I secure dampers by cleaning the threads on the (grade 8) bolt and nut,
putting a (grade 8) flat washer under the head of the bolt and
threadlocker on the threads and torquing all to 35ft-lbs. Haven't had
one shock bolt come loose in 100K+ miles. Distributing the load over
the greater surface area of the rigid flatwasher really helps.
Bob
On 12/28/2015 5:07 PM, J. Armour wrote:
>
>> After reading Joseph's I did a quick check on the shocks
>> and found I could tighten the upper shock mounts about one
>> flat (I have Putske's Bilstein shocks mounted) but to be
>> on the safe side I will give the entire front end a good nut
>> and bolt before ruling anything out.
>> I
>> am running about 27 psi on the Michelin XAS's and I will
>> also check toe as per Dave Porter's
>> suggestion.
>> In
>> the meantime it has been quite a while since I have checked
>> the fluid level in the steering box and I ran out of time to
>> check it today as I must move the cold air hose in order
>> to get to it. What is the preferred lubricant for a box
>> that has not shown any signs of leakage?
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
> A check I did on my standard front shocks when I last had them off the car
> was to put a straight edge across the base mounting face - 4 pads cast
> finish. What I found was that these 4 pads were not flat and square to
> each other thus meaning that the bolts were putting unnecessary load and
> possibly deforming the shock body or as in my case cracking one of the
> mounting 'ears'. I believe this also adds to the problem of keeping the
> bolts tight and leads to stripping the threads in the shock tower.
> Joe
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
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