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[Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box

Subject: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box
From: kerrygl at shaw.ca (kerry)
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2017 20:40:47 -0800
References: <001401d28c57$7d4c6e10$77e54a30$@homecall.co.uk> <CABXhz8-wc-TjJCM5gkVUK6OX18SY4k2CK6EqGWgk5Lqdv+U=+A@mail.gmail.com> <132a01d28d1f$5f53b670$1dfb2350$@roadrunner.com> <CABXhz89Y3rsXL-Xn4B6Cjhy89zGUD83jJonFomzxmxge1-Exbg@mail.gmail.com>, <901f6c9e-2772-af0f-e98d-a5060c93314d@comcast.net> <BLUPR19MB0212B8B1FACBFE84033CCAE7D1500@BLUPR19MB0212.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Thanks for the idea of going through the back to replace the flasherbox..I
had thought about backing the two top scews out from the wheel well access
just couldn't figure out how to get them back in after installing new box
.maybe staring at it for a couple more months will help..darn air hose !

 

Right now I only make left turnsJ

 

Kerry

BT7

Victoria BC

 

From: Jean Caron [mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com] 
Sent: February 22, 2017 3:16 PM
To: Bob Spidell; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box

 

Bob,

No these boxes are not sealed, they have three prongs, two at one end and
one at the other that hold the cover in place. As Bruce Steele, I had done
an article on these a while ago for Healey Marque, and I have done about a
dozen of these and they are still working well and the outside liiks
original.

 

Jean

 

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
<bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: February 22, 2017 4:39 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box 

 

Are these boxes sealed?  We got into ours from a BN2, and had to drill out a
couple spot welds.  

After installing a new harness, the turn indicators didn't function
properly.  'Assuming' the problem was in the relay box, we opened it up only
to find out later the harness had a couple wires mislabeled (wrong
color/trace).  This really pissed me off as otherwise I had the harness
wired 100% correct (not to mention 'violating' an original flasher box).

Bob

 

On 2/22/2017 8:04 AM, i erbs wrote:

I don't have my air hoses in place yet, so It is a straight shot to the top
nuts. My mechanic removed mine and cleaned and adjusted the internal points.
It gets rusty in there. So Simon, you might take a look inside once you get
it out and I would bet you will find rust and crud in there. Using a
multi-meter you should be able to check the contacts.




Ira Erbs 

Portland,OR

      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

          BT7 engine and disk brakes

 

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti

Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words

 

On Wed, Feb 22, 2017 at 7:21 AM, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
wrote:

Simon,  I've had mine out twice, most recently last weekend when I replaced
it while the engine is out for a rebuild (it was a lot easier to sit in the
engine bay than reach over!).  Using a long thin flat blade screwdriver,
loosen the terminals one at a time.  I was perhaps fortunate that my wires
are basically "trained" to lay in order so keeping them straight was not a
problem, but if in doubt label them first.  Ira's right-seeing the color
codes can be tricky unless everything is really clean!    Remove the bottom
screw last.  Removing the top 2 screws is the problem as they are blocked by
the air trunking.  If there is no way to get to them from the front, and
there probably isn't, you can drill them out through the captive nuts in the
wheel well.  Yes, that ruins the nuts, but there is an easy solution to
that.  Before reinstalling the relay unit, put 2 U-type spring clip speed
nuts on the flange over the outboard holes.  Install the bottom machine
screw to finger tight to hold the unit in place, then use 2 sheet metal
screws through the drilled out nuts to secure the top.  Or 1 screw-I'm
pretty sure 3 screws in that is overkill.  You may have to move the unit
slightly side to side to line up the holes, but it will work fine and is
much easier than trying to go in from the front.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 9:19 AM
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
Cc: Pierre Henri Claret <yosmovies at hotmail.fr>; Healey List
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box

 

try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in between the
extensions

I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read.




Ira Erbs

Portland,OR

      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

          BT7 engine and disk brakes

 

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti

Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words

 

On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Simon Lachlan
<simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote:

My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough by Healey
standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems that my nephew may have
to remove his from his LHD '64 BJ8. So the brake fluid reservoir is in the
way, plus its pipework and the steering column...or is that a bit lower?

Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major kerfuffle or what does
one have to do? Just grow tiny treble jointed wrists and elbows? The usual
in fact..

Thanks,

Simon


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