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Re: FW: starting problem 2nd try

To: William Moyer <William.Moyer@millersville.edu>
Subject: Re: FW: starting problem 2nd try
From: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 10:46:12 +0800
Bill -

Sounds to me like you have a bad starter solenoid.  $30 for a new one
and probably 15 minutes shop time.  Cheap repair.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '64 BJ8

On 5/15/05, William Moyer <William.Moyer@millersville.edu> wrote:
> Sorry if this repeats, but it didn't seem to be getting through.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, now I've had two mechanics work on the intermittent start problem.
> It's time for the list.  The latest fellow installed a standard ignition
> switch in the dash which takes the ignition key function out of the steering
> wheel lock (Euro model BJ7).  That didn't work as the same problem came up
> yesterday after a short drive.  This doesn't mean the old switch wasn't bad
> as there could be more than one thing going on at the same time, but maybe
> that's just my suspicious nature.  Before I turn myself into a pretzel
> working behind the dash I'd like to get some ideas about where to start.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the problem.  Turn the ignition on and fuel pump clicks.  Press
> button, nothing happens, no clicks, buzzes or whirls.  Press the solenoid
> starter button, it starts right up.    One complication is that it doesn't
> happen all the time but so far it hasn't happened from a cold start.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not the distributor ground, fuses, battery switch or terminals I'm
> pretty sure as I've checked those.  I'm hoping that it's the starter button
> on the dash but I can't find that on my wiring diagrams.  The ignition
> switch is there, but no separate button.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there some way to test the button without having to take out gauges to
> get to it?  What wires go to the button?  Can I assume that it completes the
> white/red circuit to the starter solenoid?  How can I get at the connection
> to the solenoid?  It looks way back in there from the engine bay
> perspective.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to get an idea before I crawl under the dash.  It's been a decade
> since I rewired the dash, I don't have happy or specific memories of the
> process and I'm a good deal larger and less flexible than I was then.
> 
> 
> 
> Any guidance as to how to check the steering wheel lock switch with a
> volt/ohm meter?  It looks from the diagram that when the key is turned on
> the connection should be made between contacts 2 and 3 on the wiring
> diagram.  If that switch isn't bad, I'd like to wire it back into the system
> but I'm not sure where the wires should go as that switch isn't on the
> wiring diagram.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> Bill Moyer




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