Paul, I reinstall the rear hub (after cleaning and lubricating the O.D. of
the axle housing and the I.D. of the bearing), by putting a block of wood
across the diameter of the hub and tapping on that until the hub is far
enough on to install the nut. Make sure that you don't get the hub cocked
or it will bind. When the nut will thread on, you can use the nut to push
the hub the rest of the way on.
If you are having so much trouble, you may have the hub cocked. I would
pull it off and start over. I didn't experience a problem with getting the
hub on.
It's best to alternate tapping on one side of the hub and then the other,
and move around the diameter as it goes on.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of PG
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 4:42 PM
To: 'David Nock'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Bearing Challange
I had a leaking seal on the rear hub. While replacing it, I decided to
replace the bearing also.
I purchased the bearing from Moss (powertune brand)..made in Taiwan.
To set the bearing into the hub took an extraordinary amount of pressure and
the bearing lost some of It's "freewheeling".
I'm in the process of putting the hub (with bearing) back on the rear axle
case..I've been using a drift on the inner race (as per factory manual).
I've been pounding for 10 minutes and making little if no progress past the
threads... without going to a sledge hammer, I can't see getting this thing
on. Furthermore, the race is getting "less free" as the pressure
builds..it's certainly not freewheeling.
Question:
1. Anybody else have this problem?
2. I understand that the bearing has to be tight, but this seems
extraordinary.
3. Anybody else have problems with tolerances with these bearings?
4. Suggestions?
Thanks
Paul
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