also re:
"the throttle screws backed fully off"
Don't know exactly what that means; recommend you screw down the throttle
screws till they just touch the stops on the shafts. Opinions vary on this, but
you'll want some gas pedal/throttle action unless you have someone to work the
throttles while you attempt to start from inside the cockpit.
bs
re:
"The carbs were proffessionally rebuilt and have 2
turns on what I believe is the idle screw (big one on its own?) and the
throttle screws backed fully off, I assume the jet was set up correctly.
Do these settings sound correct and would this give me a high / low idle"
That's enough for (only) a very slow idle. I'd open (counter-clockwise) the
slow-run (idle) screws about 3 turns. The slow-run valves are a 'normal' screw:
clockwise to close, counter-clockwise to open.
Remove the dashpots from the caburettors and turn the key to 'run.' When the
pump stops clicking--if it doesn't you have a fuel or air leak--check the
levels of the jets and the fuel inside the jets. If you have roughly 1/10-inch
(2-3mm) from the top of the jet bridge down to the tops of the jets, and a
similar gap from the tops of the jets to the fuel level--on both carbs--you
should be in the ballpark for mixture. If not, adjust the float levels and the
jet level/mixture screws (small screws on the left-hand side of the
carbs--clockwise to enrichen). With the dashpots off make sure the jet needles
are properly located in the piston (varies depending on type/brand of needle;
either base of shank or top of groove).
re:
"I had to remove the oil flexi pipe to bleed thru and now have around 58psi oil
pressure now on the gauge"
How? Just cranking the engine? That sounds way too high; if you remove the
plugs and crank the starter you should get at most a few psi.
Bob
..
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://www.team.net/archive
|