A week or so back I asked for help/advice as to precisely which calliper
would fit in place of the Girling Type 14s on my Mk II BT7. ie what I was/am
trying to do is get the BJ8 size callipers onto my car, bearing in mind that
the (later)BJ8s Type 16s mounting holes are 3.5 in apart and those on my
car are 3.25in apart.
I was given a fair bit of info, some of it helpful...some of it less so.
And, taken together, it was all pretty confusing.
It seems to me and to others, mostly in the Lotus Elan and Triumph TR world,
that there was no clear delineation in Type 16 manufacture; they did not
cease production of one variant on one day and commence the next variant on
the following day; more importantly, they do not appear to have changed the
stamping on the callipers when they made the change, nor did they change the
Type description. Which is why the relevant parts book are full of
references like early & later types.
It seems to me that what one ideally needs is an (early!) Type 16PB which is
will be 3.25 centre to centre and will, very probably, have UNF threads for
the brake pipe and bleeder.
Look at this:-
http://www.brakepartssuperstore.org.uk/contents/en-uk/d6184.html
For yr further info:-
My LHS calliper is stamped on one side : 64326672 with a 1 underneath
And, on tother side of the same face : 97 with 61 M(?) 6
Whilst on the reverse face, over and below the big G symbol is 9(?)L 2 4 L
1 & 64326046
My RHS calliper is stamped on one side: 64326673 with a 1 underneath
And, on tother side of the same face :9M 26 with L1 underneath
Whilst on the reverse face, over and below the big G symbol is 1 with
64326047 & 9 M 22 L3
I trust that you are now at least as confused as I am. However, all I can
say is that those stamped numbers are on a matched pair of UNF 3.25 in
callipers. (#25:00 from a Ford breaker/purveyor of Go-faster add-ons to
the incognescenti. Of course I had to buy a seal kit and new pistons. And
Father Christmas will have to put some BJ8 discs on his sleigh.
When the callipers arrived, they looked pretty dire. The pistons looked like
they were welded in. I swapped the bleed screw for a grease nipple, put a
UNF bolt into the brake line hole and did the grease gun trick. Worked like
a charm. Had no idea that a grease gun could develop such pressure.
Id say that one must use a decent gun with a handle pump action.
On a final note, if one digs around the WWW for tips on grease or compressed
air removal of pistons, one quite often finds remarks like this will only
remove one piston etcetc. Well, if one puts a bit of wood in between the
pistons that is +/- the thickness of the disc and then pump slowly but
firmly, one will see one piston beginning to move. Pump until its almost
out then clamp it tight so that it cannot move. Then pump the other one
clean out. You can then get the first one easily enough.
The callipers came apart OK, despite the warn
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