I did the same but now I use a thing shaped like the one Moss etc sell. I
just made it out of better wood. I used 2 or 3 layers of WBP (marine) ply
which I laminated together then cut to shape. Looks OK(ish) but works fine
and it's just bits of scrap.
Simon
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: 02 December 2008 16:41
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] British Tool
Why not use a scrap piece of 2 x 4 against the knockoff ear, and hit that
with the hammer instead of hitting the knockoff directly? That way you
won't beat up the lead hammer, either. I've been doing this since 1990 and
don't have any marks on either the knockoffs or the hammer.
Lately, I've been using a piece of oak instead of a pine 2 x 4 and avoiding
the need to replace the pine frequently. I keep the oak in the same bag as
the jack and hammer.
Works for me, and I've never had a knockoff loosen while driving, much less
come off.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Fine
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 11:21 AM
To: Dan Stromquist; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] British Tool
I also found that the wood wrench came apart with little use. I now use the
big lead hammer Moss sells 386-180 with good results. The head is very soft
and so far I haven't seen any damage to my new spin offs. Don't try the
Zink Alloy hammer. It will definitely dent your knock offs.
Ron
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