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Mike,
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and work method. Very informative.
I have also noticed that Moto-Lita is not to precise in fitting the
rivets, especially at the rear where they (and the holes in the wood)
can be very badly finished.
I do not think that steering wheels were ever finished by proper French
polishing (shellac/ethanol mixture rubbed on with a pad, using a few
drops of raw linseed oil to prevent sticking of the pad). Although it
will give a superior finish (very high gloss), it is a very laborious
process and it would not be resistant against moisture from e.g. sweaty
hands.
May be a similar process was used but I suspect the manufacturers
claimed a lacquered steering wheel to be French polished as the finish
looked a bit like it.
I am surprised you use ammonia and bleach on the wood. I have always
avoided that in fear of damaging the glue in the laminate.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 1-1-2016 om 21:28 schreef mlempert@bellsouth.net:
> While I was once a regular reader and participant in this email list,
> I rarely have the time anymore to read the digests I receive. I do
> sometime scan through the subject before filing the digest email. I
> just happened to do that and noticed the discussion about steering
> wheel refinishing.
> There is much I can write and when I do I typically transgress into
> all kinds of related trivia, but I will try to avoid that. But first
> some comments about the original posterâ??s wheel. It is indeed a
> Derrington type, but it is very difficult to know whether it came from
> Derrington or from another of a few makers. Moto-Lita was certainly
> one of the makers and they did sell wheels as Derringtons. I can
> usually tell a Moto-Lita by the workmanship if not the quality of the
> ply laminate. A rivet poorly aligned with a spoke is an indication of
> Moto-Lita. In this case it is something else that I find unusual.
> Notice how the nine mounting holes are misaligned with the spokes.
> That was either a very poorly done job from new or it was a wheel sold
> without holes which allowed the owner to drill and maybe misalign
> intentionally... or accidentally. More can be read about Derrington
> in my blog here, although the information is not exhaustive:
> http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor
> Refinishing or restoring these type rims is difficult due to the time
> and exposure effects and also the limitations of the wood grain in
> spots as explained in my blog. It is always a judgment call whether to
> restore or replace the rim. I have recently completed one rare Victor
> Derrington for a Healey and am working on another for a Jag XK. The
> Healey rim was worth saving because it was in relatively good shape,
> but the Jag had to be replaced mostly due to bad work performed
> earlier. The old wood, mahogany and obeche, especially the obeche
> colors gets muddled over time and no longer displays the original
> contrasting colors, but can still look nice as an obviously old and
> original rim.
> I do not use chemicals for stripping rims, I use a very sharp razor as
> a scraping tool, being careful to scrape in the angle of the grain not
> to damage â?? you can feel it, but laminates will have grain going in
> multiple directions, so care is needed. Only after fully removing the
> finish will I do any amount of sanding, and never so much as to remove
> much wood. I do most of the sanding by spinning the wheel on a lathe,
> but obviously not the rear where the grips appear. In this case with
> the Healey version, we went through more heroic efforts to save the
> wood. It was scrubbed with a toothbrush using ammonia and then bleach
> two times. Still, the colors were muddled, but better. After
> neutralizing the cleaners and sanding again just to smooth any raised
> grain, it was given the new finish. I have read that the original
> finishing was french polish, or at least at some point in time
> (Derrington, not necessarily Moto-Lita). While you can select
> whatever method you are comfortable or desire, I use a UV cure clear
> finish. Over the years Iâ??ve used a number of finishes, but for the
> amount of work I do now I have moved to this UV system which I find to
> be excellent in every way. I would also recommend Waterlox at least
> for a sealer if not topcoat also. It is a wipe on tung and resin mix.
> I have also used General Finishes water based (only after the Waterlox
> seal) Enduro-Var gloss. It can only be applied after the sealer has
> dried fully. It typically took five coats with sanding in between. It
> dries quickly and feels great when done. I always polished the rim on
> the lathe after finishing to smooth out perfectly and give the desired
> amount of shine/sheen.
> This is the Victor Derrinton after all was done (UV cure), but prior
> to the metal being cleaned and final polishing:
> http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley
> Happy New Year
> Mike Lempert
> Lempert Wheels
> â??56 BN2
> â??59 BN7
> â??60 Bugeye
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11299 - datum van uitgifte:
> 01/01/16
>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Mike,<br>
<br>
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and work method. Very
informative.<br>
<br>
I have also noticed that Moto-Lita is not to precise in fitting
the rivets, especially at the rear where they (and the holes in
the wood) can be very badly finished. <br>
<br>
I do not think that steering wheels were ever finished by proper
French polishing (shellac/ethanol mixture rubbed on with a pad,
using a few drops of raw linseed oil to prevent sticking of the
pad). Although it will give a superior finish (very high gloss),
it is a very laborious process and it would not be resistant
against moisture from e.g. sweaty hands.<br>
May be a similar process was used but I suspect the manufacturers
claimed a lacquered steering wheel to be French polished as the
finish looked a bit like it.<br>
<br>
I am surprised you use ammonia and bleach on the wood. I have
always avoided that in fear of damaging the glue in the laminate.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 1-1-2016 om 21:28 schreef <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:mlempert@bellsouth.net";>mlempert@bellsouth.net</a>:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:8A1EAFAD63234766957932E4DE46D28B@woodrimHP"
type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div>While I was once a regular reader and participant in this
email list, I rarely have the time anymore to read the
digests I receive. I do sometime scan through the subject
before filing the digest email. I just happened to do that
and noticed the discussion about steering wheel refinishing.
</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>There is much I can write and when I do I typically
transgress into all kinds of related trivia, but I will try
to avoid that. But first some comments about the original
posterâ??s wheel. It is indeed a Derrington type, but it is
very difficult to know whether it came from Derrington or
from another of a few makers. Moto-Lita was certainly one of
the makers and they did sell wheels as Derringtons. I can
usually tell a Moto-Lita by the workmanship if not the
quality of the ply laminate. A rivet poorly aligned with a
spoke is an indication of Moto-Lita. In this case it is
something else that I find unusual. Notice how the nine
mounting holes are misaligned with the spokes. That was
either a very poorly done job from new or it was a wheel
sold without holes which allowed the owner to drill and
maybe misalign intentionally... or accidentally. More can
be read about Derrington in my blog here, although the
information is not exhaustive: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
title="http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor";
href="http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor";>http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor</a>Â
</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>Refinishing or restoring these type rims is difficult due
to the time and exposure effects and also the limitations of
the wood grain in spots as explained in my blog. It is
always a judgment call whether to restore or replace the
rim. I have recently completed one rare Victor Derrington
for a Healey and am working on another for a Jag XK. The
Healey rim was worth saving because it was in relatively
good shape, but the Jag had to be replaced mostly due to bad
work performed earlier. The old wood, mahogany and obeche,
especially the obeche colors gets muddled over time and no
longer displays the original contrasting colors, but can
still look nice as an obviously old and original rim.</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>I do not use chemicals for stripping rims, I use a very
sharp razor as a scraping tool, being careful to scrape in
the angle of the grain not to damage â?? you can feel it, but
laminates will have grain going in multiple directions, so
care is needed. Only after fully removing the finish will I
do any amount of sanding, and never so much as to remove
much wood. I do most of the sanding by spinning the wheel on
a lathe, but obviously not the rear where the grips appear.
In this case with the Healey version, we went through more
heroic efforts to save the wood. It was scrubbed with a
toothbrush using ammonia and then bleach two times. Still,
the colors were muddled, but better. After neutralizing the
cleaners and sanding again just to smooth any raised grain,
it was given the new finish. I have read that the original
finishing was french polish, or at least at some point in
time (Derrington, not necessarily Moto-Lita). While you can
select whatever method you are comfortable or desire, I use
a UV cure clear finish. Over the years Iâ??ve used a number of
finishes, but for the amount of work I do now I have moved
to this UV system which I find to be excellent in every way.
I would also recommend Waterlox at least for a sealer if not
topcoat also. It is a wipe on tung and resin mix. I have
also used General Finishes water based (only after the
Waterlox seal) Enduro-Var gloss. It can only be applied
after the sealer has dried fully. It typically took five
coats with sanding in between. It dries quickly and feels
great when done. I always polished the rim on the lathe
after finishing to smooth out perfectly and give the desired
amount of shine/sheen. </div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>This is the Victor Derrinton after all was done (UV
cure), but prior to the metal being cleaned and final
polishing:Â <a moz-do-not-send="true"
title="http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley";
href="http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley";>http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/smalley</a></div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>Happy New Year</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>Mike Lempert</div>
<div>Lempert Wheels</div>
<div>â??56 BN2</div>
<div>â??59 BN7</div>
<div>â??60 Bugeye</div>
<div>Â </div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
<br>
<pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/archive";>http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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</pre>
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<p class="">Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
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Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11299 - datum van
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