I know this must have been discussed at some point, but does anyone have any
good tips when attempting to remove the steering wheel?
Joel
BN2
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
> Hi Stephen,
> You need to purchase a Pitman Arm Puller. They have them at Princess Auto
> item #8105223.
> The jaws of the puller have to be trimmed slightly to fit over the shaft
> between the arm and the body.
> Then you install the castellated nut upside down until its face is just
> level with the end of the thread to protect the shaft.
> I then slide a small piece of 3/8" steel plate between the end of the
> forcing screw and the nut/shaft for further protection. This will prevent
> the end of the shaft collapsing as a result of its being weakened where the
> split pin hole is drilled.
> Tighten the hex on the puller, I use an impact gun, and Bob's your uncle.
> Wear safety glasses, they come off with a bit of a bang.
>
> Michael Salter
> 100 (1953) #174
> AHX12 (1953)
> Bugeye (1961)
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings
> Sent: November 26, 2008 12:30 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Steering lever removal
>
> I'm having a hell of a time removing the steering levers from the
> idler and steering box.
> I soaked the area in penetrant for days, then applied some heat (not
> the serious, de-tempering kind) and used my puller, but the force I
> had to use made me fear I'd break the pulling "ears" on the arms.
> They are back to soaking while I think about this.
> It occurred to me that it might be effective to put in a spacer and
> screw the castellated nut back on, which would theoretically get it
> moving further on to the splines , and once it's moving make it
> easier to withdraw.
> Any thoughts from the more experienced?
> Thanks,
> Stephen, BJ8
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