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Re: Door striker mechanism query

To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Door striker mechanism query
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 09:37:48 -0400
Simon,
You wrote<snip>

The casting was cracked right there.And I'll replace that entire mechanism. I
guess that I'll be able to do so.

  a) AH Spares has them.
    On a matter of detail, the mechanism was broken in a number of places and
this had happened over a period of time. God alone knows how/why it had
functioned. The extent of the damage and its longevity may explain the "kink"
in the flat rod, below??
    Last thing to check is that the flat pull rod may be (or may not be) bent
    appropriately to change it's effective length."

    Now, this is the remaining issue. I don't know what the flat pull rod is
supposed to be like when it's new/perfect. Let me describe mine to you.
Remember this is RHS (UK driver's).:-Seen from the side - looking at the flat
side - itis straight until +/- 17/8 in from the door catch end. It then bends
slightly downwards.
    Seen from above, at its narrow edge, itturns towards the dooras sonn as it
seperates from the interior door handle, as it seems to do in the parts book.
91/2 inch from where it pivots off the door handle mechanism itkinks towards
the door skin by about1/2in and then kinks back to it originaltrack, the width
of the kink being +/- 3in.

    Now, I can take the central kink out, but I'd never staighten the end
bit.

    So, can you recall the details? It's the downward turn at the end that
concerns me. I cannot get a good feel at the one on the the other side and the
illustration in the parts book is not adeqate.

    a) I would suggest you do not change the shape of the flat rod at all
until you get things back together with the new latch assembly. The bend down
at the back end is correct. The other bends are also possibly original
adjustments.
    Also don't be tempted to straighten the latch mounting plate in any way. I
know it will likely look rather bent and uneven, but this is some of the
original works fiddling to get the optimum fit.
    Something I didn't mention earlier, if the male striker is worn (and it
probably will be) you may want to replace it too.
    The final result you want to aim for is to be able to close the door with
a firm double click of the mechanism, and the door to wing match to be
perfect. A slight bit of fine oil on the new latch assembly before
installation, and a bit of white petroleum jelly on the latch pin and wedge
surfaces (in case clothing makes contact) will aid geatly in the ease of
closing.
    If the geometry of the car has changed (due to inner sill deterioration or
door hinge wear) and allowed the door to drop compared to the rear wing, a bit
of vertical fiddling of the striker on the door post may be needed.
    Rich Chrysler





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