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Re: fresh air in the cockpit

To: linwood rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>, list healey
Subject: Re: fresh air in the cockpit
From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2004 18:20:06 -0700 (PDT)
Lin -

If I were you I would keep the heater motor and use it
as a fan to force cool air into the cockpit.  That way
you can keep the ducting as is, and your cool air will
have more flow.

By the way I know several people on the list that have
bought 4" diameter inline boat blower motors to force
cool air through the left hand side ducting, achieving
the very same result (you can see what one looks like
here:
http://www.hopkins-carter.com/catalog/Blowers.htm ).

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

--- linwood rose <linwoodrose@mac.com> wrote:
> This is a question soliciting ideas and opinions as
> there cannot be any 
> "right" answer. I have purchased and will be
> installing the "modern" 
> heater sold by Cape International. It is very
> compact and appears to be 
> well assembled, but I have not wired it up yet to
> see how it works. It 
> has a two speed fan. The consequence of all that is
> that I will no 
> longer have the heater blower located on the right
> wheel well. I want 
> to use this opportunity to get some fresh air into
> the passenger side 
> of the car - LHD.
> 
> I have purchased an extra fresh air intake assembly
> and I am planning 
> to install it on the right front of the car where
> the air hose opening 
> to the heater fan is. I also purchased a control
> cable and knob that 
> will allow me to open and close the fresh air access
> just as we do now 
> on the driver's (LHD) side. The control cable will
> run along the bottom 
> of he hose instead of the top since you must invert
> the assembly.
> 
> This is where I need ideas -
> 
> One option, and probably the easiest, is to run a 4"
> duct hose straight 
> from the air intake assembly to the 3" hole in the
> firewall where the 
> reduced size hose from the heater used to go. I have
> another mounting 
> ring like the one on the driver's side that could be
> trimmed down and 
> made to work to secure the hose to the wall. This
> brings the air in 
> high and up and behind the fascia.
> 
> A second option might be make an adapter plate for
> the air intake 
> assembly to reduce the size of the exit pipe to the
> 3" hose or even to 
> one or two of the small demist size hoses to run to
> the firewall. The 
> 3" hose could go to the 3" hole in the firewall
> (still high) or the 
> hose or hoses could be directed to the passenger
> footbox where the 
> blanking plate is for the master cylinders for a RHD
> car.
> 
> I am sure that there are other good options to
> consider and now is the 
> time to do this while the car is completely
> disassembled.
> 
> I should have mentioned that the new heater uses the
> original fascia 
> control plate and knobs. The  temperature is
> controlled by the 
> slide/switch at the center. The blower is turned on
> by pushing/pulling 
> the little knob and the water flow is controlled
> like the original by 
> sliding the knob from left to right.
> 
> That means that the right hand knob is now available
> to attach a longer 
> cable and go to the right air intake assembly
> control.
> 
> Any ideas? I am open to possibilities short of
> leaving as original or 
> going all the way to air conditioning!
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Lin Rose
> 1960 BT7 in restoration
> 1959 Bugeye





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