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About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plate
which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verified
that there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two posts
with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that
the problem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially
encountered the problem a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when
turning the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the
problem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just
to see how it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came
on. What's more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full
blast to low just as it always had.
I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater power
lead connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this is a
typical Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am sure that
should I simply close the heater up the switch will probably act up at some
point in the future. I'm going to investigate whether I can source a
replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll also take the opportunity to
repaint the front plate in black crackle and I am going to close off the
top opening that supplies heated air to the two vents in back of the
windshield, which seems like a waste of hot air.
Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of you
who have experienced similar situations a laugh.
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><font=
color=3D"#3333FF" style=3D"font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva=
,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style=
=3D"font-family:Arial">About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of t=
he heater face-plate which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switc=
h. I first verified that there was power to the switch and then jumped acro=
ss the two posts with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, t=
elling me that the problem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when=
I initially encountered the problem a few days ago as the "detent-lik=
e feel" when turning the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had id=
entified the problem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned the contr=
ol knob just to see how it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immed=
iately came on. What's more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, goi=
ng from full blast to low just as it always had.=C2=A0</span></font><br sty=
le=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><font color=3D"=
#3333FF" style=3D"font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-seri=
f;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style=3D"font-fam=
ily:Arial"><br></span></font><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:V=
erdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-col=
or:rgb(250,250,250)"><font color=3D"#3333FF" style=3D"font-family:Verdana,A=
rial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(2=
50,250,250)"><span style=3D"font-family:Arial">I am 100% certain that I had=
the ignition switch on and the heater power lead connected with an intact =
fuse and I can only say that this is a typical Healey deal, and now that th=
e car has my attention I am sure that should I simply close the heater up t=
he switch will probably act up at some point in the future. I'm going t=
o investigate whether I can source a replacement switch, either Lucas or no=
t. I'll also take the opportunity to repaint the front plate in black c=
rackle and I am going to close off the top opening that supplies heated air=
to the two vents in back of the windshield, which seems like a waste of ho=
t air.<br><br>Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives=
some of you who have experienced similar situations a laugh.</span></font>=
<br></div></div>
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