Hey we're tough Healey guys. If we didn't like a challenge or two then we
would all own Miatas. ; )
Soak the rear spring bolts and bushings well in advance with Kroil or PB
blaster. Heat from a torch
may be of some help too but of course be careful there. I used a saws all
( again, very carefully) to
saw one bolt off. However if you can get a long sturdy punch and hammer on
the end of the bolts
you can drive them out with some persistence and the PB blaster soaking.
Some people have burned the rubber bushes out but your still stuck with
getting the bolts out and the
burning rubber is definitely sickening so this probably is not a good idea.
Definitely an easier job if the car is up on a lift.
On the "Big Healey Restoration" project video that I have I noticed that
they installed the rear axle without the gear unit and axles installed to
make it lighter and easier to slide out the side. But they also used 3
guys.
Its really not that heavy once you get the guts removed.
Yes this is one of those jobs where you do a Victory Dance after wards cause
it can be a real bear
if the rust bug is present.
Good Luck, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "PG" <britishcars@shaw.ca>
To: "'healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 12:38 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Removal
> RE: '67 BJ8
>
>
>
> Ok..so I am of weak mind and strong back and a bit of a sucker for
> punishment.
>
>
>
> One of my projects this winter is to lower the car by about 1"...just
> don't
> like the way the rear of the Mark 3 BJ8 sits..too high. Also, I have a
> rear
> sway bar that's been taking space in my garage waiting for installation.
>
>
>
> While getting into this job, I started thinking thinking that I've done
> the
> transmission and engine so I might as well finish the drive train and do
> the
> axle.nothing particularly wrong with it..bit of play but nothing terrible.
>
>
>
> So, I have a couple of questions:
>
>
>
> 1. To get the axle out, I need to slide it over the frame and springs.
> While Haynes recommends this approach, I'm looking at the pumpkin and
> wondering if will actually fit (even with rotating it);
>
>
>
> 2. I assume it make sense to replace the bushing on the tie bars while
> I"ve got everything apart. However, am a little concerned that once I
> start
> I'm going to find the bolts/nuts frozen and get myself into a bit of a
> jam.
> Likewise for the bushings on the springs.
>
>
>
> 3. Is this something where you leave well enough alone?
>
>
>
> Thanks fro the help.all advice and comments appreciated as always.
>
>
>
> Paul
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