And also make sure your temp gauge is accurate before going to extraordinary
lengths to solve an "overheating" problem. After a gauge rebuild many years
ago, and assuming that the pros who rebuilt it calibrated it correctly, I
battled "overheating" for a long time. Once I corrected the gauge, the
problem was solved.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Joe and Lenore Armour
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 6:28 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: High Water Temperatures
Do Healeys have a Design Problem
How many times do I have to read that it is expected we accept the
fitting of Texas Coolers, Supa Doopas, Water Wetters etc etc.
The May copy of Austin Healey Magazine has an article by some well
respected Healey modifiers and racers [ Gerry Titus & John Christy ] and
after listing the modifications executed,the power increases and the
performance improvements the statement made is;
" The water radiator and cooling system is otherwise adequate and will
hold the temperature well under control "
It is advised better to fit an oil cooler kit and larger capacity sump
which will lower oil temps by over 20 degrees F.
Stop assuming that becase Healeys were designed in England they are not
suitable for US heat.
Donald targeted USA as the major market for all his cars including
Austin Healeys.
Was it not at Bonneville that Donald drove for many days in excess of
100 mph ?
All works rally and race cars had standard radiators. Some rallys were
48 hrs non-stop and LeMans was 24hrs and Florida's own Sebring 12hrs.
An Australian, Barry 'distributor'Campbell drove his Healey to
circumnavigate Australia without a problem
You have a heat transfer / exchange problem if your Healey overheats.
This can be due to poor flow or control of air thro the heat exchanger
[radiator] Where are your badge bars and aux. lights?
Fans are not required at all once the car is moving.
Water flows restricted.
Water jackets blocked or the bottom of the cylinder outers built up with
years of crud which will not flush out - remove core plugs and rod out
with wire or equivalent. There will be enough silt and corrosion to
cover your garage floor.
Localised boiling of water which can steam and over pressure the system,
dumpimg the water out. Caused by head/combustion chamber hotspots.
A one eighth inch layer of corrosion on the inside surfaces of the block
has a major deterimental effect on the transfer of heat into the cooling
water.
So stop it or you will go blind.
Fix the problem, dont just treat the symptom.
Joe- running cool
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