When I use the phosphoric etch solution, the resultant white glaze gets
scrubbed off using heavy duty #60 grit pads cut from a sanding belt, wire
brush, and water. The process is repeated until clean metal appears. I've used
gallons of this stuff and it works real well but it's slow and labor intensive.
I try to do as little spraying as possible so I brush on. The end results rival
sand blasting or acid dip. The 1958 Jeep fc170 chassis I'm working on now will
take 12-15 repetitions.
Best
JK
------------------------------
On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 4:25 PM EST BJ8 Healeys wrote:
>The metal prep I used was concentrate in a bottle, available from the local
>auto parts store that specializes in supply to body shops. Mix with water
>as directed and put in an empty Windex bottle to spray it on. Spraying is a
>way to cover relatively large areas quickly. The solution can also be
>applied with a brush. Keep the surface wet with the solution for the time
>specified, then rinse well and dry. The solution will dissolve light
>surface rust and leave a phosphate coating after rinsing and drying that
>will prevent flash rusting, as well as provide a good basis for the finish
>paint. Phosphate is a corrosion inhibitor that is less hazardous than the
>chromate coatings previously used.
>
>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphate_conversion_coating
>
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: David Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 10:58 AM
>To: 'BJ8 Healeys'; healeys at autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: [Healeys] Engine cleaning
>
>DuPont Surface Klean # A-3970S Rattle can stuff
>Phosphates simply replace rust with a different layer of oxidation to
>prevent rust oxidation. IMHO
Dave
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