Try boiling the rubber and then installing it while it's still warm. It
should make it easier. If it's a little wet, that should be ok to help get
it on, although it may cause a bit of surface corrosion. if you have some
Girling rubber grease in an old packet, it's good to use that to help get
the boot on.
On Thu, Jan 31, 2013 at 6:38 AM, BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:
> Thanks to all who have responded so far. Several of you recommended
> installing the boot from inside the car after the cylinder is inserted
> through
> the hole. Ib m not the sharpest blade in the toolbox, but I did think of
> that. However, given the problem I had installing the boot with the
> cylinder
> clamped in a vise b using two hands and a screwdriver to pry the lip of
> the
> boot over the neck of the cylinder while holding it to prevent it from
> coming
> off on the other side b I donb t think I can do it from inside the car.
> The mismatch in diameters is too great and the rubber too stiff. It would
> be
> easier to grind the hole larger, but I donb t want to do that before
> hearing
> from more folks who have actually done this job recently with a Moss kit,
> or
> from Moss what they think of the issue. Ib m still waiting for their call
> back.
>
> The boot I removed from the cylinder was stamped b Girlingb , and it is
> much
> thinner and more flexible than the new Moss boot (b Made in Englandb ). I
> rebuilt the brake master in September 1992, and at that time Moss provided
> the
> rebuild kit including the Girling boot.
>
> By the way, there was no corrosion or pitting at all in the cylinder bores
> of
> either the brake or clutch master. Slick as ice. Thanks, Silicone Fluid.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
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