Tom, the most accurate and quickest way is to use a dial indicator to
determine end float.
Put in enough shims and torque the nut so that you have movement when you push
the wheel inboard and pull it outboard (excessive end float). Use the dial
indicator to measure how much movement there is. There should be zero end
float when the adjustment is correct, so subtract the total thickness of shims
as measured by the indicator (if the indicator says there is 0.015" end float,
then remove a total of 0.015" from the stack). When the outer bearing is
installed and the nut torqued to 40 - 70 lb-ft there should now be no
detectible end float and no drag on the rotation of the wheel. It's less messy
to do this before lubricating the outer bearing, but a light coating of grease
to stick them together makes it easier to handle the shims.
Now, if you don't have a dial indicator it's trial and error to get the shim
stack the right thickness but the end result is no end float with no binding on
the wheel rotation when the nut is properly torqued. If you can't get the nut
castellation to line up with the hole in the axle for the cotter pin while
staying within the 40 - 70 lb-ft spec, then put a 0.003" shim under the nut and
try again.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2018 6:08 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Shims in front hub
What's the procedure for determining how (size) shims to put in against the
spacer? Are they for end float? If so, what is the procedure for measuring
end float?
tIA
tom
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