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I had to do this recently. If it's stuck on with an adhesive
sealant--Right Stuff, etc.--you are screwed. I ended up sawing through
the hardened sealant with a large, serrated knife (the kind you carve a
turkey with). I hurt my elbow, perhaps permanently, but had no choice
as the pan was cracked and part of the blade broke off in the pan. I
used a gasket and a sealant when I reinstalled the pan; theoretically if
I need to remove it again I can saw through the gasket. I might buy an
electric carving knife just to do this, but I'm not sure you could get
the blade started.
3M Adhesive Remover softened the lingering sealant (you know it's
good--the 3M stuff--because it's banned in California). Then, it's lots
of scraping.
Bob
ps. When I was looking for a 'magic answer' I found videos and photos
of people lifting small block Chevy engines by the carburettor
studs--with the bolts removed--on the manifold, which had been affixed
with Right Stuff sealant.
On 12/6/2018 8:39 AM, simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>
> I?m trying to get the sump (oil pan?) off my MkII 3000.
>
> I?ve given up for now but will check again that I?ve taken off all the
> bolts.
>
> It absolutely won?t shift and I?m finding it very hard to get an
> implement in with which to prise it open.
>
> I guess that it?s sealed with and cemented to the block with some
> gloop that just won?t shift.
>
> Is there a clever way to do this?
>
> What?s the magic answer?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
>
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<p>I had to do this recently. If it's stuck on with an adhesive
sealant--Right Stuff, etc.--you are screwed. I ended up sawing
through the hardened sealant with a large, serrated knife (the
kind you carve a turkey with). I hurt my elbow, perhaps
permanently, but had no choice as the pan was cracked and part of
the blade broke off in the pan. I used a gasket and a sealant
when I reinstalled the pan; theoretically if I need to remove it
again I can saw through the gasket. I might buy an electric
carving knife just to do this, but I'm not sure you could get the
blade started.</p>
<p>3M Adhesive Remover softened the lingering sealant (you know it's
good--the 3M stuff--because it's banned in California). Then,
it's lots of scraping.<br>
</p>
<p>Bob</p>
<p>ps. When I was looking for a 'magic answer' I found videos and
photos of people lifting small block Chevy engines by the
carburettor studs--with the bolts removed--on the manifold, which
had been affixed with Right Stuff sealant.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/6/2018 8:39 AM,
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com";>simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com</a>
wrote:<br>
</div>
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<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal">I?m trying to get the sump (oil pan?) off
my MkII 3000.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I?ve given up for now but will check again
that I?ve taken off all the bolts.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">It absolutely won?t shift and I?m finding
it very hard to get an implement in with which to prise it
open.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I guess that it?s sealed with and cemented
to the block with some gloop that just won?t shift.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Is there a clever way to do this?<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">What?s the magic answer?<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Simon<o:p></o:p></p>
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