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Re: [Healeys] oil weight

To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil weight
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2015 06:42:16 -0400
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAEEMJ+1O5W4QsFbdKstDgEa-TgFucGf-KqLAJhVkt+MwWGKA4w@mail.gmail.com> <CAPTa0B7MJ64OgaOvSNsWW2vVVy9puByYYTkExohjYNsbUDdLJw@mail.gmail.com> <013401d0a3db$6cf930e0$46eb92a0$@tpg.com.au> <5578D4B3.3020104@comcast.net> <015301d0a3e1$15ca6860$415f3920$@tpg.com.au> <5579015B.7060000@comcast.net> <ED834820-8176-44F8-94AB-C9D4F5B56A76@gmail.com> <55792D30.70903@comcast.net> <7BD7E0BF-B2A4-4CB7-8DB6-96D3214AE4BF@gmail.com> <557A25F0.1070506@comcast.net>
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Bob--

I read with interest your post describing your desert jaunt and indeed
taking our cars out into the remote hinterlands is a test of faith--sort of
like how it must have felt for sailors in the days when sea charts bore
phrases such as "Here Be Dragons".

As re oil and gas I agree with everything you said except your
statement:  "Just
about any modern oil is vastly superior to what was available when our
Healeys were built."  Though oil technology has changed greatly and modern
lubes are superior in so many respects they do lack the ingredients
necessary to protect our flat-tappet engines and now we are forced to
either put in additives or buy non-DOT oils, etc.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Jun 11, 2015 at 8:21 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

>  Apparently you didn't read my earlier post.
>
>  I ran Chevron 20W-50 for over 25 years when it was available at Costco
> for less than $2/qt--I changed my oil twice/year back then--but Costco no
> longer carries it.  Now, I'm using Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 off-the-shelf from
> the local parts house.  It's almost $7/qt but now I only change my oil once
> a year and put up to 5,000 miles a year on my BJ8 so the expense isn't that
> much of a burden.  With 110,000 miles on the last overhaul the car uses
> (mostly drips) about 1qt every 3,500 miles or so (that's mostly highway
> miles, it uses a little more around town).  I have a spin-on oil filter
> adapter and run Wix# 51516 filters which barely fit but have served me well
> for years (about $8 per); the oil was clean and a medium amber color with
> no smell of 'burnt' when I last changed it at about 6,500 miles (last
> year's trip got cut short and I didn't bother changing it afterwards).  I
> am mildly fanatic about not mixing brands but this year I threw a leftover
> quart of Chevron into the Valvoline since I would be changing it soon.  As
> I mentioned, the timing cover was spotless inside when I removed it a year
> ago.
>
>  As for gas, I buy name brands--Chevron if I can get it--and 91 R+M/2 or
> better when I can get it, but since I'm sometimes a hundred miles from even
> medium-sized towns I'll take what I can get in a pinch.  I just did the
> Caliente to Tonopah, NV run which is 192 miles over several passes--you use
> more fuel climbing a pass than you can save coasting downhill--with no fuel
> whatsoever available (sometimes, you can get some regular in Rachel but
> they were dry, much to the chagrin of some off-roaders on their way to race
> in Caliente who said they'd 'pay whatever' for a couple gallons).  I don't
> run with a fuel filter, only the thimble strainers in the carbs, and the
> only problem I get is some stumbling after a hot re-start, which I
> attribute to the ethanol in the fuel boiling in the float bowls.  My
> aftermarket tank holds almost 14 gallons, filled to the top of the filler
> neck, and we made it to Tonopah with almost a quarter tank.  With the stock
> 12gal tank I would have been on fumes.
>
>  It's a matter of opinion, I suppose, but being alone on a desert road a
> hundred miles--literally--from any town and with no cellphone service is,
> IMO, putting my 'cock on the block.'  I've got 130,000 miles--plus previous
> owners' 64K miles--on the car running whale shit for oil and horse piss for
> gas; not bad for an old LBC, I'd say.  If you're that proud of the oil and
> gas you can buy, well, so be it.  Just about any modern oil is vastly
> superior to what was available when our Healeys were built.  If spending
> extra for a 'custom' formulation gives you a hard-on, fine, but as long as
> there's enough ZDDP either in the oil or added (not a great idea, IMO) it's
> a non-issue.
>
>  Bob
>
>
>
>
> On 6/11/2015 11:54 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
>
> So the different specs, standards, zinc levels, weights, base stocks, etc
> don't mean anything to you Bob??
> So what oil, specifically, do you run Bob??
> Put your cock on the block.
> Specifics please.
> Your un specified oil is currently lower than whale shit in my book mate.
> And what fuel do you run??
> That's always good for a laugh too...
> Sincerely.
> Well, probably not.
> But RON, MON, and my 90 year old MUM are waiting in anticipation.....
>
>
>
>
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>

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)=
">Bob--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><b=
r></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I read =
with interest your post describing your desert jaunt and indeed taking our =
cars out into the remote hinterlands is a test of faith--sort of like how i=
t must have felt for sailors in the days when sea charts bore phrases such =
as &quot;Here Be Dragons&quot;. =C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" st=
yle=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default"><font c=
olor=3D"#3333ff">As re oil and gas I agree with everything you said except =
your statement: =C2=A0&quot;</font><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-siz=
e:12.8000001907349px">Just about any modern oil is vastly superior to what =
was available when our Healeys were built.&quot; =C2=A0</span><span style=
=3D"font-size:12.8000001907349px"><font color=3D"#0000ff">Though oil techno=
logy has changed greatly and modern lubes are superior in so many respects =
they do lack the ingredients necessary to protect our flat-tappet engines a=
nd now we are forced to either put in additives or buy non-DOT oils, etc.</=
font></span></div><div class=3D"gmail_default"><span style=3D"font-size:12.=
8000001907349px"><font color=3D"#0000ff"><br></font></span></div><div class=
=3D"gmail_default"><span style=3D"font-size:12.8000001907349px"><font color=
=3D"#0000ff">Best--Michael Oritt</font></span></div></div><div class=3D"gma=
il_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Thu, Jun 11, 2015 at 8:21 PM, B=
ob Spidell <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; ta=
rget=3D"_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;=
padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF" text=3D"#000000">
    <div>Apparently you didn&#39;t read my earlier post.<br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div>I ran Chevron 20W-50 for over 25 years when it was available at
      Costco for less than $2/qt--I changed my oil twice/year back
      then--but Costco no longer carries it.=C2=A0 Now, I&#39;m using Valvo=
line
      VR-1 20W-50 off-the-shelf from the local parts house.=C2=A0 It&#39;s =
almost
      $7/qt but now I only change my oil once a year and put up to 5,000
      miles a year on my BJ8 so the expense isn&#39;t that much of a
      burden.=C2=A0 With 110,000 miles on the last overhaul the car uses
      (mostly drips) about 1qt every 3,500 miles or so (that&#39;s mostly
      highway miles, it uses a little more around town).=C2=A0 I have a
      spin-on oil filter adapter and run Wix# 51516 filters which barely
      fit but have served me well for years (about $8 per); the oil was
      clean and a medium amber color with no smell of &#39;burnt&#39; when =
I
      last changed it at about 6,500 miles (last year&#39;s trip got cut
      short and I didn&#39;t bother changing it afterwards).=C2=A0 I am mil=
dly
      fanatic about not mixing brands but this year I threw a leftover
      quart of Chevron into the Valvoline since I would be changing it
      soon.=C2=A0 As I mentioned, the timing cover was spotless inside when=
 I
      removed it a year ago.<br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div>As for gas, I buy name brands--Chevron if I can get it--and 91
      R+M/2 or better when I can get it, but since I&#39;m sometimes a
      hundred miles from even medium-sized towns I&#39;ll take what I can
      get in a pinch.=C2=A0 I just did the Caliente to Tonopah, NV run whic=
h
      is 192 miles over several passes--you use more fuel climbing a
      pass than you can save coasting downhill--with no fuel whatsoever
      available (sometimes, you can get some regular in Rachel but they
      were dry, much to the chagrin of some off-roaders on their way to
      race in Caliente who said they&#39;d &#39;pay whatever&#39; for a cou=
ple
      gallons).=C2=A0 I don&#39;t run with a fuel filter, only the thimble
      strainers in the carbs, and the only problem I get is some
      stumbling after a hot re-start, which I attribute to the ethanol
      in the fuel boiling in the float bowls.=C2=A0 My aftermarket tank hol=
ds
      almost 14 gallons, filled to the top of the filler neck, and we
      made it to Tonopah with almost a quarter tank.=C2=A0 With the stock
      12gal tank I would have been on fumes.<br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div>It&#39;s a matter of opinion, I suppose, but being alone on a
      desert road a hundred miles--literally--from any town and with no
      cellphone service is, IMO, putting my &#39;cock on the block.&#39;=C2=
=A0 I&#39;ve
      got 130,000 miles--plus previous owners&#39; 64K miles--on the car
      running whale shit for oil and horse piss for gas; not bad for an
      old LBC, I&#39;d say.=C2=A0 If you&#39;re that proud of the oil and g=
as you can
      buy, well, so be it.=C2=A0 Just about any modern oil is vastly superi=
or
      to what was available when our Healeys were built.=C2=A0 If spending
      extra for a &#39;custom&#39; formulation gives you a hard-on, fine, b=
ut as
      long as there&#39;s enough ZDDP either in the oil or added (not a
      great idea, IMO) it&#39;s a non-issue.=C2=A0 <br><span class=3D"HOEnZ=
b"><font color=3D"#888888">
    </font></span></div><span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888">
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div>Bob<br>
    </div></font></span><span class=3D"">
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div>On 6/11/2015 11:54 AM, Chris Dimmock
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div>So the different specs, standards, zinc levels, weights, base
        stocks, etc don&#39;t mean anything to you Bob??</div>
      <div>So what oil, specifically, do you run Bob??</div>
      <div>Put your cock on the block.=C2=A0</div>
      <div>Specifics please.=C2=A0</div>
      <div>Your un specified oil is currently lower than whale shit in
        my book mate.=C2=A0</div>
      <div>And what fuel do you run??</div>
      <div>That&#39;s always good for a laugh too...</div>
      <div>Sincerely.=C2=A0</div>
      <div>Well, probably not.=C2=A0</div>
      <div>But RON, MON, and my 90 year old MUM are waiting in
        anticipation.....</div>
      <div><br>
        <br>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </span></div>

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