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Re: [Healeys] New Wiring Harness

To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Wiring Harness
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 17:25:54 +0000 (UTC)
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
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Thread-topic: New Wiring Harness
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re: "... how do you get the correct instruction with the harness? " 

I've rewired two Healeys; a BJ8 in situ and a BN2 on a bare chassis. For the 
BJ8, I went lead-by-lead; i.e. replace the old with the new as you go along 
(don't yank the old one then try to replace, cut out the old in sections). For 
the BN2 I just followed the schematic in the shop manual. If you don't have the 
Bentley shop manual for your BN6, now's the time to get it; the schematic is 
accurate though I've seen inaccurate harnesses (one wire with wrong 
color/tracer). The only P-clips you can't R&R are in the transmission tunnel; I 
just tie-wrapped the new harness to the old P-clip until I pulled the engine. 

If you're rewiring existing, start by cutting the old harness where it enters 
the cockpit. Feed the new harness--it should have a large grommet 
installed--through the firewall. You can connect the gauges and switches at 
this point, or leave them for when you feel like working on your back in a yoga 
position. Work from the firewall out to the corners, either by cutting and 
replacing as you go, or following the schematic. Same for working with a bare 
chassis though, of course, you won't have the old harness for guidance (note 
that if the old harness has been replaced or 'repaired' before it might not be 
exactly correct). 

It's a good idea to replace the connectors, as they can corrode and spawn 
electrical gremlins. Fill the connectors with dielectric grease before you 
insert the new leads to help prevent corrosion. 

Bob 


----- Original Message -----



Sounds good. What if you started with a bare shell of a car? 


On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 5:25 PM, Charlie <mgcharlie@comcast.net> wrote: 




Gerry, 

When you remove the old harness, mark each wire as to what it connects to. Lay 
it out on the floor along with the new one and mark the new one, then connect 
each wire to what it is marked to connect to. If some don't match up, use the 
Lucas color coding chart to figure out where they go. It should work out that 
where they connect will be physically somewhere close to where the wire is, and 
you should have a corresponding wire on the old harness in the same spot, but 
maybe a different color. 

Charlie 




I am working on a BN6. One of the projects will to replace the wire harness. I 
am presently doing the same with a MGTC. One of the reference books has a chart 
with one set of color code and the the one that came with the new harness has 
another. Neither one is the correct chart. I want to avoid this with the AH, 
has anyone had this problem and if so how do you get the correct instruction 
with the harness? 
Thanks 
Gerry 







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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div>re: "... <span>how do you get the correct instruction with the har=
ness?</span>"</div><div><br></div><div>I've rewired two Healeys; a BJ8 in s=
itu and a BN2 on a bare chassis.&nbsp; For the BJ8, I went lead-by-lead; i.=
e. replace the old with the new as you go along (don't yank the old one the=
n try to replace, cut out the old in sections).&nbsp; For the BN2 I just fo=
llowed the schematic in the shop manual.&nbsp; If you don't have the Bentle=
y shop manual for your BN6, now's the time to get it; the schematic is accu=
rate though I've seen inaccurate harnesses (one wire with wrong color/trace=
r).&nbsp; The only P-clips you can't R&amp;R are in the transmission tunnel=
; I just tie-wrapped the new harness to the old P-clip until I pulled the e=
ngine.</div><div><br></div><div>If you're rewiring existing, start by cutti=
ng the old harness where it enters the cockpit.&nbsp; Feed the new harness-=
-it should have a large grommet installed--through the firewall.&nbsp; You =
can connect the gauges and switches at this point, or leave them for when y=
ou feel like working on your back in a yoga position.&nbsp; Work from the f=
irewall out to the corners, either by cutting and replacing as you go, or f=
ollowing the schematic.&nbsp; Same for working with a bare chassis though, =
of course, you won't have the old harness for guidance (note that if the ol=
d harness has been replaced or 'repaired' before it might not be exactly co=
rrect).</div><div><br></div><div>It's a good idea to replace the connectors=
, as they can corrode and spawn electrical gremlins.&nbsp; Fill the connect=
ors with dielectric grease before you insert the new leads to help prevent =
corrosion.</div><div><br></div><div>Bob</div><div><br></div><div><br></div>=
<hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:nor=
mal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:1=
2pt;"><br><div><br></div><div style=3D"color:#000; background-color:#fff; f=
ont-family:times new roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:16px">Sounds g=
ood.&nbsp; What if you started with a bare shell of a car?<br><div id=3D"yu=
i_3_16_0_1_1456275346966_70662"><span></span></div> <div class=3D"qtdSepara=
teBR"><br><div><br></div></div><div style=3D"display: block;" class=3D"yaho=
o_quoted"> <div style=3D"font-family: times new roman, new york, times, ser=
if; font-size: 16px;"> <div style=3D"font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica =
Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> <div =
dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: small;" data-mce-=
style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: small;" face=3D"Arial" size=3D"2"> =
On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 5:25 PM, Charlie &lt;mgcharlie@comcast.net&gt=
; wrote:<br></span></div> <blockquote style=3D"border-left: 2px solid rgb(1=
6, 16, 255); margin-left: 5px; margin-top: 5px; padding-left: 5px;"> <br><d=
iv><br></div> <div class=3D"y_msg_container"><div id=3D"yiv7200146535"><div=
><div style=3D"font-family:Arial;font-size:12pt;color:#000000;"><div>Gerry,=
<br clear=3D"none"></div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>When you remove=
 the old harness, mark each wire as to what it connects to.&nbsp; Lay it ou=
t on the floor along with the new one and mark the new one, then connect ea=
ch wire to what it is marked to connect to.&nbsp; If some don't match up, u=
se the Lucas color coding chart to figure out where they go.&nbsp; It shoul=
d work out that where they connect will be physically somewhere close to wh=
ere the wire is, and you should have a corresponding wire on the old harnes=
s in the same spot, but maybe a different color.<br clear=3D"none"></div><d=
iv><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>Charlie<br clear=3D"none"></div><div><br c=
lear=3D"none"></div><hr id=3D"yiv7200146535zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#000;=
font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helve=
tica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"><br clear=3D"none"><div><br clear=
=3D"none"></div><span style=3D"color:black;font-family:arial;font-size:smal=
l;">

</span><div class=3D"yiv7200146535yqt5402328531" id=3D"yiv7200146535yqt1064=
7"><div style=3D"font-family:arial, helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black;">=
 <span style=3D"font-size:small;">I am working on a BN6.&nbsp; One of the <=
/span><span style=3D"font-size:small;">projects will to replace the wire ha=
rness.&nbsp; I am presently doing the same with a MGTC. &nbsp; One of the r=
eference books has a chart with one set of color code and the the one that =
came with the new harness </span><span style=3D"font-size:small;">has anoth=
er. Neither one is the correct chart.&nbsp; I want to avoid this with the A=
H, has anyone had this problem and if so how do you get the correct instruc=
tion with the harness?<br clear=3D"none">
Thanks<br clear=3D"none">
Gerry<br clear=3D"none">
</span><span style=3D"font-size:small;"></span><span style=3D"font-size:sma=
ll;"></span><br></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></blockquote></di=
v></div></div></div><div><br></div></div><div><br></div></div></body></html=
>
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