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Re: turn signal cancelling

To: "John O'Brien" <banjojohn@cox.net>,
Subject: Re: turn signal cancelling
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2004 07:57:23 -0800
John,


I've been fighting this battle for years.  My turn signals not cancelling is the
only thing that doesn't work on my BJ8 (they work perfectly on the 100M).

The "trafficator" is an inherently weak design.  Usually, they quit working 
because 
the bakelite (I think the aftermarket ones are plastic) surrounding the two 
flexible
tangs--they hinge to allow the steering wheel to turn in the direction of the 
turn w/o cancelling--either wears or breaks.  There is little you can do; I've
tried building up the bakelite/plastic with epoxy, but the repair doesn't hold
for long.  The aftermarket replacement unit (about $250!) was poorly molded
and I had to get grind the plastic to make it work at all, then it broke after 
a 
few thousand miles.  The tangs have two little pegs on either side that slide
in small grooves in the housing to keep them aligned.  If this groove is not
aligned properly or wears you are generally SOL, as well.

There is a metal "shroud" (can't think of a more correct word) that turns with
the wheel and pushes either of the two tangs, which move the contactor switch
off-center to cancel the signalling.  This is a (relatively) heavy piece of 
steel but
I suppose it could be bent as an "adjustment," but the problem is weak design
to begin with and any flaw or wear in the plastic surround and the signals won't
cancel.

Another problem--especially with the aftermarket part--is the hub rubbing 
against
the wheel (I have a Derrington wheel so it might be a problem with that 
particular
installation, the 100M wheel is stock and doesn't have the problem).  This 
causes
the trafficator to try to turn with the wheel, which stresses the end of the 
slot in
the stator tube.  Eventually, the stator cracks at the corner of the slot (it's 
cut square,
not radiused like it should be) and you have to replace the stator tube (lot's 
of fun ;).
A lister suggested shimming the plate that sits in the hub--I used a "washer" 
cut from
a plastic milk carton--and this seems to have solved that problem.

I've decided to throw in the towel and send the unit to a "pro" to be repaired,
when I can muster the ambition to do this not-fun task.  There is a guy that has
been mentioned on the List that specializes in this.


bs 
********************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************


> Hi Listers:
> 
> After a long hiatus I have returned to the list.  I didn't have time to sort
> through all the mail in my box each day, so I gave up and signed off.  No
> reflection on the list, just too little time.  I've got a small winter
> project I could use some input on.
> 
> My BJ8 turn signal switch would not cancel as it is designed to.  I bought
> another one and installed it (a real pain to get the wired through the tube)
> It started acting up soon and finally popped apart into my lap mid-turn one
> day.  I could not get is back togethr because of some damage and the way
> they put them together, so ordered another.   This one has worked OK for a
> while but now does not cancel for left turns.  Any advice on how to adjust
> this so it will work again?
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> John O'Brien
> '65 BJ8
> "61 Bugeye




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