read Robert's 
message to mean that due to the more complex nature of a BJ8 system it might 
cost a multiple of the cost of a Sprite muffler. 

Back to your observation about Big Healey owners and their opinions of Sprites. 
Most Big Healey owners don't understand Sprites. Many see Sprites as an entry 
level Healey bought and owned by people that can't afford a Big Healey. They 
don't realize the fun and excitement of a Sprite. For some, the lack of flash 
and prestige is unappealing. 

Many Sprite owners have the perception that the Healey clubs have mixed 
feelings about Sprites.  For many years the California club suffered a memory 
lapse when the name Sprite was even mentioned. Some Sprite owners have said 
they don't feel comfortable or welcome at National Healey events. Those 
statements might upset some Club people, but don't shoot the messenger. The 
perception is out there. It's up to you to change it.

But simply put, they are two different cars. I know you're on the Spridget list 
also. How often do we read the term "Big Healey" over there. Seldom, if ever. 
Sprite owners understand that Big Healeys have nothing in common with 
Spridgets. I have known few Spridget enthusiasts that have had any interest in 
the other Healey.

Fred Criswell

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike MacLean <macleans@earthlink.net>
Sent: Mar 13, 2004 12:30 PM
To: "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh@tscnet.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

Robert,
     What are you trying to say about an Abarth for a Sprite?  Is it 
worth less because it is for the lowly Sprite? 





From Jon McLeroy <jfm at spyderinternet.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 12:39:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Steering idler and steering gearbox oil - from Ryan

Yes, the Steering lube will push out any residual thinner oil and then the 
box should quit leaking.

By the way the new Steering Lube bottles have been improved with a pull out 
tube built in the bottle so it should be a lot easier to get the lube in 
the steering box.  Just squeeze.

The 500ml bottle is $8.50 plus shipping.

Jon


At 12:58 PM 3/13/04 -0500, you wrote:
>I had my steering box rebuilt and used the thinner oil (I forget which, but
>it was the right stuff), and it leaks. Can I simply drain out the oil and
>replace it with Penrite Steering lube? If so, how much is it? I'll probably
>call you on monday to order some.
>Leaks are bothersome. :)
>
>Ryan Ledwith
>BJ7

Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx.  75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@spyderinternet.com
www.classicautolubes.com 


-- 
Spydernet has scanned this message for viruses and
dangerous content.





From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 11:28:11 -0800
Subject: Re: weight of BJ78 transmission

At 07:25 AM 3/12/2004, J. Scott Morris wrote:
>Good morning Ron;  Here are the weights I sourced many years ago.  They 
>were in a table which I
>have tried to copy into this email.  Hope they help.
>--Scott Morris
>
>BN7, BT7 & BJ7
>               Individual        Overdrive       Non-OD
>Engine          611.0             611.0         611.0
>Trans            79.5               --           79.5
>Overdrive       36.5                --            --
>Trans w/ OD       --              117.0           --
>Total             --              728.0         690.5
>Source: Workshop Manual, General Data, page 17





From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 11:32:05 -0800
Subject: more help needed.





From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 12:52:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

Robert Hughes
65 BJ8  AND 60 Sprite
************************************************************

At 09:30 AM 3/13/2004, Mike MacLean wrote:
>Robert,
>     What are you trying to say about an Abarth for a Sprite?  Is it worth 
> less because it is for the lowly Sprite?  I think any NOS Abarth exhaust 
> is worth whatever the big or little Healey owner pays for it.
>Just another example of the deep rooted attitude that big Healy owners 
>have always had for Sprite owners.  "That's cute, when are you going to 
>get a real Healey?"  I hear it all the time and own both a Bugeye and a 
>BN2. The person saying it says it in a joking manner, but why would he say 
>it if he wasn't thinking it?
>Mike MacLean
>60 Sprite
>56 BN2
>
>Robert D. Hughes wrote:
>
>>Speaking of Abarth exhaust systems (as we were), there's a NOS Abarth muffler
>>for the Mk I Sprite on Ebay right now that has been bid up to $366.66 
>>with 7 hours
>>to go.  Anybody wanna guess at what one for a big Healey would go for???
>>
>>Robert Hughes
>>65 BJ8





From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 16:39:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II





From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 11:34:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

I'm not a Sprite fanatic right now, but I keep my eye out and may become
an owner if the right car comes along.  The attention that the AHCUSA pays
to Sprites is quite appropriate IMO.


bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <busyrider@springmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust


> Mike,
>
> I agree that's an attitude of many Big Healey owners, but I read Robert's 
>message to mean that due to the more complex
nature of a BJ8 system it might cost a multiple of the cost of a Sprite muffler.
>
> Back to your observation about Big Healey owners and their opinions of 
>Sprites. Most Big Healey owners don't
understand Sprites. Many see Sprites as an entry level Healey bought and owned 
by people that can't afford a Big Healey.
They don't realize the fun and excitement of a Sprite. For some, the lack of 
flash and prestige is unappealing.
>
> Many Sprite owners have the perception that the Healey clubs have mixed 
>feelings about Sprites.  For many years the
California club suffered a memory lapse when the name Sprite was even 
mentioned. Some Sprite owners have said they don't
feel comfortable or welcome at National Healey events. Those statements might 
upset some Club people, but don't shoot
the messenger. The perception is out there. It's up to you to change it.
>
> But simply put, they are two different cars. I know you're on the Spridget 
>list also. How often do we read the term
"Big Healey" over there. Seldom, if ever. Sprite owners understand that Big 
Healeys have nothing in common with
Spridgets. I have known few Spridget enthusiasts that have had any interest in 
the other Healey.
>
> Fred Criswell
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike MacLean <macleans@earthlink.net>
> Sent: Mar 13, 2004 12:30 PM
> To: "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh@tscnet.com>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust
>
> Robert,
>      What are you trying to say about an Abarth for a Sprite?  Is it
> worth less because it is for the lowly Sprite?





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 17:52:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

Cheers
Tom


> [Original Message]
> From: James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com>
> To: Robert D. Hughes <dhugh@tscnet.com>; Mike MacLean
<macleans@earthlink.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/13/04 4:44:52 PM
> Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust
>
> Mike. I didn't take the statement to be a put down of Sprites. I think it
is
> just a statement of fact. Sprites and big Healeys are two very different
cars.
> I campaigned a bug eye for four years in the sixties in SCCA Regionals. I
> loved that car!!! Unfortunately I am now to big to fit in one so I have
had
> move on to a larger car but I still remember the thrills that I got in
the Bug
> Eye. To me it's just different strokes for different folks. Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 17:54:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

tom


> [Original Message]
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/13/04 5:07:08 PM
> Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust
>
> Well, I can attest--as a member--that the AHCUSA is not biased;
> Sprite stuff is featured regularly and some issues of the magazine have
> been devoted to Little Healeys.  The club president, in fact, is (or used
> to be) a Sprite owner.
>
> I'm not a Sprite fanatic right now, but I keep my eye out and may become
> an owner if the right car comes along.  The attention that the AHCUSA pays
> to Sprites is quite appropriate IMO.
>
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ********************************************
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <busyrider@springmail.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 10:33 AM
> Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust
>
>
> > Mike,
> >
> > I agree that's an attitude of many Big Healey owners, but I read
Robert's message to mean that due to the more complex
> nature of a BJ8 system it might cost a multiple of the cost of a Sprite
muffler.
> >
> > Back to your observation about Big Healey owners and their opinions of
Sprites. Most Big Healey owners don't
> understand Sprites. Many see Sprites as an entry level Healey bought and
owned by people that can't afford a Big Healey.
> They don't realize the fun and excitement of a Sprite. For some, the lack
of flash and prestige is unappealing.
> >
> > Many Sprite owners have the perception that the Healey clubs have mixed
feelings about Sprites.  For many years the
> California club suffered a memory lapse when the name Sprite was even
mentioned. Some Sprite owners have said they don't
> feel comfortable or welcome at National Healey events. Those statements
might upset some Club people, but don't shoot
> the messenger. The perception is out there. It's up to you to change it.
> >
> > But simply put, they are two different cars. I know you're on the
Spridget list also. How often do we read the term
> "Big Healey" over there. Seldom, if ever. Sprite owners understand that
Big Healeys have nothing in common with
> Spridgets. I have known few Spridget enthusiasts that have had any
interest in the other Healey.
> >
> > Fred Criswell
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Mike MacLean <macleans@earthlink.net>
> > Sent: Mar 13, 2004 12:30 PM
> > To: "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh@tscnet.com>
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust
> >
> > Robert,
> >      What are you trying to say about an Abarth for a Sprite?  Is it
> > worth less because it is for the lowly Sprite?





From Mike MacLean <macleans at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 15:41:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

tom felts wrote:

>To be exact, 6 of the last 12 issues of Healey Marque had Sprites on the
>cover.
>
>tom
>
>
>  
>
>>[Original Message]
>>From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>
>>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>Date: 3/13/04 5:07:08 PM
>>Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust
>>
>>Well, I can attest--as a member--that the AHCUSA is not biased;
>>Sprite stuff is featured regularly and some issues of the magazine have
>>been devoted to Little Healeys.  The club president, in fact, is (or used
>>to be) a Sprite owner.
>>
>>I'm not a Sprite fanatic right now, but I keep my eye out and may become
>>an owner if the right car comes along.  The attention that the AHCUSA pays
>>to Sprites is quite appropriate IMO.
>>
>>
>>bs
>>********************************************
>>Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@pacbell.net
>>'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
>>********************************************
>>
>>----- Original Message ----- 
>>From: <busyrider@springmail.com>
>>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 10:33 AM
>>Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust
>>
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Mike,
>>>
>>>I agree that's an attitude of many Big Healey owners, but I read
>>>      
>>>
>Robert's message to mean that due to the more complex
>  
>
>>nature of a BJ8 system it might cost a multiple of the cost of a Sprite
>>    
>>
>muffler.
>  
>
>>>Back to your observation about Big Healey owners and their opinions of
>>>      
>>>
>Sprites. Most Big Healey owners don't
>  
>
>>understand Sprites. Many see Sprites as an entry level Healey bought and
>>    
>>
>owned by people that can't afford a Big Healey.
>  
>
>>They don't realize the fun and excitement of a Sprite. For some, the lack
>>    
>>
>of flash and prestige is unappealing.
>  
>
>>>Many Sprite owners have the perception that the Healey clubs have mixed
>>>      
>>>
>feelings about Sprites.  For many years the
>  
>
>>California club suffered a memory lapse when the name Sprite was even
>>    
>>
>mentioned. Some Sprite owners have said they don't
>  
>
>>feel comfortable or welcome at National Healey events. Those statements
>>    
>>
>might upset some Club people, but don't shoot
>  
>
>>the messenger. The perception is out there. It's up to you to change it.
>>    
>>
>>>But simply put, they are two different cars. I know you're on the
>>>      
>>>
>Spridget list also. How often do we read the term
>  
>
>>"Big Healey" over there. Seldom, if ever. Sprite owners understand that
>>    
>>
>Big Healeys have nothing in common with
>  
>
>>Spridgets. I have known few Spridget enthusiasts that have had any
>>    
>>
>interest in the other Healey.
>  
>
>>>Fred Criswell
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: Mike MacLean <macleans@earthlink.net>
>>>Sent: Mar 13, 2004 12:30 PM
>>>To: "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh@tscnet.com>
>>>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>>>Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust
>>>
>>>Robert,
>>>     What are you trying to say about an Abarth for a Sprite?  Is it
>>>worth less because it is for the lowly Sprite?





From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 15:55:05 -0800
Subject: Re: LA Healey run pictures online

We had our OE White BT7 out for a run through Pasadena and San Gabriel 
early this afternoon.  People on the curb kept referring to it as an MG 
or Triumph.  Maybe I should put a splitter in the exhaust!

Terry Blubaugh
Diamond Bar, CA


Scott Willis wrote:

>Thanks for posting!
>~Scott
>Mashed 60 BN7
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: <tld6008@mchsi.com>
>To: "Bert Van Brande" <bertvanbrande@yahoo.com>
>Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 7:37 AM
>Subject: Re: LA Healey run pictures online
>
>
>  
>
>>Very Nice
>>
>>--
>>Tim Davis BN7
>>    
>>
>>>Hi,
>>>
>>>I posted pictures online of the LA area Healey run of
>>>last saturday to Randsburg, an old goldmining town.
>>>
>>>You can view the gallery at:
>>>
>>>http://www.pbase.com/pictus/healey_run
>>>
>>>Note we lined up the cars in front of an 'Austin'
>>>garage in the middle of the desert!
>>>
>>>Thanks to Steve Gerow to take me onboard his 100/6 as
>>>a passenger as my 56 BN2 is 'work in progress'.
>>>
>>>This is my first posting on this list which already
>>>provided me with a wealth of information in the
>>>archives.  Thanks, the amount of know-how on this list
>>>is amazing.  I'll update you on the state/progress of
>>>my BN2 project in a next email.
>>>
>>>
>>>Cheers,
>>>
>>>
>>>Bert Van Brande
>>>Marina Del Rey, CA
>>>56 BN2 'WIP'





From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 16:35:21 -0800
Subject: LA Healey run

  03:55 PM 3/13/2004, Terry Blubaugh wrote:

>We had our OE White BT7 out for a run through Pasadena and San Gabriel 
>early this afternoon.  People on the curb kept referring to it as an MG or 
>Triumph.  Maybe I should put a splitter in the exhaust!
>
>Terry Blubaugh
>Diamond Bar, CA





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 19:48:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

I too enjoy an all-Brit show--also a Healey show as well.  

Mike--if you are near Pittsburgh, please bring your Sprite on over--especially 
during the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix--we love em'.

Tom


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Mike MacLean 
To: tom felts
Cc: Bob Spidell; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: 3/13/04 6:41:23 PM 
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust


AHCUSA did not "bother" with Sprites until the membership started to dwindle 
due to age.  I'm sure they thought they could bring membership up if they 
included Sprites and Jensen Healeys which get even less respect.  I'm not 
saying that worth less because it is for the lowly Sprite?





From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 20:00:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust - now Abarth status

While I don't know what lister Hughes had in mind when he posed the question
of what the Big Healey Abarth might command,  many of us inferred that he
was suggesting a higher dollar. Actually, he would have been correct. The
Abarth exhaust model AH-200 for a Bugeye Sprite in 1963 dollars was priced
at $24.95. The Big Healey system, model AH-306, was priced at $59.50.  There
was a lot more to the Big Healey system than there was to the Sprite, thus
the higher price tag.

Now with that out of the way, I'm actually quite surprised to hear of a
class structure within the Healey community. It has not been my experience,
although I can't argue with others' experiences. I have found the Healey
folks to be the friendliest and most helpful to each other. I won't
implicate other marques, but my experience hasn't been the same elsewhere. I
am a Bugeye owner as well as a Big Healey owner and I personally look at
both with great admiration. Although if I had to choose, I would keep my BN2
over my Bugeye and BN7. But that decision has other factors involved.
Honestly, I have the most driving fun with the Bugeye.

I am moving forward with my exhaust project, albeit at a slow pace. I spoke
once again with the ANSA person on Thursday. After a couple of weeks of
unresponsiveness I called and outlined my high level requirements if he were
to partner with me. I thought he might bail out, but I seemed to actually
pique his interest a little more. He is now doing some homework and owes me
a call within a week. The project will proceed.

I have a NOS Bugeye system in hand. I have another NOS system that will
probably be appropriate for the 1275 engined Sprites.  While I do not yet
have an early (AH-306) system for the Big Healey, one may materialize soon.

I plan to do extensive testing once I have more to work with and will likely
call for volunteers to participate. Results will be available for all to
review (hear) and comment.  This will take a while though, please be
patient.

Regards,
Mike L.





From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 17:17:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

John Snyder


> Take the chip off your shoulder.  I still have a Sprite that I bought new
> in 1960 and would have loved to have an Abarth muffler when they were new.
The BJ8 was a great addition to our A-H family, but the the Sprite still has
first place in our hearts. My only comment was to the high price a $40
dollar item can bring now.  I also believe most other big Healey owners
appreciate the Sprite -- especially after they've driven one on a twisty
road!
>
> Robert Hughes
> 65 BJ8  AND 60 Sprite
> ************************************************************
>
> At 09:30 AM 3/13/2004, Mike MacLean wrote:
> >Robert,
> >     What are you trying to say about an Abarth for a Sprite?  Is it
worth
> > less because it is for the lowly Sprite?  I think any NOS Abarth exhaust
> > is worth whatever the big or little Healey owner pays for it. Just
another example of the deep rooted attitude that big Healy owners have
always had for Sprite owners.  "That's cute, when are you going to get a
real Healey?"  I hear it all the time and own both a Bugeye and a BN2. The
person saying it says it in a joking manner, but why would he say it if he
wasn't thinking it?
> >Mike MacLean
> >60 Sprite
> >56 BN2





From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 20:56:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering idler and steering gearbox oil - from Ryan

Hooray!  Hooray!  Hooray!  Jon why didn't you have that bottle when I got my
lube from you a while back?  :):):)  Wound up transferring it to a bottle
similar to what you describe.  No more leaks though.

Ryan if you feel you must flush the box use a cheap syringe from an auto
parts store and spray kerosene in there.  Then use the syringe to suck it
all out getting all the way to the bottom of the box.  Repeat once or twice
as you are lead.

Keith Pennell


> Ryan
>
> Yes, the Steering lube will push out any residual thinner oil and then the
> box should quit leaking.
>
> By the way the new Steering Lube bottles have been improved with a pull
out
> tube built in the bottle so it should be a lot easier to get the lube in
> the steering box.  Just squeeze.
>
> The 500ml bottle is $8.50 plus shipping.
>
> Jon





From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 18:04:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 6 cyl head thickness?

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam





From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 18:59:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 6 cyl head porting

On my AH head, an area that looks especially easy is
the top half of each intake port near the manifold
face.  It appears the factory used a full dia tool to
size this region but only went in about 1".  Beyond
that, the port very abruptly necks down to the cast
dimension.  I'm thinking about grinding out that
transition to make one continuous arc along the top of
the intake port.  It looks like .080" could removed at
the transition point.  Anyone ever do this before? 
Any other areas people first modify?
Thanks for comments,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Torrance, CA

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam





From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 21:15:10 -0600
Subject: Re: 6 cyl head porting

Soooooo my advice is trend lightly... it's hard stuff to put back if you
port them out to much....  Just make the transitions smoother... clean up
the castings and keep it about or just slightly larger then it came to
you... don't get greedy.... you really will hurt the over all performance.

If you use a carbide bit at all.... make sure it's fine and your light... do
most your work with tootsie rolls...( sand paper on a stick )  and be Very
careful of the the valve seat itself... which should be done after you clean
them up...

Enjoy....

Keith
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 8:59 PM
Subject: 6 cyl head porting


> I've heard/read people porting their 6 cylinder heads
> to spice 'em up.  From my Peter Burgess MG tuning
> book, it says some of the greatest gains for non race
> heads are made improving outside radius transitions.
>
> On my AH head, an area that looks especially easy is
> the top half of each intake port near the manifold
> face.  It appears the factory used a full dia tool to
> size this region but only went in about 1".  Beyond
> that, the port very abruptly necks down to the cast
> dimension.  I'm thinking about grinding out that
> transition to make one continuous arc along the top of
> the intake port.  It looks like .080" could removed at
> the transition point.  Anyone ever do this before?
> Any other areas people first modify?
> Thanks for comments,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> Torrance, CA





From "Lynda Lawrence" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 21:21:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

BillLawrence
On Mar 13, 2004, at 10:30 AM, Mike MacLean wrote:

> Robert,
>     What are you trying to say about an Abarth for a Sprite?  Is it 
> worth less because it is for the lowly Sprite?  I think any NOS Abarth 
> exhaust is worth whatever the big or little Healey owner pays for it.  
> Just another example of the deep rooted attitude that big Healy owners 
> have always had for Sprite owners.  "That's cute, when are you going 
> to get a real Healey?"  I hear it all the time and own both a Bugeye 
> and a BN2. The person saying it says it in a joking manner, but why 
> would he say it if he wasn't thinking it?
> Mike MacLean
> 60 Sprite
> 56 BN2
>
> Robert D. Hughes wrote:





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 03:47:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust

No offense but last time I checked, parts for Sprites
were a alot cheaper than big healey parts.  Motors,
pistons, distributors, carburettors, wheels,
bearings... etc etc... shall I go on?  Sharing many of
the smae parts with the Mini and Midget just makes
this stuff cheaper.  Doesn't mean anyone thinks it's
worse.

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8


--- Mike MacLean <macleans@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Robert,
>      What are you trying to say about an Abarth for
> a Sprite?  Is it 
> worth less because it is for the lowly Sprite?  I
> think any NOS Abarth 
> exhaust is worth whatever the big or little Healey
> owner pays for it.  
> Just another example of the deep rooted attitude
> that big Healy owners 
> have always had for Sprite owners.  "That's cute,
> when are you going to 
> get a real Healey?"  I hear it all the time and own
> both a Bugeye and a 
> BN2. The person saying it says it in a joking
> manner, but why would he 
> say it if he wasn't thinking it?
> Mike MacLean
> 60 Sprite
> 56 BN2
> 
> Robert D. Hughes wrote:
> 
> > Speaking of Abarth exhaust systems (as we were),
> there's a NOS Abarth 
> > muffler
> > for the Mk I Sprite on Ebay right now that has
> been bid up to $366.66 
> > with 7 hours
> > to go.  Anybody wanna guess at what one for a big
> Healey would go for???
> >
> > Robert Hughes
> > 65 BJ8





From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 23:15:10 +1100
Subject: Re: 6 cyl head porting

Whatever you do - DON'T open up the exhaust ports on a 6 cylinder healey
head. If you want it to have more torque - you could consider putting in a
SMALLER exhaust valve.....  But don't make the ports bigger.

http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html

Its all about port velocity - not port diameter. If you don't understand the
difference - then don't touch it. This is really one of those areas where my
best advice is - if you don't really know what your doing - give the job to
someone who does. A bad porting job will actually reduce your engines power
& torque. And it should be done in conjuction with a cam etc.

If you choose to do it yourself, use an old small dia valve (eg a series) to
measure roundness; and read the Vizard A series book several times before
you grind anything.


Best regards
Chris


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: 6 cyl head porting


> Joe.. your right in that there are significant performance gains to be had
> in lightly porting a head.... BUT and it's a BIG ASS BUTT....  be
careful...
> to much is great in the upper RPM range but Very bad for the area under
the
> torque curve....
>
> Soooooo my advice is trend lightly... it's hard stuff to put back if you
> port them out to much....  Just make the transitions smoother... clean up
> the castings and keep it about or just slightly larger then it came to
> you... don't get greedy.... you really will hurt the over all performance.
>
> If you use a carbide bit at all.... make sure it's fine and your light...
do
> most your work with tootsie rolls...( sand paper on a stick )  and be Very
> careful of the the valve seat itself... which should be done after you
clean
> them up...
>
> Enjoy....
>
> Keith
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
> To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 8:59 PM
> Subject: 6 cyl head porting
>
>
> > I've heard/read people porting their 6 cylinder heads
> > to spice 'em up.  From my Peter Burgess MG tuning
> > book, it says some of the greatest gains for non race
> > heads are made improving outside radius transitions.
> >
> > On my AH head, an area that looks especially easy is
> > the top half of each intake port near the manifold
> > face.  It appears the factory used a full dia tool to
> > size this region but only went in about 1".  Beyond
> > that, the port very abruptly necks down to the cast
> > dimension.  I'm thinking about grinding out that
> > transition to make one continuous arc along the top of
> > the intake port.  It looks like .080" could removed at
> > the transition point.  Anyone ever do this before?
> > Any other areas people first modify?
> > Thanks for comments,
> > Joe Mulqueen
> > '60 BT7
> > Torrance, CA





From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 07:18:53 -0600
Subject: The Steering wheel?

I'd love to borrow or buy it from them for my race car.

anyway someone out there can help me out?

Thanks
Keith Turk





From linwood rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 09:31:07 -0500
Subject: Trunnion bushings

Lin Rose 





From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 09:46:33 -0500
Subject: transporting SE to NW





From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 10:20:54 -0500
Subject: RE: Trunnion bushings

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of linwood rose
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 9:31 AM
To: healey list
Subject: Trunnion bushings

Hello all,
I have purchased offset bushings for the top trunnions for my 60 BT7, 
but now I am having second thoughts about installation. My car is being 
set up for fast road use, not a race or rally car. If the bushing 
shifted in the trunnion it would seem that the two sides of the car 
could end up with different configurations. Should I be concerned about 
this, or is it a needless worry if the top pin is tightly secured? 
Anybody tried these - with what results? Thanks.

Lin Rose 





From "Martin Heim" <bn4 at onlinehome.de>
From: <Grant2002spamnot@cs.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 17:37:11 +0100
Subject: Re: Trunnion bushings

this is an interesting thread. As I have not the possibility right now to
measure anything (still the painted chassis + some attached front suspension
parts) I thought of at least fitting an adjustable trunnion solution and
decided to use the Cape-International version. This is: Two bronce bushes
and an excentrical bolt. I have put a picture at
http://www.hm-24.de/trunnion.html and would like to know what you think
about this solution. The mounting is a bit tricky and you need to alter one
of the shock lever arms (grind off the raising lock area). As it will be
quite a while 'till my AH will be back on the road I can not try this
solution instantly.

What are your thoughts on this solution? Anyone using this solution already?

The moving mounting plate is a great idea - but to late for my newly painted
chassis.
It looks like: http://www.hm-24.de/adjustplate.html

Best regards

Martin Germany
BN4 '59

Michael Salter wrote:

> I believe that you are absolutely correct in your conclusion about the
> bushes that you have received.
> The original upper trunnion bushes, and for that matter the lower
> inners, radius arm (BJ8) and some rear spring eye bushes, rely upon the
> compliance of the rubber from which they are made to allow rotation of
> the shaft (bolt) in the middle relative to the housing within which they
> are restrained.
> Because the nylatron or Teflon or whatever these bushes "better" are
> produced is not elastic the shaft (bolt) must rotate within the bush or
> the bush must rotate within the housing; something for which the
> components were not designed. It is for this reason that many people who
> install these bushes end removing them because the suspension "creeks"
> as things rotate.
> A much better system of camber adjustment can be achieved by producing
> some system of moving the front shock absorber away from or toward the
> center of the car. We have achieved this by installing a tapped plate
> inside the original mount box with clearance around the bolt holes.
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.





From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 12:36:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Trunnion bushings





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 10:47:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Trunnion bushings

It appears that with the bronze bush, the ecentric bolt rotates within 
the bush. How do you keep these joints lubed? Or does the bronze just 
wear as time goes by.

Dave Russell
BN2

Martin Heim wrote:
> Hi Michael and listers,
> 
> this is an interesting thread. As I have not the possibility right now to
> measure anything (still the painted chassis + some attached front suspension
> parts) I thought of at least fitting an adjustable trunnion solution and
> decided to use the Cape-International version. This is: Two bronce bushes
> and an excentrical bolt. I have put a picture at
> http://www.hm-24.de/trunnion.html and would like to know what you think
> about this solution. 
> What are your thoughts on this solution? Anyone using this solution already?
> 
> Best regards
> 
> Martin Germany
> BN4 '59





From "Ron Fine Esq." <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 10:06:47 -0800
Subject: Horn parts number





From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 14:44:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Horn parts number

> I am trying to find the part numbers for a High Note and Low Note horn for my
> BN7.  Someone previously gave me this information but it was lost with my hard
> drive crash.  I remember that there was a great web site with a good
> description of how to rebuild these horns also but that was also lost.  Any
> help will be greatly appreciated as always.
> Ron
> 61BN7

High note horn is 3H3059; low note is 3H3060 according to my 3000 parts
book. No information on a web site.

Rick
59 BN4 





From "Martin Heim" <bn4 at onlinehome.de>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 19:27:16 +0100
Subject: Re: Trunnion bushings

shame on me - looking into the parts book and and workshop manual I see your
point. Just trying to be a bit individual. ;-)
(Sidenote: The picture set of David Nock shows the bolts orientation like
mine)

Cheers

Martin

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Trunnion bushings


> Can't help on bushing question, but aren't your A-arm/spring plate
> bolts in upside-down?   Or are mine?   ;)
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M





From "Martin Heim" <bn4 at onlinehome.de>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 19:33:15 +0100
Subject: Re: Trunnion bushings

> It appears that with the bronze bush, the ecentric bolt rotates within
> the bush. How do you keep these joints lubed? Or does the bronze just
> wear as time goes by.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2

Hi Dave,

Right, my concern is also what rotates within what and where is lubrication
needed - but where is lubrication in the standard setup? The bolt is fixed
to the arm, so the steel bushes rotate around the bush or does the rubber
around the steel bushes gets twisted?

Cheers

Martin





From "Martin Heim" <bn4 at onlinehome.de>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 19:53:37 +0100
Subject: Re: Trunnion bushings

I really appreciate your thoughts.

Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com> wrote:

> Although the Cape idea is somewhat more elegant than the eccentrically
> drilled plastic bushes personally I do not like it either, although I
> have not actually examined the components.

The components look really well made, a good fit of the bolt to the bushes.
The bronce bushes are also tapered. I forgot to take a picture.

> IMHO the 2 problems that I see are:
> 1). The bushes are tapered and originally held into the tapered holes in
> the upper trunnion as a function of the tightening of the upper trunnion
> bolt against the tubes inside the original rubber bushes. For the bolt
> to rotate within the bronze bushes there must be end clearance;
> therefore the bolt cannot be used to retain the bushes tightly inside
> the tapers. I would conclude that the bushes will come loose in the
> tapers in the Cape idea.

I understand what you mean. But when I looked at my Qinton-Hazel Kingpin
repair set with the standard rubber bushes they didn't look very trustable,
and as I wanted to have anything adjustable I decided to use the Cape
Version. I will have an eye on the bushes when I will drive. Udo Putzke
wrote to me that I need to set a grease nipple for lubricating the bolt
regularly.

> 2). I don't like the idea of a step in the bolt (which becomes a shaft
> in this application) at the area where the highest stress will arise.
> Shafts like that have a tendency to break.

OK. Point taken. I examinded the bolt before mounting and the steps are with
a radius - that is done properly.

> I don't like the idea of anything in this area in which I do not have
> the utmost confidence. I don't want these things springing to mind as I
> brake for Dead Mans Curve at the bottom of Killer Hill ;-).

Sure.

Cheers

Martin





From AndiGrenouille at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 14:09:56 EST
Subject: BJ7/8 project wanted, Europe/US

Thanks in advance

Andreas (Germany)/BN6





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 12:18:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Trunnion bushings

I believe that the metal inner sleeves get firmly clamped end to end 
between the arms. The bolt is fixed to the arms, the inner sleeves are 
fixed to the arms, the outside of the bushings are fixed to the trunion, 
& the rubber twists. All in all, a very simple, effective, & long life 
arrangement.

This is why the recommendation that a two inch spacer be put between the 
arms & the upper frame before tightening the bolts. It prevents 
preloading the rubber in the wrong twist position.

Dave

Martin Heim wrote:
> Hi Dave,
> 
> Right, my concern is also what rotates within what and where is lubrication
> needed - but where is lubrication in the standard setup? The bolt is fixed
> to the arm, so the steel bushes rotate around the bush or does the rubber
> around the steel bushes gets twisted?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Martin





From "i erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 11:24:22 -0800
Subject: VIRUS WARNING





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 12:52:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Trunnion bushings

I guess it depends on what your definition of trustable is. The rubber 
bushings usually work well for 20 to 30 years. This type of bushing has 
been used successfully on literally millions of cars. Albeit - not race 
cars.

Dave

Martin Heim wrote:
> Hi Michael,

> I understand what you mean. But when I looked at my Qinton-Hazel Kingpin
> repair set with the standard rubber bushes they didn't look very trustable,
> and as I wanted to have anything adjustable I decided to use the Cape
> Version. I will have an eye on the bushes when I will drive. Udo Putzke
> wrote to me that I need to set a grease nipple for lubricating the bolt
> regularly.





From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 20:05:07 -0000
Subject: Re: BJ7/8 project wanted, Europe/US

Kindest regards

Tom
Tom McCay AH 3000 MkIII PH2 BJ8
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk

Now offering quality Sealey tools at discount prices, see
www.ccw-tools.co.uk for further details.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AndiGrenouille@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 7:09 PM
Subject: BJ7/8 project wanted, Europe/US


> Hello Listers,
> BJ7/8 ground up restoration project wanted for a friend, who got infected
> with the Healey Virus.
> Car condition: restorable basket case preferred. Car should be complete.
> Location: Central Europe/UK preferred; reasonable oversea offers will be
> considered, too.
> Please reply offline.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Andreas (Germany)/BN6





From "Fred Anderson" <fandy at mchsi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 14:16:09 -0600
Subject: Transmission Year





From "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 21:45:18 +0100
Subject: Fuel gauge

Thought I understood how the fuel gauge works: I believe it to be a 
voltmeter fed through a variable resistor. Trying to test my 
(professionally rebuilt) fuel gauge on the bench I found:
1. When in normal position without any wires attached, and face vertical 
as when mounted in the dashboard, the needle is against the stopping pin 
close to Empty.
2. When I put 12 V from a battery on the two connections T and B, I 
expected the needle to move to Full. Instead of that, the needle jumped 
from its resting position to Empty.
3. When connecting B direct to the negative battery, T to the resistor 
screw at the sender and earthing the sender housing to battery positive, 
I expected (hoped) the needle to move from E to F and vice versa while 
moving the float by hand.

Nothing like that happens. Whatever I do with the float, the needle 
remains steady at Empty.

When I put an Ohmmeter across the sending unit, the resistance moves 
from 1 Ohm to 82 Ohm when I move the float, so at the looks of it the 
resistor is Okay.

When I put juice on the meter I see a slight movement of the needle, so 
the meter looks okay as well. Moreover it was rebuilt by a well reputed 
UK company.

I'm at a loss. Can anybody tell me what I'm doing wrong?

TIA

Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6





From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 16:19:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Horn parts number

Regarding the part numbers, 
Service Parts Manual AKD1151
High          3H3059 changed to 13H472 Com (C) 13751
Low           3H3060 changed to 3H2449

Lucas Master Catalogue Equipment Specification
High          70071A/F  [Model HF1748]
Low           70063A/F  [Model HF1748]

I believe these part numbers and model were valid from the 100 through the 
BN7-BT7 production and 
changed during the BJ7/8 production.
--Scott Morris



 --- "Ron Fine Esq." <ronfineesq@earthlink.net> wrote: << I am trying to find 
the part numbers for
a High Note and Low Note horn for my BN7.  Someone previously gave me this 
information but it was
lost with my hard drive crash.  I remember that there was a great web site with 
a good description
of how to rebuild these horns also but that was also lost.  Any help will be 
greatly appreciated
as always. Ron 61BN7 >>


=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

______________________________________________________________________ 
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 14:37:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge

Dave Russell

Ph.J.Aeckerlin wrote:
> Listers,
> 
> Thought I understood how the fuel gauge works: I believe it to be a 
> voltmeter fed through a variable resistor. Trying to test my 
> (professionally rebuilt) fuel gauge on the bench I found:
> 1. When in normal position without any wires attached, and face vertical 
> as when mounted in the dashboard, the needle is against the stopping pin 
> close to Empty.
> 2. When I put 12 V from a battery on the two connections T and B, I 
> expected the needle to move to Full. Instead of that, the needle jumped 
> from its resting position to Empty.
> 3. When connecting B direct to the negative battery, T to the resistor 
> screw at the sender and earthing the sender housing to battery positive, 
> I expected (hoped) the needle to move from E to F and vice versa while 
> moving the float by hand.
> 
> Nothing like that happens. Whatever I do with the float, the needle 
> remains steady at Empty.
> 
> When I put an Ohmmeter across the sending unit, the resistance moves 
> from 1 Ohm to 82 Ohm when I move the float, so at the looks of it the 
> resistor is Okay.
> 
> When I put juice on the meter I see a slight movement of the needle, so 
> the meter looks okay as well. Moreover it was rebuilt by a well reputed 
> UK company.
> 
> I'm at a loss. Can anybody tell me what I'm doing wrong?
> 
> TIA
> 
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands





From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 17:36:18 -0500
Subject: Re:Spin on Filter Adapter

Happy Healeying,

Doug
'56 BN2

________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!





From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 15:36:35 -0500
Subject: New diffs

James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II





From linwood rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 18:51:24 -0500
Subject: seat rail wood packing strips





From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 19:07:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Transmission Year

Gearbox 2285 was original to BJ8  HBJ8/27621 (built 9 - 15 June 64).

The closest I can get to the overdrive number is:
22/1709/000560 was original to HBJ8L/26602 (built 10 - 28 April 64)
22/1709/003179 was original to HBJ8L/31639 (built May 65)

Given a couple weeks, I could probably tell you exactly which car your gearbox
came out of.

Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Fred Anderson
  To: healeys@autox.team.net
  Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 3:16 PM
  Subject: Transmission Year


  I bought a top shift transmission ,case number M2292, overdrive number
22/1709
  001448  could someone tell me what year healey it came out of. Fred





From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 19:27:40 -0500
Subject: Re: seat rail wood packing strips

I would guess the small holes are "tooling holes", probably to fit over pegs
to locate a stack of strips correctly so that they can be trimmed to size
and/or the large holes drilled in the same place all at once.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: linwood rose
  To: healey list
  Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 6:51 PM
  Subject: seat rail wood packing strips


  Do the small holes in the strips serve any purpose? I know the 3 larger
  ones are for the seat rail nuts through the floor.
  Lin





From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 20:26:36 -0500
Subject: Re: seat rail wood packing strips


> Hi, Lin -
>
> I would guess the small holes are "tooling holes", probably to fit over
pegs
> to locate a stack of strips correctly so that they can be trimmed to size
> and/or the large holes drilled in the same place all at once.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: linwood rose
>   To: healey list
>   Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 6:51 PM
>   Subject: seat rail wood packing strips
>
>
>   Do the small holes in the strips serve any purpose? I know the 3 larger
>   ones are for the seat rail nuts through the floor.
>   Lin





From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 21:27:08 -0500
Subject: Re: seat rail wood packing strips


> When I disassembled my BT7 there was a metal strip with the same
dimensions
> as the wood packing strip between the wood and the floor board.  Is this
> original or something added by a previous owner?  If original what is the
> strip for?
Larry Swift





From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 23:03:58 -0600
Subject: Re: 6 cyl head porting

current racing philosophy. I opened the ports up so damn wide that they went 
right 
into the pushrod holes.  The head sure flowed a lot of air but the power curve 
was 
real, real high.  I had a full race cam 648, Weber, LCB manifold, light 
flywheel, the works, (for street use). That was ok if you wanted to rev the 
motor to 7000 or more 
which I did daily.  But I was young and crazy then.
   
Then in 1985, Vizard's Tuning BL's A-Series Engine came out.   The head 
grinding paradigm shifted. I ditched my hogged-out head and then picked a head 
out of a boneyard when I was on vacation in England. This head I barely opened 
up and got great results. The Vizard book is still a great reference for anyone

planning on grinding their own head/s. As I recall, Vizard's recommendation 
wasn't to open up the head to the max. but it was to simply open up the long 
side radius, smooth out the corners and reduce valve shrouding. He also 
suggested a D-shaped cut on the outside exhaust ports.  I do not know if the 
latter would apply the the 6-cylinder motor though. However, I would think that

many of the other techniques might be applicable to a 6-cylinder Austin engine 
as well.  Maybe someone else on the list knows if the same porting techniques 
for the four cylinder would be directly applicable for the six. 

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.



Quoting Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>:

> In the 1980's, people used to port Sprite head inlet ports to the point
> where they broke through pushrod holes on race engines with 14:1
> compression, running split webers. Times have moved on - no one does that
> today.
> 
> Whatever you do - DON'T open up the exhaust ports on a 6 cylinder healey
> head. If you want it to have more torque - you could consider putting in a
> SMALLER exhaust valve.....  But don't make the ports bigger.
> 
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html
> 
> Its all about port velocity - not port diameter. If you don't understand the
> difference - then don't touch it. This is really one of those areas where my
> best advice is - if you don't really know what your doing - give the job to
> someone who does. A bad porting job will actually reduce your engines power
> & torque. And it should be done in conjuction with a cam etc.
> 
> If you choose to do it yourself, use an old small dia valve (eg a series) to
> measure roundness; and read the Vizard A series book several times before
> you grind anything.
> 
> 
> Best regards
> Chris
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "healey list"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 2:15 PM
> Subject: Re: 6 cyl head porting
> 
> 
> > Joe.. your right in that there are significant performance gains to be had
> > in lightly porting a head.... BUT and it's a BIG ASS BUTT....  be
> careful...
> > to much is great in the upper RPM range but Very bad for the area under
> the
> > torque curve....
> >
> > Soooooo my advice is trend lightly... it's hard stuff to put back if you
> > port them out to much....  Just make the transitions smoother... clean up
> > the castings and keep it about or just slightly larger then it came to
> > you... don't get greedy.... you really will hurt the over all performance.
> >
> > If you use a carbide bit at all.... make sure it's fine and your light...
> do
> > most your work with tootsie rolls...( sand paper on a stick )  and be Very
> > careful of the the valve seat itself... which should be done after you
> clean
> > them up...
> >
> > Enjoy....
> >
> > Keith
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
> > To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 8:59 PM
> > Subject: 6 cyl head porting
> >
> >
> > > I've heard/read people porting their 6 cylinder heads
> > > to spice 'em up.  From my Peter Burgess MG tuning
> > > book, it says some of the greatest gains for non race
> > > heads are made improving outside radius transitions.
> > >
> > > On my AH head, an area that looks especially easy is
> > > the top half of each intake port near the manifold
> > > face.  It appears the factory used a full dia tool to
> > > size this region but only went in about 1".  Beyond
> > > that, the port very abruptly necks down to the cast
> > > dimension.  I'm thinking about grinding out that
> > > transition to make one continuous arc along the top of
> > > the intake port.  It looks like .080" could removed at
> > > the transition point.  Anyone ever do this before?
> > > Any other areas people first modify?
> > > Thanks for comments,
> > > Joe Mulqueen
> > > '60 BT7
> > > Torrance, CA





from Vizard then wrote his own book and opened shop
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 21:24:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 6 cyl head porting

--- dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> I would agree with what Chris said completely. 
> During the early 80s I worked 
> some heads (12G940 casting I think?) for my 1275 S
> Mini Cooper according to the
> 
> current racing philosophy. I opened the ports up so
> damn wide that they went 
> right 
> into the pushrod holes.  The head sure flowed a lot
> of air but the power curve 
> was 
> real, real high.  I had a full race cam 648, Weber,
> LCB manifold, light 
> flywheel, the works, (for street use). That was ok
> if you wanted to rev the 
> motor to 7000 or more 
> which I did daily.  But I was young and crazy then.
>    
> Then in 1985, Vizard's Tuning BL's A-Series Engine
> came out.   The head 
> grinding paradigm shifted. I ditched my hogged-out
> head and then picked a head 
> out of a boneyard when I was on vacation in England.
> This head I barely opened 
> up and got great results. The Vizard book is still a
> great reference for anyone
> 
> planning on grinding their own head/s. As I recall,
> Vizard's recommendation 
> wasn't to open up the head to the max. but it was to
> simply open up the long 
> side radius, smooth out the corners and reduce valve
> shrouding. He also 
> suggested a D-shaped cut on the outside exhaust
> ports.  I do not know if the 
> latter would apply the the 6-cylinder motor though.
> However, I would think that
> 
> many of the other techniques might be applicable to
> a 6-cylinder Austin engine 
> as well.  Maybe someone else on the list knows if
> the same porting techniques 
> for the four cylinder would be directly applicable
> for the six. 
> 
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
> 
> 
> 
> Quoting Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>:
> 
> > In the 1980's, people used to port Sprite head
> inlet ports to the point
> > where they broke through pushrod holes on race
> engines with 14:1
> > compression, running split webers. Times have
> moved on - no one does that
> > today.
> > 
> > Whatever you do - DON'T open up the exhaust ports
> on a 6 cylinder healey
> > head. If you want it to have more torque - you
> could consider putting in a
> > SMALLER exhaust valve.....  But don't make the
> ports bigger.
> > 
> > http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html
> > 
> > Its all about port velocity - not port diameter.
> If you don't understand the
> > difference - then don't touch it. This is really
> one of those areas where my
> > best advice is - if you don't really know what
> your doing - give the job to
> > someone who does. A bad porting job will actually
> reduce your engines power
> > & torque. And it should be done in conjuction with
> a cam etc.
> > 
> > If you choose to do it yourself, use an old small
> dia valve (eg a series) to
> > measure roundness; and read the Vizard A series
> book several times before
> > you grind anything.
> > 
> > 
> > Best regards
> > Chris
> > 
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> > To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>;
> "healey list"
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 2:15 PM
> > Subject: Re: 6 cyl head porting
> > 
> > 
> > > Joe.. your right in that there are significant
> performance gains to be had
> > > in lightly porting a head.... BUT and it's a BIG
> ASS BUTT....  be
> > careful...
> > > to much is great in the upper RPM range but Very
> bad for the area under
> > the
> > > torque curve....
> > >
> > > Soooooo my advice is trend lightly... it's hard
> stuff to put back if you
> > > port them out to much....  Just make the
> transitions smoother... clean up
> > > the castings and keep it about or just slightly
> larger then it came to
> > > you... don't get greedy.... you really will hurt
> the over all performance.
> > >
> > > If you use a carbide bit at all.... make sure
> it's fine and your light...
> > do
> > > most your work with tootsie rolls...( sand paper
> on a stick )  and be Very
> > > careful of the the valve seat itself... which
> should be done after you
> > clean
> > > them up...
> > >
> > > Enjoy....
> > >
> > > Keith
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
> > > To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 8:59 PM
> > > Subject: 6 cyl head porting
> > >
> > >
> > > > I've heard/read people porting their 6
> cylinder heads
> > > > to spice 'em up.  From my Peter Burgess MG
> tuning
> > > > book, it says some of the greatest gains for
> non race
> > > > heads are made improving outside radius
> transitions.
> > > >
> > > > On my AH head, an area that looks especially
> easy is
> > > > the top half of each intake port near the
> manifold
> > > > face.  It appears the factory used a full dia
> tool to
> > > > size this region but only went in about 1". 
> Beyond
> > > > that, the port very abruptly necks down to the
> cast
> > > > dimension.  I'm thinking about grinding out
> that
> > > > transition to make one continuous arc along
> the top of
> > > > the intake port.  It looks like .080" could
> removed at
> > > > the transition point.  Anyone ever do this
> before?
> > > > Any other areas people first modify?
> > > > Thanks for comments,
> > > > Joe Mulqueen
> > > > '60 BT7
> > > > Torrance, CA
> 
> 



__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam





From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:18:33 EST
Subject: Re: 6 cyl head porting

If not using a higher-lift/longer-duration cam I would not recommend opening
the input ports much at all, specially a 100 Six. They really need the
velocity and opening the intake will kill that.

Rick San Diego

In a message dated 3/14/04 9:26:59 PM, joemulqueen@yahoo.com writes:


> Hey!
> Can't I get any positive nods?  My original post was
> about the long side radius!
> Re the "hot rodders", Peter Burgess's MGB power tuning
> book came out in 1996.  He probably got alot of ideas
> from Vizard then wrote his own book and opened shop
> specializing in the bigger engine.
> http://www.mgcars.org.uk/peterburgess/
> Regards,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7





From =?iso-8859-1?q?Paul=20Baker?= <paulbaker51 at yahoo.co.uk>
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 11:26:01 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re: Trunnion bushings


Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
Martin,

I guess it depends on what your definition of trustable is. The rubber 
bushings usually work well for 20 to 30 years. This type of bushing has 
been used successfully on literally millions of cars. Albeit - not race 
cars.

Dave

Martin Heim wrote:
> Hi Michael,

> I understand what you mean. But when I looked at my Qinton-Hazel Kingpin
> repair set with the standard rubber bushes they didn't look very trustable,
> and as I wanted to have anything adjustable I decided to use the Cape
> Version. I will have an eye on the bushes when I will drive. Udo Putzke
> wrote to me that I need to set a grease nipple for lubricating the bolt
> regularly.

                
---------------------------------
  Yahoo! Messenger - Communicate instantly..."Ping" your friends today! 
Download Messenger Now





From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 06:49:17 -0500
Subject: Re: advice on painting BJ8 and engine detail cost estimate

-Body tub media blast and zinc chromate primer=    $240.

-Shroud repair and chassis final painting            =      $2200.
( repair flanges, smooth ,and prime shrouds
and paint chassis)

 - Panel prep and paint car                                   = $3000-4000.

- Loving , tolerant wife                                        =
Priceless


----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Browning" <gbrowning@carolina.rr.com>
To: "Healeys healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 7:38 AM
Subject: advice on painting BJ8 and engine detail cost estimate


> Hello everyone:
> I need advice on
>
> 1. a fair and reasonable price for painting (bare metal) BJ8, (assuming
very
> little bondo finishing), taking panels off to paint
>
> 2. engine cpt detail,
>
> 3. wiring harnesses replaced when doing engine cpt detail
>
> also a fair price for BJ8 engine rebuild
>
> a lot of variables here but am looking for ballpark close estimate of time
> needed and $ needed
>
> many thanks for you help
>
> Bill Browning
> Charlotte, N. C.





From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 23:21:47 +1100
Subject: Re: Trunnion bushings

I have the very short Wolseley arms, and the Denis Welch nylon eccentric
trunnion bushes. I set it up on a sympathetic tyre guy's machine about 3.5
years ago - 2.75 degrees negative camber - mate - it looks like the wheels
are about to fall off!!! Its the meanest looking healey with numberplates
you've ever seen from the front!!!!

And the camber was still exactly the same (side to side) , last check, which
was late last year.

Humour me you American/Canadian  guys. Don't fit eccentric bushes to adjust
your camber. Instead, just get a white 'liquid paper' corrector pen. Tighten
your trunion bush to spec - and mark the bush with a 'cross' - across the
'bolt head - bush - car chassis'.

Then do your darndest. Drive it like its stolen. Then check & see if
anything moved...

HOWEVER - if you think that you are going to compete in any of the mooted
"Aussie Invasion' All Healey races being proposed next year- then I have
several additional recommendations.....

:)
Firstly - I'd recommend that you also don't replace your rubber bushes for
at least the next 2 years or so.  I'd also seriously recommend that you do
adjust your camber to seriously positive - and increase your to toe in by -
oh - lets say several inches - maybe a foot or 2  (on really competitive
race cars) and slighly less on slower cars.
:)

And hey Mike - your car will be competitive enough - so you don't need any
more camber anyway!!!!

Seriously  -  The trunion bush wont ever move. It really doesn't matter if
its round - or if its eccentric. It doesn't move inside the trunion, the
greased bolt rotates like a pin - it doesn't rotate due to the keyed D
end..... when using the eccentric trunion bush and std trunions/ pins.

Seriously - just check it - mark up the old ones & drive it around. Loosen
them off a fraction - I did before I went down this path!!

Trick is - if you don't grease the outside of the tapered bush; and you
tighten the bolt to spec - why would anything ever move any more with an
eccentric bush, tan it would with a 'std' one?????.

But hey - those adjustable top towers - I don't trust them not to move!!!!
They move the roll centre......

:)

Chris
PS Just joking  from : ) to :) with the toe in advice............

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Martin Heim'" <bn4@onlinehome.de>; "'Healey list'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 4:36 AM
Subject: RE: Trunnion bushings


> Hi Martin,
> Although the Cape idea is somewhat more elegant than the eccentrically
> drilled plastic bushes personally I do not like it either, although I
> have not actually examined the components.
> IMHO the 2 problems that I see are:
> 1). The bushes are tapered and originally held into the tapered holes in
> the upper trunnion as a function of the tightening of the upper trunnion
> bolt against the tubes inside the original rubber bushes. For the bolt
> to rotate within the bronze bushes there must be end clearance;
> therefore the bolt cannot be used to retain the bushes tightly inside
> the tapers. I would conclude that the bushes will come loose in the
> tapers in the Cape idea.
> 2). I don't like the idea of a step in the bolt (which becomes a shaft
> in this application) at the area where the highest stress will arise.
> Shafts like that have a tendency to break.
> I don't like the idea of anything in this area in which I do not have
> the utmost confidence. I don't want these things springing to mind as I
> brake for Dead Mans Curve at the bottom of Killer Hill ;-).
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Martin Heim
> Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 11:37 AM
> To: Healey list
> Subject: Re: Trunnion bushings
>
> Hi Michael and listers,
>
> this is an interesting thread. As I have not the possibility right now
> to
> measure anything (still the painted chassis + some attached front
> suspension
> parts) I thought of at least fitting an adjustable trunnion solution and
> decided to use the Cape-International version. This is: Two bronce
> bushes
> and an excentrical bolt. I have put a picture at
> http://www.hm-24.de/trunnion.html and would like to know what you think
> about this solution. The mounting is a bit tricky and you need to alter
> one
> of the shock lever arms (grind off the raising lock area). As it will be
> quite a while 'till my AH will be back on the road I can not try this
> solution instantly.
>
> What are your thoughts on this solution? Anyone using this solution
> already?
>
> The moving mounting plate is a great idea - but to late for my newly
> painted
> chassis.
> It looks like: http://www.hm-24.de/adjustplate.html
>
> Best regards
>
> Martin Germany
> BN4 '59
>
> Michael Salter wrote:
>
> > I believe that you are absolutely correct in your conclusion about the
> > bushes that you have received.
> > The original upper trunnion bushes, and for that matter the lower
> > inners, radius arm (BJ8) and some rear spring eye bushes, rely upon
> the
> > compliance of the rubber from which they are made to allow rotation of
> > the shaft (bolt) in the middle relative to the housing within which
> they
> > are restrained.
> > Because the nylatron or Teflon or whatever these bushes "better" are
> > produced is not elastic the shaft (bolt) must rotate within the bush
> or
> > the bush must rotate within the housing; something for which the
> > components were not designed. It is for this reason that many people
> who
> > install these bushes end removing them because the suspension "creeks"
> > as things rotate.
> > A much better system of camber adjustment can be achieved by producing
> > some system of moving the front shock absorber away from or toward the
> > center of the car. We have achieved this by installing a tapped plate
> > inside the original mount box with clearance around the bolt holes.
> > Michael Salter





From John Peak <redbn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 07:04:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healeys in SE Florida

I have recently moved from the Seattle, WA area to
southeast Florida (Not far from West Palm Beach).  In
the two weeks I have been here I have seen three
Healeys on the road, including a lovely white over
black 100 in Delray on Saturday (Anyone on the list?).
 What I haven't found is a local Healey club.  If one
exists here I would appreciate any contact info. 
Also, If anyone is in the area and would like to get
together for a little cruising and/or car talk, please
contact me via e-mail or phone at 561-968-0744.

Unlike Seattle, just about every day is a Healey
driving day here.  I do miss the twisty mountain roads
though.  Oh well, you make your choices and live with
the consequences I guess.  See you on the road!

John
'59 BN7

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam





From N5572B at aol.com
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 10:20:04 EST
Subject: Re: advice on painting BJ8 and engine detail cost estimate





From SGLASE at aol.com
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 12:09:26 EST
Subject: BN4 for sale in NY area

    BN4 parts/project car.  Its pretty rough, rusty floors and 1/4 panels.  
Has a BJ8 motor and side shirt trans.  Missing one rear fender and seats and 
Carbs.  Motor turns freely.  Front and rear shrouds O.K. no title.  Also have 
another modified BN4 that goes with it.  This second BN4 has a V-8 in it and 
disk brakes on the front end. Also pretty rough.   Asking $2000  Call 
201-310-2215  or E-mail sglase@aol.com  Can send JPEGs





From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 09:45:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Healeys in SE Florida

Sorry to hear you've left the Great NorthWest. Enjoy those sunny days and
send some out west!

>From the Austin-Healey Club USA links page http://www.healey.org/links.shtml
I find the Pensacola Austin-Healey Club website at
http://411club.com/411c/CGI-BIN/visit_club.cfm?vclub_id=196&b1=Go%21

Yes, the URL is correct.

I don't know my Florida cities, but that could be a place to start.

I also see that you're a member of the AHCUSA. Use your 2003 Resource Book
to find AHCUSA members in the Florida area. Many times, members of national
clubs are also members of a local club or two.

Hope that's helpful.

Brad Weldon
55 BN1
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Peak" <redbn7@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 7:04 AM
Subject: Healeys in SE Florida


> Healey Folks,
>
> I have recently moved from the Seattle, WA area to
> southeast Florida (Not far from West Palm Beach).  In
> the two weeks I have been here I have seen three
> Healeys on the road, including a lovely white over
> black 100 in Delray on Saturday (Anyone on the list?).
>  What I haven't found is a local Healey club.  If one
> exists here I would appreciate any contact info.
> Also, If anyone is in the area and would like to get
> together for a little cruising and/or car talk, please
> contact me via e-mail or phone at 561-968-0744.
>
> Unlike Seattle, just about every day is a Healey
> driving day here.  I do miss the twisty mountain roads
> though.  Oh well, you make your choices and live with
> the consequences I guess.  See you on the road!
>
> John
> '59 BN7





From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 13:38:16 EST
Subject: Re: BN4 for sale in NY area





From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 11:47:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust - downpipes

First time I had it welded.  Second time I replaced
the entire system, now third time I am back to
rewelding the new system   Is this a common occurance
or just me?

Dean 

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam





From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 15:20:55 EST
Subject: Re: Abarth exhaust - downpipes

There were a few years here in CA when flex pipe was no longer available at
parts stores because people could use it to bypass catalytic converters.
During
that time I used muffler bandages.

The most recent tool I've used is the stainless steel plumbing couplers
available at many places. Mine came from Home Depot. I throw away the rubber
and
just use the metal clamp. Right now the car has new flex pipe attached at each
end with these couplers. Minimal leakage and a fix at will setup with no
welding needed. I believe this setup has allowed me to keep my Monza system
going
for ten years this spring. I drive hard and about 5000 miles a year.

See the clamp installed here:
http://members.cox.net/wilko2/fender/exhaustclamp.jpg

Rick
San Diego

In a message dated 3/15/04 11:50:25 AM, healeybn7@yahoo.com writes:


> All this talk about exhaust systems has infected by
> BN7 and now the forward downpipe is leaking where it
> is welded to the flex pipe.  This is the third time
> this has happened. 
>
> First time I had it welded.  Second time I replaced
> the entire system, now third time I am back to
> rewelding the new system   Is this a common occurance
> or just me?





From Jnhorn at aol.com
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>;
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 16:47:56 EST
Subject: Horns





From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 17:47:20 -0500
Subject: Horns

Does anyone know if a 1963 BJ7 only should have one horn? I'm restoring
one 
and there is only one horn presently with no holes in the panel for a
second 
horn.
Jon Einhorn
BJ8 (2)
BJ7





From "austrheamgafun" <austrheamgafun at mail.arczip.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 15:31:07 -0700
Subject: Re: BN4 for sale in NY area

Just curious, is there a database available somewhere that includes all of 
these numbers listed where other BN4 owners could have access to? 

Thanks,

Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
'57 100-6   


---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: CAWS52803@aol.com
Reply-To: CAWS52803@aol.com
Date:  Mon, 15 Mar 2004 13:38:16 EST

>I wonder if you would please send me the VIN from both of the BN4s?  I 
>maintain the 100/Six Registry and would like to include these in it.  The 
>condition 
>is not as important as finding as many of these cars as possible.
>Thanks,
>Rudy Streng
>Lenoir, NC 
>1957 BN4





From <INSPTWO at msn.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 17:50:08 -0500
Subject: models





From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 17:57:14 EST
Subject: Re: Horns

There should be two, though for a fellow with your name (ein horn=one horn) 
perhaps an exception should be made?

Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans





From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:03:44 EST
Subject: 1963 bj7

i have decided to sell my car. it is a 63 bj7. it is mostly done as many of 
you know. there are photos at justbrits.com. follow the links to mitchs bj7. 
anybody interested or know anybody who is please contact me at 516-445-4767 or 
at appraise11@aol.com

thanks mitch





From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:35:00 -0500
Subject: Grose Jet installation question

I am getting big leaks out of the air cleaners. Does the Grose jet type of
valve require more force to close them is provided by the 7/16" gap specified
as the spacing for the fork lever?

Any help on the Grose jet installation and proper operation would be
appreciated.


Sincerely


Rick Neves
'56 BN-2



_._





From JBHawkes at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 19:26:54 EST
Subject: Re: Healeys in SE Florida

I'm have a house in Jupiter, just north of West Palm Beach, with a white and 
red (cove) 100M in the garage and that you will see around town from time to 
time if you are in the Jupiter area.  To the best of my knowledge (and I have 
spent some time looking), there is no Healey group in this part of FL.  The 
closest thing is the Gold Coast Triumph and British Car Club.  As the name 
suggests, there is a particular focus on Triumphs, but also LBC's in general.  
You 
can check them out at www.goldcoastbritcar.org.  They do sponsor some drive-in 
brunches and the like in the general area of WPB.  They also sponsor a British 
car show in the spring each year.  They didn't have it in 2004 but I believe 
will be back in business next year.  

I'm back up north (Boston) just in time for the next snow storm but will be 
thinking of last week's drive down Military Trail in the M.

With serious sun envy,  

Jim Hawkes
100M in FL
100M in MA
BJ8 in MA





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 17:33:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Grose Jet installation question

There's nothing special about the installation of
grose jets (your float levers are installed,
correct?).  If it is leaking out of your carbs it
sounds like the balls are jammed open.

Take the float chamber cover off and see if the balls
are jammed open (i.e. in the down position).  If they
are sticky and stuck in this position, there is only
one way to fix it -

1) Unscrew the Gross Jets
2) Go to your open garage door
3) Chuck them as far as you possibly can into the
forest
4) Replace them with old fashioned SU float jets.

Some grose jets work fantastically (esp. ones made
before 1995), others (new ones) typically don't work
at all.  If they don't work there's nothing you can do
about it.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8


--- Rick &7& Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
wrote:
> I just installed a set of grose jets on my BN-2 (SU
> H-type carbs)
> 
> I am getting big leaks out of the air cleaners. Does
> the Grose jet type of
> valve require more force to close them is provided
> by the 7/16" gap specified
> as the spacing for the fork lever?
> 
> Any help on the Grose jet installation and proper
> operation would be
> appreciated.
> 
> 
> Sincerely
> 
> 
> Rick Neves
> '56 BN-2





From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:19:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: advice on painting BJ8 and engine detail cost estimate

Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 06:49:17 -0500
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Subject: Re: advice on painting BJ8 and engine detail
cost estimate

- -Chassis rust repair (Parts,Labor)                  
    =   $3000.

- -Body tub media blast and zinc chromate primer=    $240................

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 19:36:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Grose Jet installation question

I agree.

Dave

Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Rick -
> 
> There's nothing special about the installation of
> grose jets (your float levers are installed,
> correct?).  If it is leaking out of your carbs it
> sounds like the balls are jammed open.
> 
> Take the float chamber cover off and see if the balls
> are jammed open (i.e. in the down position).  If they
> are sticky and stuck in this position, there is only
> one way to fix it -
> 
> 1) Unscrew the Gross Jets
> 2) Go to your open garage door
> 3) Chuck them as far as you possibly can into the
> forest
> 4) Replace them with old fashioned SU float jets.
> 
> Some grose jets work fantastically (esp. ones made
> before 1995), others (new ones) typically don't work
> at all.  If they don't work there's nothing you can do
> about it.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Alan





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:49:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Non-Healey question for Americans on the list

If you have a good friend or a relative who is in the
US Senate, I'd like to ask for your help or advice if
possible.

Many thanks,

Alan Seigrist





From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at verizon.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 22:30:45 -0500
Subject: Healey Surgeons Fax connection

    For those who do not deal with them - carry on!

                                                                             
           CB





From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 23:07:07 -0500
Subject: RE: Horns

Mine has only one, mounted on the brace which holds the right side
of the front shroud in place about midway back in the engine compartment.
No trace of holes anywhere for a second horn.  (My car had extensive body
work done by the previous owner, so all bets are off as far as originality
is concerned.)

Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jnhorn@aol.com
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 4:48 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Horns


Does anyone know if a 1963 BJ7 only should have one horn? I'm restoring one
and there is only one horn presently with no holes in the panel for a second
horn.
Jon Einhorn
BJ8 (2)
BJ7





from florida) has always vibrated at about 55-65mph.  i knew the bearings were
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 20:56:21 -0800
Subject: old shakey





From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 21:01:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Well. Not Healey Related, but British...

>From the exterior, other than being dirty, it was
pristine. Not a single door ding. Perfect
copper/champagne paint. Convertible top was in good
condition. Slight wearing on the beading near the to
of the drivers window. Interior was adequate. Driver's
seat was worn, all else looked ok. 

Engine (V12)looked complete - no tell tale signs that
the took something apart then couldn't get it running.
Battery was missing. 

So, what to do. The police had it towed to an impound
lot. I could probably get it once it clears a 30 day
lean by paying the impound fees. How would I know if
it ran, or what was wrong with it in the first
place... Must have been bad enough to run away from.

I do find it kind of funny, that in a neighborhood of
million dollar homes, some one drops off a XJS, just
like they would abandon an old Ford in a trailer
park... Human behavior is consistent, I guess it is
all a matter of perspective. 

I could use a 100S (maybe next weekend?). 

Dean BN7

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam





From "Lynn and Jean Neff" <lynnandjean at warpnet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 23:18:05 -0600
Subject: Sighting / Naples, FL

LN
BT7





From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 22:22:54 -0700
Subject: lamps





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 22:49:31 -0700
Subject: Re: old shakey

Yes, drum balance can be a problem. See this info from Hendrix Wire Wheel.
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/drums.html

I don't know if you can find anyone locally to do it. I know that 
Hendrix will do it.   You can get a pretty good idea how bad things are 
by measuring the wall thickness as noted, to see how far things are off 
center.

The Whitworth sizes are the bolt shank diameter.  A 1/2 W wrench fits 
the head on a 1/2" bolt shank on which the head  is about .925" across 
the flats.

Dave Russell
BN2



James Shope wrote:
> guys, i need some help again. a bj8 in our car club(the one bought on ebay
> from florida) has always vibrated at about 55-65mph.    took off left
> brake drum and stopped some of the vibration. took off right drum and all
> vibration stopped. it looks like the drums are slightly out of round, but
> don't know if that could cause the problem.  also don't know lif vibration is
> still there, but is not perceptible without the mass of the drum to spin.  i
> have read where some of you guys have had brake drums balanced.  did it help?
> how is it done?  what is the cost?  where can it be sent if not done locally?

> it, but would be nice to know what the number sequence means.  it certainly is
> different from what i am used to.  healeymanjim.   





From "Lynda Lawrence" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 23:04:09 -0700
Subject: Re: old shakey

Whitworth/BSF wrenches are numbered by the bolt shank size, while 
UNF/USS wrenches are numbered by the size of the bolt head across the 
flats.

A whitworth or BSF bolt with a 3/8" shank will require a 3/8"W wrench. 
A UNF or USS bolt with a 3/8" shank will require a 9/16" wrench.
These bolts will have slightly differently sized bolt heads (the W or 
BSF is larger), thus the need for two different wrench sets. Of course 
then there is metric...

Bill (constantly scratching my head) Lawrence

On Mar 15, 2004, at 9:56 PM, James Shope wrote:

> guys, i need some help again. a bj8 in our car club(the one bought on 
> ebay
> from florida) has always vibrated at about 55-65mph.  i knew the 
> bearings were
> bad and figured that new hubs, bearings, seals, wire wheels and 
> knockoffs
> would cure the problem.  WRONG!!!!  actually got worse.  rechecked 
> balance,
> reseated rear hubs, swapped tires around to no avail.  it seem to come 
> from
> the rear so i check out driveline and u-joints. everything was tight, 
> so put
> rear on jackstands and ran up speed to about 55-60.  shook pretty 
> good, so
> took off wheels. still shook the same.  took off hubs. samo.  took off 
> left
> brake drum and stopped some of the vibration. took off right drum and 
> all
> vibration stopped. it looks like the drums are slightly out of round, 
> but
> don't know if that could cause the problem.  also don't know lif 
> vibration is
> still there, but is not perceptible without the mass of the drum to 
> spin.  i
> have read where some of you guys have had brake drums balanced.  did 
> it help?
> how is it done?  what is the cost?  where can it be sent if not done 
> locally?
> could it be driveline and/or u-joints even if i do not see any out of 
> round
> movement?   any and all help will be appreciated.  we have a big rally 
> this
> weekend and the owners want to participate without being towed in.   
> also, i
> finally got a set of whitworth sockets since i work on bn2 occaionally 
> and i
> have no clue on how they are numbered.  i just find the one that fits 
> and use
> it, but would be nice to know what the number sequence means.  it 
> certainly is
> different from what i am used to.  healeymanjim.   PS.  anyone who has 
> ever
> flown in a C-124 knows what "old shakey" really means.





From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 22:28:19 -0800
Subject: help asked for. help received. 

unbelievable but I have had 5 different people volunteer for the job,
no one asked to be compensated,
and all where beyond just being helpful.

I will rendezvous with it a few miles from my house on Saturday.
this list is great. Thanks to all and especially Terry.
Ron Rader
Playa del Rey, CA
1965 BJ8





From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 00:12:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Grose Jet installation question

Every car I have put the grose jets on it has been a one time install and
never a leak again.
Maybe there are bad sets out there, but a good set is better than what came
on the cars stock in my opinion.

Take the top of the float chamber off, make sure everything is moving
freely, put some hose on the gas line in push the float up and see if you
can blow through the gas line in.  You shouldn't be able to, but if you can
may be easier to diagnose the problem with the parts out in front of you.
If you can't get the grose jets to stop flow maybe they are bad, return them
for another set.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Cc: "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>; "Healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: Grose Jet installation question


> Alan,
>
> I agree.
>
> Dave
>
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
> > Rick -
> >
> > There's nothing special about the installation of
> > grose jets (your float levers are installed,
> > correct?).  If it is leaking out of your carbs it
> > sounds like the balls are jammed open.
> >
> > Take the float chamber cover off and see if the balls
> > are jammed open (i.e. in the down position).  If they
> > are sticky and stuck in this position, there is only
> > one way to fix it -
> >
> > 1) Unscrew the Gross Jets
> > 2) Go to your open garage door
> > 3) Chuck them as far as you possibly can into the
> > forest
> > 4) Replace them with old fashioned SU float jets.
> >
> > Some grose jets work fantastically (esp. ones made
> > before 1995), others (new ones) typically don't work
> > at all.  If they don't work there's nothing you can do
> > about it.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Alan





From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 04:39:43 -0600
Subject: Re: lamps





From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at cyg.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 07:39:26 -0500
Subject: lamps


> List.
> I have an early 65 bj8 with single front turn indicators.  Car came
unrunning
> with a single filiment bulb in one side with straight across tangs on one
side
> and a double filiment bulb with off set tangs on the other.
> which is correct?
> Sid





From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 07:45:35 -0500
Subject: RE: lamps

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Sid Bronson
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 12:23 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: lamps

List.
I have an early 65 bj8 with single front turn indicators.  Car came
unrunning
with a single filiment bulb in one side with straight across tangs on
one side
and a double filiment bulb with off set tangs on the other.
which is correct?
Sid





From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 07:12:59 -0700
Subject: Re: old shakey

Dave
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'62 BT7 MK II,  '54 BN1,  '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Shope" <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 9:56 PM
Subject: old shakey


> guys, i need some help again. a bj8 in our car club(the one bought on ebay
> from florida) has always vibrated at about 55-65mph.  i knew the bearings
were
> bad and figured that new hubs, bearings, seals, wire wheels and knockoffs
> would cure the problem.  WRONG!!!!  actually got worse.  rechecked
balance,
> reseated rear hubs, swapped tires around to no avail.  it seem to come
from
> the rear so i check out driveline and u-joints. everything was tight, so
put
> rear on jackstands and ran up speed to about 55-60.  shook pretty good, so
> took off wheels. still shook the same.  took off hubs. samo.  took off
left
> brake drum and stopped some of the vibration. took off right drum and all
> vibration stopped. it looks like the drums are slightly out of round, but
> don't know if that could cause the problem.  also don't know lif vibration
is
> still there, but is not perceptible without the mass of the drum to spin.
i
> have read where some of you guys have had brake drums balanced.  did it
help?
> how is it done?  what is the cost?  where can it be sent if not done
locally?
> could it be driveline and/or u-joints even if i do not see any out of
round
> movement?   any and all help will be appreciated.  we have a big rally
this
> weekend and the owners want to participate without being towed in.   also,
i
> finally got a set of whitworth sockets since i work on bn2 occaionally and
i
> have no clue on how they are numbered.  i just find the one that fits and
use
> it, but would be nice to know what the number sequence means.  it
certainly is
> different from what i am used to.  healeymanjim.   PS.  anyone who has
ever
> flown in a C-124 knows what "old shakey" really means.





From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 09:27:46 -0500
Subject: Re: old shakey

James Shope wrote:

>guys, i need some help again. a bj8 in our car club(the one bought on ebay
>from florida) has always vibrated at about 55-65mph.  i knew the bearings were
>bad and figured that new hubs, bearings, seals, wire wheels and knockoffs
>would cure the problem.  WRONG!!!!  actually got worse.  rechecked balance,
>reseated rear hubs, swapped tires around to no avail.  it seem to come from
>the rear so i check out driveline and u-joints. everything was tight, so put
>rear on jackstands and ran up speed to about 55-60.  shook pretty good, so
>took off wheels. still shook the same.  took off hubs. samo.  took off left
>brake drum and stopped some of the vibration. took off right drum and all
>vibration stopped. it looks like the drums are slightly out of round, but
>don't know if that could cause the problem.  also don't know lif vibration is
>still there, but is not perceptible without the mass of the drum to spin.  i
>have read where some of you guys have had brake drums balanced.  did it help?
>how is it done?  what is the cost?  where can it be sent if not done locally?
>could it be driveline and/or u-joints even if i do not see any out of round
>movement?   any and all help will be appreciated.  we have a big rally this
>weekend and the owners want to participate without being towed in.   also, i
>finally got a set of whitworth sockets since i work on bn2 occaionally and i
>have no clue on how they are numbered.  i just find the one that fits and use
>it, but would be nice to know what the number sequence means.  it certainly is
>different from what i am used to.  healeymanjim.   PS.  anyone who has ever
>flown in a C-124 knows what "old shakey" really means.





From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 08:31:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Well. Not Healey Related, but British...

Sounds like someone decided that instead of junking the car they dropped it
off in the neighborhood that it might find a caretaker. If you have the
money, go for it. I would believe that there is something wrong with a very
expensive engine. Just a guess.

Alan
HBJ8L/34297
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 11:01 PM
Subject: Well. Not Healey Related, but British...
>
> I do find it kind of funny, that in a neighborhood of
> million dollar homes, some one drops off a XJS, just
> like they would abandon an old Ford in a trailer
> park... Human behavior is consistent, I guess it is
> all a matter of perspective.
>
> I could use a 100S (maybe next weekend?).





From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 09:48:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Well. Not Healey Related, but British...





From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 09:55:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Well. Not Healey Related, but British...


Hmmmm,
Possible other situation: nasty divorce, if I can't have it she aint gonna
get it. I'll drop it off in a wealthy neighbourhood in the hopes that
someone will find it, take it in and give it a good home.
I've heard of stranger things happening!
Rich C.





From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 08:57:28 -0600
Subject: Well. Not Healey Related, but British...


> Last weekend someone left an 88 XJS Convertible in
> front of our house. No license plates, no registration
> and a short tow rope. We called the local police.
> After running the VIN, they determined that it was in
> fact abandoned. Cops made a quick check for Jimmy
> Hoffa, and then let me give it the once over. 
> 
> From the exterior, other than being dirty, it was
> pristine. Not a single door ding. Perfect
> copper/champagne paint. Convertible top was in good
> condition. Slight wearing on the beading near the to
> of the drivers window. Interior was adequate. Driver's
> seat was worn, all else looked ok. 
> 
> Engine (V12)looked complete - no tell tale signs that
> the took something apart then couldn't get it running.
> Battery was missing. 
> 
> So, what to do. The police had it towed to an impound
> lot. I could probably get it once it clears a 30 day
> lean by paying the impound fees. How would I know if
> it ran, or what was wrong with it in the first
> place... Must have been bad enough to run away from.
> 
> I do find it kind of funny, that in a neighborhood of
> million dollar homes, some one drops off a XJS, just
> like they would abandon an old Ford in a trailer
> park... Human behavior is consistent, I guess it is
> all a matter of perspective. 
> 
> I could use a 100S (maybe next weekend?). 
> 
> Dean BN7





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 10:11:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Grose Jet installation question

You m,ay be correct on the new ones, but not the "old" ones.

tom


> [Original Message]
> From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
> To: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> Cc: Rick &7& Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>; Healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/15/04 9:42:46 PM
> Subject: Re: Grose Jet installation question
>
> Alan,
>
> I agree.
>
> Dave
>
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
> > Rick -
> > 
> > There's nothing special about the installation of
> > grose jets (your float levers are installed,
> > correct?).  If it is leaking out of your carbs it
> > sounds like the balls are jammed open.
> > 
> > Take the float chamber cover off and see if the balls
> > are jammed open (i.e. in the down position).  If they
> > are sticky and stuck in this position, there is only
> > one way to fix it -
> > 
> > 1) Unscrew the Gross Jets
> > 2) Go to your open garage door
> > 3) Chuck them as far as you possibly can into the
> > forest
> > 4) Replace them with old fashioned SU float jets.
> > 
> > Some grose jets work fantastically (esp. ones made
> > before 1995), others (new ones) typically don't work
> > at all.  If they don't work there's nothing you can do
> > about it.
> > 
> > Regards,
> > 
> > Alan





From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 10:30:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Well. Not Healey Related, but British...

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>; "healey (E-mail)"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: Well. Not Healey Related, but British...


| > I do find it kind of funny, that in a neighborhood of
| > million dollar homes, some one drops off a XJS, just
| > like they would abandon an old Ford in a trailer
| > park... Human behavior is consistent, I guess it is
| > all a matter of perspective.
|
|
| Hmmmm,
| Possible other situation: nasty divorce, if I can't have it she aint gonna
| get it. I'll drop it off in a wealthy neighbourhood in the hopes that
| someone will find it, take it in and give it a good home.
| I've heard of stranger things happening!
| Rich C.





From <INSPTWO at msn.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 10:51:45 -0500
Subject: horns

Bill
BJ7





From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 11:41:38 -0500
Subject: Heater

I do not find that any of the customary suppliers provide such a seal.

Any ideas on what to use?  How about a gasket made from an inner tube?

Thanks,

Larry Swift





From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 11:07:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Heater

I normally don't get involved in this sorta question but I was amazed at the
things I found at one of these places by me.... My guy is Tri-state
industrial rubber in Dothan Alabama... and he's got all sorts of neat
toys... to include industrial air line and such.... much better then the
crap we are forced to consume from Lowes or Home depot.

Keith Turk
----- 





From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 09:28:39 -0800
Subject: Re: advice on painting BJ8 and engine detail cost estimate

John Snyder



> Like everything else in CA, body/paint prices are much
> higher here.  Any type etching primer will cost nearly
> that much.  The body blast will also cost more.
> 2 yrs ago, after finding someone who'd do my bare
> chassis in LA, the rotisserie mount, sand blast,
> cutting and welding to repair some minor "blow
> through", priming and then single stage urethane color
> cost $3500.  The material cost (I supplied stuff
> bought in a less stringent area) was $450.  If I had
> the space, I would have done it myself on sawhorses...
> Regards,
> JoeM
> (who can do all the mechanicals but is at the mercy of
> the body & paint guys)
> '60 BT7
>
> Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 06:49:17 -0500
> From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
> <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> Subject: Re: advice on painting BJ8 and engine detail
> cost estimate
>
> - -Chassis rust repair (Parts,Labor)
>     =   $3000.
>
> - -Body tub media blast and zinc chromate primer=    $240................





From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 09:33:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Heater

John Snyder



> The heater box on my AH3000 has a 1.25" by 8" rectangular opening that
mates to the air/heat distribution box built in to the chassis.  There is
some
> residue/remains of a gasket or seal around the heater opening, but I'm not
> sure what it is. I do not find that any of the customary suppliers provide
such a seal. Any ideas on what to use?  How about a gasket made from an
inner tube?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry Swift





From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 10:15:42 -0800
Subject: Internet Phone, not necessarily Healey related, yet it could be

Check out www.skype.com for free internet phone software.  It's an alternate
communication method using voice over IP (VOIP), and it's free.

Happy Healeying with VOIP

Cheers,

Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610









CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail transmission, and any documents, files 
or previous e-mail messages attached to it, may contain information that is 
confidential and/or legally privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, 
or a person responsible for delivering it to the intended recipient, please DO 
NOT disclose the contents to another person, store or copy the information in 
any medium, or use any of the information contained in or attached to this 
transmission for any purpose. If you have received this transmission in error, 
please immediately notify the sender by reply email or at 
mailto:privacy@plantronics.com, and destroy the original transmission and its 
attachments without reading or saving in any manner.





From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 10:42:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Down Pipes - Flex Pipe Replacement

They sell it on the displays with the various muffler parts. They push it as
flexible tailpipe material.

A local welder had no problem brazing it to the steel down pipes with
silver-nickel, I think.

Side benefit: as soon as it gets hot the first time, it turns black.
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6





From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 10:50:50 -0800
Subject: Another Heater Question

It offends my sense of order for this to be true.

Has anyone figured out a workaround so the handle can be pushed in for the
closed position?
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6





From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 17:35:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Grose Jet installation question

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC   USA
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: tom felts
  To: Dave & Marlene ; Blue One Hundred
  Cc: Rick &7& Neves ; Healey list
  Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 10:11 AM
  Subject: Re: Grose Jet installation question


  Don't know anything about the "new" Grose Jets, but I have them in my BJ8
  and my E-type for years and NEVER a problem with leakage which i had
  frequently with the original jets.  You couldn't make me take them out and
  throw them away.

  You m,ay be correct on the new ones, but not the "old" ones.

  tom


  > [Original Message]
  > From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
  > To: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
  > Cc: Rick &7& Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>; Healey list
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
  > Date: 3/15/04 9:42:46 PM
  > Subject: Re: Grose Jet installation question
  >
  > Alan,
  >
  > I agree.
  >
  > Dave
  >
  > Blue One Hundred wrote:
  > > Rick -
  > >
  > > There's nothing special about the installation of
  > > grose jets (your float levers are installed,
  > > correct?).  If it is leaking out of your carbs it
  > > sounds like the balls are jammed open.
  > >
  > > Take the float chamber cover off and see if the balls
  > > are jammed open (i.e. in the down position).  If they
  > > are sticky and stuck in this position, there is only
  > > one way to fix it -
  > >
  > > 1) Unscrew the Gross Jets
  > > 2) Go to your open garage door
  > > 3) Chuck them as far as you possibly can into the
  > > forest
  > > 4) Replace them with old fashioned SU float jets.
  > >
  > > Some grose jets work fantastically (esp. ones made
  > > before 1995), others (new ones) typically don't work
  > > at all.  If they don't work there's nothing you can do
  > > about it.
  > >
  > > Regards,
  > >
  > > Alan





From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 19:44:12 -0500
Subject: Healey Sighting

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ





From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 20:21:31 -0500
Subject: Another Heater Question


> In cleaning up the heater cables, I noticed the closed position for the
> right side cable ("Air from Heater") is with the handle out! Which, I
guess,
> makes sense since it says "Push". I verified this by observing the
butterfly
> functioning in the duct.
>
> It offends my sense of order for this to be true.
>
> Has anyone figured out a workaround so the handle can be pushed in for the
> closed position?
> -- 
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 17:25:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Grose Jet installation question

I have bought both.  The old grose jets work like a
champ.  The new ones are only good for use as turkey
shot in a blunderbuss.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Don't know anything about the "new" Grose Jets, but
> I have them in my BJ8
> and my E-type for years and NEVER a problem with
> leakage which i had
> frequently with the original jets.  You couldn't
> make me take them out and
> throw them away.
> 
> You m,ay be correct on the new ones, but not the
> "old" ones.
> 
> tom
> 
> 
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
> > To: Blue One Hundred
> <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> > Cc: Rick &7& Neves <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>;
> Healey list
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: 3/15/04 9:42:46 PM
> > Subject: Re: Grose Jet installation question
> >
> > Alan,
> >
> > I agree.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > Blue One Hundred wrote:
> > > Rick -
> > > 
> > > There's nothing special about the installation
> of
> > > grose jets (your float levers are installed,
> > > correct?).  If it is leaking out of your carbs
> it
> > > sounds like the balls are jammed open.
> > > 
> > > Take the float chamber cover off and see if the
> balls
> > > are jammed open (i.e. in the down position).  If
> they
> > > are sticky and stuck in this position, there is
> only
> > > one way to fix it -
> > > 
> > > 1) Unscrew the Gross Jets
> > > 2) Go to your open garage door
> > > 3) Chuck them as far as you possibly can into
> the
> > > forest
> > > 4) Replace them with old fashioned SU float
> jets.
> > > 
> > > Some grose jets work fantastically (esp. ones
> made
> > > before 1995), others (new ones) typically don't
> work
> > > at all.  If they don't work there's nothing you
> can do
> > > about it.
> > > 
> > > Regards,
> > > 
> > > Alan





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 17:27:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Internet Phone, not necessarily Healey related, yet it

I've been using skype service for work now for the
last few months.  It ROCKS!  It is even better if you
get the Skype UBS handset... which then you don't have
to use those annoying headphones.

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding@plantronics.com>
wrote:
> List,
> 
> Check out www.skype.com for free internet phone
> software.  It's an alternate
> communication method using voice over IP (VOIP), and
> it's free.
> 
> Happy Healeying with VOIP
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail transmission,
> and any documents, files or previous e-mail messages
> attached to it, may contain information that is
> confidential and/or legally privileged. If you are
> not the intended recipient, or a person responsible
> for delivering it to the intended recipient, please
> DO NOT disclose the contents to another person,
> store or copy the information in any medium, or use
> any of the information contained in or attached to
> this transmission for any purpose. If you have
> received this transmission in error, please
> immediately notify the sender by reply email or at
> mailto:privacy@plantronics.com, and destroy the
> original transmission and its attachments without
> reading or saving in any manner.





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 17:59:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Well. Not Healey Related, but British...

If you live in California, a "neighborhood of million
dollar homes" would mean you probably live in the
slum.  Explains the abandonded car in front of your
house.  You would need to own a home worth "millions"
of dollars to be considered middle class.

FYI in Hong Kong, you could get an '88 Jaguar
convertible V12 in perfect running order with about
30,000 miles for.... get this.... probably about
$1,000.  In fact, any car over 10 years old is
about... $1,000.  BMWs, Mercedes, Jags... $1,000.  All
in perfect running condition (Hong Kong people really
pamper their cars).

I know a guy who bought a '94 Ferrarri 512M (i.e.
Testarossa) for... $30,000.    Mint condition, 15,000
miles... the car looks like it rolled off the showroom
floor.  There are alot of ferraris you can get here
for less than $20,000.

Before you all start falling over yourselves to export
grey market cars to the US... it won't work.  These
cars are all RHD.  A little secret our UK and Aussie
friends have known for years... get a posting to Hong
Kong... bring back a cherry car & impress the
neighbors!

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8




--- Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Last weekend someone left an 88 XJS Convertible in
> front of our house. No license plates, no
> registration
> and a short tow rope. We called the local police.
> After running the VIN, they determined that it was
> in
> fact abandoned. Cops made a quick check for Jimmy
> Hoffa, and then let me give it the once over. 
> 
> From the exterior, other than being dirty, it was
> pristine. Not a single door ding. Perfect
> copper/champagne paint. Convertible top was in good
> condition. Slight wearing on the beading near the to
> of the drivers window. Interior was adequate.
> Driver's
> seat was worn, all else looked ok. 
> 
> Engine (V12)looked complete - no tell tale signs
> that
> the took something apart then couldn't get it
> running.
> Battery was missing. 
> 
> So, what to do. The police had it towed to an
> impound
> lot. I could probably get it once it clears a 30 day
> lean by paying the impound fees. How would I know if
> it ran, or what was wrong with it in the first
> place... Must have been bad enough to run away from.
> 
> I do find it kind of funny, that in a neighborhood
> of
> million dollar homes, some one drops off a XJS, just
> like they would abandon an old Ford in a trailer
> park... Human behavior is consistent, I guess it is
> all a matter of perspective. 
> 
> I could use a 100S (maybe next weekend?). 
> 
> Dean BN7





From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 21:23:11 -0600
Subject: RE: Healey Sighting

It seems that their marketing departments must think alike.

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Healeyolic
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 6:44 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Healey Sighting


I just got my on-line Marriott Rewards statement and, as part of the
masthead, there is a couple driving what appears to be a Healey. Guess that
is another statement as to what the good life means.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ





From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 22:47:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

----- Original Message -----
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: "'Healeyolic'" <healey6@optonline.net>; "'Healey List'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 10:23 PM
Subject: RE: Healey Sighting


| I have a Doubletree ad on my wall that has a couple driving what I think
is
| a BN4 (single windscreen washer).  It has the tagline "Shorten your to-do
| list to "Just Get Away".
|
| It seems that their marketing departments must think alike.
|
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On
| Behalf Of Healeyolic
| Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 6:44 PM
| To: Healey List
| Subject: Healey Sighting
|
|
| I just got my on-line Marriott Rewards statement and, as part of the
| masthead, there is a couple driving what appears to be a Healey. Guess
that
| is another statement as to what the good life means.
|
| John Sims, BN6
| Aberdeen, NJ
|





From "Kevin" <krogers at new.rr.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 07:50:10 -0600
Subject: Engine stand mounting

Do I mount the head of the engine stand to the plate that the Trans bell
housing bolts to and if so will the crank come out while this plate is
installed?

Or do I remove the plate and mount the head directly to the block.

I have allot more mounting options if I use the plate but all are useless if
the crank can not be removed

Thank you for your reply's

Kevin Rogers
Lost now found 1960 BN7





From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 09:49:17 -0500
Subject: RE: Engine stand mounting

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kevin
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 8:50 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Engine stand mounting

My first question to the group! I have the engine out of the car and
would
like to know:

Do I mount the head of the engine stand to the plate that the Trans bell
housing bolts to and if so will the crank come out while this plate is
installed?

Or do I remove the plate and mount the head directly to the block.

I have allot more mounting options if I use the plate but all are
useless if
the crank can not be removed

Thank you for your reply's

Kevin Rogers
Lost now found 1960 BN7





From ahy3000 at comcast.net
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 14:58:05 +0000
Subject: Re: Internet Phone, not necessarily Healey related, yet it

--
Burt Weiner
'63 BJ7
HBJ7L/23582
ahy3000@comcast.net
> List,
> 
> Check out www.skype.com for free internet phone software.  It's an alternate
> communication method using voice over IP (VOIP), and it's free.
> 
> Happy Healeying with VOIP
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7 # 10610





From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 07:33:18 -0800
Subject: RE: Engine stand mounting

Looks like you got good advice from Michael for mounting the engine to the
stand.

Now, what's the story about your car?  Lost now found?

Cheers,

Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610











CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail transmission, and any documents, files 
or previous e-mail messages attached to it, may contain information that is 
confidential and/or legally privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, 
or a person responsible for delivering it to the intended recipient, please DO 
NOT disclose the contents to another person, store or copy the information in 
any medium, or use any of the information contained in or attached to this 
transmission for any purpose. If you have received this transmission in error, 
please immediately notify the sender by reply email or at 
mailto:privacy@plantronics.com, and destroy the original transmission and its 
attachments without reading or saving in any manner.





From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 07:54:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Another Heater Question

Thanks for the input to my rather silly posting. The "Out for Summer - In
for Winter" idea works for me as long as there really is no hot air coming
thru with the engine & cockpit heater valves turned off. I've had issues
with that before. Perhaps one of them leaks.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 09:02:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine stand mounting

Dave Russell
BN2

Kevin wrote:
> Do I mount the head of the engine stand to the plate that the Trans bell
> housing bolts to and if so will the crank come out while this plate is
> installed?
> 
> Or do I remove the plate and mount the head directly to the block.
> 
> Thank you for your reply's
> 
> Kevin Rogers
> Lost now found 1960 BN7





From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 08:08:05 -0800
Subject: old shakey





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 09:10:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine stand mounting

Please elaborate on exactly how this is done.

Dave Russell

Michael Salter wrote:
> however with a little ingenuity you will find that you can often actually 
>mount an engine from
> the side. This makes things a lot easier, moves the c of g of the engine
> closer to the post of the stand and allows you to complete the assembly
> without removing the engine from the stand.
> 
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com





From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 08:40:20 -0800
Subject: RE: Internet Phone, not necessarily Healey related, yet it

I was just on talking with my brother (using VOIP), and the connection was
no ware near as good as a land line, yet I think some of it had to do with
the quality of the headset being used, our computers, and the connection
over the internet.  This technology has a way to go before it replaces the
traditional land line connection, yet the price is right, and the technology
will get better over time.

Cheers,

Frank











CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail transmission, and any documents, files 
or previous e-mail messages attached to it, may contain information that is 
confidential and/or legally privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, 
or a person responsible for delivering it to the intended recipient, please DO 
NOT disclose the contents to another person, store or copy the information in 
any medium, or use any of the information contained in or attached to this 
transmission for any purpose. If you have received this transmission in error, 
please immediately notify the sender by reply email or at 
mailto:privacy@plantronics.com, and destroy the original transmission and its 
attachments without reading or saving in any manner.





From "Kevin" <krogers at new.rr.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 11:01:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine stand mounting/my healey story

To the story of my car. for those who are interested

In 1996 I made acquaintance with who I now consider a good friend in Davenport
IA. He received a call from his grand mother in Virginia who asked "when are
you going to come and get that car your grand father left you"? (1960 BN7, red
with black, OD, no heater)

John brought the car to IA and he and I started to look it over and get a
handle on what it is. I immediately fell in love with the shape and the
history of the car.

In Feb. of 03 I started my search for a 3000 and called John to see what to
look for. I looked at several cars in the spring and in June John called and
asked if I would be interested in his. We made the deal in the beginning of
July and now it is mine.

I have been building a new home since August and have recently moved in. the
car has been in storage in Virginia, IA and Wisconsin for the past 19 years.

I have used the past 6 month to research the car and its needs and I can
finally start its resurrection.

I thank every one who responded to my question and I look forward to being
part of this community

Kevin Rogers
1960 BN7
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Golding, Frank
  To: 'Kevin' ; healeys@autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 9:33 AM
  Subject: RE: Engine stand mounting


  Kevin,

  Looks like you got good advice from Michael for mounting the engine to the
stand.

  Now, what's the story about your car?  Lost now found?

  Cheers,

  Frank Golding
  1960 BN7 # 10610






  CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail transmission, and any documents, files
or previous e-mail messages attached to it, may contain information that is
confidential and/or legally privileged. If you are not the intended recipient,
or a person responsible for delivering it to the intended recipient, please DO
NOT disclose the contents to another person, store or copy the information in
any medium, or use any of the information contained in or attached to this
transmission for any purpose. If you have received this transmission in error,
please immediately notify the sender by reply email or at
mailto:privacy@plantronics.com, and destroy the original transmission and its
attachments without reading or saving in any manner.





From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 09:08:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Well. Not Healey Related, but British...Decision has been

The thought of owning a V12 was intriguing, but it is
probably best to start out with one that has a solid
maintenance history.

Besides, any money and time allocated to British cars
would be better spent on the Healey:)

For those that responded to the original posting,
thank you for your insight, wisdom and humor...

Dean BN7 

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam





From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 12:56:48 EST
Subject: Re: old shakey

Rick
San Diego

In a message dated 3/17/04 8:09:50 AM, healeymanjim@JoiMail.com writes:


> thanks to the folks who answered my plea for help.  the consensus is it is
> the
> brake drums.  my military mind has a hard time believing that if they were
> machined incorrectly it would not be caught at the factory and that
previous
> owners would have put up with an obvious malfunction for over 30 years.





From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 13:11:16 -0500
Subject: Engine Work Costs

Shop Work:
-  Clean block
-  Install freeze plugs
-  Deck the block
-  Bore  cylinders
- Turn crank
-  Set new main bearings
-  Install Crank
-  Install cam bearings
-  Machine cam and install
-  Magnaflux rods and install new pistons on rods
-  Install pistons in block
-  Head job, including hardened seats, and valve guides
-  Cost    $ 920.00  estimate-    IS THIS REASONABLE?

    I will be supplying the parts, (new pistons, bearings, gaskets)
Anything major left out here?   I will be installing the head and the rest
of the engine external parts myself.
    Any place that I can cut any significant costs?


Also can 2 guys pick up this block with just the cam and crank installed
without loosing their manhood?

Thanks in advance,   Mark





From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 13:21:06 EST
Subject: Re: Engine Work Costs


>     I'm trying to fit a Bt7 30000 engine rebuild into my present budget ...
>
I think the problem will be fitting that 30000cc monster into your car!
>
> -  Cost    $ 920.00  estimate-    IS THIS REASONABLE?
>
That's reasonable.

If you have questions, get a breakdown of the costs of each procedure. Most
will be labor based and some tasks are flat rate (eg: Bore/hone $20 a hole)

Rick
San Diego





From Rizzo Steven D LtCol AETC/XPRU <Steven.Rizzo at RANDOLPH.AF.MIL>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 12:29:39 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Trunnion Bushing Torque

Mucho Thanko in advance!

Stever





From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 13:22:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine stand mounting

An  educated guess would be make a bracket which would fit on the
engine mounting studs and adapt this to the engine stand.

Kind regards
Ed
www.vintage-sportcar-touring.ca
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4

P.S. Michael - tomorrow about 10AM EST


Dave & Marlene wrote:

> Michael,
> 
> Please elaborate on exactly how this is done.
> 
> Dave Russell
> 
> Michael Salter wrote:
> 
>> however with a little ingenuity you will find that you can often 
>> actually mount an engine from
>> the side. This makes things a lot easier, moves the c of g of the engine
>> closer to the post of the stand and allows you to complete the assembly
>> without removing the engine from the stand.
>>
>> Michael Salter
>> www.precisionsportscar.com





From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 12:21:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Engine Work Costs

-- 
David Nock
               NEW  E-mail Addresses!!!

 David Nock, Technical Questions   healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Sheila Nock-Huggins, Parts Questions    britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net

British Car Specialists  2060 N. Wilson Way   Stockton  CA  95205
 Phone 209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030

http://www.britishcarspecialists.com


> I know many of you have been down this road before so I know I will get
> some great answers here.
> I'm trying to fit a Bt7 30000 engine rebuild into my present budget and
> need to know the "Must Do's" that have to be done by a shop and what I can
> do myself.   I'll throw out what I know and please add to my lack of
> intelligence if you please.  I can handle it.
> Here's a brief engine background as I know it.
> The car has 85,000 original miles, cam lobes look good, crank rod
> journals look good, rod bearings are not burned through, a couple of
> scratches in 2 cylinders but not deep,  still has original pistons and yes
> there is a ridge at the top of each bore. These are just observations that I
> have made through the bottom and  top of the engine. I popped a couple of
> bearings off to investigate a little bit.   I intend to deliver the block
> with just the crank and cam shaft in situ. (love that term)
> 
> Shop Work:
> -  Clean block
> -  Install freeze plugs
> -  Deck the block
> -  Bore  cylinders
> - Turn crank
> -  Set new main bearings
> -  Install Crank
> -  Install cam bearings
> -  Machine cam and install
> -  Magnaflux rods and install new pistons on rods
> -  Install pistons in block
> -  Head job, including hardened seats, and valve guides
> -  Cost    $ 920.00  estimate-    IS THIS REASONABLE?
> 
> I will be supplying the parts, (new pistons, bearings, gaskets)
> Anything major left out here?   I will be installing the head and the rest
> of the engine external parts myself.
> Any place that I can cut any significant costs?
> 
> 
> Also can 2 guys pick up this block with just the cam and crank installed
> without loosing their manhood?
> 
> Thanks in advance,   Mark





From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 17:02:27 -0500
Subject: RE: Engine Work Costs

Good luck.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark and kathy LaPierre
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 1:11 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Engine Work Costs

    I know many of you have been down this road before so I know I will
get
some great answers here.
    I'm trying to fit a Bt7 30000 engine rebuild into my present budget
and
need to know the "Must Do's" that have to be done by a shop and what I
can
do myself.   I'll throw out what I know and please add to my lack of
intelligence if you please.  I can handle it.
    Here's a brief engine background as I know it.
    The car has 85,000 original miles, cam lobes look good, crank rod
journals look good, rod bearings are not burned through, a couple of
scratches in 2 cylinders but not deep,  still has original pistons and
yes
there is a ridge at the top of each bore. These are just observations
that I
have made through the bottom and  top of the engine. I popped a couple
of
bearings off to investigate a little bit.   I intend to deliver the
block
with just the crank and cam shaft in situ. (love that term)

Shop Work:
-  Clean block
-  Install freeze plugs
-  Deck the block
-  Bore  cylinders
- Turn crank
-  Set new main bearings
-  Install Crank
-  Install cam bearings
-  Machine cam and install
-  Magnaflux rods and install new pistons on rods
-  Install pistons in block
-  Head job, including hardened seats, and valve guides
-  Cost    $ 920.00  estimate-    IS THIS REASONABLE?

    I will be supplying the parts, (new pistons, bearings, gaskets)
Anything major left out here?   I will be installing the head and the
rest
of the engine external parts myself.
    Any place that I can cut any significant costs?


Also can 2 guys pick up this block with just the cam and crank installed
without loosing their manhood?

Thanks in advance,   Mark





From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 14:06:23 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Trunnion Bushing Torque

The shock arm bolt that ties the two arms together acts to put the proper
'squeeze' on the upper link bushings when the arms are 'bottomed' as the
bolt is tightened.  The fulcrum pin simply locates the bits in the correct
orientation.  The castle nut should be bottomed with 'light' torque, making
sure that the head of the pin is in it's proper postion, and making
absolutely sure not to forget it's split pin.

I usually leave the shock mounting bolts slightly loose until everything is
hooked up to allow easier fitting of components - then tighten the shock arm
bolt, the fulcrum pin castle nut, the shock arm pinch bolt, and then torque
the 4 shock mounting bolts.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rizzo Steven D LtCol AETC/XPRU" <Steven.Rizzo@RANDOLPH.AF.MIL>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 10:29 AM
Subject: BJ8 Trunnion Bushing Torque


What is the proper trunnion bushing torque setting when reinstalling front
shocks?  I have been unable to find an actual torque value.  Hopefully,
someone here will know.  If there is not an actual objective 'setting'
value, what is the subjective 'feel' as to how tight should the castellated
nut be?

Mucho Thanko in advance!

Stever





From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 17:19:34 EST
Subject: Re: Engine Work Costs

Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans





From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 17:39:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Engine Work Costs

Back in the late 80's I came across a "Schedule of Repair Times" for the Austin 
Healey Mark II and
Sports Convertible (Series BJ7) which I transferred to a Lotus 123 spread sheet 
and in the mid
90's, converted it to an Excel spread sheat.  In late 2002, I mentioned this on 
this list and Ed
at JustBrits was kind enough to put it up on his website.  

The section on various engine procedures gives repair times required.  You can 
apply the
applicable shop rate in your area to get an estimate of the cost.  One note; I 
have been advise by
various "experts" that these times should not be taken too seriously.  Even so, 
they should give a
fairly good idea of the times required.  

Here are the links to JustBrits.
  http://www.justbrits.com/ah/ah01.htm  [only part of the engines section is 
presented]
  http://www.justbrits.com/times.XLW   [entire Excel spread sheet]

Good Luck! --Scott Morris

 --- Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote: <<  I know 
many of you have been
down this road before so I know I will get some great answers here.   I'm 
trying to fit a Bt7
30000 engine rebuild into my present budget and need to know the "Must Do's" 
that have to be done
by a shop and what I can do myself.   I'll throw out what I know and please add 
to my lack of
intelligence if you please.  I can handle it. ...... >>


=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

______________________________________________________________________ 
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca





From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 17:54:23 -0500
Subject: Is It Just Me?

Can you say "No Combustion Chambers"  . Seems to me this head is junk or am
I missing something.

Some poor soul is going to bid on the "By Now" before he takes a good look
at those pictures and get the big Shaftaroony.  : (

Ebay  #2467257722


Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7





From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 15:40:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Engine Work Costs

Here was my baseline for parts - and yes $920 seems
about right for machine work. 

Initial parts order:

        AH Part No      Description     Price Each      Qty     Total   Price in
$
70      BRK 249A        Pipe Res to Brk Cyl LHD 6.45    1       #6.45   $9.45
70      BRK 248A        Pipe Res to Clutch M/ Cyl LHD   6.75    1       #6.75
$9.89
        CBS101  Choke cable     5.75    1       #5.75   $8.43
        COM162  Rear Oil Seal Kit       38.5    1       #38.50  $56.43
        CHT119  Thermostat (82degrees)  3.45    1       #3.45   $5.06
        CHT126  Waterpump 3/8"  46.95   1       #46.95  $68.82
31      CHT156  Heater Trunking 4"      8.4     1       #8.40   $12.31
30      CHT155  Heater Trunking 3 1/4"  7.45    1       #7.45   $10.92
        ENG602  GASKET-cylinder head    37.5    1       #37.50  $54.97
        ENG603  GASKET-bottom end       19.95   1       #19.95  $29.24
6       ENG605  bolt - big end bolt     5.45    12      #65.40  $95.86
7       ENG606  Nut - big end bolt      0.85    12      #10.20  $14.95
8       ENG607  Bush - small end - set  11.95   1       #11.95  $17.52
1       ENG611  PISTON ASSY.(X6)+.040'  165     1       #165.00 $241.86
10      ENG620  BIG END BEARING SET.+.010       46.5    1       #46.50
$68.16
11      ENG625  MAIN BEARING SET.+.010' 42.5    1       #42.50  $62.30
12      ENG628  THRUST WASHER SET.std   6.45    1       #6.45   $9.45
13      ENG631  NUT-main bearing cap    1.1     8       #8.80   $12.90
17      ENG636  Lockwasher Flywheel     0.55    2       #1.10   $1.61
18      ENG637  Bolt Flywheel   0.75    4       #3.00   $4.40
19      ENG638  Woodruff Key - crankshaft       0.35    2       #0.70   $1.03
23      ENG645  Lockwasher Crank nut    1.39    1       #1.39   $2.04
25      ENG648  Timing Chain    8.25    1       #8.25   $12.09
27      ENG650  tensioner - timing chain        9.25    1       #9.25   $13.56
28      ENG651  Lock washer - tensioner 0.65    1       #0.65   $0.95
29      ENG652  Lockwasher camshaft     0.75    1       #0.75   $1.10
32      ENG655  Woodruff Key - camshaft 0.49    1       #0.49   $0.72
34      ENG658  Bearing Set - camshaft  23.25   1       #23.25  $34.08
35      ENG660  CAM FOLLOWER    6.5     12      #78.00  $114.33
36      ENG661  PUSH ROD        3.95    12      #47.40  $69.48
39      ENG667  Washer - oil sump (oval)        0.25    5       #1.25   $1.83
42      ENG672  OIL PUMP        125     1       #125.00 $183.23
43      ENG673  THRUST WASHER-oil pump drive    4.5     1       #4.50
$6.60
49      ENG685  VALVE-oil pressure release      3.85    1       #3.85
$5.64
50      ENG686  SPRING-oil pressure release     0.99    1       #0.99
$1.45
75      ENG720  VALVE-inlet     4.85    6       #29.10  $42.65
75      ENG721  VALVE-exhaust   8.5     6       #51.00  $74.76
76      ENG722  GUIDE-inlet valve       1.8     6       #10.80  $15.83
76      ENG723  GUIDE-exhaust valve     2.3     6       #13.80  $20.23
76      ENG734  Clip Valve Collet       0.38    12      #4.56   $6.68
77      ENG725  VALVE SPRING SET        16.75   1       #16.75  $24.55
84      ENG736  Rocker Cover - alloy/engraved   89.5    1       #89.50
$131.19
84      ENG740  Cap Nuts (ss)   4.75    1       #4.75   $6.96
84      ENG741  Cap Washers (ss)        5.65    1       #5.65   $8.28
84      ENG742  Rubber bush     0.25    1       #0.25   $0.37
84      ENG743  T' piece (ss)   12.9    1       #12.90  $18.91
103     ENG760  STUD-cylinder head      1.38    16      #22.08  $32.36
102     ENG761  NUT-cylinder head       0.99    16      #15.84  $23.22
107     ENG766  CORE PLUG-small 0.42    6       #2.52   $3.69
108     ENG768  CORE PLUG-large 0.55    6       #3.30   $4.84
120     ENG782  OIL SEAL-timing cover   2.95    1       #2.95   $4.32
126     ENG788  OIL SEAL-distributor drive      2.1     1       #2.10
$3.08
135     ENG800  ENGINE MOUNTING 7.6     2       #15.20  $22.28
136     ENG801  Rebound - engine mounting       4.5     2       #9.00
$13.19
29      EXS173  Exhaust Mounting Brkt   1.75    2       #3.50   $5.13
67      STG211  GASKET-idler lid        0.35    1       #0.35   $0.51
65      STG209  Oil Seal - Idler        1.6     1       #1.60   $2.35
49      STG149  Dust Seal - Idler       1.1     1       #1.10   $1.61
64      STG146  BUSH-steering box&idler 5       2       #10.00  $14.66
                                                
                                        #1,176.37       $1,724.32

Follow up Order (stuff I forgot)

        AH Part No      Description     Price Each      Qty     Total   Price in
$
        BON105  Anti Rattle Spring      0.85    1       #0.85   $1.25
        BON104  Spring tension latch    2.95    1       #2.95   $4.32
        BON143  Cover Spring    0.34    1       #0.34   $0.50
        BON145  Guide Plate     2.95    1       #2.95   $4.32
        ENG789  Oil Seal Tach Drive     3.25    1       #3.25   $4.76
        FUL276  Felt Bush Throttle      0.75    2       #1.50   $2.20
31      FUL271  Ball Joint Throttle     4.95    2       #9.90   $14.51
84      ENG736  Rocker Cover - alloy/engraved   89.5    1       #89.50
$131.19
67      STG215  Side Rod        19.5    2       #39.00  $57.17
65      STG226  Track Rod Ends (pr)     14.25   1       #14.25  $20.89
49      STG209  Oil Seal Idler  1.6     1       #1.60   $2.35
64      STG146  BUSH-steering box&idler 0       1       #0.00   $0.00
                                                
                                        #166.09 $243.45

        
Machine work:

Connecting Rods 
R&R Bushing     $60.00
Recon   $72.00
Cut Bolt Seats  $40.00

Crank   
Grind & Polish  $85.00

Block   
Degrease & Insp $42.00
Hone & Bore     $100.00
Install Cam Bearings    $48.00
Surface $65.00

Flywheel        
Reface  $38.00

Balance $150.00

        $1,065.00

If you would like a copy of my streadsheet let me know
and I will email it off line.

Dean BN7

, including hardened seats, and valve
> guides
> -  Cost    $ 920.00  estimate-    IS THIS
> REASONABLE?
> 
> 

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam





From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 19:07:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Is It Just Me?

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 5:54 PM
Subject: Is It Just Me?


| I don't usually push  ebay auctions on this list but,
| is it just me or is there something seriously wrong with the second
picture
| in this auction.
|
| Can you say "No Combustion Chambers"  . Seems to me this head is junk or
am
| I missing something.
|
| Some poor soul is going to bid on the "By Now" before he takes a good look
| at those pictures and get the big Shaftaroony.  : (
|
| Ebay  #2467257722
|
|
| Mark,
| 58-MGA
| 60-MGA
| 76-MGB
| 74.5-MGBGT
| 60-BT7





From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 19:43:56 -0500
Subject: RE: Is It Just Me?

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark and kathy LaPierre
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 5:54 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Is It Just Me?

I don't usually push  ebay auctions on this list but,
is it just me or is there something seriously wrong with the second
picture
in this auction.

Can you say "No Combustion Chambers"  . Seems to me this head is junk or
am
I missing something.

Some poor soul is going to bid on the "By Now" before he takes a good
look
at those pictures and get the big Shaftaroony.  : (

Ebay  #2467257722


Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7





From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 18:49:49 -0600
Subject: RE: Engine Work Costs

could take a couple of tightenings as they do stretch.  The first was when the 
engine was built, the second was when you rebuild it.  After that look for new 
rod bolts.  ARP are nice and strong.  I used them in my 351W in my Cobra a few 
years ago. Still holding after many revs to 7000rpm. 
As I understand, r and r is where the machine shop straightens the rods, faces 
the surfaces of the rod and cap, then regrinds the big end diameter to spec.  
My machine shop cost something like $600-700 each engine for all the machine 
work.  But, I live in a little podunk town where everthing is cheap, and lucky 
for me,........that includes beer! Good luck!!!

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7

 





Quoting Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>:

> Hi Mark,
> Because removing and stripping a Healey engine is such a big job cutting
> corners during a rebuild is something that you will live to regret if
> you intend to keep the car.
> Here are my recommendations I'm sure you will get many others.
> Usually don't have to deck the block, they stay flat unless the engine
> has been severely overheated, but do countersink the head stud holes
> ever so slightly to prevent the head holding up on that area.
> If the cam is really good, less than 0.002" difference between the
> individual lobes you can get away with not grinding it. The original
> material is pretty hard and that hardness is difficult to duplicate
> after grinding. If the lifters are good put lots of lube on it all and
> but them back in IN THE SAME HOLES FROM WHICH THEY WERE REMOVED!! (I
> know I will hear about that).
> Unless you are racing don't worry about magnafluxing the rods, but do
> check the rod bolts carefully.
> There are no rod bearings on your list. Change those and the thrusts.
> I always use a new oil pump and relief valve spring.
> I always install a rear main seal kit.
> Forget the cost of the hardened seats; despite what you have heard the
> cast iron works just fine for years.
> You can always leave the rocker shaft and bushes until later if they
> need doing and money is short BUT don't forget to thoroughly clean the
> inside of the rocker shaft.
> Fit a new water pump, they invariably leak after a rebuild, may as well
> save those knuckles.
> New timing chain and tensioner, they are cheap.
> 2 guys can lift the block but it is a good grunt. Keep your legs
> together and bend your knees ;-)
> 
> Good luck.
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>  
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Mark and kathy LaPierre
> Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 1:11 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Engine Work Costs
> 
>     I know many of you have been down this road before so I know I will
> get
> some great answers here.
>     I'm trying to fit a Bt7 30000 engine rebuild into my present budget
> and
> need to know the "Must Do's" that have to be done by a shop and what I
> can
> do myself.   I'll throw out what I know and please add to my lack of
> intelligence if you please.  I can handle it.
>     Here's a brief engine background as I know it.
>     The car has 85,000 original miles, cam lobes look good, crank rod
> journals look good, rod bearings are not burned through, a couple of
> scratches in 2 cylinders but not deep,  still has original pistons and
> yes
> there is a ridge at the top of each bore. These are just observations
> that I
> have made through the bottom and  top of the engine. I popped a couple
> of
> bearings off to investigate a little bit.   I intend to deliver the
> block
> with just the crank and cam shaft in situ. (love that term)
> 
> Shop Work:
> -  Clean block
> -  Install freeze plugs
> -  Deck the block
> -  Bore  cylinders
> - Turn crank
> -  Set new main bearings
> -  Install Crank
> -  Install cam bearings
> -  Machine cam and install
> -  Magnaflux rods and install new pistons on rods
> -  Install pistons in block
> -  Head job, including hardened seats, and valve guides
> -  Cost    $ 920.00  estimate-    IS THIS REASONABLE?
> 
>     I will be supplying the parts, (new pistons, bearings, gaskets)
> Anything major left out here?   I will be installing the head and the
> rest
> of the engine external parts myself.
>     Any place that I can cut any significant costs?
> 
> 
> Also can 2 guys pick up this block with just the cam and crank installed
> without loosing their manhood?
> 
> Thanks in advance,   Mark





From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 17:59:31 -0800
Subject: Front grille install MK1

kenny
61  BT-7

_________________________________________________________________
Find a broadband plan that fits. Great local deals on high-speed Internet 
access. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200360ave/direct/01/





From Greg Wilkinson <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 21:22:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Is It Just Me?

> 
> From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> Date: 2004/03/17 Wed PM 05:54:23 EST
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Is It Just Me?
> 
> I don't usually push  ebay auctions on this list but,
> is it just me or is there something seriously wrong with the second picture
> in this auction.
> 
> Can you say "No Combustion Chambers"  . Seems to me this head is junk or am
> I missing something.
> 
> Some poor soul is going to bid on the "By Now" before he takes a good look
> at those pictures and get the big Shaftaroony.  : (
> 
> Ebay  #2467257722
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 58-MGA
> 60-MGA
> 76-MGB
> 74.5-MGBGT
> 60-BT7





From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 22:09:23 -0500
Subject: Great Article

I know my car won't, the new tank is waiting in the basement.  And boy am I
tempted to see what the new ones look like inside, but I better not.

Thanks for the pictures Perry,    May that poor tank rest in peace.

Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7





From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 19:31:24 -0800
Subject: California "Healey Roads".

http://www.pashnit.com/motoroads.htm

Having been born and raised in Mt. Shasta, northern CA, I've been on
many of those roads and they are every bit as good for a Healey as a
bike.

In fact, after Open Roads this year, I'll be taking the Healey on up to
Shasta "the back way" through Reno and Susanville into McCloud.  It's a
beautiful drive through the sugar pines.

Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
'53 BN1 #663





From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 22:48:20 EST
Subject: Re: Great Article





From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 23:50:26 EST
Subject: Attention BN1/2 Owners

I am doing some additional research on the original brass battery hold down 
rods, associated hardware and battery pans for both the BN1/2s for a Concours 
article.  I would like to hear from any of you off list that may have any of 
their original brass rods, washers, battery pans etc.  Please describe what you 
have and what vintage 100 it came from, i.e. the chassis or better yet the 
body number of the car.  As an example, I have two original rods from a '54 
BN1, 
body no. 4024 which have BSF threads and Whitworth nuts.  I am particularly 
interested in later cars with brass rods that have UNF threads.  Also the 
design 
of the battery tray changed with the later cars.  Any info would be 
appreciated.

Additionally, I have come across several NOS aluminum splash aprons for the 
BN1/2s from a supplier in England who got them from the original BMC supplier 
in England.  He believes that they were made by Jensen and the of course they 
are not numbered as the originals would have been with the cars specific body 
number.

>From my parts book the official name is "Apron for Front Bumper" part no.14B 
1909.  These are in excellent, as new condition, still in their original 
chocolate brown primer, however they do not include the two little rubber 
plugs, 
part no. 3H 926.  I am getting one since my original splash apron is long gone 
and the original replacement that I have is in poor condition.  

If anyone else is interested in one of these, please let me know as soon as 
possible since I can have them shipped to me all at once thereby reducing the 
shipping costs from England.  Estimated delivered price to you is around 48.00 
Pounds Sterling.  Not inexpensive, but these are the real deal and cheaper 
than the reproductions currently offered. 

Cheers,

Curt Arndt - AH Concours Committee
Carlsbad, CA 
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 21:55:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Work Costs

Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/17/2004 5:04:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> msalter@precisionsportscar.com writes:
> If the lifters are good put lots of lube on it all and but them back in IN 
> THE SAME HOLES FROM WHICH THEY WERE REMOVED!! (Iknow I will hear about that).
> I have utmost respect for Michael Salter's abilities. Further, he avoids 
> ending a sentence with a preposition, a mistake commonly made by many noted 
>Healey 
> mechanics.
> 
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans





From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 04:57:08 +0000
Subject: RE: Great Article

As Austin-Healey Magazine Editor, let me just say many thanks for the 
unsolicited testamonial.  Perry's article and photos were indeed very good 
-- I even dedicated a page of COLOR photos to it, something that is 
EXTREMELY rare for a tech article.

I wish that ALL Healey enthusiasts would get Austin-Healey Magazine.  I work 
very hard to bring a variety of high-quality features to our readers in 
every issue, and I KNOW that anyone with an interest in Austin-Healeys will 
enjoy it.  We're right there at http://www.healey.org

Thanks again.  Please also remember the power of "word of mouth" -- 
recommend us to a Healey enthusiast friend!

Cheers,
Reid

Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine

>From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
>Reply-To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Great Article
>Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 22:09:23 -0500
>
>     Hats off to Perry Small for his article in Austin Healey Magazine on 
>the
>Healey fuel tank dissection.   No wonder they cease to suck after so many
>years,  there's a friggin non replaceable filter on the end of the pickup
>tube.  Between the glogged filter, the sinking rusty floats, and the 
>rusting
>carcass, its no wonder the LBC tanks don't last as long as we want them to.
>But as Perry mentioned the tanks were built to out last the cars but who
>would have thought so  many of these cars would still be around today.   So
>if you haven't made the switch to a new tank yet and went  the "slosh and
>seal route"  I'd be wondering whats going on with that internal filter if I
>were you.
>     Anybody's car got a sudden case of the "hiccups" lately.
>
>I know my car won't, the new tank is waiting in the basement.  And boy am I
>tempted to see what the new ones look like inside, but I better not.
>
>Thanks for the pictures Perry,    May that poor tank rest in peace.
>
>Mark,
>58-MGA
>60-MGA
>76-MGB
>74.5-MGBGT
>60-BT7

_________________________________________________________________
MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page  FREE 
download! http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/





From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 10:25:40 +0100
Subject: Couch potato

Jag dlskar dig jdttemycket!

Har hdmtat vverdraget, men blev lite besviken pe fdrgen. Den dr lite 
dassig, ser inte likadan ut som provet i affdren. Kanske blir bra dnde 
med lite tillvdnjning.

Kdrlek fren din egen soffpotatis,
Magnus 





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 06:27:59 -0500
Subject: RE: Great Article

Tom


> [Original Message]
> From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/17/04 10:16:13 PM
> Subject: Great Article
>
>     Hats off to Perry Small for his article in Austin Healey Magazine on
the
> Healey fuel tank dissection.   No wonder they cease to suck after so many
> years,  there's a friggin non replaceable filter on the end of the pickup
> tube.  Between the glogged filter, the sinking rusty floats, and the
rusting
> carcass, its no wonder the LBC tanks don't last as long as we want them
to.
> But as Perry mentioned the tanks were built to out last the cars but who
> would have thought so  many of these cars would still be around today.  
So
> if you haven't made the switch to a new tank yet and went  the "slosh and
> seal route"  I'd be wondering whats going on with that internal filter if
I
> were you.
>     Anybody's car got a sudden case of the "hiccups" lately.
>
> I know my car won't, the new tank is waiting in the basement.  And boy am
I
> tempted to see what the new ones look like inside, but I better not.
>
> Thanks for the pictures Perry,    May that poor tank rest in peace.
>
> Mark,
> 58-MGA
> 60-MGA
> 76-MGB
> 74.5-MGBGT





From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 06:24:57 EST
Subject: Re: Engine Work Costs





From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 07:08:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Great Article

Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 6:27 AM
Subject: RE: Great Article


> I found out about this non-assessible filter about 9 years ago after
> suffering for 3 years of pump running non-stop--car shutting off--not know
> what was wrong.  I finally had a local shop cut into the tank and
> discovered the filter filled with crap!  Pulled it out and installed an
> in-line filter outside the tank.  Problems over.
>
> Tom





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 08:06:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Great Article


> [Original Message]
> From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/18/04 7:09:03 AM
> Subject: Re: Great Article
>
> It must have leaked like hell after doing this though. : )
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
> To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 6:27 AM
> Subject: RE: Great Article
>
>
> > I found out about this non-assessible filter about 9 years ago after
> > suffering for 3 years of pump running non-stop--car shutting off--not
know
> > what was wrong.  I finally had a local shop cut into the tank and
> > discovered the filter filled with crap!  Pulled it out and installed an
> > in-line filter outside the tank.  Problems over.
> >
> > Tom





From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 07:24:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Work Costs


> add...align bore the crank and balance crank/harmonic bal./flywheel/clutch
> assembly.., 3 angle valve job, modern positive seals on valves, if the
valve
> seats are in ok shape, I wouldn't worry about hardened seats...the seat
> recession "problem" has never happened...do NOT use lead additives!
> Dave
> Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '62 BT7 MK II,  '54 BN1,  '62 Fiat 1600S
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
> > Shop Work:
> > -  Clean block
> > -  Install freeze plugs
> > -  Deck the block
> > -  Bore  cylinders
> > - Turn crank
> > -  Set new main bearings
> > -  Install Crank
> > -  Install cam bearings
> > -  Machine cam and install
> > -  Magnaflux rods and install new pistons on rods
> > -  Install pistons in block
> > -  Head job, including hardened seats, and valve guides
> > -  Cost    $ 920.00  estimate-    IS THIS REASONABLE?
> >
> >     I will be supplying the parts, (new pistons, bearings, gaskets)
> > Anything major left out here?   I will be installing the head and the
rest
> > of the engine external parts myself.
> >     Any place that I can cut any significant costs?





From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 09:37:23 -0600
Subject: BJ-7 Heritage factory record arrived

numbers appear to match.  HBJ7L20,040 was made between the 18th and 19th of 
June 1962.   I have a question about the key number and engine number.  I need 
to get an ign. key and a new engine number plate.  I actually have a new key 
barrel I could use also.  How does one go about installing it in the ign. 
switch? Does anybody out there sell engine number plates?  Thanks!

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7





From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 09:53:28 -0600
Subject: wiring problem solved, engine to start soon!

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7





From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 11:57:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Great Article

Randy Cooper
BT7 and Jeep Commanche

>>> "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net> 3/18/2004 8:06:38 AM >>>
It did until I went back and had it re-welded:-)


> [Original Message]
> From: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/18/04 7:09:03 AM
> Subject: Re: Great Article
>
> It must have leaked like hell after doing this though. : )
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
> To: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 6:27 AM
> Subject: RE: Great Article
>
>
> > I found out about this non-assessible filter about 9 years ago
after
> > suffering for 3 years of pump running non-stop--car shutting
off--not
know
> > what was wrong.  I finally had a local shop cut into the tank and
> > discovered the filter filled with crap!  Pulled it out and
installed an
> > in-line filter outside the tank.  Problems over.
> >
> > Tom





From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 13:09:38 EST
Subject: Re: Great Article

Rick
San Diego

In a message dated 3/18/04 9:00:06 AM, RANDOLPH.COOPER@netl.doe.gov writes:


> With all the leaks Healey tanks are prone
> to, has anyone had to scab their way home doing a highway repair?  At
> $1.69.9/gal the financial pressure of this increasing dribble is causing
> me increasing concern.





From "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 14:42:00 -0500
Subject: Windshield


Lawrence P. Mercier
lmercibn6@mindspring.com
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.





From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 21:51:34 +0100
Subject: Re: Couch potato

I am very sorry for this peculiar posting, which no one except some 
Swedes on the list will understand.
  It was sent unintentionally to the list. My apologies.

Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN





From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 15:16:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Windshield

Alan
67 HBJ8L/34297
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 1:42 PM
Subject: Windshield


> Greetings All,
> I'm getting ready to dismantle my BN 6 windshield to replace the glazing
rubber. I've looked through all my tech articles and nothing seems to be
written on the subject. So the question is
> Is the glazing rubber installed dry or should I use a sealer or glue or ?
> Thanks,
> Larry Mercier, BN 6, AN 5, AN 6





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 15:03:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Great Article

If you have enough access to get a couple of fingers on the leak, 
Permatex has a product called "Gas Tank & Radiator Repair" GTR-1. It is 
a two part epoxy putty.  Try to degrease around the leak & squish the 
mixed  putty into the leak. It takes about two hours to set.

I keep some in the car for emergencies but have never needed it.

I would think that fire concerns would bother you more than the cost of 
a gallon of gas.

Dave

Randolph Cooper wrote:
> Group,
> Speaking of leaking gas tanks, does anyone know of a spray-on kind of
> product that would stop such leaks?  I have an old Jeep that's leaking
> pretty badly, but I can't get to the tank for removal or repair due to a
> bash plate that is not about to come off (half the bolts holding it in
> place just spin without coming undone).  I can just get my hand between
> the bash plate and the tank (after great physical contortions under the
> truck and around the drive shaft) and could probably get a spray can in
> there--but to squirt what?  With all the leaks Healey tanks are prone
> to, has anyone had to scab their way home doing a highway repair?  At
> $1.69.9/gal the financial pressure of this increasing dribble is causing
> me increasing concern.
> 
> Randy Cooper
> BT7 and Jeep Commanche





From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 20:39:53 -0500
Subject: Windshield


> Greetings All,
> I'm getting ready to dismantle my BN 6 windshield to replace the glazing
rubber. I've looked through all my tech articles and nothing seems to be
written on the subject. So the question is
> Is the glazing rubber installed dry or should I use a sealer or glue or ?
> Thanks,
> Larry Mercier, BN 6, AN 5, AN 6
>
>
> Lawrence P. Mercier





From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 20:59:54 -0500
Subject: Engine work,  Thanks

Really great stuff.

Mark





From Daveshealey100 at aol.com
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 07:49:45 EST
Subject: spring is here

Dave 53 100/4
Wales UK.





from the dissimilar metals rubbing together.  works for me.  healeymanjim
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 09:16:35 -0800
Subject: gas tanks





From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 17:17:01 -0500
Subject: Re:Original 100-4 part

Doug
'56 BN2

________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!





From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 16:09:06 -0600
Subject: Front Suspension Rebound Buffer

Unfortunately, I can't figure out where it mounts, and my catalogs and shop
manual don't show it either, under the shock arm? there doesn't seem to be
room for that size of part or there should be one under each branch of the
arm, making 4 needed for the car, but catalog says you only need 2.

I assume this piece would help my brake hoses from being stretched when the
car is up on blocks or I hit a pothole, as well as being good for my safety
and the well-being of my car.  The hose stretchy thing is sort of what got
me to thinking something was awry.

Any help on where these go, with a good description would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance, and fully confident in the lists ability to sort this out
quickly,

Regards,

Greg Lemon
54 BN1





From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 18:11:32 -0500
Subject: RE: Front Suspension Rebound Buffer

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 5:09 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Front Suspension Rebound Buffer

Listers,
I am currently putting new brake hoses on my car, as I am working on
this,
which is going remarkably well, no rusted on parts or anything...damn
just
jinxed myself, anyway, I have noticed that my car is missing the front
suspension rebound buffer, which is listed in the Moss (M*** to those of
you
that just can't bear to read the name) catalog as 031-279.

Unfortunately, I can't figure out where it mounts, and my catalogs and
shop
manual don't show it either, under the shock arm? there doesn't seem to
be
room for that size of part or there should be one under each branch of
the
arm, making 4 needed for the car, but catalog says you only need 2.

I assume this piece would help my brake hoses from being stretched when
the
car is up on blocks or I hit a pothole, as well as being good for my
safety
and the well-being of my car.  The hose stretchy thing is sort of what
got
me to thinking something was awry.

Any help on where these go, with a good description would be
appreciated.

Thanks in advance, and fully confident in the lists ability to sort this
out
quickly,

Regards,

Greg Lemon
54 BN1





From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 15:41:24 -0800
Subject: Portland swap meet





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 17:19:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Rebound Buffer

The buffer goes under the front arm. One on each side of the car. There 
are two tapped holes for the hold down bolts. The only catch is that one 
of the bolts is partially under the shock so the shock has to be lifted 
to get to the bumper bolt. No wonder they don't get replaced very often.

Dave Russell
BN2

Greg Lemon wrote:
> Listers,
> I am currently putting new brake hoses on my car, as I am working on this,
> which is going remarkably well, no rusted on parts or anything...damn just
> jinxed myself, anyway, I have noticed that my car is missing the front
> suspension rebound buffer, which is listed in the Moss (Moss to those of you
> that just can't bear to read the name) catalog as 031-279.
> 
> Unfortunately, I can't figure out where it mounts, and my catalogs and shop
> manual don't show it either, under the shock arm? 
> Regards,
> 
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1





From "Jim McDermott" <jmcd206 at msn.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 18:26:28 -0800
Subject: RE: Portland swap meet





From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 19:03:20 -0800
Subject: more on old shakey





From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 19:14:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 1967 BJ8





From "Jim McDermott" <jmcd206 at msn.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 20:10:32 -0800
Subject: RE: Portland swap meet





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 21:49:06 -0700
Subject: Re: more on old shakey

Dave Russell

James Shope wrote:
   the one needing 4 ounces looked just like the drum shown on
> hendricks wire wheel web site. drilled off center. 
> know if i screwed it up.  healeymanjim





From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 22:55:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Rebound Buffer





From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 00:51:04 -0500
Subject: Re: more on old shakey

Dave

Dave & Marlene wrote:

> Did anyone ever wonder what the off center drum does to the brake feel 
> & action? Any speculation?
>
> Dave Russell
>
> James Shope wrote:
>   the one needing 4 ounces looked just like the drum shown on
>
>> hendricks wire wheel web site. drilled off center. know if i screwed 
>> it up.  healeymanjim





From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 06:36:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Rebound Buffer





From "Wm. \"Kit\" Henry II" <khenry at hmcltd.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 09:36:29 -0500
Subject: Car Shipping

Are there any suggestions in this

Also any steps in protection in buying a car on e-bay, it has been a hot
topic.
The car is item #  2466424017 it's a 1967 Cortina GT


Kit Henry

66 E-Type
65 BJ8
54 TF
70 Innocenti Mini (Purchased On Line)
85 XJS Gertrag 5 spd
67 Anglia





From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 09:51:53 -0500
Subject: NAPA fuel pump

I know this has been around before but I did not save it.  Would someone
please supply me with the number for the NAPA fuel pump for the BN7?

TIA
Keith Pennell





From "Jim Lesher" <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 10:39:49 -0500
Subject: RE: Car Shipping

>From: "Wm. \"Kit\" Henry II" <khenry@hmcltd.net>
>Reply-To: "Wm. \"Kit\" Henry II" <khenry@hmcltd.net>
>To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Car Shipping
>Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 09:36:29 -0500
>
>I have seen it on here before and can not remember the suggestions.
>I am looking at purchasing a Non-Healey for my car collection and will need 
>it
>transported form Tacoma Washington to Bellevue, Ohio.
>
>Are there any suggestions in this
>
>Also any steps in protection in buying a car on e-bay, it has been a hot
>topic.
>The car is item #  2466424017 it's a 1967 Cortina GT
>
>
>Kit Henry
>
>66 E-Type
>65 BJ8
>54 TF
>70 Innocenti Mini (Purchased On Line)
>85 XJS Gertrag 5 spd
>67 Anglia
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get reliable access on MSN 9 Dial-up. 3 months for the price of 1! 
(Limited-time offer) http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/





From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 07:47:25 -0800
Subject: Re: NAPA fuel pump

12 Volts
2.5-4.5 PSI
Gal./hr=30




Keith Pennell wrote:

>Listers,
>
>I know this has been around before but I did not save it.  Would someone
>please supply me with the number for the NAPA fuel pump for the BN7?
>
>TIA
>Keith Pennell





From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 11:11:44 -0500
Subject: Re: spring is here

So then she's your umfriend, as in,
"this is my, um... friend". :-)

Kent
'56 100 BN2





From "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 17:24:47 +0100
Subject: Fuel gauge

After learning that I had to ground my fuel gauge while testing on my 
workbench I did get some movement in the needle. BUT: the needle only 
moves from E to about 1/4 full while I move the float from fully empty 
to fully full. Battery supplies 12.42 Volts
The resistance of the sender slides from 2 Ohm to 84 Ohm, the meter 
needle flies to F when I put the full 12V on the meter.

I can hardly imagine that sliding the coils inside the meter housing 
will allow the needle to travel from 1/4 Full to completely Full.

Who can throw some light on this new problem please?

Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432





From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 08:53:38 -0800
Subject: eBay (indirectly Healey-related)

http://www.nytimes.com/2004/03/20/technology/20EBAY.html


********************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************





From "bradley lawler" <miata-driver at charter.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 11:19:08 -0600
Subject: Deals Gap US 129

Brad





From Jon McLeroy <jfm at spyderinternet.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 11:25:09 -0600
Subject: Re: NAPA fuel pump

Try Part #610-1051.  Thats 12V, 2.5-4.5 PSI, Gal/hr 30.

Works for me.

Cheers
Jon

At 09:51 AM 3/20/04 -0500, you wrote:
>Listers,
>
>I know this has been around before but I did not save it.  Would someone
>please supply me with the number for the NAPA fuel pump for the BN7?
>
>TIA
>Keith Pennell

Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx.  75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@spyderinternet.com
www.classicautolubes.com 


-- 
Spydernet has scanned this message for viruses and
dangerous content.





From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 12:09:18 -0600
Subject: Pre-formed brake lines for sale?





From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 12:19:03 -0600
Subject: Re: NAPA fuel pump-DIFFERENT MODEL

PART # 2P74019

Cheers,
Scott
Mashed 60 BN7
59 MGA
73 Bonnie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jon McLeroy" <jfm@spyderinternet.com>
To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: NAPA fuel pump


> Hey Keith
>
> Try Part #610-1051.  Thats 12V, 2.5-4.5 PSI, Gal/hr 30.
>
> Works for me.
>
> Cheers
> Jon
>
> At 09:51 AM 3/20/04 -0500, you wrote:
> >Listers,
> >
> >I know this has been around before but I did not save it.  Would someone
> >please supply me with the number for the NAPA fuel pump for the BN7?
> >
> >TIA
> >Keith Pennell
>
> Classic Auto Lubes
> 12803 CR 1222
> Tyler, Tx.  75709
> Ph: 903-561-4858
> Fax: 903-561-7177
> Email: jfm@spyderinternet.com
> www.classicautolubes.com





From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 13:28:38 EST
Subject: Re: Pre-formed brake lines for sale?

Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans





From "Ron Fine Esq." <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 10:51:18 -0800
Subject: Sealer for core plugs





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 12:44:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Sealer for core plugs

I think that JB Weld might be overdoing it. A more flexible sealer that 
could handle some expansion & contraction would probably work better. JB 
is very hard & unflexible.

I have always had good results with Permatex  "Aviation Form-A- Gasket 
Sealant liquid", # 80019.

Dave Russell

Ron Fine Esq. wrote:
> Hello listers,  I would like some opinions on the best sealer to use while
> installing new cupped core plugs in my 3000 engine.  My machine shop suggested
> using JB Weld.
> Any help is always appreciated.
> Ron





From Bob Tarwater <btarh2o at earthlink.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 14:00:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Pre-formed brake lines for sale?

Scott Willis wrote:

>Hello!
>Does anyone know of a company that sells pre-bent brake lines separately?
>MOSS has a whole set and the only ones I need listed for BN7 are the rear
>585-490 and 585-485.
>Thanks!
>Scott
>Mashed BN7





From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 16:10:59 EST
Subject: Re: Pre-formed brake lines for sale?

Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans





From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 16:41:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Sealer for core plugs

Mark


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fine Esq." <ronfineesq@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 1:51 PM
Subject: Sealer for core plugs


> Hello listers,  I would like some opinions on the best sealer to use while
> installing new cupped core plugs in my 3000 engine.  My machine shop
suggested
> using JB Weld.
> Any help is always appreciated.





From "Larry Dickstein" <lonejacklarry at kcweb.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 16:35:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Deals Gap US 129

Now a bike, on the other hand, is the way to go.

There are too many roads in the area to get excited about the tail.  On the
other side of it is the dam that was used in the latest Fugitive movie.  It
looked way larger in the movie.  Drive over if you must but it will not blow
your dress up.

Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO



 Have any of you even driven your Healey on US 129?  It is supposed to be a
great bike road and many sports car clubs go there just for 11 miles or
road.  There is 318 turns in 11 miles, but wanted to know if it is a healey
road?





From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 18:13:22 -0600
Subject: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back into a coma.

but I do not like to use ether on a fresh motor. The spark is small and very 
wimpy.  I have tried four different coils.  New points, new condensor, new plug

wires, new plugs.  Could the wires have too much resistance, they are carbon 
fiber for an electronic ign?  Any ideas are greatly appreciated!!!!

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7 





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 19:51:22 -0500
Subject: RE: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back into a coma.

Don't have any other suggestions though.

tom


> [Original Message]
> From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/20/04 7:13:30 PM
> Subject: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back into a coma.
>
> I started my Healey today after 20 years of being asleep.  The problem is
that 
> it is difficult to start and only runs for at most 45 seconds.  It cranks
over 
> easily. I think that I have narrowed the problem to the ign.  There is
plenty 
> of fuel.  The spark is not nice and blue and fat.  It fires right away on
ether
>
> but I do not like to use ether on a fresh motor. The spark is small and
very 
> wimpy.  I have tried four different coils.  New points, new condensor,
new plug
>
> wires, new plugs.  Could the wires have too much resistance, they are
carbon 
> fiber for an electronic ign?  Any ideas are greatly appreciated!!!!
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7 





From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 17:22:53 -0800
Subject: Re: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back into a coma.

It's ALWAYS the fuel pump ... trust me ;)


bs

ps.  I ran carbon fiber plug wires for a while ... they work OK for
awhile but will work "loose" with the "spears" in the cap (the ones you
screw into the wires)

********************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 4:13 PM
Subject: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back into a coma.


> I started my Healey today after 20 years of being asleep.  The problem is 
>that 
> it is difficult to start and only runs for at most 45 seconds.  It cranks 
>over 
> easily. I think that I have narrowed the problem to the ign.  There is plenty 
> of fuel.  The spark is not nice and blue and fat.  It fires right away on 
>ether
> 
> but I do not like to use ether on a fresh motor. The spark is small and very 
> wimpy.  I have tried four different coils.  New points, new condensor, new 
>plug
> 
> wires, new plugs.  Could the wires have too much resistance, they are carbon 
> fiber for an electronic ign?  Any ideas are greatly appreciated!!!!
> 
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7 





From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 19:26:45 -0600
Subject: Brakes Lines, Brake line segments, Fuel Lines, etc.

Noticed  in this afternoons posts where were requests for
brake lines and parts of brake lines; and a request for
Mr. Finespanners e-mail address.  If  you wish to
obtain brake lines or fuel lines from Mr. Finespanner, one way you
can is go to www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca , and to the
technical section on this web site.  Under Mr. Finespanners
Workbench there is a mail link to contact Mr. Finespanner
(Doug Reid).  You can request from Doug individual
segments of brake line to a complete set for your
particular model of Healey.  You will of course have to
ask for a  price and shipping quote.

My own experience with Doug is he is responsive, there
is a quick turn around time, and the product is excellent.
I used his product on my rear disc brake conversion.
By the way there is nothing in this  for me except helping
both parties.

Now for a little advertising, if you would like to learn
a little bit about the  Canadian prairies my web site was
set up to provide some of that information via what I
call "virtual tours".  These are drives (tours)  that Margaret and I
have taken to various locations in the  Canadian prairies.
In addition I have added a technical section which I hope
will grow along with the "virtual tour" side and some
prairie (my) humour, so enjoy.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4





From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 20:55:48 -0500
Subject: RE: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back into a coma.

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of dicksonr@uwm.edu
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 7:13 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back into a coma.

I started my Healey today after 20 years of being asleep.  The problem
is that 
it is difficult to start and only runs for at most 45 seconds.  It
cranks over 
easily. I think that I have narrowed the problem to the ign.  There is
plenty 
of fuel.  The spark is not nice and blue and fat.  It fires right away
on ether

but I do not like to use ether on a fresh motor. The spark is small and
very 
wimpy.  I have tried four different coils.  New points, new condensor,
new plug

wires, new plugs.  Could the wires have too much resistance, they are
carbon 
fiber for an electronic ign?  Any ideas are greatly appreciated!!!!

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7 





From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 21:00:51 -0500
Subject: BJ8 dash removal

I'm pulling the dash out of my BJ8 today to fix a couple things and 
refinish the wood grain. The only question I have is about the 
temperature gauge. Can it be removed without pulling the sender out in 
the engine bay? What are all the little screws on the bottom of the 
gauge? If need be, I'll pull the works back through the firewall, but 
was hoping for a shortcut. PO had the upholstery shop cover the cracked 
wood finish with matching vinyl. It looks real nice, but it ain't right, 
so I'm gonna fix it.

Thanks
Dave





from the dash first.
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 21:44:57 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 dash removal

Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Carpenter" <d.carpenter7@verizon.net>
To: "Healey List (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 9:00 PM
Subject: BJ8 dash removal


> Hi all,
>
> I'm pulling the dash out of my BJ8 today to fix a couple things and
> refinish the wood grain. The only question I have is about the
> temperature gauge. Can it be removed without pulling the sender out in
> the engine bay? What are all the little screws on the bottom of the
> gauge? If need be, I'll pull the works back through the firewall, but
> was hoping for a shortcut. PO had the upholstery shop cover the cracked
> wood finish with matching vinyl. It looks real nice, but it ain't right,
> so I'm gonna fix it.
>
> Thanks
> Dave





From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 22:08:59 EST
Subject: Re: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back into a coma.

David Nock . Sheila (Nock) Huggins . Norman Nock ... British Car Specialists 
, 2060 N wilson Way , Stockton , C.A . (209)948-8767  .. FAX # (209)948-1030  
.. britishcardoc@sbcglobal.net





From HealeyBN7 at aol.com
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 22:22:25 EST
Subject: Triplex Windscreens

Dave M.
61 BN7
Hoping to be running by May(ish) in Michigan





From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 19:25:53 -0800
Subject: ebay scams





From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 21:55:01 -0600
Subject: More on: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back into a

I may just remove it tommorrow but the float bowls were overflowing without it 
inline.   New fuel line, rebuilt carbs.  I'm starting them without the filters 
so that I can see the pistons move and make sure that they are moving ok.  New 
engine, timed correctly.  Valves adjusted to .012.  No apparent vaccum leaks, I

re-tightened the manifolds.

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 21:35:08 -0700
Subject: Re: More on: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back into

I would still suggest checking for fuel as Michael suggests. If you 
don't have an acetylene torch, a common propane torch should work. A 
very quick & easy test.

Dave Russell

dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> A few other variables that I should include.  New gas tank, new gas.  New 
>fuel 
> pump.  Although it is a cheap NAPA pump that people have been talking about 
> recently.  I do have a fuel pressure regulator in line as well.  I have set 
> this from 1.5 all the way to 5 and no difference was seen in starting 
>ability. 
> 
> I may just remove it tommorrow but the float bowls were overflowing without 
>it 
> inline.   New fuel line, rebuilt carbs.  I'm starting them without the 
>filters 
> so that I can see the pistons move and make sure that they are moving ok.  
>New 
> engine, timed correctly.  Valves adjusted to .012.  No apparent vaccum leaks, 
>I
> 
> re-tightened the manifolds.
> 
> Randy Dickson





From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 22:47:08 -0600
Subject: Re: More on: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back into

I hadn't heard fo the propane/gas test good idea.

Good Luck

Greg Lemon
54 BN1





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 23:12:27 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 dash removal

You have to pull the entire thing back out through the firewall. The 
gage is a sealed one piece unit with the sender. If you separate the 
gage from the sender or even cause a leak, the ether will leak out & no 
gage nomore.

Dave Russell

Dave Carpenter wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm pulling the dash out of my BJ8 today to fix a couple things and 
> refinish the wood grain. The only question I have is about the 
> temperature gauge. Can it be removed without pulling the sender out in 
> the engine bay? What are all the little screws on the bottom of the 
> gauge? If need be, I'll pull the works back through the firewall, but 
> was hoping for a shortcut. PO had the upholstery shop cover the cracked 
> wood finish with matching vinyl. It looks real nice, but it ain't right, 
> so I'm gonna fix it.
> 
> Thanks
> Dave





From Charlie Frazer <cfrazer at ballmer.uoregon.edu>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 11:24:52 -0800
Subject: Engine Cradle





From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 23:56:50 -0800
Subject: Sebring Sprite specs





From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 09:46:48 -0000
Subject: Re: Triplex Windscreens

Kindest regards

Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk

Now offering quality Sealey tools at discount prices, see www.ccw-tools.co.uk
for further details.

----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyBN7@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 3:22 AM
Subject: Triplex Windscreens


> Well, my windscreen is knackered.  There was some discussion about the
> Triplex glass a while back, which I found in the archives, but I don't
recall any
> resolution on availability from ProSource Glass International.  Are they a
> current source?  If so, is there a contact?  If not, any good/better/best
> alternative suggestions for new windscreen glass?  Also, while I'm in here -
any
> sources for a pass-side A pillar?  I have found none among the usual
suspects.
> Thanks!
>
> Dave M.
> 61 BN7
> Hoping to be running by May(ish) in Michigan





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 08:05:20 -0500
Subject: RE: BJ8 dash removal

Let me know if you want to borrow it---
Tom


> [Original Message]
> From: Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7@verizon.net>
> To: Healey List (E-mail) <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/20/04 9:01:04 PM
> Subject: BJ8 dash removal
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm pulling the dash out of my BJ8 today to fix a couple things and 
> refinish the wood grain. The only question I have is about the 
> temperature gauge. Can it be removed without pulling the sender out in 
> the engine bay? What are all the little screws on the bottom of the 
> gauge? If need be, I'll pull the works back through the firewall, but 
> was hoping for a shortcut. PO had the upholstery shop cover the cracked 
> wood finish with matching vinyl. It looks real nice, but it ain't right, 
> so I'm gonna fix it.
>
> Thanks
> Dave





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 08:13:09 -0500
Subject: Re: More on: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back

Tom


> [Original Message]
> From: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>
> To: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>; <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
> Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/20/04 11:58:42 PM
> Subject: Re: More on: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back intoa
coma.
>
> Are you pulling fuel from a fuel tank that has been sitting for 20 years
and
> is 40 years or so old?  I have seen quite a few cars with clogged up fule
> lines that will exhibit the same behavior, gas can seep through the
> sediment, but the more you suck up the slower it feeds til eventually it
> can't keep up.
>
> I hadn't heard fo the propane/gas test good idea.
>
> Good Luck
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 08:32:10 -0500
Subject: Parts

1.  old speedo face and gears for an "older Healey"  Gold face----well
worn----free--just pay shipping (shipping is $500 $$$) :):):):)---JOKE!
2.  windshield wiper motor with cable for a BJ8--not sure if other models
use it----no idea what it should sell for.--offers?
3.  BMC radio (no face plate or knobs)---$10 plus shipping
4.  Becker Europa II Sterio radio---VG physical condition--do not know if
it works---$25--shipping

Contact off list please  

tom





From "Martin Heim" <bn4 at onlinehome.de>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 14:26:58 +0100
Subject: Re: Trunnion bushings II - Thanks

many thanks for all the thoughts (also many thanks to Udo Putzke for his
german written extensive mail) - all together made me uncertain what to do.

It took a while for me to find the time to dissasemble the trunnion/kingpin
the second time (there has been another issue before). I think I need to
secure the bushes with some set screws to avoid any rotating and I also need
to find a place for a grease nipple to get the bolt lubricated. When you
tighten both nuts the trunnion is still movable sideways a bit( 0.75mm ). I
will use some washers to adjust the play to around 0.1 - 0.2mm.
The bushes had also to be reamed a bit as probably the bores in the trunnion
casting do not line up exactly. Rubber bushes wouldn't mind that.
I have uploaded some pics to http://www.hm-24.de/trunnion/ulthm.htm for
those who would like to see the bolt and bushes.

Best regards

Martin
Germany


**Paul Baker wrote:

I've just changed the offset trunnion bushes on my competition BJ8.  They
were fitted in 1995 of the hard plastic type.  The nearside front bushes had
worn giving too much play for a vigilant MOT tester (mandatory annual check
in the UK) although the offside were fine.  In the 9 years since they were
installed the car took part in numerous international rallys before I bought
it and I have used it for sprint and hillclimbing for the past two years.

When I came to fit the new set (same hard plastic type) getting the camber
right on both sides was impossible so had to fit an adjustable top plate to
one side.  Previous accident damage had clearly changed the chassis setup
and the camber could not been right for some time - but it is now.

Since they were fitted I get less 'creaks' and the handling is much tighter
and more direct - but this is also due to the fact that I changed the anti
roll bar for the 7/8" version.

I will not be putting this mod on my standard road BJ8 as it would remove
some of the pleasure of driving i.e. its more forgiving and comfortable to
drive.





From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at verizon.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 08:54:29 -0500
Subject: 2004 Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix

    17/18July is race weekend, however, there is another race schedule to be
held the weekend before (10\11July) for cars that don't really fit the
Schenley Park venue. This will be at a reasonably local, and new, race track
called BeaveRun.

    If anyone is interested, I can e-forward a couple fliers with the event
schedules and more information; please contact me off-list for that.

    Or, you can skip the middle-man (me) and go to:

                        http://www.pittsburghvintagegrandprix.com

                                        and/or

                        http://www.beaverun.com


    Hope to see lots of you at the races.

                                                                             
               CB

    ps: We will be updating any changes to the Sunday Healey Tent and Show as
soon as they are confirmed.





From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 10:12:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine Cradle

James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II





From "Rick Neves _._" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 10:30:33 -0500
Subject: Rough Running

The carbs were rebuilt which included new jets and needle and Grose jets as
well as all the fiber washers and such.

On a side note, I did discover what was wrong with the  Grose jets and the
continuous leaking of fuel through the drain line, that I was seeing. I had
mistakenly installed rubber washers on the top nut of the float bowl. I guess
this is appropriate for a 100M which has a banjo fitting and an overfill drain
line attached but for a standard 100-4 you actually want this top nut hole to
leak air and that is why there are two slits across the top. The rubber washer
I had installed was nicely blocking this outlet and causing pressure to build
in the float bowl, by the trapped air, and the fuel level was never reaching
the top so that the valve could close. That's why the fuel was just flowing
out to the carb body and down the drain tube.

Anyway, so I fixed that.

More history,
I brought my distributor to my machinist. He has a device for checking out the
operation of the distributor. It basically spins the distributor and checks
for proper spark. With this device you can adjust the gap to the optimal
position so that you get the dwell you want over the entire speed range. He
did discover that I'd assembled the distributor incorrectly. I guess I didn't
get the prongs installed into the weights correctly. Anyway he fixed that and
it ran well.

I reinstalled the distributor and set the timing. The engine fires up right
away. That is nice! And it really required a lot of cranking before. Basically
I think a lot of gas was leaking into chambers and the engine was getting
flooded. The rebuild of the carbs I believe took care of that problem.

Now after running a bit and during acceleration it really runs rough. It seems
to be misfiring and can backfire now and again. I've adjusted the jet
adjusting nut and for once I believe it (The carbs) are working properly since
when I adjust it lean is will start to die when the little piston lift pin is
pushed and when I adjust it rich, I get a slight acceleration. It didn't do
this before I worked on the carbs. Mostly it always behaved like it was rich
and that makes sense since I think it was leaking gas through the well worn
jets.

So what its basically doing is, It starts OK but idles with a misfire every
second or so and when accelerating it really breaks down and can back fire
occasionally.

To me, it really seems like there is something wrong with the ignition but
seeing that the distributor has checked out Ok... Incidentally I changed over
to bumble bee wires and although they look a lot better as far as wire
strands, I got no improvement. The coil is new and the wiring harness is new
as well. All the voltages on the coil are correct.

I should add that for a short period of time before the distributor was worked
on it did run pretty smooth but then started running rough again. This poor
little engine has been through a lot and was flooded a lot before the carbs
were worked on. I'm wondering if the cylinders just have a lot of suit built
up. But shouldn't that burn off pretty quickly? I have pulled out the spark
plugs and cleaned them off. They did have a good build up of suit.

Any Ideas?


Sincerely


Rick Neves
Rough Running '56 BN-2



_._


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.634 / Virus Database: 406 - Release Date: 03/19/2004





From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 10:46:59 EST
Subject: Re: 2004 Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix

Charlie--

Glad you sent me this--I had made my reservations for the wrong (first) 
weekend.  I just called the Holiday Inn University Center and corrected them so 
I 
arrive on Friday, 7/16 and will depart back for Maryland on Sunday after the 
customary mooched lunch at the Three Rivers AHC tent--I assume that Jan Felts' 
employer is doing that wonderful set-up again.  BTW, the HI UC is quite 
convenient to Shenley Park (even I couldn't get lost) and there are lots of 
very 
reasonable food places a short walk away.  I booked a King room for $109 per 
night--not bad.

Seeya then--Michael Oritt 





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 09:17:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Cradle

This may sound strange. About 30 years ago I needed something similar 
for a big Chrysler Hemi. Looked around the shop & spied a Champion brand 
creeper. The kind made out of oak strips &  plywood. It held the 800 lb 
engine just fine & I was able to roll it around anywhere. The plastic 
bottom roller wheels would take a set after a few months & have a slight 
flat spot on the bottoms but still rolled.

More recently, I unloaded a large lathe from the back of my truck & put 
the heavy end on the same creeper. Two people were able to roll the 
lathe across the shop floor to its new home. No one believes this will 
work until they see it. Also moved a washing machine & a piano the same way.

I have no idea if the newer plastic creepers will work the same way.

Dave Russell

Charlie Frazer wrote:
> Does anyone have a design or spec drawing for a crib or dolly to hold a BJ8
> engine and (OD) transmission?  I'd like to be able to move it around in my
> garage while the body work gets done.
> Thanks for suggestions.
> Charlie Frazer





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 09:32:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Rough Running

Glad you are making progress. The 100M also requires a fiber washer with 
relief notches to allow air to pass from the float bowl to the banjo.

I don't think that the soot is causing problems.

Have you double checked the valve lash settings. It kind of sounds like 
you have a tight valve or two.

Dave Russell
BN2

Rick Neves _._ wrote:
> I've spent the last few weeks trying to get my newly rebuilt engine to run
> smoothly.
> 
> The carbs were rebuilt which included new jets and needle and Grose jets as
> well as all the fiber washers and such.
> 
>  I had
> mistakenly installed rubber washers on the top nut of the float bowl. I guess
> this is appropriate for a 100M which has a banjo fitting and an overfill drain
> line attached but for a standard 100-4 you actually want this top nut hole to
> leak air and that is why there are two slits across the top. The rubber washer
> I had installed was nicely blocking this outlet and causing pressure to build
> in the float bowl, by the trapped air, and the fuel level was never reaching
> the top so that the valve could close. That's why the fuel was just flowing
> out to the carb body and down the drain tube.
> 
> Anyway, so I fixed that.
> 
> More history,
> I brought my distributor to my machinist.  Anyway he fixed that and
> it ran well.
> 
> I reinstalled the distributor and set the timing. The engine fires up right
> away. That is nice! 
> 
> Now after running a bit and during acceleration it really runs rough. It seems
> to be misfiring and can backfire now and again.
> So what its basically doing is, It starts OK but idles with a misfire every
> second or so and when accelerating it really breaks down and can back fire
> occasionally.
> 
>  I'm wondering if the cylinders just have a lot of suit built
> up. But shouldn't that burn off pretty quickly? I have pulled out the spark
> plugs and cleaned them off. They did have a good build up of suit.
> 
> Rick Neves
> Rough Running '56 BN-2





From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 11:43:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Lost Parts

with a previous owner. There are many stories of how owners have 
acquired missing parts (unique to their car) through mere luck and 
circumstance.  Many of us have parts we've accumalated over the years 
while restoring our cars. Many of these are unique, with stamped body 
numbers to  identify the car from which they came. If you no longer have 
a need for it,  please contact John je.adams@att.net, if your part is
from 
a 100/4. He may be able to find the owner of the car, put it in his
database 
until contacted  by the owner looking for the part, or tell you if the
car has 
been  identified as "scrapped". This, I believe is true for 100/6 and
some
early 3000's with regards  to cockpit trim being stamped with the body 
number. As Dorothy once said,  "There is no  place like home" and we 
could help these parts find theirs. Thanks.
 
Happy Healeying,
 
Doug


________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!





From "Mark" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 10:57:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Rough Running

Thanks, Mark
BN1
Nashville


From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
Subject: Re: Rough Running


> Rick,
>
> Glad you are making progress. The 100M also requires a fiber washer with
> relief notches to allow air to pass from the float bowl to the banjo.
>
> I don't think that the soot is causing problems.
>
> Have you double checked the valve lash settings. It kind of sounds like
> you have a tight valve or two.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2





From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 09:16:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Rough Running

Try running the engine in a dark (but ventilated) garage.  If your distributor 
cap looks like one of the old science fiction movie robots shorting out, then 
that's (part of) the problem.

Oh yeah, some of the aftermarket plug caps--wire screw-in type--can be
problematic.


bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Rick Neves _._" <Rick@genomictechnologies.com>
Cc: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 8:32 AM
Subject: Re: Rough Running


> Rick,
> 
> Glad you are making progress. The 100M also requires a fiber washer with 
> relief notches to allow air to pass from the float bowl to the banjo.
> 
> I don't think that the soot is causing problems.
> 
> Have you double checked the valve lash settings. It kind of sounds like 
> you have a tight valve or two.
> 
> Dave Russell
> BN2
> 
> Rick Neves _._ wrote:
> > I've spent the last few weeks trying to get my newly rebuilt engine to run
> > smoothly.
> > 
> > The carbs were rebuilt which included new jets and needle and Grose jets as
> > well as all the fiber washers and such.
> > 
> >  I had
> > mistakenly installed rubber washers on the top nut of the float bowl. I 
>guess
> > this is appropriate for a 100M which has a banjo fitting and an overfill 
>drain
> > line attached but for a standard 100-4 you actually want this top nut hole 
>to
> > leak air and that is why there are two slits across the top. The rubber 
>washer
> > I had installed was nicely blocking this outlet and causing pressure to 
>build
> > in the float bowl, by the trapped air, and the fuel level was never reaching
> > the top so that the valve could close. That's why the fuel was just flowing
> > out to the carb body and down the drain tube.
> > 
> > Anyway, so I fixed that.
> > 
> > More history,
> > I brought my distributor to my machinist.  Anyway he fixed that and
> > it ran well.
> > 
> > I reinstalled the distributor and set the timing. The engine fires up right
> > away. That is nice! 
> > 
> > Now after running a bit and during acceleration it really runs rough. It 
>seems
> > to be misfiring and can backfire now and again.
> > So what its basically doing is, It starts OK but idles with a misfire every
> > second or so and when accelerating it really breaks down and can back fire
> > occasionally.
> > 
> >  I'm wondering if the cylinders just have a lot of suit built
> > up. But shouldn't that burn off pretty quickly? I have pulled out the spark
> > plugs and cleaned them off. They did have a good build up of suit.
> > 
> > Rick Neves
> > Rough Running '56 BN-2





From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 12:36:46 EST
Subject: Re: Engine Cradle

I once built a cradle to hold the engine out of some scrap 4x4's and also 
have been known to abuse creepers in my pursuit of Healey Restorations.
Thanks,

Jim Werner
Louisville, KY





From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 11:24:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Rough Running

On the carbs which have a banjo & tube as a bowl vent, the vent path is 
from the bowl, around the outside of the top nut shank, through the 
washer scallops, to the banjo. The fiber washer between bowl top & banjo 
has three small scallops on its inside diameter which provide the air 
path to the banjo. If a non scalloped washer is used, the bowl is sealed 
off from the banjo. No vent. The fiber washers are Moss #370-160. There 
is also an aluminum washer that goes on top side of the banjo.

Dave Russell
BN2 - LeMans engine mods.

Mark wrote:
> Will you elaborate on this carb vent issue at the banjo.  My BN1 has H6's
> (not HS6) carbs and as far as I recall there are no slots on the fiber
> washers in the banjo fittings.  I also have not had a problem with fuel
> leakage since I put in Gross Jets a couple of years ago.  However I did have
> a problem with overflow before I installed the Gross jets.  I just
> attributed to the fact that I was using an aftermarket fuel pump with about
> 3.5 lbs of pressure.
> 
> Thanks, Mark
> BN1
> Nashville





From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 13:42:28 -0500
Subject: Re:Body Part

Happy Healeying,

Doug
'56 BN2

________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!





From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 14:14:42 -0500
Subject: Re: 2004 Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix

> [Original Message]
> From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> To: <cbaustin@verizon.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: <tfelts@prodigy.net>
> Date: 3/21/04 10:47:28 AM
> Subject: Re: 2004 Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix
>
> In a message dated 3/21/2004 8:56:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
> cbaustin@verizon.net writes:
> this year's event:  17/18July is race weekend, however, there is another
race 
> schedule to be held the weekend before (10\11July) for cars that don't
really 
> fit the
> Schenley Park venue. This will be at a reasonably local, and new, race
track
> called BeaveRun.
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> Charlie--
>
> Glad you sent me this--I had made my reservations for the wrong (first) 
> weekend.  I just called the Holiday Inn University Center and corrected
them so I 
> arrive on Friday, 7/16 and will depart back for Maryland on Sunday after
the 
> customary mooched lunch at the Three Rivers AHC tent--I assume that Jan
Felts' 
> employer is doing that wonderful set-up again.  BTW, the HI UC is quite 
> convenient to Shenley Park (even I couldn't get lost) and there are lots
of very 
> reasonable food places a short walk away.  I booked a King room for $109
per 
> night--not bad.
>
> Seeya then--Michael Oritt 





From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 14:44:00 -0600
Subject: The Latest: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back intoa

to adjust this float but it made no difference, it still leaked.  New needles 
and seats. The kind where their is a little nylon piece that fits inside of the

brass seat and their is a little spring loaded brass rod inside of the needle. 
The book says to set this at 3/16.  Is that when the spring loaded rod is 
depressed full or the float just touches it?  I tried both.  Also, I have the 
nylon floats. 

Well, so I assumed that it was getting enough gas so I tried to start it 
anyway.  I initially started it and it ran for about 1 and 1/2 minutes with me 
fiddling with the chokes up and down the entire time to keep the engine from 
stalling.  No leaking out of the float bowl overflow. It would run fine at 
about 2500 -3000 rpm but any lower than that and it would just die.   2500-3000

is way too high for a fresh motor anyway.  Then I shut the engine down due to 
too high of revs and then I tried to restart. It would only run for about 5-10 
seconds with me playing with the chokes.  Eventually I checked the plugs.  They

were slightly fowled.  Too much choking, too rich.  Carb cleaner, then 
reinstalled them. Too rich, but this is the only way that the engine would run.
It almost seems like a vaccum leak to me with such an unsteady idle and 
difficulty starting.  However, I checked everything that could cause a leak.  I

may pull the rebuilt carbs and examine them closer.  Now I'm wondering it the 
needles that came on the carbs which were on my Healey are correct.  Maybe they

are just too worn.  I have new jets installed. Incorrect or wrong needles might

explain why it will not idle except at higher rpm. Anybody have similar 
experiences and what did you do? Any suggestions or comments are greatly 
appreciated.  I plan on ordering new needles as well as new flot needles and 
seats, (Gross jets) tommorrow. Thanks a lot!

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7





From Barry <BlueSky at execpc.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 15:12:11 -0600
Subject: Re: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back into a coma.

CONGRATULATIONS!   Sorry about running problems.   My BJ7 manifests similar
symptoms.... at least it did last fall.  Got to get it on the road this spring.

When the tax season is over, I will have at it again.  If you get the Beast
running, common down to Milwaukee on a "test run".  Maybe we can deal on the BT7
you saw on my slab.   Something has got to go  TR3 or Healey BT7 or BJ7.  
Probably
the Triumph.  My Spec Miata is going to take up lots of my time racing, prep, 
etc.

I'll watch the suggestions on the list.  Maybe it will solve your problems and
mine.

Barry

> I started my Healey today after 20 years of being asleep.  The problem is that
> it is difficult to start and only runs for at most 45 seconds.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist





From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 17:59:01 -0500
Subject: Aluminum anodizing

Thanks,

Mick Vander Ploeg
Raleigh, NC
'57 BN4





From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 18:02:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Rough Running

Have you checked for proper oil level in the dampers?

Keith Pennell

> I've spent the last few weeks trying to get my newly rebuilt engine to run
> smoothly.
>
> The carbs were rebuilt which included new jets and needle and Grose jets
as
> well as all the fiber washers and such.
>
> On a side note, I did discover what was wrong with the  Grose jets and the
> continuous leaking of fuel through the drain line, that I was seeing. I
had
> mistakenly installed rubber washers on the top nut of the float bowl. I
guess
> this is appropriate for a 100M which has a banjo fitting and an overfill
drain
> line attached but for a standard 100-4 you actually want this top nut hole
to
> leak air and that is why there are two slits across the top. The rubber
washer
> I had installed was nicely blocking this outlet and causing pressure to
build
> in the float bowl, by the trapped air, and the fuel level was never
reaching
> the top so that the valve could close. That's why the fuel was just
flowing
> out to the carb body and down the drain tube.
>
> Anyway, so I fixed that.
>
> More history,
> I brought my distributor to my machinist. He has a device for checking out
the
> operation of the distributor. It basically spins the distributor and
checks
> for proper spark. With this device you can adjust the gap to the optimal
> position so that you get the dwell you want over the entire speed range.
He
> did discover that I'd assembled the distributor incorrectly. I guess I
didn't
> get the prongs installed into the weights correctly. Anyway he fixed that
and
> it ran well.
>
> I reinstalled the distributor and set the timing. The engine fires up
right
> away. That is nice! And it really required a lot of cranking before.
Basically
> I think a lot of gas was leaking into chambers and the engine was getting
> flooded. The rebuild of the carbs I believe took care of that problem.
>
> Now after running a bit and during acceleration it really runs rough. It
seems
> to be misfiring and can backfire now and again. I've adjusted the jet
> adjusting nut and for once I believe it (The carbs) are working properly
since
> when I adjust it lean is will start to die when the little piston lift pin
is
> pushed and when I adjust it rich, I get a slight acceleration. It didn't
do
> this before I worked on the carbs. Mostly it always behaved like it was
rich
> and that makes sense since I think it was leaking gas through the well
worn
> jets.
>
> So what its basically doing is, It starts OK but idles with a misfire
every
> second or so and when accelerating it really breaks down and can back fire
> occasionally.
>
> To me, it really seems like there is something wrong with the ignition but
> seeing that the distributor has checked out Ok... Incidentally I changed
over
> to bumble bee wires and although they look a lot better as far as wire
> strands, I got no improvement. The coil is new and the wiring harness is
new
> as well. All the voltages on the coil are correct.
>
> I should add that for a short period of time before the distributor was
worked
> on it did run pretty smooth but then started running rough again. This
poor
> little engine has been through a lot and was flooded a lot before the
carbs
> were worked on. I'm wondering if the cylinders just have a lot of suit
built
> up. But shouldn't that burn off pretty quickly? I have pulled out the
spark
> plugs and cleaned them off. They did have a good build up of suit.
>
> Any Ideas?
>
>
> Sincerely
>
>
> Rick Neves
> Rough Running '56 BN-2





From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 15:07:06 -0800
Subject: Re: The Latest: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back

Going to give this a try:

I think your fuel pressure is too high.  If the regulator is reading in
pounds and is reasonably accurate, cut it back to about 2 1/2 - SU carbs
will flood at a little over 3 pounds pressure regardless of the needle and
seat - it's the way they were designed.  The original fuel pumps were
designed to give the correct pressure without a regulator.

Your aftermarket pump may be a constant-run bypass type - nothing wrong with
that as far as it goes - it will continue to run even if the carbs are full
and no fuel is required (as in engine off, key on).  If your replacement
pump is a diaphragm type, the pump should fill the lines & float bowls and
then stop pumping (except for the odd widely spaced beat) when the needles
have closed - again key on, engine not running.

Your BJ7 carbs are HS6's (if they are original) and as far as I can tell,
should have nylon floats (same as the later tri-carbs).  The original nylon
floats have a metal pivot strap that allows the float level adjustment by
gently bending the strap. (Some of the replacement nylon floats are all
nylon and are not adjustable).  As far as I can tell, the original nylon
float equipped cars should have a float level setting of 1/8" - this is
right out of my workshop manual, and I'm pretty sure that the BJ7 should be
set this way.  (I run this float setting in my nylon float tri-carb).  The
level setting should be made with the float lever resting lightly on the
little spring-rod thingy - not compressed.

I am a fan of Grose-jets, as long as you have the 'good' ones, and I'm not
sure that they are currently available.  My advice to you would be to get
the engine running reasonably well before you make a lot of changes that
might 'muddy the waters' so to speak.  If you've got spark, and the basic
ignition timing is close to where it should be, and float level is correct,
and the float set up is working properly - ie: not flooding, you should be
able to get the engine running well enough to be able to warm it up and get
the mixtures, idle, etc. in the ballpark.

Worn mixture metering needles shouldn't have that great of an effect at the
moment - they will make it harder to fine-tune the carbs later.  It would be
worth checking to see that both needles are correctly clamped in their
pistons - problems there can produce some of the symptoms that you describe.

As another lister suggested, it may be worthwhile checking the fuel flow -
disconnect the main fuel line from the tank at the front carb and turn on
the key for a few seconds with the line held over a suitable container.

Hope this helps, let us know - told you it would take a lot of beer to get
one of these bloody things running!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 12:44 PM
Subject: The Latest: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back intoa
coma.


First of all, thanks for all of the advise on solving this problem of engine
not wanting to run.  Today I went out to the garage and checked out
everything
that everyone suggested.  The float bowls are full of gas when I set my fuel
regulator at 4 or 5.  The aftermarket pump runs all of the time. So much so
that the right side float bowl leaks out the overflow hose.  I tried
repeatedly

to adjust this float but it made no difference, it still leaked.  New
needles
and seats. The kind where their is a little nylon piece that fits inside of
the

brass seat and their is a little spring loaded brass rod inside of the
needle.
The book says to set this at 3/16.  Is that when the spring loaded rod is
depressed full or the float just touches it?  I tried both.  Also, I have
the
nylon floats.

Well, so I assumed that it was getting enough gas so I tried to start it
anyway.  I initially started it and it ran for about 1 and 1/2 minutes with
me
fiddling with the chokes up and down the entire time to keep the engine from
stalling.  No leaking out of the float bowl overflow. It would run fine at
about 2500 -3000 rpm but any lower than that and it would just die.
2500-3000

is way too high for a fresh motor anyway.  Then I shut the engine down due
to
too high of revs and then I tried to restart. It would only run for about
5-10
seconds with me playing with the chokes.  Eventually I checked the plugs.
They

were slightly fowled.  Too much choking, too rich.  Carb cleaner, then
reinstalled them. Too rich, but this is the only way that the engine would
run.
It almost seems like a vaccum leak to me with such an unsteady idle and
difficulty starting.  However, I checked everything that could cause a leak.
I

may pull the rebuilt carbs and examine them closer.  Now I'm wondering it
the
needles that came on the carbs which were on my Healey are correct.  Maybe
they

are just too worn.  I have new jets installed. Incorrect or wrong needles
might

explain why it will not idle except at higher rpm. Anybody have similar
experiences and what did you do? Any suggestions or comments are greatly
appreciated.  I plan on ordering new needles as well as new flot needles and
seats, (Gross jets) tommorrow. Thanks a lot!

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7





From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 15:55:32 -0800
Subject: Broken oil ring on 5 ring pistons 


2nd question:   Has anyone used the Clevite 77 assembly lubricant?  This stuff
is very thick and sticky.  So thick, it makes the cam hard to turn in the
bearings.

thanks

Jerry





From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 19:30:09 -0500
Subject: Re: The Latest: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 3:44 PM
Subject: The Latest: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back intoa
coma.





From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 16:42:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Aluminum anodizing

If your scratches are too deep, he may not be able to save them.  By the
time he buffs out the scratches there will be dimples in the material.  One
solution to this is to have the scratches filled w/ JB Weld and then have
them powder coated silver. You need to tell him exactly what you have and
what you want.

Perry is at:  360-674-3825.

John Snyder


> I'm looking for a reliable, reputable company that performs aluminum
polishing
> and anodizing.  I need the aluminum cockpit surround and side curtains for
my
> BN4 cleaned up and clear anodized.  They're currently in lousy shape with
lots
> of scratches.  I'm willing to ship these pieces anywhere in the country,
for
> the right company.  You may recall my chrome plating saga a while back
where
> they lost half of the parts that I shipped them.  I can't have the same
> mistake with these pieces.  The cockpit surround has the correct body
number
> stamped on the back (can't be replaced) , and the sidecurtains are the
funky
> ones for the Longbridge built BN4's (mighty tough to replace).  Any
> recommendations?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> Raleigh, NC
> '57 BN4





From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 20:00:03 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 dash removal

Should I assemble into one unit first, or stand on my head and try to 
put all the little wood screws in from behind. The repro wood that I'm 
putting in for now has no holes in the back as yet.

Once I get the originals refinished, I get to go through this again in 
the fall.

Dave

tom felts wrote:

>Don't think it can Dave.  I made up a special socket (with a slit in one
>side) to remove it from the engine.  then you pull the whole thing up
>through the dash.
>
>Let me know if you want to borrow it---
>Tom
>
>
>  
>
>>[Original Message]
>>From: Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7@verizon.net>
>>To: Healey List (E-mail) <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>Date: 3/20/04 9:01:04 PM
>>Subject: BJ8 dash removal
>>
>>Hi all,
>>
>>I'm pulling the dash out of my BJ8 today to fix a couple things and 
>>refinish the wood grain. The only question I have is about the 
>>temperature gauge. Can it be removed without pulling the sender out in 
>>the engine bay? What are all the little screws on the bottom of the 
>>gauge? If need be, I'll pull the works back through the firewall, but 
>>was hoping for a shortcut. PO had the upholstery shop cover the cracked 
>>wood finish with matching vinyl. It looks real nice, but it ain't right, 
>>so I'm gonna fix it.
>>
>>Thanks
>>Dave





From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 20:38:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine Cradle

Dave





From "Don Anglesey" <Don at anglesey.us>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 17:41:04 -0800
Subject: Distributor Oil Seal





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 17:46:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: THE BEAST ROARS TO LIFE,...and then goes back into a coma.

You can't use a carbon core wire set with a standard
healey distributor.  You must use a "solid" core (i.e.
copper wire core) wire set w/ resistor plug ends.

With the carbon/graphite core wires, as soon as you
screw the dist. cap into the wire ends, the connection
will lose much of its conductivity ability.

Been there done that....

Good Luck!

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> I started my Healey today after 20 years of being
> asleep.  The problem is that 
> it is difficult to start and only runs for at most
> 45 seconds.  It cranks over 
> easily. I think that I have narrowed the problem to
> the ign.  There is plenty 
> of fuel.  The spark is not nice and blue and fat. 
> It fires right away on ether
> 
> but I do not like to use ether on a fresh motor. The
> spark is small and very 
> wimpy.  I have tried four different coils.  New
> points, new condensor, new plug
> 
> wires, new plugs.  Could the wires have too much
> resistance, they are carbon 
> fiber for an electronic ign?  Any ideas are greatly
> appreciated!!!!
> 
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7 





From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 19:52:26 -0800
Subject: Cockpit surround modification

Am looking for a source to bend the surround slightly at the ends to fit and
wonder if anyone has created a jig to do this. Please contact me offline.
-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6





From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 06:28:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Rough Running





From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 07:20:04 -0700
Subject: Running after 2 years and BJ8 Tach Question

First..  My BJ8 started beautifully yesterday after doing my ground-up
retoration..  the carb rebuild seems to have gone well.... she settles to a
wonderful smooth pur... the exhaust sounds terrific ....the toyota trans
seem to perform well...  even though I was sitting on a box as I drover her
in the neighborhood....  after a few more tweeks I will install the
interior....

Prior to restoration my tach worked perfectly...  I converted to negative
groud before restoration and made the appropriate changes...  during
restoration I installed a new wiring harness and neglected to look at "Which
direction the wire loop on the back of the tach went" ... stupid me...  I
have actually tried both but seem to get no response.... the new harness
(British wiring) has thinner wire and I have also tried a double loop to try
to get reponse...  If some one could enlighten me on the proper direction of
the loop (for a negative ground) and any other thoughts it would help..
(before I send it to Moma)...

Thanks...

Jim Sailer 66 BJ8





From =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ulf_H=E5kansson_privat?= <hakansson.ulf at telia.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 15:23:09 +0100
Subject: 100M distributor

Ulf
BN2/55





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 06:29:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Someone had a website with urethane gearbox tie rod bushings

I am looking at getting urethatne tie rod bushings for
my centre change gearbox and I seem to remember
someone somewhere has a website with just this item
and even new tie rods for sale.  Can someone point me
in the right direction?  I misplaced that website.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8 





From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 10:01:10 -0500
Subject: RE: Running after 2 years and BJ8 Tach Question

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Sailer
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 9:20 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Running after 2 years and BJ8 Tach Question

Greetings all...  a quick question:

First..  My BJ8 started beautifully yesterday after doing my ground-up
retoration..  the carb rebuild seems to have gone well.... she settles
to a
wonderful smooth pur... the exhaust sounds terrific ....the toyota trans
seem to perform well...  even though I was sitting on a box as I drover
her
in the neighborhood....  after a few more tweeks I will install the
interior....

Prior to restoration my tach worked perfectly...  I converted to
negative
groud before restoration and made the appropriate changes...  during
restoration I installed a new wiring harness and neglected to look at
"Which
direction the wire loop on the back of the tach went" ... stupid me...
I
have actually tried both but seem to get no response.... the new harness
(British wiring) has thinner wire and I have also tried a double loop to
try
to get reponse...  If some one could enlighten me on the proper
direction of
the loop (for a negative ground) and any other thoughts it would help..
(before I send it to Moma)...

Thanks...

Jim Sailer 66 BJ8





From "Wm. \"Kit\" Henry II" <khenry at hmcltd.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 10:37:47 -0500
Subject: Car Related though not a Healey

Kit Henry

65 BJ8
66 XKE
70 Innocenti Mini
85 XJS
54 TF (showroom restoration though a driver for sure !)
67 Anglia (Unassembled)
67 Cortina GT





From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 11:51:23 -0500
Subject: Rusty/dirty coolant





From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 11:19:35 -0600
Subject: RE: Rusty/dirty coolant

If you didn't flush last year before changing, there would still be
likely to be a fair amount of crud lining the water passages, plus the
heater, which never got out and is now happily circulating.

I've always had good success using the flush and fill kits and a bottle
of radiator cleaner from an auto parts store. And I've always been
amazed at how much stuff came out of the system using this method. It's
sometimes taken 10 minutes on some cars before the water runs clean,
even when I thought the fluid was in pretty good shape.

also, once you've done this and replaced with new water/antifreeze, this
should prevent most additional corrosion.

-Graham


-----Original Message-----
From: David Zuiderveld [mailto:davzu29@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 11:51 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Rusty/dirty coolant


My BJ8 has extremely rusty coolant in the radiator.  I changed it last
year using a regular 50/50 mixture, and am surprised it looks so bad
already. Coul there have been some sludge in the block or radiator that
has
dissolved?   Is there anything I can use to prevent or reduce this going
forward?  I'd like to flush it out, but don't want to use one of those
"flush-n-fill" kits where you cut the heater hose and put in a plastic
fitting.  Any ideas? Thanx, David Z.





from ;)
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 15:21:40 -0600
Subject: dragons tail





From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 19:35:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Someone had a website with urethane gearbox tie rod

I used Energy Suspension sway bar link bushings for mine.   I think I bought
the set at Pep Boys.  You are talking about the rod that locates the tranny
front to rear correct?

Cheers,
Chris
BJ8...still fitting panels

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 8:29 AM
Subject: Someone had a website with urethane gearbox tie rod bushings


> Hi -
>
> I am looking at getting urethatne tie rod bushings for
> my centre change gearbox and I seem to remember
> someone somewhere has a website with just this item
> and even new tie rods for sale.  Can someone point me
> in the right direction?  I misplaced that website.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 17:55:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Running after 2 years and BJ8 Tach Question

You should solder bullet connectors on either side of
the loop then simply swap the leads around if the tach
doesn't work.

If the tach still doesn't work after you've switched
the leads either way, then that means the problem is
something else.

Did you ground the tach properly?  BJ8s have a wood
dash so the ground wire becomes critical for
operation.

Also, there are two different types of tachs used on
BJ8s.  Earlier BJ8s (like mine, a '64 sold as a '66 in
California) has a tach that requires that the needle
mount be isolated from the tach chassis... whereas
later BJ8s tachs are designed so that you can simply
change the leads around on the diode. If you have this
earlier type tach, you should send it to a specialist
to convert for you, as its a little complicated. 

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- James Sailer <heliskier@direcway.com> wrote:
> Greetings all...  a quick question:
> 
> First..  My BJ8 started beautifully yesterday after
> doing my ground-up
> retoration..  the carb rebuild seems to have gone
> well.... she settles to a
> wonderful smooth pur... the exhaust sounds terrific
> ....the toyota trans
> seem to perform well...  even though I was sitting
> on a box as I drover her
> in the neighborhood....  after a few more tweeks I
> will install the
> interior....
> 
> Prior to restoration my tach worked perfectly...  I
> converted to negative
> groud before restoration and made the appropriate
> changes...  during
> restoration I installed a new wiring harness and
> neglected to look at "Which
> direction the wire loop on the back of the tach
> went" ... stupid me...  I
> have actually tried both but seem to get no
> response.... the new harness
> (British wiring) has thinner wire and I have also
> tried a double loop to try
> to get reponse...  If some one could enlighten me on
> the proper direction of
> the loop (for a negative ground) and any other
> thoughts it would help..
> (before I send it to Moma)...
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> Jim Sailer 66 BJ8





From "Lynda Lawrence" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 19:04:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Lost Parts

Bill Lawrence


On Mar 21, 2004, at 9:43 AM, Douglas W Flagg wrote:

>  I have been thinking about a comment in a post of John Adams,
>  "This is one of the things Registries exist for to my mind." It
>  reminded me of how I was able to locate the last original cockpit
> trim piece  for my '56 BN2, the result of a remark about it while 
> talking
>
> with a previous owner. There are many stories of how owners have
> acquired missing parts (unique to their car) through mere luck and
> circumstance.  Many of us have parts we've accumalated over the years
> while restoring our cars. Many of these are unique, with stamped body
> numbers to  identify the car from which they came. If you no longer 
> have
> a need for it,  please contact John je.adams@att.net, if your part is
> from
> a 100/4. He may be able to find the owner of the car, put it in his
> database
> until contacted  by the owner looking for the part, or tell you if the
> car has
> been  identified as "scrapped". This, I believe is true for 100/6 and
> some
> early 3000's with regards  to cockpit trim being stamped with the body
> number. As Dorothy once said,  "There is no  place like home" and we
> could help these parts find theirs. Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug





From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 21:57:33 EST
Subject: modified Healey

http://www.autosalon-singen.de/Katalogfahrzeug_RecordView_DetailAll.cfm?fahr
zeugID=08962_0023_06_02&languageID=GB

Thanks,

Jim Werner
Louisville, KY





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 19:10:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Quaif rear end - Standard BJ8

With Lempert's 3.54 sets almost available, I'm
considering putting in a Quaif limited slip diff in at
the same time.

I know these are usually used for racing - is there
any advantage to having this in on basically a
modestly uprated standard BJ8 used for driving on the
road?

My key questions are:

1) will it hurt mileage?
2) will it give me any better grip in rain or in
dirt/mud?
3) It's hard to spin the tires as it is (I have 185 70
R15 tires on the car) so maybe I don't need it?
4) Since I would basically be putting in a freeway
ring and pinion on the car, maybe I should be avoiding
the limited slip diff, right?

Any reflection on this is appreciated.

Thanks in Advnace,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8





From Greg Wilkinson <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 22:19:32 -0500
Subject: Brake Bleeding

Greg,
67 BJ8





From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 22:36:11 EST
Subject: Re: Lost Parts

Steve Mickelson

In a message dated 3/22/2004 6:05:06 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
ynotink@qwest.net writes:

> Hmm! Interesting subject. Has anyone seen the trim for car #554? The 
> ones on my car are from #13854, which I think, was scrapped.





From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 19:54:01 -0800
Subject: clogged tank filter





From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 20:06:57 -0800
Subject: 100-4 problem





From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 22:24:35 -0600
Subject: THE BEAST ROARS AND STAYS ALIVE!!!!!

differently that the other 7 times I adjusted it but it stopped, and no there 
was no dirt or grit in the bowl.  I also changed the 10w-40 motor oil in the 
dash pots to straight 20w and lowed the amount.  I also turned the jet nuts 
down 8 flats.  I think that the latter two moves made the biggest difference.  
Anyway, the car started and stayed running.  It sounded great.  I did all of 
this in the back of my garage.  I have a large piece of plastic drainage tubing

around the tailpipe.  Of course after a while the hot gases started to melt the

tubing and a large hole started to develope.  I quickly patched the hole with a

little of the magic "silver" tape.  My carbon monoxide detector started to get 
high even with two fans, two windows and a garage door open so I shut the 
engine down.  I'll wait until it warms up outside and time and tune the Beast 
further.
Next, I will finish the wiring, clutch hydraulics, drive the Beast and try out 
the new clutch and gearbox.  Then I'll tackle the body work.  Again, thanks to 
all of you who gave me advice.  It really helped out.  HBJ7L20,040 is alive and

well after a 21 year coma.  Toss down a cold one for the Beast!

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7





From "Lynda Lawrence" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 21:37:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Lost Parts

Bill

On Mar 22, 2004, at 8:36 PM, SMickel950@aol.com wrote:

> No but the alumin(i)um bonnet from car body #2806 is for sale on eBay.
>
>  Steve Mickelson
>
>  In a message dated 3/22/2004 6:05:06 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
> ynotink@qwest.net writes:
>
>
> Hmm! Interesting subject. Has anyone seen the trim for car #554? The
>  ones on my car are from #13854, which I think, was scrapped.





From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 23:04:09 -0600
Subject: Re: modified Healey

Very pretty car thou and very much like the quality of work I saw while I
was in Germany from 1990-1993

Keith Turk
Bonneville World record holder
D Gas modified sports 246.555 mph
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 8:57 PM
Subject: modified Healey


> Check out this uniquely modified Healey, sort of a Bonneville/ rally car
> combination
>
>
http://www.autosalon-singen.de/Katalogfahrzeug_RecordView_DetailAll.cfm?fahr
> zeugID=08962_0023_06_02&languageID=GB
>
> Thanks,





From "Bluechipracing" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 00:15:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding

Jim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson@adelphia.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 10:19 PM
Subject: Brake Bleeding


> Hi All,
> Just got my Russell Performance catalog in the mail. Out of all the cool
stuff they have, one thing caught my eye. Speed Bleeders. It's a one way
bleeder valve that replaces the original valve, no buddy system, no funky
pumps. Think I'm going to pick up five of 'em. Check it out at
www.russellperformance.com. No financial blah, blah, blah.





From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Lawrence P. Mercier" <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 21:18:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 100-4 problem

The 100-4 has a small metal heat shield about 5"
square located where the throttle link for the
carburator pivots on the exhaust manifold.

Certainly this heat shield is adequate at best, but I
drive my BN1 in N. California where the heat isn't a
problem.

I can see addition of some asbestos sheeting should
help here, particularly working to keep the rear float
bowl cool.

hope that helps,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- James Shope <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com> wrote:
> had our long awaited rally for the british auto club
> this weekend.  no cars
> crapped out even though the temp got to 92 degrees. 
> lot of sunburned drivers
> and pax.  the lady with the 100-4 seemed to be
> r
<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>
  • RE: Screwed on the Internet, Unknown <=