Thanks for all the replies guys!
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 4, 2018, at 11:00 AM, healeys-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. MORE: Lucas electronic voltage regulator (Alex)
> 2. How to keep the door open (Albert Seminatore)
> 3. Re: How to keep the door open (Michael Oritt)
> 4. Re: How to keep the door open (goldengt)
> 5. Re: How to keep the door open (John Spaur)
> 6. Re: How to keep the door open (Michael Salter)
> 7. Refinishing dashboard wood (Bruce Peters)
> 8. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (Kees Oudesluijs)
> 9. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (insidedim@aol.com)
> 10. Re: How to keep the door open (Warren)
> 11. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (Tom)
> 12. Re: Stuff!! (dwflagg@juno.com)
> 13. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (Stephen Hutchings)
> 14. Re: Healey 100-4 timing (Bob Spidell)
> 15. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (glemon@neb.rr.com)
> 16. Re: How to keep the door open (Albert Seminatore)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 16:23:44 -0400
> From: Alex <alexmm@roadrunner.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] MORE: Lucas electronic voltage regulator
> Message-ID: <7e4651a6-34d7-ff4a-66ea-f76d3ef3834a@roadrunner.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> While a solid-state regulator has no moving parts, and may provide
> tighter regulation than a classic old-fashioned mechanical regulator,
> keep in mind that the components on the solid-state circuit board are
> subject to shock, vibration, and temperature extremes.
>
> The substrate itself (the printed circuit board) is also subject to
> these factors. Under the bonnet is a hostile environment for electronics.
>
> From the photos, it's clear the integrated circuits are small-outline
> surface-mount devices. The pins on these ICs are very small and on a
> fine pitch (close together).?? Also, ICs are rated in three categories:
> 0-70 degrees C, -25 to +85 degrees C., and -55 degrees C to +125 degrees C.
>
> These three categories are dubbed "commercial," industrial," and
> "military," respectively. Which temperature-range devices are used on
> these boards?
>
> Also, notice the sub-board, which looks like a plug-in. Separable
> interconnects are also subject to failure due to oxidation and vibration.
>
> Just some thoughts.
>
> == Alex in Maine, 1960 BT7, "The Blue Mainie"
>
>
>> On 11/3/2018 11:57 AM, Bruce Steele wrote:
>>
>> Thanks, Chris.? I appreciate all the input. ?I received the diagnosis
>> on my generator Friday, and I?m going to proceed with having it
>> rebuilt.? I?m also going to contact Dean Sprague of Vintage
>> Mecha-Tronics (www.vintagemechatronics.com
>> <http://www.vintagemechatronics.com>) this week regarding their
>> electronic regulator.? The quality of the Lucas electronic unit is
>> suspect based on the comments received, which are echoed in the
>> information on Mecha-Tronics website.
>>
>> Bruce Steele
>>
>> Brea, CA
>>
>> 1960 BN7
>>
>> *From:*Chris Masucci [mailto:cmmasucci@gmail.com]
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 31, 2018 4:19 AM
>> *To:* healey.nut@gmail.com
>> *Cc:* healeybruce@roadrunner.com; Healey List <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Lucas electronic voltage regulator
>>
>> In my opinion, whether you need more current supply or not isn't the
>> primary reason to go with an alternator or an electronic voltage
>> regulator.? Either will provide a more stable voltage to the system,
>> which is good for anything electrical including points and coils,
>> overdrive solenoids, fuel pumps and especially electronic ignitions
>> like pertronix etc..? If you have an electronic tach like on the later
>> cars, it will be more stable too and happier with a cleaner power
>> source. I would use the electronic regulator if you decide to rebuild
>> the generator.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 31, 2018 at 6:08 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com
>>
>> I would just rebuild the genny. are you planning on running a 300
>> amp stereo system in your car or something?
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 31, 2018 at 9:13 AM Bruce Steele
>> wrote:
>>
>> Somewhat related to my prior post.? Should I decide to rebuild
>> the generator, anyone have experience with the electronic
>> voltage regulator?
>>
>>
>> https://www.bpnorthwest.com/voltage-regulator-digital-lucas-screw-in-terminal.html
>>
>> Bruce Steele
>>
>> Brea, CA
>>
>> 1960 BN7
>>
>> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 30, 2018 11:05 AM
>> *To:* Bruce Steele <healeybruce@roadrunner.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Accuspark Dynamator
>>
>> Cheaper to get your generator rebuilt.? Re-install, then drive
>> it.? Not a big deal.
>>
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 30, 2018 7:36 AM, Bruce Steele
>> <healeybruce@roadrunner.com
>>
>> Hi, all. My generator failed and I'm considering my options.
>> Anyone have any input on the AccuSpark Dynamator (which is an
>> alternator in a dynamo case)? Peter Rosesinstalled one
>> recently, and suggested I consider it. The north American
>> distributor is Brit Bits in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. I'd
>> prefer retaining the traditional look of the generator over an
>> alternator. Of course, rebuilding the generator is an option,
>> but my car is not concours so that is not really a
>> consideration. Certainly the higher output of the alternator
>> (the Dynamator is 45 amps) is a significant improvement to
>> drive all those electrical components on our Healeys.
>>
>> Bruce Steele
>>
>> Brea, CA
>>
>> 1960 BN7
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 13:46:43 -0700
> From: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> Message-ID:
> <CAEEMJ+3Q0fPv4uZ6J=cZ4bD0ip4bP4jGWTBR_8eQkAtz=DrMxw@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more. The passenger
> door is ok.
> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good. There
> is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good either.
> The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY smooth -
> like glass smooth.
>
> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
> ................... Al
>
> --
> Albert Seminatore
> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
> eMail: alsemus1@gmail.com
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 18:41:29 -0400
> From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
> To: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>
> Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> Message-ID:
> <CAPTa0B647mjiSPv_rOVMJMtPuCp4_fFRLtKSYQ0fXiG_wayXcw@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Buy a replacement door check.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 6:07 PM Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more. The passenger
>> door is ok.
>> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.
>> There is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good
>> either. The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY
>> smooth - like glass smooth.
>>
>> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
>> ................... Al
>>
>> --
>> Albert Seminatore
>> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
>> eMail: alsemus1@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
>>
>>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2018 16:21:10 -0700
> From: goldengt <goldengt@cal.net>
> To: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>, Healey List
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> Message-ID: <20181103232146.B93971A25CF@mail.cal.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> The threads are probably stripped on the stud or nut or both. You could weld
> in a new stud or use a smaller die to cut new thread and a smaller nut. Get
> the left hand thread ztuff from McMaster Carr on line.Ken Freese?Sent from my
> Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> -------- Original message --------From: Albert Seminatore
> <alsemus1@gmail.com> Date: 11/3/18 1:46 PM (GMT-08:00) To: Healey List
> <healeys@autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open I have
> a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more.? The passenger door is
> ok.I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.?
> There is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good
> either.? The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY
> smooth - like glass smooth.What do other folks do to recover the friction
> need to keep the door open?...................?? Al-- Albert
> SeminatoreMountain Falls, Pahrump, NVeMail:? alsemus1@gmail.com
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 16:33:47 -0700
> From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> To: "'Albert Seminatore'" <alsemus1@gmail.com>, "'Healey List'"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> Message-ID: <000001d473cd$abac4230$0304c690$@sbcglobal.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Are the screws stripped? One is a left hand screw.
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Albert
> Seminatore
> Sent: Saturday, November 3, 2018 1:47 PM
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
>
>
>
> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more. The passenger door
> is ok.
>
> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good. There
> is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good either. The
> metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY smooth - like
> glass smooth.
>
>
>
> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
>
> .................. Al
>
>
> --
>
> Albert Seminatore
>
> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 20:03:31 -0400
> From: Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com>
> To: goldengt <goldengt@cal.net>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net, Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> Message-ID:
> <CAB3i7LLRP-Ffngfq6G2SS0pBp38TTxypoh1WRnBo+oQbz9u8Kg@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Another source for left hand threads is turnbuckles but as I recall the
> left door uses a right hand thread.
>
> M
>
>> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 7:48 PM goldengt <goldengt@cal.net wrote:
>>
>> The threads are probably stripped on the stud or nut or both. You could
>> weld in a new stud or use a smaller die to cut new thread and a smaller
>> nut. Get the left hand thread ztuff from McMaster Carr on line.
>> Ken Freese
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>
>> -------- Original message --------
>> From: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>
>> Date: 11/3/18 1:46 PM (GMT-08:00)
>> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
>>
>> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more. The passenger
>> door is ok.
>> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.
>> There is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good
>> either. The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY
>> smooth - like glass smooth.
>>
>> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
>> ................... Al
>>
>> --
>> Albert Seminatore
>> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
>> eMail: alsemus1@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>>
>>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 20:12:53 -0700
> From: Bruce Peters <rv9aplane@gmail.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
> Message-ID: <C7D368B4-01C3-47A8-ACA2-36FE2FCAD896@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Hi all,
> My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what type
> of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded it all
> off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have to do
> some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
>
> Bruce
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 06:40:59 +0100
> From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
> Message-ID: <93e20db1-d53e-ad15-fdc4-ac5428b4bea3@chello.nl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> I have done this on a TR6. The lacquer was probably epoxy as it did not
> respond to solvents, so I had to sand away the coat. Be very careful as
> the wood surface may be a very thin veneer easily damaged by sanding.
> use 400 grade. I used many coats of boat lacquer to finish the dash to
> build up before sanding the top coat smooth, first with 600, followed by
> 2000 and a cutting compound to achieve a highly glossy finish.
>
> Not difficult but very tedious.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 4-11-2018 om 04:12 schreef Bruce Peters:
>> Hi all,
>> My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what type
>> of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded it
>> all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have to
>> do some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
>>
>> Bruce
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 03:54:35 -0500
> From: insidedim@aol.com
> To: rv9aplane@gmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
> Message-ID: <166ddee534b-1ec0-3b40@webjas-vae144.srv.aolmail.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> In the early 90's I acquired a BJ8 that had been abandoned for 8 yrs. that
> had been sitting outside with a hole in the convertible top. Someone had
> stolen the glove box side, presumably for the lock, so that piece wasn't
> there. The gauge side was there but badly cracked like yours so I removed
> the finish back to the plywood. I purchased some marine plywood and made a
> new glove box side and bought some bookmatched burl walnut veneers to cover
> both pieces. I finished the new veneers with maybe a dozen or more coats of
> marine varnish, sanded between coats and finished with carnauba wax. The
> result was spectacular. Good luck.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Peters <rv9aplane@gmail.com>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Nov 4, 2018 12:23 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
>
> Hi all,My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what
> type of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded
> it all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have
> to do some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the
> advice.BruceSent from my
> iPad_______________________________________________Support Team.Net
> http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive:
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> http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys@autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage:
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 05:28:18 -0500
> From: Warren <flyhihealey@gmail.com>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> Message-ID: <5bdec98a.1c69fb81.62a7d.2a5d@mx.google.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Just went through this. For the ?nth time over my 51 year ownership. Michael
> Salter?s idea of the turnbuckle threads and taller nuts to grab more threads
> worked very well. New wood discs. It too finally stripped and I
> chased the threads and tried a new nut but the threads would not hold. Would
> not bite low enough on good threads.
> Time to just buy a new check system($70 +\-). I already have 2 sets of
> these(also non workable) things from donor doors. I must say the passenger
> door works just fine. Always the driver door, for obvious reason, is
> problematic. One more try before I pulled out the credit card. Found a thin
> cork washer, half the thickness of the wood one and similar diameter, and it
> allowed the new nut to just grab those few good threads at the bottom. It
> worked! At least for now?
>
> WD 67BJ8
>
>
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>
> From: Michael Oritt
> Sent: Saturday, November 3, 2018 7:23 PM
> To: Albert Seminatore
> Cc: Austin Healey
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
>
> Buy a replacement door check.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt?
>
> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 6:07 PM Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com wrote:
> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more.? The passenger door
> is ok.
> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.? There
> is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good either.? The
> metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY smooth - like
> glass smooth.
>
> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
> ...................?? Al
>
> --
> Albert Seminatore
> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
> eMail:? alsemus1@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 08:26:13 -0500
> From: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
> To: rv9aplane@gmail.com
> Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
> Message-ID:
> <CANQM1PLQS4+DC0dxzK2nNtOt2fKBWC5oYswjkATJ7QZcBymbsA@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Bruce,
>
> I used a single-edged razor blade to carefully slip under a cracked edge
> and lift the old clear coat off. YMMV. After I removed the old clear coat,
> I lightly sanded it with a very fine grit. Other folks on this list have
> said the veneer is very thin, so don't overdo sanding.
>
> After sanding I wiped a mix of mahogany/walnut Minwax oil-based stain on
> the veneer. I added very little color to it. If you're going for a
> concours-quality car, staining may or may not be the best thing to do.
>
> I used Envirotex Lite for the new finish. Several folks on this list
> recommend it, and it worked very well. It's a heavy epoxy that self levels:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CEMU3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
> It takes 2 or 3 days to fully cure, so finding a dust-free environment is
> important. After it cures, it's dried to a high gloss and smooth finish.
> You won't need to sand it.
>
> This is the best instructions I found for mixing it:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70bOH2j2vvs Their directions seem a
> little fastidious, but if you get an incomplete mix, the results will be a
> mess. There are lots of videos about applying the epoxy, too.
>
> Good luck!
>
> - Tom
>
>> On Sun, Nov 4, 2018 at 12:06 AM Bruce Peters <rv9aplane@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi all,
>> My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what
>> type of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded
>> it all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have
>> to do some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
>>
>> Bruce
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 14:29:36 GMT
> From: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stuff!!
> Message-ID: <20181104.092936.19318.0@webmail01.dca.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>
> I know I mentioned this before, but the time is near. Within the next few
> weeks I will lay out in my garage all the Healey parts, etc. that I have
> after 50+ years. I will take pictures and post to the list. My goal is to
> have someone arrive with a trailer and make an offer I can't refuse. Most, to
> all, will be for the 100-4. A little bit of everything from a beautiful
> grille, auxiliary instruments, NOS lights, lenses, and boxes of parts. The
> one item I would like to sell separately, is a 100-4 BN2 instrument panel,
> restored by Rich Chrysler. It is painted Healey Blue and ready to install. I
> will send pictures on request. The time is nearing for our move to St. Louis
> to be near our grandson. I appreciate your help, and so does my wife and
> grandson!! Thanks. Cheers, Doug
> ____________________________________________________________
> See If You Can Guess Who This Former Child Star Is
> funnyjk.com
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5bdf027c673dd2776e57st01duc
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 10:15:45 -0500
> From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
> To: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
> Message-ID: <EF7318DF-E226-4C9D-9062-B5A6D54D3668@rogers.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I found the only way to get the old stuff off was to get under it with a
> pallet knife- it seemed to be impervious to any removers. I didn?t have to
> use any stain- the burled veneer has quite a lot of colour of its own once
> the new varnish goes on.
> Steve Byers can tell you about a product he used called, something like
> ?Envirotek?.
> I used many coats of spar varnish and sanded between coats.
>
> Stephen, BJ8
>
>> On Nov 4, 2018, at 1:40 AM, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>>
>> I have done this on a TR6. The lacquer was probably epoxy as it did not
>> respond to solvents, so I had to sand away the coat. Be very careful as the
>> wood surface may be a very thin veneer easily damaged by sanding. use 400
>> grade. I used many coats of boat lacquer to finish the dash to build up
>> before sanding the top coat smooth, first with 600, followed by 2000 and a
>> cutting compound to achieve a highly glossy finish.
>>
>> Not difficult but very tedious.
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>> Op 4-11-2018 om 04:12 schreef Bruce Peters:
>>> Hi all,
>>> My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what type
>>> of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded it
>>> all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have to
>>> do some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
>>>
>>> Bruce
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
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>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 07:37:49 -0800
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-4 timing
> Message-ID: <a78675cc-1a9b-5b9b-ea26-a513bbdebb69@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> re: "I'm wondering if I have been over thinking this process and the
> stated advance is meant to be "at idle" with the vacuum connected..."
>
> I've always disconnected the vacuum advance, at least for my BJ8 and (I
> think) for my BN2.? I believe I read this in the shop manual, but don't
> have it handy to check.? I've checked with and without the VA connected,
> and didn't detect much, if any difference.? If you've set up HD8s 'per
> the book,' you would be running on the slow run (bypass) circuit, and
> the closed throttle would (I think, not sure) cover the VA port.
>
> I'm not sure the vacuum vanishes at wide-open throttle* (WOT). There are
> two types of vacuum: manifold and port; the type on SU carbs is, I
> believe, the port type.? The depression (vacuum) is created, at least in
> part, by venturi effect.? Hence, I don't think it goes away entirely,
> even at WOT, but I'm not sure.
>
> If you google 'manifold vs ported vacuum advance' you'll get a ton of
> links; here's just one:
>
> http://chevellestuff.net/tech/articles/vacuum/port_or_manifold.htm
>
> So, the $64,000 question is whether the port in an SU carb is behind,
> right on, or in front of a closed throttle plate (this article says the
> purpose of port vacuum is to not advance at all at idle)?? First correct
> answer wins the internet for today.
>
> * I've always felt the term 'full throttle' to be a little, er,
> confusing.? Since the purpose of the throttle, by definition of
> 'throttle,' is to restrain/limit airflow, wouldn't 'full throttle' be a
> fully closed throttle?? The term may be evolved from 'fully open
> throttle,' but got shortened (similar, perhaps, to how the aviation term
> 'on the backside of the power curve' probably gave us 'behind the curve.').
>
> Bob
>
>> On 11/2/2018 7:05 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>> Thanks for your input on ignition timing Michael.
>> I have always found the factory specs to be a little confusing.
>> They state 6 degrees BTDC as the timing (which I presume to be
>> "static") and then state that the distributor produces 16 - 18 degrees
>> at 2000 RPM (distributor speed) which I figure to be 32 -36 degrees at
>> 4000 engine RPM.
>> I interpret that to produce 6 + 34 (2 x 17) degrees BTDC at 4000
>> engine RPM for a total of 40 degrees which sounds like an awful lot.
>> My engine does not sound at all happy with 40 degrees even with 110
>> octane!!
>> I'm wondering if I have been over thinking this process and the stated
>> advance is meant to be "at idle" with the vacuum connected (not normal
>> practice as far as I was taught) which would add 6 degrees of vacuum
>> advance which would vanish at full throttle producing a net of 34
>> degrees over 4000 at full throttle.
>> I have been setting the timing to 32 degrees BTDC with the vacuum
>> disconnected at 4000 RPM and the engine runs fey well and very cool,
>> in fact too cool without a 180 degree thermostat.
>> I am running 8.3:1 compressions with an M cam.
>>
>> M
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 9:16 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com
>>
>> Wayne--
>>
>> Exactly right--it is total advance that matters and I arrived at
>> that number by gradually increasing advance and seeing the effect
>> upon water temperature at speed and under full load.? Anything
>> more and the car would begin to overheat. A bit too much less
>> advance and performance fell off.
>>
>> BTW I am running a DW "fast street" cam and tubular header and a
>> Mallory non-vacuum advance distributor fired with their Unilite
>> module.? I too have a Smitty's five-speed and the Toyota box, 180
>> XAS's and 3.54 diff set give me about 72-73 mph at 3K rpm's indicated
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 6:03 PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2@gmail.com
>>
>> Thanks to Michael and others I am going to stick with 34 - 35
>> degrees total advance for now. What, I think this means, is
>> that the advance at idle is secondary and not as important as
>> total advance. Cruising with the the Toyota five speed or the
>> original overdrive on the highway is right in the 3K RPM range
>> so I think this the perfect RPM to limit total advance. I
>> might make a run to my local airport and buy some 100LL fuel.
>> I have worked in aviation since 1967 so I have a few friends?
>>
>>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 15
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 10:48:24 -0500
> From: <glemon@neb.rr.com>
> To: rv9aplane@gmail.com, Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
> Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
> Message-ID: <20181104154824.FDJID.44346.root@cdptpa-web04>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> My Dash was pretty bad when I got it, the clear coat peeled off easily, much
> with a fingernail, then I think I used some mild heat to help with the rest.
>
> I cleaned it with a wood soap, Homer Formby's, then a very light sand, then I
> simply polyurethaned it with Minwax. It turned out much darker than a stock
> TR250 dash, but very beautiful, and it has held up well over time (9 years).
>
> Greg Lemon
> TR250
>
>
> ---- Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Bruce,
>>
>> I used a single-edged razor blade to carefully slip under a cracked edge
>> and lift the old clear coat off. YMMV. After I removed the old clear coat,
>> I lightly sanded it with a very fine grit. Other folks on this list have
>> said the veneer is very thin, so don't overdo sanding.
>>
>> After sanding I wiped a mix of mahogany/walnut Minwax oil-based stain on
>> the veneer. I added very little color to it. If you're going for a
>> concours-quality car, staining may or may not be the best thing to do.
>>
>> I used Envirotex Lite for the new finish. Several folks on this list
>> recommend it, and it worked very well. It's a heavy epoxy that self levels:
>> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CEMU3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>>
>> It takes 2 or 3 days to fully cure, so finding a dust-free environment is
>> important. After it cures, it's dried to a high gloss and smooth finish.
>> You won't need to sand it.
>>
>> This is the best instructions I found for mixing it:
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70bOH2j2vvs Their directions seem a
>> little fastidious, but if you get an incomplete mix, the results will be a
>> mess. There are lots of videos about applying the epoxy, too.
>>
>> Good luck!
>>
>> - Tom
>>
>>> On Sun, Nov 4, 2018 at 12:06 AM Bruce Peters <rv9aplane@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi all,
>>> My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what
>>> type of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded
>>> it all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have
>>> to do some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
>>>
>>> Bruce
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
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>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
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>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com
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>>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 16
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 09:55:09 -0800
> From: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>
> To: michaelsalter@gmail.com
> Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> Message-ID:
> <CAEEMJ+3zV5oXyYPe6ecLhVRBHjwSMKxrs0Y+ygJVxvj8K=zOHw@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> The threads are great no problem.
> One person mentioned using a fille to rough up the surfaces. This did
> help. I used the roughest stone iin my Dremel kit. Now it doesn't break
> my shinbone it just cuts the skin.
> It's a shame Moss doesn't provide the parts for this. But then I guess
> most people don't have the problem or they ignore the problem. For me it
> is a big problem since I drive the car most every day..................
> Al
>
> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018 at 5:03 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Another source for left hand threads is turnbuckles but as I recall the
>> left door uses a right hand thread.
>>
>> M
>>
>>> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 7:48 PM goldengt <goldengt@cal.net wrote:
>>>
>>> The threads are probably stripped on the stud or nut or both. You could
>>> weld in a new stud or use a smaller die to cut new thread and a smaller
>>> nut. Get the left hand thread ztuff from McMaster Carr on line.
>>> Ken Freese
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>>
>>> -------- Original message --------
>>> From: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1@gmail.com>
>>> Date: 11/3/18 1:46 PM (GMT-08:00)
>>> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
>>>
>>> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more. The passenger
>>> door is ok.
>>> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.
>>> There is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good
>>> either. The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY
>>> smooth - like glass smooth.
>>>
>>> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
>>> ................... Al
>>>
>>> --
>>> Albert Seminatore
>>> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
>>> eMail: alsemus1@gmail.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>>
>
> --
> Albert Seminatore
> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
> eMail: alsemus1@gmail.com
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> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 336
> ****************************************
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