Jim -
When you removed the black and white wire from the cutoff switch, did you
make sure the wire is not touching anything?
Another thing to check - The white wire from ignition switch through the
back of the tach to the coil carries more current than any other wire in the
whole car. If every connection is not clean and in good condition on this
wire, it can result in intermittent operation like you describe (if
connections are not top notch, surface corrosion can cause the resistance to
go up when the wire gets hot). I would trace this wire and make sure all
the connections are in good shape and not hot. When the car cuts out, feel
along this wire under the dash and see if you feel any hotspots... if so,
this could be your culprit.
Best Regards,
Alan
'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8
On 9/4/06, Jim Parish <jimp@parishpartners.com> wrote:
>
> I posted a problem ten days ago where my 1965 BJ8 just quit running on the
> road. After letting it sit overnight it started in the morning, ran for 10
> minutes, then quit again never to re-start. I pinged the list and got lots
> of good suggestions, so I bought a new coil and distributor cap from
> Healey
> Surgeons and points, rotor and condenser from Moss. Installed all but the
> distributor cap today, and short story....no start. If you don't want to
> read further, hit delete now.
>
> For those who will endure the step by step, the following are the tasks
> and
> sequence performed today...
> 1. Installed new coil
> 2. Replaced connector on the distributor wire to coil and tested
> lead
> 3. Renewed the connector on the center lead from distributor cap to
> coil center connection
> 4. Replaced condenser and tested for ground
> 5. Replaced rotor
> 6. Replaced points and set to .015 gap (I hope)
> 7. Tested low tension lead
> 8. Removed all wires from ignition switch; cleaned connectors,
> replaced connector on white wire
> 9. Removed black/white wire from battery on/off switch and
> attempted
> start.
> 10. Performed "Ignition test" I got from the North Texas AHC. All
> were OK until I got to the test between the coil
> terminal (CB) which on my coil is (-), and the meter
> showed no reading, indicating a bad coil. The coil was pretty warm by this
> point, so I stopped. Could this coil be bad too? After
> all,
> I just bought it! Or is Pollyanna my new
> name?
>
> I guess my questions are: A. is there another test for a coil to
> verify if it is good or bad, and
> B. what have I forgotten?
>
> I got an email from a lister named Don with a sequence to test the coil,
> but
> since I don't' know a primary stud from a coil wire lead, and don't have
> any
> factory specs on the new coil, I won't know if the readings are within or
> outside of the range.
>
> One thing I did notice is that I got no movement in the tach needle when
> the
> engine was cranking. I have read that that indicated a bad white wire on
> the
> ignition switch, but I checked that out. By the way, I tested for spark by
> removing a plug and setting it against a grounded surface, and when I
> cranked the engine I got no spark.
>
> Kinda out of ideas. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Sorry for the long
> message.
>
> Jim Parish
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