Oh yeah, almost forgot.
Get it out on an absolutely smooth and straight piece of road (if there is any
in GB ;). At 55-60 mph it should shake like the wheels are going to fall off;
if it doesn't it's a counterfeit BJ8.
Maybe somebody trying to pass a 100M or 100S off as a BJ8 ;)
bs
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************
Subject: Re: Buying a BJ8...what to look out for.
> Start with a compression test and general inspection of big stuff and fluids.
>
> Get the front wheels off the ground and check for endplay or back-and-forth
> at the top/bottom of the wheel (new king pin bushes required if so).
>
> If he can pull the (road) wheels, have him check the condition of the splined
>hubs.
> Not too bad a job to replace, but expensive. Also, check the condition of
> the splines in the wheel hubs ... if they're worn sharp you pretty much have
> to replace the wheel(s). Look for cracks in the front shock mounts. PITA to
> repair/replace.
>
> If the owner will let him pull the brake drums, check for diff oil in the
>brakes ...
> if there, he'll be pulling the rear hubs soon (topic of a recent thread).
>Also, of
> course, any sign of brake fluid means (at least) new wheel cylinders.
> With the engine hot and running, take the oil fill cap off. If you get a
>gusher
> he'll need a rocker shaft rebuild.
>
> When he test drives the car, if it's possible get on a long, steep downgrade
>in
> top (fourth gear) and if it pops out of gear some gearbox work will be in
>order.
> Also check functioning of synchros (balk rings) and general feel of the
>gearbox.
>
> Have him inspect the water pump for wobble and/or fluid in the weap hole ...
> he'll need a new pump if either.
>
> Check condition of coolant and oil ... really dirty/weak coolant could spell
> problems later. Water in the oil is not a good thing, either.
>
> Check for excessive play in the throttle shafts ... carb rebuild in order if
> there's more than just a tad of wobble. If the owner will let him, pull the
> dashpots off the carbs and inspect the jet orifice ... if it's oblonged
>they'll
> have to be replaced to get a solid idle.
>
> All I can think of off the top of my head.
>
>
>
> bs
> ***************************************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ***************************************************************
>
> Subject: Re: Buying a BJ8...what to look out for.
>
>
>> Rust! Look for rust!
>>
>> Check the outriggers, frame rails, sills, and shock absorber mounting areas.
>>
>> == Alex in Maine
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