Chris,
Factory had caulk on all areas where floor meets frame underneath incl.trunk
floor. Problem was original caulk dried out, body flex and thin sheetmetal
floors caused cracking in caulk. Most can be gone by now. Water gets in
underneath where floor sheetmetal overlaps on frame and rust happens.I would
recomend a good automotive urethane caulk ( 3M comes to mind ) Also some
windshield caulking is urethane too.Clear or black , grey, doesnt matter as
they are paintable. I do not like silicone caulks. I do not know your
climate, here in northeast USA I would highly recomend it. There was a thin
line of caulk done, not smeared with a big finger. YOu can use a small 3 /16
in cut off the tube end and run a line then use the side of your pinky,
smoothing and pressing in the caulk with one smooth pass. Nice neat thin
line.
Make sure all dirt ,old caulk ect. is out of the areas where old caulk was,
degrease, ect. blow out good. If bare or sandblasted frame I use a good
epoxy primer blown into cleaned seams first then caulk.
Sorry for being long winded but this is one of the areas that kills the
cars.
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations Inc.
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