Resent to list. Sorry left the trailer on the first time.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and Kathy" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: starter motor
> After 40 years of service its time to replace a lot of the electrics on
> these cars. Start with the cheap things then go crazy later. Its a
> pretty easy test when you start backwards on this one. Bob has a lot of
> good suggestions but if your not comfortable using a meter then try
> substitution. Isolate the starter from its cables and put 12v right up to
> it. You'll get a spark initially so be careful. You only want to here it
> kick a bit so you know its ok. CLEAR YOUR FEET OUT OF THE WAY AND MAKE
> SURE ITS IN NEUTRAL. If the starter tries to engage then the problem is
> further back. Change the short 4 gauge (12") cable (solenoid to
> starter ) then try and start the car. If it starts then it was the cable.
> If not then short across the 2 sol. terminals with the key on. (SPARK)
> Does it try to start? Then sol. is your problem.
>
> FYI, A 15" is the shortest cable I could find so I cut it to fit and
> bought an eyelet with a 5/16" or 3/8" hole to fit the solenoid and the 4
> gauge cable. You can find what you need in any auto store in the battery
> accessories.
> Used a hammer and chisel for a little crimping persuasion.
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
> To: "Breda O'Sullivan" <conbreda@eircom.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 5:12 PM
> Subject: Re: starter motor
>
>
>> Breda,
>>
>>
>> re:
>> "The advice I received last time was to start with checking all the
>> connections"
>>
>>
>> Good advice, to be sure, but you were also advised to check/replace
>> your starter solenoid (I know, because I advised it ;)
>>
>> Put a voltmeter across the the lead on the starter solenoid that connects
>> to the battery. Put the other lead of the voltmeter to ground. You
>> should
>> see 12V+ (make sure battery cutoff is ON). If, when you press the
>> starter button the voltage goes to near-zero and the starter doesn't turn
>> you have a
>> short in the starter. If the voltage doesn't drop and the starter
>> doesn't
>> turn either the solenoid isn't making contacts or the starter is an open
>> circuit. Disconnect the big wire to the starter. Place the voltmeter
>> leads on the two secondary (large) terminals and set the volmeter to
>> resistance/ohms or "continuity." You should see large/infinite
>> resistance or no continuity. If, when you press the starter the
>> resistance drops to near zero--or you have continuity--then your solenoid
>> is OK (at least for that try) and the starter is an open circuit. If
>> the resistance remains high the solenoid is at fault.
>>
>> I (still) think it's the solenoid. At any rate, it's a cheaper and
>> easier fix
>> than removing/rebuilding the starter. If you car has over 100K miles it
>> won't hurt to replace the solenoid anyway. A solenoid can fail
>> intermittently
>> (at first) which might explain why "checking the connections" seemed to
>> work (i.e. coincidence).
>>
>> If you don't have a voltmeter you can get good voice coil type for about
>> $10 and for these types of diagnostics they work as good or better than
>> a DVM.
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