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I'm sure that you are correct Richard but my numbers are just based on the =
results of many such tests.
I have found that the thin brass crimped cable terminations that were used =
on the original cables perform very poorly, so much so that they get warm a=
fter a few seconds of starter cranking even when in good condition.
Also, by my count, there are 4 connections on the supply side and 4 more on=
the ground side plus the solenoid and the master switch (which usually has=
fairly considerable resistance), many more than current vehicles.=20
I have also found that the original starters are serious current hogs compa=
red to more modern reduction gear units...I've seen over 400 amps stalled a=
nd not a lot less when slowly turning a very cold engine.
Granted the tests I suggested won't really show the true voltage that the s=
tarter is seeing but hopefully they will point John in the right direction.
Hardly surprising that your typically Healey cranks fairly slowly even when=
things are in good condition.
Michael S
BN1 #174
-----Original Message-----
From: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Sent: =E2=80=8E20/=E2=80=8E02/=E2=80=8E2015 5:56 p.m.
To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>; "healeys@autox.team.net" <healey=
s@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical - general questions BT7
First off battery voltages: a wet cell battery produces 2.12V/cell when ful=
ly charged. =20
So a fully charged 12V is 2.12 X 6=3D 12.72V. Anything above 12.6V is accep=
ted as fully charged
Anything above 12.72 is surface charge that has to be removed for testing b=
y letting the battery sit or turning on the headlights for about a minute.=
=20
So: 12.6 fully charged
12.4. 3/4 charge
12.25. 1/2 charge
12.0 1/4 charge
Michael, your numbers for voltage drops is too high by a factor of at least=
2 if not more.=20
Auto industry standard for a starter cable voltage drop is 0.2V +0.1V for e=
ach connection or solenoid, so you get a standard spec of .2+.1+.1+.1=3D0.5=
V not 2.0V. Now the Healey has a long + cable so I might accept a drop of a=
little more than 0.5V but for sure I would be doing a repair on 2V. On the=
ground side I would expect about0.3V not 1V like you said.=20
Rick
Sent from my iPhone=
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=
=3Dutf-8"></head><body><div><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; =
font-size: 11pt;">I'm sure that you are correct Richard but my numbers are =
just based on the results of many such tests.<br>I have found that the thin=
brass crimped cable terminations that were used on the original cables per=
form very poorly, so much so that they get warm after a few seconds of star=
ter cranking even when in good condition.<br>Also, by my count, there are 4=
connections on the supply side and 4 more on the ground side plus the sole=
noid and the master switch (which usually has fairly considerable resistanc=
e), many more than current vehicles. <br>I have also found that the origina=
l starters are serious current hogs compared to more modern reduction gear =
units...I've seen over 400 amps stalled and not a lot less when slowly turn=
ing a very cold engine.<br>Granted the tests I suggested won't really show =
the true voltage that the starter is seeing but hopefully they will point J=
ohn in the right direction.<br>Hardly surprising that your typically Healey=
cranks fairly slowly even when things are in good condition.<br>Michael S<=
br>BN1 #174</div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><hr><span style=3D"font-family: Cal=
ibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">From: </span><span st=
yle=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto=
:richard.ewald@gmail.com">Richard Ewald</a></span><br><span style=3D"font-f=
amily: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Sent: </spa=
n><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">=E2=80=
=8E20/=E2=80=8E02/=E2=80=8E2015 5:56 p.m.</span><br><span style=3D"font-fam=
ily: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">To: </span><s=
pan style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href=3D"=
mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com";>Michael Salter</a></span><br><span style=3D=
"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Cc: =
</span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a=
href=3D"mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net";>John Spaur</a>; <a href=3D"mailto:h=
ealeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a></span><br><span style=3D"=
font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Subje=
ct: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;=
">Re: [Healeys] Electrical - general questions BT7</span><br><br></div>Firs=
t off battery voltages: a wet cell battery produces 2.12V/cell when fully c=
harged. <br>So a fully charged 12V is 2.12 X 6=3D 12.72V. Anything ab=
ove 12.6V is accepted as fully charged<br>Anything above 12.72 is surface c=
harge that has to be removed for testing by letting the battery sit or turn=
ing on the headlights for about a minute. <br>So: 12.6 fully charged<br>12.=
4. 3/4 charge<br>12.25. 1/2 charge<br>12.0 1/4 charge<br>Michael, your numb=
ers for voltage drops is too high by a factor of at least 2 if not more. <b=
r>Auto industry standard for a starter cable voltage drop is 0.2V +0.1V for=
each connection or solenoid, so you get a standard spec of .2+.1+.1+.1=3D0=
.5V not 2.0V. Now the Healey has a long + cable so I might accept a drop of=
a little more than 0.5V but for sure I would be doing a repair on 2V. On t=
he ground side I would expect about0.3V not 1V like you said. <br>Rick<br><=
br>Sent from my iPhone</body></html>=
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