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Re: [Healeys] Torquing Studs.2

To: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Torquing Studs.2
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 07:58:26 -0800
Cc: Forum Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <D0EC06BE-24FF-424F-B887-CA527ED0D6CE@cox.net>
If you are worried about finger tight not being tight enough, install the
studs finger tight with both the studs and the holes clean and dry.  Then
apply a drop of green loctite (after lock).  It will wick down the threads
and lock the stud into place.
They won't come loose by accident.
Rick

On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at 5:32 PM, Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net> wrote:

> That may be ok for some, but in my experience, if the studs aren't tight
> enough, they'll come out with the nuts and that can be real a pain the ass
> in
> some applications like the manifold studs or other location that only has
> enough room to remove the nuts. Sure the main caps will be fine for
> removal,
> but it's much easier to put on the caps with the studs in place AND it may
> not
> be best to try use that stud as a "screw" when trying to re assemble.
>
> Short version: finger tight is usually not enough torque.
>
>
> On Nov 6, 2013, at 4:54 PM, Mike Tobin wrote:
>
> > Just received and opened the box for the main cap bolt studs and nuts and
> > the instructions from the manufacturer (ARP) say to put the studs in
> "Hand
> > Tight Only" -  in bold yet.  This is at odds with what the BMC manual
> says
> > but inline with my intuition.
> >
> > Mike Tobin
> > Pepperell, MA
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