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Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel

To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 18:42:48 +0100
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <BBCBD14C-7BD5-4D12-99F2-DA1F2650669F@visioncenterpc.com>
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Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and patinated. 
I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with white spirits 
on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in some linseed oil.
Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the aluminium. It may 
have been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot 
find anything.


Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint. 
If that is the case this must be completely removed before repainting.
Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white 
spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is 
even and all lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium 
material as possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a 
soft round brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats 
or wood floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so the 
lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry thoroughly for a few days 
and sand lightly with 400 grade in between the coats. I prefer to coat 
wooden wheels using a satin finish, but others prefer gloss.
Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil 
and leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.
Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be 
used as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.
It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered 
Moto-Lita wheel (same manufacturer).

I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and also 
using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be 
that in the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:
> I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the looks 
> of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would like to 
> lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the metal rivets 
> would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are these 
> maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were black 
> plastic.
>
>
>
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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Of what I can see the steering wheel
      does look very nice and patinated. I would not do anything to it
      apart from cleaning it with white spirits on a rough cloth or
      kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in some linseed oil.<br>
      Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the aluminium. It
      may have been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if
      you cannot find anything.<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic
      paint. If that is the case this must be completely removed before
      repainting.<br>
      Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with
      white spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until
      the colour is even and all lacquer is removed but remove as little
      wood/aluminium material as possible. Remove all the dust
      carefully. Repaint using a soft round brush with PU solvent based
      clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors) with about 4-5
      coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly.
      Let every coat dry thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with
      400 grade in between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels
      using a satin finish, but others prefer gloss.<br>
      Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw
      linseed oil and leave every coat to dry for at least a week at
      summer temperatures.<br>
      Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut
      can be used as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like
      mahogany ply.<br>
      It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered
      Moto-Lita wheel (same manufacturer).<br>
      <br>
      I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer
      and also using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The
      drawback may be that in the beginning your hands will smell of
      linseed oil.<br>
      <br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
       <br>
      Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:BBCBD14C-7BD5-4D12-99F2-DA1F2650669F@visioncenterpc.com"
      type="cite">
      <pre wrap="">I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to 
improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. 
I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since 
the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  
Are these maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were 
black plastic. 

</pre>
      <br>
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      <br>
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</pre>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">-----
Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
href="http://www.avg.com";>www.avg.com</a>
Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: 12/31/15
</pre>
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