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[Healeys] BJ7 paint and assembly questions

To: "List Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 paint and assembly questions
From: "R Dickson" <rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 09:10:15 -0600
Listers,
I'm finishing up the body work on my 63 BJ7 and I was wanting some advice on 
the paint and assembly procedures for the fenders and doors.  I have been 
doing all of the body work myself due to spousal imposed financial 
constraints.  My brother in law is going to be doing the painting (for labor 
exchange, all I have to do is buy the paint), as he has a nice body shop and 
he restores old Mach 1 and Boss Mustangs.  My brother in law and I had a 
hell of time this past weekend getting the new rear door gaps to come out 
with the new latch panels, door and rear fenders.  The gaps look good now so 
I'm all that I have left is the lower shroud portions (both front and rear) 
to finish.  This will just be a few of heavy layers of primer, guide coat 
and block sanding.  Anyway, here is what we plan on doing and I was wanting 
comments about any potential pitfalls or F-ups.  The car is going to be 
Colorado red over black.  We are going to remove the fenders, doors, bonnet 
and boot.  Shoot all of them and the car in single stage (base coat) red. 
Then reassemble all panels on the car and install the stainless beads.  Any 
potential scratches or garfs can then be touched up.  Then we will shoot the 
lower half of the car with black.  We will then wet-sand the entire car with 
1000 or 1500.  Then we will carefully tape the beads (fine-line).  Then we 
will shoot the car with several clear coats.  After curing for the required 
amount of time I will buff the car out.
 I have heard about people leaving the beads in proud of the car by an inch 
or so and then painting, then loosening the fenders and then sliding the 
beads into the gaps.  I'm afraid the too much clear will accumulate in the 
gaps and they will not close up or the beads will not go in far enough or at 
all.  It seems to me like there is too much of a chance of error or 
scratches occurring or uneven spraying of the base coat due to the bead 
standing up impeding the flow of the gun.  Also, I'm leaning toward a PPG 
base coat clear coat system.  Any paint brands recommended?  Any and all 
comments greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

Randy Dickson
Healey-Archaeologist
63 BJ7
66 Cobra replica
06 Mini Cooper S
owner of several Healeys (3) and original Minis (2) in the past
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